Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: hazzer19 on November 30, 2023, 01:15:14 AM
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VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables
Looks like a spec'd up VB-R-168
Highlights for me:
- T1000 carbon frame built using EPS and latex
- Mavic speed release system with axles included (what's everyone's experience with this?)
- zero offset seat post is stock
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Good catch!
I checked their website two days ago as Chris teasered a new frame to me a few months back!
looks quite interesting!
I wonder if the zero offset seatpost fits into the 168 frame. I will ask Chris about that!
Geometry is still the same as 168/SL7/SL8, but tube shapes look even deeper/more aero (ik, you cant see aero ;))
Who is going to buy one? ;)
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Indeed it looks like a further development of the 168 frame. If so, it is not, as usual, a replica of western bicycle manufacturers. I wonder if it is really their own design?
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I think it basically looks like the VB-R099, except for a slightly shorter and deeper headtube.
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so.. about that speed release system. i guess it saves a few seconds when exchanging a wheel, but is there any other advantage for "not team car supported" riders? always the same clamping force due to the torque release? what am i missing?
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Great looking frame. I'm impressed they're keeping the 499 USD price point.
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And here I thought I was finished reviewing super affordable frames...
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so.. about that speed release system. i guess it saves a few seconds when exchanging a wheel, but is there any other advantage for "not team car supported" riders? always the same clamping force due to the torque release? what am i missing?
There's really not much of an advantage there unless you're using Speed Release Axles with a small hand lever so you don't need a tool, IMO. It might be ever so slightly more convenient but it's no wonder really that this system never caught on. Really weird choice to spec this frame with it. I wonder if this used to be an OEM exclusive design but the license has expired so the mold became available? But then again I don't think I've ever seen this before.
I guess you could still use this frame with regular thru axles, as long as the thread pitch is the same.
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As an existing (and happy) VB-R-168 owner it's seems that the 268 will be a lighter, stiffer version of the 168 with a zero set-back post. I would also imagine the inside of the frame is 'cleaner' than the 168 given it's produced with a latex bladder.
Seems like this would build in to a really nice bike given how comfortable the 168 is to ride.
I've got no experience with the axle system (and have never actually heard of it until now), so am interested to hear if others see this as a positive.
Olie
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What do you guys think about the weight. Looks pretty good to me. Would a cheapish bike around 7,5kilo possible (with 50mm Elite Wheels and Ultegra Di2)?
Anybody had contact about a when to order/deliver?
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Hello guys,
i am quiet new here around. Today i ordered one of these new frames. I intended to buy the 168 but then this one appears. Let’s see how it will work out.
greetings
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The 177 is my favorite road frame from VeloBuild. I really enjoy the riding dynamics for the price and I found it to be much more responsive than my 168. Despite preferring the overall look and geometry of the 168.
For all intent and purpose this new 268 it sounds like it's built very similarly to the 177. If the road feel is the same or better, VeloBuild will have a huge hit on their hands for 2024. Smart move by VeloBuild.
Regarding the weight difference versus the 177...it's about as marginal as the aerodynamic gains from the 268.
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Speed release axles are double threaded. It will be difficult to find third party axle
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Speed release axles are double threaded. It will be difficult to find third party axle
I guess it's smart to order an extra pair with the frame then.
I'm considering going for this one over the 177 (or maybe the Ican A40, which is a beauty but more expensive). I asked about stock and they have some.
Getting two frames, sharing shipping costs, is tempting :)
Should I get wheels as well, or is it better to buy them at Elite (looking for 50mm, affordable, lighish (145-/1500gr) wheels).
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Chris on seatpost compatibility with the 168: it doesn’t fit because the 268 seatpost is wider
What a bummer
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Not sure how I feel about the quick release axles. Extra moving parts and a source or failure for little (or no) benefit. Not sure what the positives even are.
Bummer about the seatpost. Would love to get a zero offset for my 168.
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This frame looks really good. Love the low geo, its not quite as stretched out at the Yishun 086, but i like the look quite a bit better. This is definitely a race geometry. As others have mentioned, the thru axle choice is also very curious and expensive. Makes me wonder if this is was prototype mold or something that didn't work out for a bigger brand. There are legends that some of the open molds in the 2010s started that way; though this doesn't look like a Willier, Derosa, Lapierre, or Orbea.
If you need to / want to ditch the Mavic Speed Release axles, Robert Axle Project does make replacements.
I dont need to buy an aero bike to build. I dont...need...
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It looks like the merged the venge from 2019 with a tarmac sl7 and the axels from cannondale.
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Is there any chance to get a sl7-stem or another handlebar/stem work on the top cap?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
What's a 20 degree setback post?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Isn’t setback usually given in millimetres rather than degrees?
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Is there any chance to get a sl7-stem or another handlebar/stem work on the top cap?
I am probably going to work on this over the next few weeks; and it should fit this frame, though it wouldn't be made for it. I am still considering buying this frame; but haven't got around to asking velobuild if they would just sell me one without any handlebar. I really should get a cross bike, since i actually "need" one vs. another road bike.
I run a small Etsy shop on the side (largely to subsidize my CAD subscription) and have made a number of these kinds of spacers and adapters. If you want to design these yourself, you can definitely use a nylon to get decent results. I think @thestickybottle on instagram, raceware direct, elilee etc are using just regular PA12 made on commercial grade printers. These prints are not as dense and not as strong in compression as OEM injection molded stuff, but they should be strong enough. I spend personally spend an extra $5-10 and get glass filled nylon for anything in constant compression as its much more creep resistant and about the same strength as the OEM stuff.
Edit: I should add that I already have a versions for electronic wireless shifting for the Kalloy Uno stems and drop in replacement C-rings that offer greater contact area as well. DM for more info.
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What's a 20 degree setback post?
I'm an idiot.
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Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
How I manage this is I add the saddle setback to the Effective Top tube length of the known frame setup and then compare that to the frame that has a zero setback seat post.
For example, your Tavelo Attack frame size L has a 15mm seat post setback and an effective top tube of 553mm (390mm reach).
Your total "Imaginary" effective top tube length would be 15+553 = 568mm.
To translate that to the VB-R-268 frame that has a zero setback seat post, you would need to go with the size L of the VB-R-268 which has an effective top tube of 563mm (398mm reach). Then adjust stem length according to your needs.
Coming from a 20mm setback you may need to push your saddle about 5mm forward, off dead center which is fine as far as you do not go beyound the saddle's safety mark.
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So, I am a bit confused about my selection Right now - money is Not the point, I am really struggling between a SL8 and this one here.
For me I have mixed emotions with a chinese frame - my TanTan X21 worked 10k more or less superb (just feeling a bit unsecure about 80km/h), but my newer Airwolf/Aspero frame has dozens of problems I don‘t want to face the next time.
So in case of this 268 what do you think about quality?
My other „problem“ will be mounting another stem or cockpit, which will not fit on velobuilds cap. A friend of mine is familiar with 3d prints, but where do I get those files?
Is the Stack measured with or without cap?
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If you wont miss the extra $2K, getting the SL8 is probably worth it. Easier access to spares, easier shop service if you need it. Proven performance etc. and you will get some of that back on resale if you swap bikes every couple of years.
Regarding your concerns around fitting other bars and stems. This bike uses a 1 1/2” upper bearing, so you should be able to swap it out for headsets from Deda and FSA and use systems compatible with their designs. You will lose the shaped transition spacer. Integrated bars tend to come with fit kits including their own spacers. Higher end Chinese ones like the BigRock Skyline II even include their own C ring.
RE: 3D printing. Some people release their 3d printed designs on sites like printables. I personally do not, as I don’t want to offer support for the design or deal with people printing the designs in materials that they aren’t designed for and then telling me the design doesn’t work.
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Sakizashi since I already have the 168, like you I am considering getting the 268, without the handlebar and stem. My issue with VB is the shortest (width) handle bar they have tends to be 40's and I prefer 38's. Also in the past I have seen a tendency for their sep handlebar and stem tend to result in headset play vs their one piece. The 950 grams for the medium (current 168 is a 54) is of interest considering I would probably go a bit smaller (52). Suspect I can probably end up with a build of 7.2 (pedals and bottle cage included)
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I run a small Etsy shop on the side
You don't happen to have a link to your Etsy, do you? I don't know know if you remember, but talked about an adapter you were making for hiding the Zeno couplers under an SMR stem. (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4455.msg50564.html#msg50564) Figured I'd see if you sell it instead of having to reinvent the wheel.
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You don't happen to have a link to your Etsy, do you? I don't know know if you remember, but talked about an adapter you were making for hiding the Zeno couplers under an SMR stem. (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4455.msg50564.html#msg50564) Figured I'd see if you sell it instead of having to reinvent the wheel.
I am really bad about listing stuff for sale. I think its about a three month delay from a "final" design to a listing.
I just pulled this stem off the road bike to make some adjustments after a few months of testing. Just wanted to create a little more room on shorter length stems with a small design change. The new prints should be here within a week and assuming they come out how I expect, I will add a listing for it. Should be about $50 shipped in the US. I will DM it to you when it's up.
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Has anyone else’s ordered and/or received this frameset yet? Looking to build a new bike this season, came up on 105 DI2 from pro’s closet.
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Hello,
yes I received mine last week ago. It's under construction. As long as i can say, everything is pretty good. I am going to post some pictures in a few days.
JV
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Hello,
yes I received mine last week ago. It's under construction. As long as i can say, everything is pretty good. I am going to post some pictures in a few days.
JV
Could you weigh the frame, fork and hardware etc?
Thanks!
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I also just placed an order for this frame, with the new red "ice break" velobuild paint. Super stoked to build a bike with this + Yuanan wheels + 105 Di2 from the pros closet. Will update with photos/comments/a build thread when it arrives!
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saw this on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM)
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saw this on youtube
Your post didn't come through for me but I imagine you were referencing this unboxing video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM&ab_channel=OBridesbikes
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This is the vid: www.youtube.com / watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM
Idk why the link gets killed...
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yep exactly, very strange for me i can see the video directly in this thread
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If you wont miss the extra $2K, getting the SL8 is probably worth it. Easier access to spares, easier shop service if you need it. Proven performance etc. and you will get some of that back on resale if you swap bikes every couple of years.
Regarding your concerns around fitting other bars and stems. This bike uses a 1 1/2” upper bearing, so you should be able to swap it out for headsets from Deda and FSA and use systems compatible with their designs. You will lose the shaped transition spacer. Integrated bars tend to come with fit kits including their own spacers. Higher end Chinese ones like the BigRock Skyline II even include their own C ring.
RE: 3D printing. Some people release their 3d printed designs on sites like printables. I personally do not, as I don’t want to offer support for the design or deal with people printing the designs in materials that they aren’t designed for and then telling me the design doesn’t work.
I think getting SL7 is better choice than SL8 - it should be cheaper, no major difference between the frames and most importantly SL7 doesn't have the Buttsniffer™
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I think getting SL7 is better choice than SL8 - it should be cheaper, no major difference between the frames and most importantly SL7 doesn't have the Buttsniffer™
I totally agree, but I am in the nice position to get a frame much cheaper because a friend of mine is working in the bike industry. Of course „cheap“ is the wrong word here. I am really unsure about my decision, but in the end I am trying to whitewash it with selling it later for nearly the price I will pay now…
I really like the shape of the 268, but the uncertainty of getting the roval cockpit work is a huge obstacle for my idea of building it up.
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I just placed the order for the 268. I picked the silver chameleon paint job. Anyone had the chance to build their own?
Mine will be with elite edge 45mm. I still have to pick a groupset. I want to go with Chinese mini groupset, but event in the mechanical/hydro brakes, I don't believe they are there yet to compete with Shimano/Sram.
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I totally agree, but I am in the nice position to get a frame much cheaper because a friend of mine is working in the bike industry. Of course „cheap“ is the wrong word here. I am really unsure about my decision, but in the end I am trying to whitewash it with selling it later for nearly the price I will pay now…
I really like the shape of the 268, but the uncertainty of getting the roval cockpit work is a huge obstacle for my idea of building it up.
If money isn't an issue just get the specialized. It'll be lighter, better to ride and the chances of you getting an actually properly made and QCd product are massively higher. And even if there are issues you will be able to warranty it locally and talk to people who actually speak your language.
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Is this new 268 just not a Velobuild Venge?? Look very similar??
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU)
The missing hole on one side of the handles is a bummer! VB should replace this faulty unit.
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exactly, I hope he will ask them
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And that's the Velobuild tax
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Another topic is that there is no hole in bottom bracket to let the water out. I had to drill it too and in his video it’s visible that he also has no hole in his BB. I commented this in his first part of the video. I hope he will noticing it.
But no big thing with the handlebar. I guess Velobuild will replace it.
My bike is nearly finished. Pics will be coming soon.
JV
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Hi Everyone!
New to the forum but I have been following many builds and decided to try it myself.
I have purchased the 268 frame too - it should be on it's way and arrive the coming weeks.
Chris has been very helpful with my requests, but it seems that the frame has been sent with a matte finish rather than satin as requested. Chris is helpful in trying to find a solution.
I will certainly drill a hole in bottom too! ;)
I have the most "respect" for the internal cable routing and the bleeding of the brakes, guess I will watch some youtube videos to get it right!
For the parts, I will be running a mechanical 11speed 105 groupset, Ican Alpha 40 Pro wheels with 30mm Schwalbe Pro tires.
Will post some pictures as soon as I get the frame!
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My 268 pearl white glossy is also on its way, hope color will be right :o
Hi Everyone!
New to the forum but I have been following many builds and decided to try it myself.
I have purchased the 268 frame too - it should be on it's way and arrive the coming weeks.
Chris has been very helpful with my requests, but it seems that the frame has been sent with a matte finish rather than satin as requested. Chris is helpful in trying to find a solution.
I will certainly drill a hole in bottom too! ;)
I have the most "respect" for the internal cable routing and the bleeding of the brakes, guess I will watch some youtube videos to get it right!
For the parts, I will be running a mechanical 11speed 105 groupset, Ican Alpha 40 Pro wheels with 30mm Schwalbe Pro tires.
Will post some pictures as soon as I get the frame!
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I received the frame yesterday and it was shipped to Germany within 10 days. That was really fast. I did a first inspection and the quality seems to be very good. However, a final verdict is still pending as you can only really say something about the quality when you build the frame and ride it. This will happen in the next days and weeks.
I can confirm that the tire clearance is 32mm. Probably even wider tires will fit without problems.
I have a first small problem with the mounting of the rear thru axle. I had to re-cut the thread there. A small thing, but it has to be mentioned.
I'll get back to you as soon as I have more details and will send photos and weights.
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@jepa83, any updates to your build?
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Got my 268 frame last week before going out of town and just started working on it last night. Didn't plan on drilling a drain hole in the BB but after taking the BB out of my 177 it was clear that I needed one. Checked with VB just to be sure it would be ok and then confirmed it was. Drilled a small hole into the frame and carrying on with the build.
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What size of hole do they recommend?
Got my 268 frame last week before going out of town and just started working on it last night. Didn't plan on drilling a drain hole in the BB but after taking the BB out of my 177 it was clear that I needed one. Checked with VB just to be sure it would be ok and then confirmed it was. Drilled a small hole into the frame and carrying on with the build.
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BTW, for those who have their frame: what shape/dimensions is the interior of the seatpost? Wondering how I'm going to mount my Di2 battery.
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My frame arrived!
Well packed and undamaged. Mine even had the bottom bracket hole already drilled, and the holes in the handlebar were good too. The additional derailleur hanger that I asked for wasn't included.
On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
The paintjob looks like good quality, and my decals were neatly placed.
Just a question, I have 105 brakes but no adapters for mounting (160mm disc in front, 140 in the back) - anyone knows which one specifically I need? I ordered one but it seems to be the wrong one, will wait until I get it.
Now awaiting the last few parts such as a threaded BB from Aliexpress (ZTTO I believe).
Edit: @ Dank_ganks, please see pics :)
Cheers!
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The paintjob looks like good quality, and my decals were neatly placed.
Just a question, I have 105 brakes but no adapters for mounting (160mm disc in front, 140 in the back) - anyone knows which one specifically I need? I ordered one but it seems to be the wrong one, will wait until I get it.
That color is fantastic and good job on the decals too.
Assuming you have 105 flat mount calipers, you need these:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804777212476.html
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On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
GRAAL seems to be the component brand of S1neo. (
https://www.s1neo.com/en/detail-product/graal-wheel-45mm-disc-h45dc-dtswiss-240s/p/482)
As the new velobuild track frame is also used by s1neo, i would not be surprised if the 268 mould also was intended for them...
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On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
I guess we solved some of the velobuild mystery: the 268 is the same frame as their 699D.
I was a bit misleaded by the painjob and the searpost, so I first thought this was not the same as the velobuild. Bute then I found this picture, which shows that the S1neo is the same frame. same seatpost and even the Mavic SpeedRelease Axles are the same.
https://cycolo.com/products/s1neo-699d-frameset
Or maybe this was a first iteration of the 699D, as the current one on the website looks different (different tube shapes, downtube cutout for Front wheel): https://www.s1neo.com/en/road/699d-disc
EDIT: Well, the "current' 699D looks very close to the Speeder SC-R49D...
But the 2022 model is clearly the VBR 268: https://youtu.be/7-XRlu6W-HY?feature=shared
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
Thats how I imagine it to be... Same for the 168, as I just discovered.
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What size of hole do they recommend?
I did't ask. Not quite sure I can tell you what I used either, big enough/not too big? ;D
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Edit: @ Dank_ganks, please see pics :)
Thanks a ton for the pics - the frame looks awesome, great design!!
Guess I'll go with the "wrap it in foam and jam it in" strategy.
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
I don't know that this is an open mould, so although VB may have manufactured it for them, it likely can't be made by others using the same mould.
BTW, for those who have their frame: what shape/dimensions is the interior of the seatpost? Wondering how I'm going to mount my Di2 battery.
I just mounted my battery to the inside of the seat post using one of the standard rubber cases from Shimano. There was some wiggle room, but it ended up securing it with some foam that was covering the Di2 dongle I have in there as well.
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I also received my frame yesterday, but will probably not build it before April/May as I am waiting for the er9 to be a reliable option My frame is chameleon Silver.
For the s1neo. I went through their FB posts (reached 2019 posts) and couldn't find anything about the 699D that looks identical to vbr268.
EDIT: VBR268 clearly is the 2022 699D. YouTube Video from s1neo channel clearly displays it
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Guys, this is what open mold means lol. Everyone and their mom has some kind of SL7 variant.
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Good afternoon:
I am new to the forum and on January 8th I ordered the frame in chameleon silver color size S. Yesterday it arrived correctly packaged.
What I didn't get in the package is the cycle computer holder and the extra rear hanger, but they have already told me by email that they will send it to me tomorrow.
I must say that the paint is spectacular, it only has a small bubble on the back that will not be difficult to fix by lightly polishing.
I also have to go over the steering bearing seats and bottom bracket seats with very fine sandpaper.
Waiting to start assembly, happy with the order.
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Build is pretty much done. Not too many new parts as everything has been moved over from my VB-R-177 build.
Haven't had a chance to take it out for a long spin but general impressions so far based on a short coffee ride:
- Stiffer than the 168 and as stiff as the 177 but more aero (not sure I noticed the more aero part haha)
- Zero offset seat tube is really going to help my personal fit
- Saddle clamping system worked really well and easy to adjust. Extra fittings for carbon rail saddles was great to have included.
- Mavic Speed release style axles are going to take a little getting used to. May need a dedicated axle for the trainer to make things easier to take on and off.
- Overall no issues with the build, ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the BB area to drain water. Also had to drill out the metal FD cable stop to fit Di2 wire
- New HB-010 integrated bars that came with the frame feel much stiffer than the original ones I had with the wedge tightening system instead of standard two bolt
Just needs some bar tape and maybe some decals and should be ready.
(https://i.imgur.com/JembWZX.jpeg)
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@hazzer19 how does it ride? ie How responsive to your pedaling (stiffness)? What's the weight of your build. Have to say kudos to VB, they are now good at painting frames.
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Build is pretty much done. Not too many new parts as everything has been moved over from my VB-R-177 build.
Haven't had a chance to take it out for a long spin but general impressions so far based on a short coffee ride:
- Stiffer than the 168 and as stiff as the 177 but more aero (not sure I noticed the more aero part haha)
- Zero offset seat tube is really going to help my personal fit
- Saddle clamping system worked really well and easy to adjust. Extra fittings for carbon rail saddles was great to have included.
- Mavic Speed release style axles are going to take a little getting used to. May need a dedicated axle for the trainer to make things easier to take on and off.
- Overall no issues with the build, ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the BB area to drain water. Also had to drill out the metal FD cable stop to fit Di2 wire
- New HB-010 integrated bars that came with the frame feel much stiffer than the original ones I had with the wedge tightening system instead of standard two bolt
Just needs some bar tape and maybe some decals and should be ready.
(https://i.imgur.com/JembWZX.jpeg)
Nice build, could you please show a picture of the front derailleur di2 wiring especially the parts you drilled.
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I am almost finished with the assembly. Overall, I am very pleased with the frame. The workmanship is good as far as I can tell. I haven't ridden the bike yet, but overall it looks like the frame is stiff enough. At least it doesn't feel too wobbly in the shop. I will report back when I have ridden the bike.
Now I want to give a few more details. Tire clearance is no problem at all. The 30 Continental tires are 32mm wide on the rim, which fits perfectly.
The frame weighs almost exactly 1160 grams in size 58. The uncut fork weighs 424 grams. The cockpit weighs exactly 404 grams at 110x420 mm. The seatpost weighs 230 grams. Other accessories such as the headset topcap, headset, seatpost clamp and thru-axles add another 200 grams.
I built the frame with Ultegra Di2. The complete bike weighs 8.3 kg without the computer. That's not exceptionally light, but it's not terribly overweight either. The wheelset (Lightbycicle WR65 with Goldix 240SL) weighs 1550 grams.
The rear thru axle mount did not work for me. The thread was broken. The thru axle was also not mounted correctly. This means that after the paint job at the latest, it must have been noticed that the thru axle did not fit into the thread. Obviously nobody was interested in that. The frame was shipped anyway. This does not speak well for the quality control at Velobuild. I was promised a new thread for the thru axle. Unfortunately I have not received it yet.
The finish is purple chameleon matte. The quality of the paint is very poor. This is especially true for the durability. There is obviously no top coat. You only have to look at the paint once and there's already a flaw. I'm afraid it's not going to be very durable.
Then there's a minor problem with the top cap. It closes very flush when the handlebars are not tightened. But once you apply the correct torque, the top cap protrudes a bit to the side. This is mainly an aesthetic problem and doesn't look very good.
Now I have to make a few adjustments (like the saddle angle) before I can ride it outside. Also, the weather here in Germany is pretty bad at the moment. I also need new chainrings as the ones I have only work for 11-speed and the shifting performance is pretty bad.
Here are some pictures as a first impression. As soon as I'm outside and can take better pictures, I'll post them here.
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I think if you go with Matte paint there is never a top coat. Even for Mercedes Benz cars if you go with matte paint there isn't a top coat. Sucks about the other issues though and doesn't look super good for velobuild quality :/
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
Looks like a gravel frame. They must have mixed your order up with someone else, and they got your frame. Have you reached out to velobuild?
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Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s their 2021 gravel frame. Its a size xs too…. I sent them an email. I don’t expect to hear anything back soon since it’s lunar new year right now.
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No hurries
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@hazzer19 how does it ride? ie How responsive to your pedaling (stiffness)? What's the weight of your build. Have to say kudos to VB, they are now good at painting frames.
Rides amazing, probably my fave road build so far. Weighs in at around 7.7 Kg, so have some room to improve there (32T cassette in the back isn't helping!)
Nice build, could you please show a picture of the front derailleur di2 wiring especially the parts you drilled.
Thanks! Not sure if you can see a ton from the photo but here is the FD cable stop. I just drilled out the original hole until it was wide enough to pass the di2 wire
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Good to see these nice builds coming along, and to hear that it rides well! Can't wait to try it, although in Sweden that might need some more months...
My build is coming along too - Yesterday I routed the cables and installed the headset.
While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose. I was also smart enough to cut the front derrailleur cable too short (when steering all the way to the right, the cable got constricted by the BB..) so I will have to replace that one either way... I am planning to actually drill out the the FD cable stop hole you drilled out for Di2, but want to run the shifter hose all the way to the derailleur. Good idea?
Well, its a first build and overall it's going well ;)
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While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose.
Happened to me, too. I replaced the hose. Brakes should be reliable at all times. On my second attempt it helped me to dismount the handlebar for routing the cables. The fork was hold by the top cap only.
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Hi guys, here is my build.
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Hi guys, here is my build.
Nice Colour!
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From last year, i dont think I posted these.
Very nice frame, wants to go fast, and compliant / elegant. Wheels that deep in a cross wind in the mountains though... meh.
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From last year, i dont think I posted these.
Very nice frame, wants to go fast, and compliant / elegant. Wheels that deep in a cross wind in the mountains though... meh.
Wrong thread... -> 168
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Good to see these nice builds coming along, and to hear that it rides well! Can't wait to try it, although in Sweden that might need some more months...
My build is coming along too - Yesterday I routed the cables and installed the headset.
While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose. I was also smart enough to cut the front derrailleur cable too short (when steering all the way to the right, the cable got constricted by the BB..) so I will have to replace that one either way... I am planning to actually drill out the the FD cable stop hole you drilled out for Di2, but want to run the shifter hose all the way to the derailleur. Good idea?
Well, its a first build and overall it's going well ;)
Really nice color. What do you call this (parlemour white or something)?
I'm 178cm tall. Normal to short legs. What frame size do you recon?
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Wrong thread... -> 168
Haha, correct! they look exactly the same, didn't even realize VB had released a 2024 frame... Tasty offering, EPS moulding with a 950g frame in M, and allegedly a bit of T1000!
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Haha, correct! they look exactly the same, didn't even realize VB had released a 2024 frame... Tasty offering, EPS moulding with a 950g frame in M, and allegedly a bit of T1000!
I have ridden both the 168 and 268 now and can confidently say the 268 is a clear upgrade, primarily as it relates to stiffness in the right places. The addition of a zero offset seat post is also helping with a better fit. Still getting used to the axles.
No hurries
That silver chameleon paint job looks really nice! Really digging the matte and glossy white frames a few people have posted here as well. My first Chinese company frame from Workswell was matte white so brings back good memories.
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I have ridden both the 168 and 268 now and can confidently say the 268 is a clear upgrade, primarily as it relates to stiffness in the right places. The addition of a zero offset seat post is also helping with a better fit. Still getting used to the axles.
It's really interesting how quickly these brokers / producers are iterating. Now a frame that doesn't have EPS moulding feels ancient, 2-3 years ago it was pretty high end.
Forks are getting wider.
Holes are getting rounder, brake mounts are getting flat / faced.
C rings are iterated so headset play is no more
QC is getting better.
It's great.
Next frontier is probably weight. In the last year / months, light disc bikes are becoming the rage again, after being told weight didn't matter by the big brands.
But light weight means catastrophic failure if done wrong, or bikes that feel like noodles under heavy guys.
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
Congratulation, you received my (or better said my girlfriends) frame! Yesterday i received my parcel and it contains the correct Fork and assembly parts, but instead of the GF002 in XS with this paint sheme i´ve got an unpainted vbr 268 in size M.
Just thought lets check the vbr-268 thread if anyone posted about that and there we go ;).
Sooo... your Frame is in Austria now, where is mine?
I already reached out to VB and they responded, basically saying they f***** up because they have been very busy prior to their holidays.
They already asked if i could ship the frame elswhere (most likely to your adress^^) and that they will cover the cost.
I replied that i am of course willing to do so, if possible they shall send me a prepaid sticker which i can print out and I`ll drop it off.
The other way round, it will be more complicated if you are outside EU since the frame was delivered to me using a special method to avoid our wicked fees&taxes.
It needs to be done the same way now, otherwise i would have a lot of struggles with the customs and need to pay a fortune.
Lets see what VB responds, - send me a pm if you want to align.
kind regards,
Bernd
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@Cnasta
If you mean my colour and not jardoOo's, its a very light greenish :)
I am 182cm tall and ordered the size 56, also Chris confirmed this size. The geometry is similar to the Specialized SL7 I believe, in case you can try one?
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Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
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Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
GOOD MORNING
IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS
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Nice job! Catia? :)
Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
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Got my frame yesterday - will post pictures soon but I'm super happy with the frame.
@easyfunk I think I have the same issue with the rear thru axle insert as you - it arrived stripped and wouldn't seat. You said Chris is sending you a replacement part?
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GOOD MORNING
IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS
That's the one, thanks! So, accounting for a gap between it and the frame, ~15mm is close enough.
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Nice job! Catia? :)
FreeCAD
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Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.
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Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.
I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.
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I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.
Thats basically how its done on all fully-integrated mechanical builds. Not optimal nor hassle free, but works...
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I have built 4 velobuild frames with sensah mechanical. it works. It's a MAJOR pain, but it works. Front derailleurs tend to be the worst performers. You kind of NEED to buy brake cables that are road specific. that way the other end is smooth and slides in housing despite the shitty angles. if you have cables that you snip on one end, unless you're a soldering maestro, the end of the wire catches in sharp angles in the housing and after a while you want to burn society to the ground and go live in the woods.
I havent ridden more than c.450km on my ltwoo er9, but so far i LOVE it. it means 2 cables instead of 4 to route via the headset area, which makes it a breeze in comparison. The geekiest may be mechanical at the back, and electronic at the front. that would a frankenbuild though. 3 cables much better than 4 still. You could do mechanical disc and mechanical shift at the rear, and hydraulic and electronic at the front. You would woo the ladies with your engineering acumen. They'd be like "please take me here now". Maybe.
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I was more thinking of mechanical gear with hydraulic brakes but still 4 housing to route
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I am running a mechanical 105 with hydraulic brakes.
I just finished routing after some struggles all cables through handlebar and frame, shifting cables completely until the derraileurs. Drilled out the FD stop, and the movement of the shifting cables inside the housings feels OK - but gotta see after finishing setting that up.
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So, my build is done 8)
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Wow what paint color is that? Absolutely gorgeous!
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Thank you! It's glossy pearl white.
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Very nice! Came out clean, white is my favorite for bikes. Looking to do a similar build as I picked up 105 DI2 last year on close out. Also looking at Elite wheels seem like good value for the money.
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Maybe it will help you to decide, I own one pair of Elitewheels ENT rim brake version with 4k kilometers and no issue, so I decided to order lighter EDGE model for VB. In my opinion ENT hub sound is nicer, but weight of EDGEs wins.
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I'm also doing a 105 Di2 close-out build - split my order up into 3 orders at TPC so I could use 3 $50 off $200 codes, and ended up with a full 105 groupset for ~$450
Wheels-wise, I bought a set of UNI 50/65 (front/rear) wheels from Leon at Yuanan (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4617.0.html) - haven't ridden on them but they're really nice looking/feeling wheels and he was super great to work with. The price was absolutely right, and the wheels are lighter than my existing Cannondale Hollowgram 35s and shipped with tubeless rim tape and valves. IIRC Yuanan is the manufacturer for EliteWheels
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I'm also doing a 105 Di2 close-out build - split my order up into 3 orders at TPC so I could use 3 $50 off $200 codes, and ended up with a full 105 groupset for ~$450
A FULL Di2 group for $450? That's much less than an L-TWOO eR9 group (where you have to add chain cassete and crank). That's insane value! I paid 400+ shipping for my er9, so came out 455$ shipped, 135$ for carbon cranks that I dont trust (already broke 1 arm), 22$ per chain, and 40-50$ for c.230g cassettes. And it's pretty much impossible to get any of this materially cheaper (except the eR9 that's cheaper now). That's 657$...
Although i guess a close out sale is a function of lucky timing, and living with crank & k7 sizes you may not really want. Still, crazy deal, well done.
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I did end up having to buy the battery separately, and ended up with 175mm cranks when I wanted 172.5... but I might swap those for a magene P505 anyways.
Finished building up the bike this weekend! Feels great to ride although I do need to do some more dialing in of the brakes. Came out to 8.43 kg which was a little more than I hoped for but I'm still super happy with. Did end up needing to drill a hole in the FD cable passthrough to fit the Di2 cables through.
What i've noticed so far:
- Cable routing, especially through the bars, was much easier than I expected! Would hate to do a mech build in this bike though.
- I've never ridden a bike with carbon bars - I was super surprised by how compliant they are, especially gripping the hoods. Is this normal or should I be concerned?
- Seems like there isn't enough fiber grip in the world to keep this seat level - I smeared it all over the inside of the seatpost and cranked on the clamping bolt as tight as I felt comfortable, but it still tips around (as you can see in the photo)
- Rear Di2 cable REALLY wants to go into the gears - right now I have it taped down to the frame with some electrical tape but I'm wondering if anyone has some tips for that?
Overall I'm super happy with the bike and loving VB's "ice break" paint job!
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THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME. I SPREAD EVERYTHING WITH CARBON FIBER PASTE AND TIGHTEN UP TO 17 NEWTONS BUT THE THREAD WAS DAMAGED.
THEN I REALIZED THAT THE PARTS AND THAT AREA OF THE POST ARE MADE OF ALUMINUM SO I REMOVED ALL THE PASTE, CLEANED IT WITH DEGREASER AND TIGHTENED IT AGAIN WITH ANOTHER PROVISIONAL SCREW TO 15 NEWTONS. AT THE MOMENT THE SADDLE HAS NOT BEEN LOOSENED AGAIN, I HAVE ALSO ORDERED THE TITANIUM SCREW. REALLY ALL THE HARDWARE THEY SEND IS OF VERY POOR QUALITY.
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I'll have to give that a try. I was also noticing that my front thru-axle had come undone a bit on my test ride... but might be user error of insufficent torque.
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Recap having read the whole thread, so far, there are recurring problems with rear thru axles threads that dont work, which make the bikes unusable.
Everybody seems to hate the Mavic thru axle system and nobody understands why that's being used.
The seatpost slips despite using massive torque & carbon paste. USUALLY, people report slipping seatposts because they tighten to 5-6nm, when this bolt is usually supposed to be tightened much more. Routinely up to 12nm. FWIW, my long teng frame says 12nm on the seatpost clamp. I would be very concerned to go above that number though, so people here saying they're tightening to 15, i hope it's on the direct instruction of VB, because if that area cracks, you can bin the frame. I cracked a carbon crank arm 2 weeks ago at 6-7nm. Carbon that explodes is not a pleasant experience, as it's an instant write off.
Earlier versions didn't have a hole at the bottom of the frame for water to drain out, but this seems fixed now, and easy fix anyway. One or 2 instances of bars missing an exit hole for the housing - easy fix.
Bottom line: feels very beta still. Loose thru axles, poor threads on thru axles, slipping seatposts basically means you can't ride the bike. For seatposts, presumably, you can shim some aluminium from a can to create friction. For the TA, i have no solution and i'd be very unhappy.
Edit. At least 4 users report problems with the TA / TA area:
Thegoods
Benbenben
Deanoden
Easyfunk
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I do not share your recap of this thread. Especially the saddle clamp (not the seatpost clamp) is no deal when done right. Through axles are a problem, that's true, and I'm still waiting for the replacement
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Same. Almost no issues with mine with an early frame (I think, no hole in the BB area). I haven't had issues with the axles, just getting used to having them in the right place to take the wheels out, primarily the back, the front one is easier.
I had one instance of the saddle tilting down but hasn't happened again since I applied more torque. No issues with the seat post slipping. No issues with holes in the bars either. Overall still very happy with how it's performing so far.
(https://i.imgur.com/WZ5VfMCh.jpeg)
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Also no issues with seatpost slippage, just with the saddle tilt. Thru axles are definitely not ideal though.
Nice looking bike, hazzer!!
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
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hazzer where did you even come up with the idea for that paint job. So cool
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
Really looking forward to your review/opinions/paintjob.
Also, haven't heard of those wheels. Wondering whether they are worth € 500,00 over Elite Edge wheels in 50mm (just a small weight penalty, but a lot of extra money).
Same goes for the sadles, which seems heavier than the Ryet one. Any reason to go this route other than "because I can" (which is a good answer as well :) )
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
Can’t wait for this build up and review. I’ve been waiting for these build ups and video reviews before making my purchase.
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Really looking forward to your review/opinions/paintjob.
Also, haven't heard of those wheels. Wondering whether they are worth € 500,00 over Elite Edge wheels in 50mm (just a small weight penalty, but a lot of extra money).
Same goes for the sadles, which seems heavier than the Ryet one. Any reason to go this route other than "because I can" (which is a good answer as well :) )
My previous two VeloBuild road builds I used both Elite Drive 45D (no longer in production) and FarSports EVO 4. While the Drive 45D are light, I didn't find them particularly stiff. The EVO 4s are stiff but still use 19mm internal rims which I have long moved away from. Nepest as a brand do a lot of things right. The fit/finish of the wheels and road dynamics feel very much OEM as expected. To me they feel closer to FarSports than Elite Drive.
Now regarding saddles, I don't like the shape nor length of the Ryet saddle. I've had great success both indoors and outdoors with my Bucklos saddles, and it's only 30g heavier than my S-Works Power saddle.
I'm not really going for a full weight weenie build with the 268. But I do suspect this build to give both my Tavelo and Giant Propel a run for their money in the weight department. We should be looking at 7.0-7.1kg without pedals/power meter/computer mount.
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Can get better than nepest for less from farsports
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hazzer where did you even come up with the idea for that paint job. So cool
Thanks! I saw something online that was similar but when I submitted the design I wasn't as specific as I could have been (only half the head tube was supposed to be painted, vertically cut off) but end result has grown on me!
Lesson, if you are asking for a custom paint job be a specific as you can be otherwise they'll be guessing on the other side.
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Page 9 seems to be broken >:(
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Weird, I have the order set in reverse and pages 1 and 2 are broken for me still. If I open the site in Chrome Incognito I can see them all no problem including 9.
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Jens do you want try and delete your original post to see if fixes the broken page(s) and the ability for some to see any new updates?
As fas as uploading photos, using the attachment option or pasting an embedded link to a site like imgur.com that hosts your image should work ok.
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What would be the best approach if someone wanted this bike but with a 36 cm handlebar?
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STOP....
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...POSTING...
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...BAD...
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...OR...
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...CORRUPT...
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...PHOTOS...
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...PLEASE...
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...OR AT LEAST...
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...USE...
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11th page we go.
Maybe stop uploading incompatible images that corrupt the pages. If this is you...then perhaps use a 3rd party photo platform and simply share the URL.
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
Take a look at my 177 video at the 5:28 mark - I discuss the FSA no69 headset system. This allows you to run your own handlebar and stem combo. And this is precisely what I plan to use again for my 268.
https://youtu.be/tA6i2vBFrzE?si=o5mWWbAoCFL42EKU
FSA Vision NO.69/SRS
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
I can finally see the latest posts (page 1 for me as I have reverse order setup) but pages 2 and 3 are still down. I asked Sitar_Ned if we could delete post #122 which could be the culprit per jepa83's comments so maybe that could fix things.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
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Same here. Has anyone contacted VB about it?
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I had the same issue. To get it to work I sort of retreaded the frame by taking the through axle and forcing it in from the outside and then running it in and out a few time. VB has a flaw somewhere on this part of the frame.
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I had the same issue. To get it to work I sort of retreaded the frame by taking the through axle and forcing it in from the outside and then running it in and out a few time. VB has a flaw somewhere on this part of the frame.
I did exactly the same. Velobuild agreed to send me a replacement insert, but I did not receive it yet.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
No issues with this for me and I have used two different sets of VB rear axles and RD hangers.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
Good afternoon: For my part, no problem in that matter.
The only thing about the entire assembly that is giving me any problems is the issue of anchoring the saddle. I had an Elita One carbon saddle installed but it was giving me some discomfort so I changed it for a Prologue Scrath M5 with round rails. I have tightened it to 15N and even today when I went over a bump it moved a little. It occurred to me to use blue Loctite applied to the entire area and see how it goes.
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
maybe check the ryet aircode 3d.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005209973776.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.1391J7XXJ7XXnu&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005209973776.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.1391J7XXJ7XXnu&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra)
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Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Will be interested to hear your experience on routing on this bike
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
I'd love to see some (or: a lot) pictures of that frame/color. Thinking about the same color :) Allready sourced a Ultegra 11sp di2 groupset 2nd hand. Would make a killer bike I think (this or the Ican A40) :)
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I will definitely circle back the pictures, and can provide details on the build process. Especially on the topic of going mechanical this time.
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Good night
After 500 km with the bike, I can say that I am very satisfied.
I leave some photos of the final assembly
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Wicked @rga19071976 !
Assuming your paint color is silver chameleon, my frameset was shipped out yesterday in the same color. Hoping it delivers by end of March. I'm gonna be blinding mofos when the sun hits 8)
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Wicked @rga19071976 !
Assuming your paint color is silver chameleon, my frameset was shipped out yesterday in the same color. Hoping it delivers by end of March. I'm gonna be blinding mofos when the sun hits 8)
Right, that's the color. It's a blinding machine :D
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Hi!
Fairly close to pulling the trigger on the 268. Does anyone know if the expander plug and compression ring design is identical to the recalled one on the SL7?
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Hi!
Fairly close to pulling the trigger on the 268. Does anyone know if the expander plug and compression ring design is identical to the recalled one on the SL7?
No, its velobuilds own design. (if that's a good or a bad thing, that's up for you to judge. I used a Deda 70mm Expander and a modified compression ring from the SL8 on my VB)
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No, its velobuilds own design. (if that's a good or a bad thing, that's up for you to judge. I used a Deda 70mm Expander and a modified compression ring from the SL8 on my VB)
Thanks, so the new plastic/injection moulded compression ring for the SL8 fits in the 268?
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Thanks, so the new plastic/injection moulded compression ring for the SL8 fits in the 268?
no, does not fit.
you either gotta buy a new top headset bearing (with the same ID as the SL8) or you gotta lathe or sand down the SL8 compression ring to make it fit.
and you might also need quite a few microspacers as well.
But you can also stick with the setup that VB supplies, people don't seem to have these issues anymore.
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I dont remember on which bikes i did it, but i 3d printed some thin (c.1mm) half moon-ish spacers to go above the C ring (it was a C ring with 1 position knob sticking out) so that the 1st plastic thing sitting on top of the tube wouldn't rub on the frame. I had to do that using bars i didn't buy from whomever sold me the frame, but my point is, if that plastic / metal rubs on the frame because the C ring isn't high enough / the bearing isn't tall enough, you can get away with a basic 3d printed spacer (i did 2-3 prototypes, the whole thing probably took me 2h across design, iterating and printing), that avoids having to sand / machine / lathe the bit that sits on top of the frame.
I also used spacers on the drive side of cranksets, BB tools (tightening & extraction), saddle bottle cage mount, garmin mount for aerobars... It's a great resource to have.
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I dont remember on which bikes i did it, but i 3d printed some thin (c.1mm) half moon-ish spacers to go above the C ring (it was a C ring with 1 position knob sticking out) so that the 1st plastic thing sitting on top of the tube wouldn't rub on the frame. I had to do that using bars i didn't buy from whomever sold me the frame, but my point is, if that plastic / metal rubs on the frame because the C ring isn't high enough / the bearing isn't tall enough, you can get away with a basic 3d printed spacer (i did 2-3 prototypes, the whole thing probably took me 2h across design, iterating and printing), that avoids having to sand / machine / lathe the bit that sits on top of the frame.
I also used spacers on the drive side of cranksets, BB tools (tightening & extraction), saddle bottle cage mount, garmin mount for aerobars... It's a great resource to have.
Thanks, previous in the thread there are mentioned some FSA micro-spacers (0.25 mm) you can get in a pack of 10 for 10 EUR. Will probably use them and cut them to C-shape - and save the 3D-printer for now ;D
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My vb-r-268 in matte black size M arrived today. Will start building it in the next days. Just waiting for the disc elite edge wheelset to arrive in a week or so.
I was a bit disapointed about the frameweight thou. I expected it to be less or around 1kg. It weighs 1102g with the rear thru axle mounted (41g). But I should have a road bike considerably less than 8kg at the end.
There were people in this thread complaining about the rear thru axle threads. So I emediatly tested it. This is what I discoverd:If you loosen the rear hanger bolt a bit, the thread works perfectly well and the thru axels goes in smoothly. When the rear hanger is tighten, then it is harder for the axle to be threaded in, and it may seem that the thread is crossed. But it is actually fine. I guess the hangermount is not perfectly alinged. A flaw I can totaly live with.
I am planing to use alloy link cables (like jagwire elite link) for the internal routing of the shifting cables, because I had very good experiences with this kind of cable housings at my previous semi internal routed frame. The shifting is more accruate, they are more flexible and they are lighter than standard housings. I already checked the bend in the stem/fork region and it should be just ok. I will keep you postet on the development of that nerdy experiment.
To relicate my bike fit I bought an extra set of spacers, which velobuild sent with the frame for $ 10. Now I am using around 4cm of spacers.
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My vb-r-268 in matte black size M arrived today. Will start building it in the next days. Just waiting for the disc elite edge wheelset to arrive in a week or so.
I was a bit disapointed about the frameweight thou. I expected it to be less or around 1kg. It weighs 1102g with the rear thru axle mounted (41g). But I should have a road bike considerably less than 8kg at the end.
There were people in this thread complaining about the rear thru axle threads. So I emediatly tested it. This is what I discoverd:If you loosen the rear hanger bolt a bit, the thread works perfectly well and the thru axels goes in smoothly. When the rear hanger is tighten, then it is harder for the axle to be threaded in, and it may seem that the thread is crossed. But it is actually fine. I guess the hangermount is not perfectly alinged. A flaw I can totaly live with.
I am planing to use alloy link cables (like jagwire elite link) for the internal routing of the shifting cables, because I had very good experiences with this kind of cable housings at my previous semi internal routed frame. The shifting is more accruate, they are more flexible and they are lighter than standard housings. I already checked the bend in the stem/fork region and it should be just ok. I will keep you postet on the development of that nerdy experiment.
To relicate my bike fit I bought an extra set of spacers, which velobuild sent with the frame for $ 10. Now I am using around 4cm of spacers.
1. You plan to route 4 housings through the bars & stem using this https://jagwire.com/products/diy-cable-kits/2017road-elite-link-brake-kit? Having routed 4 VB bikes with keb-sl housing (full internal), i really dont think it's possible, so very curious to see how you manage that.
2. If i had extra spacers like that under my stem, i'd probably run an extra long plug expander to spread the forces over the widest possible area. Leverage is a thing, so if you hit a bad pothole, you're at a materially higher chance of cracking the steerer if you run tall chimneys like that. That's also going to add another sharp bend to the routing.
3. so the frame is 1060g and they advertise 950g. Did you ask if the 950 is a raw carbon weight? Primer & paint done by VB is going to add weight, idk if it adds 100g, sounds like a lot, but I'd say >50g. At which point a 50g variance is 5% of the advertised weight, i guess it's within spec? When you order rims, if it weights 460g, the seller typically says +/- 15g, and a rim is a lot less intricate than a frame.
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How are the axle-threads in the frame holding up for you guys that have had the frame for some time?
Heard of some initial problems from some users.
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Haven't had any subsequent issues with the axles (on the other hand, i haven't removed and replaced the wheel a lot).
I've noticed that the bars (VB's integrated bars) feel pretty soft. Is this to be expected on carbon bars? These are my first carbon bars and they're definitely way flexier than alloy bars I'm used to. Should I be concerned at all about this?
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I've noticed that the bars (VB's integrated bars) feel pretty soft. Is this to be expected on carbon bars? These are my first carbon bars and they're definitely way flexier than alloy bars I'm used to. Should I be concerned at all about this?
I also found my VB integrated bars to be softer than all my previous alloy bars. For me, it’s actually quite nice and comfortable and absorbs lots of road vibrations. I guess maybe it’s a problem if you like doing hard sprints on the drops but I personally like these bars (after riding with them for 18 months on a Velobuild VBR-099).
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Size 56
Silver Chameleon Paint
Frame (no FD hanger): 1079g - I'm going 1x. FD delete saves 15g
Fork (uncut): 406g
Seatpost (with saddle clamp): 228g
TOTAL: 1713g
I'm going to assume the 950g advertised weight for a size M was unpainted, and the 180g seatpost didn't include the actual saddle clamp. The 410g fork weight however is accurate. No complaints to be honest. Both paint and facing surfaces look good too.
For Reference...
Giant Propel Size ML
Frame: 1071g (both hangers)
Fork: 361g
Seatpost: 198g
Total: 1630g
Tavelo Attack size L
Frame: 1041g
Fork: 443g
Seatpost: 156g
Total: 1640g
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Do none of you want to believe that the weight specs are simply lying
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Do none of you want to believe that the weight specs are simply lying
Yeah, it's often like that. Why the hell would I be interested in the unpainted weight?
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Yeah, it's often like that. Why the hell would I be interested in the unpainted weight?
Because matte paint is lighter than gloss, that a single coat is lighter than several colours with decals? Factories either advertise unpainted weight, or matte black weight.
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Good afternoon: For my part, no problem in that matter.
The only thing about the entire assembly that is giving me any problems is the issue of anchoring the saddle. I had an Elita One carbon saddle installed but it was giving me some discomfort so I changed it for a Prologue Scrath M5 with round rails. I have tightened it to 15N and even today when I went over a bump it moved a little. It occurred to me to use blue Loctite applied to the entire area and see how it goes.
Blue loctite is for threaded applications. Will not help you with this.
Generally carbon saddle rails are 7x9mm dimension and steel are 7x7mm so your seatpost saddle clamp might not be sized right for your saddle rails. Some seatpost saddle clamps are specific to 7x9mm or 7x7mm and some are not.
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1. You plan to route 4 housings through the bars & stem using this https://jagwire.com/products/diy-cable-kits/2017road-elite-link-brake-kit? Having routed 4 VB bikes with keb-sl housing (full internal), i really dont think it's possible, so very curious to see how you manage that.
2. If i had extra spacers like that under my stem, i'd probably run an extra long plug expander to spread the forces over the widest possible area. Leverage is a thing, so if you hit a bad pothole, you're at a materially higher chance of cracking the steerer if you run tall chimneys like that. That's also going to add another sharp bend to the routing.
3. so the frame is 1060g and they advertise 950g. Did you ask if the 950 is a raw carbon weight? Primer & paint done by VB is going to add weight, idk if it adds 100g, sounds like a lot, but I'd say >50g. At which point a 50g variance is 5% of the advertised weight, i guess it's within spec? When you order rims, if it weights 460g, the seller typically says +/- 15g, and a rim is a lot less intricate than a frame.
My built is finally finished. At the end I opted for only twoo of largest spcers, one from my extra spacer kit (I know, its the same hight, but less hassle).
When I tried to assemble the handlebar with the 4 cables I quickly gave up the idea of using my used link cables. The thight space in the handlebar lead to gaps between the links, so I ripped it out and used the jagwire road kits instead.
I don't like how velobuild routed the cables underneath the stem. They dont run internally, inside the stem, but underneath of it in a canal. So there is a even tighter bend between the fork and the handlebar. I even had dificulties running the inner cables through the housing when reaching the bend. They got stuck, and I had to loosen the handlebar again.
It would have been better if the cables run inside the stem. They would have more space for the a bend with a biger radius.
It was a big hassle, but at the end everything is working well.
7,8 kg with Sensah Empire pro, onirii/iiipro cable/hydro disc brakes and elite edge wheels.
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Very nice, well done! let us know after a few thousand kms how the whole thing feels.
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
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My built is finally finished. At the end I opted for only twoo of largest spcers, one from my extra spacer kit (I know, its the same hight, but less hassle).
When I tried to assemble the handlebar with the 4 cables I quickly gave up the idea of using my used link cables. The thight space in the handlebar lead to gaps between the links, so I ripped it out and used the jagwire road kits instead.
I don't like how velobuild routed the cables underneath the stem. They dont run internally, inside the stem, but underneath of it in a canal. So there is a even tighter bend between the fork and the handlebar. I even had dificulties running the inner cables through the housing when reaching the bend. They got stuck, and I had to loosen the handlebar again.
It would have been better if the cables run inside the stem. They would have more space for the a bend with a biger radius.
It was a big hassle, but at the end everything is working well.
7,8 kg with Sensah Empire pro, onirii/iiipro cable/hydro disc brakes and elite edge wheels.
Looking good. Just ordered two 268's and two pair of Elite Edge Wheels as well.
How many spacers did is included with the frame? Did you have to purchase extra spacers?
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
Thnx Pat! Not a great fan of the color, but really looking forward to your build, especially regarding the routing of the cables around the headtube/fork.
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
As someone who currently runs a 140 stem on his setup and wants to see that fsa 69 headset on this frame, get to work! i need to see if it looks good or not ;)
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Prepared to be disappointed ;D
I run a 140mm -12 stem on my Allez Sprint, paired with a set of carbon bars from Prime Bike Components (76mm reach).
The problem with running the FSA no69 headset system in this particular build is I can't get my overall stack height low enough, and I don't have a spare 140 stem. Only a 130mm -17. Thankfully I bought a spare set of Prime bars before they stopped shipping to the USA.
Currently my bar selection is an integrated cockpit I had from a pervious TanTan build. 120mm stem, 84mm reach, -10 angle. Brands grossly mis-measure the stem length on their integrated cockpits. From the compression cap bolt to the center point on the top, rather than to the imaginary stem faceplate. Essentially the stem on a 120mm integrated cockpit is more like the equivalent of a 130/135mm length traditional stem.
So with a bar reach of 84mm, an effectively 135mm length stem, and the fact I don't really need spacers going this route, the integrated cockpit will get me much closer to mimicking my Allez Sprint than a separate 140mm stem/bar FSA 69 combo.
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Which Di2-battery holder fits the frame? A SL7-compatible one like this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005849437833.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2c9f8dkD8dkDWh&algo_pvid=105aa6db-5372-4081-a393-f7d1b7678b9e&algo_exp_id=105aa6db-5372-4081-a393-f7d1b7678b9e-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2142.11%2126.95%21%21%2142.11%2126.95%21%402101ef7017121542823771825ee421%2112000034567850411%21sea%21DK%21184435219%21&curPageLogUid=pRdUel7OqO7Y&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Good night
After 500 km with the bike, I can say that I am very satisfied.
I leave some photos of the final assembly
What size tires are you running?
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Prepared to be disappointed ;D
I run a 140mm -12 stem on my Allez Sprint, paired with a set of carbon bars from Prime Bike Components (76mm reach).
The problem with running the FSA no69 headset system in this particular build is I can't get my overall stack height low enough, and I don't have a spare 140 stem. Only a 130mm -17. Thankfully I bought a spare set of Prime bars before they stopped shipping to the USA.
Currently my bar selection is an integrated cockpit I had from a pervious TanTan build. 120mm stem, 84mm reach, -10 angle. Brands grossly mis-measure the stem length on their integrated cockpits. From the compression cap bolt to the center point on the top, rather than to the imaginary stem faceplate. Essentially the stem on a 120mm integrated cockpit is more like the equivalent of a 130/135mm length traditional stem.
So with a bar reach of 84mm, an effectively 135mm length stem, and the fact I don't really need spacers going this route, the integrated cockpit will get me much closer to mimicking my Allez Sprint than a separate 140mm stem/bar FSA 69 combo.
I got another 140 -6 Zipp for you, but it isn't the prettiest ;)
I really want to keep the bars/stem there own thing, exactly for the reasons you mentioned! Can we at least get a mock up with that setup!? For some reason this is very important to me lol
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Thoughts? Will it be possible to jam mechanical hydraulic Sensah or Ltwoo in this frame.... just a pain in the rear to route but ok after that or not possible at all.
Just about to pull the trigger on this frame or the lcr0x-d (timemachine copy) and was going to go ER9 but worried about all the issues.
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Thoughts? Will it be possible to jam mechanical hydraulic Sensah or Ltwoo in this frame.... just a pain in the rear to route but ok after that or not possible at all.
Just about to pull the trigger on this frame or the lcr0x-d (timemachine copy) and was going to go ER9 but worried about all the issues.
i've built a VB168 with Sensah (4 hoses), the 268 is the same infrastructure, so yes you can run mechanical. It's a major, major pain though, and the FD shifting will probably suck.
I've installed 5 er9 groups, they're wonderful. The app is awesome, adjustments are much easier than mechanical (especially FD, i hate mechanical FD adjustments). Together, we've only put 3-3.5k km on them though, so they might turn to shit, although i dont see why they would.
I really liked the 168, the 268 should only be better. I would do er9 on 268 with nice wheels (not less than 500-650$ range before shipping), gp5000 tyres, and you will have a wonderful bike.
On the lcr0x-d, it's a bit old now; i wouldnt buy a bike that maxes out at 28C, and T700 is on the ghetto side now.
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i've built a VB168 with Sensah (4 hoses), the 268 is the same infrastructure, so yes you can run mechanical. It's a major, major pain though, and the FD shifting will probably suck.
I've installed 5 er9 groups, they're wonderful. The app is awesome, adjustments are much easier than mechanical (especially FD, i hate mechanical FD adjustments). Together, we've only put 3-3.5k km on them though, so they might turn to shit, although i dont see why they would.
I really liked the 168, the 268 should only be better. I would do er9 on 268 with nice wheels (not less than 500-650$ range before shipping), gp5000 tyres, and you will have a wonderful bike.
On the lcr0x-d, it's a bit old now; i wouldnt buy a bike that maxes out at 28C, and T700 is on the ghetto side now.
Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
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Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
Sounds like a nice build! Just ordered two frames. Have bought EliteWheels Edge Ultralight 50 mm (21 mm internal, 28 mm external) from AliExpress for one of the frames and actually bought their Edge Gravel 45 mm wheel set (462 USD with discount code when I ordered) for the other frame as their dimensions regarding internal (24 mm) and external width (31 mm) rim width is more progressive and comparable to ENVE SES 4.5 (25/32 mm) and Reserve 40/44 (25/33-31 mm). Will pair both with GP 5000 28 mm. They will probably measure up around 30 mm on the gravel wheel set. Expecting to set both bikes up with 105 Di2 as the compared prices of the ERX/ER9 is not that much lower when shipped to my country (Denmark) with taxes - when you add the cost of crankset, chain, cassette and rotors.
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Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
We're here to help!
If you want to be at the forefront of aerodynamics, technology, life, the universe and everything, i suggest the 34mm rims in 58 from Peter cycles (look up his contact on the forum, it's like petercycles@something). I bought 5 such wheelsets from him last year. It then means that conti gp5000 in 32C is just under 32mm, so aero wise, your rim is like 105pc of the tyre, and you can impress the ladies with your bro knowledge of aerodynamics. They will cost you <600usd. Alternatively, not quite as wide, look up yuanan on the forum, they're the OEM for Elite wheels and you can customise anything you want. Ask Leon for his rim collection in pdf, he has a 31mm wide 54mm deep ultralight rim that will also be within budget. My sales rep from far sports is on maternity leave. I suggest pillar wing 20 spokes, cheaper than Spain CX ray, and according to people smarter than me, and assuming I understood correctly, they're just as good if not better. If you ask for no holes in the rim bed, you can skip rim tape and save some weight and make your life easier.
Have fun
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Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
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I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
To add to that, I got the same wheelset but with DT Swiss 350 hubs instead (849 USD in total) and they've been excellent. 1396g for 50mm deep, no internal holes made tubeless setup extremely easy.
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We're here to help!
If you want to be at the forefront of aerodynamics, technology, life, the universe and everything, i suggest the 34mm rims in 58 from Peter cycles (look up his contact on the forum, it's like petercycles@something). I bought 5 such wheelsets from him last year. It then means that conti gp5000 in 32C is just under 32mm, so aero wise, your rim is like 105pc of the tyre, and you can impress the ladies with your bro knowledge of aerodynamics. They will cost you <600usd. Alternatively, not quite as wide, look up yuanan on the forum, they're the OEM for Elite wheels and you can customise anything you want. Ask Leon for his rim collection in pdf, he has a 31mm wide 54mm deep ultralight rim that will also be within budget. My sales rep from far sports is on maternity leave. I suggest pillar wing 20 spokes, cheaper than Spain CX ray, and according to people smarter than me, and assuming I understood correctly, they're just as good if not better. If you ask for no holes in the rim bed, you can skip rim tape and save some weight and make your life easier.
Have fun
Excellent, thanks. I'm going to contact both today and see what they have, but I definitely like the idea of the 58s. Does anyone know if the 268 frame can take 32's? I assume that there will be less bulbing, so it is closer to a true 32. Im 85kg. If I was going with Yuanan, would the 20 spokes be sufficient for my heavy ass?
To be fair, I couldn't care less about the weight these days (aiming for only sub 9kg). I'm motivated to go out.
Just got through the first round of orders on Ali last night between the choice sale and codes build should come in just a tad under $2000.
I swore years ago I'd never build another bike, but coming back to cycling and seeing the ridiculous prices (the last time I was in was pre-covid), it finally feels like we are getting to a good point, especially due to now having a dedicated forum making it easier to weed out the good from the bad. 268 seems to tick many many boxes when combined with a wireless group, especially built on the base of the 168.
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Sounds like a nice build! Just ordered two frames. Have bought EliteWheels Edge Ultralight 50 mm (21 mm internal, 28 mm external) from AliExpress for one of the frames and actually bought their Edge Gravel 45 mm wheel set (462 USD with discount code when I ordered) for the other frame as their dimensions regarding internal (24 mm) and external width (31 mm) rim width is more progressive and comparable to ENVE SES 4.5 (25/32 mm) and Reserve 40/44 (25/33-31 mm). Will pair both with GP 5000 28 mm. They will probably measure up around 30 mm on the gravel wheel set. Expecting to set both bikes up with 105 Di2 as the compared prices of the ERX/ER9 is not that much lower when shipped to my country (Denmark) with taxes - when you add the cost of crankset, chain, cassette and rotors.
Good lord, i got the Ltwoo ER9 for $385 last night UK 105 di2 would have done me for almost a grand. if it was closer here I would also have gone the 105 . Will take a look at those wheels too didn't know about the edge that price is excellent on the Gravel.
I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
I had farsports in the past and nothing but good things to say about them, didn't realise the gravel rims would work on the road frames but this is interesting I think id go the same setup just with gloss finish. Thanks for the rec.
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Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
I got them during the 11.11 sales, but I have a set of Farsports Hypers with 24int/30ext, 58 depth, with carbon spokes for $700. Weight is 1300g. Just mounted up some GP5000 S 28/30 that measure 29.5/31.3 inflated. I'm super happy with them.
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Good lord, i got the Ltwoo ER9 for $385 last night UK 105 di2 would have done me for almost a grand. if it was closer here I would also have gone the 105 . Will take a look at those wheels too didn't know about the edge that price is excellent on the Gravel.
That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD including crankset, cassette, chain and rotors.
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That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD including crankset, cassette, chain and rotors.
Yeah, some people here have voodoo skills when it comes to finding deals on groupsets. Don't spend 650$ on the eR9, i can't really tell you how, but people are spending less than that. I paid 455 for mine last year.
I got them during the 11.11 sales, but I have a set of Farsports Hypers with 24int/30ext, 58 depth, with carbon spokes for $700. Weight is 1300g. Just mounted up some GP5000 S 28/30 that measure 29.5/31.3 inflated. I'm super happy with them.
Shipping included? Where do you live?
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That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD, including crankset, cassette, chain, and rotors.
Yeh i found it on a shop called 80 Designer Store. they had an on page coupon plus the ali homepage had another code that worked and brought it down. It was a nightmare navigating ali and prices jumped around as I'm out my country.
Def having the crank inc with the Di2 would bring it closer, but as I needed a power meter anyway, I offset that with the Magene power crank, 2 Passquest chainrings for 58 USD, found the 105 cassette on Merlin for 40 (GBP) + ZTTO bb86 + battery bung + rotors... So i think I'm in for about 800 total on the drivetrain side so it does add up. Would have enjoyed cost benefits mechanical but its just funny having shoved it through handlebars in the past that I'm willing to not do it again is worth a few hundred extra haha
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Does anyone know if the 268 frame can take 32's?
Im 85kg. If I was going with Yuanan, would the 20 spokes be sufficient for my heavy ass?
The VB 268 clearly says it takes 32C. The only new frame i can think of that doesn't take 32C is the SP cycle 25 SL something, only takes 30C, and i'm unhappy about that.
If road, then 20 spokes should be fine. If gravel, maybe ask Yuanan, but if steel spokes, then maybe go more conservative and take 24? Yuanan does 20/20 on carbon spokes.
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The VB 268 clearly says it takes 32C. The only new frame i can think of that doesn't take 32C is the SP cycle 25 SL something, only takes 30C, and i'm unhappy about that.
If road, then 20 spokes should be fine. If gravel, maybe ask Yuanan, but if steel spokes, then maybe go more conservative and take 24? Yuanan does 20/20 on carbon spokes.
Cheers Serge, have contacted Yaunan and Peter just waiting on the final proposals. Liking the look of the Yuanan.... everything else has been ordered was going to build it all myself but will just spend the little extra for a builder to get it all dialed in asap when everything gets here :)
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Hello,
just finished my build.
At first I wanted to build my bike around Hygge Model S frame. So I started to look for information about this frame and found this forum. After reading this forum and watching Pattys videos I decided to go for Velobuild VB-268.
I choose painted variant. Frame showed 1040 g on scales in size 58. I didn't waight rest of the stuff (fork, seat post and integrated handlebar).
I build my bike with 12sp Ultegra Di2 and Elite Edge wheels. Whole bike came out 8,2 kgs redy to ride with pedals, bottle cages and computer mount. I saw bikes weighing 7,8 kg on this thread. I don't know how you manage to achieve a weight of less than 8 kg. Any advices on how to get the weight down?
Building a bike was pretty straight forward except brakes - I can't properly align calipersto get rid of rubbing.
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Sounds like brake mounts aren't properly faced
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225g cassette, tpu tubes, carbon crankset, and weighing without pedals. The holy trinity of weight saving. Yes, I listed 4 items. My bike is 7.5 without pedals with deeper and wider rims. Ah, a 3d printed carbon saddle weighs 160g and costs 50usd. The cassette is also 50 USD. The carbon crankset is 130-200usd. Tpu tubes are under five bucks each.
Nice bike! The brake rub is a dark art. Ride a bit and re align. After a couple of rides stuff tends to fall into place (assuming you use the brakes, ie elevation).
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Size 56
-Nepest Maui 45 (1282g/54t)
-SRAM Force eTap 1x
-Pass Quest 50t Chainring
-Quarq/SRAM Spider PM
-Nova Ride OSPW
-Cybrei Ceramic BB86 DUB
-Continental GP5000 28c
-Ride Now TPU Tubes (36g)
-Carbon Saddle (102g)
-Look Keo Blade Ceramic Pedals
-Arundel Gecko Bar Tape
-Cyclowax PreWaxed Chain
7.2kg / 7.6kg with everything
Only ridden around the block for photos. Rear caliper mount wasn't faced properly, but everything else was easy to build.
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Nice bokeh shots of a beautiful bike!
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Hello,
just finished my build.
At first I wanted to build my bike around Hygge Model S frame. So I started to look for information about this frame and found this forum. After reading this forum and watching Pattys videos I decided to go for Velobuild VB-268.
I choose painted variant. Frame showed 1040 g on scales in size 58. I didn't waight rest of the stuff (fork, seat post and integrated handlebar).
I build my bike with 12sp Ultegra Di2 and Elite Edge wheels. Whole bike came out 8,2 kgs redy to ride with pedals, bottle cages and computer mount. I saw bikes weighing 7,8 kg on this thread. I don't know how you manage to achieve a weight of less than 8 kg. Any advices on how to get the weight down?
Building a bike was pretty straight forward except brakes - I can't properly align calipersto get rid of rubbing.
Nice build! How did you mount the Di2-battery in the seatpost?
TPU tubes and a cheap 3D printed mesh saddle would probably bring you down 200-250g in total.
Just type "Ryet 3D carbon saddle" in AliExpress, just bought the 115g Pro Stealth II knockoff.
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Nice build! How did you mount the Di2-battery in the seatpost?
TPU tubes and a cheap 3D printed mesh saddle would probably bring you down 200-250g in total.
Just type "Ryet 3D carbon saddle" in AliExpress, just bought the 115g Pro Stealth II knockoff.
I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
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I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
Thanks. I just purchased a battery-holder for the SL7 from "SHOUTAI BIKE Store" on AlieExpress (27 USD). I will keep you posted if it works out, but probably not going to receive the frame until late may.
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First impression video is live.
My VeloBuild 268 Is FINISHED - First Ride Impressions
https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR
Also, I've had some problems with random creaking. Initially I thought it was the saddle rail clamp. Then the cables being routed into the headset. And finally the bottom bracket. Nope. It was the seatpost clamp. I torqued the clamp a little more than I usually do (7nm instead of 5nm) and it was still creaking. A lot. The solution was adding a bit of electrical tape around seat post clamp where the clamp seats into the frame, and adding another strip of tape along the area of the seatpost that contacts the clamp. Problem solved.
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In your Video you said, that there is a significant difference between this frame and a higher priced frame.
As someone who rides his Scott CR1 in the last 14 years and doesn’t ride a lot of different road bikes, I can not imagine what the difference is. Would it be possible to elaborate this?
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In your Video you said, that there is a significant difference between this frame and a higher priced frame.
As someone who rides his Scott CR1 in the last 14 years and doesn’t ride a lot of different road bikes, I can not imagine what the difference is. Would it be possible to elaborate this?
For clarity, are you saying you cannot imagine the differences because there aren't any? Or because you have ridden the same bike for 14 years?
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In your Video you said, that there is a significant difference between this frame and a higher priced frame.
As someone who rides his Scott CR1 in the last 14 years and doesn’t ride a lot of different road bikes, I can not imagine what the difference is. Would it be possible to elaborate this?
There is no standardization in testing here. He compares bike ABC with different groupsets, bars, and wheels (incl tyres type, size, wheel depth, spoke type) plus a whole bunch of variables with what looks to be minimal testing time (first impressions). Unless someone sets up bikes with exactly the same components and A/B tests them back to back in set conditions, then isolating and commenting on the frame's "performance" would be mighty difficult.
The observations on geometry, customer service, and finishing are useful, however. The bike seems really nice, and it is good to see Velo has been working on their customer service. I was really impressed with the presale on my order; every question was answered in a friendly and timely manner. Having dealt with many in the past (Ican, Light, Yishun etc) this is the best I have seen any of them do in presales bar Yoleo) So far so good.
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I can not imagine them because I have not riden different frames in the last years.
There was a huge difference going from aluminium to the CR1, somehow stiffer yet more compliant.
I am curious if the 268 and a different frame would be another wow for me or if I should safe for a more expensive frame. Test rides would be the best way to explore this but that’s not so easy.
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Build done, except for missing bar tape. Er9, Magene p505, edge 45mm. Size 58 comes at 8.05 kg as you see it on the picture. Test ride is next.
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There is no standardization in testing here. He compares bike ABC with different groupsets, bars, and wheels (incl tyres type, size, wheel depth, spoke type) plus a whole bunch of variables with what looks to be minimal testing time (first impressions). Unless someone sets up bikes with exactly the same components and A/B tests them back to back in set conditions, then isolating and commenting on the frame's "performance" would be mighty difficult.
Correct. First impression video and then long-term video per usual. Even if I were to conduct standardized test, I would get called out for doing "bro science" as other YouTuber's have. Thankfully the support of this very forum over the years is what allows me to continue and make content. I'm very grateful.
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Build done, except for missing bar tape. Er9, Magene p505, edge 45mm. Size 58 comes at 8.05 kg as you see it on the picture. Test ride is next.
What a beauty, really gorgeous looking bike.
How was mounting the calipers? Well faced? Also gone er9 on mine, you use the included adapters or did you need to buy a separate set?
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Correct. First impression video and then long-term video per usual. Even if I were to conduct standardized test, I would get called out for doing "bro science" as other YouTuber's have. Thankfully the support of this very forum over the years is what allows me to continue and make content. I'm very grateful.
Using the same wheels, could you do a NorCal kind of video on a loop you know well, swapping 2 or 3 bikes? You have to use the same wheels for any credible kind of comparison. Your times would be interesting, but equally interesting would be your impression.
I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame.
I'd like to be proven wrong, because I can afford to pay 1500 for a frame, or 5000 for that matter, but i care about relative value.
Last, i saw you have a colnago video, any chance you would test ride that with your own wheels for comparison?
Colnago Vs velobuild video would break the internet :D
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I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame.
Well said.
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Norcal style "aero testing" is a waste of time
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Norcal style "aero testing" is a waste of time
Very constructive comment, i guess you didn't pick your username randomly.
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
There should not be any wheel compatibility problems with Mavic Speedrelease as the axle dimensions are equal to normal thru axles. That said I was very close to getting the 168 in stead just to get rid of it.
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What a beauty, really gorgeous looking bike.
How was mounting the calipers? Well faced? Also gone er9 on mine, you use the included adapters or did you need to buy a separate set?
Thank you! I used the adapters that came with the er9. 140mm rear. That might be why I don't have clearance issues. However, no space on that frame to tighten/loosen the rear caliper to bracket bolt for er9. Once it's on the frame, I can only access the lower bolt. That was enough for me to get proper alignment.
No rubbing on brakes. I managed to align the calipers without any further actions on the frame.
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Using the same wheels, could you do a NorCal kind of video on a loop you know well, swapping 2 or 3 bikes? You have to use the same wheels for any credible kind of comparison. Your times would be interesting, but equally interesting would be your impression.
I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame.
I'd like to be proven wrong, because I can afford to pay 1500 for a frame, or 5000 for that matter, but i care about relative value.
Last, i saw you have a colnago video, any chance you would test ride that with your own wheels for comparison?
Colnago Vs velobuild video would break the internet :D
Based on the hundreds of messages I received over the years, the typical viewer of my channel isn't looking for VeloBuild to be an equal alternative to one of the major brands. What they want is assurance their money won't be stolen, and that their collarbones won't be broken from a random catastrophic failure. Basically is the frame good enough all things considered. I try to keep my videos light-hearted and sensible. Save engineering and race opinions for the engineers and racers.
Confirmation bias and cognitive dissonance is human nature. Whether VeloBuild or Specialized, we all want to believe we've made the best purchase. No harm in that.
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Very constructive comment, i guess you didn't pick your username randomly.
I've explained how it's bad like 5 times, cba for a 6th so just look at peak torque or dan bigham with ineos
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I don't really get worked up by "testing" that norcal does. He doesnt make scientific claims and seems to just be making videos about the testing that he does to try and decide what equipment he is going to run. He even says stuff like "i think i get better traction over crappy roads on wider tires and therefore for my riding ____ is the best for me." Is that theoretically valid argument? No. Grip on an ideal surface is only a function of normal force and CRR, contact patch has nothing to do with it. In the real world is he right? Maybe?
Reality is that this stuff is really complicated and trying to create repeatable results that are distinct enough to make an unqualified claim is hard even with better experimental design and better instrumentation. You hear that from Peak Torque now too in the way he discusses results. Its a change from a few years ago despite his experimental design and instrumentation being among the best of the popular you tubers.
This is a very long winded way of saying that I think experiences are still worth sharing and discussing even if they aren't "scientific" as long as you acknowledge the limitations of your insights.
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Based on the hundreds of messages I received over the years, the typical viewer of my channel isn't looking for VeloBuild to be an equal alternative to one of the major brands. What they want is assurance their money won't be stolen, and that their collarbones won't be broken from a random catastrophic failure. Basically is the frame good enough all things considered. I try to keep my videos light-hearted and sensible. Save engineering and race opinions for the engineers and racers.
Confirmation bias and cognitive dissonance is human nature. Whether VeloBuild or Specialized, we all want to believe we've made the best purchase. No harm in that.
9:10 in the video - "If you are expecting a $500 frame to compete with a 1000-1500 dollar frameset" Why not? As serge points out Latex moulding, t800/t1000 build up. Evolution of a frame that was well regarded to be punching above its price point anyway.
"If you're looking for a frameset to compete with a winspace or Yoleo, this is not it." Why not? In what regard and how do you know on your first ride?
Section at 9.46: " How does it feel in relation to 168 and 177?" Your builds are completely different, with too many non-standardized parts to differentiate between the frames. Esp on the 68, which is essentially the same geometry
"It's def stiffer than 168." Maybe so with the layup and tube size changes but again different bars, wheels, etc
"More refined" Again, different wheels, bars, tyres
On constructive note, I like the sections with how the build goes, the ordering process, the finishing quality, the service etc that's all really useful and as you say useful in letting people know that these companies are producing very good products.
The non-committal reviewer speak "caveatinging" dubious statements is a huge minus in the vids though.
I don't know what the solution is, honestly; many many people are seeing through all these BS cycle reviews at this point, they are sick and tired of it. These channels are kind of at a crossroads (GCN even seems to be completely swerving reviewing bikes at this point). Your going to get smashed for being to positive or negative or being to safe especially with the current statements and methodology but I and I doubt anyone else is accusing you of shilling like some of the others. For me I'd be happy to just watch you showcase of these builds, let us know the ordering process, the issues, the finishing, comfort (position geometry) and build etc The builds look beautiful in your vids and the filming and sound is also great.
Frames are the trickiest but don't stop featuring them, i don't think anyone expects you to set up the frames with exact same components and A/B test them, your not a science based tester or someone who pretends to be so and its def not practical for a small channel to build bikes that ways (sucks the fun right out of builds). For frames hold off on the unquantifiable statements I highlighted above and more on that showcase of the product or comment on "this build" and caveat it with stiffness, aero etc is an amalgamation of the parts. For wheels, tyres, bars, tape, seats etc they can be popped on and off one designated test bike to provide a more standardised testing platform with more objective observations which I would enjoy hearing.
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Thanks for the support yall. I appreciate the input over the years.
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I think that learning if the price is worth the headache is way more important for these bikes than aero testing or whatever and you do a pretty great job of that
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
Some people had similar problems with the 168 (se the post on the 168-thread from september 16, 2023) - but the solution was to add a microspacer (1 mm perhaps) between the frame and lowest spacer (the one that fits the frame and also comes painted as the frame), to get a better compression. I think the problem may be that the spacer touches the frame more than the bearing and elevating it 1 mm from the frame solves that.
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
so far so good for me. I have the two axles on my 268 and one extra that lives on the trainer for ease. The front comes on and off really easy and quick. The back is also not bad but I find that I need to pull it out a bit after it finished unthreading to get it off but no big deal. Highly recommend getting a spare for the trainer as I personally wouldn't like having to pull the whole thing in and out to mount to a trainer as it takes a bit of push to insert the axle for the first time but easy once it's set.
First impression video is live.
My VeloBuild 268 Is FINISHED - First Ride Impressions
https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR (https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR)
Awesome build and videos as usual Patty!
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.
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There should not be any wheel compatibility problems with Mavic Speedrelease as the axle dimensions are equal to normal thru axles. That said I was very close to getting the 168 in stead just to get rid of it.
I was reading that if a wheelset that was 12mm and 15mm compatible (by changing the end cap) then the Speed release might be an issue but maybe that is less common of an issue for road wheels.
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I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.
Why the SL7 clone? What's the functional difference between a SL7 clone (-+25usd) and a cheap, long expander like this one (3usd, 90mm long) (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S1a84d8b94cf74450b935bde78cfbd202i.png)
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I'm no expert in mechanics. But the expanding mechanism is obviously different.
More important is my practical experience with both. The one you posted, did not work with my bike (carbon paste and up to 10nm). The specialized replica just worked. I had good experience with the normal original specialized expander, so I went this route having in mind that some extra stability could not do any harm.
There may be other options that work fine too. Just reflecting on my own personal experience with my bike here.
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I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore.
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.
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I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore.
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.
Have you seen improvements following adding fiber paste? I think that to roughen the inner surface could help get traction.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
people have had success fixing slipping seat posts with fiberglass cloth (in roll format). I think I'd try a bit of duct tape on that rail, the kind that has some cloth waved through. 9nm sounds right, idk if i'd want to go much higher.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
This clamp needs high torque. 12-15 NM are needed in my experience (own risk, I do not have official advise from VB). But you have to carefully align the rails with the clamp before. The clamps are full metal, so no worries here. Rails are fully carbon, so no big worries here, too.
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I've reached VB for torque specs.
That's what I get:
Seatpost mount 5.5Nm
Saddle rails clamp 8.0Nm
Handlebar/stem bolts 5.0Nm
Expander plug 8.0Nm
Computer mount 3.0Nm
Brake caliper mounts 5.0Nm front and 8.0Nm Rear
I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
I was asked if I needed a seat clamp for round (aluminium/steel/titanium) or oval (carbon) seat rails, maybe you got the "wrong" one?
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I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.
Here are my steps, assuming after a fresh and proper brake bleed:
Step 1: Re-seat/Recess the pistons fully back into the caliper. Very important step.
Step 2: Loosen the caliper bolts.
Step 3: Firmly engage the brake to the rotor. I usually squeeze about 4-5 times to fully engage the pistons.
Step 4: Torque calipers bolts while brakes are engaged. Release brakes.
Step 5: Spin the wheel and inspect any rotor imbalances or brake rub. A white strip of paper behind the caliper really helps.
Step 6: Slightly loosen the caliper bolts and use metal shim.
Step 7: If that doesn't work you can also use a very thin plastic/paper one sided shim on either side of the rotor. Rotor shims can also be helpful if the wheel hub in general is too far offset/off-center at either side.
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Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?
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Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?
That metal lip of the plug is going to sit at the top of the steerer column. You have to cut that steerer so that there's space to compress the whole system. A few mm more won't make a difference, but measure twice cut once, ofc, you do want the stem to clamp on the steerer and not half void...
If that's unclear (it used to be unclear to me), there are YouTube videos that explain everything.
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Just did my first ride with the 268, and it feels great. I barely feel side winds (also because of the 38mm depth wheels), which is lovely.
Compared to my speeder bike, it feels a lot more stable and comfortable (heavily dictated by the spacers and less aggressive geometry).
In terms of building obstacles, there were no true issues, although I did have to drill the FD guide in the frame, so my shifting cable would fit.
Will get back after I did more rides with the bike.
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Clean build, thanks for posting! your saddle is tilted funny and your saddle bag is an eye sore though :p
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Clean build, thanks for posting! your saddle is tilted funny and your saddle bag is an eye sore though :p
I actually stopped to change my saddle angle, which on the pictures indeed looks weird. Sorry about the saddlebag; learned it the hard way to have some additional gear with me at all times.
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Anyone measure how much clearance they have with a 32c tire? If this is gonna be my do it all frame, fitting a 35mm tire is essential for me.
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Build done, except for missing bar tape. Er9, Magene p505, edge 45mm. Size 58 comes at 8.05 kg as you see it on the picture. Test ride is next.
Hello can I ask you what are your height in order to order a frame?
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Just did my first ride with the 268, and it feels great.
Clean build, looks really nice! Just wanted to comment on your saddle position as well, then saw that it was already discussed :D
Also what's that thing on your back wheels spoke?
Thinking about getting myself a 268 frame as well. What's the color of yours again? Some silky white?
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Clean build, looks really nice! Just wanted to comment on your saddle position as well, then saw that it was already discussed :D
Also what's that thing on your back wheels spoke?
Thinking about getting myself a 268 frame as well. What's the color of yours again? Some silky white?
It is a sticker I have not removed from the wheel. Thanks for pointing that out. The color is Pearl White (Glossy). You can find pictures of the identical frame earlier in this topic.
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Yeah, just saw those. Was actually looking for a colorful option but that silky look is really growing on me :D
So many choices ...
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Yeah, just saw those. Was actually looking for a colorful option but that silky look is really growing on me :D
So many choices ...
My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.
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Sounds fun, got any pics of those?
And yeah, I totally get you. I'm just a sucker for colors. Resale value is a good point as well but it isn't a high priority for me.
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Sounds fun, got any pics of those?
And yeah, I totally get you. I'm just a sucker for colors. Resale value is a good point as well but it isn't a high priority for me.
I don't know about resale value... I expect the resale value of my 500EUR china frames to be 0 in every color...
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I don't know about resale value... I expect the resale value of my 500EUR china frames to be 0 in every color...
Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
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Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
You'll probably have to pay when you bring it to the recycling center :o
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I think that's less and less true every year that passes. Yes, a pool noodle with rough carbon strands inside from 5y ago is going to be hard to get excited over. But take a frame from last year that's fully integrated, and you have something that should be future proof enough for quite a few use cases. A frame that only takes 25C is dead. But 28C is still fairly current, although i wouldn't buy anything new that can't take 32C.
I'm trying to sell my VB GF002 from last year and the issue i have is the mechanical disc brakes. The frame with nice wheels & tyres rides great, but people want hydraulic brakes (and they're right). Ah and the fact I painted it myself doesn't help, the colour is a bit polarizing.
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Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
I've seen used VB frames sell locally for close to 80% MSRP so any considerations like what paint to get and so on, aren't trivial if you do want to resell and upgrade later. Part of it is that the value is already there to begin with so people who may have just been looking at 2K priced frames see this as a steal, and the other part I think is the trust/awareness factor. By this I mean, oh someone locally in North America for example bought this frame, and they like it, and it's safe and performs, etc, etc.
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Update on my 268
Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.
-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.
-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.
Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.
-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.
Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!
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My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.
Counter point. I got my 168 painted in white with pink logos and a blue fork. I have zero regrets after over a year with this paint job. I bought an open mold because it was cheap and gave me the option of custom paint. I don’t have nor did I ever think of resale value because it’s an open mold and who is buying second hand open mold frames? I wanted something fun and unique.
My point is: get the paint you want. Forget about resale value. Get the paint job that excites you and makes you want to ride your bike. We’re not talking about $5000 frames and $2000 custom paint jobs. Mine cost an extra $50 to go wild and do custom logos. The whole package was like $650 before shipping. Have fun with it. I can say with 100% certainty that I would have regretted getting a black frame. Part of the fun with an open mold is the custom paint options. That’s my opinion at least. I didn’t see the point of getting a plain matte black frame when custom paint is so cheap.
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Really wish velobuild designed the 268 with the same seatpost as the 168 so they could offer the option for zero setback or setback and existing 168 owners could order a zero setback
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Update on my fork plug slipping. I added a good amount of carbon paste to the plug and inside the tube. No change. It slips even more I think.
I have now removed it, cleaned everything with alcohol and will see.
@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.
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I would try a different plug, they're very cheap on AliExpress. You may also want to try fiberglass cloth, you can probably find a roll in a local diy store for cheap. People have sometimes used that to create some friction with slipping seatposts. How much torque are you applying?
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The SL7 replica plug worked fine for me.
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Double 268 build coming up (when I get the groupsets (105 Di2) and wheels). One 54 cm in Silver Chameleon (for a friend) and one 56 cm in Blue Chameleon (for me), both with black contrast color on the inside of fork and rear triangle. Really pleased with the quality of paint job, no air bubbles, trapped dust etc.
To be continued :)
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@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.
Neco Headset Expander - Size/length Large.
I never ever use the provided expander plug on any budget frameset.
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I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
I can now confirm that the SL7 Di2 battery mount works for the 268 :)
Can't put the link in, so have added a screenshot:
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Well, you got me ... I just placed an order for a 268 frame myself :D
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Just starting to build my Vb 268 using the Ltwoo Electronic groupset. What grommets are y’all using for the front/rear derailleur wires where they exit the frame?
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what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit
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what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit
Going by height only is not recommended for proper bike sizing. At very least you want to measure inseam length as well. If you really want to get it right, you'd measure leg length in two parts (ankle to knee and knee to hip bone), torso length, shoulder width, and arm length. This would give you the most important contact points to the frame.
However, if this is all you can get, then by height only I'd say a 52 frame would be appropriate, which would be a S for velobuild.
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also flexibility, weight, weight distribution, core and upper body strenght
how does her current bike fit her? too short/long, tall/low? best starting point is your current bike to see what changes might suit you and which general directions you want to go in for the new one
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Can she go to a bike shop and try a road bike or two? That would take out a lot of guesswork. Cable integration and one piece cockpit are the enemies of an uncertain bike fit, too... And a gf in an uncomfortable position is an unhappy gf. Unhappy gfs are fire breathing dragons. Dragons are scary. Like snakes, but bigger and with fire.
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Can she go to a bike shop and try a road bike or two? That would take out a lot of guesswork. Cable integration and one piece cockpit are the enemies of an uncertain bike fit, too... And a gf in an uncomfortable position is an unhappy gf. Unhappy gfs are fire breathing dragons. Dragons are scary. Like snakes, but bigger and with fire.
Honestly at that point might as well just buy a lower-end bike at the shop. Personally I think chiner bikes are most suitable people who have their fit, mech-ing etc. figured out.
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Update on my 268
Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.
-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.
-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.
Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.
-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.
Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!
I also encountered the issue with the 7x9 saddle clamp. I reached out to Velobuild and they sent me a new one. I have not received it yet but I'll comment once I have it.
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-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
I also encountered the issue with the 7x9 saddle clamp. I reached out to Velobuild and they sent me a new one. I have not received it yet but I'll comment once I have it.
You guys have pictures of that? I'm running a 7x9 rail saddle myself and would like to do that on the 268 as well.
Is the 7x9 rail clamp included automatically or did you have to ask them to put in the box as well?
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651)
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Anecdotally I've been using the 7x9 clamps on a RYET 3D saddle since complete the build together and no issues so far.
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Thank you for the link. Must have missed that. That for sure does not look right. I don't think higher torque would help seat it correctly. Rather destroy the clamp or the seat clamps as it presses against it oddly.
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I have two different Ryet carbon saddles on my two 268 frames. On one of the saddle the rails measure 9 mm high, on the other 11 mm.
I was asked by Velobuild if I needed a special clamp for carbon rails and was send two sets. They fit fine on the one with 7x9 mm (picture 1) but terrible on the one with 11 mm (picture 2). I just don't think that the side clamping mechanism in general is great on these kind of carbon rails. Should have done my research better before I ordered the Ryet knock off of the Pro Stealth II.
I'm on the look out for a clamp that goes closer to 11 mm than the one I've got.
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I have two different Ryet carbon saddles on my two 268 frames. On one of the saddle the rails measure 9 mm high, on the other 11 mm.
I was asked by Velobuild if I needed a special clamp for carbon rails and was send two sets. They fit fine on the one with 7x9 mm (picture 1) but terrible on the one with 11 mm (picture 2). I just don't think that the side clamping mechanism in general is great on these kind of carbon rails. Should have done my research better before I ordered the Ryet knock off of the Pro Stealth II.
I'm on the look out for a clamp that goes closer to 11 mm than the one I've got.
7x11 rails not fitting into a 7x9 clamp?! Big surprise! :o
No but honestly, why would you expect them to fit? You sometimes get away with it on a system that clamps from above. But those from the side never really work with anything but the specs they came with.
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7x11 rails not fitting into a 7x9 clamp?! Big surprise! :o
No but honestly, why would you expect them to fit? You sometimes get away with it on a system that clamps from above. But those from the side never really work with anything but the specs they came with.
That is exactly what I just said. And even though it measures 7x11 mm it is sold as 7x9 mm, so you have your "big surprise" right there
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Yeah that's how my saddle rails are positioned too :-\
I've done some longer endurance rides and a couple of spirited efforts, but no fast group rides/races yet. Not until I can resolve the clamp issue or source a saddle with 7x7 rails.