I'm seeing the Wheeltop EDS TX disc groupset re-listed on AliExpress with shipping. The seller is offering a $48.54 USD discount + the current $50 USD discount code.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806728969400.html

"Planet Cyclery" is going out of business/closing its doors.   (I presume they are another online retailer that didn't manage the past few years very well)

I spent about a 1/2 hour looking at all of their sale prices.  From my perspective, their "sale prices" are still to expensive compared to the deals I get on a regular basis through Aliexpress.

Their sister company Colorado Cyclist is doing the same, and Merlin Cycles in the UK still undercuts both of them on Shimano components.

Colorado Cyclist was great in the 80s to early 2000s with awesome mail order catalogs.

The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.

Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.

"Planet Cyclery" is going out of business/closing its doors.   (I presume they are another online retailer that didn't manage the past few years very well)

I spent about a 1/2 hour looking at all of their sale prices.  From my perspective, their "sale prices" are still to expensive compared to the deals I get on a regular basis through Aliexpress.

I've attached a picture to the post to clearly identify the screw I'm wondering about.

I quickly set my eGR up this weekend and did a good 35mi+ group ride on mostly roads, and all was good. I didn't pay super close attention to how this linkage was set, initially, because it all seemed to work.

After the ride, I was doing some cleanup maintenance to get my crank and chain line better sorted. When I put the chain back on, my chain seemed loose, like the derailleur didn't have enough take-up or the chain was too long. With that, the derailleur was all the way up and contacting my cassette, with the grinding noise just like in Trace Velo's video where his B-screw adjustment failed. That was the first place my mind went, but after pulling it all apart nothing was broken.

What I realized was that when I initially set everything up, that linkage was much further back than it would naturally rest. When that screw (circled in red) is tightened to the torque specified on the screw, the linage doesn't move and the B-screw adjustment doesn't really matter at all. It's like in Trace Velo's video where he uses a lock washer to prevent movement, except I have no lock washer. Simply tightening the screw locks the entire assembly in place. Somehow it had come loose while I was doing that bit of work and that's when I noticed an issue. For now, I simply rotated the linkage back like I had it originally and tightened everything back up to prevent the derailleur from contacting my cassette. Presumably, everything will continue to be fine as long as the screw doesn't work loose again.

My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.