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Back in the polluting good old days, there used to be a lot of enamels and lacquer paints that could be easily painted by brush and could be sanded/blended/feathered. These days in the world of water based paints and powder coated paints, it has become very difficult to paint by brush and achieve a finish that looks good.I am going to go with Humbrol Enamel Paints for model painting. Will get a few little pots and try to mix up the colour I need. Shouldn't cost more than £10 total, excluding clear coat.
I recommend you look up some automotive factory touch-up paint companies and ask them what they recommend these days. The last touch up painting I did was about 10 years ago using an air brush. Air brushes are inexpensive relative to the cost of paint these days. (Aliexpress probably sells them too.)
Tooseek have good products, and good serviceI've got a lot of toseek / toorock stuff. I did not know firespider was them too! I'm sure I'll be ordering something soon
https://toseek.aliexpress.com/store/912268096
Their upscale brand is Firespider
https://firespider.aliexpress.com/store/1100268111
With stiffer and lighter carbon
You don't really need a clutch derailleur on a 1x road setup unless you're sporting a bigger road cassette. On one of my road bikes I used a 44t + 11-32t cassette on a 105 R7000 RD with no drop chain issues. I live in a hilly area and it was easy to climb with this setup. If I lived in the flats, I would have definitely gone with a 50t or bigger. Also using something like a 1x Pass Quest aero chainring has beefy chainring teeth. Just make sure to size your chain properly so it's fitted properly.I honestly had something like this in mind! I am very interested in the Riro carbon cranks with their own skeleton 1x chainring. I will definitely look into the other components you mentioned.
If you're used to rolling with a 52/17, something like a 52/11-28 or 11-32t will seem easy for you. If you want a lightweight, affordable 1x groupset option, I'd get an Ultegra RD, Sensah HRD hydraulic Team Pro carbon shifters (11 or 12 speed), a RiRo/Racework carbon crankset (the new version) and a Pass Quest aero chainring. I'd stick to an Ultegra cassette and chain if possible for best shifting.
Yeah don't get. That's one area carbon doesn't have an advantage. An UNO ultralight alloy stem is the way to go. Get a set of titanium bolts to cut an additional 10 or so grams.My Uno stem just arrived today
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806179921956.html
installed and will be testing it on the ride to work in the morning.1x on a road groupset is not necessarily any lighter for the equivalent range of a 2x drivetrain. You need a bigger cassette and a derailleur with a clutch mechanism (like L-Twoo's GR series or Sensah's SRX series). The additional weight of these is about equivalent to an inner chainring and regular rear derailleur. There are certain applications where it makes sense, but odd as it may sound, a budget build is generally easier to do with 2x.I have no idea what a derailleur with a clutch mechanism is, do the shimano road derailleurs have this feature? I'm going to need to do some research. Why does going 1x require a bigger cassette? is it so that you can get a bigger range of gears?
First thing: you have to decide if you want to go with our without front derailleur. The common style for road bike is with front derailleur, which gives you a large range of gears with small steps in-between the gears.I'm used to riding fixed gear in 52/17 everywhere I go, not up many hills but up some hills non the less. I think I would be fine with a 1x drive chain with no front derailleur. I also like the idea of building a lightish bike.
Second: without any judgment on quality and reliability, Sensah, Ltwoo and Shimano follow very different styles of shifting.
Sensah is equal to Sram. Only one lever does the shifting in both directions.
Shimano uses two levers. One for up, the other one for down.
Ltwoo uses one lever and one thumb shifter like Campagnolo does.
You see.. your choice influences not only the spent money.
I have owned a pair of G8 Performance 2620 insoles for over 3 years and 30,000km. Happy with them, but not the price for replacements as they do wear out. So when I saw these copies I purchased a couple of pairs.Looks like I need to get some of these in soles! Doctor told me I have pancake flat feet the other day
They look almost identical to the G8s, so much the arch supports looks and feels the same and are interchangeable. Which is good news as the arch supports do degrade over time (a comment BikeFit James made about the G8 on YouTube, I have experienced with my G8 and The difference is in the sole, 2620 are available in 4 sizes, the copy is one size, looks based on a large (I have a med 2620) and can be trimmed to any size between 41 and 46.
The sole looks to be made of similar but slightly different material
The heel and footbed attachment points sit flush with the original, the copy they protrude a little from the sole.
Very happy with my purchase and will make good use of them.
