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Messages - cst_jpr

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31
Personally, if I were to build future wheel sets with these guys, I'd proactively replace the bearings, the ring nut with the DT Swiss Metal version (HXDXXX00N1131S) and replace the star ratchet springs as well (2x of HXDXXX00N1087S) if you are using ZTTO's star ratchet.   Lastly, see if you can snag these with the 36T ratchet instead of the 54T.   Or best yet, snag the DT Swiss 24T Star Ratchet kit (HWTXXX00NSKTFS) which comes with new springs, and the special grease for 44$.

as for bearings

It uses 2x 18307-2RS bearings up front hub (DT Swiss sells replacements - HSBXXX00N2148S)

Uses 2x 6902-2RS bearings on the rear hub main bearing (replaced these with EZO Japanese Bearings).   The free hub I bought it with is the microspline variant which uses 2x 6802-2RS bearings).   The HyperGlide variant of the free hub uses 2x 6902-2RS bearings.   Will find out what the XD variant uses.

At that point its cheaper to just buy the DT hub: https://www.bike24.com/p281576.html
but thanks for posting the relevant part numbers.
18307-2RS = 6903-2RS. nm

32
Recommended when you get your Waltly frame:
- Remove all screws. One of my screws was cross-threaded and stuck, much easier to remove it now than after prepping the frame.
- Thoroughly rinse the thing with water to remove the sand. They thoughtfully put drain holes everywhere.

Anodizing:
Started today at 19.5V, setup: Ground clip going to a sheet of tinfoil, then solution saturated paper towel in between, frame connected to positive lead.
Getting some discolored areas, probably surface contamination. But not removable with isopropyl, or the H2SO4 in the water itself.

Will try a few more solvents, apparently simple green is good but I don't have it. Also will compare H2SO4 to a baking soda mix. Worst case it may end up needing a light sanding in that area.

The etched portions really stand out which is cool (dark), I'll get more photos next time.

33
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: ZRACE crankset confusion
« on: April 29, 2021, 03:10:52 PM »
2) The T25 screws to mount the spider are the kind with a pin in the middle, so your tool needs to have a hole in it. I own four tools with a T25 bit (including two torque wrenches) and neither of them have a hole in it. The crankset does include a small tool you can use, but that is too small to get the screws up to 8Nm. I may try to replace these with SRAM screws. Both are M5x7mm, and I'm hoping the threads will match too.

aka security torx. Thats a bit dumb of them to use those. If necessary you can often break that pin off or drill it.

Chainring bolts thats not too surprising they don't include a tool. Sometimes its not really needed, the nut will grab.

34
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Fovno Crank sets
« on: April 29, 2021, 01:11:31 PM »
These are 70g lighter (516g) than the Fovnos but look a bit too wild for me, and no direct mount: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001817612297.html

Also I suspect Fovno was inspired by the Hope Rx crankset (second photo), some serious similarities but at the same time the shape is very different.

35
i can break them if i try hard enough horizontally, but to be honest, when will they feel horizontal stress and not vertical?

Don't you think there will be a lot of horizontal strain when emergency braking? I wouldn't risk cheap carbon bars or forks.

The specialized looks similar to the broken bar here, which is commonly sold on ali:


36
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Best sub $400 carbon 29er wheels
« on: March 31, 2021, 07:22:46 PM »
I'm always wary with Pilar nipples, a quick look in the comments show a guy that broke two of them after five rides.
Maybe they provide brass nipples on request.
Not sure about their hubs, but it looks all hubs coming in Ali are now DT-Swiss-ized.
Other than that, yes great price !

They mention Pillar spokes but not nipples that I saw. They did say "Nipple: Secure Lock" which is sapim.

Anyway, that photo you are talking about, I think the spoke length is way too short, unless the spoke broke off too. The spoke should thread past the wide section of the nipple.

37
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZRace Disc Brakes
« on: March 31, 2021, 03:24:31 PM »
Does anyone have any experience with the Tektro C550 brakes?
http://tektro.com/products.php?p=261

These seem to be the go-to choice for OEM cable actuated disc brakes. I'm considering getting these instead of the ZRace/ZTTO brakes for a Sensah SRX setup.

The spyre and C550 look to be the same design from what I can see?

China cycling tried some Spyres and said they blew the Zrace away: https://www.youtube.com/c/ChinaCycling/community
Only thing I didn't find out is if he had ever used compressionless housing.
I'm not surprised though, you do still need good grip strength for these. Maybe TRP has managed to tweak the ratios for a better mechanical advantage? That or the zrace are just poor. I would go with either juin tech or TRP/tektro unless you have no budget at all.

38
inspired by berd spokes. but in my opinion a more elegant solution and a work around their patents. 
I've got a few spokes made up like this in my existing wheel build to see if they cause any problems or stretch badly causing out of true scenerio
I'm using regular dyneema kitesurfing line and haven't bothered with the DM 20 cause I have tons of the regular stuff laying around and am wondering if it'll creep badly or if it's good enough.

You basically have to use DM20, its going to creep and lose tension over a period of weeks or months. Even if you happen to have SK78 or similar.
But please post a new thread if you have some results showing otherwise, or photos, etc.

39
Nice looking frame! What are the build details?

I was told it would be 2 months from submitting final plan to the frame being completed. It did take another 3 weeks or so to work out the frame details so that may have changed. I'm expecting / hoping my frame will ship in mid to late May. I opted for FedEx ($280usd) shipping to the US which only took 4 days last time. April and May is prime gravel riding season so I'll be late to the party.

What were you using for solution and power supply when you tried anodizing? I did the blue on my other Waltly frame with a 28v power supply and it came out great. It has seemed to dull a bit though. I did the head tube logo and some small bits like headset spacers with 9v batteries clipped together as well. The issue with the batteries is that they don't provide enough current to do bigger items. I ordered a 0v to 120v variable power supply from Amazon that I hope will give better results this time around. It should arrive next week and I'll test it with some extra spacers I have. I have some Ti m5 x 16mm screws coming from AliExpress that I hope I can get to bright pink and possibly green. I'll keep you posted on the results.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DJ25QL2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=A12APH4T5I08JR&psc=1

No build details really, but I want to try the DIY berd/carbon rim mentioned in another thread. Keeping an eye out for the rope.
If you want etching, get the files ready before they ask is about all you can do now I guess.

Power supply I used was bench supply (DP832, 3A 32V+32V = 64V max). The power supply you linked looks like a good choice, and you'll be able to slowly ramp up and see the color change. Just be careful when at really high voltages, eg wearing thick rubber gloves.

Attached is the deep purple/ink color, I believe it was around 24V. You can see the polished smooth bits look great, but the seatpost that is all scratched up does not look as good. I might try polishing but I suspect its a huge amount of work.

40
Inspiration
After crashing a CF frame, I wanted something corrosion resistant and able to take more abuse.

I used some of these frames for ideas:
https://bearclawbicycleco.com/thunderhawk-titanium-650b-gravel-bike/
https://shop.knollybikes.com/collections/frames/products/knolly-cache-gravel-grinder
https://masoncycles.cc/products/bokehti-frameset

Keep in mind I have no idea what I'm doing, but you may see some ideas you like.

Design stuff:
- The cable entries into the frame look amazing. I specified just "hole cutout" and was expecting them to simply route a hole, but they included adapter plates and everything.
- Seatstays: you can drop only so much until they will interfere with the rear flat mount disc. At that point they have to bend the seatstay to clear.
- Seatpost dia: "seat post is 31.6,then you need to choice our 34.9 seat tube ,if you use 27.2 seat post then need to use 31.8 seat tube"
- Dubble butted: no don't even ask. A lot of the options in their quote PDF aren't even available or are incorrect, so just specify them in the email instead.
- Brushed or sandblast: It looks like they sandblast regardless, then hand sand the frame? Brushed is better for anodizing, sandblast gives a more even look.
- Weight: 1.95kg with thru-axle. Quite heavy, probably would be lighter if I didn't use such wide tubes :)

Timeline:
Waltly as with probably all other bike component manufacturers are likely slammed for orders. Email Sumi with your requirements, be patient. The design stage only took ~17 days (Nov 1) this will depend on how much back and forth there is. Then production was about two months on top of that. I chose "cheap" shipping, another 1.5 month or so to Canada.

Process for etched logos:
- You need to use an old version of CorelDraw (eg X5) to be able to export a compatible EPS file for them. Inkscape won't work.
- To create: Export as EPS, save in version 2 format.
- Text cannot be too thin or it will be hard to etch (like 1mm), even after thickening some text on mine it turned out not great. The big bold logos are fine though.
- I didn't specify size, I think they will just resize it appropriately to fit in that spot.

Future plan:
- Wash all the sand out.
- Anodize part or all of the frame. I did some test anodizing and could only get a few "good" colors: purple, dark blue, brown. Maybe with technique or more chemicals you can do better.
- Run internal electrical wiring for lights.

41
Frame:
Flyxii FR-603
An older model, still using QR. Frame was received with some really bad bearing seats and PF30 far out of tolerance (see post here). Since I use a threaded in the middle ZTTO bottom bracket, the out of tolerance PF30 ends up not being an issue.
This frame should have never passed QC, probably some reject they sold at a discount?

Forks:
Norco threshold
- Thru-axle 12x100, good tire clearance, seems solid. Bought second hand, new forks are crazy expensive. Also will never use a fork with holes drilled through it again (internal route), not worth risk.

Pedals:
- issi flash red color

Cranks:
- Fovno direct mount - these things are beautifully made but I feel they could fall apart if abused. In another thread on here someones aluminum axle stripped out. I wish there were other alternatives with similar colors, closest I saw that I liked was the Blackspire, which is well priced. But they never responded to my emails, and I don't need the included BB or chainring.
- ZTTO 24mm PF30 BB30SH
- Pass Quest 42T direct mount narrow-wide oval chainring - seems good so far

Wheels:
- DT 350 12x100mm hub front
- ZTTO hub QR rear, 28 hole 54t ratchet, with road cassette, good so far
- Pillar Aero1423 bladed spoke
- Pillar DSN red Al nipple
- Spank Flare 24 OC Vibrocore rim - 650b - 405g

Tire:
Gravelking SK 650b 48mm
- Other than some initial sidewall weeping, they are great. Minimal road noise considering the knobs.
- The tire is probably too big for this frame. After measuring today its about 52mm! no wonder. I'm not sure if this is due to the rim or expected for these tires. I've never heard of something being this far off spec.

Brakes:
- Juin Tech R1 mechanical disc brakes
- KEB-SL compressionless housing - recommended to use this for mechanical brakes, response is much better than normal housing.

Fender:
- SKS bluemel 53mm wide

Misc:
- old Alu handlebars
- secondhand Ti seatpost, 3x18650 battery cells inside
- secondhand Sram X1 rear derailleur
- old SRAM Rival shifters from previous bike, crazy number of km's on these and still smooth
- Vincita frame bag
- internal routed wiring + LED lights (front, seatpost, and bar ends)

42
Metal Frames / Re: Waltly Ti gravel bike build
« on: March 31, 2021, 12:56:44 AM »
Looks great.

Some similarities to what I decided on but I think your design is super clean. Please post the frame pics when they are done.

Did they mention anything about the cutouts in the 19mm tube, I didn't even consider that a possibility.

43
What is up with the chain in that second photo?
Looks like a nice setup.

44
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZRace Disc Brakes
« on: February 20, 2021, 01:07:08 AM »
I have a summary here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2985.0.html
Bought cable from ali, KEB-SL: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000345448780.html about half the price of local suppliers.


45
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet
« on: February 01, 2021, 03:08:18 PM »
Update: i broke them after about 150km of riding
 ratchet mechanism skipping

Photos of the internals please. I'm guessing it cracked?
Rider weight and max rear ring might also be relevant. I suspect if you have rear 40T vs rear 20T thats going to be half the force hitting the ratchet.

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