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Messages - Chiyou

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1
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: Today at 10:07:20 AM »
I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work.

Ha! I went through almost the exact same process as you did (head scratching, careful measuring, thoughts of drilling) a few months ago and ended up with an RS785 caliper as well (for some reason, my bike has one post mount and one flat mount). So far, the caliper is working well (as in, I haven't died yet). For the record, I am using eR9 and used a BH59 barb.

2
I believe you are on the right track. Whether an axle conversion kit consists of just end caps or end caps with an axle largely depends on the design of the hub. In other words, some hubs are designed in such a way that all you need to do is switch the end caps; other hubs will require more surgery.

Some hubs don't offer any conversion kits at all so you need to carefully research what options are available for the hub model you're interested in. I'd go with hubs from a well-known brand like the ones you mentioned as they'll offer a high likelihood of a successful conversion. As far as the conversion kits themselves are concerned, I am guessing the ones made by DT Swiss are pretty pricy so finding a generic AliExpress substitute is the preferred option.

3
My eR9 looks similar (sorry for the muck and grime).

4
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 06, 2024, 11:38:59 AM »
My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.

I don't have any experience with eGR specifically but in general rear derailleurs should be able to pivot around that 'L-TWOO Drive Systems' screw, yes. In practical terms, this is useful when you want to remove your (rear) wheel but the cassette starts jamming against the derailleur; with a free pivot, you can push the derailleur back, allowing for a clear path for the wheel to drop down. This may not be an issue with your particular frame, however - I guess it's easy to test.

5
250123 here as well - eR9 purchased from 80 Designer November 2023. No problems so far but only ~8k shifts as of yet (don't know the mileage), roughly 80/20% paved/unpaved roads; it survived a few minor downpours and subsequent washes.

6
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Workswell WCB R 326
« on: April 29, 2024, 10:35:46 AM »
I don't recall whether Yishun makes available their R068-D to the general public but size 59 is listed with a 597 stack and 404.4 reach.
https://www.yishunbike.com/product/r068-dperformance-road/

On the premium side, the Tavelo Attack has a 594 stack and 404 reach (size XXL).
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/tavelo-attack-disc-brake-road-bike-frameset/

7
Also when you buy the "no battery" option, does this mean you still get the battery holder and have to buy the batteries yourself, or do you have to buy a battery case?

You buy the batteries yourself, everything else comes with the kit (battery holder, charger, wires). Also, my shifters came with the coin cell batteries installed, no need to purchase these.

8
Another option may be to use a headset bearing with a 7mm width (height). If I understand the Ritchey diagram correctly, they specify a 8mm width bearing, so going with a 7mm one, your gap hopefully will be reduced to ~0.4mm.

Here is an example of a 40x51.9x7 bearing with 45° / 45° chamfers: https://www.wychbearings.co.uk/ACB519H7.html

If you think a 52mm one (rather than a 51.85 +- 0.05 one as specified by Ritchey) will fit, many more models are available; use the parametric search (specify OD as 52 and ID as 40 in the search parameters): https://www.wychbearings.co.uk/headset_bearings.html

9
Just in case it helps, there is also 80 Designer Store, which generally has better prices than LTWOO Official Store. For example, I'm seeing eR9 No Box No Battery for US$ 464 for at the former while US$514 at the latter. (I have no idea about their shipping policies though.)

10
For me, aliexpress.com links on this forum sometimes end up in a wonky redirect that doesn't work properly, while aliexpress.us links do what they're meant to do (it may be different based on your location).

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006457498617.html -> redirect that ends up on the AliExpress home page
https://aliexpress.us/item/1005006457498617.html -> gets me to the product page

11
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: First Road Bike Build
« on: December 28, 2023, 01:55:31 PM »
My bad! Yes, in that case there is no meaningful way to check whether the components are working correctly off the bike.

12
Hi, is anyone else having issues with trimming?

Yes, I seem to be in a similar situation as you are with slight rubbing in the middle sprockets when on the big front ring. When using the trim function (i.e. pressing the front shift button a second time), the front derailleur doesn't center on the chain and instead is positioned too far to one side.

And agreed, it should be possible for L-Twoo to improve this through software. There was a recent FD firmware update (v1.12 I believe) but that didn't fix anything for me. The app has a 'Single gear fine tuning' section for both the FD and the RD; while the RD tuning works great, I haven't been able to figure out how the equivalent FD option is meant to work. There is this weird cross-hair symbol in the bottom right corner of the app screen - no idea what that does.

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: First Road Bike Build
« on: December 18, 2023, 12:11:38 PM »
Yes, you can connect the front and rear derailleur to the battery, pair the shifters with the derailleurs and then test everything on the kitchen table. When pressing the shifter buttons, you should see the derailleurs jump into action.

14
Component Deals & Selection / Re: 1st time builder - frame checks
« on: November 14, 2023, 07:08:05 PM »
how would you check then?



A multi-contact bore gauge would be ideal but these cost as much as the average Chinese frame. The analog methods mentioned in the video are fiddly but more affordable. Lastly, a go/no-go gauge block is a relatively simple way of making sure your (pressfit) bottom bracket shell is sized correctly.

15
From what I know, the two main players are Senicx and ZRace as far as el cheapo cranks are concerned. The Senicx ones can be had for quite a bargain currently.

Senicx PR3 - 24mm axis - $58.39 minus $8 11.11 discount - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805631093003.html
Senicx PR2 - 29mm/DUB axis - $62.03 minus $12 discount - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805631095989.html

This seller only has 165/170/175mm crank arms; the 172.5mm version is available from other sellers.

Edit: the corresponding 1x versions are called GR3/GR2.

ZRace only offers a DUB crank, I believe. Here's a random link, other sellers may have better deals (also, this link includes a bottom bracket, which you may not want).

ZRace RX - 29mm/DUB axis - $93.15 minus $16 discount minus 2% coins if you have any - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800869512390.html

On the Shimano side, I'd look at Merlin Cycles (~$118 for the R7000/R7100 cranks, for example); free shipping and no tax if I'm not mistaken.
https://www.merlincycles.com/en-us/road-bike-chainsets-75285/?brand=shimano

Can you tell I was in the market for a crankset myself? I ended up buying the Senicx PR3 myself, but then again I don't have a sprint.

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