Thanks for the suggestion, but I dont see anything that would fit.  I was going to try to find a sex bolt with a 10mm OD sleeve, but those are hard to come by.

I wound up ordering a half meter length of 10mm OD 8mm ID Titanium tubing, which I should be able to press fit inside the new bolt.  I've done similar modification to rear hub axles, and it helped substantially.  Just one of the many perils of being a clyde cyclist.

Quote from: GuitsBoy on November 10, 2017, 02:13:02 PM

Cant say for 100% certain, but I have a 140mm fork on the FS27 and love it.  Might even try 150 one day.  The 140mm 27.5 fork with plus tires probably gives similar height as the 130 29" fork.

You got some pictures of your build somewhere, or could you post some here? Cheers

I've been meaning to take some more recent pics, but here's an early one before I swapped out shocks, and moved to an eagle drivetrain.



EDIT:

I have attached a pic of how the bike sits now.  Sorry about the lame backdrop, seems every other photo op from this weekend was ruined by photobombers.

Just to give you the flip side of  the coin, doing away with the rear axle pivot both reduces weight and increases lateral stiffness of the rear triangle.   IMO this is more progressive than prehistoric.   Flexing seat stays are fine for lower travel, but certainly not ideal for longer travel, at least not without an obscenely high leverage ratio.  As for the bottom bracket, yeah, PF can be prone to creaking, however I've found relief with the wheels manufacturing threaded pressfit BB.  The mid tube is threaded, and forms a single solid BB tube, and has eliminated every hint of a creak from my cranks. Best 55 bucks Ive spent in a long time. 

Another issue with the FS27 and FS29 is that youre effectively limited to 100mm rear travel.  At least until someone finds a trunnion shock that will actually fit these bikes.

Anyway, after putting four or five hundred miles on my CS-FS27, you'd have a hard time convincing me to go in a different direction. 

Quote from: GuitsBoy on October 18, 2017, 02:43:36 PM

I'm running a 140mm fork and I love it.  But youre definitely going to need to run a 165mm shock.  No way around that.  I'm running a manitou mcleod shock.  Its a steal at $239 from take a hike bike shop.

Are you even noticing the 120mm rear travel?  Or can you tell its short on travel and would like more?  From reading about these newer geo shorter travel rear bikes, it sound like everyone says it feels like a 150 rear travel bike.  Curious to hear your thoughts on that.

Hard to say since this is my first full squish.  I would have to believe it is pretty noticeable, since the 38mm  travel equates to only 100mm travel in the back, not 120.  The travel and spring rates noticeably different, but some tweaking gets them as close as possible, IMO.  I'm running the shock at a little less pressure, with reduced volume to make the spring a bit more progressive.  I'm running 95 psi in the fork, and 190 in the rear.  Bumping it up to 200 feels a bit harsh.  190 still blows through nearly all  the travel, but I haven't felt it bottom out yet.  I'm running the compression at the second notch from open.  I have a tick over 300 miles on the setup so far, so Ill be able to further tune it as I get more used to it, but so far I love it.  Coming from a 140mm hardtail, the bike is certainly much more capable of plowing through chunk.  The few rock gardens and rooty sections we have around here are way easier to hold speed through.  But since I dont have anything to compare, its really hard to say.  I will say the bike climbs extremely well, and my climbs have actually improved over my hardtail times due to added traction.

I'm running a 140mm fork and I love it.  But youre definitely going to need to run a 165mm shock.  No way around that.  I'm running a manitou mcleod shock.  Its a steal at $239 from take a hike bike shop.

Bent my 8x50 lower shock bolt anyone no where to get one at. It would be nice if it is stronger then original.

I ordered one from china...   I ordered m6 x 62, but I haven't test fit it yet.  I think I ordered it just a touch big, since they didn't have exact length.  I figured I could grind it down if necessary.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M6-%CE%A68-29-33-45-50-56-70-78mm-bike-bicycle-Shock-absorbers-Lock-Bolts-Screw-nut/201357021728?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=500573777539&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Consider using this instead of the two spacers.  It should be much stronger.
https://365cycles.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=RS1526

While you wait for the new bolt to come in, see if you can tap the old one back straight again.

Just in case anybody needs to add an extra 1mm of clearance on a sram PF-GXP / BB92 like I did, I came up with a ghetto hack for it.  I found a keychain split ring that was 22mm ID.  I clipped one coil off, right before the bend, so it had a 5mm gap in the circle.  This allowed it to compress some, and sneak the spacer into the bottom bracket through the larger 24mm drive side bearing.  Once in there, you need to position it with your fingers so that when you insert the crank spindle in, the ring will go around the splines, right up to the step in the spindle.  Now when you snug the NDS side, which is what locates the spindle, its moved over about 1mm to  the drive side, thus creating one precious mm of extra space.