Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: WorkingHPRs on October 07, 2014, 03:55:25 AM
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Going to use this thread to document my IP-256SL build. Plan is to use it for 24 hour team xc races and it will probably form the basis of my first attempts at cyclocross before sorting out my CX bike. Bike will be largely built with 2nd hand Ebay sourced parts.
Ordered 20th September. I'm based in the UK.
Frame is a 21" IP-256SL. It arrived in UK customs on 25/9/2014. Customs charge was a very reasonable £37 inc the Post Offices £13 fee. Finally picked it up on 14/10/2014.
Wheels are the 35mm (30mm internal) hook less which will run DT Swiss 350 hubs. Rims have arrived but 1 of the hubs got lost (sent to Vietnam apparently) in the post so awaiting replacement). Rims were delivered 30/9/2014, 10 days to my door is pretty impressive!
Drive train will be SRAM X1 (weight of rear cassette is quite interesting!). Sourced X1 kit from Ebay, new straight off of a bike.
Braking is Shimano XTR BR-M988 Trail. Sourced nearly new off of Ebay. XTR RT99 180mm Rotors up front (Bargain from Merlin @ £40 for 2!) and XT RT86 Ice-Tec 160mm at rear.
Front suspension RS Sid XX world cup. New unused off of Ebay. Only worry about this is that it is 120mm travel not 100mm.
Have added build spreadsheet.
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Reserved
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reserved
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If you talk with the customs, or the post office, and if you have your frame unpainted (raw carbon finish), let them know.
As this kind of frame is out of the 48.5% anti-dumping fee they should apply per European laws.
Painted frames fall under the anti-dumping.
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I've seen mention of this elsewhere (no anti-dumping on unpainted frames) but can't find anything in the UK regulations that supports this (unpainted exemption), which is a shame. I wonder if this is something else the UK has decided to opt out of ::) I chose unpainted matt finish for all the components.
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Irrespective of whether they are painted or not, individual frames are exempt from ADD and subject only to import duty at 4.7% and VAT at standard rate.
https://www.gov.uk/trade-tariff/headings/8714?country=&day=7&month=10&year=2014
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Hopefully that will be the case, although oddly I can't see any means of disputing the charges with the Royal Mail. Presumably I'll have to go direct to HMRC.
Anyway, hopefully I will have a card waiting for me at home which will tell me how much I owe!
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flanglian, if you look at https://www.gov.uk/trade-tariff/commodities/8714911039?country=&day=7&month=10&year=2014#import
Which is the import tab of the page you referenced.
You can find the Additional code 8900
Which means if you are not amongst the exempted, you get the ADD.
While the non painted frames have this code:
https://www.gov.uk/trade-tariff/commodities/8714911089?country=&day=7&month=10&year=2014#import
Which does not have those additional code, and ADD.
These are not UK specific codes, they are the same in all Europe.
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Thankfully only charged VAT, with the Parcelforce "clearance" charge it came in at £37. Bits should arrive Friday. :)
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Im using 120mm 51mm offset fork too with my IP-256SL, seems to work well, including 15mm headset spacers and 20mm handlebar rise. No worries. I ride mostly singletrack and it feels great. Even on really steep climbs it is manageable. :)
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Uh oh... What is the offset of the fork and how can I find out? (possible newbie error coming right up!) never heard of offset before :o
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If you draw a line along the headtube center axis.
Then draw a parallel line, passing through the center of the front wheel.
The offset is the distance between the two lines.
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I prefer the longer offset forks bcos 29ers tend to have toe overlap issues when using flat pedals.
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Uh oh... What is the offset of the fork and how can I find out? (possible newbie error coming right up!) never heard of offset before :o
Hopefully, someone can chime in with more specific info.. but when I was researching different offsets of forks and pairing them either the 057 or 256, I came across builds of both frames that were using forks that run the entire gamut of offsets.. they all worked just fine. I think it comes down to which you get accustomed to it.
If there is an optimal fork offset for these frames, I like to know it, if someone has that info?
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Finally got the bits in my hands :) Pictures and weights to follow.
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Have added build spreadsheet to first post.
Tyres arrived today (2015 Nobby Nics 2.35" @ 788g real vs. 725g claimed, so within 10% which seems reasonable.) with and wheels are ready to be picked up.
Most interesting weight discrepancy so far is the XG-1180 MINI CLUSTER (X1 Cassette) coming in @ 264g real vs. 315g claimed by SRAM, that's only 4g heavier than the XG-1199 (XX1 cassette) cluster!
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Have fitted tyres, 2015 Nobby Nic's 2.35" Front and Rear. Not much clearance to the frame and requires a very precise installation otherwise you can't get it in. Looks sweet though!
Used the American Classic valves (as Vipassana did) also used the wide American Classic tubeless tape, have XMIPlay's 35mm external 30mm internal hookless rims and setup one with with a tube overnight (and then removed the tube) and the other with a compressor. Really impressed that both will go for 3-4 days even without sealant. Hubs are DT Swiss 350. The oversize lugs for the 15mm Maxle at the front require a different centre lock lock ring, an externally toothed one which isn't the easiest to find.
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I'm riding the IP-256SL with 2.25 RR ( with 1.8 bar pressure ) on the XMIPlay 30mm hookless rims. Last weekend I found some scratches on the frame at the closes point of the tyre and frame.
Please be aware of your lack of space between your frame and tyre.
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Can see that there isn't much room! but what's the best thing to do? Can always go with a thinner NN in January I guess. Doubt helicopter tape will do much good?
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Proper man cave that Works !! DeWalt, Scalectrix, weights and industrial sized bags of Maltesers ! 8)
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Can see that there isn't much room! but what's the best thing to do? Can always go with a thinner NN in January I guess. Doubt helicopter tape will do much good?
On the 35mm rims I find the 2.25 to be plenty for XC and trail riding. Keep the 2.35 on the front if you prefer. The wide rim just adds so much width and volume to the profile.
As a side note I also found the Nics to wear out very quickly on the rear. I have switched to Conti Trail Kings 2.2 Black Chili and am going to try also some Hutchinson Cobra 2.2 to see if I can get better durability.
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Finally got around to getting "fitted" to the bike, I am 188cm but have a long torso and I am delighted with the results, ended up with a much higher seat position than previously but my lower back pain has gone :) Was prepared to ditch the long stem but we found that dropping it about 12mm and the higher seat position was all that was required, really wish I had done it sooner.
As a side note Paul (Ride @ Plymouth, UK) also sorted a really annoying click from the headset, it sounded like the carbon steerer tube was moving ever so slightly in the headset bearing giving a large plastic "click" under braking. A very generous application of grease sorted the problem, headset is rusting up nicely though. Has anyone sourced a higher spec unit than the one supplied by XMI?
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Which rear tire do you finally run? This 2.35 NN is a no-go to me, way to close to the frame.
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Running the 2015 2.25 NN at the rear and have helicopter tape on the chain stays, so far unmarked. The 2.35 fits but no confidence that it wouldn't foul badly. Hopefully going to have some time in the coming week to ride the 2.25 NN more aggressively and will see if I need to come down further in width.
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Getting some good mileage on the IP-256SL and will be racing it in a 24 MTB race (Bontrager 24/12) this weekend.
Split the carcass of my rear 2015 NN on a flint a week or two ago so have been running it tubed, just bought a replacement to run tubeless for the race and it seems lighter @ 700g (about 50g over the claimed weight) but interestingly has inflated a lot smaller than the one that came off, much needed clearance between tyre and chainstay.
Have also fitted a RS Reverb Stealth, awesome bit of kit totally transformed the bike. Had been really struggling with the technical stuff as the seat position was good and high for climbing but now there is no compromise, fantastic!
Have also switched out the rear axle for a DT Swiss RWS, so much more secure than the OEM version.
Started to notice a creak under load, might be BB not fully tightened but looking over the bike whilst fitting the new tubeless tyre at the rear I found both rear dropouts to be loose. Do you guys use thread lock on these?
Can't believe how capable this bike is, love it!
PS. anyone got any bright ideas on how to remember to lock out the front fork when climbing? I keep forgetting until I get near the top which is tedious!
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DT Swiss: good choice!
Creak: don't focus only on your BB. In my case I had to put some grease on the dropouts between the dropout and the axle.
Dropouts: I put some blue lock tide on the small screws because one came lose.
Lock out: I've got the same problem, always forget to lock the fork during climbing. But I think if I lock the fork, I forget to unlock the fork afterwards :)
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A remote lock lever on the bar right near your left thumb is nice because you can easily feel what position the lock-out is in. That is what I do on my IP-036, my fork and shock have three positions so I can easily flip between climb, trail, and descend at the flick of a switch.
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I would install a rigid carbon fork and all your lock out problems will be solved!