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Re: Velobuild VB-R-177 My 177 build video is live. Super thrilled with the final results

YouTube Search: My VeloBuild 177 Is FINISHED!


January 23, 2022, 02:47:32 PM
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Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Did you really put S-Works decals on your frame?
March 04, 2023, 01:25:43 PM
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Re: Airwolf YFR068 - 2023 Gravel Frame The internet lol
October 09, 2023, 05:19:03 PM
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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc! If anyone is looking for an alternative groupset for gravel, Microshift Sword is available on AliEx:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805871184107.html


October 11, 2023, 11:02:20 AM
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Re: Speeder wheels
Thanks to this thread I saw speeder for the first time. They have really nice products, not only the wheels. I really like the handlebars they offer and the seapost is genius as they have this little knob to adjust the saddle angle which is great for saddles without cutout. nice

The reason why I purchased the wheels from them is that I got the RC48D frame new but second hand from a forum member and they weren't willing to sell/ship me spare derailleur hangers and headset.

However I am happy with the wheels and have zero regret on my purchase I'll add a pic to this thread later.

October 12, 2023, 09:57:36 AM
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Re: Interesting Aliexpress finds! - good deals, interesting stuff, new products etc!
Regarding the Aliexpress app.  I don't want to put a Chinese invasive app on my phone.   I am sure there are ties back to the Chinese government.  I am sure they are tracking you...

yeah man they're coming to get ya. hide yo kids hide yo wife

October 12, 2023, 10:44:38 AM
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Re: Yishun R086-D Aero Road
I can recommend the 70mm long version from Deda Elementi. Not available in the US though, IIRC.

Also, it’s not only about having support against the clamping force of the stem. Most shorter expanders provide this as well as the stem obviously sits on top of the steerer and has a stack height of max 40mm. It’s also about providing stability against the bending forces that occur when going over bumps or pulling on the bars. Ideally, if your frame is the correct size and you’re not using a humongous tower of spacers underneath the stem, the expander will protrude all the way or almost until the upper headset bearing. This provides maximum stability.

This for instance is also why Specialized provided super long expanders in their Tarmac SL7 recall. The steerer movement under load meant that the compression ring of the upper headset ate into the carbon steerer until it snapped. The new expander limits this. In my opinion this issue is not isolated to the Tarmac SL7. It’s a problem of internal cable routing designs per se.

The end result is correct, a longer plug is helpful. The reason why isn't correct. It's sort of off topic, but it's worth thinking about in the name of safety of internal routing systems. I've been working on trying to make <2mm over bearing options possible (largely for my own use) and it's really hard because of what's involved and the potential risks of not getting it right.

The majority of the bending forces are borne by the carbon tube. Carbon is exceptionally good at managing loads like that and the expander is fit via a very small amount of friction. It's not going to do a whole lot in terms of keeping that tube rigid and preventing bending. What it does do is that it prevents the carbon tube from shearing locally as it preloads the carbon tube.

Historically a long expander wasn't as critical because the steerer made contact with the compression ring nearly 360 degrees and was held relatively tight against the upper bearing. Even if you lost preload and the bending got worse, the typical symptom was your steerer developing the "ring of death." This meant eventual failure but more often than not seems to be spotted before it led to an accident when riders checked on chronically loose headsets.

The SL7 failures also start with the loss of headset preload. This causes three things to happen. First the bending moment increases exponentially, second the steerer is now facing local impacts against the compression spacer which in the SL7s case was a relatively small surface area part, third the steerer can get worn via movement against the metal spacer and because of the design of that spacer would rapidly develop the "ring of death." These three meant that fork failures happened much faster than on other bikes. The SL7 fix therefore needed to address all three: improved plug, extension hanging off the bottom to limit the effect of those impacts, and a metal ring to be a new wear surface and further distribute forces around the steerer

This is less of a problem for other systems like the FSA ACR because their compression plugs use a different design that's heavier but less likely to lead to preload loss and their C ring has more contact area. Its even less of a problem for the current gen Deda DCR because it uses a nylon spacer that will wear the carbon less and it's designed to fit tightly to the steerer. It's also 15mm deep which has even more contact area.

With all of these systems you should check them every few thousand miles or so even if you have never had any issues with preload to look for wear. If your headset can't hold preload, I would chuck it and replace it with either the FSA or Deda system that fits.

TLDR: Headset preload is more important than ever. Don't ride with a loose headset. Using a high quality insert / expander will certainly help!




October 14, 2023, 01:25:26 AM
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Re: Airwolf YFR068 - 2023 Gravel Frame No fender mounts - race bike. Could run some of the no mount needed types.
October 16, 2023, 01:39:22 PM
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Re: Groupset News
From their youtube. With only 46t, it is not very interesting for me to be honest. I was hoping to be able to use a standard 10-50 or 10-51 mtb casette.

I'd be scared to run Ltwoo's electronic setup for gravel. You'd be screwed if you were riding in a remote area and your RD decides to stop shifting.

October 17, 2023, 02:28:23 PM
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Re: Spcycle New Mold G056 Carbon Gravel Frame
I’m doing a build with this frame and have a possible issue with the T47 BB being very tight. I’ve never worked with this style, so I’m not sure what to expect. It gets hand tight after a couple threads and then really starts to get snug. The threads seem clean and it doesn’t seem to be cross threaded. Both sides are the same. I don’t want to get too rough with it and bind or break something. Any ideas?
I've run into this problem several times.  These days, every frame I purchase from Alixpress, I wash out the bottom bracket threads using soapy water and a stiff nylon brush.  Then I blow-dry the threads with a compressed air nozzle.   All it takes is one small piece of metal in the threads to start the binding/cross-threading of a thread.   
I spent about 2 hours one time on a threaded bottom bracket thread with a magnifying glass and a fine metal pick carefully restoring a thread where I had messed up the thread due to a fine metal filing that became embedded in the bottom bracket thread. The filing messed up the crest and was stuck in the thread root.

October 18, 2023, 01:41:04 PM
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