Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: flimay2k9 on March 26, 2019, 04:53:27 PM
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Just received My frame and a wheelset from Lightcarbon, will unpack and take pics later tonight.
I have almost all the parts to start the build and have a few questions as well.
I'll share the progress here as well.
For some strange reason I registered yesterday night and got banned without even posting anything, so I hope that does not happen again.
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Hey flimkay2k9.. that was me that banned you by mistake. I apologize. I've been trying to be proactive with spam prevention on the boards by watching the newly registered accounts and banning them before they get a chance to spam... accidentally banned you. Sorry.
Welcome to the forums and looking forward to following along with your build thread!
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Ok, here's some pictures I took of the frame and wheelset. The frame weight is 2.280g so not too bad.
I do have a few questions on the frame though, should I clear coat or paint for protection?
The other question is, should I disassemble the linkage and check bearings add grease and check for torque? The hardware on the linkage looks pretty cheap, I'd love to get it replaced for better quality parts, but do not know the sizes or where to buy it.
The last time I worked on a bike was over 10 years ago so I'll have a few questions along the way, I just checked my bottom bracket and crank and they fit, I also checked my headset bearing and they fit as well, so I'm happy with that.
(https://i.imgur.com/kNnNbjBh.jpg)
The rear shock mount is quite unusual, not sure I like it.
(https://i.imgur.com/5ErkOiRh.jpg?1)
The surface of the carbon has a lot of marks from the form, but I think this is normal, right?
(https://i.imgur.com/FfI0en4h.jpg)
And the wheelset
(https://i.imgur.com/DJzT0XVh.jpg)
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I wouldn't bother with painting the frame for protection. But I often put helicopter tape on my frames, in spots where I think it'll get cable rub or damage from rocks flicking off the front tyre, or from crashes.
Yeah, definitely check the torque on the pivot bolt. I didn't on my Chiner frame and had them come loose. Dunno about greasing the pivot bearings, but definitely put thread locker on the bolts not grease.
What size frame did you get?
Have you bought the rear shock and hardware (shock bushes) yet? If so, what did you get?
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I disassembled the linkage to check the hardware and found out the hardware is not bad. But the bearing are not very good, one of the bearings is binding a little bit and clicking, I removed one of the seals and there's no grease on the bearings, so I'll add some. I actually tried to pull one of the bearings out and I wasn't able to. No sure what kind of tool I'd need to do that.
Frame is 19" (Large) it does seam small for now, so let's see how this works out.
My next step will be to add some grease to the bearings and bushings and put it all together with the correct torque.
Rear triangle seems to be carbon as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/VOEKh2wh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZMS5KYEh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PmJapO3h.jpg)
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It is normal to have some irregularities in the finish.
These are just carbon sheets glued together with epoxy.
With a just a clear coat over them.
To remove bearings you can buy a bearings extractor.
I use a bolt + some custom elements:
(https://i.imgur.com/uKbKdtC.jpg)
The bolt diameter vary on the bearings to extract.
The washer is cut from a normal circular one.
Long enough to press against the outer cage.
Cut narrow enough, to enter the inner cage.
And is inside.
The black part is a kind of bell(hardest part to find), and is outside.
When tightening the bolt, the washer presses the bearing from the inside, toward the bell.
If no other option is available, you can use a hammer and a flat screw driver or similar.
As long as you hit the bearing gently all around its outer cage, it is generally fine.
But still more dangerous for the carbon around.
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Added grease to the bearings and thread lock to the bolts, it's pretty smooth now, tight fit on everything.
I removed the bearing that was not good by gently tapping with a flat screw driver and a small hammer and the bearing turned out to be fine, I think it was just not sitting right.
Next step is to figure out what size of hardware I need for the rear shock mount.
Installed the BSA bottom bracket, the chain guide and the crank set. All went in pretty well. I like the chain guide and crank protection as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/Nvzi6Mzl.jpg)
I'm not really very happy with how close the chain ring is to the chain stay, looks like a bad design.
(https://i.imgur.com/G6G7bQil.jpg)
Got the tubeless tires mounted, just need to add the sealant. I'll be running 2.4 Maxxis Andent in the front wheel and 2.2 Ikon on the back, I might change that later, I wanted some better cushion and grip in the front. Let's see.
(https://i.imgur.com/QTq48osl.jpg)
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nice build! good idea greasing the bearings, mine were making alot of noise as they were dry. Use clear 3m for frame protection, they do a good job for the price.
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I'm looking forward to seeing your finished build!
I have a 20.5" on the way, it shipped today :)
(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2028.0;attach=3064;image)
The space between your chainring and the chainstay looks just fine, it looks like you could even go with a bigger chainring if you wanted. You wouldn't want them to make the chainstay any thinner otherwise the tube either gets so thin that routing the derailleur cable gets tricky or you compromise tire clearance.
I've pulled the trigger on this Fox Float Factory DPS 165x40mm trunnion shock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2018-FOX-Factory-Float-DPS-Shock-Trunnion-165-x-40-Evol-SV-449-Retail/142976801072
The 40mm shock stroke will give me ~115mm of rear travel, which will play nicely with the Fox Float 34 Factory SC fork I'm running up front with 120mm of travel, perfect for technical XC.
I don't believe you need any hardware for mounting the trunnion side of the shock (54*φ10mm) because the trunnion mount is 54mm wide, but you will need hardware for the other shock end (22.2*φ8mm). For a Fox Shock, I got this 22.19*φ8mm kit: https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1.
I'm also relieved to see rock-solid shock mounting hardware included with your frame. I have been in touch with a previous LCFS937 owner who had his trunnion shock mounting bolt break, allowing the shock to get wedged at an angle which caused an asymmetrical cracking of the linkage and propagated sideways force to the front triangle, cracking it as well on one of the seat tubes. Light Carbon sent him a new frame, and it looks like they have fully addressed this issue with stronger shock mounting hardware.
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Your painted frame looks pretty good. I'm regretting not having it painted, but it's too late for me now, maybe the next one.
My rear sock is a Deluxe RT3 165x42.5mm I got it used for $100 on ebay, I think that will work well. I might upgrade in the future. Got my 3 piece hardware, I actually bought 22x8mm from Amazon, I measured with a caliper and I thought that was the right size, it went together perfectly. I ended up having to buy a new 1/2" bushing and had to buy an extractor/installer for the bushing, it was pretty hard to get that little thing installed, even with the correct tool, it was super tight. But everything looks good now. I hope I have enough space to fill the air on the shock without having to disassemble it from the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZfQMpQMl.jpg)
A close up on the hardware installed, everything got torqued to specs.
(https://i.imgur.com/jGpbkr4l.jpg)
I've been fighting with my tubeless tires for the last 3 days my sidewalls are still leaking some air, I just added some extra sealant and it seems to be getting better, but I can still see some seepage of sealant in a lot of places on the sidewall.
Tomorrow I'll get my headset spacers and I'll be able to cut and install my fork, looking pretty good so far, if I get the wheels to stop leaking air, I'll get them mounted as well and will start to work on the drivetrain.
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I'm starting to feel the stoke, my frame should be arriving today!
Installing the 8mm adapter into the shock bushings is always very tight. I admittedly haven't used the proper tool in the past, but it certainly can't get done by hand. In the past I've used a C-clamp to press the adapter into the bushings (I know better).
Everything should be ready to go on my build, it's all as assembled as it gets right now without the frame so just need to throw it all on.
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Got my frame this morning and built up my bike completely! Was too eager so I called the post office and told them to hold it rather than deliver it and went to pick it up :)
The frame did not disappoint. It is beautiful! I'm super stoked on the original design, split seat tube, linkage tucked in between the seat tube, and the well-thought-out shock mount cavity on the downtube.
My 20.5" frame (heavily painted) weighed 2580g, the axle weighed a respectable 50g.
I built it up completely this afternoon and it stands at 22.3lbs (10.1kg) trailside weight. I still have to bleed the rear brake and put in a longer shifter cable. I went with Fox Float 34 SC 120mm travel and a 165*40mm shock.
Installing the shock was tricky. Light Carbon provided some additional machined steel spacers to put on either side of the shock (not the trunnion side). I bought the 8mm x 22.19mm kit for the shock, I might recommend going a tad narrower (maybe the 8mm x 21.8mm version). My spacer setup barely fit inside the linkage, as in I had to give it a few taps with the rubber mallet to get it lined up with the bolt holes. I'll post some pics of this later so it's clear.
I LOVE the threaded bottom bracket. BSA bottom brackets are the best.
While the paint quality does not disappoint, the painter was a bit rough on the lines. Rather than following the contour of the frame lines, the painter just took straight lines making it look a bit abrupt in places. Yes, my powerpoint rendition of the paint job was not 5-star, but painters at TanTan and Pro-Mance have done much better with these images. LightCarbon also made no bother to check my images, create a custom rendition in their paint program of choice, and send it back to me for approval--they just sent it straight to the painter. But... the orange does match my Fox fork almost perfectly!
Internal routing was quite nicely done, but the ports were a bit interesting design, hard to guide the brake cable through the headtube port.
There will be pics and a first ride review next week :) I may just post on MTBR, but I'll post the link here too.
The seatpost tube is very thick, which is reassuring in a way but also meant I couldn't get my 31.6mm carbon clamp around the tube. It also wasn't too tight, an issue I have had with other frames from other vendors, the seatpost slid comfortably right into the tube and the alloy clamp held it tightly.
By the way, this is a big bike. The long reach is immediately noticeable, I'm curious how it will work for my 6'2" self out on the trail.
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Looking forward to reading!
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Here's a little teaser. Life happened this week so next week I'll have the first impressions review, hopefully.
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Looking forward to reading!
Full review here: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/light-carbon-fs937-downcountry-29er-build-1101497.html
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After travelling for work for some time I finally got all the little parts I needed and finished putting the bike together. I was waiting on my magura shiftmix parts (pretty expensive @ $60) to have a cleaner cockpit, looks pretty good tough. Weight is coming at 27 lbs, not too bad for a bike I did not really tried to save weight.
List of parts:
Lightcarbon LCFS937 frame
Lightcarbon carbon 33mm wheels with DT 350 straight pull hubs
Rockshox Yari 140mm fork
Rockshox Delux RT3 trunnion 42,5 mm travel
Rockshox stealth Reverb 390mm and 125mm drop with X1 remote
Sram 1x12 Eagle GX drivetrain
Magura MT Sport brakes with 180mm rotors
Raceface aeffect 50mm stem
BZA 35mm carbon handlebar 800mm
Canecreek Slamset headset
Maxxis Ikon 2.25 on the back and Ardent 2.4 on the front
Here's a couple of details:
(https://i.imgur.com/lsFCjFOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NjZBiR9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9OSGS9Dl.jpg)
And the bike completed:
(https://i.imgur.com/ofUOAJtl.jpg)
I love how the bike rides and how everything went together really nicely, love that I don't need adapters for 180mm rotors.
But not everything is pretty, after a couple of quick rides around my house on fairly flat terrain I noticed a little crack on the frame, after another quick ride it got worse, so now the bike was deemed unsafe and I'm working with John from Lightcarbon on a warranty claim. He's being pretty responsible so far, so I'll keep you guys posted.
(https://i.imgur.com/IcjBjiOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WRHKoi0l.jpg)
I can actually feel the seat tube wall that goes around the rear shock is pretty thin where it failed, so hopefully this is an isolated issue. The only problem is to wait at least another 3 or 4 weeks to ride the bike, and then reassemble everything.
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But not everything is pretty, after a couple of quick rides around my house on fairly flat terrain I noticed a little crack on the frame, after another quick ride it got worse, so now the bike was deemed unsafe and I'm working with John from Lightcarbon on a warranty claim. He's being pretty responsible so far, so I'll keep you guys posted.
(https://i.imgur.com/IcjBjiOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WRHKoi0l.jpg)
I can actually feel the seat tube wall that goes around the rear shock is pretty thin where it failed, so hopefully this is an isolated issue. The only problem is to wait at least another 3 or 4 weeks to ride the bike, and then reassemble everything.
Thanks for sharing, this is concerning (again). Is all your hardware securely fastened? I torqued all my hardware to specs when I got the frame (it wasn't assembled to max allowed torque) and thought I'd be good to go for a while. I was extremely surprised to find that *several* bolts in the suspension linkage had worked their way loose. I even lost one! I was able to get a steel equivalent at a hardware store for $0.70 and am back riding, but this is also perplexing.
I have about 125 miles of very aggressive singletrack riding on my frame at this point. A lot of top 10s on competitive Strava segments. The bike continues to impress, but if I hadn't caught this hardware getting loose I'm afraid I'd be in the same boat as you.
I've got a time trial on singletrack this Saturday. I'm no dedicated racer, but it's a statewide event and I'd like a shot at a good time, here's hoping the bike delivers!
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Full review here: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/light-carbon-fs937-downcountry-29er-build-1101497.html
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I read your review. Very nice. Question, where did you find the grips? I have found some on AliExpress, but they are not that thick. I really like those as they look more like the ESI Chunky. Can you provide a link?
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Damn what a bummer to hear about your cracked frame flimkay... keep us updated with how the warrant goes, please. This frame is looking like a winner except for that so far.
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Full review here: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/light-carbon-fs937-downcountry-29er-build-1101497.html
I read your review. Very nice. Question, where did you find the grips? I have found some on AliExpress, but they are not that thick. I really like those as they look more like the ESI Chunky. Can you provide a link?
[/quote]
Yeah you are correct, the grips are thinner or thicker depending on who you buy them from. This is exactly what I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pair-Silicone-Anti-slip-Bike-Foam-Grip-MTB-Bike-Handlebar-Grip-Slip-Proof-US/202596507249
It is very hard getting them on the bars. I recommend using a little dish soap and hot water. They will NOT come off though unless you slice them, so buy a few extras.
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It is very hard getting them on the bars. I recommend using a little dish soap and hot water. They will NOT come off though unless you slice them, so buy a few extras.
Thanks for the link, I've ordered two pair( max per user... )
If you have a compressor and a air gun with a thin nozzle, you can start to put the grip on the bar.
Put the nozzle between the bar and the grip and blow.
This will put some air between the bar and the grip for an easy slide.
Sometimes it gets harder.
You may have to plug the bar at the end, I use some tape.
Put the nozzle, and plug with my end the end of the grip.
This makes the grip inflate like a balloon. Very little, but enough for an easy slide too.
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Just use windex. Spray a little inside the grips first then just slide them on. Getting them off is harder as you need to get the windex under the grip somehow. I usually use a couple of bamboo skewers between the grip and the bar to form a little gap then spray it in. Pull out the skewers and then twist the grips off.
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Rubbing alcohol also works well when trying to fit those kind of grips.
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Well so far my bike has evaded the crack issues, I had some issues with the hardware bending so I got Grade 5 bolts from the hardware store and ever since those went in the setup has been creak-free and strong as ever. I still have to keep an eye on one of the trunnion mount bolts as it can work it's way loose after a few long, really demanding rides. As long as these bolts are tight all seems to be ok. I rode this bike very hard, certainly as hard as anyone else on this thread, and again, no issues with cracks.
And, a plug, my build is up for sale. $3000 for the complete build or $1,000 for the frameset with the Fox Factory Trunnion shock. See MTBR for more details or my full review. Making way for the next project.
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Well took me a while to write back, I got banned again for some reason or I can't login, so I'm using a different name.
I've been traveling for work and it took me some time to finally get the bike together and get a chance to go outside and ride the bike. Everything was going fine until last week, after a short ride I got back and inspect the bike and guess what I found:
(https://i.imgur.com/yw5ZKzFl.jpg)
Yes, same place, same type of damage. I'm a heavy rider, 220 lbs and 6'2" so maybe I'm too heavy for the frame, but the fact is that it cracked in the same location and same way. I was beyond frustrated and annoyed, could not even look at the bike for a few days and thought about scrapping it.
Here's the first frame, that took more damage because I rode the bike with the crack to see if it was still usable and the crack spread.
(https://i.imgur.com/3b1NcnIl.jpg)
Now the two side by side:
(https://i.imgur.com/A87ePKhl.jpg)
I have no confidence in riding the bike with this frame again.
I see two options for now, either get another frame and transfer everything and I'd be very limited as I bought all my parts specifically for this frame, or try to repair it.
I'm tempted to go with the second option and try to repair with a much sturdier layup of carbon even if it does not look good in the end. I'll send the pictures and get quotes, but I know this will cost as much as a new front triangle possibly, so I need to be careful with my decision.
Any recommendations?
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Wow, really sorry to hear that the second frame also cracked. So I presume they gave you a new front triangle or did they make you pay for it? I would be going back to them again to see what they have to say about it but this time I would be trying for a full refund.
I would also be going to my bank and having a chat to them. There may be nothing they can do but it had only been 2 months since you got the first frame.
I hope you are able to get something worked out.
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These failures are more or less predictable.
The suspension cannot work if something doesn't flex, when you see the section of the rear triangle you don't imagine this thing to flex a lot so i think there's a lot of stress going in the bearings and in the front triangle.
Moreover in france we have the brand Sunn which had many problems of cracks on their shamann with similar split seat tube design and shock position...
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Well took me a while to write back, I got banned again for some reason or I can't login, so I'm using a different name.
Please do keep us updated.
I've been following this and I'm sure many others have too. I've made an account just to reply here.
I really am liking this frame, and was/am very close to placing an order. This thread has me worried a bit.
I have emailed both light carbon and yishun asking specifically about cracking issues in the seat tube. Neither have replied and its been about 4 days now - I'm hoping they are just taking the time to properly understand the issue and come up with a fix.
fingers crossed its just a matter of adding few layers of carbon to the layup in that area, or just a defect in the 19'' mold.
We will see.
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OK.. so for anyone else out there following this or visiting from the future...
I've decided to bite the bullet and place an order for one of these frames. I know its a risk given that the OP here had a couple frames crack on him... but YOLO.
The geometry is just about what id call perfect (for me) and I love the suspension design.
I'm getting it painted, so it will be at least a month until it arrive I suspect. I also got a wheelset and a set of handlebars from light carbon coming along with it
The build will be running 27.5x2.6 tires, 130mm in the rear, 150mm up front.
It'll be a fun bike. A bike build 100% to have fun. light, flick-able, playful, capable. I hope...
Ill make a thread in the 27.5 forum to document it once it comes in, FYI.
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I bought this frame in 17.5 last thursday, I live in Hong Kong so the frame arrive very quickly at Friday.
I've disassembled all the parts from my old FS-029 (which I rode for 2 yrs), and waiting for a 165x45 fox shock I bought from ebay yesterday. Will build it up immediately once all parts are here.
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Finally built mine, now seating at 25.8 lb, Later may switch to some more trustworthy tyres and sealent, the weight may add up to 27ish.....
I have a problem for the rear linkage axle, its a little but too long, so there is some play even I fully tighten both side.....
also the paint is easier to chip off, compare my previous bike CS-027.
hope an ride this Sunday to test it out.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/dd221/drummercat2001/0/ec8b0e68-a325-429b-acfa-53faa102857f-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/drummercat2001/p/ec8b0e68-a325-429b-acfa-53faa102857f)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/dd221/drummercat2001/0/fcadac69-2268-4e8d-80b8-aa545b13dfcd-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/drummercat2001/p/fcadac69-2268-4e8d-80b8-aa545b13dfcd)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/dd221/drummercat2001/0/2fe5d517-7442-4b6f-905c-1964bdacb924-original.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/drummercat2001/p/2fe5d517-7442-4b6f-905c-1964bdacb924)
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with the rear axle, it looks like you might be able to make it work with a couple washers/shims? Otherwise you might have to grind/sand down the axle a little bit to make it shorter...
Mine is still in paint and probably at least another week or two away from shipping. They charged me 100$ USD for a single colour of paint, so hopefully it dosent chip too easily....
Please come back and give us your thoughts after your ride
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Yes I may need to grind the axle down 2mm......not dare to ride before I fix that problem....
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That's pretty poor if you have to do that. Have you contacted the seller on this?
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I'm pretty sure it's not the first one that has reported this. I don't understand how grinding down the end of the thru axle will make it tighter, surely you need more thread cut on it unless the thru axle doesn't actually come thru the retainer nut?
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I'm pretty sure it's not the first one that has reported this. I don't understand how grinding down the end of the thru axle will make it tighter, surely you need more thread cut on it unless the thru axle doesn't actually come thru the retainer nut?
I could be misunderstanding the system, but it looks like its just a hollow axle that is threaded internally and a hex-key 'bolt' threads into the end. The bolt looks to have a very wide flange (with printed torque specs on it). For it to work properly, the axle would need to be less than the width of the carbon linkage/swingarm, otherwise the flange of the bolt wouldn't be able to compress onto the carbon of the swing arm.
Shortening the axle by a couple mm should do the trick. Looks like they either gave him the wrong axle by mistake, or the axle was somehow machined 2-3 mm out of spec.
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That makes sense. I wasn't thinking of the retaining nut screwing into, or over, the axle. All of my thru bolts are more of a traditional nut bolt set up with the nut being open for the bolt to come through.
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Well, Lightcarbon has finished painting my frame and it should be in the mail now. Here's a a photo of it pre-shipping:
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finally I found 2 nylon washers of internal diameter 15mm, seems the problem is fixed.
however I still not going to ride for a few weeks...... quite bad situation there in Hong Kong......
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Hopfully things improve there soon...
My frame and wheels arrived yesterday. I'm about 1/3 the way through assembly. No photos yet, but here's some initial thoughts:
-Bearings were full of what looked like nice quality grease. (white, thick). However, Some of the seals don't fit quite right - looks like they were taken out and replaced by unskilled labor.
-One bearing wasn't quite seated all the way in. not a huge deal.
- I had no trouble with my suspension hardware. However, the threadlocker they used looks to be very poor quality. I cleaned it all off and replaced it with blue loctite. Also, it wasent torqued to the specs printed on the bolts (12nm).
- The paint job is OK. Not sure I'd pay 100$ USD for it again. I reckon I could have gotten similar results with a careful application of a nice spray paint.
- I really like the internal cable routing on this frame, its very well done.
- There was some gunk in the bottom bracket threads, I had use a pick to get it out in order for the bearing to thread in smoothly.
- overall the quality of the carbon looks excellent. Looking inside the frame where I could it all looks good. I'm happy with it.
- frame appears to be very beefy. Very stiff. Linkages all move smoothly.
- there does appear to be a bit of progressiveness engineered into the suspension via the link. I do believe someone knowledgeable has engineered this frame.
-I also ordered the 810mm carbon 'downhill' bars from lightcarbon, which I've cut down to my preferred 780mm width. I am extremely happy with the bars, they appear to be very well made.
-the carbon wheel set I ordered (27.5 'all mountain' rims with areo spokes and dt 350 hubs) are really, really nice. Trueness, roundness and dish re all superb. Really good. I will report back once I try to seat my Maxxas tires tubless.
So far, so good. Ill report back once I finish the build and have a ride or two.
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...Not sure I'd pay 100$ USD for it again. I reckon I could have gotten similar results with a careful application of a nice spray paint...
By spray paint, do you mean in cans or with a air compressor and gun ?
Did you try to paint a frame already ?
Thank you for the interesting and precise report.
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By spray paint, do you mean in cans or with a air compressor and gun ?
Did you try to paint a frame already ?
Yes, with cans of spray paint. High quality spray paint that is.
No, I had light carbon paint it. However, I have painted many things before, including bike frames. I reckon with a couple cans of high quality primer, base color, and clear coat - and some fine grit sandpaper and a few hours of work - one could achieve as good or better results painting one of these frames than what I got from light carbon.
Don't get me wrong, the finish on the paint job is pretty good. I dont see any flaws anywhere. Its just that paint seems pretty low quality (a bit thin and easy to scratch/chip) and the masking job around bearings and fittings was really not that great.
Ordering the paint job from light carbon cost me $100 USD (thats like nearly 20% of the cost of the frame!) and an extra two weeks lead time. The color choices was actually very limited as well. They only had 2 different blues to choose from, neither were really what I wanted.
Long story short, if i were to do it again, I'd order an unpainted frame and paint it myself in my garage.
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...I reckon with a couple cans of high quality primer, base color, and clear coat - and some fine grit sandpaper and a few hours of work
I though it was more complicated than that, I could document myself and try next time
...a bit thin and easy to scratch/chip...
From my experience, definitely true !
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nah, just build up several light coats of each (primer, color, top/clear), sanding with 1000+ grit in between every other coat or so. Need to do it indoors (out of the wind/dust). Its not that difficult, just time consuming. A bit messy.
The build is pretty much done. Bike looks great, Will put some photos up soon. Haven't ridden it properly yet - need to sort out possible contaminated pads
Couple more tid-bits:
-The shock is a bit of a pain to air up. I have two shock pumps, one of them just barely is able to screw onto the air valve with the shock installed into the frame, the other is not. Shock is a 2019 fox dps evol, 165x45.
-Speaking of airing up the shock, the shock requires a bit more air pressure in this frame than others. Probaby because its a fairly small stroke.
-At the recommendation of Sissypants I got the 21.8mm shock hardware rather that the 22.2mm recommended by lightcarbon. I wish I had just gone with the 22.2mm as recommended by the manufacturer. Feels like there is exactly 0.4mm of play.... However, I may order an even wider one in order to eliminate the spacers provided by the factory. Need to take some measurements Ill update on how I go with this.
-Bottom Bracket. With my 27.5x2.6 maxxis ikons, 150mm fox 36, and full 130mm rear travel, I'm measuring a static BB height of 325mm exactly. That's freakin LOOOOOW. My god its low. Hopefully the smile in the berms make up for the pedal strikes on the way up...... Needless to say, for most people this bike would probably best be built as a 29er. Shame the max width for 29 tires is only 2.3.
-I rode the bike for about 60 seconds up and down my street. did a few obligatory curb hucks. Boosted off the neighbors' tree root. No cracks in the frame yet (whew!). Obviously cant say much yet, but i can already tell the frame is really, reeeally stiff - smooth - quite - solid. Honestly, feels great. Feels like a serious tool.
Will be back with more. Having brake problems atm, suspect contaminated pads/rotors, need to sort that out. Hoping to get onto some trail in a few days.
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Do you mean 325mm not 425mm for bb height? I assume that is to middle of bb?
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Do you mean 325mm not 425mm for bb height? I assume that is to middle of bb?
Yes and yes.
I've edited my previous post.
its 325mm from the floor to the center of the bottom bracket axle.
Very low. I knew it would be from the geo chart. Running a 170mm crank in an attempt to compensate. Anticipating a learning curve on technical climbs...
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It seems to be the new norm and it is the reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one of a couple of frames. Lots of sandstone step-ups around here and I struggle enough as it is without constant pedal strikes.
I've been riding 175mm cranks for ages and don't know how I will go with 170mm, I would be interested in hearing your feedback on the difference.
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Here are some pics of the final build, as promised.
The stoke is high.
Will be a few days before I properly ride it. Took it for a bit of an urban rampage just now, it was fun, and still no cracks yet...
The build:
- frame is a size large. Colour is '300c' with a matte finish
- fox dps factory rear shock 165x45. Got it off ebay brand new - came off an Evil the following. The Evil is also a linkage driven single pivot, so the tune should suit this bike well.
- fox 36 factory, set at 150mm
- Lightcarbon wheelset, with 27.5 x 2.6 maxxis Rekon tires
- Light carbon bars
- Sram NX eagle groupset - 170mm cranks
- Shimano XT m8000 brakes
- DVO garnet dropper. Cant remember if its 125mm or 150mm.
- cane creek hellbender headset
- spank 35mm stem
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A few more photos....
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Bike looks great!
Re 170mm cranks. I put 165's on mine and did not notice one bit of difference other than fewer pedal strikes. There was a study done and linked to on MTBR forum that shows the loss of power is barely measurable. I've also read that shorter cranks are a little better for people with knee issues so there's that as well.
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kduvey, the bike looks great and I hope you never get cracks.
supermoto, did you raise your saddle 10mm when you swapped to 165mm cranks to keep the same leg position at the bottom of the stroke or did you not bother with that? Thanks for the feedback
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I probably raised it but did not measure. I like my knee a little more bent than what is said to be "optimal". I've made a few cockpit adjustments since as well ... raised my bars a little and moved my controls in a bit. Running 780 bars and may trim them down 10 or 20 mm.
Really liking the looks of this bike .. may have to consider an XC build!
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So I’ve managed to get about 5 hours of singletrack riding over the last couple days. Good variety of technical climbs, rocky steep descents, flowy jump lines, and everything in between. Interestingly, the bike garnered a ton of attention at the crowded trail hub I was at. I mean, A LOT. I was snappin necks like I was Pamala Anderson in her prime strutin a skimpy bikini. People on their 15k yetis were swooning over my $600 chiner bike!!
Most importantly: no cracks yet. I rode the thing pretty hard. Did a bunch of drops with the biggest being about 8 feet. A few 4-5 footers to flat. I also cased a very large double quite hard at one point – and both the frame and carbon rims are just fine.
Disclaimer: the ride characteristics are not all down to the frame’s design, but also largely to the build spec. Other builds may feel different. Needless to say, the beefy wide carbon bars and ultra short stem, beefy carbon rims, and fox 36’s on this bike would feel very different than a set of alloy XC wheels, 32s, and some noodlely narrow XC bars hanging off a stem longer than your….
In summary:
I am very happy with the performance. Pretty much rides as expected with the geometry/suspension design/build spec. it’s a VERY stiff bike, in a good way. It’s a fun poppy and playful bike, but not twitchy. Def more on the stable side than twitchy. It was happy to allow me to pick my lines very precisely, yet didn’t complain if I was lazy and wanted to plow through a rockgarden. Climbing was obviously not XC-like, with a hint of pedal bob, but it was actually pretty good. Good enough for me. If I was a western company trying to market this frame, I’d spin it as an everyday fun bike for the average weekend warrior. Something to go put a smile on your face and encourage you to climb back to the top just one more time. A trail bike with a focus on making you feel like a boss on the descents.
Climbing:
It's a single pivot design, so yes, there is a bit of pedal bob. It's not as bad as other single pivots I've ridden though. The climb switch on my fox dps mitigated the bob pretty well. It felt fairly efficient climbing, felt like the energy that I put in was pretty well transferred to forward momentum. All in all the climbs felt similar in efficiency to my previous bike - a santa cruz bronson. The main issue I had was pedal strikes. The bottom bracket is stupidly low, 325mm, mainly because I put 27.5 wheels in a frame meant for 29ers. I did suffer from more pedal strikes than normal, but so far I'm OK with it. I think I’ll be able to adapt. 170mm crank arms, 54 engagement points in the hub, a bash guard, and thin pedals will in part mitigate it - the rest will be up to line selection and technique.
Descending:
Yes, there is a hint of brake jack, and a little pedal feedback. However, you don’t notice these things unless you try to – and ultimately I had more fun on trails I know best than any of my previous bikes. The bike was very balanced - it was smooth and stable yet at the same time I always felt in control. I was able to mindlessly plow over rock gardens, but it still felt easy to point the bike where I wanted - I never had a problem changing lines at will. It was intuitive, very easy, confidence inspiring. The suspension is very supportive and poppy no matter where I was in the travel - a welcome change to the dullness and mushiness of the VPP on my Bronson. I was popping off everything – I felt like I was in one of those mtb films... And OMG… the corning. The low BB and stiffness of the frame made the berms feel like heaven. Felt like I was carving a snowboard. So good. The bike was awesome through the jumps as well. I was clearing quite big doubles easier than I normally do. After a few tweaks to the suspension, the bike popped off lips in a composed and balanced way. I was also pleasantly surprised with the ease of which the bike manuals. It has 444.5mm chain stays, but honestly was no fuss getting the front wheel up. I think with such a long wheelbase it might actually be better having a slightly longer rear end to balance things out.
Anyways, I’ll come back in a few weeks or so and give any updates after more trail time and maybe the new bike love affair is over.
So far, so good.
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Another weekend of hard riding (this time on some more techy/steep unsanctioned trails). Still no cracks. Still really liking the bike.
In other news, it looks like Lightcarbon has changed the name of this frame - I'm guessing this is to recognize the change in carbon layup to the problematic cracking area near the linage?
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Ya I hadn't read this thread before i ordered mine. I guess I know why they changed the model name. The answer I got when I asked about the change was "more stiff more strong" I am 140-45lbs so hopefully I have no probs.
I ordered on the ninth got my invoice on the 12th haven't heard anything since. So I sent them an email today because I will be out of town and need to know when it will ship.
I thought it would be rather quick because I ordered glossy clear.
I also am coming from a vpp bike an Intense Recluse. I did not care for the suspension with a coil or a air shock.
With air it was chattery off the top and then soft if you tried to pump. It did take big hits well though.
With coil it just blew through the travel.
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Ya I hadn't read this thread before i ordered mine. I guess I know why they changed the model name. The answer I got when I asked about the change was "more stiff more strong" I am 140-45lbs so hopefully I have no probs.
I ordered on the ninth got my invoice on the 12th haven't heard anything since. So I sent them an email today because I will be out of town and need to know when it will ship.
I thought it would be rather quick because I ordered glossy clear.
I also am coming from a vpp bike an Intense Recluse. I did not care for the suspension with a coil or a air shock.
With air it was chattery off the top and then soft if you tried to pump. It did take big hits well though.
With coil it just blew through the travel.
Ordering anything Chinese factory direct is a bit like that - confusing communications and uncertainty - especially around timelines. There is always some element of risk involved for sure. Best to do what you have done - keep a line of communication open. Having a good attitude tends to be received well and will be returned with a good attitude as well.
That said, I've personally yet to have a really bad experience and I've dealt quite a bit with Chinese factories getting 'samples (not just with bike frames).
Anyways, this frame is still going really well for me. No cracks. About 30 hours of riding now - all quite hard and gravity focused. I'm a dense 230lber too with a fairly aggressive riding style. a creak has developed somewhere - but I'm not worried about it. I didn't grease a few of the pivot bolts - probably just that.
I'm with you, vpp has always felt horrible to me. Had v1 nomad for a few years which was awful and then a v1 Bronson for a few years. The Bronson was def better, but still had that weird mushiness in the middle of the travel. No support. I hear its getting better though in the most recent models.
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What's everyone thinking about this frame's mud collection capabilities?
Looks like shock and linkage are very well positioned to catch half the sh!t flying off the rear wheel
Any success ziptying a homemade fender to the rear triangle?
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Ya I'm going to start looking at some fenders. the best option would be to buy one from a bike company that has one on their bikes such as Santa Cruz. Edit: don't think they will work.
I bought one of their hightower ribbed chainstay protectors and it fits pretty well. Had to trim off a little bit but that wasn't hard like 5 sec with a hacksaw.
I got mine built up mostly waiting on cash to have my Chris Kings built into some lb carbon 29 hoops.
I went with the clear gloss and I have to recommend it. It comes off as almost black with a little grey you don't see all the carbon layup like matte it's deep with the carbon visible when the light hits it right. I've got a dyedbro.com wrap/protection kit on it and it is beautiful.
Ordered 29 lowers for my 27.5 mrp ribbon coil which will give me a 44mm offset fork. I'll run it 160mm to slack it a bit.
Got a fox performance 165x45 with a Rwc needle bearing in the top. It is very supple in decend mode it is as sensitive as my DB inline coil on my Recluse was. No joke not exaggerating. Say that though I'm sending it to Avalanche for tuning so I can have that sensitivity and pedal well.
Here's the wrap I got https://dyedbro.com/product/guadalupe-color/
Word of warning to anybody buying this frame LOCTITE YOUR TRUNNION BOLTS. They will loosen otherwise. I loctite mine and now no problem.
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Does anyone received new version of frame (LCFS958)? It is now stiff in previously cracked area, or it will be better to find another frame options? How is it going by now?
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Does anyone received new version of frame (LCFS958)? It is now stiff in previously cracked area, or it will be better to find another frame options? How is it going by now?
Yes I have the 958 in large. I have complete confidence in the frame. By the way mine weighed 2450grams in size large.
Also I am finding with this suspension less pressure less volume. Let it sit a bit low and fill the air chamber up . I have the .6 volume reducer plus a bunch of gear grease to shrink the volume. I like the grease method as I can really fine tune it.
Sitting at about 30% sag using this method I can pedal seated thru 1-2" roots all day with comfort and carrying speed no problem.
But still get a nice pump and pop due to the ramp up adjusting rebound to allow this of course.
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Yes I have the 958 in large. I have complete confidence in the frame. By the way mine weighed 2450grams in size large.
Also I am finding with this suspension less pressure less volume. Let it sit a bit low and fill the air chamber up . I have the .6 volume reducer plus a bunch of gear grease to shrink the volume. I like the grease method as I can really fine tune it.
Sitting at about 30% sag using this method I can pedal seated thru 1-2" roots all day with comfort and carrying speed no problem.
But still get a nice pump and pop due to the ramp up adjusting rebound to allow this of course.
Good to hear! Also, how about mud collection, do rear bearings and shock always covered in dirt?
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Not worse then any other bike I would say. The shock is mostly protected from it by the linkage.
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Not worse then any other bike I would say. The shock is mostly protected from it by the linkage.
Good, thanks) Can you tell me one thing, do mounts for brake caliper have metallic insertions for threads in them, and, are headset cups made from carbon? Can't find any photos of those parts.
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Yes insert and yes carbon.
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Does anybody know, is bsa metal insert one-piece, or it's two-pieces from each side of bb?
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reverend, does the 958 really have a 70 degree seat angle? That is what the Light carbon site lists but it looks steeper than that.
Thanks
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Hi everyone, first post for me on these forums, motivated by interest in a LCFS958 frame which will be my first foray into a Chinese carbon MTB (well, apart my name-brand Carbon MTBs which are made in China!).
I have a few questions if owners of LCFS937 or LCFS958 would be so kind to comment (I've read through this whole thread but apologies if my questions have already been answered!):
1- Anyone fit a 34T oval chainring on this frame? Is there enough chainstay clearance?
2- Anyone fit a piggyback Trunnion shock on the LCFS958? More specifically, a RS Super Deluxe or a DVO Topaz or Topaz 2?
3- How's LightCarbon's wheels compared to others like Eiecarbon? Eiecarbon quoted me significantly more for a very similar wheelset spec so I am wondering if LC is a good deal or Eiecarbon is superior in some way?
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In case anyone is wondering about piggyback shocks, I got in touch with John @ LightCarbon and this was his reply:
"this shock can't compatible. the piggyback will touch the frame"
Not a huge deal, but now I have to return that RS Super Deluxe I just bought!
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Couldn't you just run it upside down? Or would that not work either? If so, that's very limiting of the shocks you can use. Almost all decent coil shocks ruled out.
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Couldn't you just run it upside down? Or would that not work either? If so, that's very limiting of the shocks you can use. Almost all decent coil shocks ruled out.
Nope. The Trunnion mount is at the top of the shock, and they have to be mounted at the bottom of downtube above the bottom bracket (AFIAK the Trunnion mount side requires no hardware, but bolts straight through).
It's weird, becuase just by eyeballing the frame it looks like there is enough room for a piggyback, but I will have to take LightCarbon's official word on this until someone on this forum or elsewhere proves otherwise.
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Couldn't you just run it upside down? Or would that not work either? If so, that's very limiting of the shocks you can use. Almost all decent coil shocks ruled out.
No one makes a 165x45 coil shock anyway.
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Im almost positive a topaz 2 would fit.
And im almost positive if you took the control knobs off most would fit.
If you have the exact measurements of the shock i could get some rough measurements off my bike.
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Couldn't you just run it upside down? Or would that not work either? If so, that's very limiting of the shocks you can use. Almost all decent coil shocks ruled out.
No one makes a 165x45 coil shock anyway.
Hadn't realised it was so short.
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Im almost positive a topaz 2 would fit.
And im almost positive if you took the control knobs off most would fit.
If you have the exact measurements of the shock i could get some rough measurements off my bike.
I returned the RS Super Deluxe I ordered without taking measurements but if I manage to get my hands on a similar shock I'll take you up on that. Thanks!
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I was planning on ordering a LightCarbon LCR006-D frameset or what appears to be the same frameset from Dengfu (the R06). I am interested in anyone's experience with these two companies. My current preference is the frame from LightCarbon, but their rep Wendy insists that none of their frames work with hydraulic disc brakes? I am sure some of you have installed hydraulic disc brakes on one of their frames right? What about this specific frame (LCR006-D)? Thanks in advance for any info.
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Got a link to that lightcarbon frame? It is showing up on their website using their search feature
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Only thing i can think is maybe the hose size? Not going thru the internal routing holes?
I don't know my 958 has Trickstuff hydros and no problems.
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I'm considering this frame for a build. It seems like a DT swiss rear shock with a remote could be a good option: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/suspension/shocks (https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/suspension/shocks)
Although I only found one place that seemed willing to ship to the US.
This suntour shock appears to be a trunion that can be used with a remote but the website isn't very clear.https://www.srsuntour.us/collections/rear-shock/products/unair-rear-shock?variant=28395765956702 (https://www.srsuntour.us/collections/rear-shock/products/unair-rear-shock?variant=28395765956702)
I'd have to inquire further. Good price though.
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Thanks for the responses on this topic. Here is a link to the LightCarbon frame: https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-700c-aero-disc-brake-road-frameset_p35.html
Here is a link to what appears to be the same frame from Dengfu: http://m.dengfubikes.com/index.php?s=/203.html
Dengfu confirmed that hydraulic brakes work on their frame.
I thought the same thing about the cable routing on the LightCarbon frame and confirmed with them that it is both the cable and housing that runs through the frame; even included an annotated picture to bridge the language gap.
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I mean they even state that the frame is Di2 compatible. Are there even Di2 groupsets with mechanical disc brakes?
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OK, Maternicus that is a road bike frame and you have asked about it in the mountain bike forum. I suggest you ask here, http://chinertown.com/index.php/board,19.0.html as I am not sure how many go between both forums.
I suspect, as mentioned by ReverendRockRacer it will have something to do with the hose not fitting through the frame.
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Good Point emu26, will do.
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I have tideace frame , FM-R185 bought on ebay, they were very easy to deal with , i got XL frame , 59 cm, fits perfect, came with bb and headset both fit well. I had it partially painted with decals to match and all shipped to USA for $500.00 which was $425.00 for the bike and $75.00 for painting and decals, all in matte. And no tariff in USA. Took about 30 days from order date to receive.
I have trp hy/rd flat mount brakes on it, 160 mm in front and 140 mm in back. That's cable actuated hydraulic brake, love the brakes. Set up 1X11 , 50 11/28 right now.
It also has toseek carbon stem, carbon bar 440mm and Light Bicycle 56 mm wheels with schwalbe pro one tires running tubeless.
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Great looking bike mtbluvr68! I was thinking a very similar paint scheme with white frame and black inside the fork and rear. My thought was to have them paint the whole bike white and then I can add the black using plastidip, which would also act to protect the paint in those high risk areas. Not really opposed to mech disc brakes especially since it would allow me to fit a higher level groupset within my budget (of course the brakes would be off brand from the groupset). Does your bike support hydraulic brakes?
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TRP HY/RD brakes are cable actuated Hydraulic brakes. The hydraulic reservoir is at the brake caliper rather than in the hose. They actually modulate better than my full hydro brakes. Tideace said would work with hydraulic cables but i haven't tested yet.
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I was completely unaware of this tech. Now I have a whole new rabbit hole to jump down.
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... my 958 has Trickstuff hydros and no problems.
Wow... they seem so hard to get.
Are you happy with them ?
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I bought mine from bike24 so no real wait for me. Check the german online retailers they have them in stock from time to time.
I have the Piccola and i love them. They are a great trail brake with all the power you will ever need. Great modulation they feel really solid thanks to the 4 cartridge bearings in each lever.
They also do not require olive and barb. The attachment threads into the actual hose. I love this part of them.
And they happen to be the lightest hydro in the world. But don't feel like it they just feel like a great brake.
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One of the problems with owning Trickstuff is you are out of the brake conversation.
Anytime a new brake comes out you might start to read about it and get excited. But then you look at your bike and go "I'm good" like forever.
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One of the problems with owning Trickstuff is you are out of the brake conversation.
Anytime a new brake comes out you might start to read about it and get excited. But then you look at your bike and go "I'm good" like forever.
It's just a bit sad that you need a second mortgage to buy them! :)
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This is true very expensive. I even joked with Trickstuff on pinkbike when they showed their prototype fork. (Very raw and very sick.)
I told them I would like to buy one of their forks but I only have one kidney left after buying their brakes.
In reality I actually bought my brakes 1 at a time. And made sacrifices to pay for them. For several months I had a tickstuff on the front and an xtm8000 on the rear.
So i got a daily comparison between highend and budget brakes.
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One of the problems with owning Trickstuff is you are out of the brake conversation.
Anytime a new brake comes out you might start to read about it and get excited. But then you look at your bike and go "I'm good" like forever.
;)
The Race Hope brakes I did put on my first build 6 years ago, don't want to die either.
But the Trickstuff looks definitely on another level.
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Was going to build up one of these then went with a different frame, but every time I see a picture posted in this thread I can't help but think how good looking this bike is.
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LCFS958 Build 17.5”
Painted with Montana Black Spray Paint - Blue Lagoon
Clear Coated with Spraymaxx 2k Gloss
Wanted to do the same thing, bit wanted to use Montana Gold instead. Also using SorayMaxx 2K Primer.
When should I use Montana Black and when Gold?
Thanks
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Wanted to do the same thing, bit wanted to use Montana Gold instead. Also using SorayMaxx 2K Primer.
When should I use Montana Black and when Gold?
Thanks
Montana Gold is ideal as it's a low pressure can that allows a lower output and a more controlled spray. Black is high pressure can with high output, just like most aerosol paint, would cause the paint to run if you spray the surface too long.
I used black because of the colour choices. Just make sure you're using a respirator, this stuff gets everywhere. Especially the Spraymaxx 2k.
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Wanted to do the same thing, bit wanted to use Montana Gold instead. Also using SorayMaxx 2K Primer.
When should I use Montana Black and when Gold?
Thanks
Montana Gold is ideal as it's a low pressure can that allows a lower output and a more controlled spray. Black is high pressure can with high output, just like most aerosol paint, would cause the paint to run if you spray the surface too long.
I used black because of the colour choices. Just make sure you're using a respirator, this stuff gets everywhere. Especially the Spraymaxx 2k.
Thanks buddy.
The biggest undertaking is to find a dry and closed and ~20°C spot for painting. Normally painted outside, but it's a pain in the arse
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Hi
Close to pull the trigger on this awesome frame, but need advise on sizing.
I am 189 cm / 6.2 ft and inseam 86 cm / 2.82 ft.
Will XL be the choise for me?
Cheers Kristian
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Very close to pulling the trigger on this frame to build a replacement for my enduro bike. What do you guys think of my paint scheme? Do you think they would be able to pull it off? I took some inspiration from the Toyota TRD racing paint.
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I'm really surprised to see you guys still ordering this frame. I saw two frames failing on the thread starter at the same location.
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I thought they changed the model number to reflect the fix?
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I thought they changed the model number to reflect the fix?
oh ok, I missed that important info then. thanks
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I am waiting for my LCFS958 frame and carbon wheels to start my first build of a FS MTB. I already have a great bike, a Merida One Twenty 800 so I am doing this because I got inspired by this forum.
At first I thought that this would be a "cheap" way to build a nice bike. But now that I am calculating and ordering components I realize that I could have bought a great bike for the same money.
Of course I can build the LCFS958 on a budget, with cheap suspension components, cheap gears, cheap brakes, but then I will not know how good the frame is.
Now I have decided to built it with components of the same level as my Merida One-Twenty 800.
https://www.merida-bikes.com/sv-se/bike/14/one-twenty-800
Then it will be the frame that is the difference in the bikes. I hope and wish, that my LCFS958 is going to be better since it will cost more than my Merida.
I will post images during the process.
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I am waiting for my LCFS958 frame and carbon wheels to start my first build of a FS MTB. I already have a great bike, a Merida One Twenty 800 so I am doing this because I got inspired by this forum.
At first I thought that this would be a "cheap" way to build a nice bike. But now that I am calculating and ordering components I realize that I could have bought a great bike for the same money.
Of course I can build the LCFS958 on a budget, with cheap suspension components, cheap gears, cheap brakes, but then I will not know how good the frame is.
Now I have decided to built it with components of the same level as my Merida One-Twenty 800.
https://www.merida-bikes.com/sv-se/bike/14/one-twenty-800
Then it will be the frame that is the difference in the bikes. I hope and wish, that my LCFS958 is going to be better since it will cost more than my Merida.
I will post images during the process.
You are going to use the same components as on the merida and the new bike will be more expensive? Either the merdia frame is very cheap when you exclude all the components, or the LCF is very expensive.
Normally when I build a bike with the same components like the one in the shop, I end up cheaper. I only end up more expensive when I use the money, which I save on the frame, to buy better components as my initial intention
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You are going to use the same components as on the merida and the new bike will be more expensive? Either the merdia frame is very cheap when you exclude all the components, or the LCF is very expensive.
Normally when I build a bike with the same components like the one in the shop, I end up cheaper. I only end up more expensive when I use the money, which I save on the frame, to buy better components as my initial intention
This is my thought as well. On my hardtail build in 2014, I had about $4k to spend. That would have gotten me (at the time), a 24lb bike built with upper-midrange components and likely aluminum wheels (remember, carbon was more of an expensive novelty even back then). Instead I built a 20lb bike with xx1/x01 and carbon wheels for the same money. There was a ~$1000 difference for the frame (Branded to Open Mold) and ~$700 difference on the carbon wheels (branded to Open Mold). That money was applied to components. Using Chinese carbon seat post and handlebar and Chinese stem and seat further increased savings.
OEMs do get a break on components versus what we can generally find retail, but with some careful shopping I've found that components can be bought at very good prices compared to MSRP.
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You are going to use the same components as on the merida and the new bike will be more expensive? Either the merdia frame is very cheap when you exclude all the components, or the LCF is very expensive.
Normally when I build a bike with the same components like the one in the shop, I end up cheaper. I only end up more expensive when I use the money, which I save on the frame, to buy better components as my initial intention
This is my thought as well. On my hardtail build in 2014, I had about $4k to spend. That would have gotten me (at the time), a 24lb bike built with upper-midrange components and likely aluminum wheels (remember, carbon was more of an expensive novelty even back then). Instead I built a 20lb bike with xx1/x01 and carbon wheels for the same money. There was a ~$1000 difference for the frame (Branded to Open Mold) and ~$700 difference on the carbon wheels (branded to Open Mold). That money was applied to components. Using Chinese carbon seat post and handlebar and Chinese stem and seat further increased savings.
OEMs do get a break on components versus what we can generally find retail, but with some careful shopping I've found that components can be bought at very good prices compared to MSRP.
That's it! 20lb for 4000$? Oh wow that's a very difficult undertaking. Only manageable with a decent amount of AliExpress and used parts. Especially when you are going for XX1/X01, which is even way more expensive than Shimano XTR.
Do you have a part list with money you spent and weights?
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I pulled the trigger on this frame and my build parts added up to $2300. But only because I went ahead and splurged on the wheels. Got a RS Pike and Super Deluxe for less than $400 for both. Hoping the shock fits. This will be replacing my long travel enduro steed and I'm hoping to get a little bit more to recoup the cost
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I thought they changed the model number to reflect the fix?
oh ok, I missed that important info then. thanks
The newer version of the frame seems to be much more durable. I've taken it on several jump lines and some big drops. It held up fine, no cracks or any problems. Once you get the suspension dialed in, it really rips and I'm surprised it's not that popular. I'm guessing the first version has steered some people away.
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*Sorry to hijack thread* ;)
That's it! 20lb for 4000$? Oh wow that's a very difficult undertaking. Only manageable with a decent amount of AliExpress and used parts. Especially when you are going for XX1/X01, which is even way more expensive than Shimano XTR.
Do you have a part list with money you spent and weights?
The most 'up-to-date' list from my build is attached. A few things to keep in mind:
- This was 2014. The bicycle market has inflated steadily since then.
- I built three nearly identical bikes at the same time and leveraged quantity for price reductions. For example, the groupsets were bought by an offer sent to and eBay seller in the UK. He discounted significantly for 3 full groupsets.
- All carbon components, including the wheels, were bought from the same Chinese seller. Again, leveraged for cost/shipping reduction.
- There are costs not reflected on this list including custom paint, paint protection film, tools, fluids, cables, etc. But everything is still in the ball park. Total price when I added up everything including shipping after the built was done was right around $4100/bike if my memory is correct.
- Actual weight of my bike was 20.65lbs with the heavier casing tires. Could have been just at about 20.0-20.2 if I went with thin casing tires, which would be dumb where I ride. I would go broke replacing them.
- There are very few 'Name Brands' on the bike. Really only the mechanical bits and brakes. Rest is generic/open mold.
- Frame shown in the photo is not the original frame. I accidently landed on the original frame's seat stay and cracked it in 2018. This replacement frame was a bit more expensive, but weighed the same.
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Oh ok, you're talking about a Hardtail...
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I have now had my LCFS 937 for just over a year now and am still loving it. No cracks, the frame is still quiet and stiff. The Lightcarbon rims are also holding up very well.
I have had zero issues with it. I maintain the linkage hardware and bearings often and have not noticed any wear yet.
My opinions remain the same - it climbs about how you would expect a 130mm flex stay bike to climb (good enough) and descends very well. Fun bike.
Also, a year later and still get lots of people admiring and asking about the bike.
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I just got my frame today. Can I ask how you went about routing all the cables and hydraulic hoses? Is it the tube-in kind? Or do we use the white plastic tube guides that the frame came with?
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I just got my frame today. Can I ask how you went about routing all the cables and hydraulic hoses? Is it the tube-in kind? Or do we use the white plastic tube guides that the frame came with?
Routing the cables are very easy on the front triangle. Before building the bike, I took the cable guides off to make the hole much bigger and fed housing from the bottom and to the top. You can guide them into the top holes by reaching through the head tube with your fingers.
The rear triangle has an internal cable guide for the brake side, but on the derailleur side you'll have to use the tubes it came with or you can use a magnet to guide the steel derailleur cable in, then run the housing on it after.
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Adding my build pics to this thread! After a botched facebook marketplace paint job I ended up spending the weekend painting it. I call the paint scheme "Mt. Fuji Shrimp".
Anyone has any tips on installing a long dropper post?
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Adding my build pics to this thread! After a botched facebook marketplace paint job I ended up spending the weekend painting it. I call the paint scheme "Mt. Fuji Shrimp".
Anyone has any tips on installing a long dropper post?
What shock is that, and does it actually fit properly? Easy to air up and adjust? Works through the full travel?
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Adding my build pics to this thread! After a botched facebook marketplace paint job I ended up spending the weekend painting it. I call the paint scheme "Mt. Fuji Shrimp".
Anyone has any tips on installing a long dropper post?
What shock is that, and does it actually fit properly? Easy to air up and adjust? Works through the full travel?
It's a Super Deluxe 165x45. It fits perfectly with some caveats. First, if you go for the ultimate as I did and have a lever to close it or open it, you won't be able to use it. There's simply no space for it to move. Luckily it's stuck open.
Airing it up it's easy. Adjusting the rebound is doable, just a bit awkward. My shock has a low speed compression setting and I can adjust it but it's also very awkward.
I went to a bike park today to test it out and I was definitely going through full travel. So much that I think I want to add a mega dawg spacer to add some progression. I weight 205 and I have the pressure at 295 and it still going through the travel rather quickly.
Here's a pic of how much clearance there is on my large frame. The guide fits just fine
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Received the LCFS958 frame, still waiting for the right hardware for the shock-mount. Branded it and put on frame protection on crucial places.
Heard rumors of people having problems that the suspension eats bearing. Anyone that can tell me more about that. Problems and solutions?
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8507/178138507-origpic-81c154.jpg)
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Received the LCFS958 frame, still waiting for the right hardware for the shock-mount. Branded it and put on frame protection on crucial places.
Heard rumors of people having problems that the suspension eats bearing. Anyone that can tell me more about that. Problems and solutions?
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8507/178138507-origpic-81c154.jpg)
I haven't heard any rumors about that. There were issues with the trunnion mount bolts coming loose but that was easily fixed with loctite.
I'm taking mine to a dh park this weekend so I'm sure any possible issues will come to light then
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Took my bike to a DH park where I'm very familiar with the trails. The bike handled everything super well! I was really impressed! I normally ride park on my 170mm front/160mm rear Commencal enduro bike.
This bike felt more flickable, faster out of berms, and easier to throw around the chunk.
The only thing is the rear travel. 130mm is fine for most trails but I was constantly bottoming out. I think this is due to the linear travel of my shock. I'm thinking of installing a megneg to change the progression.
For anyone on the fence about this frame I'd say go for it! It handled a heavy rider with full armor for a whole day of gravity riding sweetness! And I was certainly not babying it!
On a side note the Pike with debonair spring is great!
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Has anyone tried this frame with a 160mm fork? How's it feel?
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Also interested to know this, I have a 130-160 Pike I'm thinking of using on it.
Has anyone tried this frame with a 160mm fork? How's it feel?
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Testing the parts together before I start mounting the Magura brakes, SRAM crankset and groupset.
My first ordered dropperpost was to high with 170 mm travel, so I sent it back and I have ordered a new one with 125 mm travel.
I have also ordered a new Stem Ø35mm to fit the carbon handlebar I ordered from Light Carbon. The stem I have is for Ø31,8mm.
But so far I am very happy with how well build the frame is. The finish is good and everything fits nice in place.
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h8507/178138507-origpic-16cb11.jpg)
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...Testing the parts together before I start mounting...
Did you order with the lettering or did you do it yourself ?
Have fun mounting it !
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Also interested to know this, I have a 130-160 Pike I'm thinking of using on it.
You might be able to simulate the extra "slackness" of using a 160mm by swapping the rear wheel for a 27.5.
I'm running a Pike at 140 with debonair and I can't say it has hold me back in the technical terrain here in CO. I don't go for the biggest jumps but I do enjoy technical descends. I think someone might have run this frame with 160 over on the MTBR thread
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Did you order with the lettering or did you do it yourself ?
Have fun mounting it !
I did the lettering myself. I have a hifi company, Akkelis Audio, and some customers call me Akke, so therefore the name, AKKEBIKE. The lettering is in graphite, so with little light its almost black, in sun it shines in silver. I like it.
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Now its really close. stem and bar in place, Magura MT5 brakes front and rear in place, all wires in place, shifter in place, just the cassette and chain and of course adjustment of everything. Maybe I can do my first ride soon :D
(https://admin.abicart.se/shop/1785/art85/h8507/178138507-origpic-7e0185.jpg)
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Now my LCFS958 is finished. I have made a short testride and the first impression is really great. It feel fastand smoot. Carbon frame, wheels and bar helps.
Parts used:
LCFS958 from from Light Carbon
Carbon wheel with DT Swiss 350 hubs from Light Carbon
Bar, Light Carbon Riser 20 mm
Rear shock, Rockshox Deluxe Ultimate RCT
Fork, FOX 36 Performance 140mm
Headset, KNC KHS PT
Brakes, Magura MT5
Bottom bracket and saddle, Nukeproof
Crank, shifter, cassette, derailleur, SRAM GX Eagle
Pedals, Blackspire nylotrax
Seatpost, Red Cykling dropper
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1969/178411969-origpic-a69a37.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1969/178411969-origpic-ba205f.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1969/178411969-origpic-4b1dab.jpg)
(https://shopcdn2.textalk.se/shop/1785/art85/h1969/178411969-origpic-f2dbc2.jpg)
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Greetings from USA, Please let me know what bushing kit needs to be used to fit rear shock.
I tried a 22*8 and it is too small. The spec says this the size.
At another place it says 30*8...is that the correct size? Does the bushing fit snugly in the eyelet..I have never done this before so excuse my ignorance.
I have DPX float Fox rear 165*42.5.
Thanks
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Edit: Sorry wrong frame thread ;D, but my advice on measuring the internal width is still valid.
Been reading this thread in preperation for my frame to arrive, i thin the nominal with is 22,2mm, however i thin there are a few reports that it measures wider than that. There are a span of different widths of the bushing 22, 22.2, 22.8 etc i would suggest you measure the internal width of the mount on your bike and buys one that fills it out or shim it until it fits.
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Yes thanks, ordered a Fox 8*30.
https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware
Hopefully it fits
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where did you read 22*8? the lightcarbon site says 30*8
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I ordered a 22.0x8 mounting hardware and the fit is snug as it should on my RS super deluxe. The frame comes with shims that go on the sides of the mounting hardware. That might be the difference here. No problems on my end. The lightcarbon site is dumb. They specify a 30.0x8 but they link to a 22.0x8 mounting kit.
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I ordered a 22.0x8 mounting hardware and the fit is snug as it should on my RS super deluxe. The frame comes with shims that go on the sides of the mounting hardware. That might be the difference here. No problems on my end. The lightcarbon site is dumb. They specify a 30.0x8 but they link to a 22.0x8 mounting kit.
i just assumed that you were supposed to pick the 30x8mm set from that amazon link. i'll measure my frame when it arrives and report back.
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Yes thanks, ordered a Fox 8*30.
https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware
Hopefully it fits
This worked! FYI
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How did you guys route the hydraulic brake lines through the frame? I just had a hell of a time with the dropper post
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NVM, just electric taped the hell out of the plastic guides to the hydraulic line and pushed it through
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I really love this bike ;D
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Welp, took a nice spill and landed on a rock with my top tube :/
Rode it the next day and it was fine but I'm still a bit concerned long term. Does anyone have any experience repairing carbon? I'm lucky to have 2 bike specific carbon repair shops within miles but they are asking $350 for the repair. The frame being sub $500 makes it a hard pill to swallow.
I'm thinking of ordering a kit online and repairing it myself so I'm reaching out to see if anyone has any experience.
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Personally rather than doing a DIY repair I'd see if you can get a front triangle only first!
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Personally rather than doing a DIY repair I'd see if you can get a front triangle only first!
That was also my first instinct. Unfortunately LC said they're too busy with an OEM order and they can only sell me a full frame. Granted they were kind enough to offer me a discount on the new frame but shipped it would still be close to $550
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I really love this bike ;D
hi Stefan,
first of all thanks a lot for the fantastic pics of your builds. Great idea with the custom lettering, I decided to do the same.
Could you let me know the size of your lettering on downtube and chain stays?
I guess your frame is 19"? I have one coming in that size. Seat post length seams to be an issue, they say 200 mm max insertion. Is that accurate, i.e. a 31.6 mm tube can be inserted only 200 mm, then it is blocked by a cross section change or similar? I understand there is a hole above the linkage for the dropper wire?
I will try to fit a 150 travel reverb, so wish me luck...
Thanks, Philipp
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Thanks Philipp.
I have had the bike for a couple of months now and ride 2-4 times a week. I love it, its fantastic and I am a better rider with this bike than with my "old" Merida One-Twenty 800. I climb better, i descend better, I fell more safe and take on challenges I did not before.
The "Akkebike" lettering is 343*40 mm.
The dropper post is a problem, I first tried a 170 mm but it was to long so now I have a 125 mm dropper with a total length of 420 mm and that works well.
https://www.bikester.se/red-cycling-products-remote-dropper-teleskop-sattelstutze-316-mm-M724376.html
I have built 3 "Akkebikes" so now the whole family has one each. This is really fun so i am planning another build, the more Enduro-oriented LSFS 947.
Best regards
Stefan
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FYI guys, I was able to fit a 170mm PNW dropper post (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/shop-all-droppers/products/loam-dropper-post (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/shop-all-droppers/products/loam-dropper-post)) in my XL frame with plenty of clearance and slammed all the way down. This particular dropper can be shimmed all the way down to 150mm so it could work well for this frame in different sizes.
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Stefan, rubybear, thanks, great info. I was also planning on the Loam dropper, in 150 mm. Then it suddenly was sold out, so I grabbed a second hand Reverb, 440 mm full length. Let's see, I should be fine with ~210 mm insertion.
Frame shipped today, I'm hoping to build in February.
Stefan, keep us posted on your next project!
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interesting geometry - decent price, exactly what i'm looking for for a new build, but I want the shock orientation to be like that of the ibis ripley - not sure what that's called.
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In the way?
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Question about suspension setup for the 958:
I find I have to run very high pressure in my RS Deluxe Ultimate 165x45 to get proper sag.
Is it normal with this frame or am I missing something? With 250psi for my 85kg/190lbs I am still at around 30-35% sag.
I never had to run such high pressure on previous bikes...?
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Question about suspension setup for the 958:
I find I have to run very high pressure in my RS Deluxe Ultimate 165x45 to get proper sag.
Is it normal with this frame or am I missing something? With 250psi for my 85kg/190lbs I am still at around 30-35% sag.
I never had to run such high pressure on previous bikes...?
Dude same! I weight 210 and I'm pushing like 330psi on my super deluxe ultimate too! I'm still at about 25% sag. I was eating through the travel so quickly before I realized that the LSC setting on my shock was the culprit. I recently bought a gnar dog token to see if I can use it to ramp up the spring curve and maybe I can run lower pressures. I'm a bit afraid it might turn my shock into a pogo stick due to the low travel. Another option might be a Megneg air can upgrade for our shocks, I haven't tried it but it could be worth a look.
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Anyone tried to fit 29x2.6 rear tires? Seems like it’s gonna fit
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Dude same! I weight 210 and I'm pushing like 330psi on my super deluxe ultimate too! I'm still at about 25% sag. I was eating through the travel so quickly before I realized that the LSC setting on my shock was the culprit. I recently bought a gnar dog token to see if I can use it to ramp up the spring curve and maybe I can run lower pressures. I'm a bit afraid it might turn my shock into a pogo stick due to the low travel. Another option might be a Megneg air can upgrade for our shocks, I haven't tried it but it could be worth a look.
Dunno about the volume spacer. The progression rate is kinda where I want it rn.
And afaik the smallest megneg is for 185x47.5 unfortunately. I've never looked into custom shock tunes, idk if that helps with this particular problem?
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Finished my build and did the first two rides. Thanks to all contributors on this thread! Super happy with the result. Came in at 12.9 kg, even though my list said 13.2. Maybe I forgot something? :o :P
Frame is 19", 2487 g with hanger and the supplied damper bolts (without axle and saddle clamp). No issues at all with the frame and hardware, fit and finish is good. Bearings seem very good, all MAX type with plenty of grease inside.
Didn't like the fact that the trunnion bolts clamp the damper firmly to the frame, so with bolts tightened, no movement is possible. As a workaround I inserted a couple washers into the blind holes in the trunnion, so that the bolts are tightened against the bottom of the hole and not against the frame. This way, the damper can pivot freely. Still not a "good" solution, but better than nothing. I am constantly checking the bolts...
Rides great, sort of pushes me to go faster on uphills, even though the powermeter data doesn't show a noticeable difference compared to my previous 27.5" all mountain...
Need to dial in the damper (Fox DPS), so I borrowed a ShockWiz 8).
Actually I planned to use a damper remote, but noticed that I can reach the damper lever quite easily. So I guess I won't bother ;)
I noticed that Lightcarbon measures the stack to the axles, not to the BB. So you need to add the BB drop to compare to others...
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I think your trunnion mount is missing some spacers.
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I think your trunnion mount is missing some spacers.
Hi, which spacers? Any others than I added?
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Where you have filled with washers, I don't remember my DPX2 having such a deep recess, if it did it certainly wasn't shiny like yours appears to be. Either way I didn't have this problem with my FM10 as the frame came with washers to sit on the inside edge of that corresponding bearings.
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Well the shiny thing is a washer already in that hole ;) I also have a DPX2, it has pretty similar trunnion holes as the DPS.
The issue is that the LCFS958 doesn't have corresponding bearings...
Another note: My reverb B with 150 travel just fit, I had to bend the hose quite sharply at its connection to the seatpost. Seat rails are at 72 cm distance from the BB center.
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I'm considering one of these frames myself and was wondering about the trunnion bolt/frame interface as well. Has anyone tried using a thrust bearing, or similar, with those bolts? I would assume that slightly longer hardware would need to be sourced, to account for the added stack of the thrust bearing. It seems like it would allow for the bolts to achieve proper torque, but still allow the shock to have the needed rotational/pivoting movement.
Just a thought.
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Has anyone tried using a thrust bearing, or similar, with those bolts?
Such bearing would be needed under the bolt head and between trunnion and frame, unfortunately there's no space.
A good solution would be to tighten the bolt against a distance bush, with a sliding bearing between bushing and frame. Obviously this would require enlarging the hole in the frame by quite a lot. Might work if it's all carbon fibers around the hole, but could be critical if there is any foam or other filling material.
My workaround seems to hold up OK so far, no loosening yet.
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Finished my build and did the first two rides. Thanks to all contributors on this thread! Super happy with the result. Came in at 12.9 kg, even though my list said 13.2. Maybe I forgot something? :o :P
Frame is 19", 2487 g with hanger and the supplied damper bolts (without axle and saddle clamp). No issues at all with the frame and hardware, fit and finish is good. Bearings seem very good, all MAX type with plenty of grease inside.
Didn't like the fact that the trunnion bolts clamp the damper firmly to the frame, so with bolts tightened, no movement is possible. As a workaround I inserted a couple washers into the blind holes in the trunnion, so that the bolts are tightened against the bottom of the hole and not against the frame. This way, the damper can pivot freely. Still not a "good" solution, but better than nothing. I am constantly checking the bolts...
Rides great, sort of pushes me to go faster on uphills, even though the powermeter data doesn't show a noticeable difference compared to my previous 27.5" all mountain...
Need to dial in the damper (Fox DPS), so I borrowed a ShockWiz 8).
Actually I planned to use a damper remote, but noticed that I can reach the damper lever quite easily. So I guess I won't bother ;)
I noticed that Lightcarbon measures the stack to the axles, not to the BB. So you need to add the BB drop to compare to others...
wow i love your build...i wanted to get one of those Trust forks too but waaaay above my budget.....
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Hey Guys advice on parts for my build especially Budget Rear shock and fittings.....?
any links...please look at my attachments and links....
Stem
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DABOMB-Bike-Components-Downhill-Enduro-31_60718923151.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.239a2b63eGHgxd
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Stems-Aluminium-Alloy-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Handlebar-Riser-Stem-31-8-35mm/284106783252?var=585598090942
pedals
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKBROS-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Bearing-Widen-Pedals-Nylon-Pedals-a-Pair-6-Styles/173363170487?var=472366867443
Handlebar
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WAKE-31-8-x-780-mm-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Aluminum-Alloy-Riser-Handlebar/352599726448?var=621939880556
Fork
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Air-Fork-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Suspension-Fork-140mm-Travel-Axle-15-110mm/353235923491?var=622435005202
Cranks
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IXF-MTB-Bike-Crankset-170-175mm-Al-Alloy-Crank-arm-Chainwheel-GXP-32-34-36-38T/373319133242?var=642294466511
Cassette
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLANY-Bike-MTB-Cassette-10-Speed-11-50T-Freewheel-Sprocket-Gear-Ratio-Flywheel-/352830811333
Rear shock?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DNM-Mountain-Bike-Air-Rear-Shock-Suspension-With-Lockout-190x50mm-XC-Trail/202680088760?var=502776742489
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Regarding the trunnion mount: I've put locktite on mine when building the bike and after over 3 months they haven't come loose. However, I have to retighten the top shock mounting bolt regularly despite locktite and will try stronger locktite soon.
Hey Guys advice on parts for my build especially Budget Rear shock and fittings.....?
any links...please look at my attachments and links....
Stem
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DABOMB-Bike-Components-Downhill-Enduro-31_60718923151.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.239a2b63eGHgxd
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Stems-Aluminium-Alloy-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Handlebar-Riser-Stem-31-8-35mm/284106783252?var=585598090942
pedals
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCKBROS-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Bearing-Widen-Pedals-Nylon-Pedals-a-Pair-6-Styles/173363170487?var=472366867443
Handlebar
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WAKE-31-8-x-780-mm-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Aluminum-Alloy-Riser-Handlebar/352599726448?var=621939880556
Fork
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Air-Fork-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Suspension-Fork-140mm-Travel-Axle-15-110mm/353235923491?var=622435005202
Cranks
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IXF-MTB-Bike-Crankset-170-175mm-Al-Alloy-Crank-arm-Chainwheel-GXP-32-34-36-38T/373319133242?var=642294466511
Cassette
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLANY-Bike-MTB-Cassette-10-Speed-11-50T-Freewheel-Sprocket-Gear-Ratio-Flywheel-/352830811333
Rear shock?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DNM-Mountain-Bike-Air-Rear-Shock-Suspension-With-Lockout-190x50mm-XC-Trail/202680088760?var=502776742489
If you go with these forks, make sure to report back how they hold up. Afaik there's not much info on here about chiner suspension forks. But be aware that it's one of the more risky parts to cheap out on.
As for the shock I'd avoid DNM and buy a used fox or something if you can. If you're lucky it will cost about the same.
The other stuff seems fine.
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2 michaeldepeza:
I see pic of RxR chinese wheelset even though it's not on the list. So, DON'T. EVAR.
Used this 29" shit on my carbon rigid mtb to run roads, sometimes ride over curbs, so no trainings at all or something technical. After a few months they started wobbling and became oval-like. Tried to fix them, got rly big spreading of tension values to make them straight. Just garbage. And yeah, I'm 73 kg, tires were 2.1" both.
When I purchased them, it was something like 100usd (delivery included), now the price got unreasonably higher. Try to find something used or buy new and branded ones.
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Thanks man....not gonna go for overly cheap carbon wheels...actually liked the WTB set i saw for like $200Us...
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Regarding the trunnion mount: I've put locktite on mine when building the bike and after over 3 months they haven't come loose. However, I have to retighten the top shock mounting bolt regularly despite locktite and will try stronger locktite soon.
If you go with these forks, make sure to report back how they hold up. Afaik there's not much info on here about chiner suspension forks. But be aware that it's one of the more risky parts to cheap out on.
As for the shock I'd avoid DNM and buy a used fox or something if you can. If you're lucky it will cost about the same.
The other stuff seems fine.
Can you point me to any threads about Chiner Forks?
also whats the deal with DNM?...i had reached out to them about the USD Forks but they responded saying they dont make them RN.....
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Purely anecdotal. I've had a DNM air shock, albeit on a recumbent bike, that was terribly unsensitive. Dunno if the seals had such high friction or what, but you basically had to ride off a curb to get it going. And then it just blew through all of its travel. I wouldn't want that on such a nice frame, especially with the high anti squat you need a sensitive shock.
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Budget Rear shock .....?
seems aliexpress is out of Fox DPS shocks. Bad luck... check the classifieds. I bought a lot of my parts from classifieds, including the Trust fork.
Check aliexpress for parts like crank, cassette, stem etc. Typically ztto official store is a safe bet.
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FYI guys, I was able to fit a 170mm PNW dropper post (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/shop-all-droppers/products/loam-dropper-post (https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/shop-all-droppers/products/loam-dropper-post)) in my XL frame with plenty of clearance and slammed all the way down. This particular dropper can be shimmed all the way down to 150mm so it could work well for this frame in different sizes.
Hey Bro and Guys im trying to choose ideal size....my present bike matched to this frame would put me in 19" frame choice however i initially was gonna order the 20.5 frame...my thinking now is that's too large as my Trek Superfly was extra large at 21"...a 2012 model....
i'm 5'10"
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2 michaeldepeza:
I see pic of RxR chinese wheelset even though it's not on the list. So, DON'T. EVAR.
Used this 29" shit on my carbon rigid mtb to run roads,
If you're going to use Chinese wheelsets get a decent set from light-bicycle , or ican or yoleo or nextie. I have light bicycle built wheels on XC bike, Road bike and Gravel bike, they are very well built very strong wheels, but they cost about 700-900 a set . My XC are hope pro2 evo hubs and dt swiss spokes and the road/gravel are novatect 791/792 hubs with pillar 1420 spokes. From experience the $300-500 sets are sketchy as hell.
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Hey Bro and Guys im trying to choose ideal size....my present bike matched to this frame would put me in 19" frame choice however i initially was gonna order the 20.5 frame...my thinking now is that's too large as my Trek Superfly was extra large at 21"...a 2012 model....
i'm 5'10"
I'm 6' with short legs and could JUST fit the 150 mm Reverb B, the hose does a very sharp corner though. Would not work if it was a bowden...
I have a 19" frame, I think it fits me perfectly.
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Hey Guys,
So My Frame is done. just to get it shipped out now....My Country is still under lockdowns due to COVID19 so im gonna have enough time to build this baby before her unveiling and unleashing on my Trail Network.....
So Been through the chats regarding this frame....Wendy told me ill have to get all my shock mounting hardware online...
Question -Where can i buy a proper fit of shock hardware?
-Which travel is the ideal one for rear shock?
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i just assumed that you were supposed to pick the 30x8mm set from that amazon link. i'll measure my frame when it arrives and report back.
Hey man...did you get through with your shock bushing issue and how far along are you on build?
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Hey Guys my frame arrived...
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test
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Two new i mages of this amazing bike (LCFS958) I Named in Ahkalis with is the Sampi name of Akkelis. Here is the Akkebike Ahkalis with the mountain Akkelis in the background :-)
And another image from the top of another mountain.
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Hey guys is it just me or are others unable to get pg 12 to load?
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I just have to say that the LCFS958 is still a great bike, love riding it. Maybe in todays tounge its more downcountry than trail, with 130/140 mm travel (?) But it climbs well, descends well, is easy to handle quite light, a great bike :-)
And after the issues with the AM831 I must say that Light Carbon frames fell very thought through and well made.
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I'm looking at options for a light to mid travel trail bike, does the LCFS958 still make since in 2024? The stack/reach and head tube angle are a bit dated but not awful. I've used that FM1001 for a couple of builds and its fine, just doesn't inspire excitement for me. I'd also rather not over fork an XC frame (i.e. not an FM936/909, LCFS918, etc.).
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I'm still happy with the frame 3.5 years later. Because:
9point8 nowadays make an angle headset (Slack-R) that is compatible with the frame. With the angle headset and 150mm fork the geometry still holds up imo (unless you absolutely must have a super steep seat tube angle for some reason).
Personally I wouldn't want to run my frame without the angle headset again.