Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Noniinno on September 09, 2017, 04:04:10 AM
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Any experiences? Looks good, light weight, cable routing is ok, rear brake is good position at chainstay, reasonable reach, low stack, perfect head angle. Could be perfect XC-29er race machine.
http://www.yishunbike.com/mtb_frames-137-29er-full-suspension-mtb-xc-carbon-frame-lcfs911
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Wow, interesting find. This one looks like the best copy of the SCOTT SPARK RC 900 so far. Really nice, except:
- Chainstays are 8mm longer than the Scott
- No XL Version available (so nothing for me)
Otherwise it looks brillant.
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Chainstays are 8mm longer than the Scott- No XL Version available (so nothing for me)
The newsletter about bike show did mention 21" version, but actual web site does not. Maybe they'll make it available later. Never hurts to ask directly.
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That's a lot of bike there for only 100mm of travel :-\
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The newsletter about bike show did mention 21" version, but actual web site does not.
Thanks, so there is hope for us tall boys. Nice. I asked them directly, let's see what Monday has to offer.
@adbl: the original has also 100mm. My friend has one in large and it's fun on trails, but still a XC race/marathon bike...
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Not a whole lot of choices right now for a 165 x 40mm shock. Chiner builders like to try and use what they already have or buy something used or cheap...........
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Yishunbike (auto-) replied on September 9, silence ever since. More responsiveness around elsewhere.
Still, I like the frame...
EDIT: just got word from Yishuns sister company - no XL version available :(
Too bad, I was really starting to fall in love with this frame.
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I just pulled the trigger on this LCFS911 17.5" farme from lightcarbon.com. They just shipped it today with tracking #r. Order to ship date took over 30 days. I went with the Trunnion mount option for the rear shock. I'm haveing problems finding a trunnion shock that fits the demensions. 165x40mm. Any ideas? I also liked the cable routing and rear brake placement insde the rear triangle. This will be my second China bike build and First FS build. Kinda scared with all the extra moving parts. I would love to hear if anyone else has built this frame and maybe a parts list.. I would hate to be the first! I'll be posting picks of the frame and wheelset when it arrives. After that I hope my build gose smoothly. I look forward to keeping this LCFS911 thred going. Hope the LCFS911 frame is a big hit!
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Recieved my frame and wheel set :) Here are some pics! My next goal is to find a rear shock with a trunnion mount that fits! If anyone has a link to a fox Nude that will work on this frame please let me know. I plan on building this slow over the winter so don't expect a fully built bike anytime soon. That said I'll post pics as I proceed witht he build. Has anyone else bought this frame on this thred? Anyone? Anyone?
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Is the weight as promised?
The frame looks great, even for a hardtail fan like me ;)
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Anyone? Anyone?
Ordered and paid the frame a month ago from Light Carbon Bikes. They haven´t got it ready for shipping yet...Promised two weeks. Gavin Woo answers my mails with 2-4 days delay. Typical Chinese customer service. I´ll wait a week, and then will open dispute with PayPal if they havent got it posted. This suppose to be my XC-weapon for next season. I already have parts like Carbon/American Classic wheels, RF Next SL Cranks with 32NW oval chainring, XT gearbox, XTR brakes, Reba 100mm fork, Monarch 38x165 RTC shock, Schwalbe Rocket Ron tyres, Brand-X dropper seatpost, Easton bar.. Only thing I need is the frame...
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really awesome frame, but damn its hard to find 165X40 and 165X45 trunnion shocks.
it seems like only the OEMs have access to them?
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Recieved my frame and wheel set :) Here are some pics! My next goal is to find a rear shock with a trunnion mount that fits! If anyone has a link to a fox Nude that will work on this frame please let me know. I plan on building this slow over the winter so don't expect a fully built bike anytime soon. That said I'll post pics as I proceed witht he build. Has anyone else bought this frame on this thred? Anyone? Anyone?
Hi. Can you put more pictures of the frame? are you riding? if you can put photos would be appreciated. thank you very much
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Yup. I weighed the frame and with the rear axle and wood shock spacer it comes out to 68.oz or 1927.77 grams. I'm guessing the wood spacer and axle is 2-3 oz. total.
Since I can't find a affordable trunnion shock that fits I might email lightcarbon and Ask them if I can buy the hardware for a standard shock. since this is my first F/S build I not sure what is entailed in converting it back from trunnion to standard. I hope its just a few spacers. can anyone educate me on this? Again if anyone has a link to a trunnion shock that fits and is affordable please post it. If you want me to take a specific picture of the frame let me know and I'll post it. Here is some more detailed pics.
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more pics
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and more
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Here are two you could use, the stroke is over 40mm though.... could end up with a damaged frame, or extra travel but I think you can adjust the pressure to correct that possibly?
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/rockshox-deluxe-rt3-rear-shock-165x42-5mm-trunnion-2017-giant-anthem
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/2018-fox-shox-float-dps-trunnion-mounted-165x45-kashima-coat-black-body
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Thanks for the info. John from LightCarbon Sugested the Fox DPSX2 also. I didn't want to spend 500$ on a shock but I might have to. Although I do like the rockshox if it fits. Here is the dementions for the rear shock LightCarbon gave me. 20-54*165*40mm.
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Hi. The rear shock it may have remote control?
has a hole to pass the cable?
Thanks
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How is the assembly going? can you put a picture? Thank you
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Yes I'll post images as I progress. I'm still in the process of buying the drive train and fork. Now I just need $$$$$$
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On the website, it says the frame is good for 2.3" 29er. Is there much room to run thicker tyres or maybe a 2.6/2.8 27.5?
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No. I think that would be a tight fit.
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Hi teeroy. has a hole? can you post a photo? Thank you
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Ok, I looked again. There is NO holes in the top tube or seat tube. The only hole near the rear shock is at the bottom of the frame. Is the for drainage? (see pic). I'm still looking for a rear shock that fits. My choices are 165x38 Fox DPS (standard mount) or 165x42 Fox DPS(Trunnion mount). Has anyone had luck using spacers in the rear shock to limit the stroke? Thanks.
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Hi. thanks for everything. I also ordered this frame. It's a pity that you can not put remote control for the shock.
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https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1x.FDSpXXXXbDXXXXq6xXFXXXL.jpg?size=82777&height=707&width=1000
Does this help?
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Thanks Mercenary.
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Hi Java82. Glade to hear you pulled the trigger one this frame. I don't want to do this build alone,,,Ha Ha. I'm anxious to see and hear how your build goes. Do you have a list of components you are going to use? I'm still debating on fork and drive train. Also I'm a little confused on the correct spindle width and Q factor for the 1x11 (148mm) boost rear hub. I still consider myself a greenhorn on bike building. I've only built 2 china bikes :o.
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for now I only ordered the frame. for December I will start with the montage. I have to buy some more things like boost wheels, rear shock, boost crank...
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Finally I got the frame. Looks good, but there is couple of things I do not like:
- Bottom bracket shell is quite thin..specially drive side.
- Bottle cage holes are so high in down tube that 750mm bottle is very near to hit the bottom of the top tube. I don´t understand why, there is a lot of room towards rear shock.
- Rear Shock mount bearings are piece of *hit. I can hear crackling sound when rotating the bearings.
Otherwise the frame looks good and well made.
I have now Race face Aeffect + 32t oval ring and Rockshox Monarch RCT 165x38 installed. Haven´t build the bike ready yet, so I´ll write more and put some pics here after first ride.
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Same issues I'm having. Rear shock bearing are hard to turn and aren't smooth.
Bottom bracket seems thin. I'm worried about pressing my BB92 cups in and having them break.
I'll post more pictures as soon as I get the head tube bearing in the mail and installed.
Noniinno-- do you think this shock would fit on this frame if I changed out the 6mm bushings to 8mm.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-Swiss-Scott-Nude-TC-Air-Rear-Shock-XM180-LRCS-165X38mm-6-5X1-5-Remote-MTB/252108545122?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
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Teeroy: I don´t see any reason why it doesn´t work.
I reported the issues of the frame to LC, and they promised to check with engineer how to correct.
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How is the assembly of the bike going? you could put picturesY ;) 8)
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(http://www.image-share.com/upload/3645/121.jpg)
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it's great! can you tell me the size of the rear shock bushings?
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^ 22.2 mm x 8 mm both ends.
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Now I have five decent ride with lcsf-911. Really have to say it is delicious bike. It is very fast on flat and rear end eats roots and rocks but still effective pedalling every situation, even out of saddle big gear wrestling. Still it is light at uphill and trustfull and solid at downhill. The bike has120mm fork so it slackens the angles about one degree. I have had several fs bikes before (Specialized epic s-works, Cube Stereo HPC 120mm, Kona Hei Hei) and this is absolutely best I tried. Really good xc-machine. Now I have 27,5 x 2,6" Schwalbe Ice Spikers on it, the bottom bracket dropped approx. 5mm vs. 29er Rocket Ron. So happy with the bike, hope it is as reliable as it is fun.
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Great looking bike!
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hi noniinno.
You can put more detailed photos of the bike.
I would appreciate. Thank you
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Bump for more pictures. 8)
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Hey there,
Which size frames have you bought and how high/inseam are you?
Thank you,
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I got the 17" inch frame. I have a 30-31" inseam.
Yes I'll bee sending more pics soon. I'll be finishing my build after ski season.
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Done with my build!! Sorry this took longer than expected. I have yet to ride it. I'm guessing its going to be a while with all this snow! Here is a build list of what I have into it at 24+ pounds. And here is a link to many detailed images that might help other people with there build. https://troygustafson.smugmug.com/Lightcarbon-LCFS911-29er-bike-build/
Frame - 17.5 LC-LCFS911
Wheels - LC-DT350S-29 Boost
Hubs- DT^ Swiss 350 straight pull
Rear shock- RockShox Monarch XX 6.50x1.50 w/ lock out
Front Shock-RockSox SIDxx 100mm boost
Headset-FSA #42/ACB Orbit
Bottom bracket- Sram GPX BB92
Brakes- Shimano XT
Rotors - ASHIMA 160mm Ai2 With 6 hole DT Swiss adaptor
Group Set - Sram 1x12 GX Eagle
China carbon parts - Seat post, seat, Stem and Bars
Grips- Ergo GP3 grips and bar ends
Tires- Schwalbe Racing Ralph tubeless
==== 24.96 Pounds====
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lovely!!. I just received the frame today. Since December he has been unemployed in the Czech Republic for the issue of customs. but finally I have it. Now it's time to ride it. the frame looks different compared to the photos at the beginning, does not it?
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The only difference is where the derailer cable runs out of the rear triangle. Otherwise its the same.
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The only difference is where the derailer cable runs out of the rear triangle. Otherwise its the same.
^ 22 mm x 8 mm both ends.
Guys, would you allow me to use/post your pictures on the Frame wiki ?
http://www.bikebuilderinfo.com/bin/view/FrameList/911
So far I've added the frames that I built but I want to expand with information of others to make it easier for new people to choose and build.
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That would be ok with me. go for it.
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I just love this bike!
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I just love this bike!
Nice, looks good. Do you have the parts list/weight?
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I just love this bike!
I can understand :D
I don't see some fork/shock lock. Right?
How is the pedalling efficiency when climbing/sprinting ?
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Quite basic build...
Reba 120mm, xtr m9000 race brakes, XT M8000 gears, sunrace 11-40 cassette, American classic hubs, DT-Swiss Competition spokes, Nextie carbon id30mm rims, Brand-X dropper post, chiner saddle, Easton carbon bar, Rocket Rons ss 2.2", RF Next cranks, eggbeater pedals, Monarch 165x38 RCT shock. Weight approx 11,3-4kg include pedals and bottle gage.
There is no need for lock outs. This frame is unbelievable good and pedal efficient. It's still very comfortable and sensitive, even for small chatter. My previous bikes were cube stereo and Epic S-works, and this frame beats them both. This is absolutely the best fully frame I never owned.
Lightcarbon bikes deserve extra points. The first frame they delivered me was a bit thin in bottom bracket area. And the bottle gage rivets were quite high. It was no possible use 750ml thermal bottle. I wrote them about these issues, and they sent me a new frame that the issues has improved. I had to pay only postage costs!! And they let me keep the old frame!
This frame is really solid, light, effective and fast enough for compare any "hi-quality" brand frame. I'm really happy with it. I use it for XCM and XCO racing and light trail riding. With 120mm fork and dropper the bike is really capable even the nastiest trails and rock gardens.
And the cons... sorry guys, haven´t found any. May be the bottle gage rivets could be 15mm lower...
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Lightcarbon bikes deserve extra points. The first frame they delivered me was a bit thin in bottom bracket area. And the bottle gage rivets were quite high. It was no possible use 750ml thermal bottle. I wrote them about these issues, and they sent me a new frame that the issues has improved. I had to pay only postage costs!! And they let me keep the old frame!
Nice ! Thanks for sharing.
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Nice ! Thanks for sharing.
Actually at first they promised send me a new front triangle. For some reason, I don´t know why (and it´s not bothering me at all ;)), they sent me a whole new frame with der. hanger, link bearings and shock mounting parts. Now I have spare frame!
The frame is sensitive for correct linkage screw tighten torque. If you tighten more than 10Nm (it reads at the bolts head) it starts creacking. I use loctite soft thread lock for "glueing" the metal parts to rear triangle carbon surfaces. It´s still easy remount, but the system is totally noise and creacking free.
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Nice ! Thanks for sharing.
Actually at first they promised send me a new front triangle. For some reason, I don´t know why (and it´s not bothering me at all ;)), they sent me a whole new frame with der. hanger, link bearings and shock mounting parts. Now I have spare frame!
The frame is sensitive for correct linkage screw tighten torque. If you tighten more than 10Nm (it reads at the bolts head) it starts creacking. I use loctite soft thread lock for "glueing" the metal parts to rear triangle carbon surfaces. It´s still easy remount, but the system is totally noise and creacking free.
That's good to know. If you received a brand new frame would you recommend applying locktite to every link/screw/bolt before starting a build?
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That's good to know. If you received a brand new frame would you recommend applying locktite to every link/screw/bolt before starting a build?
I know i did with my M06. I didn't trust anything to the manufacturer so when my frame came i completely took it all apart, inspected it and put it all back together with locktite and proper torque. It's been flawless ever since ;D
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That's good to know. If you received a brand new frame would you recommend applying locktite to every link/screw/bolt before starting a build?
I know i did with my M06. I didn't trust anything to the manufacturer so when my frame came i completely took it all apart, inspected it and put it all back together with locktite and proper torque. It's been flawless ever since ;D
That's a good point, I wonder what the torque settings are going to be for all the pivots and joints. Anyone have any numbers? Or is it largely a guessing game.
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That's a good point, I wonder what the torque settings are going to be for all the pivots and joints. Anyone have any numbers? Or is it largely a guessing game.
Correct torque value is printed on bolt heads. If I remember right, it is 10Nm all bolts.
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Correct torque value is printed on bolt heads. If I remember right, it is 10Nm all bolts.
Not the case for M06, there are no torque labels anywhere on the frame, so I had to guess and used 9-10Nm for all bolts.
...
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I have one of these frames on the way and am in the process of ordering the parts to build it up. I bought a DT Swiss shock for it and need to order the bushings for it. Does anyone know what the width is for the two mounting locations? These are the bushings:
https://r2-bike.com/dt-swiss-daempfer-buchsenset-dt-8_1
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Approx. 5000 km done and dusted at last season with this frame. Installed a set of new bearings to linkages and chanced the shock upper bushing to Enduro bearings needle bearings. Still go strong to new season, frame works as a charm.
(https://snag.gy/ZLMROS.jpg)
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Nice, thanks for the update! Good to see it still going strong
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Awesome looking frame! I want to replace my M06 with one of these. Is the frame uber stiff or is it kinda flexy? My M06 isn't too flexy but its not the stiffest like my Sensor is.
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anybody with a 911 frame running a dropper ? I'm particular interested in the seat tube max insertion for a size 15.5
Currently my wife has a M7007 and the max insertion is only 101mm. I need to get her at least a 100mm dropper however she only has 180mm of seatpost exposed.
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Anyone know what derailleur hanger I can order as a back-up for the LCFS911? Always like to have one with me.
Secondly, anyone use a trunnion mount shock on this frame? My frame came with the trunnion bolts, but there is side to side play and I am thinking I need some sort of spacer/washer setup to go between the frame mounts and the shock.
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In the final stages of my "budget" LCFS911 build light trail build.
Dropper post arrives today, need to swap rims as these cheap DT rims are portly and narrow, and these tires were the only 29er spares I had laying around and are way too sketchy.
The frame quality looks great. Unfortunately the specs on the LC website were incorrect regarding shock sizes, so this is my second shock for the build. They also forgot spacers for trunnion mounts, so I had to source them locally. They have since updated the website to have the correct information and 165 x 40 trunnion is the largest you can go. LC has been great helping make things right....would still buy from them again provided I don't crack this frame in 5 minutes.
(https://i.ibb.co/Vqgq0RH/IMG-20190818-082141.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nL7Lq93)
3 sided die roll (https://freeonlinedice.com/)
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Finally it's done.
More or less took all parts from my 2019 Scott Scale 930 and put it on this frame.
Fox Float rear shock with 3-pos lockout.
11.4 kg with heavy wheels and "only" NX groupset.
Probably quite easy to get sub 10kg.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZKkhOBx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/opzegsr.jpg)
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If I was to run a 120mm Rockshox SID ultimate on the front of this, would I want a 42mm or 51mm offset? The description says 120mm front travel, the geometry table says 100mm front and 506 AtoC and says 51mm offset. If I add 20mmtravel/extend AtoC, do I want to change offset?
I think by lengthening the fork I'd slacken the headtube by ~1° which would lengthen the Front Center and also increase the trail. shortening fork offset would also lengthen trail/shorten wheelbase I think? Lengthening trail increases wheel flop, makes things more stable at high speeds straight ahead, but not as quick steering?
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For me this is an excellent summary about offset : https://www.bikeradar.com/features/pushing-the-limits-of-fork-offset-an-experiment/
My test gives me the same sensation, smooth handling with shorter offset. I think 51 offset was made to lenghten the old bikes with short reach and steep head angles, it's more easy to make it turn but you get a more twitchy direction. Choose the offset that suits your style.
You're right about head angle, when you add 20mm to the fork you approximately slack by 1 degree and reduce reach by 10mm.
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Finally it's done.
More or less took all parts from my 2019 Scott Scale 930 and put it on this frame.
Fox Float rear shock with 3-pos lockout.
11.4 kg with heavy wheels and "only" NX groupset.
Probably quite easy to get sub 10kg.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZKkhOBx.jpg)
Saarela - is that gloss black paint or just gloss carbon finish?
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Finally it's done.
More or less took all parts from my 2019 Scott Scale 930 and put it on this frame.
Fox Float rear shock with 3-pos lockout.
11.4 kg with heavy wheels and "only" NX groupset.
Probably quite easy to get sub 10kg.
Saarela - is that gloss black paint or just gloss carbon finish?
Gloss black, not sure if you can get gloss carbon
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Finally it's done.
More or less took all parts from my 2019 Scott Scale 930 and put it on this frame.
Fox Float rear shock with 3-pos lockout.
11.4 kg with heavy wheels and "only" NX groupset.
Probably quite easy to get sub 10kg.
Saarela - is that gloss black paint or just gloss carbon finish?
Gloss black, not sure if you can get gloss carbon
You can get clear gloss which is what he is referring to.
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vtqtruqv8b695y/IMG_20191023_103425.jpg?raw=1)
10.7kg whit pedals, bottle cage and mudguard..
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My first fs and build. 3h riding and everything is working perfect.
Only problem is Fox 32 performance 44offset or Reba 51mm offset..
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/998he2r2kklfx1j/IMG_20191024_155043_compress4.jpg?raw=1)
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SOOOO nice!!! did you ride it yet? How does it feel? BB alignment ok? How much did you pay in the end? I'm reallyyy thinking about getting one of these! Thanks in advance.
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3 hours testing in my normal routes. It's feels great!! Climping like my hardtail but more grip on wet spots. Light weight so on so on..
BB was ok.. the bearing went into place nicely. I took the wheels off the old bike and buy cranks and someting else new.. but i say i was spendin money like 2000$ overal.. sorry my bad english
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How much weight for the bike ?
What do you mean by the 51/44 problem ? You are testing both and trying to find what is the best ?
I love the color, I'm in the orange recently too :D
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Thanks for the information!
3 hours testing in my normal routes. It's feels great!! Climping like my hardtail but more grip on wet spots. Light weight so on so on..
BB was ok.. the bearing went into place nicely. I took the wheels off the old bike and buy cranks and someting else new.. but i say i was spendin money like 2000$ overal.. sorry my bad english
What was the frame price with the painting? Sorry to ask specifically!
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How much weight for the bike ?
What do you mean by the 51/44 problem ? You are testing both and trying to find what is the best ?
I love the color, I'm in the orange recently too :D
Bike is 10.6-10.7 kg including everything. Yeah i have test both and i like this 51 but rockshox reba is heavier and look is not so cool like fox is..
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Thanks for the information!
3 hours testing in my normal routes. It's feels great!! Climping like my hardtail but more grip on wet spots. Light weight so on so on..
BB was ok.. the bearing went into place nicely. I took the wheels off the old bike and buy cranks and someting else new.. but i say i was spendin money like 2000$ overal.. sorry my bad english
What was the frame price with the painting? Sorry to ask specifically!
frameset cost $565/set(included frame+clamp+thru axle) UD matt- Size Large and Painting whole frame in red or orange(one color) cost $98
Paypal handle fee $32.88
And shipping cost..
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Thanks very much for the details!
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... Yeah i have test both and i like this 51...
I never paid much attention to this, and bought a 51mm, not for a good reason, but just because it was on sale.
How would you describe the difference ?
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For me this is an excellent summary about offset : https://www.bikeradar.com/features/pushing-the-limits-of-fork-offset-an-experiment/
My test gives me the same sensation, smooth handling with shorter offset. I think 51 offset was made to lenghten the old bikes with short reach and steep head angles, it's more easy to make it turn but you get a more twitchy direction. Choose the offset that suits your style.
When you built your 911 did you use a 165*45, 165*42.5, or 165*40 trunnion shock? I saw you saying it could take larger than 165*40 but can’t find your build or confirming it. Would love to get over 100mm out of this frame.
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When you built your 911 did you use a 165*45, 165*42.5, or 165*40 trunnion shock? I saw you saying it could take larger than 165*40 but can’t find your build or confirming it. Would love to get over 100mm out of this frame.
Unfortunately the specs on the LC website were incorrect regarding shock sizes, so this is my second shock for the build. They also forgot spacers for trunnion mounts, so I had to source them locally. They have since updated the website to have the correct information and 165 x 40 trunnion is the largest you can go.
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Just ordered an LCFS911 frame size 19". Shipped within a day of ordering. Been planning this one a bit, have suspension and wheelset ready to go. Just need to find the best way to get the new Shimano groupset shipped to the US affordably. Seems many European sites are blocking deliveries here now.
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Yep Shimano fixed the glitch. was pricing a xtr derailuer and all online prices are between $256-$265.
Edit: Actually you can get the long cage version on eBay for $179.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F23025912097
Hers a short cage for $199 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254428458799
Seems eBay might be the spot
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nice to see they have resolved the rear shock access, i have to remove the shock to access the shrader valve on my fox trunnion shock, which is a nuisance to say the least!
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What size frames/how tall are people and what do they think of the reach? I ordered a medium. I couldn't go large because I'm 5'8.5" (174cm) and the 490mm seat tube seemed like it would be too long. My torso or arms a kind of long (I think it might be broad shoulders) so I think my reach is kind of long. The reach on the medium is listed as 421.2mm and I'm worried it's short compared to many other frames out there. Does this bike feel short? Scott Spark is 429, Trek Top Fuel 445, Santa Cruz Blur 440, and American Eagle Flow 441 so they are all about 20mm longer.
I'd rather not have to put a 80mm, 90mm, or 100mm stem on it to stretch it out. I'd put a set back post on it, but I'm going to run a dropper and the only setback dropper I know of is the Specialized, but they don't make it in a 31.6 and seem to not be making them anymore anyway. I bought a OneUP V2 dropper.
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I'm 6ft but really long legs and shorter arms, i use a 80mm stem, doesn't feel cramp. My main issue with the frame is i can't add air to the trunnion shock without partly removing it from the frame, i see this has been amended on later frames, but know good for me! rides well but isn't as pedal efficient as my pivot 429 but its much lighter and slacker head angle
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49783157638_3abaa53a59_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iRaGm7)IMG_8398 (https://flic.kr/p/2iRaGm7) by chris.noble87 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91463876@N08/), on Flickr
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Very nice looking bike Chris!
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I'm 6ft but really long legs and shorter arms, i use a 80mm stem, doesn't feel cramp. My main issue with the frame is i can't add air to the trunnion shock without partly removing it from the frame, i see this has been amended on later frames, but know good for me! rides well but isn't as pedal efficient as my pivot 429 but its much lighter and slacker head angle
Thanks for the feedback Chris. I'm assuming you're on a 19" frame? That makes me a little nervous. While I'm about 5'8.5" (68.5",174cm) my wingspan is 5'10.875" (70.875", 180cm). Being right in between sizes with +3 ape index makes frame fitting interesting. Hopefully a 740mm bar and 80mm stem gets it long enough for me and steers ok. Aside from going with a name brand frame it seems the only longer reach options are something like a Carbonda 936, lcfs958, etc. But those are starting to look more trail than xc when you have a 120mm fork
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Has anybody found a good downtube protector for the lcfs911? I'm thinking hard plastic rather than the film type. Worst case I could try kidex or whatever it's called
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sorry, yes its a 19" yes its tricky to say for sure, all i know is if i go for smaller frame the seatpost ends up over max! i use the lizard skin downtube skin, or effetto do a 3mm thick helitape which i have used in the past, lizard skin stuff looks better though
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does L size fit on 189cm heigh or it to small?
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would say potentially too small, do scott have a size guide for the spark? would start running out of seatpost
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Bike came pretty quick, packaged well. I built it up over the winter and have been riding a few months now ~100mi / wk on good mix of XC and trail in New England. Feels solid still and I ask a lot of it doing sprints @ 6'1" 200lbs. No creaks, the frame feels relatively solid considering its weight. The frame came well assembled and properly torqued from LC who have been fast to respond to communications thus far the couple of times I had questions.
It took me a while to adapt coming from a Specialized Epic FS I retired last Fall. My times were at first roughly equal to what I was doing on the Epic but are much improved now. I went with the Shimano 10-51T groupset with a 34T up front. You cannot put a 36T up front — it won't fit and will dig into the chainstay without a spacer that'll mess up shifting. This is my biggest gripe since I prefer a 36T up front. The 51T rear gear is useless with the front 34 and almost never used so I'd rather have better gear range the other end. I plan to go with the cassette that doesn't have the 51T cog when I replace it.
Suspension is off a Spark, Fox 32 100mm up front. I, too, have the problem of needing to remove the bottom bolt of the rear suspension Fox Nude 100mm to fully access the Schrader valve on it. The problem is that the notch on the frame's side for pump access is only on one half of one side, and it's the wrong side. You cannot just spin the Nude 180 degrees to fix this because then the valve is facing the rear of the bike — only the front half is cut for it. You cannot flip it 180 degrees vertically without losing rear lockout — a deal breaker for me.
Overall a good bike, happy with it so far.
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Hi. Has anyone built the LCFS911 as a mullet with 29" on the front and 27.5" on the rear? Will the geometri be crazy or will it work?
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911 is on sale now!
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Hi. Has anyone built the LCFS911 as a mullet with 29" on the front and 27.5" on the rear? Will the geometri be crazy or will it work?
I think the geometry would work perfect with 100mm front travel mullet. 110mm might put it too big in the front for what it was designed, but I imagine it would still work as well as most other solutions.
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Thanks. My frame is now in Swedish customs so I guess I will have it this week.
I have started buying component, but I have not bough a fork yet.
Right now I think I will buy a 27.5" fork with 110-120 mm travel, 170 mm cranks and built the bike with 27.5" wheels. (have to built it small, its not for me) If the BB height is to low I can use 27.5+ tires.
Or I could make a "mullet light" with + Tire in front and 27.5" rear. I don't think I will go for any 29" parts on my first attempt.
This is the first bike I will build. If you more experienced builders thinks my ideas are totally crazy, fell free to comment.
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I sheared off the non-drive side of the lower swing arm bolt on my 91x today. I heard a couple weird noises but didn't notice until the drive side started to back out and knocked my chain off. About 1000 total miles on the frame. Maybe 200 pavement and 800 pretty flat singletrack with some small jumps. I only weigh 140lbs. Does anyone know of a source other than LightCarbon to get this? In my search for trunnion bolts I found that the Evil bike bolts worked. Looking around the Evil site the Delta pivot kits look similar. I didn't know if anyone has figured out if Lightcarbon uses any standard suspension hardware.
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I sheared off the non-drive side of the lower swing arm bolt on my 91x today. I heard a couple weird noises but didn't notice until the drive side started to back out and knocked my chain off. About 1000 total miles on the frame. Maybe 200 pavement and 800 pretty flat singletrack with some small jumps. I only weigh 140lbs. Does anyone know of a source other than LightCarbon to get this? In my search for trunnion bolts I found that the Evil bike bolts worked. Looking around the Evil site the Delta pivot kits look similar. I didn't know if anyone has figured out if Lightcarbon uses any standard suspension hardware.
Sounds like a time sink, sorry. Let us know how it turns out and how LightCarbon handles it. I'd email on my receipt chain and offer to pay them to ship a couple replacements, I would hope they could come through on that.
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Thanks. My frame is now in Swedish customs so I guess I will have it this week.
I have started buying component, but I have not bough a fork yet.
Right now I think I will buy a 27.5" fork with 110-120 mm travel, 170 mm cranks and built the bike with 27.5" wheels. (have to built it small, its not for me) If the BB height is to low I can use 27.5+ tires.
Or I could make a "mullet light" with + Tire in front and 27.5" rear. I don't think I will go for any 29" parts on my first attempt.
This is the first bike I will build. If you more experienced builders thinks my ideas are totally crazy, fell free to comment.
I think you're doing it right. I went with 29" front and rear with 100mm front travel. Front tire is a 2.6" and rear tire is a 2.2". It is fast but there are times I wish I had more plushness in the front.
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I sheared off the non-drive side of the lower swing arm bolt on my 91x today. I heard a couple weird noises but didn't notice until the drive side started to back out and knocked my chain off. About 1000 total miles on the frame. Maybe 200 pavement and 800 pretty flat singletrack with some small jumps. I only weigh 140lbs. Does anyone know of a source other than LightCarbon to get this? In my search for trunnion bolts I found that the Evil bike bolts worked. Looking around the Evil site the Delta pivot kits look similar. I didn't know if anyone has figured out if Lightcarbon uses any standard suspension hardware.
I've got an Evil Following MB. Let me know if you want me to measure something.
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Just got my frame in today. Ordered it at the beginning of the month. Still waiting for some parts to arrive.
Does the top headset bearing it comes with just go directly against the headtube? I was expecting one of those retainer things to go in first but I didn't have any of those included.
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Does the top headset bearing it comes with just go directly against the headtube?
In general, yes.
It should seat flush with the frame or just above.
If too deep, you may have received some thin shims to put below the top cover.
To avoid the cover to rub against the frame.
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Hi.
If your are 180 cm long like I am should you go for a M or L?
I hate beening in between :(
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Hi.
If your are 180 cm long like I am should you go for a M or L?
I hate beening in between :(
I'm 165cm and went with a M, so if I was you I'd go for a L. Although I haven't actually tried mine yet haha, still missing some pieces.
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I sheared off the non-drive side of the lower swing arm bolt on my 91x today. I heard a couple weird noises but didn't notice until the drive side started to back out and knocked my chain off. About 1000 total miles on the frame. Maybe 200 pavement and 800 pretty flat singletrack with some small jumps. I only weigh 140lbs. Does anyone know of a source other than LightCarbon to get this? In my search for trunnion bolts I found that the Evil bike bolts worked. Looking around the Evil site the Delta pivot kits look similar. I didn't know if anyone has figured out if Lightcarbon uses any standard suspension hardware.
I worked with Light Carbon and they are sending me a replacement. Being shipping costs $22 and it takes a while I have 2 of all the suspension hardware coming. Once here and I can measure, I'm going to try and source stainless hardware. We just set up a machine shop at work so worst case I can machine down bolts that are close.
It took over a week for Light Carbon to ship them out. Luckily DHL shipping seems to be moving quickly. It can't get here soon enough. My hardtail fat bike with 29+ wheels beats me up on the trails. I'm spoiled by the full suspension
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Ran into a big problem fitting on the rear tire today. The Magura MT5 caliper is hitting the rear inside triangle. It's just a few mm off, so I think I'll try filing down the caliper housing. Can't return them anyways since I ordered them months ago from Germany haha.
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I received my frame today. First impression of quality and finish is great. My intention is to build this for my wife and since she is 164 cm the framesize is small. I got a great deal on 27.5" wheels with 2.35" tyres, new, so I will try building the bike with these wheels. Hopefully the BB height will not be to low.
I also got a 2:nd hand Fox Elite 32 fork, 100 mm travel that I will use. To save height the cranks are 170 mm and the chainring is 30 teeth. (low gears for steep climbing)
The drivetrain is Shimano Deore with 11-51 in the cassette. The brakes are Shimano BR-MT400 + BL-MT401.
I will keep you posted how things work out. If it does not work out with the 27.5" wheels I will have to sell them and buy 29".
My first decision now is if I should paint the frame or use it as it is. It looks cool in black, but with the right color it will look more "finished".
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Ran into a big problem fitting on the rear tire today. The Magura MT5 caliper is hitting the rear inside triangle. It's just a few mm off, so I think I'll try filing down the caliper housing. Can't return them anyways since I ordered them months ago from Germany haha.
I read the same problem with scott spark frame and magura brakes. The guy used the solution you mentionned.
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I have just put the parts together to make a measurement with 27.5" wheels.
(https://admin.abicart.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-7154a7.jpg)
(https://admin.abicart.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-e8cde7.jpg)
What do you think, will the BB be to low? Will use 170 mm cranks.
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There are a lot of parts needed to build a bike.
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-6c74ac.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-7e8cbe.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-cdd399.jpg)
And I thought I had all I needed. Started building the bike yesterday and one thing I am missing, that's very important, is a correct bushing kit for the rear shocker mount. There was a Kit supplied with the frame but that did not work with my Rock Shox Monarch R. So I put it together with spacers, but It cant be riden like this.
I did struggle a bit with getting the housing for the rear derailleur and rear brake in place. But I managed to get all in place. Today I will shorten the brake housings and bleed the brakes.
I am happy with the frame. It fells well thought through and well built. But it is small. I ordered a size Small for my wife without really reading the figures, but measuring it now I would rather say its size XS. Even if a replace the tires with 27.5+ or shock and tires with 29", the reach and top tube length is short. Its supposed to be a surprise on her birthday in three weeks so im in a but of a difficult situation in this issue.
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-5aef2a.jpg)
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...Its supposed to be a surprise on her birthday in three weeks so im in a but of a difficult situation in this issue....
Ouch! A longer stem and a seatpost with an offset couldn't compensate?
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Nice build! Where did you get that rubber frame protection? Thanks
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The Chain Protector is from "RAAW Mountain Bikes"
https://raawmtb.com/collections/parts
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Starting to get the pieces together
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-bd56a3.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-4167bc.jpg)
I am waiting for the "bush kit" for the rear damper mount and I also have to see what I have done wrong with the crank. On the lowest 3 gears the chain falls of the front chainring.
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Looks great! Did yours not come with a chain stay protector pre-installed?
I am also waiting for the bushing kit. Ordered mine from Amazon and it's been a month and still haven't gotten it. At least they gave me a 5$ giftcard lul.
For the crank could it be the bottom bracket spacers? I used a sram BB and it came with a 2mm spacer. In hindsight I should have measured things but didn't and just slapped it in there. I'm also still waiting for my cassette so can't test shifting yet.
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Hi. The Chain-stay protector is ordered from Raaw MTB
https://raawmtb.com/collections/parts/products/chainstay-guard
Everything is solved and its embarrassing to say what it was... It was the chainlock that was not fully extended so it gav me a stiff link and the chain dropped. Whit that installed correct the shifting works perfect. So now I am "only" waiting for the bushings, also ordered on Amazon.
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With 2 sets of the bushing kits all fited perfecly and the rear shock could be mounted in place
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-238224.jpg)
Im building tihs as a trailbike more than a XC bike. So the front chainring is 30 teeth, the rear 11-51. All parts in the groupset are Shimano Deore
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-2f3bb7.jpg)
There are some small things left to adjust and a dropper post will be fitted, but the bike is now very close to finished.
I am very happy with the Light Carbon LCFS911 frame so far. Everything has fitted perfecly and the finish of all parts is really good.
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Looks great! Did yours not come with a chain stay protector pre-installed?
I am also waiting for the bushing kit. Ordered mine from Amazon and it's been a month and still haven't gotten it. At least they gave me a 5$ giftcard lul.
For the crank could it be the bottom bracket spacers? I used a sram BB and it came with a 2mm spacer. In hindsight I should have measured things but didn't and just slapped it in there. I'm also still waiting for my cassette so can't test shifting yet.
Mine needed the spacer. I didn't put it at first and there was some play and shifting issues. The spacer resolved it.
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With 2 sets of the bushing kits all fited perfecly and the rear shock could be mounted in place
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-238224.jpg)
Im building tihs as a trailbike more than a XC bike. So the front chainring is 30 teeth, the rear 11-51. All parts in the groupset are Shimano Deore
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8481/178138481-origpic-2f3bb7.jpg)
There are some small things left to adjust and a dropper post will be fitted, but the bike is now very close to finished.
I am very happy with the Light Carbon LCFS911 frame so far. Everything has fitted perfecly and the finish of all parts is really good.
Hey Stefan! I saw you also built up a LCFS958, which one do you like more?
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Im building the LCFS911 in size S for my wife and the LCFS958 in size L for me. So I cant really compare them. I ride more aggressive so the longer reach, the longer travel, on the LCFS958 suits me better. But I'm impressed with the LCFS911 frame, it fells well thought through and solid and right now they are selling it really cheap (september month) so it really a bargain if you want a light bike with a little shorter travel.
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Now my LCFS911 is ready for the woods.
Parts used:
LCFS911 from from Light Carbon
Wheels, Shimano MT500
Bar, Brand X Riser
Rear shock, Rock Shox Monarch R
Fork, Fox elite 32 100 mm
Headset, Richey Comp
Brakes, Shimano MT401
Bottom bracket Shimano Deore
Crank, shifter, cassette, derailleur, Shimano Deore
Pedals, Nukeproof neutron
Sadle, Brand X
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-4842ff.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-253ca0.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-59dae1.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-f3d718.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-b8bf7e.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-8f940e.jpg)
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Looks great @StefanB!
Finished my build up and have 4 rides in on it now. It's my first mtb since I was in highschool with 26inch wheels haha. The 29er wheels are crazy, can just roll over anything. Although for really technical rocky trails I might be a little concerned about bottom-bracket clearance with smaller wheels. I had quite a few pedal strikes, but it is probably also my terrible technique.
350MB wheels from lightcarbon
Lightcarbon bar + headset
Magura MT5 + Shimano mt200
zitto stem
sram eagle sx
random cheap amazon aluminum pedals
aliexpress saddle
rock shox monarch rl 165x38
rock shox sektor 120mm
aliexpress zoom dropper (too long for me haha, at least it was cheap), replacing this with a oneup v2 120mm that's in the mail.
Biggest problem I ran into is the magura caliper not fitting in the rear triangle. I was planning on printing/machining my own bracket to move the mount to somewhere better. But my temporary shimano brake is just so much easier bleed I'm considering just switching to a higher level shimano system. The magura bleed process (at least for mt5 style) is awful and makes a mess.
(https://i.imgur.com/KlIKfAJ.jpg)
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I have rebuilt the LCFS911. On the first image it is built with 27.5" wheels and a matching fork with 100 mm travel. I gave it to my wife on hear birthday and she tried it. She usually rides a SUP Hardtail. This felt very different and the felt as the pedals where to low, to close to the ground hitting rocks and stuff. So I decided to make some changes.
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-7500a2.jpg)
The frame is made for 27.5"+ or 29". So I bought a 2:nd had 29" fork with 120 mm travel, a 29" front-wheel and a fat 27.5+ tire for the back wheel. (27.5*2.8) This increased the BB hight with more than 20 mm so now the bike suits her better. Its a kind of "mullet bike" and i think it turned out really nice.
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-650551.jpg)
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-abe696.jpg)
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h1951/178411951-origpic-9837ca.jpg)
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Done with my third Light Carbon bike. For myself I have built a LCFS958 and for the rest of the family I have built 2 LCFS911. For the future I am really curious abouth the LCFS947 frame.
Overall I am very happy with the quality of the Light Carbon frames and they are great to ride.
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h6471/179496471-origpic-3df4a2.jpg)
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h6471/179496471-origpic-399b90.jpg)
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h6471/179496471-origpic-395c0e.jpg)
(https://cdn.abicart.com/shop/1785/art85/h6471/179496471-origpic-bb5623.jpg)
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Hello to all,
My LCFS911 frame arrived last weekend and I'm excited to get working on this. Whilst searching for parts, I stumbled over the possibility to play a bit with the rake / offset of the fork.
Now of course I know that this can be a matter of taste and also that Lightcarbon is suggesting a 51mm offset.
What I'm planning, is a light XC bike for longer trails with only a couple of hills and descends. An occasional mountain trip is always fun, BTW.
So basically, for the rear, a Monarch RL would do. The front is a different story, I'm looking at a 100mm Fox 32 with 44mm offset but I'm unsure.
So here's my question: what fork with what offset are you riding on the LCFS911 and what can you recommend in A) 100/120 and B) offset 44 or 51.
Of course, I'll share some pics of the build. Just as a pre-warning: I'm thinking towards an old Klein paint job for this one.
Thanks all.....
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Just did the final shakedown. Very happy with the feel and power delivery.
Specs:
Fox shock (Trek Top Fuel Takeoff)
SRAM XX crankset + Quarq Power Meter
XO1 AXS Eagle 12 speed mini Group
SRAM Level TLM brakes
Amazon $20 disc rotors (fantastic)
Light Bicycle RD934-TR Carbon rims
Profile racing Hubs (USA made)
EThirteen 9-46 12 speed cassette
Following parts from Scott Spark takeoff:
Rockshox Sid 100mm fork Boost
Syncros Carbon Seatpost, Bars, stem
24.5lbs with pedals & Wahoo mounted
Size 19”
Took approx 2 months from order (Nov 20, 2020) to delivery
About $3500 invested combination of new and used parts
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Very nice rig! I just pulled the trigger myself on the 911 frame. Crossing my fingers as this is my first buy. ;D
Question: regarding the hardware for the rear shock, did the frame include the hardware? Tried to reach out to Wendy at Light Carbon regarding this question and so far no response yet (post 24 hours). Thanks!
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Very nice rig! I just pulled the trigger myself on the 911 frame. Crossing my fingers as this is my first buy. ;D
Question: regarding the hardware for the rear shock, did the frame include the hardware? Tried to reach out to Wendy at Light Carbon regarding this question and so far no response yet (post 24 hours). Thanks!
Mine was coming with 165x38 stardard hardware and trunnion bolts.. i pretty sure you have those too
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did anyone built a the frame with an Trunnion shock with a remote lock out? So yes, how went the cable routing to the shock?
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Straight out the bottom from the shock and out the side of your choice on top
/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5594-X3.jpg
/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5591-X3.jpg
/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5605-X3.jpg
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/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5594-X3.jpg
/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5591-X3.jpg
/Users/tgustafson/Desktop/IMG_5605-X3.jpg
This is not gonna work ;D
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@Terroy, do you use a Trunnion shock our a normal shock, because the TRunnion shock comes more to the bottom of the frame. I had a Trifox frame and it was a pain in the ass to install the cable to the shock. If this is the same with the LCFS911 then I will make the shock with a manual lever and not from the handle bar. Anyone had this issue?
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Just did the final shakedown. Very happy with the feel and power delivery.
Specs:
Fox shock (Trek Top Fuel Takeoff)
SRAM XX crankset + Quarq Power Meter
XO1 AXS Eagle 12 speed mini Group
SRAM Level TLM brakes
Amazon $20 disc rotors (fantastic)
Light Bicycle RD934-TR Carbon rims
Profile racing Hubs (USA made)
EThirteen 9-46 12 speed cassette
Following parts from Scott Spark takeoff:
Rockshox Sid 100mm fork Boost
Syncros Carbon Seatpost, Bars, stem
24.5lbs with pedals & Wahoo mounted
Size 19”
Took approx 2 months from order (Nov 20, 2020) to delivery
About $3500 invested combination of new and used parts
this is a great build! do you mind if i ask how tall you are? i'm between a medium and a large and trying to figure out which is the best way to go. i'm guessing from your saddle height and stem length that you're probably a fair bit taller than me.
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@Terroy, do you use a Trunnion shock our a normal shock, because the TRunnion shock comes more to the bottom of the frame. I had a Trifox frame and it was a pain in the ass to install the cable to the shock. If this is the same with the LCFS911 then I will make the shock with a manual lever and not from the handle bar. Anyone had this issue?
Nobody?? Maybe someone is able to send a picture how the cable comes out of the frame near the rear shock? Is this a big hole?
Thanks guys!!
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Nobody?? Maybe someone is able to send a picture how the cable comes out of the frame near the rear shock? Is this a big hole?
Thanks guys!!
the best visual of the shock mount on the most recent models is probably from this post on page 5. http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1306.msg20249.html#msg20249
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Hi,
I would like to ask, what kind of crank do you use? Is it necessary to use boost one ?
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Which crank do you use? At Sram cranks the chainring can be changed. Shimano cranks depent.
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I have Shimano m7100 cranks with 34t chainring. I know, that boost cranks have different chainline than this. But I dont know, if there is other differnece between this cranks than chainlain. For example distance between cranks or axle width.
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I have Shimano m7100 cranks with 34t chainring. I know, that boost cranks have different chainline than this. But I dont know, if there is other differnece between this cranks than chainlain. For example distance between cranks or axle width.
Shimano non-boost M7100 has a 52mm chainline which is basically the same as a SRAM boost chainline so should work just fine. The axle width and q-factor of M7100 non-boost and boost cranks is the same. the only difference is shimano M7100 boost cranks have a 55mm chainline.
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I need some help please. I'm trying to take my lcfs911 apart to get it painted.
Im able to get the trunnion bolts apart, no problem. However, bit the lower pivots as well as the upper pivots are stuck. The bolt says 10nm and I'm struggling to lever more power on them.
To be more precise, both the upper and lower pivots, I can unscrew the nut, but the bolt remains stuck.
Have any of you dealt with this and how did you solve it? I'm thinking of heading the bolt as I assume there's some kind of loctite applied.
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I need some help please. I'm trying to take my lcfs911 apart to get it painted.
Im able to get the trunnion bolts apart, no problem. However, bit the lower pivots as well as the upper pivots are stuck. The bolt says 10nm and I'm struggling to lever more power on them.
To be more precise, both the upper and lower pivots, I can unscrew the nut, but the bolt remains stuck.
Have any of you dealt with this and how did you solve it? I'm thinking of heading the bolt as I assume there's some kind of loctite applied.
10 Nm is the recommended maximum tightening torque to be applied when assembling the frame. To disassemble it may require more force to break free the thread locking compound. Unfortunately it's not unusual for the frame to come from the factory with the suspension pivot bolts torqued significantly higher than they should be.
All told, disassemble the suspension pivot bolts with a regular ratcheting wrench that you can get sufficient torque on to break the thread lock. If the nuts are off you should be able to push out the bolts by hand or very lightly tap them out with a rubber mallet and punch.
Reassemble the suspension pivot bolts with a torque wrench set to 10 Nm and fresh thread lock on the bolt threads.
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Thanks for the help! I was not expecting the factory would put that much force on the bolts.
I'll give it a try again. This time, i will put some boiling water over it beforehand. Perhaps the old trick helps.
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Just did the final shakedown. Very happy with the feel and power delivery.
Specs:
Fox shock (Trek Top Fuel Takeoff)
SRAM XX crankset + Quarq Power Meter
XO1 AXS Eagle 12 speed mini Group
SRAM Level TLM brakes
Amazon $20 disc rotors (fantastic)
Light Bicycle RD934-TR Carbon rims
Profile racing Hubs (USA made)
EThirteen 9-46 12 speed cassette
Following parts from Scott Spark takeoff:
Rockshox Sid 100mm fork Boost
Syncros Carbon Seatpost, Bars, stem
24.5lbs with pedals & Wahoo mounted
Size 19”
Took approx 2 months from order (Nov 20, 2020) to delivery
About $3500 invested combination of new and used parts
I've got this frame now! 1950detroit sold me the frame, fork, shock, handlebars, stem (I swapped to 80mm Syncros stem instead of his 120mm stem), seatpost, and saddle. I had most of the parts laying around, just had to buy a crank, chain, and a few little parts.
Specs:
Fox shock (Trek Top Fuel Takeoff)
SRAM XO GXP crankset (started it's life as a 2x, swapped on a 32t ring)
11-speed GX derailleur, XX1 shifter, X01 cassette, XX1 chain
Formula Cura 2 brakes
Amazon $20 disc rotors
Speedsafe rims, ZTTO 54t hubs, Pillar Wing 20 spokes, Sapim brass spokes (I built them)
Vittoria Mezcal XC 29x2.25 (I'm curious to try a Barzo front)
Following parts from Scott Spark takeoff:
Rockshox Sid 100mm fork Boost
Syncros Carbon Seatpost, Bars, stem, saddle, grips
Bontrager comp pedals
Build ended up at 23.2 lbs with pedals, and 23.6 with dual bottle cage. I 3d printed the bracket to hold both cages at the perfect angle, could maybe make an aluminum version that's lighter, but I'm not worried about it, the bracket itself is around 100g and the ABS part seems plenty strong. First ride was a success, the bike was really fast, it's about 1 lb lighter than my hardtail so having a lighter bike with the sting taken off the rear end was nice. I only felt any noticeable bob when standing and pedaling hard, and it's nothing major. The noise I heard was the topping out of the DPS shock, but I think I need to add rebound damping and soften the air spring. I added McMaster neoprene foam around the cables so those are silent, which is really nice! I'm hoping this bike will be the perfect XC and long distance bike. My favorite ride is a 57 miler with 18 miles of very rooty old-school singletrack, 21 miles of flow trail, and the rest is gravel to get in between. My hardtail makes my joints ache by the end and my trail bike is just so heavy. The goal of this bike is to cut the difference. I think my biggest surprise was how nimble the bike was. My hardtail is a Transition Vanquish, which is 67 HTA (which should match the 911 HTA once sagged), 75 STA, short chainstays, but the LCFS911 feels SO much more nimble around tight turns.
(https://i.imgur.com/NPJCuyZl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rVIPDHxl.jpg)
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What size of rear shock did you use on the Lcfs911?
I would quess a 165*45?
I have a 200*48 that I would like to use, perhaps not ideal but do you think it would fit?
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What size of rear shock did you use on the Lcfs911?
I would quess a 165*45?
I have a 200*48 that I would like to use, perhaps not ideal but do you think it would fit?
Won't work, too long eye to eye, 200 vs 165.
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What size of rear shock did you use on the Lcfs911?
I would quess a 165*45?
I have a 200*48 that I would like to use, perhaps not ideal but do you think it would fit?
Light carbon suggests no larger than 165x40. I had one that I didn't keep and think you might be able to run 165x42.5 with just enough clearance so the brace between the seat stays doesn't but the seat tube at full compression
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I thought I'd share my experience with disassembling the lcfs911 as I found it a bit uncommon or at least different then expected.
Background: disassembling for paint, the frame ist still new.
The rear triangle joints obviously mention 10nm and I was wondering why I couldn't open the upper joints. It turned out, that the screw is on the inside of the triangle. The outside is the bushing which (in my case) is solidly fixed with the frame.
The trick i used is to losen the big axle of the rear triangle to get some space, then open the middle joint on one side to get some further room and only then open the upper joints from the inside.
For me, this is uncommon at the least but perhaps someone can use the experience in order to keep the bushing on the outside in one piece (mine now show clear traces of opening attempts).
This led me to (positive) see that the bearings are high quality ones from enduro and (negative) that the main axle of the rear drive uses tiny spacers between arm and bearing where I question the durability.
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Here's an update to my disassemble post after sharing my experiences with lightcarbon.
I must say: immediate, professional reply with a picture of how they've already updated the newer versions of the lcfs911. Perhaps some of you might find this helpful. There will be no more bushings visible on the outside of the rear triangle which is a good improvement!
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Does anyone knows how long the shipping time takes? My frame is send (first update at 5h of April) to The Netherlands bij EMS. Light Carbon told me that it would take 3 to 4 weeks before I would recieve the frame. Any experience with this?
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Does anyone knows how long the shipping time takes? My frame is send (first update at 5h of April) to The Netherlands bij EMS. Light Carbon told me that it would take 3 to 4 weeks before I would recieve the frame. Any experience with this?
You just have to wait patiently now... It can be 3 weeks, but it can be more if you are unlucky.
Remember you are your own importer here, but no worries, generally everything goes well.
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Does anyone knows how long the shipping time takes? My frame is send (first update at 5h of April) to The Netherlands bij EMS. Light Carbon told me that it would take 3 to 4 weeks before I would recieve the frame. Any experience with this?
I ordered both frame and wheels. wheels were sent first, they took 18 days to arrive (in the US) from date of first shipping notice from LC. my frame shipped on 4/15 and I hope to receive it in early May - it has already been sent from Hong Kong to the US so just waiting for it to hit customs now.
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Thanks @Carbonazze and @Gbrnole, I just excited to start build the frame. ;) and ride with it!
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I thought I'd share my experience with disassembling the lcfs911 as I found it a bit uncommon or at least different then expected.
Background: disassembling for paint, the frame ist still new.
The rear triangle joints obviously mention 10nm and I was wondering why I couldn't open the upper joints. It turned out, that the screw is on the inside of the triangle. The outside is the bushing which (in my case) is solidly fixed with the frame.
The trick i used is to losen the big axle of the rear triangle to get some space, then open the middle joint on one side to get some further room and only then open the upper joints from the inside.
For me, this is uncommon at the least but perhaps someone can use the experience in order to keep the bushing on the outside in one piece (mine now show clear traces of opening attempts).
This led me to (positive) see that the bearings are high quality ones from enduro and (negative) that the main axle of the rear drive uses tiny spacers between arm and bearing where I question the durability.
thanks for the tips! i just received my frame and like you i am taking it apart for painting. i have the most recent revision with the hidden bushings on the upper rear linkage. i have a couple of questions if you don't mind?
1. the two main (upper and lower) through bolts did those come out easily on your frame? or did they take some effort to slide out? (the male nut is easy enough to remove but the female bolt not so much)
2. does your rear suspension move completely freely when the plastic filler piece (installed for shipping) is removed? or is it somewhat mechanical in its motion?
i have an ibis mojo that when the rear shock is removed the rear triangle moves very freely about its pivot but this frame feels almost springy between zero and full compression point.
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Here's a try:
- the 2 upper bolts were easy to remove after increasing from the inside. The lower main bolt was pretty stuck as well and I needed to work around it. I.e. loosening one piece of the aluminium triangle first on one side, remove it. And after that, I could pull the other half of the triangle with nut out. Whilst out of the frame, it was easy to remove also the other side of the bolt.
- my frame is also ,springy' with the damper out. I guess this is meant to be and could also be one of the reasons why it's a bit more difficult to take it apart. There's a bit of tension with the aluminium triangle in place.
My frame has been lying around for a while now. That's the reason why I've got the version with visible upper joints on the outside.
Perhaps you could share what paint scheme you're thinking?
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thanks for the quick response!
i was able to disassemble the rear triangle. as you noted the upper links and upper through bolt were fairly easy to remove once i got the system figured out. the lower through bolt i could only remove by inserting a long 8mm allen key into it (from the threaded side) and lightly tapping it out with a rubber mallet. the lower bearing on the non-drive side is a bit notchy which i'm not thrilled about. it is well packed with grease. the seals say enduro but i have my doubts on that!
i absolutely love the british racing green project that dangerholm did so i am considering either copying that or doing a candy version and using the base metallic silver for lettering and logos. my fork and one piece handlebar/stem will also be painted to match.
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can somebody tell me what is the actual weight for size M (without seat binder, axle and rear shock plastic dummy?)
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can somebody tell me what is the actual weight for size M (without seat binder, axle and rear shock plastic dummy?)
mine in size M is 1902g without the derailleur hanger or the rear through axle. basically right on what LC quote on their web page.
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Last thuesday I received my frame. OMG it's a beaty :) looks really good! the finishing out and inside is looking very good! I received the newest frame with the hidden bolts, looks really clean. I just had a problem with the mount of an Magura MT4 rear brake. The caliper hits the rear stay. So i ordered a new Shimano XT brake to solve this problem. The cable routing is perfect, no problem with this. Also the press-fit cups are installed in a decent way. Hope to ride bike this week when I have recieved the rear brake. Keep you updatet!
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A bit blasphemous to put the logo on but i pondered it and ultimately decided i don't care! lol
the bike is fantastic. front fork is a fox 32 stepcast performance elite. rear shock is a fox re:aktiv from a trek top fuel. both were new take off parts. i think my only gripe with the bike is the cable routing for the rear shock lockout - i ended up using a flexible noodle like you use for cantilever brakes to mitigate the ridiculously tight angle from the access hole to the inlet of the shock. still not entirely happy with that solution but it works perfectly (for now...)
the wheels are LC carbon rims with graphene built on dt swiss 350 hubs. LC's one piece bar/stem combo and a sram eagle GX build kit with an XX1 chain. final weight as shown is 23 lbs on the nose. definitely some room for weight saving in there with tire and crank choice but i'm content at that weight.
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Some images for inspiration of a fantastic bike that I built for my wife. She loves it and it has made her a better rider. 120 mm FOX 34 in front, Deore 11 speed.
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I´ve just started my build and i have a couple of questions.
What type of bushing set did you use that have a rear shoch with standard mount?
Have any of you used a cablesock for the internal wires in the frame?
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Anyone?
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What type of bushing set did you use that have a rear shoch with standard mount?
22x8 mm
Have any of you used a cablesock for the internal wires in the frame? Yes, that is possible. there is a lot of space for that.
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After one or the other post on how to build, please find a couple of pics of the final result. I'd like to thank the forum as the ideas and also other detailed pictures helped me a lot.
Of course, this paintjob is very, very personal and surely not everyone's taste. I'm a big sucker for the 90s and always wondered what a modern Klein would look like. This could be it, as a modern tribute to the former world-class brand.
I love it. For me, building this lcfs911 gave me the opportunity to build something unique like this.
Technically, the bike is solid. It features an eagle gx group with a lightcarbon wheel Set and a fox rc32 fork.
Stay healthy!
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Amazing paintjob and a beautiful bike :-)
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What's the largest oval chainring that you can use on the Lcfs911?
What Did you guy's use when mounting the pressfit bottom bracket?
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What's the largest oval chainring that you can use on the Lcfs911?
What Did you guy's use when mounting the pressfit bottom bracket?
Anyone?
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Max Compatible Chainring - 34T
And while im posting, a new image of my sons LCFS911 with 27.5+ in the rear, 29" in front.
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Done with my build!! Sorry this took longer than expected. I have yet to ride it. I'm guessing its going to be a while with all this snow! Here is a build list of what I have into it at 24+ pounds. And here is a link to many detailed images that might help other people with there build. https://troygustafson.smugmug.com/Lightcarbon-LCFS911-29er-bike-build/
Frame - 17.5 LC-LCFS911
Wheels - LC-DT350S-29 Boost
Hubs- DT^ Swiss 350 straight pull
Rear shock- RockShox Monarch XX 6.50x1.50 w/ lock out
Front Shock-RockSox SIDxx 100mm boost
Headset-FSA #42/ACB Orbit
Bottom bracket- Sram GPX BB92
Brakes- Shimano XT
Rotors - ASHIMA 160mm Ai2 With 6 hole DT Swiss adaptor
Group Set - Sram 1x12 GX Eagle
China carbon parts - Seat post, seat, Stem and Bars
Grips- Ergo GP3 grips and bar ends
Tires- Schwalbe Racing Ralph tubeless
==== 24.96 Pounds====
What aftermarket rear axel did you use?
I would like to have one that don't reguires any tools
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Found a more famous brand using the LCFS911 frame. The geometry is 100 the same, and all details as well from what i can see.
https://www.cykelkraft.se/crescent-stark-s20-29-orange (https://www.cykelkraft.se/crescent-stark-s20-29-orange)
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How did you guys solve the rear brakeline issue?
Did you cut the cone to be able to pull the line through the rear triangle or did you use a drill to take up the whole in the triangle?
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Completed my lcfs911, my first full bike build.
Self paint job with spraybike rattle cans (very scary!)
Rochshox Pike Select 130mm
Rochshox Monarch rear shock
Hunt XC wheels
Bikeyoke Divine 160mm dropper (too large lol!)
Shimano press fit BB
FSA headset
Deore / SLX drivetrain & brakes
Internal frame foam noodles for cable rattle prevention
Also got a cheap one piece carbon bar stem to fit, but afraid of using it!
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Is it still alive manufacturer? I have sent request few days ago and no response.
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Anyone have issues with a knocking noise coming from the rear shock? I've swapped to a different shock, so it's not the shock itself, but using the same Fox hardware on both the Fox DPS and Manitou Mara Inline. The noise seems to go away when reinstalling the shock, and then will return after a few rides, which makes me think the shock hardware is the cause, and not a linkage or something else. It seems to happen on top-out, primarily down repeated root hits. Maybe the hardware is undersized and I just need a new set of hardware?
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Let me try to keep the thread alive with a short word of feedback to the frame after approx. 1000km down on muddy forrest roads. First of all: no knocking sounds ;)
It's my 'winter bike' so it comes in when temperatures go down, roads go wet and with that the roadbike (also Lightcarbon) gets some rest. Furthermore, my former fully was a 90's one with the common 26" wheels underneath. I do admit, I had to get used to a 29" where you have to 'work' the steering more.
All in all I must say, the bike makes me smile. It's fairly light whilst at the other hand leaves a solid impression throughout. Both handling as well as the overall ride provide that feeling: solid. It's easy to control, not nervous, the suspension with 100mm front and rear is enough for the forrests around here. The front is stiff, the rear follows nicely. There is some bobbing uphill (lockout only front) but it's not much and easy to limit with a bit more focus on your pedaling-
Apart from a flat tyre, I had no issues with the bike (knock on wood) until now.
Keep safe.
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I guess, bad luck. The eyelets are dead on arrival. Sent a message to Wendy today, let’s see if they will replace the frame. Meanwhile, do you think it is repairable at all? I recon forces should not be too strong there…
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OMG. That's certainly not something anyone would like to see happening! I feel sorry. Not a good Christmas. Let us know how lightcarbon reacts.... in the meantime to your question: depends on the carbon specialist you can find, but it sure looks tricky to repair.
Good luck!
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I have just received an email from Wendy, they will send in a new front triangle. Top class. To be honest I wasn’t really worried.
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Very re assuring to know, thanks! Wishing you lots of fun rebuilding and all the best for the New Year!
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Hello, I've bought one of these frames and it will be my first full suspension build. Now I am buying all the things I need.
I am looking for a set of second hand brakes, but I wonder which is the hose length I need. The frame is size L, so if any of you have this size, could you please tell me the length of both hoses?
I promise post the full build.
Thank you very much!
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I've got a size large, feel free to PM me this weekend if I forget to measure my hoses.
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I've got Formula Cura brakes on 740mm bars, 100mm SID fork, and run my hoses pretty tight to the head tube. They measure 28" front and 59.5" rear.
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I've got Formula Cura brakes on 740mm bars, 100mm SID fork, and run my hoses pretty tight to the head tube. They measure 28" front and 59.5" rear.
Thank you! I'm planning to buy a 740mm handlebar too. What stem length have you bought?
Thanks.
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Mine is a 70mm
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Hello, I am building my LCFS911 and the chainring hit the frame... It is an 34T oval rotor. Anyone is using an oval 34T?
I bought a Xtr bb but haven't installed the spacer... I think it isn't necessary with 92mm length.
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That frame is 34T compatible but, 34T oval chainring usually have the ovality of 32T-36T. So you are exceeding the max chainring size. If you install spacer to BB just make sure your bb shell has enough width. Problem is your chainline will change in favor to harder gears. Easier gears, big cogs will be harder to achieve. Obviously this is for 1x set up.
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I forget to mention about the crank installation issue as well, you will have less interface for crankshaft to screw in.
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I think I will return the chainring and buy a standard 34
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That seems to be the best choice, you can also install oval chainring 32T. Just check the maximum ovality of the chainring. However, I would stick with the normal chainring tho, that seems to be easy on rear derailleur, clutch system.
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Hi all, has anyone serviced or replaced pivot bearings on this frame? Anything to keep in mind? Is this an easy or difficult procedure to attempt? Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.
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Use the email box when you purchase the frame, and leave a message on our website or send mail to the salesman which you contact. If you can find the original proforma invoice, it's more better, The salesman will ask you to take some photos. Everything is simple.
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What kind of mount do you guys use that run a trunnion shock?
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I use RWC Needle Bearing on the shock eyelet
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I use RWC Needle Bearing on the shock eyelet
How did you solve it in the lower mount?
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The frame comes with bearings in the frame and the bolts. Just bolt the shock in there.
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The frame comes with bearings in the frame and the bolts. Just bolt the shock in there.
Not if you're using a shock with trunnion mount, it will be a small gap between the shock and the frame/bearing.
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Are you confusing trunnion with eyelet? A trunnion shock on a trunnion frame requires no additional hardware on the one side. If you're using a normal 165x38mm shock with eyelets on both sides, they made adapter kits, but I've read that they generally don't hold up well.
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Are you confusing trunnion with eyelet? A trunnion shock on a trunnion frame requires no additional hardware on the one side. If you're using a normal 165x38mm shock with eyelets on both sides, they made adapter kits, but I've read that they generally don't hold up well.
No I've had a regular shock using the adapter kit but now I'm transferring to a trunnion shock and it is a gap between the shock and the frame. You have to have something else that fills the gap
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How have you guys that run a shock with trunnion mount solved the problem with that the shock is 54mm and the space between the frame/bearings are 56mm?
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How have you guys that run a shock with trunnion mount solved the problem with that the shock is 54mm and the space between the frame/bearings are 56mm?
Mine came with both mounts.. in 2019. Standard mounting hardware and small washers on trunnion mount.. I have been wonder why there is only trunnion option now.
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Mine came with both mounts.. in 2019. Standard mounting hardware and small washers on trunnion mount.. I have been wonder why there is only trunnion option now.
My frame came with bolts and hardware for a regular shock, I can't find a washer that fits
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What do you think.. There were small cracks in the paint at these points and the paint was carefully blown off, so exactly those places came holes like there was noting behing on the paint.. I wonder if there was just epoxy to cover the hole in the beginning
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How have you guys that run a shock with trunnion mount solved the problem with that the shock is 54mm and the space between the frame/bearings are 56mm
I don't have this frame but bearings here seem superfluous. There'll be next to zero rotation here.
anyway, scott use igus bushings then a top hat style spacer pressed from the inside out. this allows the bolt to drive the spacer against the shock body and take out any slack.
I'd think you'll need a 1mm spacer washer between the inner bearing race and shock body on each side. small enough outer diameter that it doesn't bind on the outer race.
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Hello eveyone, I saw that someone of you maybe are planning to mount not trunnion shocks but consider that they are not compatible anymore. The weight focused on a such short section of the axel will bend the axel after a while. It happens to me twice (and it's just a matter of time for the third). I wrote to LC and after a while they changed the compatibility on the website.
Coming to my question: could you explain me how to dismont the bottom axel of the rear triangle, the one close to the crankset. It seem that there is a sort of sieger but i don't understand how to remove it. Someone can help me?
Thank you so much.⁸
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Hello eveyone, I saw that someone of you maybe are planning to mount not trunnion shocks but consider that they are not compatible anymore. The weight focused on a such short section of the axel will bend the axel after a while. It happens to me twice (and it's just a matter of time for the third). I wrote to LC and after a while they changed the compatibility on the website.
Coming to my question: could you explain me how to dismont the bottom axel of the rear triangle, the one close to the crankset. It seem that there is a sort of sieger but i don't understand how to remove it. Someone can help me?
Thank you so much.⁸
Yeah, trunnion adapters are a terrible idea for most riders. I’ve never seen one last a full season under anyone, though I’m sure it must happen occasionally for lighter more XC oriented riders.
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Hi guy's I'm having trouble with bleeding the brakes, I've been trying in several different ways but I cant get the rear brake to it's full potential.
My guess is that it is air in the hoose under the crank, I've been whipping the handle, twisting the handle, tried to bleed the brakes according to shimanos guide, I've been trying to do it the traditional way as you do it on cars but I'm a not satisfied.
Is there anyone else that's been having the same kind of issues?
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Hi guy's I'm having trouble with bleeding the brakes, I've been trying in several different ways but I cant get the rear brake to it's full potential.
My guess is that it is air in the hoose under the crank, I've been whipping the handle, twisting the handle, tried to bleed the brakes according to shimanos guide, I've been trying to do it the traditional way as you do it on cars but I'm a not satisfied.
Is there anyone else that's been having the same kind of issues?
Lift your front wheel high enough that the crank, and the section of hose that goes under it, are higher than the rear caliper. Leave it like this for a couple of days and the air will rise to the lever end. If you are having trouble lifting the front wheel high enough then undo the rear caliber from the frame and let it hang lower to help with the height difference. Otherwise just follow the shimano guide.
I will note that I have had an XT on the rear of my sons bike that presented problems for ages before it finally failed. It would slowly loose "bite" and the lever would very slowly get more and more spongey. Looked everywhere for signs of oil leaking out and could never find any. Then one day the seal on the piston failed. It was replaced and failed again some time later. So I replaced the whole lever assembly and the brake has been fine since. I suspect that there was a small manufacturing fault in the cylinder that allowed a very slow leak.