Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: emu26 on October 15, 2020, 01:33:38 AM
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Does anyone have any experience with the ZTTO threaded BB86 / BB92 bottom brackets, either ceramic or normal? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33021799492.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.10.551c4f0d8pC56Q
I'm ask because I am wondering if those 4 o-rings used to seal the frame are enough to cause any movement in the bb or if the fact that it is threaded and screws together is enough offset and "squish" the o rings might cause?
TIA
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I have one on my carbonda FM936 and its really really well made. I can't speak to the bearings quality but the shell is good. The plastic top hats were about 0.01-0.02mm too thick so a little bit of sand paper and it was golden. the top hats space the bearing and the axle.
The 4 o-rings should be good for a little bit of tollerance issue maybe 0.05-0.1mm. I've not actually ridden the bb yet but it went in very nicely.
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Thanks. Did you get the ceramic bearing or the "normal"?
I just stumbled across a post on MTBR for them and the OP commented on the bearings being slightly too big and that they came with plastic spacers. https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/ztto-bb92-thread-together-bottom-bracket-24mm-shimano-1112783.html
I might take a punt and replace the bearings with proper ones when the time comes.
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I did put one on my 062 few months ago, changed the steel bearings immediately, with good ones, as they were with metal sleeves.
No problem so far.
Screwing the two cups together until flush, make the assembly strong.
I did put loctite compound over the last centimeter on each side before pressing.
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I ordered the standard bb86 version and they sent me ceramic anyway. I am around 300km in and the bb is solid. i just greased it up and screwed it in with no problems. only negative point is how difficult it was to get the drive side crank in, it required a few too many punches to my new carbon frame than i was comfortable with.
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I ordered the standard bb86 version and they sent me ceramic anyway. I am around 300km in and the bb is solid. i just greased it up and screwed it in with no problems. only negative point is how difficult it was to get the drive side crank in, it required a few too many punches to my new carbon frame than i was comfortable with.
Next time try a couple of turns of an appropriately sized one of these to clean up the inside of the shell. https://toolswarehouse.com.au/products/grip-29013-50mm-120-gript-flap-sanding-wheel?variant=21213204185201¤cy=AUD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2cWckIDT7AIVWcEWBR3QDgtEEAQYBiABEgLc0_D_BwE
and thank you for the feedback.
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I ordered the standard bb86 version and they sent me ceramic anyway. I am around 300km in and the bb is solid. i just greased it up and screwed it in with no problems. only negative point is how difficult it was to get the drive side crank in, it required a few too many punches to my new carbon frame than i was comfortable with.
I had exactly the same problem, the plastic top-hats are too tight. I used a diamond nail file. Worked well after a couple passes!
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I ordered the standard bb86 version and they sent me ceramic anyway. I am around 300km in and the bb is solid. i just greased it up and screwed it in with no problems. only negative point is how difficult it was to get the drive side crank in, it required a few too many punches to my new carbon frame than i was comfortable with.
I had exactly the same problem, the plastic top-hats are too tight. I used a diamond nail file. Worked well after a couple passes!
Apologies Matt_C I misunderstood your post and read it as you had trouble getting the drive side BB into the frame.
theirishrider, if you put the tophat on the crank arm first then put it into the bb would that help or is it simply a case of the top hat section that goes into the bearing is just too thick?
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I'm sure that sanding wheel would be perfect for taking a fraction of a millimetre off the plastic caps. I'll give that a go next time I have to remove the crankset... Not looking forward to punching it back out though...
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I'm sure that sanding wheel would be perfect for taking a fraction of a millimetre off the plastic caps. I'll give that a go next time I have to remove the crankset... Not looking forward to punching it back out though...
Yep, it's tight. I could only get one side of the spindle through. When I tried to get it out, it pulled the bearing out. The bearing went back in ok. Its only a fraction of a mm so the sanding is really quick and easy. I don't know why they make it so tight to be honest.
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I'm going to try putting the BB cups in a freezer before my next install-with access to dry ice, you could "cryofit" even further.
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My cranks have got like 1mm play. I think It's because I ruined the top hat trying to remove it once. Any suggestions about where to find replacement bearings/tophat for 24mm Shimano spindle? :o
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What cranksets are you all using with this BB? I'm using this onehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920639633.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dq2WAt4 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920639633.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dq2WAt4) and the spindle is too short to house all the way into the non drive-side crank arm properly, it's about 4mm short. I suspect the thicker flanges on this BB are the problem.
My cranks have got like 1mm play. I think It's because I ruined the top hat trying to remove it once. Any suggestions about where to find replacement bearings/tophat for 24mm Shimano spindle? :o
Sorry mate I don't but at the cost of the BB is worth mucking around with and not just getting a full replacement?
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...it's about 4mm short. I suspect the thicker flanges on this BB are the problem.
It depends the width of your frame at the BB shell.
If it is 86/92mm the BB is flush with the frame.
If it is 68/73 the BB protrude to make about the same end width as above.
PF30 spindles have two lengths, and can be too short if coupled with the wrong BB.
That's why I start to like DUB, that works for all frames.
As long as you use the right BB.
Zrace is an Ali brand doing DUB cranks.
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I have a SRAM GX DUB crankset and DUB PF BB on order but I was asking specifically about what cranks are being used with this Ztto bottom bracket being used in a matching frame. I believe the thickness of the screw flanges makes the overall width too wide.
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Is the crank arm that is touching the flange of the BB ?
There is no need of a spacer to make a gap?
It looks like a Hollowtech spindle though.
I've installed a Shimano cranksets with that BB and it was fine.
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changed the steel bearings immediately, with good ones, as they were with metal sleeves.
@carbonazza could you share which bearings you're using exactly? I bought this BB for use with a zrace hardrock crank, which has an aluminum spindle, and now I'm concerned about corrosion (steel bearing shell + aluminum spindle).
(EDIT: I'm asking because I interpreted your post as saying that you didn't like the metal sleeves.)
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@carbonazza could you share which bearings you're using exactly? I bought this BB for use with a zrace hardrock crank, which has an aluminum spindle, and now I'm concerned about corrosion (steel bearing shell + aluminum spindle).
(EDIT: I'm asking because I interpreted your post as saying that you didn't like the metal sleeves.)
Isn't the axle coated with something that would prevent corrosion or is it raw aluminium?
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What cranksets are you all using with this BB? I'm using this onehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920639633.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dq2WAt4 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920639633.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dq2WAt4) and the spindle is too short to house all the way into the non drive-side crank arm properly, it's about 4mm short. I suspect the thicker flanges on this BB are the problem.
Sorry mate I don't but at the cost of the BB is worth mucking around with and not just getting a full replacement?
Shimano XT 12s boost :) Ah thats frustrating. 4mm is alot. The XT ones fit pretty well.
You're right, it's hardly worth it!
So last night I was boxing my bike for a flight. And I had to remove my power meter and therefore the cranks too. I tried to get the crank shaft out and I wouldn't come out, tapping away (gently) did nothing, I have to unscrew the BB with the driveside crank still attached and the axle in there. The damn top hats. I'm going to replace the bearings with 24mm ID ones. According to this https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ztto-bb92-thread-together-bottom-bracket-for-24mm-shimano.1112783/ (https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ztto-bb92-thread-together-bottom-bracket-for-24mm-shimano.1112783/) I can replace them with these and remove the need for the plastic shim https://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-bracket-parts/bb-bearings/enduro-24x37-abec-3-sealed-bearings-bag-of-2.html (https://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-bracket-parts/bb-bearings/enduro-24x37-abec-3-sealed-bearings-bag-of-2.html)
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Isn't the axle coated with something that would prevent corrosion or is it raw aluminium?
Good question -- I don't know. It doesn't look coated to me, but I attached a pic in case someone can tell that way.
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Good question -- I don't know. It doesn't look coated to me, but I attached a pic in case someone can tell that way.
Almost looks like steel, but yeah most likely not coated with anything.
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@carbonazza could you share which bearings you're using exactly? I bought this BB for use with a zrace hardrock crank, which has an aluminum spindle, and now I'm concerned about corrosion (steel bearing shell + aluminum spindle).
(EDIT: I'm asking because I interpreted your post as saying that you didn't like the metal sleeves.)
I changed the bearing on my bike with the PF30 version of the BB, with 6806 bearings.
The BB86 one comes with 6805 bearings with a ID of 25mm, leaving a space, well maybe too little, for the sleeve.
BBInfinite provides sleeves too for GXP 24/22mm.
Not sure if it is to protect the alloy spindle from the steel of the bearings( PF30 BBs do not seem to care about this).
Or maybe 6805 are just bearings more common in the industry ?
...So last night I was boxing my bike for a flight. And I had to remove my power meter and therefore the cranks too...
Was it explicitly requested by the airlines ?
I never had any issue with rechargeable PM(P2M) on the bike.
With Ryanair and TUI.
Almost looks like steel, but yeah most likely not coated with anything.
I was thinking alloy ??? Maybe try with a magnet, if it sticks or not
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Yeah it’s definitely not magnetic. First thing I tried 8)
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Was it explicitly requested by the airlines ?
I never had any issue with rechargeable PM(P2M) on the bike.
With Ryanair and TUI.
Nope, but since the chainring would somewhat be loaded in the bike box, i though prudent to remove it. 10 mins work while preventing 300 euros of damage :)
So, just bought new bearings for the ZTTO bb. 19gbp from here:
MR2437 LLB Enduro Bearing Abec 3 - 24x37x7mm
https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/mr2437-llb-enduro-bearing-abec-3-24x37x7mm/17126 (https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/mr2437-llb-enduro-bearing-abec-3-24x37x7mm/17126)
Need to figure out how to get a seal for the outside :)
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Need to figure out how to get a seal for the outside :)
I just cutted the old seal, but I'm always open to better solutions
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I think the seal works on two sides.
Preventing too much mud/water to arrive to the bearings.
And a guess, they prevent water ingress at the shaft too.
I find wet mud inside my PF30 one, that kills my bearings from the inside :o
The only option I found is to drill a hole at the very bottom of the BB, when the bike is horizontal.
I had the same issue with a BBInfinite, and against their advice I drilled it at 2.5mm
If water enters, it has a way out other than trough the back of the bearings.
And my bearings last much longer.
Then BB infinite came with these kind of seals.
Probably better to have a trap, or a purge hole already below the frame to do this.
However I did it on my 041 that didn't have any.
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FYI my bottom bracket has a manufacturing defect (pic attached: the notches on one side are not machined properly. My tool fits fine on the other side and on all the other BBs I’ve installed with it). Been going back and forth with the ZTTO Official Store for three days on getting a replacement and I’m running out of patience. They keep suggesting my tool is faulty or that I’m just holding it wrong...
Where did you all buy yours? Any affordable (<50 EUR) alternatives to recommend?
I mean, if I’m truly doing something dumb and the BB is fine, that would be the best outcome — please tell me :-)
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Got mine from the ZTTO official store on Aliexpress and I didn't have that trouble.
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FYI my bottom bracket has a manufacturing defect (pic attached: the notches on one side are not machined properly. My tool fits fine on the other side and on all the other BBs I’ve installed with it). Been going back and forth with the ZTTO Official Store for three days on getting a replacement and I’m running out of patience. They keep suggesting my tool is faulty or that I’m just holding it wrong...
Where did you all buy yours? Any affordable (<50 EUR) alternatives to recommend?
I mean, if I’m truly doing something dumb and the BB is fine, that would be the best outcome — please tell me :-)
Thats such a weird problem! I suggest you just file the notch down, should only take a second - but im sure the BB will give you plenty of life after. If you file it, the tool will still engage on all the notches!
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Yep, just decided to do that as well! ;D Haven’t made up my mind if I’m going to tolerate the imperfection ::) on my midlife crisis bike / 40th bday gift to self (my yoeleo r11 is being painted, should ship out before the lunar new year!)
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Where did you all buy yours? Any affordable (<50 EUR) alternatives to recommend?
You can usually find Shimano XT BBs for $30. I bought an XTR lon Ali late last year for $25 shipped.
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Actually, I just realized ??? do you need two bottom bracket wrenches to install or does one side stay put due to friction?
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Actually, I just realized ??? do you need two bottom bracket wrenches to install or does one side stay put due to friction?
2 is easier but you can use one with the friction and your fingers :)
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I have 2 but found I only needed the one to do it up sufficiently tight.
That pic that Adriaanm posted showing the filed down notches is really telling re my problem. Look at how "proud" that plastic shim sits from the face of the aluminium body. If you look at other brand screw together bb's the face the crank arm sits against is level with or slightly lower than the outside face of the aluminium body. When my new cranks and bb arrive i think I'll bite the bullet and pull the ZTTO apart to see why the bearing covers sit so high. If they sat lower I'm sure the spindle on the cranks I have would be long enough.
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Hi!
I'm planning to order my first total bike build, and want to use this bb.
When installing did you use a bb-press first, then screw in the other side (seen this on an MFG installation tutorial), or only the wrench?
I've read the posts above, but being a noob I just want to be sure that I order the right tools.
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You can only use the wrench.
But a press will allow you to replace the bearings.
Look for Muzqi on aliexpress.
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I just greased mine up, pushed one side in then pushed the other side in until it "engaged" the first side. Turned them by hand until they got too tight then used a bb wrench to tighten. Pretty easy installation.
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I installed one with the ceramic bearings. No issues but next time I might get the standard bearing version and swap the bearings out for enduro ones.
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Is anyone else concerned about the notches and how it might grind away at the bottom bracket shell? Mine is pretty rough on the inside surface where it should mate against the BB shell. I might at least take some high-grit sandpaper and smooth it out. It would be nice if they left enough clearance there for a .5mm washer on each side.
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Trying out the ZTTO Thread Together Press Fit bottom bracket. Proactively replaced the bearings with some Japanese ones - we’ll see how long it lasts.
Aluminum shell machining looks great, the bearing has an ID of 25mm (instead of 24mm) so a plastic shim / spacer is used (similar to what Shimano does with their press-fit BB's). Looks like it's made out of ABS plastic, probably gonna disintegrate over time. Would have been nice if they made it out of Delrin instead (as that would have been tough, and will pretty much last a lifetime). Bearings used are 6805-2RS (25mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width).
The others i've tried (Wheels Mfg BB86-OUT, and the Origin 8 Revolvr ) uses a bearing with a 24mm ID so no shim required (crank spindle contacts the Id of the bearing). Bearing used are MR2437 ( 24mm bore, 37mm OD, 7mm width). That direct contact though, causes the spindle to wear (as you can see from my crank, the shiny part).
Pretty easy to replace the bearings on these things as long as you got the proper tools. If one wanted to get rid of the plastic shim/spacer and make it direct contact, just replace the bearings on the ZTTO with MR2437 bearings, then buy the Wheels MFG Shim Spacer Pack (SHIM-SPACER-PK)
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Nice! What bearing press/kit do you use?
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Nice! What bearing press/kit do you use?
RRP (RapidRacerProducts) Bearing Press, and the Proper Drifts (sold separately).
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Hi,
What are the difference between this threaded pressfit BB and another one at 100$ or 300$ ??
for example:
100$
https://www.yoeleocanada.com/products/origin8-revolvr-bb86-92-thread-together-bottom-bracket?variant=42559178244273
360$
https://www.bspbikes.com/product/wheels-manufacturing-bb86-92-thread-together-zer-ceramic-bottom-bracket-262400-1.htm
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Hi,
I have installed a ztto BB86 threaded BB on my new frame (Speeder Cycling SC 52D), but after a few rides the bb is creaking :(
Any of you experienced this and found a solution ?
I have the ceramic version, and the crankset is a Red AXS GXP. I just threaded the cups and installed the GXP adapter for the non-drive side.
On the Token Ninja I think a wavy washer is required on the drive side, but ztto dot not provide this washer so I thought it was not necessary ?
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First you have to be sure the noise is coming from the BB.
As a creak can come from many places and resonate through the frame like a drum: pedals, screws of the ring(s) or the rear hanger not properly tightened, seatpost, stem/bar, loose wheel axles, cassette, rear hub bearings or free wheel parts,...
Ideally check out all this on a home trainer with someone else listening where the noise originate. And try to replace the easy part you think could creak, eg: pedals, rear wheel
Then, or if you are certain it is the BB.
Check the smoothness of the non drive side bearings, it is the one that generally dies first with gxp.
If not smooth, replace bearings. Either with a good brand SKF, NTM,... that will last a little longer, or buy them by the dozen on aliexpress and consider it as a disposable part.
The wavy washer is there to take any slack and preload the non drive side bearings that takes all lateral load.
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Hi,
I have installed a ztto BB86 threaded BB on my new frame (Speeder Cycling SC 52D), but after a few rides the bb is creaking :(
Any of you experienced this and found a solution ?
I have the ceramic version, and the crankset is a Red AXS GXP. I just threaded the cups and installed the GXP adapter for the non-drive side.
On the Token Ninja I think a wavy washer is required on the drive side, but ztto dot not provide this washer so I thought it was not necessary ?
In addition to what was mentioned above I have seen some people use PTFE plumbers tape to take up any tolerances which solved their creaking. Can be an easy fix.
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I currently have a ZTTO threaded press fit BB86 steel bearing BB installed in one of my bike frames. It's currently working great! I have a few questions if I plan to upgrade the bearings:
1. Can I leave the cups/sleeve in place while removing the bearings?
2. I'm presuming I would need to use a press fit tool to install new bearings?
If it requires removing the whole assembly again, maybe it's better just to get a brand new BB instead (though somewhat wasteful).
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thanks for your inputs electrolux and carbonazza, actually the noise came from the nds crank arm, the 8 mm bolt was loosening itself during rides, especially when I was out of the saddle. I had to re-tighten it regularly on the fly during a bikepacking trip.
When tightened, the crankset did not spin freely but I do not know the source of the issue. I did not want to carefully investigated this, and replaced the ztto bb by a token ninja lite, and now I think this is working properly.
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1. Can I leave the cups/sleeve in place while removing the bearings?
2. I'm presuming I would need to use a press fit tool to install new bearings?
1. Most likely.
2. Yes.