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Messages - eddietheengineer

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16
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter
« on: December 29, 2023, 01:05:33 PM »
Mine were the same thickness (Shimano and Magene). Do you have any calipers you could measure with? Maybe bad QC?

Thankfully it was a silly mistake on my part--I didn't realize the small chainring was directional--it has an ever so slight offset one direction. Flipping it around fixed it! Thanks

17
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P505 PES Base Spider Powermeter
« on: December 29, 2023, 07:33:36 AM »
I've installed my power meter now, I used this bottom bracket: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832835484740.html

and it worked well! The only thing I haven't diagnosed yet is that I have tried to use my Ultegra 11 speed chainrings with the crank, but the spacing between the two chainrings is wide enough that the chain can fall in the middle. I need to take it apart and see if I installed something incorrectly, or maybe the flanges that the chainrings mount to are thicker on the Magene vs. Shimano crank arms?

18
Progress update!

Airwolf messaged back and asked for a photo of the assembled bike and I sent them an image this morning--not much there yet. I've tried the following:

Removed the top cap (shown in the image), so the headset spacers contact the 3/4 diameter "doughnut" that seats in the bearing. This 100% removed any chance of interference. I put my old aluminum stem and handlebar on the frame and tried pressing down on the handlebars to compare against my current bike. While the frame still deflected some, it wasn't nearly as bad as it was, and it was roughly similar to my current bike! This is good news, if I can get the interference solved then it's maybe salvageable.

Second test--tried to put a thin shim between the top cap and the "doughnut". This didn't work with any of the shims I had since the outer diameter is too large--it contacts the housings passing through the top cap and I can't compress everything together.

Obviously the tolerance stackup of their heatset cup placement isn't great. I've sent a quick message to them telling them that it is rubbing and contacting and to ask them what to do--I have some hacky ideas I could possibly do myself, but I'd rather them tell me what to do since it's their issue.

19
100%, at this point the bike is going to just sit there until I can find a shim and get the motivation to spend a few hours undoing and redoing everything

20
Finally got the brakes bled and everything working so that I could do my first ride today! There are some odds and ends I need to look into still, but the key part is that the handlebar area is incredibly flexy still. I know some of it is due to the handlebars and stem--but a significant portion is due to the frame. I can see it twisting visibly when I push on one side or the other of the handlebar. I don't have a specific deflection amount, but it feels like the shifters are flexing by about 1" down when I push on one side or the other--it's not a small amount and I'm not pushing all that hard.

I did note right before I rode it that it seems like maybe the top cap is rubbing on the frame--when I tightened the headset the whole handlebar becomes stiff turning left/right, but when I loosen it there's visible play. I'm hoping that's it and maybe I just need a shim, but that means that I'll at a minimum have to remove the fork and front brake housing so I can put a shim in there without undoing all of the cable routing  :( I'm going to message Airwolf and get their feedback.

Bike as shown is 17.8 lbs.

21
That's a good point--now that I've done some initial fit testing I should be able to cut it down quite a bit

22
More progress--got the drivetrain set up (at least temporarily) without running the cables through the handlebars. I wanted to get it set up on my trainer so I could start doing some fit assessment (I still have ~8 months left on a MyVeloFit subscription) and get things in the ballpark.

I'm trying not to freak out too much--but the entire front end of the bike is like a wet noodle. From what I can tell, everything is flexing--frame, headset/steerer tube, stem, handlebar. I'm going to try and swap out for a known good handlebar and stem to isolate those components at least, but I'm really concerned this frame will essentially be worthless.

23
Finally figured it out--silly mistake  :).

1. Unscrew the bolt holding the front derailleur housing stop, you'll need to hold the back side of the "spring clip" by putting your finger into the frame so it doesn't spin freely.
2. Once the bolt is loose, remove the housing stop and retrieve the "spring clip" that fell into the bottom bracket area
3. Route the front derailleur housing out of the opening in the frame
4. Thread the spring clip back onto the bolt--only screw on enough to get the thread started
5. Put the assembly on the end of the front derailleur housing
6. Push the assembly back into the opening as far as you can. It won't fully seat because the spring clip needs to be pushed in far enough to "spring" into the opening in the frame. Use an allen/hex wrench to push the bolt (with the spring clip barely threaded on the end) into the frame--pushing the bolt directly will push the spring clip into the frame enough that it will actually grab
7. Screw the bolt until the front derailleur housing step is secured. Note you may need to put your finger on the spring clip so it doesn't rotate

Hopefully that description plus the photos makes it easier for the next person! I routed all three cables up through the down tube--front derailleur in the center (with foam), then rear brake on the brake side and read derailleur housing on the derailleur side. Everything routed through the headset pretty easily.

My OG-EVKIN stem is really tight on the steerer tube, I had to pry it open a bit with a flat head screwdriver to get it to fit (my aluminum stem had no issues fitting, so it seems like a OG-EVKIN stem issue, not the fork steerer tube issue).

Bike is ~15.4lbs so far, need the chain, pedals, bar tape, and seat yet. I'm not looking forward to routing the derailleur/brake lines through the handlebars or bleeding brakes--I may get the bike set up on my trainer and do a few bike fit tests before everything is completed to try and make sure the handlebar height is in the ballpark before routing everything. I plan on leaving a good bit of steerer tube free to make sure I can adjust more as needed down the road.

24
Another update today!

Of course I couldn't wait to start putting things together--so I got started with mounting everything I could. Routing the front/rear brake housings and the rear derailleur housing was pretty uneventful; most of the time I didn't even really worry about using a guide to get the housings through. I have some foam vibration dampers in to prevent rattling.

However--the front derailleur mount is being an absolute pain. It feels like it's too small to insert properly with a ferrule on the end of the housing, and if I don't use a ferrule, the housing bends at a sharp angle (see 3rd and 4th photos), isn't secure in the mount, and the cable grinds against the opening of the mount in the frame and is essentially seized up. I'm not quite sure what to do--I may try to get a small tool in there to bend the mount open a bit and see if I can make it round enough to get a ferrule in there.

Finally--I added some more photos inside the frame that I took with my endoscope camera.

25
Second photo post--some quick early photos trying to take shots inside the frame. I know an elementary level of carbon--I think this is using the air bladder style inside instead of the EPS that newer/nicer frames use? It definitely doesn't look as nice as other internal shots I've seen, but I don't know if it's an unsafe level?

26
Some initial photos...

Power meter and frame arrived today! I was surprised it included both the bottom bracket and headset (I already ordered a bottom bracket). Note I did pay extra to have both 7x7 and 7x9 seatpost mounts available.

27
Small update--UPS tracking shows the package was picked up in Hong Kong with a weight of 4.2kg, and it has an estimated delivery date of tomorrow  ;D. I'm not getting my hopes up that it will actually make it by then since HK -> USA is a long trip! but I do live close to a major UPS hub so it's possible it will be air shipped directly to my city.

The power meter is also in my state! So it should probably be delivered by tomorrow as well.

28
My tracking number got updated to a UPS tracking number, so hopefully that means it will arrive a bit faster than the standard 2 weeks

29
They updated it with a number that looks like a tracking number but has no info yet. I'll be curious how long the shipment takes  :)

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That's helpful context! Mine had an estimated delivery date of 12/2 which seemed unrealistic :D

I really want this order to go through--I really like the YFR066 frame (geometry, specs, etc) and I paid a great price for it, I'm just looking forward to building up my bike :)

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