Yep the ten tooth thing is super overblown. That cog is for down hill any watts given up are gravity assisted watts. If you are in that cog on flat ground buy bigger front rings.

Hell I run a e thirteen 9 46 on my gravel rig but that 9 tooth is for down hill only.

Not AliX but didnt want to make a new thread, 650B carbon wheels 24.5mm internal for £198 GBP

EXTRA10 code

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/prime-orra-650b-carbon-gravel-wheelset

Insanely good deal

I agree went to buy but price is only for UK. Us customers full retail.

No experience at all, just wanted to say you shouldn't try to appeal to people with the taste of 12-year-olds, probably (no reason). And then I wanted to start a rant about how monocoque wheels are inferior to modern spoke wheels in almost every regard, starting with weight ... and then I saw the listed weights. Fuck, they're scary light!

I'm sorry. Didn't mean to interrupt. Pls do go on.

Nope man that is per wheel weights. You can get run of the mill xc carbon wheelsets a couple hundred more grams than the back alone.

I do like them if they truly are bomb proof. If they have a good price on the 11 11 sale that would be great.

With the cost of those I would be much more tempted to try berd spoked wheels if you are friends with a builder.

Now if I am looking for mtb bling I am going to industry nine and get some real flash. That is what the 12 year old me would buy all kinds of anodized goodness.

Yeah they have a few things at great prices like ragley frames at 50% off.

Just noticed a bit late my size sold out quickly in the trig. Great price for what it is.

So if you are small or tall they have good deals

Well race is  up to you and set up.

The worlds were won yesterday on a un released Merida that looks shockingly like a jena or a gr047 from tantan. Dont know the geometry of it but it was size or two too small with a huge stem and an extremely long seat post. Certainly looks like a bike packing frame to me.

It has more to do with set up and the engine pushing the pedals.

Weight and aero are not real deal breakers because strength is more important and how fast are you really going?

Google mohoric's bike That won the rainbow jersey the other day. He ran a road group. 2x dura ace

Now I love that dropper post mad man mohoric.

Alright so I'm going to update everyone on my build so far:

As I noted in my last comment, shipping was not quick. Initially I had been quoted 15 days to shipping. The next 2 times I had asked for updates, Wendy said the frame would ship "by the end of next week", which was a lie on both occasions. Lesson learned, if you care about the lead time, ask for a quoted lead time BEFORE you pay. I had also ordered the frame with no rivets, but was told I would have to wait ANOTHER week for that one, but I could choose to take the riveted frame immediately, so I went for that. Not ideal but I'll live

Options chosen: 55cm frame, 100mm integrated stem, SP03 seatpost, black paint/no custom paint

Weights:
- frame: 1063g
- fork: 499g
- seatpost: 192g
- stem: 153g

Notes:

Frame: tubes look nice, feels very light, but the quality of the bottom bracket is dogshit. I don't know how this frame passed Hambini's BB-weenie test, because my frame's BB is terrible. HUGE deposit of resin on one of the cups that I had to file down. There's a big gouge/void in the other cup. Internal diameter was something like 40.3-40.8mm in diameter, when it should be a bit closer to 41. I've had to file down the void, and hit the cups with some sandpaper to clean up the surface. I'm using a token ninja thread-together BB, evidently the cups are not aligned because the crank has been binding like crazy to install, and does not spin freely. I'm hoping that most of it is just binding between the bottom bracket bearings and the crank spindle, but I might have to resort to a BBinfinite if the situation does not improve with some use. 

Fork: Chunky and solid. I mean, it weighs half as much as the frame. Thru-axle threads were crusty and bind-ey. As on many budget forks, inside of the steerer is fiberglass.

Seatpost: The tube is very thick and chunky. Easily could be 50g lighter. Painted with opaque gloss black paint. Internal profile is slightly oval. I like the seat binding clamps. This post definitely won't fail on you! Definitely a part I look to upgrade soon.

Stem: Awful awful awful. Stem face bolts and threads are not aligned well so it binds when screwing. Internal diameter of handlebar clamp is slightly smaller than spec so it slightly crushes the handlebar (I may have damaged my handlebar, oh well). Heavy. Why did this need to be carbon?

Hardware & assembly: Stem spacers are split, good. Seatpost clamp face is machined to literally appear like a device for filing/grinding things. Pretty okay for post-security, but this will LITERALLY shred the paint/material off of your seatpost where/near you clamp it. Headset bearings are okay, fitment is spot-on, no notes there, good-job lightcarbon. Everything else is bog-standard solid & cheap parts. Steerer tube compression bung and topcap compressor are heavy steel parts. For assembly, I built up with SRAM Force AXS etap, so very easy to just route the brake hoses, especially since I didn't have an integrated bar. No surprises there, I used a magnetic routing toolkit to help me out.

So, overall verdict? I guess for $660, it's fine. I kind of have regrets about getting this bike instead of a used bike, but that's on me. I've spent so much on this bike it's not really competitive with used bike prices anymore, which is really what motivated my road bike build in the first place. As for the quality--I have questions. This frame has ended up in the workshops of several youtubers lately, who have sung its praises--and my experience definitely does not line up. Is this "Wendy's revenge" for me insistently bugging them about getting my frame shipped? Or is some funny business afoot--did lightcarbon decide to let QC slip with the new popularity of this frame? Who knows.

Anways, wish me luck as I finish this build out and attempt a season of cyclocross on it.

Wow. I would just take a deep breath and relax I bit.

Lets put your frame into what you can truly buy for that 660 bucks. In my world you just bought a surly with a free headset stem and seatpost. Now look at your purchase. Would you rather a surly? Not me.

Lets go higher end well than a thousand bucks cheaper that a steel Rodeo Labs or Fairlight still with the free stuff.

The other thing when you had the stuff out crapping on the holes not being perfect did you take the time to measure the BB? Do you have a problem? And with what exactly? With a 40.8 you do realize that is less than two human hairs from 41. A human hair is .17

Everyone likes to crap on the frame without measuring the bb. The other thing press fit works when ALL things measure right not just the frame. Some brands of bb have the same problems making circles. The thread together or all the others are designed to fix problems. You only need them when you do have a problem.

I personally would just install a bb that measures what it should and ride it. You should order from a brand that offers t47 next time odds are that is what everyone is going to.

Nice bike certainly nicer than my old surly trucker.

Thanks, that one looks interesting, but from the pictures I am doubtful it can clear 650bx2.1".  I know I'm asking a lot 

That is asking a ton of a frame really. You will get into problems unless it has a cx bb drop and a 55mm tire on any bike it is asking the world in your wants. Hell with knobs those are massive.

You could just find a cx bike easy to fix the bb drop issues with running 650s but will only get away with probably 47s

I would think with what they spent in promos of this bike they probably have that mold locked up for a while.

I am in the same boat I love the new ridley kanzo adventure. Checks all boxes internal dynamo wiring front and back. It looks like a carbon bike packing dream but not gonna see that for a while if ever. I like it a bunch just not four times the cost of something else.