Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: GratiotGravel on July 11, 2022, 06:41:12 PM
-
Recently upgraded my primary gravel bike (CruX) to AXS components so I had this perfectly good sram force1 mechanical group just sitting around. Decided to purchase a Lightcarbon “monster” gravel frame with integrated bars. First off, all communications with Wendy at Lightcarbon were detailed, prompt, and informative. Took about 3 weeks from order date to having the frame at my doorstep in Michigan. Built the bike up completely with spare parts around my little bike mechanic area (had to buy bottom bracket and the 700x50c tires) The bike currently has red cannondale stickers on it as I had those laying around my shop and wanted to get an idea of how the red/black theme would look. New custom red Lightcarbon decals are ordered and expected any day.
Have about 400 miles on the bike so far and absolutely love it. Crisp handling, stiff and responsive yet quite compliant on rough and loose/rocky gravel. My CruX is notably faster at similar watts, however, the Lightcarbon would be my choice for a ride lasting longer than 3-3.5 hours. Excited to get the bike on some single track soon.
-
that looks amazing. I have one LC frame with a second on order. once i complete my mountain bike fleet, this is the first frame on order. Cant believe those are 50mm tires in there. so much room!
-
Very nice bike. Any hiccups with the build process?
-
No real hiccups to speak of. Had to run the shift cable and rear brake hose twice, as I didn’t have the headset spacers in place the first time. To my surprise, the cable routing through the frame was actually quite simple. The routing through the handlebars was a bit more difficult but still not bad at all.
I was surprised at the clearance with the 700x50c tires installed as well. Plenty of room for mud clearance. Bike rolls extremely well on them also.
My only complaint (and it’s minor) - the supplied garmin mount does not have the tightest snap in fit for the garmin head unit. It is a bit loose which leads to some unnecessary rattling when on rough gravel. I may try to put a small bead of flexible silicone in the mount to make the head unit fit tighter and hopefully eliminate the rattling.
-
Hi my friend,
Thank you for your support to our LCG071-D carbon gravle frame with integrated handlebar, max tire: 700*53c.
The Gamin mount can fit for three most popular bike computer: Garmin/Bryton/Wahoo.
There are several gaskets in the kit. Check whether your gaskets are used correctly.
Jim Lee from Lightcarbon.
-
Hello
Nice! Like the looks of this frame.
How's it holding up?
-
Zero complaints. Have about 1500 miles on it now - a mix of nicely manicured gravel, chunky gravel, two tracks, single track, and a small amount of pavement. I abuse the bike pretty bad as I use it as my “I don’t care” bike. It handles very well and it is very compliant with the 700x50c tires. I really enjoy riding the bike and actually think it’s more comfortable to ride compared to my CruX. Now, the crux is around 1.5mph faster at the same watts/HR so the comfort comes at a bit of a speed decrease.
-
I also decided to pick this frame after seeing posts here and videos on Youtube.
I just finished painting it yesterday and hopefully get it built up tomorrow after the clearcoat cures some more. Excited to ride it! First time buying and building with a Chinese frame.
-
I also decided to pick this frame after seeing posts here and videos on Youtube.
I just finished painting it yesterday and hopefully get it built up tomorrow after the clearcoat cures some more. Excited to ride it! First time buying and building with a Chinese frame.
Really nice color!! spray paint?
-
Yeah, looks really nice :)
-
I also decided to pick this frame after seeing posts here and videos on Youtube.
I just finished painting it yesterday and hopefully get it built up tomorrow after the clearcoat cures some more. Excited to ride it! First time buying and building with a Chinese frame.
I also just placed my order for this frameset. Beautiful color.
Lets us know how the build goes. I noticed that on the youtube videos, some people had problems with the seatpost clamp being difficult to install. Did you have the same problem?
-
Really nice color!! spray paint?
Thanks! I used an automotive clear coat mixed with pearlescent pigment powder.
-
I also just placed my order for this frameset. Beautiful color.
Lets us know how the build goes. I noticed that on the youtube videos, some people had problems with the seatpost clamp being difficult to install. Did you have the same problem?
Thanks. The build went okay. I'll get some proper pictures soon. The handlebar cable routing was pretty challenging, I have an issue that the cable/brake hose pulls the steering slightly to the right. And yes, the seatpost clamp is a bit finicky, you have to position it just right before you insert the seatpost, but once the seatpost is in it's not a problem. I
-
For anyone looking for more reviews of this bike I can +1 on the quality of this frame.
It's not a race oriented ride (probably due to the longer chain stays) but it sure is comfortable, stable and good for longer rides.
Very well finished internally I shall add, size 56 weighs as follows:
Frame: 1010g
Fork: 436g (cut)
Seatpost: 184g
Handlebars: 424g (100x40)
GPS mount: 24g (wahoo)
Thru axles: 85g
-
For anyone looking for more reviews of this bike I can +1 on the quality of this frame.
It's not a race oriented ride (probably due to the longer chain stays) but it sure is comfortable, stable and good for longer rides.
Can I prod you and @GratiotGravel on this? I've spent a good amount of time over the last week in search of a CX frame, researching the geometry of pretty much every chiner gravel frame...this one comes the closest to the CruX in terms of geometry, and has one of the lowest weights for a gravel frame you can find as well. Despite the fact that the evidence is clear--with 2 independent reviewers confirming--that this is a bike that "feels slow", I have a hard time wrapping my mind around how that can be.
@GratiotGravel, are you running the same tires between bikes when making your speed/watts comparison?
Are both of you running big tires, generally speaking?
-
this one comes the closest to the CruX in terms of geometry, and has one of the lowest weights for a gravel frame you can find as well. Despite the fact that the evidence is clear--with 2 independent reviewers confirming--that this is a bike that "feels slow", I have a hard time wrapping my mind around how that can be.
@GratiotGravel, are you running the same tires between bikes when making your speed/watts comparison?
Are both of you running big tires, generally speaking?
About the geometry (comparing Crux 56 vs LCG071 55), I'd say they are quite different if you're talking about the latest edition of the Crux. Save from the (probably) more complicated carbon layup the Crux also has 1.) 5mm shorter chain stays compared to the LCG071 which would contribute a lot to the perceived "sluggishness" of said bike in my experience. 2.) the Crux has 11mm longer reach which comes closer to a road bike which alters your position to become more aero and aggressive as well as giving your legs some more leverage. 3.) 20,6mm lower stack which could contribute to it feeling a bit more nimble out of saddle.
So summing it all up I think there are quite a few logical reasons for them being quite different bikes. And about the tire size I run the Vittoria Terreno Dry 38/40c tyres on all gravel bikes I test with a set of light Farsport wheels.
I'd look for a gravel bike with as short chain stays as possible where you can run your tires of choice combined with a rather long reach and fairly low stack. The Twitter Gravel V3 has really good geo but unfortunately does look a bit messy inside so can't vouch for the quality, runs great though, very responsive and fun ride. I haven't yet tried the Airwolf YFR068 but that looks quite interesting too (same chain stay length as the Open UP which has a really responsive rear albeit tends to loose grip a bit for various reasons).
Hope that's helpful :)
-
Hi All, the frame finally arrived last week, and was able to build the bike. I have to say I'm really happy with how the build turned out and with the quality of the frameset and paint. So far I've only ridden the bike for about ~130km so I still need more time to do a full report on the ride quality, but so far it feels really comfortable and reactive.
(http://)
Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y1ccmyU1jPiZjY6cA (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y1ccmyU1jPiZjY6cA)
Build Specs:
Frame size 52cm: 1110g
Fork w/ axle: 531g
Seatpost: 183.5g
Stem 120cm: 160g
Handlebar 38cm (HBR05): 250g
Other bike components:
Wheels - FarSports Gravel FS30/30GH DT350: 1395g
Rotors - Sram Centerline 160mm front and rear
Tires - Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 700x42
Groupset: Sram Force 1x (11spd)
Casset: Shimano DEORE XT 11-Speed (11-42)
Chain: YBN 11spd (Waxed)
Bottom bracket: BBinfinate BB86 M30
Crankset: Praxis Zayante Carbon-S 172.5
Power meter: Sigeyi Axo
Chainring: Zrace 1x 42t
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR Boost 143mm
Computer mount: Corki Cycles adjustable Stem mount
Pedals: Shimano XT SPD
Bottle cages: Bontrager Bat Cage
Full Build weight as pictured: 8.565kg
-
very nice bike and colors :D
I'm a newbie checking out what frame to go for.
this frame is quite low stack even in 54 size is it not?
so, quite aggressive like a race oriented gravel bike?
-
very nice bike and colors :D
I'm a newbie checking out what frame to go for.
this frame is quite low stack even in 54 size is it not?
so, quite aggressive like a race oriented gravel bike?
size 54cm the stack is 598.6mm, the aero road bike in size 54cm, the stack is about 536-545mm.
-
wait it's size 55 ? no 54 size this bike..
ok so stack considerably higher than pure race bike.
I find it strange they recommend size 550 for height low as 174, when stand over in this size is 83.3cm.
maybe someone can comment on sizing.
-
wait it's size 55 ? no 54 size this bike..
ok so stack considerably higher than pure race bike.
I find it strange they recommend size 550 for height low as 174, when stand over in this size is 83.3cm.
maybe someone can comment on sizing.
Yes the sizing seems a little odd. I am myself 187cm with 88 inseam and 55 is the size I would ne choosing. 575mm top tube is sweetspot for me on gravel. Can't imagine riding almost 600 top tube with the bigger size reccomend for my height
-
I normally ride a 56, recently ordered a 55cm of this frame...let's see how it pans out. When I overlay it with a 56cm specialized crux on bikeinsights, the front triangles match up reasonably well, the lightcarbon may even be slightly longer. Very curious to see what I unpack when it gets here!
-
Hi All, the frame finally arrived last week, and was able to build the bike. I have to say I'm really happy with how the build turned out and with the quality of the frameset and paint. So far I've only ridden the bike for about ~130km so I still need more time to do a full report on the ride quality, but so far it feels really comfortable and reactive.
(http://)
Photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y1ccmyU1jPiZjY6cA (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y1ccmyU1jPiZjY6cA)
Build Specs:
Frame size 52cm: 1110g
Fork w/ axle: 531g
Seatpost: 183.5g
Stem 120cm: 160g
Handlebar 38cm (HBR05): 250g
Other bike components:
Wheels - FarSports Gravel FS30/30GH DT350: 1395g
Rotors - Sram Centerline 160mm front and rear
Tires - Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 700x42
Groupset: Sram Force 1x (11spd)
Casset: Shimano DEORE XT 11-Speed (11-42)
Chain: YBN 11spd (Waxed)
Bottom bracket: BBinfinate BB86 M30
Crankset: Praxis Zayante Carbon-S 172.5
Power meter: Sigeyi Axo
Chainring: Zrace 1x 42t
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR Boost 143mm
Computer mount: Corki Cycles adjustable Stem mount
Pedals: Shimano XT SPD
Bottle cages: Bontrager Bat Cage
Full Build weight as pictured: 8.565kg
Nice bike!
I'm considering this frame and have a few questions if you dont mind
what height are you?
What is the frame color - light grey?
what did you use to plug the frame bosses?
cheers
Jonny
-
Hi! Can anyone comment on how long it took from ordering to the frame was shipped? Been two weeks and no shipping info.
-
Hi! Can anyone comment on how long it took from ordering to the frame was shipped? Been two weeks and no shipping info.
47 days for me from payment to tracking #, and then a week shipping to doorstep
-
Alright so I'm going to update everyone on my build so far:
As I noted in my last comment, shipping was not quick. Initially I had been quoted 15 days to shipping. The next 2 times I had asked for updates, Wendy said the frame would ship "by the end of next week", which was a lie on both occasions. Lesson learned, if you care about the lead time, ask for a quoted lead time BEFORE you pay. I had also ordered the frame with no rivets, but was told I would have to wait ANOTHER week for that one, but I could choose to take the riveted frame immediately, so I went for that. Not ideal but I'll live
Options chosen: 55cm frame, 100mm integrated stem, SP03 seatpost, black paint/no custom paint
Weights:
- frame: 1063g
- fork: 499g
- seatpost: 192g
- stem: 153g
Notes:
Frame: tubes look nice, feels very light, but the quality of the bottom bracket is dogshit. I don't know how this frame passed Hambini's BB-weenie test, because my frame's BB is terrible. HUGE deposit of resin on one of the cups that I had to file down. There's a big gouge/void in the other cup. Internal diameter was something like 40.3-40.8mm in diameter, when it should be a bit closer to 41. I've had to file down the void, and hit the cups with some sandpaper to clean up the surface. I'm using a token ninja thread-together BB, evidently the cups are not aligned because the crank has been binding like crazy to install, and does not spin freely. I'm hoping that most of it is just binding between the bottom bracket bearings and the crank spindle, but I might have to resort to a BBinfinite if the situation does not improve with some use.
Fork: Chunky and solid. I mean, it weighs half as much as the frame. Thru-axle threads were crusty and bind-ey. As on many budget forks, inside of the steerer is fiberglass.
Seatpost: The tube is very thick and chunky. Easily could be 50g lighter. Painted with opaque gloss black paint. Internal profile is slightly oval. I like the seat binding clamps. This post definitely won't fail on you! Definitely a part I look to upgrade soon.
Stem: Awful awful awful. Stem face bolts and threads are not aligned well so it binds when screwing. Internal diameter of handlebar clamp is slightly smaller than spec so it slightly crushes the handlebar (I may have damaged my handlebar, oh well). Heavy. Why did this need to be carbon?
Hardware & assembly: Stem spacers are split, good. Seatpost clamp face is machined to literally appear like a device for filing/grinding things. Pretty okay for post-security, but this will LITERALLY shred the paint/material off of your seatpost where/near you clamp it. Headset bearings are okay, fitment is spot-on, no notes there, good-job lightcarbon. Everything else is bog-standard solid & cheap parts. Steerer tube compression bung and topcap compressor are heavy steel parts. For assembly, I built up with SRAM Force AXS etap, so very easy to just route the brake hoses, especially since I didn't have an integrated bar. No surprises there, I used a magnetic routing toolkit to help me out.
So, overall verdict? I guess for $660, it's fine. I kind of have regrets about getting this bike instead of a used bike, but that's on me. I've spent so much on this bike it's not really competitive with used bike prices anymore, which is really what motivated my road bike build in the first place. As for the quality--I have questions. This frame has ended up in the workshops of several youtubers lately, who have sung its praises--and my experience definitely does not line up. Is this "Wendy's revenge" for me insistently bugging them about getting my frame shipped? Or is some funny business afoot--did lightcarbon decide to let QC slip with the new popularity of this frame? Who knows.
Anways, wish me luck as I finish this build out and attempt a season of cyclocross on it.
-
Hi! Can anyone comment on how long it took from ordering to the frame was shipped? Been two weeks and no shipping info.
This is the answer I got when asking on the 22. September. Note mine is with custom paint
Frame LCG071-D 55cm production are already finished.
Now waiting for the color painting.
Estimate lead time of frame is the first week after we come back from our National holidy (September 29th-October 6th)
Sorry for keeping you waiting and beg your more patience.
Anyway,we’ll do our best to deliver ASAP.
-
Alright so I'm going to update everyone on my build so far:
As I noted in my last comment, shipping was not quick. Initially I had been quoted 15 days to shipping. The next 2 times I had asked for updates, Wendy said the frame would ship "by the end of next week", which was a lie on both occasions. Lesson learned, if you care about the lead time, ask for a quoted lead time BEFORE you pay. I had also ordered the frame with no rivets, but was told I would have to wait ANOTHER week for that one, but I could choose to take the riveted frame immediately, so I went for that. Not ideal but I'll live
Options chosen: 55cm frame, 100mm integrated stem, SP03 seatpost, black paint/no custom paint
Weights:
- frame: 1063g
- fork: 499g
- seatpost: 192g
- stem: 153g
Notes:
Frame: tubes look nice, feels very light, but the quality of the bottom bracket is dogshit. I don't know how this frame passed Hambini's BB-weenie test, because my frame's BB is terrible. HUGE deposit of resin on one of the cups that I had to file down. There's a big gouge/void in the other cup. Internal diameter was something like 40.3-40.8mm in diameter, when it should be a bit closer to 41. I've had to file down the void, and hit the cups with some sandpaper to clean up the surface. I'm using a token ninja thread-together BB, evidently the cups are not aligned because the crank has been binding like crazy to install, and does not spin freely. I'm hoping that most of it is just binding between the bottom bracket bearings and the crank spindle, but I might have to resort to a BBinfinite if the situation does not improve with some use.
Fork: Chunky and solid. I mean, it weighs half as much as the frame. Thru-axle threads were crusty and bind-ey. As on many budget forks, inside of the steerer is fiberglass.
Seatpost: The tube is very thick and chunky. Easily could be 50g lighter. Painted with opaque gloss black paint. Internal profile is slightly oval. I like the seat binding clamps. This post definitely won't fail on you! Definitely a part I look to upgrade soon.
Stem: Awful awful awful. Stem face bolts and threads are not aligned well so it binds when screwing. Internal diameter of handlebar clamp is slightly smaller than spec so it slightly crushes the handlebar (I may have damaged my handlebar, oh well). Heavy. Why did this need to be carbon?
Hardware & assembly: Stem spacers are split, good. Seatpost clamp face is machined to literally appear like a device for filing/grinding things. Pretty okay for post-security, but this will LITERALLY shred the paint/material off of your seatpost where/near you clamp it. Headset bearings are okay, fitment is spot-on, no notes there, good-job lightcarbon. Everything else is bog-standard solid & cheap parts. Steerer tube compression bung and topcap compressor are heavy steel parts. For assembly, I built up with SRAM Force AXS etap, so very easy to just route the brake hoses, especially since I didn't have an integrated bar. No surprises there, I used a magnetic routing toolkit to help me out.
So, overall verdict? I guess for $660, it's fine. I kind of have regrets about getting this bike instead of a used bike, but that's on me. I've spent so much on this bike it's not really competitive with used bike prices anymore, which is really what motivated my road bike build in the first place. As for the quality--I have questions. This frame has ended up in the workshops of several youtubers lately, who have sung its praises--and my experience definitely does not line up. Is this "Wendy's revenge" for me insistently bugging them about getting my frame shipped? Or is some funny business afoot--did lightcarbon decide to let QC slip with the new popularity of this frame? Who knows.
Anways, wish me luck as I finish this build out and attempt a season of cyclocross on it.
Wow. I would just take a deep breath and relax I bit.
Lets put your frame into what you can truly buy for that 660 bucks. In my world you just bought a surly with a free headset stem and seatpost. Now look at your purchase. Would you rather a surly? Not me.
Lets go higher end well than a thousand bucks cheaper that a steel Rodeo Labs or Fairlight still with the free stuff.
The other thing when you had the stuff out crapping on the holes not being perfect did you take the time to measure the BB? Do you have a problem? And with what exactly? With a 40.8 you do realize that is less than two human hairs from 41. A human hair is .17
Everyone likes to crap on the frame without measuring the bb. The other thing press fit works when ALL things measure right not just the frame. Some brands of bb have the same problems making circles. The thread together or all the others are designed to fix problems. You only need them when you do have a problem.
I personally would just install a bb that measures what it should and ride it. You should order from a brand that offers t47 next time odds are that is what everyone is going to.
Nice bike certainly nicer than my old surly trucker.
-
Did you use that rubber mallet to install the bottom bracket?
-
Wow. I would just take a deep breath and relax I bit.
Lets put your frame into what you can truly buy for that 660 bucks. In my world you just bought a surly with a free headset stem and seatpost. Now look at your purchase. Would you rather a surly? Not me.
Lets go higher end well than a thousand bucks cheaper that a steel Rodeo Labs or Fairlight still with the free stuff.
The other thing when you had the stuff out crapping on the holes not being perfect did you take the time to measure the BB? Do you have a problem? And with what exactly? With a 40.8 you do realize that is less than two human hairs from 41. A human hair is .17
Everyone likes to crap on the frame without measuring the bb. The other thing press fit works when ALL things measure right not just the frame. Some brands of bb have the same problems making circles. The thread together or all the others are designed to fix problems. You only need them when you do have a problem.
I personally would just install a bb that measures what it should and ride it. You should order from a brand that offers t47 next time odds are that is what everyone is going to.
Nice bike certainly nicer than my old surly trucker.
Yeah I agree for $660 it’s quite good. All the complaints I have, have solutions. I really just present my review of the build to provide some contrast to the overly-rosy reviews from the YouTubers. I chose this frame because I was led to believe this frame was exceptionally high quality despite the price. And while it’s not bad, (especially compared to some of the competition) it has significant flaws I hadn’t expected that need attention in the workshop.
I’ve taken the bike out for its first ride, it’s a fine bike! Crank is no longer binding so much, hopefully I start feeling better about it as a whole.
Oh and for the record, the mallet was not used on my bearings, I just desperately need to clean up in my workshop ;D
-
Oh and for the record, the mallet was not used on my bearings, I just desperately need to clean up in my workshop ;D
You and me both!
-
Regarding the press-fit BB: Park Tool makes a really expensive and hard-to-get reaming tool for BB86. It's one of the few tools I can't justify buying myself, but if I ever buy a frame with BB86 (which unfortunately is most Light Bicycle and Yishun frames), I'd definitely take it to a bike shop that has that tool. Same goes for facing the disc brake mounts.
-
Regarding the press-fit BB: Park Tool makes a really expensive and hard-to-get reaming tool for BB86. It's one of the few tools I can't justify buying myself, but if I ever buy a frame with BB86 (which unfortunately is most Light Bicycle and Yishun frames), I'd definitely take it to a bike shop that has that tool. Same goes for facing the disc brake mounts.
I hear you on owning real shop tools. Too expensive for one use.
The amazing thing is way back in the day when I worked at a shop every build got faced and chased and I don't understand when that went away. Every seat tube got reamed along with headset before cups got pressed in. I don't understand why it is expected really it is part of build prep.
Even stupid expensive frames needed it and aluminum alway needed it to just get round again. Then again this was threaded days before the stupid bb explosion.
Yeah if I was worried about the bb I would certainly be bringing it to a shop.
On the plus side looks like t47 is gonna take over hopefully
-
Yeah I agree for $660 it’s quite good. All the complaints I have, have solutions. I really just present my review of the build to provide some contrast to the overly-rosy reviews from the YouTubers. I chose this frame because I was led to believe this frame was exceptionally high quality despite the price. And while it’s not bad, (especially compared to some of the competition) it has significant flaws I hadn’t expected that need attention in the workshop.
I’ve taken the bike out for its first ride, it’s a fine bike! Crank is no longer binding so much, hopefully I start feeling better about it as a whole.
Oh and for the record, the mallet was not used on my bearings, I just desperately need to clean up in my workshop ;D
Have you had more time to ride the bike? Curious how it worked for cyclocross since I was thinking the same thing.
-
I’ve been riding it, mostly on singletrack, but I’ve also gotten a bit of grass in there. Haven’t raced it yet, that’s coming this weekend.
For the most part, I have a hard time distinguishing it from my 2016 Crux—the geometry is really close to that bike, bar the longer chainstays. On paper the stack is quite different, but if you overlay the models, the front end is actually very similar. So take anything I say with a grain of salt, it probably mostly in my head/confirmation bias of what I’m expecting it to feel.
I think the handling feels like my Crux, but with a little “edge” taken off the handling characteristic—at times it feels more stable in corners. The handling also just feels stiffer and more predictable, maybe because of the thru-axles/142 rear spacing. I think mainly the effect of the long chainstays is it makes this bike feel less prone to snap-oversteer/has a slightly more progressive feel to the rear end grip, but also a bit less peak grip at the rear. I do feel i can push this bike harder/closer to the grip limit through corners on flat ground. Does this bike feel less nimble/agile? Sure, slightly. But I also think there’s a worthwhile tradeoff—this bike holds its line better and more confidently than a similar bike with shorter chainstays. I also feel like this bike corners better under trail-braking, where dabbing a bit more rear brake will help you swing the front-end into corners.
I do feel the front-center isn’t as long as I want. The steering starts to feel a little vague/susceptible to redirection, and requires a lot of commitment when going downhill. In understeer-heavy situations, like when turning-in at high speed, on the brakes, into a downhill, tight corner, it feels hard to predict if the front will bite. Once you’re bitten-in the front end traction feels good, it just feels a little hard to predict the edge of traction on turn-in. My old crux also had a bit of this, which makes sense—both bikes’ horizontal F-C is within 2mm of each other.
I don’t really get the sense that it is slower, more sluggish, or less stiff than my old crux, like some others have commented. Interestingly, it also doesn’t feel particularly more plush to me. But that’s comparing to an older Crux with QRs. Again, I acknowledge subjectivity here, I think I was expecting noodle-y and plush, and what I felt didn’t line up with that expectation.
So—does this make a serviceable amateur cross bike? Absolutely! It does not feel like a yacht, or anything radically different than a typical cross bike. Maybe if you’re a super-enthusiast/semi-pro or have very traditional (or ultra-progressive) values about CX geometry, this bike will bother you—but you’d know if you fall into those categories just by looking at the geo chart.
How about the gestalt? How does this bike perform according to its goals of being not just a cross bike? I think if you want to have one all-road machine—a bike that can do gravel, CX, bike packing, and even road riding, this is a solid pick. It’s light, has nods to aero, can do 1x or 2x, has a wide range of tire clearances, and the geometry is well-suited to a broad range of tire sizes. Albeit, the geometry is quite behind the times compared to most modern gravel race bikes.
How do I feel about my choice? Something I also regret not considering when ordering this bike is that it’s pretty standard these days to ride 38mm tires if you’re not complying with UCI rules. With that in mind, I probably would have gone for the airwolf YFR68—my only hang up with that bike was the BB height, but it wouldn’t be a concern with larger tires. Thankfully, I have the rest of my life to buy more bikes.
-
@dsveddy can we get some pictures lf the bike? Curious how it looks in your size and configuration
-
I’ve been riding it, mostly on singletrack, but I’ve also gotten a bit of grass in there. Haven’t raced it yet, that’s coming this weekend.
For the most part, I have a hard time distinguishing it from my 2016 Crux—the geometry is really close to that bike, bar the longer chainstays. On paper the stack is quite different, but if you overlay the models, the front end is actually very similar. So take anything I say with a grain of salt, it probably mostly in my head/confirmation bias of what I’m expecting it to feel.
I think the handling feels like my Crux, but with a little “edge” taken off the handling characteristic—at times it feels more stable in corners. The handling also just feels stiffer and more predictable, maybe because of the thru-axles/142 rear spacing. I think mainly the effect of the long chainstays is it makes this bike feel less prone to snap-oversteer/has a slightly more progressive feel to the rear end grip, but also a bit less peak grip at the rear. I do feel i can push this bike harder/closer to the grip limit through corners on flat ground. Does this bike feel less nimble/agile? Sure, slightly. But I also think there’s a worthwhile tradeoff—this bike holds its line better and more confidently than a similar bike with shorter chainstays. I also feel like this bike corners better under trail-braking, where dabbing a bit more rear brake will help you swing the front-end into corners.
I do feel the front-center isn’t as long as I want. The steering starts to feel a little vague/susceptible to redirection, and requires a lot of commitment when going downhill. In understeer-heavy situations, like when turning-in at high speed, on the brakes, into a downhill, tight corner, it feels hard to predict if the front will bite. Once you’re bitten-in the front end traction feels good, it just feels a little hard to predict the edge of traction on turn-in. My old crux also had a bit of this, which makes sense—both bikes’ horizontal F-C is within 2mm of each other.
I don’t really get the sense that it is slower, more sluggish, or less stiff than my old crux, like some others have commented. Interestingly, it also doesn’t feel particularly more plush to me. But that’s comparing to an older Crux with QRs. Again, I acknowledge subjectivity here, I think I was expecting noodle-y and plush, and what I felt didn’t line up with that expectation.
So—does this make a serviceable amateur cross bike? Absolutely! It does not feel like a yacht, or anything radically different than a typical cross bike. Maybe if you’re a super-enthusiast/semi-pro or have very traditional (or ultra-progressive) values about CX geometry, this bike will bother you—but you’d know if you fall into those categories just by looking at the geo chart.
How about the gestalt? How does this bike perform according to its goals of being not just a cross bike? I think if you want to have one all-road machine—a bike that can do gravel, CX, bike packing, and even road riding, this is a solid pick. It’s light, has nods to aero, can do 1x or 2x, has a wide range of tire clearances, and the geometry is well-suited to a broad range of tire sizes. Albeit, the geometry is quite behind the times compared to most modern gravel race bikes.
How do I feel about my choice? Something I also regret not considering when ordering this bike is that it’s pretty standard these days to ride 38mm tires if you’re not complying with UCI rules. With that in mind, I probably would have gone for the airwolf YFR68—my only hang up with that bike was the BB height, but it wouldn’t be a concern with larger tires. Thankfully, I have the rest of my life to buy more bikes.
Thanks very much for the insight! Much appreciated.
-
Here's a photos of my build + an action shot!
I'm currently running Pararacer EXT 38mm on the rear and Donnelly PDX 33mm (effectively 35) on the front. I've got another Panaracer ext tire coming in the mail for the front ;D
What can I say? This bike has been a fast cross bike. This bike hasn't stopped me from setting some new Strava PRs up the doubletrack climb and the toughest switchback descent at my local stomping grounds. It also hasn't stopped me from modestly outperforming my most recent crossresults-predicted race result this weekend, despite being way-down on fitness according to Garmin. I'm guessing the move to sightly wider rubber has helped, but honestly I'm riding this thing faster at my local mountain bike track than I am riding my new Cannondale Scalpel. So much to say--It's not a completely new or mind-blowing experience, but I feel very confident on this bike, it's very light, and it effectively lets me put down power. Despite my initial misgivings, I have to say I am very happy about the bike so far!
-
Here's a photos of my build + an action shot!
I'm currently running Pararacer EXT 38mm on the rear and Donnelly PDX 33mm (effectively 35) on the front. I've got another Panaracer ext tire coming in the mail for the front ;D
What can I say? This bike has been a fast cross bike. This bike hasn't stopped me from setting some new Strava PRs up the doubletrack climb and the toughest switchback descent at my local stomping grounds. It also hasn't stopped me from modestly outperforming my most recent crossresults-predicted race result this weekend, despite being way-down on fitness according to Garmin. I'm guessing the move to sightly wider rubber has helped, but honestly I'm riding this thing faster at my local mountain bike track than I am riding my new Cannondale Scalpel. So much to say--It's not a completely new or mind-blowing experience, but I feel very confident on this bike, it's very light, and it effectively lets me put down power. Despite my initial misgivings, I have to say I am very happy about the bike so far!
Well done!
Looking forward to more photos and ride sharing from you!
-
Alright so I'm going to update everyone on my build so far:
As I noted in my last comment, shipping was not quick. Initially I had been quoted 15 days to shipping. The next 2 times I had asked for updates, Wendy said the frame would ship "by the end of next week", which was a lie on both occasions. Lesson learned, if you care about the lead time, ask for a quoted lead time BEFORE you pay. I had also ordered the frame with no rivets, but was told I would have to wait ANOTHER week for that one, but I could choose to take the riveted frame immediately, so I went for that. Not ideal but I'll live
Options chosen: 55cm frame, 100mm integrated stem, SP03 seatpost, black paint/no custom paint
Weights:
- frame: 1063g
- fork: 499g
- seatpost: 192g
- stem: 153g
Notes:
Frame: tubes look nice, feels very light, but the quality of the bottom bracket is dogshit. I don't know how this frame passed Hambini's BB-weenie test, because my frame's BB is terrible. HUGE deposit of resin on one of the cups that I had to file down. There's a big gouge/void in the other cup. Internal diameter was something like 40.3-40.8mm in diameter, when it should be a bit closer to 41. I've had to file down the void, and hit the cups with some sandpaper to clean up the surface. I'm using a token ninja thread-together BB, evidently the cups are not aligned because the crank has been binding like crazy to install, and does not spin freely. I'm hoping that most of it is just binding between the bottom bracket bearings and the crank spindle, but I might have to resort to a BBinfinite if the situation does not improve with some use.
Fork: Chunky and solid. I mean, it weighs half as much as the frame. Thru-axle threads were crusty and bind-ey. As on many budget forks, inside of the steerer is fiberglass.
Seatpost: The tube is very thick and chunky. Easily could be 50g lighter. Painted with opaque gloss black paint. Internal profile is slightly oval. I like the seat binding clamps. This post definitely won't fail on you! Definitely a part I look to upgrade soon.
Stem: Awful awful awful. Stem face bolts and threads are not aligned well so it binds when screwing. Internal diameter of handlebar clamp is slightly smaller than spec so it slightly crushes the handlebar (I may have damaged my handlebar, oh well). Heavy. Why did this need to be carbon?
Hardware & assembly: Stem spacers are split, good. Seatpost clamp face is machined to literally appear like a device for filing/grinding things. Pretty okay for post-security, but this will LITERALLY shred the paint/material off of your seatpost where/near you clamp it. Headset bearings are okay, fitment is spot-on, no notes there, good-job lightcarbon. Everything else is bog-standard solid & cheap parts. Steerer tube compression bung and topcap compressor are heavy steel parts. For assembly, I built up with SRAM Force AXS etap, so very easy to just route the brake hoses, especially since I didn't have an integrated bar. No surprises there, I used a magnetic routing toolkit to help me out.
So, overall verdict? I guess for $660, it's fine. I kind of have regrets about getting this bike instead of a used bike, but that's on me. I've spent so much on this bike it's not really competitive with used bike prices anymore, which is really what motivated my road bike build in the first place. As for the quality--I have questions. This frame has ended up in the workshops of several youtubers lately, who have sung its praises--and my experience definitely does not line up. Is this "Wendy's revenge" for me insistently bugging them about getting my frame shipped? Or is some funny business afoot--did lightcarbon decide to let QC slip with the new popularity of this frame? Who knows.
Anways, wish me luck as I finish this build out and attempt a season of cyclocross on it.
Damn that sounds like dogshit. Sorry to hear. I just ordered a Yishun frame and hoping it doesn't turn out crap like this.
-
Gentlemen, could anyone measure the front/rear clearance with your tyres, please? I wonder how thick I can go. And if there is a room for fenders.
-
Gentlemen, could anyone measure the front/rear clearance with your tyres, please? I wonder how thick I can go. And if there is a room for fenders.
I measure about 65mm between fork and 64mm between stays, so 50mm-ish is probably max (IE 47mm).
-
Gentlemen, could anyone measure the front/rear clearance with your tyres, please? I wonder how thick I can go. And if there is a room for fenders.
I run 700X50C WTB Tires on 25mm internal width wheels. The tires measure 52.3mm when mounted. I have roughly 2.5mm of clearance on each side. I would not want to go any wider at all.
Recently installed a new bottom bracket and switched out to a praxis works crankset. Also switched the cassette out to an 11-46 as the bike will be spending the next 3 months in Brevard, NC on some gnarly pisgah forest gravel. All of the info for this frame says you need a hangar extender to run a cassette larger than 42, however, mine shifts flawlessly with this 11-46 cassette coupled with a 40T absolute black oval chainring. The derailleur seems to end up in a very odd position when on the 46, but it functions perfectly. Wil have better feedback after riding some 20% grades in NC soon.
I now have around 3000 miles of gravel riding on the bike and have very few complaints. My main complaint is ive had a tough time keeping the headset adjusted properly. It seems to always be either a touch loose or a touch too tight. Much more difficult than any other bike ive ever had to get it just right. Seems to be very little leeway. I also ended up having to put silicone in all of the mounting points on the frame that i do not use (Fender mounts) in order to keep gravel and debris from getting inside the frame while riding. One last thing is that it took a LOT of carbon paste and a slightly higher torque setting to get the seat post to hold when riding rough gravel.
Attached is a photo of the bike as it sits today.
-
Thought you all would appreciate my new decal job ;D
I've put 35 mm gravelking slicks + a FD and double chainrings on and have been riding it as an all-road bike for spring season while my race bike is on the trainer. This thing is truly comfortable, silent, and serene to ride around on.
I have also really been enjoying using this bike as an all-road bike in the suburbs of Boston. I didn't realize "all road" was not just a gimmick.
I can ride out to areas with trails and pop in and out of the trail systems as I please. My routes can get so much more interesting and varied than they used to be. I can cut through areas, avoid busy roads much more easily than with a road bike. Super fun.
I'll agree with previous posters' points about this bike riding slow. It feels solid when I stand up and sprint but something grinding out at tempo on this bike doesn't feel particularly efficient. I can't tell if it's my tires, breaking in a new chain, if it's that I'm just super out of shape this spring, or if it's all in my head. It's weird because I never felt this way last fall, I even rode it 30 miles across the city on the road in CX guise, and it felt like a rocket.
But for me that doesn't matter right now. I'm just trying to ride spring base miles and enjoy. Maybe as I get stronger I'll change my mind and find that it actually rides faster that I thought.