Patty,
What are your current bikes in your arsenal? Is the T1500 the only one you keep around?

Current Fleet - This is abhorrent

Winspace T1500
'23 Giant Propel Advanced Pro
Tavelo Attack
'22 Specialized Allez Sprint
VeloBuild 268
Yishun R086D
Polygon Helios A8X

Still working through long-term thoughts on most of these, but the Allez Sprint needs to be sold soon.

What's the difference between the QED chainrings, and the optional chainrings supplied with the PES? I'm trying to understand by Magene's QED video.

Are the QED rings similar to SRAM Red's one-piece design?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzVJ_Q8LOyx/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

info@tantancycling.com

Very fair point about the current pricing of both Winspace and Tavelo. But if they are both in fact sourced by Adapt, it's a shame we don't see more bike builds and conversations on their frames on this forum. Especially if we are to assume the quality/fit finish is nearly the same if true.

The question becomes:
1. Does Adapt not (easily) offer up B2C sales?
2. Are people generally just not interested in their frames?

If it's the latter then it's odd to use the Winspace open-mold talking point if people just aren't interested in Adapt's offerings to begin with.

Update on my 268

Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.

-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.

-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.

Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.

-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.

-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.

Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!

I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.

Here are my steps, assuming after a fresh and proper brake bleed:

Step 1: Re-seat/Recess the pistons fully back into the caliper. Very important step.
Step 2: Loosen the caliper bolts.
Step 3: Firmly engage the brake to the rotor. I usually squeeze about 4-5 times to fully engage the pistons.
Step 4: Torque calipers bolts while brakes are engaged. Release brakes.
Step 5: Spin the wheel and inspect any rotor imbalances or brake rub. A white strip of paper behind the caliper really helps.
Step 6: Slightly loosen the caliper bolts and use metal shim.
Step 7: If that doesn't work you can also use a very thin plastic/paper one sided shim on either side of the rotor. Rotor shims can also be helpful if the wheel hub in general is too far offset/off-center at either side.

Thanks for the support yall. I appreciate the input over the years.