Maybe I’m blind, but I couldn’t find anything on the Ingrid website or socials that indicate where they are made.

I did find this one 30mm spindle version, but only one chainring size. 
US $108.70  39％ Off | INGRID ROAD CRANKSET CRS-R2 Bicycle Hollow Bike Crank Chainring 110BCD
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLoaBiM

Thanks. Yes, admittedly, I'm not at all well versed on geometry and I did notice that the tubes seemed more geared towards weight savings in some and aero in others. 

I currently ride a 2011 S-works SL3 with R7000 105 components. Rim brake, obviously. It's on its way out and I'm not that happy about what you get for your money from the LBS these days, so want to build up my own bike. Not just for the cost savings, but also for the learning experience.  I thought I'd go with some frames that were similar to the SL7 but obviously I've missed the mark. I'm obviously many years older now, and I'm wondering if my reach has shortened a bit.  I'm also heavy enough that the weight savings from a very lightweight frame will be wasted on me. I'd rather go with a frame that is a bit heavier but well made and remains stiffer for longer.  I don't race apart from a couple of 160km sportive's per year, so happy to go with a more endurance type bike.

I know this is a very open-ended and question, but if you do have any suggestions about a frame that might be a good match, let me know. Thanks.

My preferred action is going to be to build up a new disc brake bike for the reasons stated above

Nice build Berzerko! My two cents on buliding up the 168 with Di2 (mix of old and new gen stuff, all 11sp). Everything went smooth for me except for the wire to the FD. The metal grommet that I got with the frame was too narrow for the head of the wire to come through, so I just drilled it out a bit and all was ok after. Note that if you take it out to drill, which you probably should, it can sometimes be tricky to mount it back to the frame with the screw it comes with. Was fine for me. Also, possible you get a different type of grommet that makes things easier.

I find my interest in AliExpress parts has started to wane. I do like the carbon components, but other than that I still would rather stick with name brand drivetrain parts even if I have to wait for discount sales or buy used domestically.

Confirmed that the two small parts are cable stops/guides for front derailleur. But I wasn't able to utilize them and received this answer "You can use either one" from Chris for my detailed questions and back and forth over the email. None of those nozzles fit tightly into the hole for cable.
Decided not to use those and hack something else to fit. From the local hardware store I bought 3 parts.

1. A rubber grommet.
2. A small flanged spacer
3. A slightly bigger flanged spacer than above.

The spacers are sized such that the smaller one inserts into bigger one and since both of them are flanged, my idea was to sandwich frame material between the two.
It worked perfectly.

Basically the larger spacer went into the hole from inside the frame with little circus and then I inserted the smaller one along with the rubber grommer into the bigger one which was now sticking out from the frame.

This created a nice tight guide for the cable and also closed any gap around the spacers.

I mean how likely is it that they would produce Syncros branded bottle cage bolts for a fake frame? Can’t be sure. But I think the photos are showing the real thing.