A chance to sell yourself...

Why would people want to buy from you instead of direct from Farsports with those identical specs?

I’ll explain my decision:

Farsports is on a different level price-wise. About 30% more expensive at least from what I can tell. I think Serenade should better be compared to the cheaper options, e.g from Elite Wheels. Like the Edge wheelset. I did consider that one but a) I liked the specs for these wheels better and b) I’m really not a fan of the matte black painted rims. These rims are transparent, so you can see the UD carbon.

If this really is your first ever wheelbuild then you chose something with quite the steep learning curve
I've been building wheels for many years. I started out with rim brake alloy wheel stuff mostly for commuters and urban bikes, like lacing wheels with hub dynamos and stuff for myself and friends. From there I went to building more complex spoke patterns and carbon wheels and so on.

I agree with most of your choices except for two:

A 2:1 spoke ratio made a lot of sense on rim brake rear wheels IMO, where one side took all the torsional load and therefore is laced in a 3 cross pattern while the other side can be laced radially (which is how the Ford factory did it way back on laced car wheels when they invented the idea). It made sense because of the drastic difference in spoke angles with the DS spokes being much further inboard due to the cassette. Ever since disc brakes, both side's spokes had to move inboard and the difference in spoke angle and tension isn't as bad as it used to be. So the advantage of 2:1 isn't really as big as it used to be. Personally, I stopped doing it. I do think that asymmetric rear rims with a slight offset to the NDS make sense to further correct the difference in spoke angles. But that's about it.

The other thing is internal nipples. I think it's not worth the hassle. Sure, you chose superlight rims so it might be better to err on the side of caution. But I think Enve's argument that this makes a sturdier rim is marketing bogus. What is much more important is that the rim bed is reinforced as a whole, which is the case with most carbon rims. And it's important that the spoke holes are drilled cleanly and accurately in exactly the correct angles, so as to not cause stress at the nipples and threads due to bending moments. This is the case with most well made rims, but I had bad examples from some Chinese sellers. Like you, I've sourced rims from various Aliexpress sellers over the years.

The aero benefit of internal nipples might be there. Honestly, I don't care. If you ever choose to run your wheels tubeless it'll be a huge PITA to access the nipples should you ever have to. Also, since weight seems important to you, it'll increase spoke length and therfore makes the wheel marginally heavier. A well built wheel will usually not go out of true. But there can be incidents like hitting pot holes in a race or whatever.

But like many things in wheelbuilding, this is just my philosophy. I think you did a stellar job and built a super impressive wheelset. Congrats! And it's a really nice feeling to be riding around on one of a kind wheels that you yourself built.

I think 32mm measured width is definitely doable with direct mount brakes. My VB-R218 easily clears 30mm. The limiting factor is actually more the chainstays rather than the brakes. With single bolt mounted brakes it depends on the caliper and the height of the caliper placement l, I imagine. The latest gen calipers from Campag and Shimano have A LOT of tire clearance. I had a modern rim brake steel frame with a Columbus carbon fork with single bolt Campag calipers. That one would definitely have cleared 32s. I rode it with 28s, though. But there was a lot of space left. But you will run out of clearance directly under the caliper at some point. Add grit and grime to that and the tire will leave ugly marks on the caliper.

Since this thread is back from the dead, I thought I might as well give an update. More than 8000k done. No issues. Still the first headset with no signs of wear which is a pleasant surprise.  I wasn’t too confident in those bearings. This is the bike with the race wheels on: 60mm deep/1300g with 28mm tubulars. These feel soo nice when accelerating and the cornering feel is insane. I’m still in love with the handling of this frame and the super quick steering response.

You probably have spare split spacers lying around, right? Use one the to stack your stem a tad higher and tighten everything down and see if the play is gone. If yes, then your fork steerer still is a tad too long. If not, then something else is going on.

I'm based in Germany. I used cells from German company (reseller?) PATONA. They do all kinds of batteries including big ones for e-scooters and e-bikes. They were slightly more expensive - something like double the price of the cheap stuff on Amazon. But they're working reliably. I guess you really shouldn't save money on the battery.

They are all same. I bought different brands and noticed that the lockring on which brand name is printed comes in its own little pouch sticky-taped to main cassette body. One manufacturer is producing those cassettes and ZTTO, Wuzei, Goldix, Sunshine just add brand lockrings on top and make it theirs. Those mid range lightweight cassettes are really good. I am yet to try scary light cassettes like Riro branded.

Naah, Thanks. 250g for a 11-34 12sp cassette is light enough for me. I’ll steer clear of steel/aluminium cassettes from Ali for the time being.