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Messages - rasch

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1
You do you! i considered buying one myself for many weeks, and i'm not saying it's a bad frame, in fact i think it's a great frame! i was just detailing my thought process as i figured it could be useful to some.
Enjoy your new bike and post here about your experience and impressions!

For me that's actually what is more valuable in these forums. Analysing the different reasoning and mental model different people use to select frames/bikes/products. Question them and take my conclusions and decisions.
Thanks for sharing your inputs

2
we know for a fact that rider & clothing matter more than the bike itself, it's about 80% rider and 20% bike, afaik.
That being said, a bus shaped tube is a bus shaped tube. Even without a wind tunnel, we know that tear drop / kamm tail shaped things are more aero than round things, or boxes... And we know that buses aren't aero. You wont find an aero frame with a wide, boxy shape like that, nor will you find a frame that touts its aero prowess with a boxy shape like that - until proven otherwise, ofc. Given it's an ultra light frame, and making frames of that weight at this price point is a new phenomenon, and that LC doesn't make any aero claims, i think it's safe to assume it's not aero. Whether it matters or not is subjective. But even if it "only" costs 5W at 45kmh, i try to spend my money diligently, and given how incredibly hard it is for me to raise my ftp by 5W, if i'm going to buy a frame, and if i can, i'm going to avoid buying one that screams "i'm a bus". It's a guesstimate. It's also an aesthetics consideration, as i dont find that boxy shape appealing.

As long as we all know what we are getting/building/taking, get support and are all happy that's all it matters ;)

Opinions will always be opinions :) Being it Hambini and all other (pseudo) specialists.

People spend more time online reading all the details and micro-details than actually riding the bike and enjoying the fresh air :).

3
" To be light or not to be light "; That is the question

As long as it is resistant, doesn't break and my amateur level doesn't make it flex while pushing, whatever :). The lighter the better

4
Little update, received pictures of the paint job of my frame. Sadly it apparently will take another 30 days until it arrives. But im happy how it turned out. Bought a gold KMC chain and brown leather bartape to go with it. Now i need to find a brown sadle to match it.

Nice colours! Now I am jeaolous u guys have such nice colours and I went to a "conservative" one.

5
Took me a bit longer to make this post.  Overall experience has been really good.  The fit of everything was spot on. Full build came in at 15.2 lbs without pedals (size 52).  For being that light, I am also surprised at how stiff it feels in accelerations.  My order was handled well and had great communication. I really like the color but it is more purple than I expected, but it looks great.  You can see in the sunlight it has the orangish chameleon, but the purple is the dominant color. Paint selection was LCB-02HS. Current setup is gp5000 28mm, but have a second wheelset with 32mm gp5000. One bummer is the width of handlebar options.  I went with the 40 x 110 handlebar and I have been running narrower bars and would have selected narrower, if available.

I will quickly address some of the items on this thread:
My frame has a drain hole under the BB
I will say that the layup feels pretty thin below the bottle cage on the downtube.  It is a larger tube size, but the wall thickness feels thin.
Brake caliper mounts are faced
Rear thru axle does require more torque than other frames (but doesn't appear to be any thread damage, so I don't know, not really an issue to me, but a previous poster described this).

I had to cut the seat tube to get my fit right, but just 1/2" or so.
I also ran into an issue with the seatpost clamp.  After riding I needed to adjust, and upon retorque the clamp to 6nm something with the pins that hold the bolt broke.  I have contacted LC and will update with how quickly they respond.  I am pretty sure their clamp is a tried and true design across other frames, so I am not quite sure. I want to tear it apart to see whats going on but it is kind of a captive part.


Build indeed looks quite neat.


I think I've made peace with not buying that frame. The down tube is simply too much of a square box in the wind. It can't possibly be fast, and I'm routinely doing 40+kmh on the flat so it matters to my riding. It's been helpful to see people's builds here to confirm that. The real Cannondale is nowhere near as boxy.
I also don't think it is a timeless design. That's subjective, but I feel the rim brake supersix (and first generations discs) is timeless. Along with various other frames. But not that one.
The thin downtube also raises questions a la Canyon. If you throw two bikes in the boot of the car, the last thing I want is a cracked frame in transit.
I thought I'd post because I long and seriously considered buying one.

I don't think this bike has the best design, with that I agree.
Sth simple would be better like their 007 just updated for full integrated frame etc.
I don't think we can "assess" the reliability from the frame/downtube from the "looks thin" perspective. Let's see how it holds. There are quite a few users here already with this. In any case you can also choose the non-superlight version which should be stiffer and have thicker carbon. Which option did you end up going for?

I went for this mainly for this frame for two reasons:
- Quality seems to be there (you don't really hear bad things about LC) and when it happens they seem to provide good support
- The speed and quality of their answers is top notch and only found similar at Carbonda, which had a great product too but way more expensive.

I've contacted other factories, like tantan, ltk and brokers like velobuild, etc, and tested them as well with my philosophy and only these two passed my tests with distinction. I'm not defending them.

6
HBR13 in 100mm

Thanks a lot! Indeed it's 110.
I wonder if other brands also measure it from bottom. Like canyon or etc.

I see that LC says they measure from "under" because of the stem angle being 10º

7
N.b: pay attention to the size of the handlebars when you order, the length is calculated on the bottom and with an angle of -10°, a length of 100 below measures about 110 on top

Nice catch! Didn't notice that. I wonder how other brands do it. Still wondering though if I should go 110 instead of the 100mm

Your build looks neat.

I ordered 2x GP5000 in 32. Wanna ride comfy ahaha

8
Seemingly like everyone else, I'm planning to build a gravel bike in the next couple of months. Currently in the process of rebuilding a commuter with some L-Twoo eR9 and parts, and then will get going.

My plan is to build something similar in capability to a Canyon Grizl...50mm+ tyre clearance (ideally MTB wheels), and (assuming I get on with the eR9) I'll probably plump for the eGR 1x12 (which I believe limits me to a 46-tooth rear). A screw-in BB (BSA or T47) is a must, due to previous experences with pressfit BB's. THis would be my first prmiarily chinese build...I've used wheels and occasional components before, but never a full build.

The LightCarbon LCG071S-D looks promising
https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-carbon-gravel-frameset-with-integrated-stem-system_p171.html

...however I'm only used to ordering off AliExpress, and I cannot find a LightCarbon presence on there, so struggling to get an idea of cost. Do you have to contact the company directly?

I've also found this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005678330464.html

Which looks good, but for this struggling to find any reviews or opinions.

Finally, I see a lot of notes on vouchers and discount codes...is there anywhere to find these?


Lightcarbon is pretty well known and that model even has a topic on this forum. I'm ordering a road frame from them and considering adding one of those gravel frames too for a future build. The only think keeping me from ordering it already is that I don't like it much.. There are other better looking frames for my taste :)

9
Hello dear friends, have a nice day! As the carbon wheelsets market continues to evolve, our factory is ready to start building a new batch of carbon wheelset molds. What is your Dream carbon wheelset? Please give your suggestions generously, including carbon wheelset type, inner and outer width, weight requirements, spokes and hubs, etc. Effective and practical suggestions will be adopted and surprise gifts will be given to you! Please actively participate! Thank you very much for your suggestions!

First of all props to you Leon for doing a market benchmark. Means you are smart and also doing it by feeling through what people say is what people do.

My 2 cents are the following. 1 improve your website, 2 have some fully prebuilt options rather than leaving everything for the end user (most won't understand much than
a) how they look,
b) how much they weight
c) how much they cost
d) how deep they are

Yes, you'll always have people who want fully custom bla bla bla. That's about creating and developing a super nice wheel online configurator. Much better that lightbycicle. Text me if you need help on this.

Anyway market seems to follow the trend:
1- Wavy and non wavy wheels
2- Light. Weight matters
3- Different carbon layups
4- Medium low noise hubs
5- Larger outter width. Minimum most people use nowadays is 28, and most are shifting to 30 and 32 - the larger the frame allows. Internal width minimum 21.
6- Rim brakes u probably know best the market but not sure it's worth any development in that direction.
7- Stiffness/spokes confort vs Stiffness vs maintenance
8- Dropshipping/warehouse inside the EU for faster delivery and receiving.
9- wheels for ebikes with some bits and bytes

This is a mix between business advice and wheel but I think u get the point. This industry is not so focused on this. Opportunity is not in the wheels itself;)

10
When you compress this headset, the space no longer exists. I saw these comments and so I bought another set of spacer on Ali. By simply putting it down, there was no gap. Also, when I compressed the headset, the handlebars wouldn't turn anymore because they were too tight. So I came back with the initial headset which is well tuned. I'll be posting pictures soon. I'm currently testing the bike

Great to hear thst and looking forward to see your pics

11
Same here, a hole underneath the BB, for the fork, have not seen any.

Thanks to both.
Maybe it was the first frame builds. As regards the fork dunno. Some user a while back complained about a big gap between the frame and the spacers. I guess water can go in. Anyway I don't ride in the rain ahaha. It's more concerning when cleaning/washing it

12
So, my build is done.


Nice!

Is it size 56?

I ordered the frame already too in size 58 (0mm setback and 100mm stem).
Saw some posts of people complaining about the fact that the frame has no "hole" To release water either in the frame or in the fork, yet still decided to test it.

13
Why not buy both models (0 and 20). A seatpost costs around 50-60USD;  On short saddles (approx. 245 cm), you have fewer adjustment possibilities compared to a 275 cm saddle


Thanks! I've made some quick calculations on https://www.bikegeocalc.com and I'm going for 0 setback and 100mm stem. It'll still be more aggressive than the bikes I have but should be fine ahaha. Let's hope. Fingers crossed.

Let's see now how long it will take to deliver

14
If you dont know the site, play around with https://geometrygeeks.bike/. Will let you compare bikes' geometries, it's extremely helpful.
Height alone means very little. I'm 184 and i now ride medium frames because i have long legs (saddle height of c.81cm). I also have fairly long arms, so i can fit myself on large frames, but i have a short torso, so i'm actually more comfortable to push watts on a medium than a large, with fairly high stack because my saddle to bar drop is pretty extreme. If in doubt, always, always go smaller rather than larger. I just sold a giant propel in L that was always a tad too big for me. Tragic, because that bike was amazing. Had i bought a M/L i probably would not have upgraded.
If you ride on the flat a lot and are comfortable in aero positions, probably best to take a 0 offset post, will get you more vertical on the BB, a la TT bike.

Thanks. Unfortunately it's quite hard for me to assess since my other bikes are completely different ahah. Will try to get access to a canyon ultimate L size. Apparently they have very similar geometries.

I'm pretty comfy on the endurace for example L size, which is basically the same of all endurace. I know this one is more agressive, but just wonder really the difference on those 2 things. 110 stem and the seatpost setback. Bike size is definitely the 58.

I can imagine though thst with 0 setback I can still play with the seat sth like 15mm back. Will see but place the order in any case.

15
Ok. I've decided to give this frame a trial.

Will be using an old 105 7020 I got laying around. How is this bike fit? Does it fit on the bigger size or lower?

I'm 1.89 so I am going for the 58 for sure, just not sure about stem 100 or 110 and seatpost setback 0 or 20.

I'm not going to do any racing so I'd rather go more to a neutral approach. My usual rides are on endurance bikes like the carbonda 1056.

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