Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: ujmo_ on October 30, 2023, 11:54:07 AM
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Hi all, first post here. I've got two questions:
- Is there anyone who already has this frame?
- Do you know of some brands that use the frame except of https://prorace.be/en/bikes/aero/batalla/
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I bought it, but did not find the time to mount it.
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It is now gone on Yishunbike's website :(
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I bought it, but did not find the time to mount it.
If you checked the carbon quality, what is your impression of it so far?
It is now gone on Yishunbike's website :(
Hm I was told few days ago that it's available. I wonder what size would be the best fit - I'm 180cm tall with 87cm inseam.
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Where sizing is concerned if you have an existing bike that fits you, use a bike geometry site like https://geometrygeeks.bike/ to match your existing bike to the proposed new bike. Yishun can also provide you with a sizing guide, hence email and request it This is the url for the 1088 on geometry geeks https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/yishun-r1088-d-corrected-geometry-2023/
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Where sizing is concerned if you have an existing bike that fits you, use a bike geometry site like https://geometrygeeks.bike/ to match your existing bike to the proposed new bike. Yishun can also provide you with a sizing guide, hence email and request it This is the url for the 1088 on geometry geeks https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/yishun-r1088-d-corrected-geometry-2023/
Thanks, I asked them for sizing guide of R1088-D and R086-D, which I’m also considering.This is the first time I’m buying a road bike(and building it on my own), before I only had MTB so unfortunately there is not so much to compare with.
I’m also curious on what do you guys think about their integrated handlebars - they offered me HB068, HB088 or HBR07.
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@ujmo_ Hi, because you are new to road cycling, do not go with the bars that are integrated with a stem. Would suggest HB058 and a separate stem. This way it would be less costly if you need to change the stem and or handlebar. Not sure how easy it is for you but consider getting a bike fit. The fitter will then be able to recommend what frameset you need to get. Worse case get a frameset closest to your fit (not too big) and then make the adjustments (eg longer or shorter stem/handlebar
I have the 086D, and can tell you its a good pick, can't say about the 1088 but it was on my list. Went with 086 because the tifosi AURIGA DISC which clearly uses the same frameset has some good reviews
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I just got the frame delivered. Here are few pictures. I wonder if the cable hole in the fork(last picture) is normal this way or if I should contact Yishun about it. It isn’t smooth at all but I’m unsure if that’s expected with Chinese brands.
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I just got the frame delivered. Here are few pictures. I wonder if the cable hole in the fork(last picture) is normal this way or if I should contact Yishun about it. It isn’t smooth at all but I’m unsure if that’s expected with Chinese brands.
Contact them regarding that one. They are responsive on issues like that and would also gladly help you on how to fix it
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Any update on this frameset? What's the ride feel like?
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Hey guys, I finally got to build of this bike and I noticed that there might be a missing part under the fork bottom bearing. My question is if it is normal this way or if something is really missing?
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That looks normal. The fork has an integrated crown race.
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Oh, alright thanks! Another question - is it good to grease the bearing in the picture above also from the bottom/inner side?
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Oh, alright thanks! Another question - is it good to grease the bearing in the picture above also from the bottom/inner side?
Some people will say yes to give the bearing a little extra protection, other people will say no because grease can and will attack the epoxy in the carbon softening it over time.
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Oh, alright thanks! Another question - is it good to grease the bearing in the picture above also from the bottom/inner side?
I went down that rabbit hole yesterday. Having looked at a lot of videos, pretty much ALL modern builds I saw put bike grease on headset bearing seats (I think mostly for waterproofing?). Given how annoying it is to disassemble headsets these days, and how quickly you can get creaks if you ride in the rain (even once), i would say, cake that b1tch.
It's more contentious for PF BBs, but it seems that Wakos brake protector is the ultimate product to use, as per "ride of Japan" on YT, and apparently Cannondale in mechanics workshops (I think Australia), and cannondale basically invented creaking BBs with the PF BB30. And for us in Europe, Liqui Moly 3312 (made in Germany, cheap) seems to be a legit alternative. I haven't seen anyone saying it doesnt work. Both products apparently are a silicone based grease.
But people do fight over whether loctite is good or not (& if so, which, and which cure time, and how...), and if you believe Shimano you shouldn't use anything at all, and then there are those who put regular bike grease, or lithium grease, or copper grease.
Long story short: put grease on your headset bearings, and wakos / liqui moly 3312 on your PF BB. Liqui molly costs 10 eur: if it reduces the chances of a creak, it is money worth spending.
I bought that Moly thing yesterday, i plan to try it. I did an extended 600+W effort a few days ago and i (think i) heard a noise for the 1st time on my LT268, which sent me down that rabbit hole in the 1st place.
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It's more contentious for PF BBs, but it seems that Wakos brake protector is the ultimate product to use, as per "ride of Japan" on YT, and apparently Cannondale in mechanics workshops (I think Australia), and cannondale basically invented creaking BBs with the PF BB30. And for us in Europe, Liqui Moly 3312 (made in Germany, cheap) seems to be a legit alternative. I haven't seen anyone saying it doesnt work. Both products apparently are a silicone based grease.
But people do fight over whether loctite is good or not (& if so, which, and which cure time, and how...), and if you believe Shimano you shouldn't use anything at all, and then there are those who put regular bike grease, or lithium grease, or copper grease.
You don't mean grease between the bb and the carbon hole in the frame do you?
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https://youtu.be/q0XAvr5Qn1k?si=RBwsH1-CgnlypdXm&t=352
I do, it's the whole point of the rabbit hole. i guess you're in the camp of only morons would put any kind of grease there?
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https://youtu.be/q0XAvr5Qn1k?si=RBwsH1-CgnlypdXm&t=352
I do, it's the whole point of the rabbit hole. i guess you're in the camp of only morons would put any kind of grease there?
Sorry mate you said PF BBs in the post, I guess just a typo... That's a tf in the vid. I'm sure you already know this, but there is an alu insert which is pressfit and bonded into the carbon hole in the frame, which has threads on the inside, which the bb threads into. Yeah I'd use an nlgi00-2 grease or anti-seize for threaded bbs that tighten under load. I think anti-seize might make more sense here. Ones that don't tighten under load, I'd use threadlock, but that's hardly any these days.
Although, if it's a pf, like what you said, then retaining compound between the carbon and bb. Usually 641.
If yours creaks and is a pf and not tf, then you may wanna push it out and measure it up. If the hole is too small, you can hone it safely (takes about 30min to remove 0.01mm, so it's hard to overshoot it), if hole too big you can use 638 instead of 641 for retaining compound, as it'll fill a much bigger gap more betterererer.
Sometimes creaks can come from other stuff though, like chainring bolts being uncooperative, or just grit stuck between the crank arms.
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You lost me. tf, is that thread fit? in the video i call his BB a PF BB because the BB isn't hold by threads like BSA / T47: the interface between the BB & the frame is smooth --> i call that PF. There is a thread between 2 halves of the PF cups, but that thread doesn't make it a threaded BB the way BSA / T47 is.
I received the Liqui Moly 3312 today, precisely so i dont have to figure out which loctite product to use and during which phase of the moon it's going to work best and whether it cured with or without a load.
Now I'm just a peasant looking for easy solutions found by people who seem to know what they're talking about.
I've never measured BB holes because i dont have the tools to make them rounder anyway, touch wood, i hope i never have to.
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You lost me. tf, is that thread fit? in the video i call his BB a PF BB because the BB isn't hold by threads like BSA / T47: the interface between the BB & the frame is smooth --> i call that PF. There is a thread between 2 halves of the PF cups, but that thread doesn't make it a threaded BB the way BSA / T47 is.
I received the Liqui Moly 3312 today, precisely so i dont have to figure out which loctite product to use and during which phase of the moon it's going to work best and whether it cured with or without a load.
Now I'm just a peasant looking for easy solutions found by people who seem to know what they're talking about.
I've never measured BB holes because i dont have the tools to make them rounder anyway, touch wood, i hope i never have to.
My bad mate!!! Didn't watch it properly!
It's a pf, but it's a thread together pf. They're a little bit obscure and are kinda inferior in theory to a single piece bb, usually only used if the bb area is weirdly shaped or obstructed that you physically can't press a single piece bb in. Are you sure you have one of those?
For this type, can grease the threads, just make sure you don't get any of the surrounding carbon where the bb will seat inside the frame. Retaining compound on the usual parts where a regular pf bb seats inside carbon area.
For retaining compound you can use 641 compound and 7649 activator. If you can literally push any side in with your hand then the hole is oversized, so use 638 instead. It should be a tight interference fit, and not be able to push it in by hand.
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These guys use ASC for threads in thread together(thread fit) bottom bracket - https://youtu.be/84Ut53i17iQ?si=M2J55_MzgPmmvgRz&t=303 (https://youtu.be/84Ut53i17iQ?si=M2J55_MzgPmmvgRz&t=303)
I'm still unsure if I should use grease/asc/liqui moly 3312/nothing for Token Ninja BB cups. I'll ask also a mechanic in a bike shop when I go there to cut the steerer tube next week.
I went down that rabbit hole yesterday. Having looked at a lot of videos, pretty much ALL modern builds I saw put bike grease on headset bearing seats (I think mostly for waterproofing?). Given how annoying it is to disassemble headsets these days, and how quickly you can get creaks if you ride in the rain (even once), i would say, cake that b1tch.
Can you please share some video which you found, where grease is used on integrated crown race?
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The mechanic suggested to use grease(silicone or regular) and said that almost any type of grease would be better(not carbone paste or similar) than nothing at all for bottom bracket cups in this case.
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These guys use ASC for threads in thread together(thread fit) bottom bracket - https://youtu.be/84Ut53i17iQ?si=M2J55_MzgPmmvgRz&t=303 (https://youtu.be/84Ut53i17iQ?si=M2J55_MzgPmmvgRz&t=303)
I'm still unsure if I should use grease/asc/liqui moly 3312/nothing for Token Ninja BB cups. I'll ask also a mechanic in a bike shop when I go there to cut the steerer tube next week.
Can you please share some video which you found, where grease is used on integrated crown race?
Just to quote one that involves a ridiculously pretty girl, look up DREAM BUILD ROAD BIKE - Puck Moonen - Pinarello Dogma.
If you can get it for cheap, get liqui moly 3312 and put that on carbon to BB interface. That was the whole point of my earlier message. And regular bike grease on the thread that links the 2 bits together.
If you want to retrace the rabbit hole shenanigans, google liqui moly 3312 and or that japanese silicone grease thing (which you'll find on that YT video from rides of japan), you ll find the weight weenies thread on it, and you ll see the various points i've made (Cannondale mechanics being for me the most compelling argument).
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I think it’s a trade off. Silicone greases, wont attack the resin binder in bike frames (other greases wont either unless your bike is REALLY old as resins have evolved) but it’s only really going to help with assembly. Maybe it will marginally reduce the chance of damaging the frame on installation. It shouldn’t do much to the retention of the BB either.
For a straight up pressfit, grease or no grease, I would see what the BB maker recommends. If there isn’t one you can go either way. If it’s an alloy sleeve in carbon, I am probably using anti seize if noting is recommended. If it’s plastic. Eh. In a metal frame with a metal BB, always using the right anti seize. If there are gaps Loctite 641 or equivalent. 638 or equivalent is the last resort.
For a thread together, I would always grease the side that isnt pressed in because of how much movement it’s doing inside the shell, unless its metal on metal. Anti seize on the threads. Same deal with Loctite here.
For T47 or BSA, i am always using anti seize.
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Hey guys, probably a stupid question but what is this please?
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Hey guys, probably a stupid question but what is this please?
Seatpost clamp?
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Hey guys, probably a stupid question but what is this please?
To hold the seatpost. Place this piece inside the frame. The nut is visible on the outside