Do you have any pictures of the closest points to frame rub?

Thanks!

Here you go! I tried to get all the angles.
Upon closer inspection, maybe a 30mm tire may be cutting it close, what do y'all think?

I'm pretty happy with these tires. If anything, I might be looking to go a bit narrower in the future.

I don't think that's really possible without creating a new mold, but maybe I'm wrong? That's got to be prohibitively expensive. As had already been said, you can get custom titanium frames from companies like Waltly.
I know there's small brands offering custom geometry options for carbon bikes in the states, but those aren't going to be anywhere near open mold prices $$$$

Anyone have issue with the straight seat post hardware by the saddle? 2 hours of total ride time and it ended up stripping the barrel of the rear bolt. Had to ride 9 miles home standing up. I don’t think I overtorqued it…. But was kind of a bummer.

Otherwise I’m pretty stoked on it!

I have the same straight seatpost but I sourced it elsewhere. It's a Toseek but the hardware looks identical to the VB post and I'm not too crazy about it either... No issues yet, but it's a bit hard to set up just how I want it and it the hardware doesn't look or feel as good as the setback seatpost imo. Currently looking for a different straight seatpost myself

Just dropping a quick pic/build blurb of my 177 for y'all to see

-Frame size M, 420x100 one piece bar and stem
-Total weight is about 8kg/18 lb. as you see it with pedals, cages, mount, etc (without bottles).
-Delivered as an og black frame. Custom paint and decals done by me.
-Groupset: Sram hydro mechanical mashup with Shimano crankset and chain and Deckas lightweight rotors. Centerline XR rotors are sitting on my desk. I'll switch them out eventually, I just have no issue with the performance of the Deckas rotors and they're significantly lighter as well.
-Wheel/tires: 38mm depth/25mm inner width Chinese carbon wheels sourced from OfferUp for a good deal, I think they're Superteam. Matched up with 29mm Enve SES tires. Tubeless setup.
-Saddle: Prologo NDR 143. I miss my carbon Velobuild saddle  the VB saddle pooped out and Chris has sent a replacement. Can't wait for it to arrive.
-Photos show the VB seatpost. I'm now running a 0 offset carbon seatpost.
-Time ATAC XC4 Pedals (yes, mtb pedals)

May do a longer review/video/photoshoot later on if time permits, detailing the build specs, issues, build and ride experiences, paint/decal process, etc.

Hello,
last year I built my first gravel bike velobuild GF-002, had some issues, most of them were due to my lack of enough experience and very easy to solve, and some were known velobuild issues, still relatively easy to solve.

I rode my bike over 3500 km.
My friends, after seeing me riding with confidence, also wanted to have a gravel bike like that, so I built another 7 GF-002 for friends, with integrated bar and separated bar and stem combinations, during that process, I learned lots of tricks, and made my tools better and collect a good amount of experience for building bikes.

I thought now it's time to build a proper road bike for myself again, and here it is, my new VB-R-177, and I absolutely love it.

The classic headset play problem can be solved (at least in my cases) with a sand paper, you should sand the steerer tube until the headcap sits perfectly on the compression plug, and yes, it should be straight, so take your time and try to have a clean cut, it helps.
If you still have problem, micro shims are your friend, cut one and put it between compression ring and headset cover.
For another classic problem, rubbing brakes, you should use M5 bolts that comes usually with break rotors(for 6 bolt rotors) as they are a bit shorter than regular bolts, they may help a lot to adjust the breaks properly.
Other than that, I don't see any major issue on velobuild side.

If you are considering some semi-hydraulic solution like juin-techs, you should not, yes, they can stop you, but the difference is like day and night, now I feel much much safer on descends, and have much better control overall.

For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.

After about 200 km on this, I can say the ride quality is very good, the bike is very responsive, climbing and descending is very fun, the bike is fast and comfortable.

I did not build a weight weenie bike, so my setup with pedals, bottle cages, garmin mount and velobuild gravel wheels (which I used on my gravel bike) is 7.9, so you can cut some good amount of weight if you go for a lighter wheelset.

Agreed on the Juin Tech/cable hydro option. Don't do it! This frame/bar combo is not a good candidate for mechanical/cable hydraulic brakes of any brand, things can get rather dicey in descents and tight corners. When I first built up my 177 I used a full mechanical group with Juin Tech F1s and while they did the job, braking power and reliability was just not good enough regardless of cable housing/pad switches/adjusting/etc. I did. Everything I tried made the brakes slightly better, but still nowhere near the ease and power of the SRAM hydraulic brakes I promptly switched to. I mainly tried them out because red anodized calipers look really, really cool. Still trying to figure out a way to make my SRAM calipers red