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Re: TopCarbon TCGF066 gravel frame Just wanted to share the difference in quality between the fork from the Lexon GFX and Carbonda CFR707.
April 17, 2022, 11:00:07 PM 		3
Re: Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707 Got my medium frame in this weekend, custom paint with RAL5007 and 9016.  The quality is really nice, I'm impressed with the carbon work!

1452g - Medium frame with seat post wedge and cage/mount bolts
566g - Bare fork
115g - Headset, including upper and lower bearing, top cap, compression ring, and ~10mm off additional split spacers
379g - 400x80mm handlebar
172g - Seatpost

Rival 2x11 groupset with GX 2x10 derailleur for clutch (cable routing isn't ideal, but I used an inline adjuster then OT-RS900 cable for more flexibility)
Shimano R7000 11-32 cassette (may go 11-36, had the 32 laying around)
Zrace RX crankset with Sigeyi PM and 46/34 chainrings
SpeedSafe 45mm deep, 29mm outer, 24mm inner wheelset with Pillar Wing 20 spokes and Novatec D411/412 hubs
Vittoria Terreno Dry 700x38c
Bontrager SPD's
Total weight is 19.2 lbs with pedals but no cage

Overall I'm very happy with the bike, but haven't put many miles on it yet.  I think the frame cable routing is really well done, tube-in-tube for the brake hose, plastic tubes prerouted for derailleur cable (I just yanked them and used a magnetic kit), nice routing for front derailleur cable.  I'm a little torn on internal handlebar routing.  I really wasn't too bad to do, the handlebar was much much easier to get cables through than the Lexon GFX handlebar.  I basically loaded up the handlebar with levers and cables/hoses first, and left the derailleur cables long.  Then I put that on the bike, pushed all the cables through, and used a magnetic cable routing kit to help.  Then trim shifter cable at both ends, and brake hose at the caliper end.  The problem is that you can't pull the handlebar more than 40mm upwards or so, because the front brake hose nut wouldn't go through the internal routing, so if you needed to replace a shifter housing, there's a good chance you'd have to cut both brake hoses, pull the handlebar all the way off, replace housing, then reinstall and rebleed everything.  However, I'm just hoping nothing needs maintenance for a long time, the lack of cables is super clean and cool looking.  Also didn't consider that with a SRAM front derailleur and full internal routing, there's no where to put a barrel adjuster, so cable tension is just done by pulling tight.
April 17, 2022, 11:21:19 PM 		1
Re: Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707








April 17, 2022, 11:23:18 PM 		8
Re: Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707 Just a 200 mile update.  So far I've done some mixed adventure rides, 30 mile gravel race, and a fast road ride with others on true road bikes.  I'm still very pleased with the 707! 

During the gravel race, I hit plenty of serious potholes, stuck with the lead pack for the first 8 miles so it was about 8 people wide and no way to avoid them.  I hit some hard enough to break my bottle cage on the seat tube and the down tube bottle fell out.  Frame, fork, seatpost, and bars are still solid.  Averaged 21mph, this bike is probably 2mph faster than my old Monstercross bike.  This isn't my video, just showing the course, it even went through an actual gravel pit! https://www.facebook.com/joe.miles.9484/videos/1424082484697432

Luckily fit is perfect.  I tend to ride smaller drop bikes (but larger MTB's).  I'm 5'10" with ~31" inseam and long arms, yet opted for a medium with 400/80mm bars.  It fits like a 54cm bike, exactly like I wanted.  I think my only two nitpicks have been the levers being mounted just above the sticky paste on the handlebars, so I had them slide down during the race.  Seems to be fixed with some carbon paste and higher torque.  Also, shifter cable friction may be an issue with the tight bends through the headset.  I first built with Shimano SP41 housing and cheap Amazon cable with no lubrication, sometimes the front derailleur would get hung up going down to the small ring, and the rear would sometimes need 2 shifts one direction, and one the other to make a single gear change.  I replaced both cables with Jagwire cables and used Tri-flow in the housings, the front seems perfect now, and I think the rear just needs dialing in cable tension, only have 1 ride since the change.  If I did it again, I would've just saved up for electronic if I wanted to stick with full internal.
May 12, 2022, 12:05:19 PM 		4
Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet I had the splines on the ratchet drive ring shear off yesterday.  The hub started making a sound when ratcheting, kind of a louder gyrating noise every time it clicked, so basically the same sound as the ratchet normally, but every few seconds it would start to get louder, then a few seconds it would get quieter.  Turned around and headed back to the car to see what was up, hoping it was just running low on grease or something.  Eventually I heard a pop and the cranks could just spin.  The hub-side ratchet was stuck in the hub and I couldn't get it free with the tools in the car, so headed home.  Pried the ratchet out to find all the splines sheared off.  I'm kind of thinking that the splines got too dirty and the ratchet started sticking down in the hub.  If the hub-side ratchet can't spring outwards, then the freehub-side ratchet would get pushed further inwards towards the hub, and maybe the weird sound I was hearing was the freehub-side ratchet making contact with the ratchet drive ring.  I'm thinking that eventually it got pushed so far inwards that maybe the splines from the freehub ratchet started to mesh with the ratchet drive ring?  Making it a fixie for an instant until it broke.

Contacted ZTTO and they are replacing the ratchet drive ring, but I have no idea how I'll get the old one out with stripped splines...
July 04, 2022, 01:26:42 PM 		2
Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet Just an update, ZTTO offered a warranty replacement on the ratchet ring, but said they couldn't make a shipping label unless I buy something else... wasn't going to use it anyway and was going to keep it as a spare, so I just won't bother.  I was surprised I was able to get the old ratchet ring out with how little spline was left, took a bit of heat and a lot of torque.  I purchased the OE DT ring (HXDXXX00N1131S) and got it back together, all is good!  Comparing the ZTTO ring with the DT ring, the splines on the ZTTO ring are smaller, so a tighter fit with the ratchets.  I've got a few ratchet kits laying around, and the Fonvo 54t ratchet actually gets stuck in the ZTTO ring, but slides freely in the new DT ring.
July 11, 2022, 08:49:50 AM 		2
Re: Carbonda FM909 A 115-120mm FM909 would be perfect.  I don't think a 120/120mm FM1001 is a good combo, the geometry chart is with a 140mm fork and already has a 78deg seat tube angle.  With a 120mm fork, it'd be close to 79deg, which doesn't match the geo for a 120mm bike well.
July 28, 2022, 11:43:25 PM 		1
Re: FM1002 shock mount The bottom is trunnion, so the frame will come with bearings in the frame and the bolts, then the shock will come with threaded holes in the body.  Nothing else to purchase for the bottom mount.
August 10, 2022, 03:04:34 PM 		1
Re: JH017 grevil/gravel frame set? I don't have any real info to add, just that I went through the same thing when I was researching gravel bikes, I just think the Grevil is so cool.  I ended up deciding that there were no brands that are well-loved by ChinerTown that make it, there's no real reviews on the frame, and it's often a bad idea to buy frame that are direct copy of another (because they may not have done Engineering, just copy the outer geometry and thickness, they may not know the actual layup schedule and material spec).  Too much risk for me, so I went for a Carbonda.
August 19, 2022, 08:44:03 AM 		3
Re: Head unit mount recommendations for integrated aero bars Just chiming in that I'm going through the same thing.  I started with the Lexon mount that looks exactly like that OG Evkin one, it vibrated so much that the plastic insert that holds the Garmin broke in a gravel race.  I ran a 3D printed mount that lasted a while but eventually broke right at the front bolt point, but it lasted a couple hundred miles and didn't vibrate at all.  I revised the design and I'm going to send it out to be printed out of a stronger material than I can print at home.  Looking for an off-the-shelf solution, I've heard the K-edge mount breaks as well.  Silca is real expensive.  Not sure what else is out there.
August 19, 2022, 08:49:35 AM 		1