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Messages - OlieSimpson

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1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« on: April 04, 2024, 03:47:08 AM »
Quote from: trytogo on April 03, 2024, 04:23:35 PM
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.


I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: January 31, 2024, 01:50:52 PM »
@TCal

I've just sent you a PM on my instal method :)

For the filing, you need to file the inside of the cable stop where the outer enters the stop, I needed to 'open' the hole up on the cable stop so the angle to cable entered wasn't so tight.

3
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: December 01, 2023, 02:07:23 PM »
If it's any help I'm 5'7" (170cm) and ride a 52 with 400x90 one piece bars and 170mm cranks. Never had an issue with the fit of the bike and have always found it comfortable, with the longest ride I done being around 135km.

I've never had a bike fit so got no idea if what I ride is the most optimal position but it does feel okay.

Hope this helps,

Olie

4
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« on: November 30, 2023, 09:23:51 AM »
As an existing (and happy) VB-R-168 owner it's seems that the 268 will be a lighter, stiffer version of the 168 with a zero set-back post. I would also imagine the inside of the frame is 'cleaner' than the 168 given it's produced with a latex bladder.

Seems like this would build in to a really nice bike given how comfortable the 168 is to ride.

I've got no experience with the axle system (and have never actually heard of it until now), so am interested to hear if others see this as a positive.

Olie


5
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Paging patliean1- VB-R-168 vs Dengfu R12?
« on: August 12, 2023, 01:47:19 PM »
Hi Takiyaki,

My only feedback here would be you will easily be able to run 30c tyres on the 168. I'm running 28c on wide rims (30mm external / 24mm internal) which measure 31mm once inflated and there is a lot of room both front and rear to spare.

I've put 6,000km's on my 168 and it's been great, zero issues and lovely to ride however I've no experience with the Dengfu so can't give a comparison.

Good luck with your decision!

Olie

6
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 11, 2023, 09:09:15 AM »
Quote from: joegal on August 11, 2023, 08:46:27 AM
Hey guys,

I ordered my frameset and its in the process of painting, in candy blue.
But I still have some questions while planning my build.

Did your frameset come with grommets for the exit ports of the brake hose? Meaning the holes in the chainstay and fork to prevent rubbung of the brake hose on the carbon.
Or did you buy Specialized grommets? Or use none at all?

Secondly: Does the frame come with di2 cable grommets? Or which ones did you source yourself?

How did the Di2-Users mount the battery? I read about just stuffing it in with bubblewrap, but is that safe?
Has anyone tried the SL7 Battery mounting grommets (S199900003)


Thanks for your input! Really looking forward to build up mine soon!

Greetings from Germany

Hey Joe!

My frame came with a soft rubber grommet for the rear derailleur exit, a hard plastic (removable) housing for the rear brake, and a metal housing for the front derailleur. Nothing was needed for the front brake exit on the fork with how the cable exits the fork leg.

It didn't come with anything for Di2 cables so I'd also be interested to hear what people have done here.

For the SL7 grommets, the seat posts on the Sl7 and 168 are different shapes so I'm not sure if this would work, although I've got no direct experience with this so someone else may advise otherwise  :)

Good luck with the build, they're great bikes for the money!

7
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Which Disc-Wheels??? 65 mm height / Tubeless / min. 21 mm innerwidth / TA
« on: August 10, 2023, 10:14:10 AM »
How about the FarSports Gravel wheels: https://www.wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-built-with-bitex-straight-pull-disc-hub-p0059.html

Deepest they go is 58mm but seem to meet your other criteria?

8
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Frame recommendation
« on: August 08, 2023, 03:06:51 AM »
3rd thumbs up (i think) for the VB-R-168, 18 months and 6,500km's on mine and it's been great. Would very highly recommend it!

9
Component Deals & Selection / Re: SROAD lightweight cassettes
« on: August 07, 2023, 02:40:41 PM »
Quote from: jonathanf2 on August 07, 2023, 01:22:20 PM
Are these SRoad cassettes worth it? I've read issues with the alloy spider by the rivets being a weak point. The Lexon store on AliEx, has them on discount, but for not much more I can just pick up an Ultegra / 105 11 speed cassette with proven durability.

I've used my black SRoad 11-28 cassette for roughly 6,500km's with zero issues and have had great shifting (paired with Shimano R7000 shifters and derailleur and Ultegra CN-HG701-11 chain). I wouldn't say durability is an issue from my experience.

I'm actually going to pick a second one up (11-32) whilst they're on offer at Lexon.

10
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: August 04, 2023, 02:17:37 PM »
a2lacrosse, I've just re-built mine using shimano R7000 groupset which is the 2nd time I've done it.

This time I started at the bars and worked my way back which I found much easier than starting at the rear and going forwards which I did the first time.

The way I routed the cables was:
  • Brake cables through the bars
  • Gear cables through the bars
  • Rear gear cable through the frame
  • Rear brake cable through the frame (yes you can remove the black clip on the rear chainstay)
  • Front mech through the frame (you may need to file some metal from the black clip to allow the cable to sit in at a normal angle which is what I had to do)
  • Front brake cable

If you need any other advice on the build let me know!

Olie

11
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Hygge Aero Carbon Frame
« on: July 25, 2023, 02:12:26 PM »
Quote from: coffeebreak on July 25, 2023, 11:23:48 AM
You might already have the cable routing tool so you should be good even with 4 cables to manage. If not, definitely recommend to get one. I have RISK branded tool and for the price its rather effective.

I've just re-built my fully mechanical VB-R-168 using the risk cable tool and it was pretty straight forward. Tool is well worth the money.

Started with routing the bars first, coming in through the stem and out through the each end of the bar. Then the frame from front to back.

The first time I built it I routed the frame first (again starting at the front) then did the bars, I would't recommend this way as it took WAY longer and was much more stressful.

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Integrated Bar Cable Routing Tips
« on: July 23, 2023, 03:16:28 AM »
Yep, using Jagwire Pro for both gears and brakes which is about as good as you can get as far as I know.

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Integrated Bar Cable Routing Tips
« on: July 22, 2023, 10:21:29 AM »
Hi guys!

I have a VB-R-168 and their HB011 integrated bar/stem in a 400mm/90mm size (so as narrow and as short as they produce) and have a fully mechanical set-up (105 groupset and Juin Tech GT cable disk brakes).

I've just swapped out the updated c-ring from VeloBuild to help with headset play (which is great and totally solved the issue), but in the process have noticed that my outer cables are frayed and worn through at the point of exiting the stem and entering the frame. I believe this is because of the super tight angle they exit the stem and the pressure of them rubbing against the metal stem spacers.

Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to have to strip the bike and fully re-cable because of this, so am looking for any tips on avoiding this issue before I start the re-cable process.

Thanks in advance,

Olie


14
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Unreadable Topic: "VeloBuild Headset Play Issue"
« on: July 19, 2023, 10:27:53 AM »
Just installed the new C ring that Chris kindly sent and it's got rid of all headset play that I have (which was very minor using the original C ring).

As above I must say this is great service by Velobuild to take on the feedback, correct the error and ship the updated part out completely free of charge without any questions asked. Not many mainstream companies would do this let alone 'Chiner' brands.

15
Component Deals & Selection / Re: SROAD lightweight cassettes
« on: October 09, 2022, 12:10:41 PM »
I've got an 11-28 SROAD SLR2 cassette in black that is used with Shimano 105 mechanical derailleur and shifters. Put around 6,000km's on it so far and it's been flawless. Shifting is fantastic and it's super light. Would highly recommend them.

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