Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: ejump0 on February 17, 2024, 08:59:41 AM
-
So back in Jan i place an order for TT912 via TanTan website contact thru whatsapp. After confirming the bike parts n confirm colour, paid it n wait for it to arrive.
My frame arrived last week.
Frame: TT912 with swapped cockpit. Instead of integrated kit, i went split stem n basebar. also swapped for carbon extensions
BB: Ztto bb386-24 normal bearing
Brake lever: Tektro TL720
Shifter: Microshift bs-a11
RD: 105 r7000 ss
Saddle: Chiner ism pl1.1
Brake caliper: Onirii BR-05
Wheelset n cranks will come from my current bike. i havent decide on crank lenght yet, but it will be in 1x:
wheelset: parcours chrono 77/86
cog: 105 11-28
crank: 105 r7000 50-34
Unfortunately the extension bar sent was wrong n few screws missing for stem cap. will be sent later (i may need to return current extensions). Paint job was good, but unfortunately theres a scratch on fork, probably during photoshoot (they made a vid on their insta/youtube).
As of right now im stuck with the basebar internal route hole on left side is obstructed cable cant go thru
-
More pics.
The FD hanger is removable. And on toptube(i forgot to snap pic), theres some kind of batt holder for di2. Its removable, so i removed it to drop weight
some scratch n chip only on fork. i did address to TanTan rep(a lil dissapointed after paying a lot for paintjob), but probably will cover with clear nail polish.
However pics n vid doesnt really justify the painjob. They even put glitter bits that shines under bright light.
the yellow circle is where housing gets stuck. im still poking with metal wire to grind whatever in there to enlarge the route :'(
/inner cable can go thru, but shifter/brake end big-bulb thing will get stuck
weights:
frame (with batt holder n fd hanger removed) +fork(steerer cut) + stem: 2.71kg
stem alone: 379g
frame only(batt holder n fd hanger still attached) : 1.6kg
*forgot to measure fork only
-
Since today is monday, i communicated about my basebar issue.
The rep will sort out a replacement basebar for me.
More pics on the saddle post mechanism. n said batt holder that goes inside top tube from the opening in front of saddle post
The saddle cage holder is full angle adjustable, n usable in single or dual bottle cage mode
/oh well, my build is further delayed
-
Hi,
good job so far. Did you experience any other issues yet? Like bottom bracket not precisely cut/grinded out, etc? How much was the paint job?
Looks sick btw.
I was thinking about either getting the TT912 as well as the frame set, or choose the complete bike for 2500€ on ali and then replace/upgrade parts bit by bit
cheers!
-
Hi,
good job so far. Did you experience any other issues yet? Like bottom bracket not precisely cut/grinded out, etc? How much was the paint job?
Looks sick btw.
I was thinking about either getting the TT912 as well as the frame set, or choose the complete bike for 2500€ on ali and then replace/upgrade parts bit by bit
cheers!
Hi there
Thanks. The TanTan IG vid already made the frame looks stunning.
this paintjob was charged usd280. i believe they have tiered paint job pricing (mono colour, twin color, full funky pattern etc). Originally i was going for full budget build n thinking to just stay original black. But 1 of my colleague talked me into making it unique n dont too cheap out on something that probably lasts years :P
So far i have not installed the bb yet as it will be last step. but the consensus with chiner frame(at least discused on bb thread here) is to go with threaded bb as this will help align straight. I hope i dont have loose cup issue.
Originally i wanted to go 1x 12 setup, but there is no mechanical 12sp bar-end shifter solution so i settled for 11sp. I dont know about other countries policy, but where im at items below ~usd300 are import-tax exempted. Thus buying parts saperately greatly saved me a lot, as im only taxed on frame (already had the wheels).
if you are considering full bike offering, maybe you could engage communication with them on option for certain part swaps possibility (you save the hassle of fitting issue of said part, china-china cheaper shipment etc)
-
Tire fittings. will it clear larger than 28mm?
I think so.
Based on observation with my 28mm Gp5k on Chrono 77/86, it can clear 30mm, n perhaps even 32mm on wide rims
edit: add pic a mock setup, what the bike might looks like once its done (minus fitting, as i wont set up fit like that :P )
-
Really cool to see a TT-build on here! It looks great!
Was briefly looking into this aswell a couple of weeks ago. But like you found out, there really isn't a good option for 1x12 unless you go the Di2 of AXS route. Which gets expensive really quick!
Didn't think of Microshift as a solution though!
Good luck with the build!
-
That looks GANGSTA!
I suspect you're light and small, otherwise you wouldn't use a 50/34 on a TT bike, but FYI, you can get a REAR 140 to 180mm adaptor for cheap these days. Peak Torque sells expensive ones (I'm sure they're wonderful) but I found a cheap REAR one on bikeinn, and with mechanical brakes at the very least, bigger disks are better. I'm yet to find affordable front adaptors.
I've built 4 bikes with these brakes, and 5 bikes with hydraulic brakes.
I've used this very same BB.
I tried using these bottles but they flew off the bike, they lasted me 1 ride.
Best of luck with the mechanical shifting, will be curious to hear how it's working.
Kudos on the KEB-SL compressionless Jagwire brake housing, I've used that too, and you can absolutely feel the difference compared to cheaper housing.
It's a pity you're stuck in the middle of the build because of seller's mistakes though.
Keep us posted.
-
Really cool to see a TT-build on here! It looks great!
Was briefly looking into this aswell a couple of weeks ago. But like you found out, there really isn't a good option for 1x12 unless you go the Di2 of AXS route. Which gets expensive really quick!
Didn't think of Microshift as a solution though!
Good luck with the build!
Thanks
Yup, theres not many more recent thread on TT/Tri bike build.
Hope my thread can be of some help for this specific frame.
While this frame is kind of old(Disc ver rehash 2020) the fat tubes profile still made it look menacing these days.
Where i live, a used Speedmax CF7 disc goes at silly price. So im better off build a bike from scratch n move over some parts from my aluminium TCR.
This is my 1st carbon bike, and 2nd bike ever :)
Regarding 12sp mechanical shifting, Microshift does have 12sp mtb 'friction+index' bar-end shifter.
But i dont feel like want to venture on 1x mtb RD setup, as im not familiar with them and let alone fiddling with friction shifting(in event cant figure indexing properly) while on the aero extensions.
The Microshift BS-A11 is index shifter only for Shimano RD, so you still have clicks. And its magnitude cheaper than SRAM or Shimano shifter.
For 12sp mech, the cassete still limited choice. the new Ultegra 11-30 was relevant to my interest, as it has 16T sprocket, thus 11 to 17T are in 1teeth step.
For now i'll just settle with 11-28T 11sp that i already have.
Crank wise i havent decide yet. My TCR is with 170mm lenght + left Xcadey powermeter. Thats why i got myself BB386-24 so i can temporarily borrow the crank over and do test 'FEEL'.
Im thinking to try 165 on this Tri bike and get Stone or PassQuest 54T chainring
-
That looks GANGSTA!
I suspect you're light and small, otherwise you wouldn't use a 50/34 on a TT bike, but FYI, you can get a REAR 140 to 180mm adaptor for cheap these days. Peak Torque sells expensive ones (I'm sure they're wonderful) but I found a cheap REAR one on bikeinn, and with mechanical brakes at the very least, bigger disks are better. I'm yet to find affordable front adaptors.
I've built 4 bikes with these brakes, and 5 bikes with hydraulic brakes.
I've used this very same BB.
I tried using these bottles but they flew off the bike, they lasted me 1 ride.
Best of luck with the mechanical shifting, will be curious to hear how it's working.
Kudos on the KEB-SL compressionless Jagwire brake housing, I've used that too, and you can absolutely feel the difference compared to cheaper housing.
It's a pity you're stuck in the middle of the build because of seller's mistakes though.
Keep us posted.
Thanks.
Im 178cm 66kg.
The 50/34 will be temporary, as im considering Stone/PastQuest 54T.
On compact crank on my TCR, i usually spend time in 13-17T on flats solo on clip-on Tri-bar (Singapore pretty much flat).
For now i think i'll stick to 140 rotors (theyre mt900), n explore better pads because its flat here.
But in the event i dont really have enough stopping power on this bike, can be upgraded later.
Yup, theres a brake thread on this forum discussing the KEB-SL, so its best to do it right while its easy to route the cables.
For bottles, i have the XLAB Torpedo 200 bta. I probably use that as it has straw right to the face.
Alternatively, the reason why i went for this 2-piece stem+basebar instead of the original offered cockpit, is because on Falco old pics, this stem can fit ProfileDesign Aeria headtube hydration(i have option to go this route) 8)
/and i can install the basebar sweep-upwards ala-startrek ;D
yup, kinda sad the build is delayed.
but at least the manufacturer is willing to help me out. ;)
/its my 1st self build bike, n i got hard-mode :'(
-
sup all.
my replacement cockpit part arrived last weekend, so i managed to work bit by bit till today (due to work n training).
however after installing the brakes, found out i have rocking headset issue (front-back).
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/s/N5MEGIYQbd
theres a thread here giving some tips, so i'll be trying them.
lets hope i dont have bb issue too
my seatpost may need some cutting. thats the lowest it can currently go
-
i finally completed all the necessary stuff to get the bike ridable, except....
the seat post is too high :'(
unfortunately i dont have tools to cut the seat post.
i tried to play around with my other saddle that has lower rail height, but still no go. the saddle clamp mech also contributed to extra height. i need to cut like 5cm.
the headset rocking has been reduced, but still rocking a bit. i put some thick frame protection film insert as filler on front n back to top n bottom cup. then use some plumbers tape to get the bearing sit snug.
also i found out about top tube height. without the bento box my crotch is fine not touching with ample gap, but with bento box its touching. i forgot to take into acc bento box height :'(
i guess i need to go to shop to sort the saddle post n headset :-[
edit:
it seems theres some seam carbon layup preventing the post to further down. the post might able to further down if i file those off.
is the purpose of that seam as a stopper? its around seatstay
-
That frame looks great, love the colour! I've been looking for a tt frame too, but was a bit underwhelmed by the choices available. It seems that road frames go with the time, while barely any supplier updates the tt frames any more.
What kind of mounts/storage does this one have? Bento box on the top tube? Maybe even something for a 3d printed rear box?
-
My housemate happens to have a dremel, so decided to cut the seatpost instead, n keep the seat-tube inner seam for protection.
i still need to figure the headset issue. but did a test ride to adjust position, man it felt so different than on my tcr. im so far forward my leg almost straight down. hip angle seemed so much open even on 170 cranks.
if i were to get 165, i cant use my existing crank PM. hmm..
also far chainring im not sure to go 54T or settle for 52T Stone/PassQuest.. hmm
That frame looks great, love the colour! I've been looking for a tt frame too, but was a bit underwhelmed by the choices available. It seems that road frames go with the time, while barely any supplier updates the tt frames any more.
What kind of mounts/storage does this one have? Bento box on the top tube? Maybe even something for a 3d printed rear box?
yup, its kinda limited for chiner TT frame options as opposed to RB.
i shortlisted a winow frame, this, and BXT.
in the end i went for this as the design is used by Yeoleo T9, despite a 2019 design. still looks multitude better than speedmax cf7 or p-series base model.
storage wise, theres a small in-frame storage triangle in front of seatpost (the triangle between toptube n seattube). theres also di2 batt holder inside the toprube, accessed from this triangle storage.
the toptube has 2 boss holes for profile design bento box use or whatever you wanna mount. it can become 4 holes if you remove the screw holding the di2 batt cage.
in the triangle, theres only 2 boss mount bottle on downtube.
originally this frame came with different integrated stem+basebar. but i opted to switch to older split stem+basebar as i want to flip the basebar upward.
as for the seatpost, original kit does not xome with that cage holder, so its an additional part,(i saw on falco website this existed).
i believe under another brand of same frame, theres another seatpost type where you can attach a cage holder ala speedmax style (see Sam Laidlow bike)
the custom paintjob is by TanTan, icecrack blue. actually it also have glitter effect. no chance yet for photoshoot
this is my 1st bike i build from scratch. didnt anticipate too much trouble n hickups, but its a learning process for meq
-
#asscrack blue.
A 5 dollar hacksaw from any diy store will cut a seatpost. Just throw the blade afterwards. Bigger teeth cut faster. For a seatpost you don't actually need to be precise. Dremel is next level imprecise though, I hope you wore a mask.
I don't understand the issues with the headset play but if it means you have to fill the bearings seats with random crap hoping the bearings sit properly, that's kind of textbook frame you should send back?
Front ring: if in doubt, go bigger. First of all, it will impress the ladies. Second. It's more efficient. Third. You can get a bigger cassette. 4th. You should aim to ride in the middle of the cassette when you're pushing, not the smallest cogs, so go big. I have an oval 56T on mine and I don't know why I ever had smaller. And I largely suck.
-
#asscrack blue.
A 5 dollar hacksaw from any diy store will cut a seatpost. Just throw the blade afterwards. Bigger teeth cut faster. For a seatpost you don't actually need to be precise. Dremel is next level imprecise though, I hope you wore a mask.
I don't understand the issues with the headset play but if it means you have to fill the bearings seats with random crap hoping the bearings sit properly, that's kind of textbook frame you should send back?
Front ring: if in doubt, go bigger. First of all, it will impress the ladies. Second. It's more efficient. Third. You can get a bigger cassette. 4th. You should aim to ride in the middle of the cassette when you're pushing, not the smallest cogs, so go big. I have an oval 56T on mine and I don't know why I ever had smaller. And I largely suck.
i finally solved my headset issue. yay
i was re-reading tip#3 here few times(https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3781.0.html) , then it recalled to me the supplies headset did came with those micro spacers. back then i dont know what it was.
fit it between c-ring n stem, now all tight ;)
thanks for the tip. my housemade did the cut for me, with mask. reddit recommend me to also cut off the flat D-part of the seatpost base to a slope, so in event the post slipped down, it wont puncture the seattube indent part. will fix that when my housemate is free.
on my roadbike i spend most my time in 13-17. with your recommendation, i will go with 54T, straight chainline at race pace considering im now on a more capable bike in the wind :)
-
So i had a breaking-in spin last Wed evening at a small loop in industrial zone where i live in this 90% form. its comfortable in aero position, though due to the brake lever now a lil further to reach, it took a while to get used to it. by 23km, ratling got loud. the angle-riser got loose, whole right extension was moving around. called it a day.
1st impressions:
- friggin stiff.. this is my 1st ever carbon bike, n 2nd time ridden a carbon bike (1st was a rental bike in Jeju for round-island solo attempt, Gusto RCR on 23mm tires).
- maybe it felt so stiff coz i havent install bar tapes. but i think i need to put some paddings at the wrist area on the curved extension. on uneven road, my wrist n watch was rocking against the hard carbon
- i need to cut the saddle post more. the clamp mechanism really gave few extra cm height.
- i havent weighted my bike, but its heavy. maybe coz low tier components, oh well. at least it had momentum once it got to speed
- sketch in crosswind. to be expected is the tubes are so much fatter against my TCR
- braking with mech disc onirii+compressionless jagwire is good. the bite is gradual. comparable to my Giant Conduct hydraulics on my tcr. not sure whats the faff that mech+disc is crap. (granted my test is in dry on flats)
- sizing wise, stack n reach seemed fine, though the top tube height is a lil high for my liking ince i install the bento box. going one size down i may end with shorter reach as this frame inly have 100mm stem max
Sorted both angle riser with propper torque.
Now to fit my Xlab torpedo base plate, i had to extend my aero extension bar to max, and the clamp still dont sit properly. its the arm cup design as its not flat inside.
Also swapped to my Chiner Pro stealth saddle temporarily as its few cm lower
needs longer ride on the weekend.
its really a head turner lol ;D
-
My experiences with those brakes are really bad. They work OK in the beginning, but after a while and after a few bad weather rides they became very bad. Switched to hydraulic and I will never ever buy cable actuated disc brakes again.
-
Looks awesome, well done!
The whole thing looks stiff indeed. That seatpost is scary, i dont see how anything can deflect, so good thing you have fat tyres and steel spokes and not carbon ones. Make sure you follow recommended PSI and dont go italian by putting 100psi in 32C tyres. I have italian friends, i stopped trying to explain to them that it makes no sense to over inflate big tyres. Good, big tyres at the right PSI completely change a bike.
Such a chonly boi will never be light, if you check out triathlon forums, you will see people's bikes are super heavy, comes with the territory.
The bike looks like a sail, for sure it's going to be awful in cross winds :) Be careful when you see trucks, you can get pushed or sucked in hard on something like that, try not to die.
Thanks for taking the time to post, it's great to see Chinese TT frames.
-
Really great to see updates on this, the price of TT bikes at the moment is painful. I would love to know the actual weight of this and if you manage to sort the rattling / things getting loose
-
I still need to revisit the Versa BTA plate. its rocking against the arm cup, making annoying noises.
i will probably swapped the armcup to the ones on my Controltech aerobar kit on my TCR(currently the bolt is siezed).
swapped to my old tcr giant approach saddle, since its lower stack. i may be in market for a short-nose saddle as my aliEx Pro Stealth saddle base getting soft n saggy
btw, this frameset used Sram UDH style hanger.
I finally got the bike completed, minus the temp crankset 8)
im a lil afraid to do bike photoshoot since its like a flag/sail, can topple at anytime when theres wind ::)
Frame: TanTan TT912 size52 + IceCrack blue paintjob
Stem: TanTan alu stem 100mm
Basebar: TanTan HB096 400mm
Aero extension: TanTan HB086 44° + 80mm w/ 15° angled riser
Brake lever: Tektro TL720
Saddle: Giant Approach (from tcr)
Crankset: 105R7000 170mm (from tcr)
Chainring: 50/34T (from tcr)
PM: xcadey xpower2 left crank 170mm (from tcr)
BB: ztto bb386-24 normal bearing
Shifter: Microshift BS-A11
RD: 105R7000 SS
Cassette: 105R7000 11-28
Wheelset: Parcours Chrono 77/86
Rotors: 140mm MT-RT900
Caliper: Onirii BR005 mechanical
Looks awesome, well done!
The whole thing looks stiff indeed. That seatpost is scary, i dont see how anything can deflect, so good thing you have fat tyres and steel spokes and not carbon ones. Make sure you follow recommended PSI and dont go italian by putting 100psi in 32C tyres. I have italian friends, i stopped trying to explain to them that it makes no sense to over inflate big tyres. Good, big tyres at the right PSI completely change a bike.
Such a chonly boi will never be light, if you check out triathlon forums, you will see people's bikes are super heavy, comes with the territory.
The bike looks like a sail, for sure it's going to be awful in cross winds :) Be careful when you see trucks, you can get pushed or sucked in hard on something like that, try not to die.
Thanks for taking the time to post, it's great to see Chinese TT frames.
Currently im still on 28mm gp5k front n back. once the rear worn out, definately gonna fit in 32mm. the cockpit felt a lil better now with the bartapes.
Since i already have the frame, folks can just AMA ;)
Really great to see updates on this, the price of TT bikes at the moment is painful. I would love to know the actual weight of this and if you manage to sort the rattling / things getting loose
in SG even 2nd hand tri bike market going at silly price for the age of the bike. my build(minus parcours wheelset) literally can get almost 2 new speedmax cf7 105 mech.
the headset rattling issue was sorted with the micro spacers that i forgot.
tomorrow i'll weight the bike
edit: it weights 10.3kg equipped as in pic. bta not yet attached.
heavy AF.
i did considered a lightweight build ala Sebastian Kienle Norseman Tri scott foil tt-cockpit, but decided to go proper tri frame geo
-
From looking around a lot of TT bikes are around 9.0-10.5kg for mechanical, so it seems pretty comparable to an entry level TT bike. Its pretty tempting to get one
-
today i just ordered the 54T Passquest ring and 105r7000 170 right arm crank on aliEx sales. 165 is too expensive for both side arms. expect arrival in 2weeks.
Where im at Speedmax CF7 forever notavailable, and importing Q.Roo PR or Cervelo Pseries will make em so expensive after shipping n tax. not much option for disc brake bike in local marketplace, though today i found a few expensive used pseries. the cf7 is advertised as 9.4kg. not sure how its 0.9kg lighter than my bike .. hmm...
btw, today i found out this tantan extension bar is factory/copy of profile design asc aerobar
-
Any chance you can post a photo of the rear of the seatpost / saddle clamp? Curious to see if it's 10mm rail accessory compatible.
-
yesterday the headset felt a lil loose(probably the bearings now has seated properly in the cups).
opened the stem cover n found my rear brake housing has been rubbing the notch. i did the housing a lil extra long anticipating easy stem disassembly to put into bag(the fork can be fully removed from head tube for easy bottom headset bearing access). put a bit of film protector tape hope it will mitigate the rubs
Any chance you can post a photo of the rear of the seatpost / saddle clamp? Curious to see if it's 10mm rail accessory compatible.
will these do?
-
Hey ejump0,
Hope you're fine and still rocking that blue rocket! Thanks for all the detailed pictures in this thread, I'm considering building a Chinese tt as well and I'm looking into this frame aswell as the velobuild tt023. Could you maybe share some pictures of the storage compartment by the seatube? How large is it?
Honestly speaking, I prefer the look of the velobuild frame, but it does not come with any storage whatsoever. What other frames did you consider before going for the tt912?
Cheers!
-
currently is still having issues with headset. i believe the 2pieces micro spacers were not enough. after few rides the headset rocking again. temp solution is using my 5mm spacer till my ordered 1mm n 2mm arrives.
also turned out my Racework saddle(aeolus copy) gave best comfort. but having issue the clamp always getting loose(happens with other saddles too). am waiting for loctite blue to arrive
Hey ejump0,
Hope you're fine and still rocking that blue rocket! Thanks for all the detailed pictures in this thread, I'm considering building a Chinese tt as well and I'm looking into this frame aswell as the velobuild tt023. Could you maybe share some pictures of the storage compartment by the seatube? How large is it?
Honestly speaking, I prefer the look of the velobuild frame, but it does not come with any storage whatsoever. What other frames did you consider before going for the tt912?
Cheers!
Hi matt
the storage at the seatpost is kinda narrow. attached are references using kmc chain box. its that narrow. you can fit tpu tube n hex-keys, but not quite some-bulky multitool or e-pump. not sure co2 cartrige fits as i dont use em. if you have short-skinny handpump, maybe might fit at where they design di2 batt would go(top tube, under bento box
back then i considered these frames:
- hongfu/dengfu
- avenger tm6
- velobuild
- winow/bxt tri frame
- tt912/915
i ended with 912 as it looked the most modern,with fat forks. and this frame design also used by Yeoleo T9/T9s, so kinda larger userbase.
tantan just released tt913, check that out.
-
my thin spacers arrived on Friday.
the original 2x 0.3mm wasnt enough, so i tried 1mm. it seemed to do the trick. i also solved my bta cage rubbing the arm cup by using 7mm washers to raise the bottle cage. Also changed the saddle again, this time using shortnose Racework(bontrager aeolus). Nose shorter n lil wider than the Giant Approach.
today for the 1st time this year i went to the coastal road(theres 8km stretch) to test the speed.
the bike is so stiff, but crazy fast. i could ave 39kmh solo 16km loop without hitting max hr. my cycling fitness is subpar coming after fasting month, but i beat my TCR pb by a whole minute.
with this my bike is funtionally complete n ready for race. yey
just to share, i managed to get my SS RD to work with 11-34 casette by having that chain long. its for just in case i need climbing gear on some race course. for now im mostly on 15-17cog on 11-28
-
after gettin frustrated by occasional road debris stapler n nail punctures esp on my rear gp5k 28mm, decided to slap on punture resistant clincher GP4season 32mm.
it seemed to fit, altho kinda sketchy on the non-drive side chainstay with 2mm clearance, while drive side have like 3mm clearance (may improve as tire thread wears out i guess). wheel arch has plenty clearance.
*Rim has 22.5mm internal width
tubeless tire just still silly expensive.
pumped the rear to 60psi, super comfort