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Re: Spcycle 2023 New Travel 120mm Super Light 29er full suspension frame Hello

Abjustable headset or headset cups would be nice: 66 and 67 degrees. With straight 1.5 there is room, I think. Some kind of flipchip would be another option. I have SP-M05, which has worked fine so far.

Aku
May 03, 2023, 03:47:45 AM 		1
Re: Spcycle 2023 New Travel 120mm Super Light 29er full suspension frame That is good to know! :)

Could you also make offset headset bearings to get 66 degrees head angle with 120mm fork?

Aku
May 06, 2023, 01:05:51 AM 		2
Re: Epic Evo Clone Hello

Chainstay on size L seems to be the given 438 mm. I measured with a tape measure.

Someone else asked about other meausurements but has deleted the message. Distance between rear axle and main pivot point is 435 mm and distance between rear axle and seatstay pivot is 460 mm.

I have had the frame for a month now. Longest ride has been 118 km.
October 11, 2023, 02:58:04 AM 		4
Re: Epic Evo Clone Hi

I have a 150 mm OneUp V2 on mine. The total length of 150 V2 is 42 cm and effective length without actuator is 40,5 cm. When I push the post all the way down I have 24 cm outside of frame, so it goes 16,5 cm in before stop (18 cm with actuator). My insertion length seems to be 13,5 cm with 74,5 cm distance between center of bottom bracket and seat rails.
October 21, 2023, 02:34:54 AM 		2
Re: Epic Evo Clone It was kind of surprising that the insert length on mine is only 165 mm. The upper part of seat tube before bend could take about 220 mm. There can be differences between frames. I wanted to use a 400 mm rigid carbon Elitaone and 150 mm OneUp V2 and both fit, so I am happy.
October 21, 2023, 04:08:50 AM 		1
Re: Epic Evo Clone I tried to take a look at the right level: the distance is 30 mm.
October 22, 2023, 04:32:50 AM 		1
Re: Epic Evo Clone >> Square_Cookies

Imperial shock fits. :)
November 13, 2023, 05:31:17 AM 		1
Re: Epic Evo Clone Hi

This frame was the second I have built up. I made the following notices:


Rear axle was fine, put grease there (green like Shimano, but NLGI 1).

I disassembled all the pivot hardware and put grease.

The shock bushings that came with the frame were useless, because the part which goes inside the eyelet is too small. I bought new bushings. If you have no hurry you can measure the frame first.

The shock bolt hole in the rocker link may be a little too big for the bolt so keep eye on it. It is metal against metal. A thin plastic coating would help I think.

Shock mounting on the main frame is better. The paint and carbon are softer materials than the bushings so people may put something between them so the bushings won´t damage the frame. I used car wrap and grease.

The headset was easy to assemble (grease) but did not work first. The bars wouldn´t turn. The culprit was the the upper cover or plate which touched the frame (my first language is not English). I put a 2,5 millimeter thick carbon headset spacer between the upper bearing and the plate and made the headset work like a charm.

The BSA bottom bracket was easy but before that you have to route the cables through the frame.

Gear cable is the easiest.

Dropper and brake cable are harder. I had to disassemble the main pivot to route the brake cable. The hardest part was to get the last, third, cable out though the same hole in the main frame. Do this before the headset.

The dropper post was easy to assemble (used carbon paste there).

Rear derailleur and brakes were easy to do.

The bars can usually hit the main frame on Evos so check it out before crashing (saw it on LoveMTB channel). I made small frame protectors using 2,5 centimeter wide Gorilla tape where the bars made contact with the frame.

Buy a downtube protector or make one. Certain tires in certain conditions bomb this area.

During the first rides I noticed two things. The frame made big clanks on the downhills and the mud liked to use the internal brake cable port and make friends with the bottom bracket. No good..

The clanking came from the chain hitting chainstay using smallest sprockets. I had a protector there but it was too thin, so I put a dense foam like stuff above the chainstay (about 1 cm thick) and wrapped it with electrical tape.

I saw a selfmade mud protector in Carbonda-forums and made one using duct tape. It won´t last a season but is easy to replace and works. I try to put a picture of it soon.
November 30, 2023, 02:47:26 PM 		4
Re: Epic Evo Clone Picture of the mud protector:
November 30, 2023, 02:52:16 PM 		4
Re: Epic Evo Clone Hey

I put CAPGO OL silencing foam on the cables. Figured out it was easiest to do when the cables enter the bottom bracket area, put the CAPGO on and then slide towards the upper hole in the frame. Two cables go nice, the third is challenging.
December 11, 2023, 03:03:23 PM 		1