...But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good...

It looks great indeed! I'm thinking about ditching my Canyon Ultimate for this one.
One question. Are the cables passing through the headset bearings, or next to it ?

Hey guys, how is your experience with noises on this bike while riding, how quiet it is? ( seen that 180mm bolt issue )

I don't notice any noise but the freewheel.
What potential noises would bother you ?

...Looks small enough to patch though

I would throw it out, it will crack more at the next bump.
Not that is dangerous, but it may leave you without saddle in the middle of a long ride.

I was learning to nose-pivot with my MTB.
And once felt hard with all my weight(well...67kg) on the saddle.

Both rails cracked, absorbing most of the shock instead of my butt.
The saddle stayed in place, not rigid nor rideable anymore, but not a carbon explosion either.

I contacted EC90 by aliexpress, and they did send me one free + a small shipping.
Now I stocked 2 of them in case I break one again.

We could ask to make the rails with a kevlar blend like on some expensive models.

I once asked Carbonda to include anti-noise foam tubes with my frame ...

Interesting. Do you have a picture of it ?
Wasn't it possible to put it through the BB or the headtube ?

I have the ZTTO double bottle holder and love it. I'm on an XL frame and don't have any interference, but I could see there being potential issues with a smaller frame. I also had problems with dirt getting in my bottles, but I 3D printed caps and that solved the problem

I did an enduro week early in the summer, and just finished the Swiss Epic with it.
On some bumpy segments, there were bottles all around, but I kept mines !
There is some interference with my M size, when going "en danseuse" with ample movements or sprinting, which I don't do often.
And never when sitting.

While you could apply everything you listed( threadlocker and grease everywhere ) here is what I usually do:

• Grease for seating the headset into the head tube. Marine grease to delay rust
• Lubricant the headset bearings Marine grease to delay rust
• Carbon paste for attaching aluminum stem to the carbon steerer tube. No
• Grease for treating the BSA68 threads before installing the bottom bracket. Copper grease.
• Lubricant for the bottom bracket bearings. Marine grease.
• Treating carbon seat tube before installing carbon seat post. Carbon paste
• Thread lock for SRAM hydraulic brake calipers. Sometimes
• Lubricant for for thru-axles. No
• Thread lock for thru axles. No
• Lubricant for crankset spindle (SRAM GXP). Marine grease
• Thread lock for crankset spindle. No
• Thread lock for pedals. Copper grease, they will tighten as you ride but won't seize
• DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers. No
• DOT hydraulic brake fluid. Buy small bottles as they saturate air quickly. Cheaper in Motorbike stores.
• Lubricant for installation of brake disk lock rings. No
• Lubricant for installation for cassette. No
• Thread lock for installation of rear derailleur. No

Please tell me if there's any place where I SHOULDN'T be using anything.

Please tell me about anything you think I've missed.

Do not lubricate the frame when you press a BB use a lockcompound instead.
Do not lubricate your cassette and rings, only the chain and wipe it out after (I know many who do this, so just to say it  )
Sometimes clean and lubricate the bearings in the derailleur pulleys, and your pedals.
Clean the pivots of your derailleur, the ones that move when you shift.

You need to buy them.
Usually they come with Shimano brakes, because it is their invention, but for other brands you need to insure one of the provider, hub, disc, or wheelbuilder provide you with some.

There are two types of rings.

Inside lockring, you tighten with a cassette lockring tool. Usually for 12mm axles.
However, some front hub, need a cassette lockring tool that is thinner.
As the endcap may not leave enough room for some tools.
DT-Swiss 240, some Novatec have this issue.
Unfortunately I do not have experience with Bitex.

Outer lockring, you tighten with a BSA hub tool. Usually for 15 and 20mm axles. And for the unlucky 12mm axles above too.
In that case, you need to insure your frame provide clearance as it is thicker, and may interfere with the frame.