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Messages - Nickk2000

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1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Frames For Tall People
« on: April 21, 2024, 05:10:43 PM »
I have the x34 currently, i am 6’7. I feel hunched over but its a solid frame, the paint isnt durable though but no chinese frame is.
If youre 6’3 itd probably fit you. I run 120/440

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: VB-R-168 & FSA SMR stem
« on: November 20, 2022, 09:48:21 PM »
The FSA SMR (assuming you mean ACR/SMR) system uses a similar, but different top/headset cover and c-clip design than the supplied hardware from VeloBuild.

If you choose to use FSA's ACR system you will need the following:

1. ACR Top Cover / NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD headset system.
2. An FSA ACR stem or ACR integrated 1-piece cockpit.
3. Any ACR spacers if the headset system does not include them.
4. Most likely a thinner upper headset for the headtube opening, because the ACR system in general leaves quite a bit of "gap" between the new top cover and the headtube. The supplied ACR c-clip is pretty thickkkk.

A few folks in here have been able been to use a hybrid mix of both Velobuild and ACR headset hardware. Just depends how deep down the rabbit hole you wanna go. The stuff listed about will at least get you where you need to be.
Can you use any handlebar with the stem or are you limited to the fsa brand?

3
Thanks. Yes, admittedly, I'm not at all well versed on geometry and I did notice that the tubes seemed more geared towards weight savings in some and aero in others. 

I currently ride a 2011 S-works SL3 with R7000 105 components. Rim brake, obviously. It's on its way out and I'm not that happy about what you get for your money from the LBS these days, so want to build up my own bike. Not just for the cost savings, but also for the learning experience.  I thought I'd go with some frames that were similar to the SL7 but obviously I've missed the mark. I'm obviously many years older now, and I'm wondering if my reach has shortened a bit.  I'm also heavy enough that the weight savings from a very lightweight frame will be wasted on me. I'd rather go with a frame that is a bit heavier but well made and remains stiffer for longer.  I don't race apart from a couple of 160km sportive's per year, so happy to go with a more endurance type bike.

I know this is a very open-ended and question, but if you do have any suggestions about a frame that might be a good match, let me know. Thanks.

Dengfu fm098?

4
Both dengfu and tantan have very similar cockpits for example but i cant find the i tegrated stem option from the picture. Im lokking for the specific stem name/widely available for where to buy it. Every company ive seen only has it in 120mm. Lightcarbon has the same bar/stem setup as shown. If anyone can help track down if theres a 130/140 option id really appreciate it!

5
I have Force Etap, so I can't give you an advice  :D
Ditto.

It probably would be above I'd imagine.
Also, Caroline (TanTan) reached out and said the x34 is 6-8nm on the seat post wedge. the 10-12 seemed too high so I reached out to see what she said, and 6-8 is what she recommended.

6
I agree that wera/tekton are gonna be your best bet if you want quality.

Personally I use harbor freights "Pittsburgh". They have a t handle set and it gets it tight enough to where I then use a torque wrench if needed.

Wera/Tekton is definitely shop quality, more than an at home mechanic would need, but that's my personal opinion, both are solid choices.

7
Hey guys  :)

I was also thinking about buying the 218. But then I ordered the TT x34. So here are some intensions:

1. the buying process and contact to Rose was nice
2. then it took a long time till the frame was produced, painted and sent. excuses like: the painter is on vacation, the shipping agent forgot the package...
3. the painting and everything was fine. I finished the build and after 3 I had a strange feeling with the handlebar width. I measured my handlebar and it was 440/100, but I ordered 400/100. I had a long discussion, because Rose said that I have to pay for the handlebar, but it was the mistake of Tantan. After one week Rose said that's I will get a handlebar, but I have to sell the false handlebar and send her the money. Because 400/100 was not in stock I choose 400/110
4. I also had problems with slipping seat post. I asked Rose she said that the typical torque is 10 Nm and I can go up to 12 Nm.

But all in all im very happy with the bike 8) 8)

This is very different from my experience. I set the order up, i paid, said it was a 28 day lead time and it was shipped out in like 2.5-3 weeks, but its also that red and black fade color scheme, so it mightve been mass produced, but they seemed friendly and had no “excuses”

As for the NM torque of the seatpost, thats so freaking high are you sure about it being 10+ nm for rhe seatpost? I was thinking 5-6.

8
I been looking at this frame or TT-X33. Just curious where did you buy your frame through Tantan website or Alix?

Went through tantan directly but they had me pay through their alibaba store sending me a link. Which is weird, i did PP through alibaba, but it surprises me they did alibaba, because id assume they get a cut of the $850 or whatever i spent.

9
Im running 25’s. I got PLENTY of room. Probably could run 32’s comfortably, but i have no desire to find out as its a road bike.

10
Make sure you use some carbon grease when installing the seat post. Also, if it has paint or clear coat over it, sanding it down to increase the grip of surface area may help.

Read the post. It says i used carbon paste.

I did try the sanding but i was too lazy to see if it slips. It takes a pretty big bump for it to get knocked loose and the tapes a better solution.

11
Just curious. I believe you also considered vbr 218. What made you choose ttx34? Also, how would you rate stiffness?

218 geometry is too aggressive. Its a carbon frame, its stiff. Not much to add.

12
What makes AXS drivetrains to need special care?

The spacing inbetween the seatstays makes it so whenever the 10t cog is being spun the chain rubs on the frame slightly, it has removed the paint. I remedied this by sandwiching a spacer on the r12. The x34 is fine though.

13
All: please note on the r12 you need to sandwich 2 spacers inbetween the dropout threads and the cassette if youre running AXS due to it being made in early 2019. The x34 has enough room to support axs drivetrains without requiring ingenuity, and the shifting is crisp due to this, no spacer needed.

14
thank you for this feedback. How does this bike compare to your Dengfu R12 in terms of weight and ride impression?

The r12 is slightly less twitchy and the paint job seems to have been slightly better on the r12, both subpar, but expected from sub $800 carbon bikes, theyre meant to be a “presentation” more than protection. Geometry is slightly more aggressive which might be why its more twitchy.

15
Hey guys, bought the tantan x34 which looks like a trek madone, different seat post and handlebar setup.

Some of you guys may consider this an endurance geometry, but im 6'7 and I need 600+ stack and 600+ reach, this is about as aero as I can comfortably go.

So here's the review. There's 4 things I'd like to talk about, three are important, one is a nuisance.

1. The seat post is so wide/thick, it won't fit into my clamp-style maintenance stand. I have a stand like the PRS 3.3-1, same exact clamping mechanism. The top tube and seat tube are likely not going to fit either, but I never would try those two personally because its not meant to be used like that.
2. Because the seat post didn't fit I laid the frame on top of the clamping mechanism with towels but during installation they shifted, causing the aluminum to meet the carbon and rub, which hurt the paint job/chipped it, and so forth. Now on a more expensive name-brand frame the paint job is likely going to be better and not have this happen, but this paint job looks solid, but it's not that durable. I hit it lightly with an Allen wrench by mistake moving the wrench from a chair to the handlebar area to tighten it and I chipped the top tubes paint.
3. The front derailleur is slightly misaligned, at least on mine and in my experience. I don't know if mines just a defect. Its probably not an issue if you run mechanical because boomaye on here ran ultegra on the dengfu r12, which I had/have (broken). I, on the other hand, with force etap axs have to use an angled spacer. https://osymetricusa.3dcartstores.com/ANGLED-WEDGE-SPACER_p_47.html
4. The seat post has been slipping, ive been 5+ miles from home where it's slipped down to the bottom and I look like an idiot riding it. The way I remedied this is by putting scotch tape (masking/tan tape) in-between the wedge and the seat post, the sticky part is against the wedge. This can be because the wedge isn't rough, its smooth so there isn't a lot of friction to help it, or the seapost/frame isn't properly made, but the little hack I talked about has been working for the last 100-150 miles without flaw. The seat post also comes with that sandpaper-type thing glued/built into it, but doesn't change the fact it slips. been torqued to spec (6 nm, assuming 6 is the proper tightness, don't feel like trying higher) and with carbon paste.
The handlebar/cockpit setup is just like the dengfu r12, in fact I think the handlebar is from the same exact supplier, nothing proprietary about it. If I needed I could use a spacer from my r12 on here, but I don't need to.
Overall though, bikes held up, it's extremely twitchy, disc brakes line up fine, nothing else to really talk about. Any questions feel free to comment.

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