Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: JJJ on September 29, 2021, 03:08:15 AM
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I ordered a pair of these Goldix GDX-240EXP:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html
A very close clone of the DT's, except for the spoke offset values. I received them pretty fast and still need to mount them. They look pretty well made, anyway. I'm wondering if the DT torque caps fit...
Anyone tried them already?
Similar clones are Venfort PRO4, with a large range of colors:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005003156428664.html
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Very interesting !
I am curious about the build quality, long term logevity and also the noise level !
Did you found some reviews ?
Please post you review here ! :)
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I bought a pair of Road Hubs here:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003334898387.html
Will see how they are!
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I have two ZTTO 190 54t star ratchet hubs on the bench waiting to be built up.
J-Bend
Ordered a Venfort Boost 36t Hub for my Koski Bomber. Also J bend... Ha the "pro 4" logo looks just like the Hope. I guess imitation is the highest form of flattery.
Will give updates once I get some miles on them.
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The ztto 54t ratchets in the M1 hubs fail….it is known
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The ztto 54t ratchets in the M1 hubs fail….it is known
Sources? I read that 54T ratchets were unreliable in general, even the original DTs, because the teeth are very shallow and sensitive to dirt or even too much (or too thick) grease. The DT 240EXPs even had a premature wear problem, and offer an upgrade kit (https://www.dtswiss.com/en/ratchet-exp-maintenance-notice). That's why I went for the 36T and not the 54 or 60T.
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i also want to share my experience, bought a pair of Velosa wheels with OEM hubs, DT350 replica it seems, below some pictures.
the ratchet wheel was very bad, i had multiple occurrences of "jumps" over the teeth losing traction on the pedal and it's very dangerous in my opinion especially when climbing.
i replaced the ratchet with original DT swiss 54T and it's like reborn, luckily for me since i wouldn't like to swap the full hub honestly.
on the front wheel, the hub is ok when mounted in the fork, but it has some loose when unmounted.
BTW can you see in the picture the bearing sitting inside the XD body? should i also change bearing in your opinions?
thanks!
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But ZTTO is not the same than this Goldix right? I didn´t receive them yet.
Also the replica 350 are not the same, they look more like ZTTO.
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I received the hubs, they look very good! Even one bearing (only one, I don´t know why) is from NTN. The others are from NRW.
My model is GDR310 so, no EXP240 version. The weight was 319, so very good, close to DT 240 in terms of weight.
Do you know any official website for this Goldix brand?
These are some pictures:
The most particular thing, from my point of view, is the red parts. The last one is like a lock ring to keep the spring in the correct position. This is missing in the DT Swiss desing. I think that these red parts are adding a bit of weight, this 10 grams of difference:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7959;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7961;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7965;image)
Freehub pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7963;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7969;image)
NTN bearing:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7971;image)
Hub general pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7967;image)
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Did you get a picture of the mating faces of the two gold parts?
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No, I don´t know how to dismantle this red part. But it looks to me two pieces like the old DT Swiss ratchet.
Hub geometry:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7975)
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I asked because it is that face that is failing in the knock off hubs. You might want to contact the seller and ask for instructions on how to dismantle it so that you can replace those parts if they fail, which hopefully they won't.
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I just dismantle, some more pictures:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7990;image)
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7992;image)
Red parts:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7996;image)
Spring retention ring:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7994;image)
Ratchet rings:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=7998;image)
I will compare with my DT350 hub that I have already... just to see if they are compatible like everybody says.
it could be good, DT replacements are easy to find.
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Nice work.
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Thanx you ultreia.
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Regarding the original manufacturer, could it be https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub?
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DT350 freehub and ratchet rings are fully compatible with this Goldix GDR-310.
About Yuanan, I am not sure if it is the real factory. For one Goldix MTB MH14, could be for this road hub I couldn´t find in their website.
Bearings:
Front hub: 2x6902
Rear hub: 2x6902 (hub body) + 2x6802 (freehub)
In comparison with a DT 350 hub, the freehub also have 6902 bearings. In a sense, more reliable.
Some weight comparison of freehub and ratchet rings:
Goldix freehub - 44 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8010;image)
DT freehub - 62 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8016;image)
Goldix ratchet rings- 14 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8014;image)
DT ratchet rings - 23 grams
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3428.0;attach=8012;image)
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So except the bearing size which is different, the Goldix GDR-310 is a perfect copy of the DT350?
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In terms of geometry are similar but not the same.
Also DT350 weights around 360
DT240 EXP weights around 310
And this hubset weights around 320, so in terms of weight they are more similar to DT 240 (internals are quite equal in 240 and 350).
About bearings, freehub are different, compatible but Goldix freehub uses 6802 bearings and DT 6902 bearings (in old ratchet). Comparing with DT 240 EXP, this are a bit better, it uses 1526 (15 x 26 x 7 mm) bearings, so bigger ball race than 6802, so we assume that they have longer life.
In terms of bearings lasting 6902 > 1526 (15 x 26 x 7 mm) > 6802... theoretically.
Just a note: Goldix front hub uses 6902 and I think that it could be enough to use 6802 in this case and this will save some grams.
DT240 EXP front hub 24 holes center lock -> 104 grams
Goldix GDR310 front hub 24 holes center lock -> 113 grams
DT240 EXP rear hub 24 holes center lock -> between 204-210
Goldix GDR310 rear hub 24 holes centerl lock -> 206 grams
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I ordered a pair of these Goldix GDX-240EXP:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html
A very close clone of the DT's, except for the spoke offset values. I received them pretty fast and still need to mount them. They look pretty well made, anyway.
OK, I've tested them now on a few rides with long ascents (600+ m) with steep technical portions (the kind of terrain I thought could break the ratchet teeth). Everything good so far, and confidence inspiring.
They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
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i also want to share my experience, bought a pair of Velosa wheels with OEM hubs, DT350 replica it seems, below some pictures.
the ratchet wheel was very bad, i had multiple occurrences of "jumps" over the teeth losing traction on the pedal and it's very dangerous in my opinion especially when climbing.
i replaced the ratchet with original DT swiss 54T and it's like reborn, luckily for me since i wouldn't like to swap the full hub honestly.
on the front wheel, the hub is ok when mounted in the fork, but it has some loose when unmounted.
Well, you seem to have been unlucky. I didn't want to go for the 54T, because I read they were sensitive to dirt and even too much (or too thick) grease, even the original DTs. I went for the 36T, and they are fine so far.
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They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
The noise they make is like this (pick your number of teeth):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qidu3rvJqCA
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OK, I've tested them now on a few rides with long ascents (600+ m) with steep technical portions (the kind of terrain I thought could break the ratchet teeth). Everything good so far, and confidence inspiring.
They make a helluva noise. But that is known. At least the hikers are warned of my arrival. Don't need a bell, just stop pedaling ;-)
About noise, I saw in my GDR310 that there is no much grease in the ratchet, so it could be the reason for the loud noise.
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About noise, I saw in my GDR310 that there is no much grease in the ratchet, so it could be the reason for the loud noise.
The noise is perfectly normal, and the small amount of grease too. Put too much grease in the ratchet, and it will fail, because the teeth on the two rings will not mate properly, the grease getting in the way.
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I have the Venfort "Pro4" version of this hub.
Front is perfect, about 500km so far not a single issue.
Rear is about 100km and is also good, except when I stripped it down after 30km or so to make sure everything looked ok. The inner ratchet had jammed into the body. I managed to get it out by tapping the backside with a drift I made using an old screwdriver. I contacted Venfort who told me that the ratchet is inner/outer specific. Although there is no visual indication of this at all. I swapped the ratchet pieces around and have had no further jamming issues though.
As for sound, I ride with a guy that has a DT 360 with 36T ratchet, this hub sounds identical. The hub does have a slight "off centre" sound which makes the volume rise and fall slightly, noticeable when riding but not to a spectator.
The hub came with a spare set of driver bearings also which is nice.
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Hi, these hubs looks good for my new custom wheelset, but I have one question: is there the same brake rotor offset as in DT 350? I wonder because I will use two wheel sets from time to time, and adjusting the calliper everytime is quite annoying. I have this kind of "problem" in my road/gravel bike using DT and RYET hubs. Did anyone compared the two (DT, Goldix) ?
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I bought a pair of Goldix GDX 370 hubs on AliExpress. The first time I tried to mount a brake rotor on the front hub, the threads stripped out of 2 of the 6 bolt holes! I contacted the vendor, they asked for pictures, I sent them, they told me it was my fault.
Fortunately no such problem with the rear... but I'm not expecting the 36T star ratchet to last very long, after the experience with the stripped rotor holes.
DO NOT BUY FROM GOLDIX.
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That's why I use centerlock :) I forgot to mention that my rotor offset differences were on CL hubs.
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That's why I use centerlock :) I forgot to mention that my rotor offset differences were on CL hubs.
over 20 carbon wheelsets here - most all all DT350 hubs - all 6 bolt. Never stripped out one even after repeated rotor swaps.
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I am very happy with my Goldix at this moment.
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too bad they aren't produce 6 bolts version in this exp240.
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Anyone know Ali has parts that are compatible parts with genuine DT stuff? I have a couple of wheels i picked up second hand (Roval and Bontrager) with missing free hubs (think it was 3 pawl) an axle and end caps and i'm too cheap to buy genuine. Would be good to find some bits for them :)
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Lots of buyers of the star ratchet clones have had success substituting actual DT Swiss parts for knockoff ratchets that failed. Presumably you could go the other way, but why?
I don't know if the pawl freehubs are close enough to swap.
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Please excuse my ignorance but what kind of benefits does an EXP style hub provide over a standard one? I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there and DT Swiss seems to consistently rank at or near the top
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Please excuse my ignorance but what kind of benefits does an EXP style hub provide over a standard one? I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there and DT Swiss seems to consistently rank at or near the top
The new style exp hubs have issues at the moment from what i've read. They only exist because the DT patient on the original star ratchet expired. Best avoided. 36 tooth two piece star ratchets are the most reliable design around as far as i know but they might not be as loud as the other versions with more teeth (i haven't tried them).
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I'm really just looking for the absolute loudest hub out there
Take a look at ARC mt009 (or mt006 if you need non-boost) hubs on aliexpress. They are using traditional design with 36 tooth ring and 6 pawls with 3 teeth on each. At every moment 3 of 6 pawls are engaged, so you'll get 5 degrees engagement and these hubs are loud as f##k.
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My Venfort did not last 50 miles. Ordered a Hope Pro 4 and have to rebuild my wheels, The Koozer DT clones I have in the shop seem much better made, going to try them out .
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My Venfort did not last 50 miles. Ordered a Hope Pro 4 and have to rebuild my wheels, The Koozer DT clones I have in the shop seem much better made, going to try them out .
Can you be please more specific what went wrong? Wasn't there a change to replace ratchet with original DT or ZTTO internals?
I am considering Venfort as new DT350 are not available and rebuilding wheels is kind of waste of quite some money....
Thanks a lot
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I submerged my Venfort hubs with the (dual) exp style ratchets in a creek and it started to slip. I replaced the springs and normal/old style 36pt "DT ratchets" from my Koozer clones and things are good so far. The machining on the exp style ratchets may have been the issue, I suspect one of the ratchet rings was not moving in the channels. Ordered another set of the old style 36pt ratchets from aliexpress as backups.
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The machining on the exp style ratchets may have been the issue, I suspect one of the ratchet rings was not moving in the channels.
Not saying this is what happened to you, but when I serviced my Venfort hub one of the rings was stuck, I reached out to venfort who advised that the rings are actually handed, when I got the stuck ring out I reversed their position and have had no further issues. I cannot see any physical difference between the rings, but I haven't done any measurements either. Have a heap of kms on them now, regularly racing and am happy with them.
The bearings in my front hub got noisy quickly so I swapped them out. The bearings had very little light grease in them.
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I've been thinking about building up a wheel set with the Goldix 240EXP hubs but am a bit concerned with the ratchet reliability. I'm a larger rider (210 lbs) and pour out a decent amount of power on some of the steep bits. How have the 36T ratchets been? Would it be worth swapping DT Swiss ratchets right away? Or bringing spares along when I ride?
Any other recommendations on light 148mm hubs?
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Goldix hubs are great. I’m a big dude and ride like a gorilla and break everything
36t ratchet is solid…I’ve blown up a LOT of hubs.
This is much more solid than the ztto hubs
I’ve been riding them for a year hard Mtb riding on a bike with high pedal kickback that blows up a lot of hubs this one is SOLID.
Bearings are a little cheap I expect I’ll need to replace the outboard bearing but these are cheap common and readily available .
They will also do custom logos for a reasonable price if you are not into gold Dix
I’ve hucked my bike to the point of exploding tires are rims and these hubs took it
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So I just received my Goldix 240 hubs yesterday. Very fast shipping, only 10 days to California. (I ordered from the Goldix store on Ali)
The hubs look really nice and the rear hub feels smooth. However, the front hub feels notched, as if one or both bearings are damaged. I reported this to Goldix and they suggested "adding more lube oil" which I don't think is a valid solution.
Given that the factory bearings aren't great to begin with, should I push them for replacements, or just go ahead and order higher quality replacements? I'm still waiting on rims and need to order spokes, so no hurry yet.
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Given that the factory bearings aren't great to begin with, should I push them for replacements, or just go ahead and order higher quality replacements? I'm still waiting on rims and need to order spokes, so no hurry yet.
Why bother with replacements that are potentially just as bad? I’d suggest getting the higher quality bearings for peace of mind.
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If I understood the earlier posts correctly, the Goldix 240EXP front hubs use 6902 bearings and the rear hubs use 6802 bearings, correct?
How do you remove the freehub? It appears to just pull off, like the DT Swiss hubs, but mine won't budge.
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I have many experiences with Chinese ratchet hubs. Their built-in bearings are bad. Some are bad at first before use. Some became bad after using 2-3 months (600-900 km) and need to replace. I think their bearings are not water-resistant.
So, my suggestions are
- put lubricants before start using.
- and if it goes bad after using it for a while, replace it with a good-quality one. (Though you replaced new bearing, it still cheaper)
for 60t clone ratchet, I have no issue with so far.
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So anyone got any updates or experiences with Gold Dix road hubs? I'm thinking of trying to lace my own wheel for the first time and wondering if this is a good place to start.
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I can recommend the Novatec hubs. About the same price as Goldix.
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I can recommend the Novatec hubs. About the same price as Goldix.
Which novatec hubs do you recommend? The 411/412 that I see for a lot of builds or something else? Also how much are you paying for the hub set?
I’m thinking I may just “splurge” and get a set of dt 350 straight pull. Seems like they can be found around $250CAD (180usd) and given that the goldix hubs will likely need bearing replacement in a short while there probably wouldn’t be too much savings.
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I have the 411/412 and the 791/792. Generally they are not that much different. The 411/412 are straightpull and lighter but the general build is about the same... I mostly buy on ali when there are sales but they are now about 95€ and 125€.
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I'm 2 for 3 on Novatec 792 driver failure. The internal ratchet/toothed ring in the hub shattered on 2 of the 3 wheelsets I built with them. Bother were replaced with DT350 hubs without issue. I will say they were 2014 vintage 792s so maybe the design has improved since then.
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I have the 771-772 hubs. Novatec is mix and match with a lot of their models. the qr, thru axles, hg/xd(r) hubs swap the same for 772, 792, and 412 for the hubs. The front 771 and 792 aren't the same. I haven't messed with my 411/412 enough to know what's all swap-able.
old little guide I found
http://www.nguide.eu/faq/evolution-d771sb-and-xd611sb
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I finally built up my wheels with the Goldix 240 hubs. I wasn't able to mount the brake rotor on the front wheel though. The Centerlock ring appeared to bottom out before the reaching the rotor. I never felt it engage the notches on the rotor and I could wiggle the rotor a bit. I tried a new Tektro rotor and the old Shimano rotor I had been using on my old wheelset and both had the same result. (On my old wheelset, with Shimano hubs, the notches engage shortly after the Centerlock ring becomes too tight to turn by hand.)
Anyone else run into an issue like this? Is this a defective hub, or are there workarounds?
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I finally built up my wheels with the Goldix 240 hubs. I wasn't able to mount the brake rotor on the front wheel though. The Centerlock ring appeared to bottom out before the reaching the rotor. I never felt it engage the notches on the rotor and I could wiggle the rotor a bit. I tried a new Tektro rotor and the old Shimano rotor I had been using on my old wheelset and both had the same result. (On my old wheelset, with Shimano hubs, the notches engage shortly after the Centerlock ring becomes too tight to turn by hand.)
Anyone else run into an issue like this? Is this a defective hub, or are there workarounds?
A picture of the problem would help.
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It appears that the anodizing on the front hub was causing the issue. I tried screwing in the lock ring without the rotor and it became difficult to turn well before it was screwed in all the way. I tightened and untightened it a few times and was able to get it farther in, so I think it just needed to clear the threads. I was able to tighten the rotor down, but I'll put a paint witness mark so I can see if it works loose.
No issues with the rear hub.
Now I just need to wait for the longer valve stems. I'm very eager to test out my first wheels and see how much of difference they make!
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Hello, do you know if it does exist in 32 holes?
Thanks
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It appears that the anodizing on the front hub was causing the issue. I tried screwing in the lock ring without the rotor and it became difficult to turn well before it was screwed in all the way. I tightened and untightened it a few times and was able to get it farther in, so I think it just needed to clear the threads. I was able to tighten the rotor down, but I'll put a paint witness mark so I can see if it works loose.
No issues with the rear hub.
Now I just need to wait for the longer valve stems. I'm very eager to test out my first wheels and see how much of difference they make!
I had the same problem! Luckily I was building my wheels at the college bike shop and the grizzled tech there just got me a longer wrench and encouraged me to go for it. With a little more leverage I was able to fully tighten my front brake. Overall, the hubs looks good. I'll post after I put some miles on them.
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I have about 20 miles on the wheelset I built up with Goldix 240 hubs and elite rims. No issues with the hubs, and the wheels seem to be holding up pretty well so far. This was my first wheel build, so I'm taking it fairly easy on them for a bit.
I am enjoying the 920 g weight saving over my old rims though!
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I'm 2 for 3 on Novatec 792 driver failure. The internal ratchet/toothed ring in the hub shattered on 2 of the 3 wheelsets I built with them. Bother were replaced with DT350 hubs without issue. I will say they were 2014 vintage 792s so maybe the design has improved since then.
I built two wheelsets with 791/792 Novatecs. Bought them on Ali during the last two years. Both have been bulletproof so far. I like that they are easily convertible. One of the wheelsets has been used with thru axle and now it’s in a frame with QR dropouts. The other wheelset has been used with Shimano freehub. Then with Sram XDR and now with a Campagnolo N3W freehub and an Ekar groupset. This flexibility is a huge plus with Novatec hubs IMO. I have however had freehub bearings fail prematurely particularly on Novatec freehub bodies.
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I built up a 29er wheelset with the Venfort ratchet hubs. After replacing the original 60t ratchet (it failed) the wheels have been really good. Here is a video about my initial experience.
https://youtu.be/csFMpjkXg1Y (https://youtu.be/csFMpjkXg1Y)
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I built two wheelsets with 791/792 Novatecs. Bought them on Ali during the last two years. Both have been bulletproof so far. I like that they are easily convertible. One of the wheelsets has been used with thru axle and now it’s in a frame with QR dropouts. The other wheelset has been used with Shimano freehub. Then with Sram XDR and now with a Campagnolo N3W freehub and an Ekar groupset. This flexibility is a huge plus with Novatec hubs IMO. I have however had freehub bearings fail prematurely particularly on Novatec freehub bodies.
Same here... I have built several wheelsets with the 411/412 and 791/792 hubs and I am quite happy with them, certainly given the price. You have to keep an eye on the bearings, yes, but they are easy to replace. Replacement parts and body are easy to find (the Novatec site and Ali) and are quite cheap.
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How much are y’all paying for the novatec hubs? I’m seeing ~$210 CAD on alix for the 411/412 which is about $40-50 cheaper then dt 350. Once you factor in the likelihood that the bearing won’t last too long doesn’t it make more sense to get the dt 350? I guess the biggest downside to the dt 350 is the extra 100g.
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I paid 110eur for the last set I bought during the sales in November. It was with a HG body. XD will be more expensive
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I bought an original dt350 CL boost and it weights 219 grams, SRAM XD . Are you sure there's extra weight compared to D412?
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How much are y’all paying for the novatec hubs? I’m seeing ~$210 CAD on alix for the 411/412 which is about $40-50 cheaper then dt 350. Once you factor in the likelihood that the bearing won’t last too long doesn’t it make more sense to get the dt 350? I guess the biggest downside to the dt 350 is the extra 100g.
When I bought the 791/792, they were about 80 EUR per set on Ali. I think they're more expensive now. Either way, that's way cheaper than a set of DT350s. I wouldn't even get a rear hub for that money, let alone a complete set.
I only ever had trouble with the freehub bearings on Novatec hubs. But even those can be replaced for very little money. So I think they're definitely worth their money. DTs are bulletproof as well, however. If you're prepared to pay for them, that is. I got a set with 350s and they just last and last.
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I bought an original dt350 CL boost and it weights 219 grams, SRAM XD . Are you sure there's extra weight compared to D412?
I don't think they are heavier. A little more expensive, but I must say I have also been thinking of going that route
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When I bought the 791/792, they were about 80 EUR per set on Ali. I think they're more expensive now. Either way, that's way cheaper than a set of DT350s. I wouldn't even get a rear hub for that money, let alone a complete set.
I only ever had trouble with the freehub bearings on Novatec hubs. But even those can be replaced for very little money. So I think they're definitely worth their money. DTs are bulletproof as well, however. If you're prepared to pay for them, that is. I got a set with 350s and they just last and last.
Ya 80 EUR is a solid price for the set. I’m seeing about 110 EUR just for the rear dt 350 and another 40 EUR for the front. I’m just doing preliminary research on building my own wheels and hopefully in a few months I will actually do it. For those that are not building their own wheels and are paying a LBS to do the work, I would only go for the novatec hubs if the price difference is >100CAD (70EUR). Anything less and it doesn’t make much sense considering the reliability factor and cost to get a LBS to do the hub maintenance (~50-70CAD in my area).
I would also look out for some sales in the near future for the previous gen 350 hubs now that they finally released an updated version of the road hub 2 weeks ago.
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I don't think they are heavier. A little more expensive, but I must say I have also been thinking of going that route
I have a set of Velosa MTB wheels, with their own replica of a DT350. On the front i replaced bearings almost immediately.on the rear I put original DT ratchet because the one installed jumped over its teeth continuously, after 1 year i noticed the cassette was not straight when rotating, but an oscillating phenomenon was hurting gear shifts. Eventually i replaced the hub with the real one....but of course this is just my experience i guess novatec is far better than these replicas
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
BDOP Cycling-$170 for just the hubs or $350 as a DIY wheelset build kit
https://bdopcycling.com/hubs-xcross-2/ (https://bdopcycling.com/hubs-xcross-2/)
https://bdopcycling.com/product/bdop-diy-kit-alloy-road-disc-xi/ (https://bdopcycling.com/product/bdop-diy-kit-alloy-road-disc-xi/)
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Any recommendations for budget hubs ticking following boxes: 11s shimano road compatible, 135mm QR, center lock preferred over 6 bolt. Looking to modernize my older CX frame.
I am pretty sure the Novatec 411/412 can be run as a QR with the end caps. those tick all of your boxes and are super light and affordable (110-130$ for the pair)
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Hi all.
I'm looking for budget Boost hubs with MS and Centerlock.
Goldix M370 or Novatec? Novatec has a significant weight penalty but maybe reliable due to the pawl system vs the ratchet on the Goldix.
Any thoughts?
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Hi, why not ZTTO M1? I got the set one season and as far it looks OK. Little less weight than DT350.
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Hi all.
I'm looking for budget Boost hubs with MS and Centerlock.
Goldix M370 or Novatec? Novatec has a significant weight penalty but maybe reliable due to the pawl system vs the ratchet on the Goldix.
Any thoughts?
I have also been looking at all these other brands on Aliexpress. A lot are lighter or cheaper than Novatec but I like the availability of spare parts for the Novatec hubs... Here in the EU you can find a lot of parts in known webshops and the webshop of Novatec is very complete and reasonably priced.
There are sales at Ali for the moments with very tempting prices for the Novatec hubs.
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Hi, why not ZTTO M1? I got the set one season and as far it looks OK. Little less weight than DT350.
Thanks but the ZTTO M1 thread is full of ratchet failures... Maybe the 36T is safer I have no idea.
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...
There are sales at Ali for the moments with very tempting prices for the Novatec hubs.
Could you link some? The spare parts though is valid also.
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I know, I asked them for 36t ratchet.
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Could you link some? The spare parts though is valid also.
Not exactly what you are looking for, but this seller is cheap...
US $35.39 55%OFF | Novatec D791SB-CL D792SB-CL Center Lock Disc Brake MTB Hubs Thru axle 100x12 142x12MM 24 Holes Road Bicycle Hubs ABG FREEHUB 11S
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mstavsq
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Thanks but the ZTTO M1 thread is full of ratchet failures... Maybe the 36T is safer I have no idea.
The 6-bolt brake version has a pawl system with 72 clicks if you don't want ratchet. They have this one as well for j-bend spokes, but its heavier https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003541415410.html
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Does anyone have the Yuan An RD13 hubs on a wheelset? I was quoted for a pretty good price last year for 2 wheelsets but eventually cheaped out on local 2nd hand DT350 wheels
Here is their comparison chart
(https://i.imgur.com/sxreUIy.png)
The full quote was 910USD for 2 carbon wheelsets with their hubs and pillar spokes
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Does anyone know any chinese brands that make 20f/24r centrelock hubsets?
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Any boost MTB hubs recommendation? I would like ratchet and light. I found the Venfort and Goldix M180. Any other similar with better weight?
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Where do you guys get your bearings for the novatec wheels?
Particularly
Novatec D412SB-CL: 15267
Novatec D411SB-CL: 6803
Novatec A291SB-SL: 689
Novatec F482SB-SL: 6802 and 15267
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Where do you guys get your bearings for the novatec wheels?
Particularly
Novatec D412SB-CL: 15267
Novatec D411SB-CL: 6803
Novatec A291SB-SL: 689
Novatec F482SB-SL: 6802 and 15267
I buy most of my bearings here:
https://kandebearingsshop.aliexpress.com/store/3862082?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11492976.0 (https://kandebearingsshop.aliexpress.com/store/3862082?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11492976.0)
https://fushi.aliexpress.com/store/511615?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_promotion.pcShopHead_6005667.0 (https://fushi.aliexpress.com/store/511615?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_promotion.pcShopHead_6005667.0)
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Does anyone know any chinese brands that make 20f/24r centrelock hubsets?
I'm assuming for road hub spacing?
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Any boost MTB hubs recommendation? I would like ratchet and light. I found the Venfort and Goldix M180. Any other similar with better weight?
I built up a set of wheels with Goldix 240 hubs (36T) and they've held up well for about 400 miles so far. I'm about 95 kg with gear and like cranking up super steep stuff in my 30/51 gear, so they can handle the torque pretty well.
The bearings still seem fine but I will probably order a replacement set soon so that I have them if needed.
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I'm assuming for road hub spacing?
Yup! Oops I shouldve specified in my original comment
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004265725514.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.15055238EYPWYa&algo_pvid=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e&algo_exp_id=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21NZD%21140.06%21140.06%21%21%2181.21%21%21%402101d4a716933085757727818e4686%2112000028569138531%21sea%21NZ%21784578575%21&curPageLogUid=DBl2IkIQEWZb
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000794822656.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.15055238EYPWYa&algo_pvid=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e&algo_exp_id=98380338-3df9-4e85-a8ed-f8c236650d0e-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21NZD%21164.88%21148.39%21%21%2195.60%21%21%402101d4a716933085757727818e4686%2110000007894531276%21sea%21NZ%21784578575%21&curPageLogUid=BTJj9KH8wF3i
I can't make any comment on quality other than to say these exist.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
That seems to be very common with these hubs...
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Is this a case of an expired patent? It seems that throughout the past year every single Chinese wheelseller started to offer a set with copies of various models of DT Swiss hubs. All of them ratchet.
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Is this a case of an expired patent? It seems that throughout the past year every single Chinese wheelseller started to offer a set with copies of various models of DT Swiss hubs. All of them ratchet.
Yes. Old model 240 was an incredible hub, and when the patent expired, everyone copied it, DTSwiss made a new one that is objectively inferior and ramped up the marketing to hide the fact old 240 was peak design
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I see. But it's not only the 240 hub shell I see copies of. I've also seen copies of the DiCut hubs. But I guess the patent only applies to the internals and the ratchet mechanism anyway. Good for the consumers, that this tech is now open to everyone. As long as they manage to copy it properly without the stuff breaking upon first use, that is.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
Thanks for the reminder! I just cleaned out and lightly regreased the ratchets in my wifes new hub. They only have 50 miles but she said that she thought she felt it slip once or twice, everything looked perfect. I ordered a spare a genuine DT 24t ratchet set to keep on her bike to keep from being stranded. It would be a shame for such a small and light spare part to not carry one.
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Hello everyone, I want to share my experience of using the GOLDIX 240 EXP hub. As soon as I assembled the wheel, on the first ride the ratchet slipped under load, various lubricants didt help, and in the end, after 100 km the ratchet broke.
Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
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If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
As far as i know there were also quite some riders having issues with ST Swiss 54 teeth Ratchet. It's just getting more sensitive to tolerances with rising teeth number.
The advice to go for 36T is something, that I also read and it did work for a ZTTO hub (it usually comes with 54, but they changed it to 36 for me). My Goldix hub does have a 36T ratchet, too.
The ZTTO M1 hub has 1000km so far, as no slipping happened so far, I will expect that it will work now until fatigue changes the situation. The Goldix 21H Ratchet has "only" 300km so far, I just finished the wheels very recently. No slipping so far.
My thesis: these systems may work very good for riders with low force on the pedals. (Either low power and/or high cadence ).. but being strong may immediately overstress the mechanic, which would then lead to an early failure.
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If you've had to do that much maintenance in so few miles I don't think the hubs are up for the job. My last 240 was fine evern after 10k miles and no service and require a single bearing replacement at that point.
I bought some chiner hubs last year and they were shite, looked good though mind you.
I've relubed the ratchet twice. The first time was when it was new and I wanted to ensure it was properly lubed. The second was when I was chasing down a creaking noise that turned out to be a cassette issue. The hub hasn't given me any cause for alarm. I'm 95kg and like to ride up some really steep stuff, so I've given them a pretty good workout so far.
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
36T They are ZTTO R2 and so far so good. I just wanted to check on it after a couple of rides.
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Blown up 2 Ztto M1 hubs. killed the 54t ratchets replaced with fovno ratchets then killed the spline that connects the ratchet to the hub.
Have multiple sets of Goldix hubs that I beat on.
Goldix hubs have been bullet proof. Oldest Running for 2 years now trouble free
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Blown up 2 Ztto M1 hubs. killed the 54t ratchets replaced with fovno ratchets then killed the spline that connects the ratchet to the hub.
Have multiple sets of Goldix hubs that I beat on.
Goldix hubs have been bullet proof. Oldest Running for 2 years now trouble free
Are your Goldix ratchets 54 or 36t?
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Was this the 54T or 36T ratchet? I've heard of a lot of issues with the 54T. I have a 36T and it has been solid for close to 500 miles. I've cleaned and lined it a couple times, making sure to use a light lube sparingly.
I probably will replace it with a DT Swiss ratchet at some point though.
It was 36T ratchet
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Thanks for the reminder! I just cleaned out and lightly regreased the ratchets in my wifes new hub. They only have 50 miles but she said that she thought she felt it slip once or twice, everything looked perfect. I ordered a spare a genuine DT 24t ratchet set to keep on her bike to keep from being stranded. It would be a shame for such a small and light spare part to not carry one.
The seller sent a new ratchet under warranty, asked to send an 18t ratchet, I hope everything will be fine this time
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
The novatec 411/412 are road hubs, that's anyway not the correct for MTB?
I run Goldix Road hubs for roughly 400km.
I am still not 100% sure that the Ratchet will stay alive. But that's also because I read so much about failing Goldix Ratchets. I have 36T version.
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The novatec 411/412 are road hubs, that's anyway not the correct for MTB?
I run Goldix Road hubs for roughly 400km.
I am still not 100% sure that the Ratchet will stay alive. But that's also because I read so much about failing Goldix Ratchets. I have 36T version.
I have a non-boost frame and I would change the end caps of the front hub to 15x100 (rear is 12x142). So this would fit. I have done the same with the 791/792 hubs that I am running now...
The R180 are also not specifically for MTB, but I asked the seller to change the caps to 15x100 and they agreed to do that.
They have a MTB specific set, the M180, but that was a lot more expensive, and by the looks of it, the only difference are the end caps and the XD freehub instead of the XDR.
This hubset uses a new kind of ratched it seems. So let's hope is does not fail like the older ones... This is the reason why I have stayed far away from these hubs until now...
EDIT: My MTB only sees very light use. It is for about 10 winter rides a year on some singletracks etc. I don't do big jumps or anything like that. That is why I am comfortable using 24-spoke road hubs on my MTB.
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I have a non-boost frame and I would change the end caps of the front hub to 15x100 (rear is 12x142). So this would fit. I have done the same with the 791/792 hubs that I am running now...
The R180 are also not specifically for MTB, but I asked the seller to change the caps to 15x100 and they agreed to do that.
They have a MTB specific set, the M180, but that was a lot more expensive, and by the looks of it, the only difference are the end caps and the XD freehub instead of the XDR.
This hubset uses a new kind of ratched it seems. So let's hope is does not fail like the older ones... This is the reason why I have stayed far away from these hubs until now...
EDIT: My MTB only sees very light use. It is for about 10 winter rides a year on some singletracks etc. I don't do big jumps or anything like that. That is why I am comfortable using 24-spoke road hubs on my MTB.
I didn't take non boost into account. There are too many "standards" flying around for bicycles.
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Anyone have experience with ryet hubs? Hambinis review of the ratchet ones was positive. I am thinking of getting ryet gravel wheels. They are offered in two hub versions - 6 pawl system or 36t ratchet. I am not convinced to those chineese ratchets. Wonder how the 6 pawls are. I have 3 pawl system in my syncros wheels and they spin very good, even better then my dt350 18t.so kinda curious about those 6 pawls.
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
I have just done my first ride with the Goldix 180 hubs... These things are insanely loud... Like embarrassingly loud... I really don't like it. I think loud hubs are for show-offs with very expensive bikes and these are the loudest I have heard... I had already put a lot of grease on the ratchets so this will probably be the most quiet I can get them.
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I'd like to hear those compared to my Industry 9 Hydra. I need to get some grease for it as well.
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I have just done my first ride with the Goldix 180 hubs... These things are insanely loud... Like embarrassingly loud... I really don't like it. I think loud hubs are for show-offs with very expensive bikes and these are the loudest I have heard... I had already put a lot of grease on the ratchets so this will probably be the most quiet I can get them.
Can confirm, 60T in R180SL is insanely loud.
WIll try 54T from DT 240 EXP to compare, also ordered 36T.
EXP is loud in general...
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UIB5j9OEYws
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BTW.
I built 5-10 wheelsets in past 12 months with Goldix hubs and sold them to friends/customers
Following them closely, all satisfied, some are pushing 5000km. Not huge numbers, but still indicative.
My wheelsets are also Goldix, of course, and i have no issue.
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Can confirm, 60T in R180SL is insanely loud.
WIll try 54T from DT 240 EXP to compare, also ordered 36T.
EXP is loud in general...
Nice to know it's not in my head. Keep us updated... I see there are 18T EXP ratchets from ZTTO
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So yesterday I ordered a set of Goldix R180 hubs. Looks like new version and I got a really good early bird deal that I could not let pass.
Planning to build a lightweight MTB wheelset with it.
I really wanted a set of Novatec 411/412 hubs, but every Aliexpress seller that I tried to buy them off had been scamming me until now... So now I'm gonna try the Goldix hub I have been trying to avoid ;D
R180 is road hubset.
Easy with Goldix, first letter tells if it is Mtb or Road version.
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R180SL with Nextie NXT 40/45deep rims.
Will be on bike in next few days :)
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R180 is road hubset.
Easy with Goldix, first letter tells if it is Mtb or Road version.
Yes, I know, you can read in my following posts why I've chosen these hubs for my MTB.
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BTW.
They have many models. If you've choose one, which would that be?
I built 5-10 wheelsets in past 12 months with Goldix hubs and sold them to friends/customers
Following them closely, all satisfied, some are pushing 5000km. Not huge numbers, but still indicative.
My wheelsets are also Goldix, of course, and i have no issue.
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i used many of them, R310SL 28h for gravel set, R180 for some road.
R240SL and R180SL just lately, but most of them is on that model that doesn't have model number, no logo, just ratchet 24h and weight around 290 grams. They are just normal ratchet and not to loud, best choice for most wheelsets.
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i used many of them, R310SL 28h for gravel set, R180 for some road.
R240SL and R180SL just lately, but most of them is on that model that doesn't have model number, no logo, just ratchet 24h and weight around 290 grams. They are just normal ratchet and not to loud, best choice for most wheelsets.
So you used R180SL for a new set of MTB wheels, do you know what was the weight you got?
As far as I could see the M180 weights around 350 grams, https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006065318449.html and can´t see any difference from R180 version who weights the same https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006057668006.html.
I was just planning to use this Goldix 240EXP, 309 grams, https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003014289678.html.
I did some builds with GDR310 and they were reliable and if not, you could get the ratchets from DT Swiss 350, compatible with them.
What would be your recommendation to build a new XC Wheelset?
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I got some new wheels from BITRANZ. Over the moon with them. They use a Goldix 310 rear hub because I need a 135mm QR for my MTB. The hubs felt great and run super smooth. Time will tell. I have had them from 1 week so far and ridden 400 miles which is not far enough to test long term reliability. It was a punt to try these hubs but on face-value, they seem to be the biz...but fook me they're too loud!
The wheels weight 1308g, 29er 30x30mm rims which I'm pleased with.
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Is Goldix M180 new hub? It's about 40g heavier for a set than M240, but comes with 52T ratchet in contrary to M240 that comes with 36T. And looks like there are some parts for 180 series available too.
@Aliexpress Test Pilot what goldix hubs do you own?
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Is Goldix M180 new hub? It's about 40g heavier for a set than M240, but comes with 52T ratchet in contrary to M240 that comes with 36T. And looks like there are some parts for 180 series available too.
Yes, as far as I know they are new. I think the weight is very good for the price. The R180 and M180 are the same for the most part.
With the sale they are at a reasonable price again. They have been about 95 USD (EU tax incl) before sale.
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I've found this video (google translation needed): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT0xaA81PI4
He talks about almost all models, but doesn't recommend both 240 and 180 due to ratchet failures and only 370 and 310 are options to go or 240 with large outer spline, not threaded. 370 and 310 are also compatible with DT ratchets. Lighter 310 model uses aluminium ratchet ring and he says this ring tends to wear, it doesn't in DT hubs. In 370 there's no labyrinth driver body sealing, so you maybe need driver from 240 or 310. I'm not sure I will go with GDX, as I'm building wheels for racing...
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I've found this video (google translation needed): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zT0xaA81PI4
He talks about almost all models, but doesn't recommend both 240 and 180 due to ratchet failures and only 370 and 310 are options to go or 240 with large outer spline, not threaded. 370 and 310 are also compatible with DT ratchets. Lighter 310 model uses aluminium ratchet ring and he says this ring tends to wear, it doesn't in DT hubs. In 370 there's no labyrinth driver body sealing, so you maybe need driver from 240 or 310. I'm not sure I will go with GDX, as I'm building wheels for racing...
Just order hubs from elite wheels. R12 is the model as far as I remember. People use them with elite wheels and all are happy
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Thx!
Looks like this is yuan M14 hub. Here ale links, please take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub
Goldix is very similar but uses bit different driver body:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003474664645.html
Not sure it it's the same supplier or not for goldix 310, but 310 has driver without labyrinth sealing flange that makes it prone to dirt.
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Thx!
Looks like this is yuan M14 hub. Here ale links, please take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
https://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-m14-mtb-hub-ratchet-system-center-lock-boost-axle-hub
Goldix is very similar but uses bit different driver body:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001960343687.html
Not sure it it's the same supplier or not for goldix 310, but 310 has driver without labyrinth sealing flange that makes it prone to dirt.
Your last link is the same as the first one
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Sorry, right, here's correct one (fixed also original post)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003474664645.html
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Yeah, those hubs look identical.
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Except driver body, 310, 370 and 180 I think use driver with flat surface. To get "proper" driver you need to buy driver from 240.
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Except driver body, 310, 370 and 180 I think use driver with flat surface, to get "proper" driver you need to buy 310 or 370 + driver from 240.
I have the R180 on my MTB. I have done about 200km with it incl a very muddy ride (ruined the BB bearings). I will take the freehub apart to check the state of it in a couple of days.
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I just saw the R180 set for 96 USD tax incl.
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What are the lightest boost hubset that we can order from Aliexpress - is there something under 300g for both?
I am motivated to test something lightweight from Ali :-)
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Hold my beer ;)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004396722331.html <- this is older 240 with Chinese ratchet design, not exp
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006156408222.html <- this is very light, but the driver body almost certainly lacks sealing flange, so you need to buy driver from 240
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Hold my beer ;)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006156408222.html <- this is very light, but the driver body almost certainly lacks sealing flange, so you need to buy driver from 240
There does seem to be a seal in this pic:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S4cc0a22f7e5040afb59378f8bbe59aa4Z.jpg?width=1000&height=1434&hash=2434)
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I was talking about extra flange on the driver, it's visible on the video I've linked above, 14:47.
BUT haven't noticed that this hub hides driver deeper inside body, not sure now how sealing works there.
I think I'll go with M350, simple j-bend model after all...
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I took apart my R180 hub yesterday after about 130km of which 85 in very bad weather and mud. Everything looks OK. The tips of the ratchets look a little bit worn, but since they are razor sharp this might be normal.
I packed the ratchet with grease, assembled everything and... the ratchet would no longer engage... I took it apart again, added some oil to the grease and that solved the problem.
The ratchet is now A LOT more quiet.
Edit: after 1 ride it is LOUD again...
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I've now done 400 miles in just under 3 weeks on these. Lots of rain and dirt fromcommuting and riding on the south downs, hubs still loud as hell but no slippage. I guess i'll open them up over christmas when they get to about 1000 miles or sooner if i get any issues. So far, happy :)
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My Goldix 240 SL 60t is skipping bad under load. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804895514428.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.65081802Fw79NU&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I tried purchasing a dt swiss 54t exp upgrade but it is incompatible with the hub. The threaded portion is way larger on the Goldix hub. Anyone have success with trying something different?
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Did you try cleaning the ratchet and using thinner grease/oil?
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My Goldix 240 SL 60t is skipping bad under load. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804895514428.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.59.65081802Fw79NU&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I tried purchasing a dt swiss 54t exp upgrade but it is incompatible with the hub. The threaded portion is way larger on the Goldix hub. Anyone have success with trying something different?
Can't you purchase some ratchets from Goldix store with lower number of teeth?
At least they sell them separately
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuuXcE3
At least going down in teeth number gives more robustness against slipping.
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Can't you purchase some ratchets from Goldix store with lower number of teeth?
At least they sell them separately
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuuXcE3
At least going down in teeth number gives more robustness against slipping.
I messaged Goldix and they told me this hub is only available with 60t. I'm done with it. I'm cutting my losses and putting on a DT 350. Hopefully it's similar enough to not need new spokes.
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I messaged Goldix and they told me this hub is only available with 60t. I'm done with it. I'm cutting my losses and putting on a DT 350. Hopefully it's similar enough to not need new spokes.
:( sorry to hear that. Good luck with the reuse of spokes.
The 60T and 36T replacement set do in fact look very similar in the outer ring structure and additional rings.. ??? Sad that the dimensions are not given.
But even your link to the article tells about optional 36T. This is. Weird?
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Can someone tell me what spokes i need for this rim
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805863224869.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.86b76a46E92BEx&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2031%2C77%21%E2%82%AC%2030%2C06%21%21%21239.08%21226.25%21%402101eff117135512245803360eb854%2112000035490977194%21sh%21HR%21833424489%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
the rims are lb falcon pro 55 with ERD 530mm, i would like to use sapim cx sprint but what length?
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Can someone tell me what spokes i need for this rim
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805863224869.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.86b76a46E92BEx&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2031%2C77%21%E2%82%AC%2030%2C06%21%21%21239.08%21226.25%21%402101eff117135512245803360eb854%2112000035490977194%21sh%21HR%21833424489%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
the rims are lb falcon pro 55 with ERD 530mm, i would like to use sapim cx sprint but what length?
I think you can try ask the aliexpress store actually! Ive done that in the past and they calculated for me and i double checked with an online spoke length calculator
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Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
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Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs. The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole. Anyone know the purpose of that? ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray
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It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray
Ahh ok that makes sense...