Sory for post my problem again but this is new er9 from Aliexpress, ltwoo and store from few days are off ;/ Total silence od ther side ;/

problem with er9 one of you have simillar problem (i have PM him).
straight road without any holes, and system go down. This happend with some combination of front from 1 to second and on rear and back. After plug charger system turn on (new battery). happend when i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time??
Front from big to small and back vice versa.
Yesterday i have test it without gear protection in app (off) and while on FD move from 1 to 2 then all OFF. When gear protection is on i can change at FD gears few times and when chanigng in not smooth system of, this looks like some of protection?? In my opinion FD is quite good adjust at 2x11

Thanks for any help

That's assuming that Shimano and SRAM components never have issues, which is far from the case. I wasn't really paying attention when the first electronic group sets became common, but others comment that they had their issues, even on race days. I would assume they still do, to a much lesser degree, though the rare times they still have issues the problems are probably more quickly and painlessly corrected.

Also, engineering and design missteps are still non unheard of for the big boys, as stories of Shimano's delaminating cranks caused many people huge headaches and even injuries.

But I wasn't talking about the upper end of the market. I was talking about the mid and lower tiers, where electronic geoupsets can really shine on a price/performance ratio, but Shimano and SRAM keep the tech walled off to only high performance and super high price because they have no real reason not to price it as such. Now, perhaps, they'll have a reason.

maybe true....but i have never had a hassle when quality problems occured with the big players., shimano swapped all the faulty stuff without a hassle, ....Ltwoo knows about all those issues, but keeps selling these faulty groups and generates more frustration on users and sellers side....with this behaviour, it should be a no brainer for them to help customers getting the group running...or take the stuff back?
in my base, groups did not work and no one helped or asks for videos...we are just beeing ignored..
i am doing chinese business for 25 years now....we started with ltwoo and big motivation to establish a brand against to big ones...at the end, it was just a waste of time..the mechanical groupsets work well, but with aliexpress selling cheaper than ltwoo to dealers?
It was just a waste of time.
DJI for instance had faulty stuff, too....all these items where collected and deducted from next orders..with this, we never had problems selling quantities, as we knew DJi will help....so the market had no problems with minor issues....these issues were solved within 2 weeks..and a plan was established how to proceed with the products on the market....
It seems LTWOO does not have the capacity to concentrate on these products as they are busy with domestic sales with entry groupsets....

Look at sensah...the were one of the first companies at the starting line....but they are way behind now...

If this really is your first ever wheelbuild then you chose something with quite the steep learning curve
I've been building wheels for many years. I started out with rim brake alloy wheel stuff mostly for commuters and urban bikes, like lacing wheels with hub dynamos and stuff for myself and friends. From there I went to building more complex spoke patterns and carbon wheels and so on.

I agree with most of your choices except for two:

A 2:1 spoke ratio made a lot of sense on rim brake rear wheels IMO, where one side took all the torsional load and therefore is laced in a 3 cross pattern while the other side can be laced radially (which is how the Ford factory did it way back on laced car wheels when they invented the idea). It made sense because of the drastic difference in spoke angles with the DS spokes being much further inboard due to the cassette. Ever since disc brakes, both side's spokes had to move inboard and the difference in spoke angle and tension isn't as bad as it used to be. So the advantage of 2:1 isn't really as big as it used to be. Personally, I stopped doing it. I do think that asymmetric rear rims with a slight offset to the NDS make sense to further correct the difference in spoke angles. But that's about it.

The other thing is internal nipples. I think it's not worth the hassle. Sure, you chose superlight rims so it might be better to err on the side of caution. But I think Enve's argument that this makes a sturdier rim is marketing bogus. What is much more important is that the rim bed is reinforced as a whole, which is the case with most carbon rims. And it's important that the spoke holes are drilled cleanly and accurately in exactly the correct angles, so as to not cause stress at the nipples and threads due to bending moments. This is the case with most well made rims, but I had bad examples from some Chinese sellers. Like you, I've sourced rims from various Aliexpress sellers over the years.

The aero benefit of internal nipples might be there. Honestly, I don't care. If you ever choose to run your wheels tubeless it'll be a huge PITA to access the nipples should you ever have to. Also, since weight seems important to you, it'll increase spoke length and therfore makes the wheel marginally heavier. A well built wheel will usually not go out of true. But there can be incidents like hitting pot holes in a race or whatever.

But like many things in wheelbuilding, this is just my philosophy. I think you did a stellar job and built a super impressive wheelset. Congrats! And it's a really nice feeling to be riding around on one of a kind wheels that you yourself built.

You said, “I haven’t installed the groupset on my bike yet.”  I’ m a bit confused by this if you’re having problems.  Can you clarify?

For me, running 11spd, on initial set up/calibration you set the RD to the smallest cog (with or without the chain).  Once that is done you visually align the jockey wheels with the smallest cog using the limit screws.  Test the shifting and ensure the limit screw doesn’t allow for an overshift. From there you should be able cycle through the cog and set the high limit. Theoretically, it should work all just fine but you can adjust specific cog through the fine tuning feature.

FWIW, I’m still putting the miles/kms on my EDS to determine its reliability.  So far, I like it.  No issues with being stuck in a gear.

Pass quest put out a carbon crankset too!

2200rmb(~$300) for crank arms only, dub spindle, 326g