I recall reading not to use the automotive brake cleaner on bike brake rotors because it leaves a residue that doesn't get burnt off at bike temperatures like it would on an automobile.

I recently used automotive electronic cleaner to spray out my suspension bearings and clean off my hub ratchets.  It cleans off the grease and flashes off really fast. 

Thanks :-)

Yes it is always tempting to built another bike. What I really would like and that would suit med is a light 140 mm rear travel 150 mm front travel bike that can take a long dropperpost.  But thats not easy to find. I have a Cannondale Habi 1 thats kind of like that but with a little "old school" geometry.

I also have a Commencal Meta TR29 V4 with 140 mm rear travel but its morae like a fast endurobike, I would like something more playful.

The LCFS958 was a lot of what i´m looking for in a bike so I hope they will come with something updated, similar from Light carbon.

I live in the southwest of Sweden but I come fron the North of Sweden and we have nice MTB riding at both places.

How does the 958 ride compared to the 917?  I realize the 958 has about 10mm more rear travel and 10-30mm more on the front depending on the fork. 

I suspect it would be similar to the 917.  I should probably bump up to the 947 but I conveniently have an extra shock that would fit the 958.  I don't hit a ton of jumps/drops so probably don't have an excuse for an N+1 anyway.

Hi guy's I'm having trouble with bleeding the brakes, I've been trying in several different ways but I cant get the rear brake to it's full potential.

My guess is that it is air in the hoose under the crank, I've been whipping the handle, twisting the handle, tried to bleed the brakes according to shimanos guide, I've been trying to do it the traditional way as you do it on cars but I'm a not satisfied.

Is there anyone else that's been having the same kind of issues?

What kind of brakes are you using?  I had issues with my shimano brakes on my externally routed fatbike.  Ultimately the best bleed I got was by putting a full funnel on the lever and then opening the bleed port on  on the caliper and letting a bunch of fluid run out.  I also tilted the front of the bike up and removed the caliper to try and get everything as vertical as possible.  And don't forget to remove the pads.

This appears to be the original version out of Taiwan since 2015/6.  They have a cool dual cable version that shifts front derailleurs too.   
Question is...  Did LTwoo copy one of the 2 other designs, or develop theirs independently?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1598276649/xshifter-worlds-first-universal-wireless-smart-shi

Does anybody know where to get anything but the single shift setup?  I'm wondering if the dual pull or some combination of multiple singles could work for electronic suspension lockout. 

Had any more experience with this frame now that you can share with us?

I see that you have painted the frame self, can you talk me thru the process? Finish good, cans or spray?
I see that every frame is black matt when we order it, do we need to specify unpainted when we order it or is this "coat" something that every frame has/need anyway?

I got mine built up in May of 2020.  I now have 4570 miles on it.  Where I live is pretty flat. It climbs well on the hills I have ridden.  I've taken it off some jumps and drops up to 4 feet and it's fine so far.  I have it set up with a 120mm SID ultimate (previous generation with 32mm stanchions) and a Fox Nude 165x45 off a 2017 Scott Spark with the twinloc set up. 

I'm about 5'8.5".  I have a wingspan of 6'0" so my fit is weird.  I have a 90mm, -6 stem with 740mm bars to try and get a long enough reach.  The only issue I've had so far is the lower rocker bolt sheared off the head and worked it's way out the drive side.  I didn't notice until it started pushing my chain off.  When Light Carbon sent me the backup I bought a full backup set of all hardware and a couple more extra derailleur hangers.  They are a shape I haven't been able to find anywhere else.

I'ver run into the same issue with Lezyne mounts.  On my gravel bike I run the o-ring mount on the stem.  It's been alright.  It does seem a little jiggly and I'll have to see if the flexy cross piece is stressing.

On my fatbike the stem is way too short to fit the o-ring mount.  so I used the O-ring mount onto a cateye stem mount and it fits.  This the the cateye mount I'm talking about

https://sportfactoryproshop.com/cateye-flextight-stem-handlebar-mount/

On my full suspension bike the stem is just slightly too short.  On this one I use a cateye k-edge adjustable stem mount that I 3d printed an adapter that I screwed this barfly adapter into.  This one is awesome because it eliminates the flex piece that breaks with a spring loaded cone.

https://www.performancebike.com/bar-fly-lezyne-computer-head-insert-bf4lzynb-461/p-fe7rs4gc2uqrgqhe?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7asy0i1ADgVQ6Ai7EcENM51pWpDUFHEKwVkVRWxuyKo2etv_qYvDiBRoCQnQQAvD_BwE

I'm in the lucky situation to have a few forks, shocks, wheels and posts sat on a shelf, waiting for a project(s) for my little ripper.

I have a 2016 36 RC2 170 and a set of FR2150 non boost wheels and an 8.5x2.5 Float X2 that I'd intended to use to build up a Genius LT frame that never materialized.
So, Top Fire Firebird clone M930, or SC clone M931. Either look ok to work as 27.5 options.

More challenging is that I have a 120mm 34 SC and a 165x45 nude (poss shim to 42.5) so do I go the FM936 Carbonda frame route (as 29er), or do I use that rear shock on an LC 958 and go the down country route vs race day route and build with a 150mm 34?

Lastly a 185x55 shock, best stuck on a FM1001 w/ 140mm 34 fork or on LC's FS947 with 150mm 36?

I'm not sure I'm super keen on the LC bike looks though, but its not for me.
IS there a better brand of the 3 for warranty, quality etc?

Buying from the same supplier makes sense to reduce shipping. e.g. Carbondas current promo shipping and freebies are better for 2 bikes than 1.

Of course I could just sell all my parts but I like building bikes.... Trouble is I keep going round in circles and all the time I've spent looking I could've bought a retail priced SantaCruz by now

You could also see if LC will sell you a lcfs917.  It's not listed but someone else got one.  You can run a 165x45 nude on it and get about 117 rear travel.

What size of rear shock did you use on the Lcfs911?
I would quess a 165*45?
I have a 200*48 that I would like to use, perhaps not ideal but do you think it would fit?

Light carbon suggests no larger than 165x40. I had one that I didn't keep and think you might be able to run 165x42.5 with just enough clearance so the brace between the seat stays doesn't but the seat tube at full compression