Still on my list to do:
- get a between the arms bottle
- print a rear box, similar to what the guys at 4-frames do. First protoype is done already (see 5th picture)
- ride more
- get a TT frame (project for next winter  )
Hi JonMS, these might actually fit - but I suppose you'll also need some kind of rubber adapters.

Good stuff! I'd be interested in the model of that back box when you're happy with it  .

Since this thread is back from the dead, I thought I might as well give an update. More than 8000k done. No issues. Still the first headset with no signs of wear which is a pleasant surprise.  I wasn’t too confident in those bearings. This is the bike with the race wheels on: 60mm deep/1300g with 28mm tubulars. These feel soo nice when accelerating and the cornering feel is insane. I’m still in love with the handling of this frame and the super quick steering response.

These bikes can RAIL corners. The set of 30c I have on my blue bike inflated to 32mm. I can lean the bike waaaaay too far into turns. Its amazing.

As I said I was not into headset shenanigans but thanks to kind people like you explaining things I think I finally understand it and it makes sense now.

Both caps were kind of shit, the VB one broke before even applying 6 Nm, the carbon one withstood that force but developed cracks probably because the countersunk head screw didn't fit the cap really well.

I now ordered caps together with screws declared to fit 100 % so I should be good now.
Thanks again everybody for help.

Right on. Share some pics when its complete.

- The cap on top of the stem I tightened with low torque (around 2,5 Nm) as I believe that's just for the cap to not move and it's not important for the headset itself or am I wrong? (The manual for Dogma says to preload to 2 Nm and then 6 Nm max, but I seriously don't understand why, as the cap is installed as a last part to just cover the stem, so why even preload it? I think the expander plug has to be preloaded before installing the stem or am I wrong again?

Is there enough of a gap with your steerer tube and top cap? There needs to be a gap so everything can squeeze together. Something akin the my attached image.
I am using a Pinarello compression plug and had to sand the VB top cap to allow enough space for everything to compress. I also swapped both bikes over to OEM Pinarello top caps as they fit the handlebars better looks-wise.

The order of install should be

1. Torque compression plug to required nM
2. Install fork to frame
3. Spacers etc.
4. Handlebars
5. Tighten top cap FIRST to compress everything on itself
6. Set handlebars straight then tighten grub screws

What's the material of the black cogs? Please be specific in what you bought because I assume RIRO, whoever they are, sell different types of cassettes?

its aluminum

HardLite Components on eBay makes some light axles too

https://www.ebay.com/str/hardlitecomponents?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

Thanks. "Close the gap" looks like a very solid and elegant solution but I am not sure if I want to pay 60 euros for a Garmin mount with bell. You can find cheap chinese copies on Aliexpress (like five times cheaper) but sadly I only found versions for either standard aero bars or normal round bars. I cannot find a chinese version for Most iTalon bars.

Btw does the bell of the "Close the gap" sound good and loud enough? Are you satisfied with it? Did you have any problems mounting it on this frame bars since they are just a copy of the Most original?

I have two Pinarello version of the close the gap computer mount and bell. Volume is great, I use it every ride.

Frame Update 2024

Figured I'd keep telling the story of my 218s

After painting my replacement frame I decided I wanted to paint my repaired frame this season. I sanded down the paint where I repaired prevously to check up on the repair and redo some of the body work so it would have a nicer finish once painted.

Purple is my favorite color. I found this one on the Aston Martin catalog called Digital Violet.Enjoy the pics