Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: turboenterprise on May 18, 2014, 09:46:23 PM
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I'm looking to build a IP-057 and need some help. This is my first full build and I need some advise on what parts to add.
Ip-057
Question on what to get:
Headset - use XMI or Cane Creek?
Fork - not sure what size 1-1/8?
- recommendations?
XX1 - Group Set
Wheels - Light Bicycle all mountain
- Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420 - spokes
- 28h or 32h - which one?
- Hub which one to match - Are these the right ones?
- Do you need an adaptor?
Hope Pro 2 hub Front
Hope Pro 2 hub Rear
Update:
Build List
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eMRzZQpDnofHlpCb8DAsYLKIf2MUE0tY3iZiCT6dvmU/edit?usp=sharing
Build notes
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1bKzEmsKo2kkaUO0hJBv8vUSjgSh-j89bTXlNHX7fHfs/edit?usp=sharing
Update:
Been racing and riding now for a couple months. Peter at XMIplay is awesome to deal with. Quality has been great. Any issues Peter has taken care of it. Buy with confidence from XMIplay
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I'm looking to build a IP-057 and need some help. This is my first full build and I need some advise on what parts to add.
Ip-057
Question on what to get:
Headset - use XMI or Cane Creek?
Fork - not sure what size 1-1/8?
- recommendations?
XX1 - Group Set
Wheels - Light Bicycle all mountain
- Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420 - spokes
- 28h or 32h - which one?
- Hub which one to match - Are these the right ones?
- Do you need an adaptor?
Hope Pro 2 hub Front
Hope Pro 2 hub Rear
Headset - XMIplay Neco headset works fine.
Fork - 100mm, Tapered Steer Tube 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" Reba or Fox CTD
XX1 Group - Check :)
Wheels - XMIplay 30MM width or 35mm width if you want something stronger but a bit heavier, 28 hole, Sapim spokes
Hubs - DT Swiss 350 Straight Pull, 6-bolt disc, FR/RR
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^^ Agreed on all accounts except possibly the headset. I've read reviews saying it wears out quickly. That said, i don't actually own it and Carbon_Dude does so take that for what it's worth.
Also, you'll ned to decide if you are going to go with the hookless rims or the regular. Consensus seems to be to go with the hookless, which is what I plan on doing.
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I asked lightbicycle if they can sell those hubs but it appears they don't. http://www.light-bicycle.com/the-more-detail-about-hubs-MTB-hub-and-road-hub.html
Out of the hubs listed which is most equivalent. I don't know a wheel builder and I am looking for as most turn key as I can get building my own bike. If it really warrants it then wheel builder it is but I am clueless on it.
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Not sure why you are stuck on Light Bikes suppling the wheels, XMIplay can build them for you. If they do not have the hubs, buy them separately and send the hubs to them. You asked for some input so that would be my advice, my next set of wheels will have DT Swiss hubs and 30mm Carbon Hookless rims. Otherwise buy the hubs and rims yourself and have a LBS build the wheels for you.
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Thanks for the help. I appreciate the advise.
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Just to follow up.. I've done a fairly extensive amount of research over the past couple of months and my plan is to do pretty much as CD outlined.
Find a good price on some new or slightly used DT 350 hubs - have them sent directly from place of purchase to XMIplay, and have them lace said hubs to a set of 30mm hookless rims.
I've nothing against light bicycle, but when I was considering ordering from them a while back the delivery time was 30-45 days or something like that. So definitely inquire to that before ordering. Situation may have changed since then, though.
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I've got nothing against Light Bikes but if you are ordering a frame and other parts as well, might as well save some shipping/paypal fees and get everything from one Chendor :). <--- Like that SN, I got to use your word, "Chendor".
That said, Hope Pro are fine hubs, I just like the DT Swiss stuff more as they are very nicely engineered.
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I've got nothing against Light Bikes but if you are ordering a frame and other parts as well, might as well save some shipping/paypal fees and get everything from one Chendor :). <--- Like that SN, I got to use your word, "Chendor".
That said, Hope Pro are fine hubs, I just like the DT Swiss stuff more as they are very nicely engineered.
Whoa. Hold the train. That's my word. I am official Chindor inventor guy ;D
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He speaks the truth..
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,20.0.html
But I am a full supporter of the adoption of the word. I mean.. what are they technically supposed to be called? Chinese carbon vendors? Suppliers? Manufacturers? Not sure, really. Chindor works for me, or Chendor, either one lol.
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What you do think? Its been cut to 7inches. Enough?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rock-Shox-Reba-RL-29er-100mm-Solo-Air-15mm-Maxle-Tapered-Steertube-/251530262911?pt=US_Forks&hash=item3a905f397f
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Looks like a decent deal, but I'd pass on the pre-cut to seven inches thing.
In the below pic, I have the end piece of the tape measure in the groove between the headtube and forks. So while this may not be precisely accurate, it would only be off by a few centimeters at most:
(http://i.imgur.com/NLAVlcz.jpg)
So, if you know for an absolute fact that you want the stem sitting all the way down, it looks like it would work.
Depending on your time frame, I say wait. One thing I learned when I was building my bike was to never say "Okay, I'm going to buy the forks/handlebars/wheels next".. instead just watch for sales and the best deals on everything and buy what's most discounted. In other words.. if there's no rush on the fork, I think you can find a better deal. Especially considering the lack of cock pit adjustment options that pre-cut steerer will give you.
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For instance: Here is a ridiculous deal on a high end Easton stem (if you wanted 100mm): http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Easton/Easton-Haven-Stem-2012.axd?gclid=CjkKEQjw-uubBRDs6rqExIXy7ZsBEiQACq4FqeTvGSpLvJn_QqaRftPocIk4pSk3bvySnwCW6UXox1zw_wcB
Thinking about buying one myself. Sorry to go off topic a bit, but figured you might also be needing a stem.
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Looks you might would be able to get a 5mm spacer on there..
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I think the steer tubes on both my bikes are at least 7-1/2" long as well. It's difficult to buy a used fork and know that it will work, and know that it does not need to be serviced as soon as you get it.
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I actually don't think it's used - just pre-cut. Most likely came off of a new bike. Oem part like Chain Reaction sells a lot of.
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New take off parts are usually really good deals. Like you said, not new but not used either. My DT Swiss wheels were like that from eBay, $1200 set of wheels for $400, my best deal from eBay so far.
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Ok here is a build list: Thoughts / What's missing? any adaptors? cables?
P-057 in 15.5'' with BSA in UD matt for 142x12 - 400 USD/piece
Fitting NECO headset - 15 USD/ set
Fitting seat post IP-SP7 in UD matt - 40 USD/piece
Carbon saddle IP-SD1 in UD matt - 55 USD/piece
700mm Riser Carbon handlebar IP-B05 in UD matt- 38/USD
Seatpost clamp - $0
Fitting front 15mm axle and rear 12mm axles are 35 USD/pair
Extra rear derailleur hanger right part - 15 USD/piece
N-SS IP-HR930C 30mm hookless wheels - 585 USD/pair
N-SS: Novatec D771/D772 hubs for 100x15/142x12 for SRAM XX1, Sapim CX-Delta Spokes, Sapim nipples
or DTSwiss 350 ???USD/pair
Maxxis Ignitor - $47/USD a piece
RockShox Reba RLT Solo Air 100 29in Suspension Fork 15mm Maxle Remote Tapered -$4xx/USD
XX1,175m,GXP,32T - 9xx/USD
Ergon Race Grips - $0- take off other
SHIMANO DEORE XT BL-M785 BR-M785 Hydraulic Disc Brakeset 850/1400 160mm -$200/USD
SHIMANO XT 160mm Centerlock Rotor SM-RT81-S Ice Technologies Disc Brake Bike - $70/USD pair
Eggbeater 3 Pedals - $72.50 USD
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That's pretty close to my setup.
A few bits of feedback:
1) The front axle will come with the fork, so unless you want a spare or the two to match, you don't need to order one from XMIplay.
2) I purchased a flat bar to go with my riser bar as long as I was at it, no extra shipping cost and it gave me two options for the bars. However, I ended up liking the riser bars more than the flat bars anyway. Good choice on the 700mm width, I did 680mm and I'm starting to think maybe a little wider would be good.
3) You didn't list a stem.
4) You didn't say if the cranks you are getting will be Q156 or Q168. Personally, I like the extra chain stay clearance the Q168 cranks provide.
5) Peter can also have the wheels built with BiTex hubs, I did the BX401R hubs. Not sure if they are any better than the Novatec but they take a straight pull spoke which I like. A little extra cost too. Ultimately, I like the DT Swiss hubs the best though.
6) Cables and housing will come with the XX1 shifter.
7) I did a 180mm Fr, 160mm RR on the Shimano Icetech rotors, if you do a 180mm front rotor you need a spacer adapter for mounting the brake caliper.
Do you have all the tools you will need?
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Thanks Carbon_Dude
3.Is there a conservative way to know what length stem you need? I run (1-1/8 x 0-Degree x 70mm, Black) with a riser bar right now on another bike.
4. Yes the Q168 I forgot to type it
7. Whats the part number/item number for the 180mm spacer?
I have a torque wrench, carbon paste, grease, and repair stand. Going to have to do the homemade press for headset. Not sure what else. Any tips or links?
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Look like it will be a very nice build to me.
Stem length is just one of those things that you can guess at all you want but it eventually comes down to experience and trial and error. In other words, you may not get it right the first time so don't buy the world's most expensive stem. The option that SN linked to earlier in this thread truly is a steal if you need a 100mm stem.
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Like Rigid Bloke said, it can be hard to guesstimate - especially if you're building your first bike in a while in don't have a preference that you can use from your old bike., but since you do have another bike you should be able to use it to help you roughly estimate how long of a stem you might need.
When I was trying to pick the best stem length and bar combo for my frame (057) I looked up the measurements from my old 2004ish Cannondale Rush.. I remembered liking the roomy cockpit and I remembered it had a 100mm stem.. the 057 frame was slightly longer in the top tube and I was using wider bars.. So I went with a shorter 75mm stem.
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Thanks Carbon_Dude
3.Is there a conservative way to know what length stem you need? I run (1-1/8 x 0-Degree x 70mm, Black) with a riser bar right now on another bike. I compared the ETT (Effective Top Tube) on a bike I had to the IP-057 and made a decision on stem length from there.
4. Yes the Q168 I forgot to type it. Good, that's what I would recommend.
7. Whats the part number/item number for the 180mm spacer? Shimano SM-MA-F180P/P2
I have a torque wrench, carbon paste, grease, and repair stand. Going to have to do the homemade press for headset. Not sure what else. Any tips or links?
See above response in BOLD.
For the headset you don't need a press, the bearings drop into the frame. You will need to set the crown race on your fork, that is easiest with a piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot, but if also used something as simply as a block of wood to tap it down, all depends on how tight the crown race is to the fork. While you are at it, buy a $10 pipe cutter from Home Depot to cut your fork steer tube. Tip: Don't put the crown race on upside-down.
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Anyone else looking for forks. It has been slim pickens for Reba RL's for sale. There is a lot more Fox' CTD for sale. Reba's are bit harder to find in 15mm axles too. This one used SID caught my eye though but not tapered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100mm-29-Sid-Rock-Shox-15mm-thru-axel-/151313722718?pt=US_Forks&hash=item233b002d5e
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Hey Turbo, have you considered the X-fusion line of forks?
I myself had never heard of them until someone posted about them here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,38.0.html
but after looking at reviews and price I would certainly consider it, and actually may consider it for my full squish build I keep dreaming of.
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These x-fusion's look nice. Im checking these out for sure. Thanks
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I would try to stick with a tapered steer tube. Don't compromise on your fork, get what you want. Not sure what your budget is but here are a few around the $500 mark.
Pricepoint has a Marzocchi Corsa SL at a decent price of $379.
Or a Manitou Tower Pro 80mm QR15 $399. (I think this is the one SN bought).
Or a Marzocchi 320LR 100mm QR15 for $468.
Jenson USA
Marzocchi 320 LR 29" QR15 Fork 2014 for $422.10
Fox 32 Float 100 CTD Evo 29" Fork 2015 $545 (best price on a Fox Fork)
Universal Cycles
Fox 32 Float 100 Terralogic FIT Forks Tapered QR15 2012 $499 (decent price on new old stock)
Fox 32 Float 100 O/C CTD 29" Forks Tapered QR15 2015 $545
ProBike Supply
2015 Fox 32 FLOAT 100 CTD O/C 29" 15QR 1.5 Tapered Steerer Evolution Fork $545 (This is the fork I have but I have the remote lockout)
2015 Fox 32 FLOAT 120 CTD O/C 29" 15QR 1.5 Tapered Steerer Evolution Fork $545 (If you want 120mm of travel)
Wiggle (free shipping from the UK)
RockShox Reba RL 29er Solo Air Tapered Suspension Fork $514.27
RockShox Reba RL 29er Solo Air Tapered With PushLoc Remote Fork $515 (100mm is out of stock but they have the 120mm)
X-Fusion Slide RL2 120mm Tapered QR15 29er Fork $449
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Or a Manitou Tower Pro 80mm QR15 $399. (I think this is the one SN bought).
Yes, but for $250
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SN just curious. Are you getting ALOT of pedal strikes with an 80 mm fork? Does the steering feel too nervous and twitchy?? Thanks.
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SN just curious. Are you getting ALOT of pedal strikes with an 80 mm fork? Does the steering feel too nervous and twitchy?? Thanks.
Hardly any pedal strikes at all so far, and the steering feels fine to me not twitchy whatsoever.
That said.. My trails aren't very technical and are maintained really well.. pedal strikes just aren't that big of an issue for me yet but I will say that the pedals do seem like they are a bit too close to the ground. Not sure what average or normal distance from ground is, and like i said not having pedal strike issues but just looking at the bike the pedals seem low.. Could just be me, I dunno.. What do you guys think?
(http://i.imgur.com/R7tggoO.png)
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I got New 2014 Reba RL 100mm with 15mm axle for $500. This was tough to find with that 15mm axle. You can get 9mm QR's for the low 4xx range but that 15mm axle apparently costs another 100 bucks +.
Build List complete
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eMRzZQpDnofHlpCb8DAsYLKIf2MUE0tY3iZiCT6dvmU/edit?usp=sharing
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Good grab on the fork. You'll love the Reba. Checked out your build list, and looking forward to seeing complete build. So basically you dropped $3180 for a full carbon frame, bars, post, 30mm hookless rims, with XX1 drivetrain and XT brakes. That's cheap in the world of MTB folks.
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Your build looks good, very similar to mine. I spent a bit more, I think I am closer to $3400 for everything and it was worth every penny. The closest big brand, like Fuji, with similar components would have been at least $2500 more.
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Yep. Very nice build.
I gotta get me some of that XX1 goodness.
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I am wondering if I had an oversight. Will the Maxxis Ignitors work tubeless on a hookless rim?
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Should be no problem as long as you add some Stans or my preference these days, Orange Sealant.
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Parts starting to arrive. Is that valve stem not the right size?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NmZfDFGe5AM/U45SrNIXvcI/AAAAAAAAL7s/WYsTeWfbYE8/w375-h666-no/20140603_175559.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tr7gSTTV-vs/U45Zqhi9nKI/AAAAAAAAL8Y/q7UH97mK2NE/w1184-h666-no/20140603_182619.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w4v8OnzCplw/U45TDcPtWpI/AAAAAAAAL7Q/Atq1LPoPL6s/w375-h666-no/20140603_175735.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pyRnwBkxtQQ/U45Swh6AcSI/AAAAAAAAL6U/FU1Nv7D6rKI/w1184-h666-no/20140603_175610.jpg)
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Seems like the valve stem should seat into the hole, have you tried using the nut on the other side to tighten it down, or twist the stem further into the hole?
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The valve stems are Stan's universal 35mm so I think they are too big. I think I am going to use a bontrager strip but haven't figured out what size for the 30mm wide rims. Doing some searching to see if its 406892 9.99 Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric 29" 622 x 22 Black or 433383 9.99 XXX 29er Tubeless Rim Strip 29" 622 x 21 Black
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I didn't bother with rim strips, although posters on MTBR are saying they like that setup. My tubeless setup is working great with just some Stans rim tape, cheaper and lighter too.
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What size valve stem did you use? Stans?
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What size valve stem did you use? Stans?
Yes, Stans valve stems. Once I taped the rims, the valve stems seated fine, possibly the Orange Sealant helped seal around the stem.
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w4v8OnzCplw/U45TDcPtWpI/AAAAAAAAL7Q/Atq1LPoPL6s/w375-h666-no/20140603_175735.jpg)
Would like to get a little more info about the seat, if you don't mind?
How much did it cost?
Do you know the weight?
Any way we can get a close-up pic of the underside/rails?
Thanks! Comfort/ride report would be appreciated when you get to that point, of course. I know, I know it's personal preference with saddles.. Would still appreciate your impressions.
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$55 & 96g
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mMiVHHuV3-M/U4-qm6E5HNI/AAAAAAAAL9o/gZkd_p0jq04/w1184-h666-no/20140604_182353.jpg)
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To turboenterprise:
I looked at my wheels(built by lucky spoke of austin) and he taped the wheel and then screwed on the rubber nut/gasket(see picture).
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Thanks for the pic of the underside of the seat... that thing looks LIGHT! And it is 96 grams.. jeez.. that's awesome. Interested to see how it holds up for you. I'm sure it'll be fine. Especially for only $55. Great deal.
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To turboenterprise:
I looked at my wheels(built by lucky spoke of austin) and he taped the wheel and then screwed on the rubber nut/gasket(see picture).
Yep... that's how mine are as well and they came from Sun Ringle with the strips/tape already installed so that has to be right.
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How flush is the bottom part. The valve is tiered in size and it appears that yours actually is seated farther than mine. Ill try to get it to seal and see what happens.
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I don't think it matters all too much, mate. Your tire will have plenty of clearance once installed.. So long as it holds air (and with sealant, it should) you're good to go. Only problem might be if you have a difficult tire to install, sometimes valve stem can get in the way when you least want it to. Even then, should be fine.
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Valve Stem working so far. I was able to tape (stan's tape 1inch) and use stan's valve stem 35mm and get both tires to "pop". There are leaks but no sealant in them just mounted to shape the tires better.
Front 1571
Rear 1471
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BxZ8sZbNTII/U5SUIdxj2aI/AAAAAAAAMAY/NhWSqYFMCOM/w1260-h709-no/20140608_114858.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XEO9ZY20OBo/U5SwbY3p9bI/AAAAAAAAMA8/fw9fLYQCwAY/w1260-h709-no/20140608_135013.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YwzGuNOzzs0/U5SwpIghAcI/AAAAAAAAMBU/lElXdBIDUSc/w1260-h709-no/20140608_135057.jpg)
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Hey Turbo, nice wheels and tires. Would you mind posting the width of the tire mounted on your rim?
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Hey Turbo, nice wheels and tires. Would you mind posting the width of the tire mounted on your rim?
Ardent 2.4 --2.5/8inch
Ignitor 2.1--2.3/8inch
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Thanks, but I meant the actual width.
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I don't have a digital caliper but a rough estimate is updated above.
Edit: First mistake. I bought centerlock brake rotors and need 6 bolt for match the hubs. I guess I will return the brake set.
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Is this supposed to be flush? I got the "bottom bearing' flush but it took a little rubber mallet to make that happen. Also where do they washers go? Not used? Below the Top race piece or above the top race?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4WO2MFGWzds/U6D-Cjl_uxI/AAAAAAAAMGs/95czrQdmnRQ/w1260-h709-no/20140617_214823.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hewbO9jQZxQ/U6D-XD3FI5I/AAAAAAAAMG4/j0FD1V_vBo0/w1260-h709-no/20140617_214955.jpg)
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I am pretty sure both bearings are flush on my IP-057 and IP-036, (this is a
Zerostack integrated headset), the washers go on top of the bearing, under the Neco cap.
I just pulled apart my my IP-036 last night as it was making a creaking noise, I cleaned and regressed the headset. On mine, the bottom bearing was a snug fit but did push in by hand, the top just dropped in.
Have you tried tapping down the top bearing? What does it look like with the shims, top cap, fork and stem installed?
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Here is what it looks like. I tried the hammer lightly but it wasn't moving farther down. If I push down on it with pressure it will go flush.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g-iHVX5kuyY/U6IRmfGUsKI/AAAAAAAAMH0/t-X8YwIs-CY/w1260-h709-no/20140618_172408.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uF97kSICTKA/U6IOveOGQVI/AAAAAAAAMHM/dISOUoesaRs/w1260-h709-no/20140618_171204.jpg)
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I have to agree, that does not appear correct. The top bearing is just too far above flush with the frame.
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I am pretty sure both bearings are flush on my IP-057 and IP-036, (this is a Zerostack headset), the washers go on top of the bearing, under the Neco cap.
I just pulled apart my my IP-036 last night as it was making a creaking noise, I cleaned and regressed the headset. On mine, the bottom bearing was a snug fit but did push in by hand, the top just dropped in.
Have you tried tapping down the top bearing? What does it look like with the shims, top cap, fork and stem installed?
Uh oh...I thought the Chiner frames are integrated where the bearing drops straight into the head tube. If they are Zero Stack...I'm in trouble because the steerer on my fork won't be long enough.
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I meant to say integrated. They are so similar that I just got the two mixed up. With Zerostack you see the cup flange, with integrated there is no flange.
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Hi guys, I just received my carbon wheels from Yoeleo; however, it did not come with the axle. Do you guys recommend an axle to fit my IP-057 12X142 thru axle with Novatec D882SB rear hub? Sorry for the newbie question...
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So what do you think the options are? Maybe it is just fine too and when I cut the steerer tube it will all work. But I can't figure out this headset and its driving me crazy. I have probably have 3 hours invested on the headset alone doing research going back to bike and then guess and test. Should I buy crane creek?
I am going to do my best to try and describe what i think is happening. If I leave it how it is right now, the steerer and wheel don't move concurrently when moving the handlebars left to right. Does the starnut and top compress it? I thought that was just to cover the top.
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Hi guys, I just received my carbon wheels from Yoeleo; however, it did not come with the axle. Do you guys recommend an axle to fit my IP-057 12X142 thru axle with Novatec D882SB rear hub? Sorry for the newbie question...
Your hub needs to match up to the type of setup 1x11 etc...
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My hangers are 12X142 thru axle and the Novatec hub is the same. I guess my question is which one to purchase. I saw a while back thread on Mtbr regarding the specific axle that fits the hangers for the IP-057 but for the life of me I can't find it.
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I meant to say integrated. They are so similar that I just got the two mixed up. With Zerostack you see the cup flange, with integrated there is no flange.
Oh haha...you scared me for a second. ;D
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you need the shimano e-thru style like:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-xtr-trail-e-thru-rear-axle-m988/rp-prod54897
There are some after market version but they seem to be for weight weenies with starting prices of 100euros and come from Germany or Italy.
Here is one for example: http://r2-bike.com/Steckachsen
it is the tune e-thru 6th one down for 107euros
and you still need the nut for this one.
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Regarding the headset bearing, mine sits up above the frame as well. It looks like yours has more of a gap though- is there something in there causing it to stand off?
(http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac332/patrick_clemensen/IMG_1110_zps1c5b52e0.jpg) (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/patrick_clemensen/media/IMG_1110_zps1c5b52e0.jpg.html)
The split washer goes over the steer tube, with the flange down in the ID of the bearing, with the two spacers on top. Are the spacers under the split washer on yours?
(http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac332/patrick_clemensen/IMG_11091_zps14bb5e91.jpg) (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/patrick_clemensen/media/IMG_11091_zps14bb5e91.jpg.html)
There's no gap once the cover is put on and everything is tightened up.
(http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac332/patrick_clemensen/IMG_1113_zpsbcad5735.jpg) (http://s913.photobucket.com/user/patrick_clemensen/media/IMG_1113_zpsbcad5735.jpg.html)
Hope you can get it straightened out!
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Looking closer at the pictures that Turboenterprise posted, they look to my like the two thin shims that go under the dust cap are too large. The OD of the shims appear bigger than the ID of the dust cap and the dust cap is not able to cover the shims and top bearing.
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I dropped it off at the LBS. We will see what they say. It was outside of my comfort level and didn't want to mess anything up.
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All done
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zHQl5OE5ys4/U6ocaLbNdhI/AAAAAAAAMMM/zid01Kpm-Y0/w1260-h709-no/20140624_194807.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qf-TOasayK4/U6ocdG5s4kI/AAAAAAAAMMY/3q_23dUx2fQ/w1260-h709-no/20140624_194817.jpg)
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Nice work Turboenterprise! You will have to post a review after you get some miles on her.
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Update:
The ride is fast and easy. The seat is a real ass killer but it is super light. I did my second race of season with it yesterday and it felt good. I'll update when I have a few more miles on it.
I did use clear gorilla tape on the underside and drive side (chain).
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So I take it you wouldn't recommend that saddle to others? I looked at that one for a long time and decided to pass. But I still haven't selected one. I think this one or that ultra light Tioga one would be neat, but only for my shorter rides. My endurance rides of 60-100 miles might be messy. Thoughts?
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You will build up a tolerance to those seats.
On those endurance rides, though, I would want liner in my pants or something a little more substantial. I like specialized's body geometry line...expensive though.
Turbo: how are the races going...here they are on hold until the fall(Texas).
Are you feeling or knowing some things need to be changeda? Like XX1, is it have plenty of range for you...are you doing the single loop(cat 1)? Tires hooking up or are they more than needed for XC?
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It is too early to tell about the seat but it is a noticeable difference against the padded MTB that I have on my other bike. I need tolerance for it for sure but do ride with padded Izumi shorts.
I just got into racing and this is the first season I have raced. The race that I did last week and this week are 5 loop Cat B races with hard pack and no elevation. I don't have the legs to keep up finished 28 out of 47 in the last race. But I have done Single loop very technical Cat 2 races. I need to get my endurance up.
XX1 so far is perfect with a 32T for me. I haven't once said to myself I wish I had my 3x9 setup back. My buddy with a FS Niner rode it and loved it and might change out his x9 setup. Tires so far are great, I have had a lot of people ask me about the 2.4 Ardent up front and what I think about it. It probably is too big for XC racing but some of courses we do are really rocky and technical so I got to protect the carbon rim and run low pressure in. Running around 20psi with tubeless and tape on the carbon rims and will slowly lower till comfortable.
Overall I don't have a lot of experience with other bikes so haven't formed preferences to say I changed X because of X.
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Awesome build, Turbo.
I'm interested in the seat as well so plz do keep us updated. Sounds like it's already noticeably less comfortable, but who knows, you may adapt and end up actually liking it more.
You have a total weight yet?
Regarding you question about whether the star nut and top cap compress the stem and headset or not.. They do. I wondered the same thing.
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Getting back to the headset discussion that Turboenterprise was posting about. I took apart the stack on my IP-036 and yes the top bearing is above flush.
The reason I took apart my stack was that I felt movement in the headset even after several attempts to tighten everything down. Turns out my upper bearing and cup have some gap between them.
Upper cup ID = 42.1 mm (spec is 42 ± 0.1), so this is still in spec.
Upper bearing = 41.8 mm (spec is 41.8 mm ± ?) bearing is nominal
So what I'm feeling is a 0.3 mm gap when I grab the front brake and tilt the bike onto the front wheel. Very small amount of movement but I can feel it.
Once I knew there were no real issues, I packed the top headset with extra grease and reassembled. Seems okay but it's interesting that my IP-057 does not have any movement in the upper headset.
Also, I noticed the lower headset is very snug. Unlike the upper bearing, the lower bearing needs to be coaxed into the cup, compared to the upper bearing which just drops in. So I looked up the tolerances of the lower portion of the headset and found this:
Bottom Cup Spec: 52 mm +0.05/-0.0
Bottom Bearing: 52 mm ±0.01 (very high tolerance)
So where the top can be +0.3 mm, the bottom can only be +0.06 mm, much tighter and in reality it feels very tight compared to the top bearing.
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Awesome build, Turbo.
I'm interested in the seat as well so plz do keep us updated. Sounds like it's already noticeably less comfortable, but who knows, you may adapt and end up actually liking it more.
You have a total weight yet?
Regarding you question about whether the star nut and top cap compress the stem and headset or not.. They do. I wondered the same thing.
Update on the seat. Also, everyone thinks I am crazy and have a taint of steel for riding it. If your only interest in weight then go for it but comfort comes second.
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Thanks for the update Turbo. Looks like I'll be avoiding that design.
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Is that crack all the way through?
I would put some tape of some kind on there to keep it from grabbing my clothes...depending on bad it is.
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No its all the way through. I put a piece of clear gorilla tape over it.
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That thing looks mean as hell!
Agree with the 32t front by the way, I only have a standard 11-36 10sp on the back but have never been undergeared, I am tempted to go to a 30 front to give me a bit more use of the cassette but since XX1 rings are $£$£ I'm kinda reluctant to until I find something I have trouble with!
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I have some bad luck. I cracked a rim on a down hill section that I hit must of hit pretty hard. I noticed it because the tire went flat. I love this bike but wishing I had two for when things like this happen.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cgH8MW2oCwM/VA5cgNL1x9I/AAAAAAAAM9U/MZKqrPWKbRk/w957-h718-no/2014-09-08%2B17.35.53.jpg)
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Damn, that's really bad luck! I hope it's possible to fix this rim.
I think I'll be happy that I've two sets of wheels.
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It is interesting that on page 5 you said that you ran the 2.4 to protect the rim - and bam you cracked the rim
Is that the front or rear rim?
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That's a bummer. Are those dark spots on the tire sidewall cuts in the sidewall or just marks? I suppose anything can be broken if the conditions are right, but I was hoping to see the hookless rims be more robust. Hopefully this is just bad luck. I have 3 sets of these rim (myself and my teammates) and I don't want to worry.
What pressures were you running?
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I had just put air in right before the ride but it was somewhere around 22-28 psi. I normally had been riding around 20psi tubeless though. The dark spots are the wetness from the sealant coming out as I moved the tire to take the picture. The tire does have a puncture in it though through the rubber where the rim cracked.
Its the rear rim and I was running an Maxxis Icon because I had an extra one after i put a hole in the tread on the Maxxis Ignitor during a race a month ago. I hadn't switched it back out to the new Ignitor I bought as I was still doing a lot of hard pack XC racing. Most of my daily riding and training though is very rocky and technical riding so I guess I was asking for it.
Ironically enough the guy I was riding with also blew out his rear tire on the same downhill section but he luckily didn't break a rim.
V - I wouldn't worry. I ordered an extra this time around (rear). I figure I can use it for another build down the road but for now it will be an extra.
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I guess you found, and went beyond the limit of abuse a carbon rim can take. Running low tire pressure over downhill rocky terrain pretty much explains it for me. It's interesting to see someone push the limits and see what they can get away with though.
I've put some hard miles on my carbon wheels but nothing like that I would say. Georgia clay, gravel and roots are fairly kind to wheels compared to the terrain out West.
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Yeah I would say those downhill drops at speed (gps clocks at ~18mph) are deadly to a carbon rim. Maybe with 30+psi it can consistently handle it.
What pressure do most of you ride your carbon rims at tubeless?
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I rode my race this weekend at 22 front, 26 rear. Lots of very rocky sections with speeds up to 35mph according to my GPS.
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For the trails I ride and my weight (195 lbs), I keep my tire pressures on the carbon wheels a minimum of 28psi.
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So not too far off on what I was typically running. I think it was just a freak accident and but I worry more about side impacts than what happened this time.
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I forgot to include me weight, 165lbs. Probably +10 with kit.
Either way, this was likely a freak occurrence it seems.
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Agreed. I weigh 165lbs + gear.
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Need suggestions: The nut on the rear thru axle somehow nut got loose on transport to the trail. It fell off and no luck finding it.
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There was talk somewhere on the forum of someone who lost theirs also. They ended up creating their own and it looked really good.
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Update: went to front and back Maxxis Ardent 2.4's; too many sharp rocks
Cliff Notes: hole in two ardents and one Icon
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What do you think? Need some repair or will it be good? I think it will be good. Going to add some Rubber 3m tape.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S28E5bHmSUI/VF5-5w8AmCI/AAAAAAAANDE/YPmD-xK4LrA/w957-h718-no/2014-11-08%2B11.57.44.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wuBrCAv1Zbc/VF5-7O5PKSI/AAAAAAAANDM/_8cWHZeltqI/w957-h718-no/2014-11-08%2B11.57.34.jpg)
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Me personally, I wouldn't do anything with it. However, if you think it might develop into a problem you could try applying some clear nail polish on top of the scrape. It may keep any of the fibers from coming apart, but that's only if you feel you want to do something with the scrape.