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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: WheelTop EDS TX Full Wireless Groupset (Chinese SRAM)
« on: May 17, 2024, 08:09:17 AM »HmmmClear answer
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HmmmClear answer
Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
"Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.
Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray
In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous".You could try to lower the pressure... 5,5bar (80 PSI) is pretty high for today's standard. I am 65kg and inflate my 28mm tires to 50 psi in the back and 45 in the front. I ride tubeless though...
Can anyone recommend some high quality, light, with solid side entry carbon bottle cages? Need some for MTB.
given the state of the 2nd hand bike market, if you can, get Shimano and not Sensah. I've had mixed experience with Sensah 2x11 carbon. Shimano just works, vs Sensah is largely untested, and if you have warranty issues, you find yourself without a bike for 6 weeks if you're lucky, to deal with back and forth, explanations, shipping and so on. Although, in my experience, Sensah just tells you to eat a d1ck and doesn't honor any kind of warranty anyway, so that simplifies things.Yes, just get second hand ultegra. It just works.
Absolutely not erg mode, just a set, constant resistance
Well that is a great idea.I would guess it makes the shifter bigger...
You just need to provide a way to connect a cable to the lever along the hydraulic cylinder.
So if you use hydraulic, you just use cylinder. O
f you use rim brake you actuate both the cable and cylinder at the same time, but cylinder does nothing.
I wonder how nobody thought of that before...
Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.Yes, the hoses are just guides. Do full external housing.
The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.
Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.
The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...