Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 26er & 27.5 (650b) => Topic started by: Crankydad on July 16, 2021, 02:45:00 PM
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Hello!
I wanted to share my experience with building up an Ican P1 Frame with my fellow MTBs. For those who are thinking about buying an Ican P1 frame and want to know the ins and outs of the building process and road bumbs along the way. I've done a lot of reading on mtbr and Chinertown threads, and very few posts about the P1 frame. There's some posts about the P8 frame about 3-4 years ago (2017-2018). Ican from what I read changed the name of that frame from P8 to P1 probably around 2019 from a post that emu26 posted on Chinertown titled "P8 Geometry Change: Now known as P1."
This is my first build so I'm super excited to build it up! I ordered my frame in March 2021 and received it finally in June 2021. Been ordering parts along the way, and have everything together
This is what I have:
Frame- Ican P1 (2021)
Fork- DVO Diamond D1 (27.5)
Rear Shock- TBD
Drivetrain Shimano XT (2021):
Bottom Bracket- BBMT-8000 (68/73mm)
Chainring- XT 34T
Crankarms- XT M8120 (Boost 148mm rear spacing)- 170mm
Chain- XT M8100 w/ QL 12-speed
Cassette- XT M8100 10x51
Rear Derailleur- XT M8100 (1x12)
Shifter- M8100 Shifter I-spec (right rear)
Brakes (Front and Rear)- XT M8120 (4 piston brakes)
Rotor (Front and Rear)- XTM800- 180mm
Dropper Post- Crank Brothers Highline 7 (2020)
Dropper Remote- One Up (I-spec EV)
Wheelset- XT M8000 (27.5)
Tire (front)- Maxxis Minion DHR II (27.5 x 2.30)
Tire (rear)- Maxxis Aggressor (27.5 x 2.30)
Stem- E-Thirteen Base 35 stem (50mm)
Handlebar- E-Thirteen Plus Handlebar
Grips- Ergon Ge-1 (Blue)
Seat- Charge Spoon Seat
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$5,000- Total cost of all parts (including some bike building tools)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4msm2cLMdbD2jdfCGgDCstc-GpLllJ5XETltFl64WpOGWTfVfpKegxOs_m7TyfbHml93R1MSP3tQlwvc9mLZdndVB8Fi0rW8HO7b4goFXWiKj8j5AMEGQgSVGCXblvFMMJDWKn8PoGMX_r-HKGVfsZ_oJyzu6faz_quV5ibkzu-buFoPY1jVgs1RRJtNI1B3uw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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I bought 90% of parts brand new, the other parts I bought used from Pinkbike
Why I selected the Ican P1:
1) Great reviews about it on forums and Youtube (Brad of Crown Performance Bicycles does great video reviews on Youtube of the Ican P9)
2) The frame can be used a 29'er and 27.5 (I liked the versatility of that)
3) Reasonable priced- I paid about $900 out the door (after taxes and delivery)
I will let you all the challenges I've had as well along the way. Will keep posted with photos and commentary
Will continue to update my build! Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Crankydad
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New update!
Lesson Learned #1- Confirm with bike frame manufacturer that rear shock frame mount will accept shock with a piggyback reservoir
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m5H2AdUBONYkiWyUTuNGKfYboyl4-3UIM_LhZC5AvmJR5GykqezMjT_aW85tBW_30pV8-3HizYDXEL9o07UmWnCb2rxv227slATZSujlEM_92cRjmfFscsWbBtVHaUEnI2Q_lHOY12hXfd0KnMhSHI582oPZK6dY-pv1AV1en08pbHMdo0kHv4ZWPwYzM4j34?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
As you can see in the front triangle (picture shown is when rear triangle is locked-out (not-compressed), if you were to put a rear shock with a piggyback reservoir, the rear shock (piggyback reservoir part) will make contact with the downtube at compression. You can already notice when shock is uncompressed, it's already in a diagonal position
I bought the DVO Topaz T3 (200x57 or 7.875''x2.25''), and it definitely did not fit and I went to LBS to confirm if won't work. They confirmed that yes only single reservoir rear shock would work
I ended of purchasing the Rockshox Monarch T3 (200x57) which I'm still waiting on receiving. Will update on how it goes
Lesson Learned #2- Do more research on modern/current rear shock sizing. 200x51mm or 200x57mm are traditional (out-dated) rear shock size measurements. From research I've done, the majority of major mountain bike manufacturers (Fox, DVO, Rockshox, Marzocchi, etc) are moving towards "metric" size measurements since 2016.
Lesson Learned #3- If I were to do it all over again, I would definitely have purchased the Ican P9 "Enduro" frame. It's accepts metric rear shock size of 210x55. So in the future if I wanted to upgrade rear shock, I would have more options available
-Crankydad
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Photos from Session #2 (July 7th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Measured and cut steering tube of fork (make sure to place stem, crownfork race, headset, and all spacers/bearings and mark cut on top of steerer tube. Cut 2-3mm below that line to have room for stem cap and bolt or extra 2mm spacer )
2. Installed star nut into steerer tube and crown fork race
3. Installed fork onto frame with headset, bearings, spacers, and stem
4. Measured and cut handlebar to my preferred length (780mm)
5. Installed handlebars on the frame
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Some tools that were super useful to me during this stage of building:
1. Pipe Cutter (plumbing tool)- for cutting steerer tube of fork and also handlebars
2. Reamer for Pipe/Tube- to smoothen the edges of the steerer tube and handlebars after cut
3. PVC Pipe (1 1/2'' Diameter)- to pound crown fork race into bottom of steerer tube
4. Star Nut Setter Tool- To set star nut into the steerer tube
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Photos from session #3 (July 8th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Routed dropper post cable and housing internally from seat tube through downtube
2. Installed left brake lever, then installed dropper post remote onto left brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
3. Installed right brake lever, then installed rear shifter lever onto right brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
4. Installed grips to get correct positioning of brake lever clamping
5. Installed front bake caliper onto fork with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotors)- Confirm with fork manufacturer not already designed for 180mm rotor
6. Install rear brake caliper onto rear triangle of frame with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotor in back)- Ican P1 frame designed for 160mm rotor in rear
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m7iZnEoVIUlddw6cT4YsG9h-akOgTjT2QBARXICgftjgll_bLRMNu-FExCX3cWHXlSS24-jSxJivbZRr7FbQzWsIcav7iBzeXeLjh_JW2txHQ-j6DGnav4Bz96hzQ5SekMgCJ9r7Sva1QsgjMIzq_c1Ddgd1AMcfnYZ7SDmC_5E1WdUp2P-IblDfy5zDYjtnh?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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Tools helpful:
1. Housing dampening foam (for internal routing)- I heard other people say cable rattle loudly during rough terrain on trails
2. Pre-routed plastic with masking tape ends come stock with the Ican P1 frame (so all you need to do is tape housing to plastic and push and pool through frame. Or if routing cable first then housing, you can just insert cable into the pre-routed plastic
Lesson Learned #4- Budget extra time for routing cables internally!- I imagined this only taking 1 hour tops, this took me 4 hours at least!
- Also, the pre-routed plastic were routed in a way that didn't match my setup. My setup was:
i. Left brake lever and dropper post remote on Left of handlebar
ii. Right brake lever and shifter lever on Right of handlebar
I wanted the rear brake and right shifter cables to through from the left side holes of top of downtube then cross to the right side to handlebar. Ican had the prerouted plastic for rear shift cable coming from right side of holes on top of downtube. The same for the rear brake hose (on the right side holes of top of downtube)
The pre-routed plastic for the dropper post was coming from the left side holes of top of downtube. I wanted it to come from the right side holes of downtube and then cross to Left side of handlebar
Something to note!
-Crankydad
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Photos from session #4 & #5 (July 12th & 13th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install tubeless tires on both rims
Tools helpful:
1. Soapy water
2. Air compressor
3. Sealant injector (syringe)
4. Valve core remover
5. Tire sealant
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mMgMHsvURi3WPT-qhutVq-cezY6hOKFOp9ta3t9QUK12zHVkuSxgIMuSiWMf4xBvbLERMELmPu20j6AX3SuWBmzEXS6UBwQLaF8MpxO4pXcbpqY1zEomAvC17TKwop4_fFysJTur2gTSz3cZtOvtwmsSQTgId6A1T4rSO0GXwD9lQYdQV8Sp2ZGcMZVzH80Fp?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
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I was successful in mounting the tubeless tires to the rim! It took me about 20 minutes for each tire to mount on the wheel. I was very satisfied. This compared to routing the cables and brakes hoses to frame, which tooook so long
Lesson Learned #5- Make sure to confirm your tire/wheel is tubeless compatible. I tried mounting a non-tubeless tire onto a tubeless wheel on my previous bike, I was so frustrated why the tire bead wasn't mounting onto the rim. I did this multiple times and tried finding different hacks or solutions and nothing was working! Not until I took the bike to the bike shop to get a bike tune did I realize that when the bike tech told me "Yea your tire is not tubeless bro" FAIL on my part
-Crankydad
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Photos from session #6 (July 12th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install brake hoses onto brake levers
2. Install brake rotors and cassette onto wheels
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mcFU4x0FoKEVac-bXtm9WDef5h3fbYj-SKgVjiZTe9MIGRs6m7bDeizyb9PRGiGz05oUCdIsBi7sGqFwbBhauRwJcTCfNxK__suHkuP_ZaHFj5TG4g8X_Qw_uxeB1bi7RHK1USEqQtG4ShUbPf01c3i3W5x3Svii7SSQirH24GWzld0V8RxV5puR8nTnHTZ4d?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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Tools Helpful
1. Park Tool BBT-9 Bottom Brack Tool- I used this to install the brake rotors onto Shimano XT M8000 wheels. This fits the wheel lockring
2. Park Tool Fr-5.2 Cassette Lockring Tool
Lesson Learned #6- Brake Hose Connecting Olive- After completing the entire bike build, when I took the bike for a ride, I squeezed the brake lever and the hose completely removed from the lever and had brake fluid spilling everywhere from the hose and lever! When I inspected the problem, it looked like the olive was too close to the end of the hose. Per Shimano's Dealer Manual, it says to place the olive about 2mm from the end of the hose prior to inserting into lever which I had it. From this experience, I experimented with placing the olive about 8-10mm away from end of hose prior to inserting into lever and haven't had a problem since. This gives less room for error from the olive clamping down on the end of house that is metal (silver/gold part end of hose for Shimano brake hoses which Shimano calls "Connector Insert"). The olive will actually clamp down on the hose which is soft therefore avoiding brake hose to disconnect from lever
Lesson Learned #7- Brake Hose Cover- Make sure to insert brake hose cover from the brake lever to the brake hose. I installed the brake hose onto the lever, and then realized I forgot to install the brake hose cover. So I had to undo the hose, connecting bolt, and olive and I lost some brake mineral oil because of it.
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Photos from Session #7 (July 13th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install Bottom Bracket
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Thing to know
If you buy the Shimano XT BB-MT8000 Threaded External Bottom Bracket (BB), it comes with a plastic bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC37) so you don't have to buy one. It will fit the driver head of a ratchet wrench
-Crankydad
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Photos from Session #8 (July 17th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install chainring on crankarm
2. Install crankarms onto bike
3. Install travel reduction spacers DVO fork from 160mm to 140mm (Tried and failed)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mLxnK-MhDxfuk1XORCIMk29VEV6MCyJfHyMUxFCGfZ9yOtFWmxHdaandFXMDM_fPq2fksTBNaJUelzUMgBnkUa4mAJozUn_GzZvMzgSb-TNRlbOe2g9_A7bTtvn7DRJ23LOKKOkk8NR3X33CB33eUuWhWSSf3dWJv2cNoFbSzFZcaWprijK5f3_NUOxNSt8U1?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
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(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mzs9ENjg1QyK6ZFs52AaPUExDnuW1iTPMq9iBBQlBK6NquZ7Z8KBqPdIsz1kY4H_ZH5iIul6gJtgM7Yv5ZDD0IGCFZOC3W9grWgN90P1LCoOwSvH4nOjQF63vbeNb-qDoX0yWalfwF45hBK1X-0fIJulp10cVFwW2ZuP-RhBynsqFGY1xbrdDiNQU5Vo5VeKq?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
Tools Needed:
1. Shimano TL-FC41 Chainring Tool (I didn't have. It was a day I just discovered I needed the tool. I was eager to have it installed, so I just it took to the LBS to install chainring onto crankarm
Lesson Learned #8- If frustrated, take a break or continue the next day. I would recommend continue the next day. I was frustrated with forcing an open ended wrench instead of a socket to loosen a nut on top of the fork. So while I was working on the inner cartridge of the fork, I wanted to loosen the nut, and I accidently turned the nut clockwise therefore tightening it instead of counter-clockwise to loosen. I damaged the upper cap of the assembly by using a pin spanner (see photo above). Should not have needed to do
Things to know:
1. Boost Frame and Crankarm Spacers- If you're buying a drivetrain, and your MTB frame has boost spacing (148x12 or rear hub), make sure to install the recommended spacer size between the bottom bracket and the left and right crankarms. For my Shimano XT FC-M8120 crankarms, it was a 3mm spacer on each side of bottom bracket
2. Chainring and Frame Clearance-For front chainring, I had a 34T Shimano XT chainring. There was just enough space from the chainring from hitting the chainstay of the bike frame with the 3mm crankarm spacers installed. Make sure to do research on making sure there's enough clearance with frame and chainring for desired chainring teeth you want to install
Resources:
1. Free to Cycle Youtube Channel
Shimano Deore XT M8100 Crankset And BB Fitting Guide - YouTube
-Crankydad
-
Photos from Session #9 (July 23rd 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install rear shifter cable housing to attach to derailleur and shifter
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mwntmSKIkJG2tGj7dX-vZAOBCqT1O-yR1mbivRXpb7Btx54nNvvkWEq8rP-4mNdbRNm5vYFz-BOEcnYAypVYawT7EHZ1JMIA6V0T0ZSKuwhQ2-GuxaMSX9XK5da1PMp3nHi463VYS1k7taPQEe6Qooeo1JauEp1MUnzYJq5Da505gTcOaS-phI7pkEvbUZcMu?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mV9dP-KOi8ObzPQrPlpEGjUF7LSabvus-62Hzqq_MFk9_udPfTg0hCmEosh-xdN9gED7gY9eFouI5E0dp6GdvKlkytpJ42lhx6Qsbr14ZRc2XfZmHi3KkadDnNU1q-lAy8o-ilAipqqrV5XtWDUAvv5JZU6q0v5Zf5Xe4aL5zus2JR0qwXZrgdOTFqmH7Mfmw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
-Crankydad
-
Photos from Session #10 (July 24th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install rear shock ( I decided to get the Rockshox Monarch RT3 200x57 Rear Shock) ($363 from Amazon)
2. Install wheels onto frame! (This was the most rewarding and happiest part since the bike resembles a complete bike almost!)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mkPTpM4mj-0ItGFMbJfmzJ8N2EUE-JQ4HazTe-5C8VNTBTfT-ICQ87FvT47i0j52ZhU1a1fW7muE-2-9_AKd8orOHLV0ciJlpb-MpWay-QPe3l8f5CvPlVnSCLn9GHvwafGOtDw6vE3fuXAfnnVj7b7CW-hsdsIJcOYXMx9aw-P3sdb2M2nBejB_QTgk6nC_j?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mUNN9KM3qhEugHX99nZ_oPJPEd45nk5dwf1EeSDk5le6XrevbJDBJdXvASWO861rjsT8o3oIQ1-jNVa2laXg5xG6RkGbkHM0QGgj2lovNuFYZFRQ2GRwg4RlM8aPUfYX_gBp-RVkHRIRhy6QE_KbmoFweU_P3ZNqP918qa2J160-dZK3oyi_JO2aKIDzRHNSc?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m5d7ORn0z7IfyOk0QVmbl_jmdRoekt3u8IGKUmrvicLtShvM28V7ufiFLWfllyuFZVo2gS9u4ZHFND6nfYv6QH8u4NsZiBdIjDrRooTpeWfB5fbV_sIlAXc1yeXPFFGWpux2DN4Ag7-_7CzAa7_js8ezpPVxMouxpEketQPyD48_2j7BrrxskHyINvDym4P8s?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mNz17JatXmSkJsRPkNBw_c77kp9RkSQCe9wVXRcZrIIYDfUg9afKszMDQ0JBeDmdhWFlrMzfdMKPvHOR0kU5Go1IZ8DLks3YuxjVo6vUWPfL8pbkjPDB-D7n-SgrKSvCEwoatOLp4_eQw8H_LzUUxEx4Q7RmzqQ4yA2KafOIQenLlKdGYCBTGPEyOufT-eJd1?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
Tools Helpful:
1. Rear Shock DU Bushing Tool- This tool will help you remove/install bushing from your rear shock that you purchase. Excellent for future maintenance of greasing shock eyelets and bushing in the future
Things to know:
1. Mountain Hardware- For the Ican P1 Frame-
22.2x8mm mounting hardware (Rockshox) will work for the frame
- I did a lot of research to make sure the mounting hardware is correct size, it ended up working out
This session was the most happiest part for me after putting on the rear and front wheel onto the frame! The bike really looked like a bike! (as seen from photo above). At this point, I was probably at a total of 40 hours working on the bike. Alot of ups and downs, moments where the bike tool serves it purpose, and moments of frustration where there was a bike part forgot to order, or mistakes were made like stripping a nut on the fork)
So happy here!
-Crankydad
-
Photos from Session #11 (July 30th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Add Shimano Mineral Oil to Brake Levers
2. Align Rear Brake and Front Brake to make sure brakes don't rub against rotors
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m0MWr2TtRc48dCLv3noAG2boQAdDseIqEsGo9BwRuZNv1DLQp3NNLqcfm6vdp8hmFoEAVSUqoF2kOBIjMKq9AF7NigRNuDHBlcO9QZwH_RjlFk6oURTP6W_QW6JG4bzvY3oA2jQo3CS7s-_rvYnt_CSnVn5y2J8SnP-jAQhJh8qOj8Yn-GFHmCG5CqtJIBA4V?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mL7MYH7wvjCELE4Pd5oF-zBVp4BmZQ0y2ya7DSLwQvWV-AfvmLkOihCYM15B6iV-8we8sGDL8xVeshI3woY1rex8RbtSAtEL9Sg1-9GRezGN5f_42PbRbjFdRfx1zE3coOi8EXXoEBAomiiLfWEJM9ku2mxVP7CAqDiMTbUy7MRI8Boef6A5LKncoiew09Jl7?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
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Tools Helpful:
1. Bleed Kit for Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brakes- Cost $30 from Amazon- This comes with a funnel, that is good for adding mineral oil to brakes in case lose mineral oil during brake hose installation and also for future maintenance to bleed brakes
Lesson Learned #8- Get a VELCRO tie to hold the brake lever in compressed position OR have another person hold brake lever down for you. This is SUPER helpful when your aligning your rotors so they don't rub against brake pads. You'll need to loosen the 2 bolts that attach your brake caliper to the frame/fork. Once loosened, compress brake levers and hold with the the VELCRO tie or extra hand. While it's in hold position. Tighten the bolts on brake caliper
Things to know!
1. Brake pad adjustment- Even with the above mentioned lesson, you may still need to work on brake pads to align with rotors so dont rub
I got a good TIP from Syd Fixes Bikes Youtube channel
**IF brake pads still rub after above mentioned step, place a small folded piece of paper (1.5inch x 1/2 inch) on top of rotor, and roll rotor with paper into the brake caliper so paper touches pads
**Make sure to loosen bolts on brake caliper. and then repeat Lesson Learned #8 above. This should just create enough space so the pads dont rub the rotors
Resources:
Syd Fixes Bikes Youtube Channel
THREE DIFFERENT WAYS to center disc brakes and stop rotor rub | Syd Fixes Bikes - YouTube
-Crankydad
-
Photos from Session #12 (August 2nd 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Confirm derailleur guide wheel and cassette sprockets line up for each gear
2. Install shifter cable onto rear derailleur
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mbGE_ZlyexGCWtI25OaaICxh7xRHttL1iM0SgPw2sd4zzMQYaEDOSkSS2bX9IFtpjcB9prsvsMzTQsytd9MJnfX2Bpbd8BXmIaJO_wEry3KhcEmNr2lPu3U-sO9GFuU8sAqjrpHX8n6MWjGWbE1nzafAaKrSxbkyBXwXzE6u_3evyHofSXXC3wER_prIv7gJY?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mws6_ImakkvaS-xlnD94QMO1ziVj0Mu6rjhKWBEPK-yIqVb8mKkCQrGeMzVtVCR9Dt5yasADHkHNHjeynxKrTpZXLWw_2NcgFim4vCoaXgapFx-9MlkZbxteV8x0Vz5-HEmAOL6q60x0JhbUTg3QHPH6hHU17xztAhW1a12nAodHkJjOCx0yE7nbnL1F75hNa?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mX8XIt4QAIOUpaUeRq2oNfkJEhGtRelboBAGjE0hYSUXavvTZUYMEkstJlF7nCCsaYUGapHUGU-H5zuMrdIctzIOjlEtnbPESDLzZ_r5GIPwL4dxM12MILYLcYmRJxP6qwp8PI-NDKdgKsiHip9p81HW1MF4zv1BnyV5eRzgV9x-8IhHREBQ_haRg98xdAPo-?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
Tools Helpful:
1. Icetoolz fourth hand cable puller- Useful for getting shifter cable taut (like having an extra hand while tightening bolt on cable clamp on derailleur)
Tips:
Do these things before installing chain
1.Make sure derailleur hangar not bent- Stand behind the the bike, looking at the cassette and derailleur hanger, make sure the two jockey wheels line up with the cogs (that derailleur hangar is straight)
2. Set high limit screw (for smallest cog)- make sure the upper jockey wheel lines up with the smallest cog. If jockey wheel too far in towards cassette, turn "H" screw counter-clockwise. If jockey wheel too far out towards dropout of frame, turn "H" screw clockwise
3. Set low limit screw (for biggest cog)- **Use your hand to push derailleur towards biggest cog on cassette. After doing this, make sure the upper jockey wheel lines up with the biggest cog. If jockey wheel moves past largest cog towards spokes, turn limit screw "L" clockise to move away from spokes If jockey wheel doesnt reach the largest cog (like it stops at the 2nd to largest cog), turn limit screw "L" counter-clockwise to move jockeywheel towards largest cog towards spokes
4. Secure the inner cable to the rear derailleur- First, set the shifting lever to its initial position (highest gear the smallest cog)- At the back of the bike, remove the slack of cable from end of cable housing, pull taut with fourth hand cable puller (just pull taut enough right before derailleur pulley moves). While doing so, clamp down the cable to the derailleur with bolt
Resources:
Free to Cycle Youtube Channel
Shimano XT M8100 Rear Derailleur Fitting Guide - YouTube
Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual
DM-MARD001-03-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)
-Crankydad
-
Photos from Session #13 (August 3rd 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Measure chain, cut chain, and install chain
Photos below from Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual (How to Install Chain)
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(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m_A1EzTH9RfQIKG6HEstN09DN2v3lt6bMLo3O7FIeFmKbSZsxsMap0U2WFUHw97gscV1szpyfUMRkfVoxCd1v2WyNO9tQzwZ0T27lIKbrQwI2F2nOLfrUi8XJ4oy1Y4Q8dzgXDNBSl0gkPk1icJglFb_NxDx5ERBU4QEvydm17qbpKk3OqkE4l0ost0zrEjy5?width=660&height=394&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mftyZfWL-FnhMJgH3EpwcheKeFoPHUVLHjmn9zvaGsEZ0Bzoyo2rxkHfwWlQGF0GMnO7t50UCCdG8yc2yX6m3yrxDDjft59emz-BvB3_gY-9IrSdsudAICYQ7yzKYrbzw9mkNygdCrrqMlqsW9TYB5d-8_Blb77jeQWzpTsTTvjo-BBgqxONBZyE30ayxfAlk?width=660&height=376&cropmode=none)
Tools Helpful
1. Chain Tool- (Invest in a good chain tool to take out or replace pin on chain)
2. Part of Hangar from DryCleaners- (Cut hangar accordingly, after chain has been cut, will need to use this to hold the opposite ends of chain which you insert Quick Link (Shimano) or Power Link (SRAM)
Lesson Learned #9- Measure chain 3x, then cut! And if using the above instructions from Shimano for full-suspension bike, go with the 6 links instead of the 5 links after the 0 point! I cut my chain too short! It caused me another 4-5 hours trying to add another link onto the chain with my my Park Tool CT-5 Chain tool. I ended up bending one of the links during inputting of the pin into the chain link hole, and it just wasn't the same when the added link was on. Also, I bought some spare Shimano 11- speed pins from Amazon to use instead of original chain pin since because I thought it be easier to insert back into chain. I was wrong. Once the inserted the Shimano 11 speed chain pin into chain and snapped the part of pin that resembled a firearm bullet, there was still a part of the pin protruding on the outside of the chain and it wasn't flush to the chain
Lesson Learned #10- Invest in a good chain tool. I used the Park Tool CT-5 which is like $18. In hinsight, I will definitely be using a better chain tool than something under $20. It should make the pin removing or pin replacing process more smoother
Thing to Know:
For Shimano XT M8100 12-speed Rear Derailleur
(In last photo above referencing "2. Adjusting the B Screw ")
1. Line Inner Side of Outer Plate of Rear Derailleur- THIS IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW- This will let you know if your chain is too short, or too long. Even after adjusting the B Screw. Once you shift your chain to the largest sprocket, go to the non-drive side of the bike looking through rear wheel at the rear derailleur, you'll notice a line at the top of the derailleur outer plate. That line should just about align with the largest tooth of the largest sprocket. In my case, my largest chain sprocket was just about 1/4 inch away from the line meaning it was too short.
I was fed up with this whole chain length process, I ended taking the bike to REI and having them fix it. They ended up adding on another chain link for me with professional tools, knowledge and skills
Also, before bringing to REI, I thought of adding 2 quick links to the chain to lengthen chain since easier to add a quick link to input original chain pin to add a link. Didn't look right, so I recommend not doing that if you're thinking about doing that
Resources:
Shimano XT M8100 12-speed Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual
DM-MARD001-03-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)
-Crankydad
-
August 9th 2022
Hello! New update! See below on photos of finished product
I completed this build in early August 2021 and just forgot to update it on here now
Since I had cut my chain too short and was off by like 1 link, the derailleur hanger showed tension on the lowest cog (hardest gear). Because of that, the shifting wasn't smooth, and I was unable to lineup the tip of the largest tooth on largest sprocket with the line at the top of the derailleur outer plate (I believe this is specific to Shimano XT M8100 12 speed derailleur drive train). My largest chain sprocket was about 1/4 inch away from the line. Even with adjusting the B-screw, I still wasn't able to line it up
So I decided to go to REI and have them check it out and help me. They ended of fixing it by lengthening the chain, and the largest tooth of largest sprocket lined up with the line at the top of the derailleur outer plate. I paid about $20 and it was totally worth it
See below on my complete build!
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4micSInXwbauLq6gvEWrcIAQgeqtNj4mux4pcD3VJh7Wl9YMTNKyjLb1dqh_qbIsXxXeDc-nbEmQaePeoHBbTa8insm65wYpLCYlP-gv6wXVY1eH_KKEXa8nAVGyS31VUpqfYFXm_cCEz0XHB_du-D-UHdzLLoXXizWNxykTXpLGOpus4ECoJyns3AIN_wRTih?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
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-Crankydad
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Awesome write up, thank you! There are some great lessons and tips in there.
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My pleasure! That's great to hear. Hoping to help anyone thinking about buying this frame what to expect with challenges and providing resources to help with their build. Thanks for your reply and feedback!
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Now that you've had the P1 for a full year, what are your thoughts on ride quality, durability, etc.? Can you give us an update?
Thanks!
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I've done about 35 rides on it with about 375 miles for about 1 year
I've enjoyed it very much so far! Previous to this bike, I rode a 29'er hardtail. The biggest difference I notice when riding over rough trails (chattery trail conditions) is that on hardtail it feels so uncomfortable and chattery, compared to riding this P1 full suspension bike that immediately disappears! So awesome, it's like I don't want to go back to riding hardtail anymore. Also, another difference I notice compared to riding 29'er hardtail, and riding this bike because it's 27.5'', I feel less fearful of descending technical terrain because I just feel more planted to the ground because of smaller wheel size and lower bottom bracket height. I have much more confidence, and don't have the fear of going over the bars as much
Ride quality has been excellent. The type of features I ride include climbing over some roots about 1ft or less in height, descending small to medium rock terrain, small drops 2ft or less, ramp/rock drops (about 3ft-4ft drops), small to medium sized jumps. I have not taken it to the bike park but been wanting to take it there as I've never been! I've just been able to do so much more riding this trail bike and love trying out new features I wouldn't have otherwise.
Durability has been impressive. Nothing to note here. I'd like to try it out at the bike park, and can report back when I'm able to get out there
Hope this helps!
-Crankydad
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Update as of June 26th 2023:
I've had approximate 48 rides and 500 miles on the ICAN P1 2021 bike so far. Bike has held up pretty well. I've finally have taken it to the bike park here in Southern CA earlier this month! My bike setup is 135mm rear shock travel and 150mm fork travel. It was a good time at the bike park! The flowy trails, the medium berms, the ladder bridges, the jumps, it felt like I was at the Disneyland of Mountain Biking! I definitely want to try and get back up there again. The green and blue trails were fun because the trails would wind around, and there are some techy ladder bridges. The black diamond advanced trails has some medium sized jumps that the bike handled just OK. I felt like I was almost bottoming out in my suspension and the landing felt a slight harsh. On double black expert trails with large jumps (which I did not fully clear, I'm still progressing on jumps. I didn't go as fast as I would want since still I'm still fearful and learning. I would ride up at a moderate speed and jump and either land onto the side of the trail, or would land in the middle of the table top before the sloped landing area). The landing felt real harsh, and in my opinion, I definitely needed more travel than my 135mm rear shock and 150mm fork. I demoed an Intense Tracer 29 (which had 160mm rear travel and 170mm fork travel), it felt so much more plush on the landing and I felt 10x more confident riding the jumps and the features.
Further, a minor item I had with the bike is the rear thru axle. I take out the thru axle every time I clean the bike, or want to service the bike, it's maybe 1-2x/month. One item that came up is that the top head of the thru axle which takes I believe a 8mm hex wrench has started to strip. I ended up stripping it so badly that the thru axle wouldn't turn anymore so I reached out to ICAN and they actually sent me a new thru axle. Which was great! Took about 1-2 weeks to receive it. But I was happy they did that, and luckily it was still under the 2 year warranty.
Moreover, regarding a minor rear thru axle item on the bike I've had trouble with. When I push the rear through axle through the frame, into the hub of the wheel, and then try to fasten into the thread on opposite side of the frame, sometimes the thru axle wouldn't catch on the thread. The thru axle would keep turning, but wouldn't fasten into the frame. It would work sometimes, and sometimes it would not. Eventually it stopped fastening all together. So I removed the derailleur hangar, and wanted to replace the derailleur hangar that ICAN provided with the bike during purchase. I tested the thru axle outside of the bike with that derailleur hangar, and it fastened perfectly.
Now, when I tried removing the flathead derailleur hangar fasteners (there's 2 fasteners needed to mount derailleur hangar to inside of the frame), I remembered I overtightened one of those small fasteners previously from a different time I removed the rear wheel. When I tried unfastening that overtightened screw, it wouldn't turn and I ended up stripping that tiny derailleur hangar screw. I've had trouble the last 3 weeks trying to remove it. I've tried 3 different methods with trying to remove the screw. #1) Using a stripped screw extractor, putting glue onto head of screw first and then hammering the extractor to the head of screw, and then using the drill bit extractor to unfasten. that did not work.
#2) I tried using the stripped screw extractor on the other side of the screw trying to unfasten at the bottom of the screw compared to the top since the bottom of screw is exposed on the outside of the frame. That didn't work. The screw is just too small.
#3) I tried using a wrench/pliers to untighten the nut of that tiny derailleur hanger screw, and that did not work.
It's been frustrating. To this day, the stripped screw is still in the frame.
What I'm about to say right now may not make sense, but I was actually able to remove the derailleur hangar, the nut of that stripped screw, what it does is actually pinch the derailleur hangar into the frame. The other flathead derailleur hangar fastener is the one that actually fastens into the derailleur hangar itself. That screw is fine, and I'm able to remove that one.
So I was able to put new derailleur hangar on the bike, I slid the derailleur hangar into the small space where that stripped screw and nut pinch it, I had to use plastic mallet to force it a little into that small space where it gets pinched, and then was able to fasten the other fastener of the derailleur hangar into the frame and into the derailleur hangar itself.
Further, I'm now still able to ride the bike.
That's all for now.
Thanks!
Crankydad
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Hello!
I wanted to share my experience with building up an Ican P1 Frame with my fellow MTBs. For those who are thinking about buying an Ican P1 frame and want to know the ins and outs of the building process and road bumbs along the way. I've done a lot of reading on mtbr and Chinertown threads, and very few posts about the P1 frame. There's some posts about the P8 frame about 3-4 years ago (2017-2018). Ican from what I read changed the name of that frame from P8 to P1 probably around 2019 from a post that emu26 posted on Chinertown titled "P8 Geometry Change: Now known as P1."
This is my first build so I'm super excited to build it up! I ordered my frame in March 2021 and received it finally in June 2021. Been ordering parts along the way, and have everything together
This is what I have:
Frame- Ican P1 (2021)
Fork- DVO Diamond D1 (27.5)
Rear Shock- TBD
Drivetrain Shimano XT (2021):
Bottom Bracket- BBMT-8000 (68/73mm)
Chainring- XT 34T
Crankarms- XT M8120 (Boost 148mm rear spacing)- 170mm
Chain- XT M8100 w/ QL 12-speed
Cassette- XT M8100 10x51
Rear Derailleur- XT M8100 (1x12)
Shifter- M8100 Shifter I-spec (right rear)
Brakes (Front and Rear)- XT M8120 (4 piston brakes)
Rotor (Front and Rear)- XTM800- 180mm
Dropper Post- Crank Brothers Highline 7 (2020)
Dropper Remote- One Up (I-spec EV)
Wheelset- XT M8000 (27.5)
Tire (front)- Maxxis Minion DHR II (27.5 x 2.30)
Tire (rear)- Maxxis Aggressor (27.5 x 2.30)
Stem- E-Thirteen Base 35 stem (50mm)
Handlebar- E-Thirteen Plus Handlebar
Grips- Ergon Ge-1 (Blue)
Seat- Charge Spoon Seat
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$5,000- Total cost of all parts (including some bike building tools)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4msm2cLMdbD2jdfCGgDCstc-GpLllJ5XETltFl64WpOGWTfVfpKegxOs_m7TyfbHml93R1MSP3tQlwvc9mLZdndVB8Fi0rW8HO7b4goFXWiKj8j5AMEGQgSVGCXblvFMMJDWKn8PoGMX_r-HKGVfsZ_oJyzu6faz_quV5ibkzu-buFoPY1jVgs1RRJtNI1B3uw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m3zJSgCz4yBorSWB1WyHfKZ4g-VjDwuRt1ki0rxMCDTN1U5qTe4P0apmty3aIOAJSCZxNT2XgAAbawHbuId7EaznWsU15yF5W5MlDf0n0sw1e2bXAxcX6GAAADB3xZ6EFKWCSUp1maBDltwKDQ0UtNwRJ17ubm0fiyHGRC7QbJOF4L1mNNR5ugJ9n41nsg0TO?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4m5H2AdUBONYkiWyUTuNGKfYboyl4-3UIM_LhZC5AvmJR5GykqezMjT_aW85tBW_30pV8-3HizYDXEL9o07UmWnCb2rxv227slATZSujlEM_92cRjmfFscsWbBtVHaUEnI2Q_lHOY12hXfd0KnMhSHI582oPZK6dY-pv1AV1en08pbHMdo0kHv4ZWPwYzM4j34?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
(https://bn1301files.storage.live.com/y4mGNhO5-Y8zNh722G90-GzhuOjYBfDAKMUaOQ3buyAaYrcNque0arfmDWKG_xkmsAM3n9LHiYLvD9KIYe9kUhJJ5iXvwaTEypZt7xeulmrf6GKWruZ8BLX_RThe5yWfUXt08IuPMChy6iZCAa-5MFEAO9whOFrlMTMjtEoE79lw4UQRCeCo1xb8wrVXMOqDZHV?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none)
I bought 90% of parts brand new, the other parts I bought used from Pinkbike
Why I selected the Ican P1:
1) Great reviews about it on forums and Youtube (Brad of Crown Performance Bicycles does great video reviews on Youtube of the Ican P9)
2) The frame can be used a 29'er and 27.5 (I liked the versatility of that)
3) Reasonable priced- I paid about $900 out the door (after taxes and delivery)
I will let you all the challenges I've had as well along the way. Will keep posted with photos and commentary
Will continue to update my build! Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Crankydad
Did you end up sticking with the 27x 2.3'' tires or did you go wider? I am looking to run 27.5x 2.3 or 2.4 for my wife. I do not want to run 27.5 plus tires. I am just looking for ride quality on this frame with "normal" 27.5'' tires.
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"Did you end up sticking with the 27x 2.3'' tires or did you go wider? I am looking to run 27.5x 2.3 or 2.4 for my wife. I do not want to run 27.5 plus tires. I am just looking for ride quality on this frame with "normal" 27.5'' tires."
I actually went wider. I returned the 27.5x2.3 and instead got 27.5 x 2.5'' both front and rear. I feel like it worked well for me, I liked the grip that it provides, and running lower air pressure. I usually run about 24 PSI rear and 22 psi front. I do enduro riding, enjoy technical terrain, rock gardens, medium jumps, and medium drops. The 2.5'' look pretty sick with the wider tires. I know with narrower tires, the climbing efficiency is incrementally better. I didn't notice too much of a difference with the 2.5''.
I hope this helps.
-Crankydad