Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Bajker on January 05, 2021, 10:42:52 AM
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Posting this frame as well, 150mm travel, modern geo. Many new and interesting frames coming it seems.
Type: MTB FULL SUSPENSION AM
Material: CARBON
Headset: 1-1/2”* 1-1/2”ACR
TIRE: 29”*2.60”/27.5+*2.80”
Weave: UD
BB: BB92
Shock dimension: 205*60mm
Rear Hub: 148*12mm THRU AXLE
REAR TRAVEL: 150mm
FORK TRAVEL: 160mm
http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/134.html
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/247.html
(https://i.imgur.com/9OQkB7c.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/3W3IHkZ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/kDW234u.png)
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This one can be interesting also. 170 is to much but 150 is enought for enduro bike)
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Sadly for anyone lusting over this frame they don't have any release date or price set yet.
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Maybe by the time they actually start making it they will get rid of the kink in the top tube. It would be better without it.
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Linkage Check - Carbon frame from Flybike l Modern geometry and good kinematics? l FM1166
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2020/11/6-linkage-check-carbon-rahmen-von.html
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This is the 2D blueprint and the Quotation form they sent me yesterday. I think the numbers look pretty spot on for a fun Enduro/Trail bike. Seems like the kink in the top tube is atleast flattened out a bit :)
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$600 is decent.
How long did it take flybike to get back to you?
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$600 is decent.
How long did it take flybike to get back to you?
Yeah, for me living in Sweden the exchange rate on USD is good right now so good value here for sure.
They got back this morning, i sent them a message on Saturday I think,
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On carbonda: http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/134.html
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This is the 2D blueprint and the Quotation form they sent me yesterday. I think the numbers look pretty spot on for a fun Enduro/Trail bike. Seems like the kink in the top tube is atleast flattened out a bit :)
How you get these prices, wing always tell me 750$ :( is it only me?
Edit: ah its 50 pcs oops
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So did someone got one ? It looks interesting
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So did someone got one ?
I've ordered one from carbonda - Wing told me that expected shipping time is August
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I've ordered one from carbonda - Wing told me that expected shipping time is August
Can’t wait to see the build !
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I've ordered one from carbonda - Wing told me that expected shipping time is August
Can you share the deal details? (price, shipping etc.)
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Can you share the deal details? (price, shipping etc.)
$780 + $150 shipping to Kazakhstan (yes, today we have a problem with cheap shipping).
+ I've ordered custom paint (blue-purple chameleon) for $120
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$780 + $150 shipping to Kazakhstan (yes, today we have a problem with cheap shipping).
+ I've ordered custom paint (blue-purple chameleon) for $120
Thank you (i got the same offer except the shipping),
Tell me about it.. the shipping that is available for me is DHL: 260$ :'(, im trying now to maybe find a cheaper forwarder (wanted EMS but apparently they are down or something )
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+ I've ordered custom paint (blue-purple chameleon) for $120
Make sure you post pics. Let's see that chameleon paint in the sun!
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My frame is ready - should be shipped soon.
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My frame is ready - should be shipped soon.
Damn that’s a nice looking frame. Kinda regret going for the fs831 now instead of this!
Order process looks better also
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I am also waiting the 831, it's something completely new, this is positive and negative. I considered 1002 as alternative. Time will tell which one is the best ;D 8)
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(http://ixbt.photo/photo/117696/67286cuRD7aQxql/1429342w.jpg)
My 1002 build
more photos here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtHxZr8ACjmhg7kATvILytfKYfG8bw?e=ulsS3q
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(http://ixbt.photo/photo/117696/67286cuRD7aQxql/1429342w.jpg)
My 1002 build
more photos here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtHxZr8ACjmhg7kATvILytfKYfG8bw?e=ulsS3q
Wow, I really like the color scheme! how is this bike rides compared to other bikes?
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how is this bike rides compared to other bikes?
I never had such a long travel bike frame, only BXT-077 100mm FS (and bofore that banshee paradox with 120mm fork).
Steep uphills (especially with rocks) I thnk same or maybe better on 1002, as You have more forward position
For downhill of course 1002 is way more better
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That is a beautiful area to bike. Where is it?
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Anybody else build up this frame yet? Wondering what your experiences with it are. Considering getting this over the FS-AM831.
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I've ordered the frame but haven't received it yet. So can't tell the build or the ride quality.
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I've ordered the frame but haven't received it yet. So can't tell the build or the ride quality.
Please update when you do :)
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My frame is ready to ship :D - purple green chameleon, didn't receive the frame yet.. will post the final build once finished
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Is there any way to configure this frame through different mounting spacers to have the shock right side up? Not a big deal. But it might be easier to switch the shock platform lever if one wanted to if it were on top. I would definitely like to hear some more reviews of this bike.
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Any updates? Shredder?
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Is there any way to configure this frame through different mounting spacers to have the shock right side up? Not a big deal. But it might be easier to switch the shock platform lever if one wanted to if it were on top.
Only if You can make new rocker link - so it will be trunnion spacing on top (54mm spacing with M10 bolt hole) - now it is 30mm x 8mm bolt
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Any updates? Shredder?
Got it :D, I still have some work to do on it so I've been riding only in the city for now (when it will be trail ready i will post some nice pics with with the trail view)
So far it feels absolutely great,
but I'm not a bike expert and it is my first full-sus, modern geo bike,
I pedal with the shock open and don't really notice it (maybe i just set it to be too firm (~25% sag))
even tho i set my handle bar way to high it climbs better than my smaller hardtail prob because the sit, feels more inwards
the sitting position feels comfortable (i did around 90Km so far) but that can change when i will adjust the handle bar height
the only downside is my tires rolling resistance (2.5 and 2.4 DHF/DHR) which is a drag in the city :P
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I just order one of these for my partner. Pretty excited to see how it goes.
@Adilka what shock hardware did you have to buy? All I was told is 30 x 8mm which I assume is just the bushings for the non trunnion end. Did you need to buy any bolts?
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I just order one of these for my partner. Pretty excited to see how it goes.
@Adilka what shock hardware did you have to buy? All I was told is 30 x 8mm which I assume is just the bushings for the non trunnion end. Did you need to buy any bolts?
My shock (rockshox) already had this type of bushing - https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.shopify.com%2Fs%2Ffiles%2F1%2F2079%2F8541%2Fproducts%2FFox_Bushings_09596194-38d6-43af-a6d7-9e929ea59c86.jpg%3Fv%3D1571332205&f=1&nofb=1
all i needed was this mounting hardware (for DVO but it suppose to be cross compatible) https://www.ebay.com/itm/265294187627?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=565153263488&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
was a pain to insert into the bushing tho, so maybe buy one of these tools (didn't get the chance to try it tho) - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001318124909.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.52624c4dga6vSm (i think this tool is for inserting the bushing and not the mounting hardware into the bushing)
P.S - the ebay link uses FedEx as the shipping company, I REALLY recommend to avoid using them as the carrier!
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https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/diegoahh5,40953/setup,44911
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https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/diegoahh5,40953/setup,44911
Which color is that??
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Which color is that??
I don't know what kind of gray it is.
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(http://ixbt.photo/photo/117696/67286cuRD7aQxql/1429342w.jpg)
My 1002 build
more photos here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtHxZr8ACjmhg7kATvILytfKYfG8bw?e=ulsS3q
What fork is that? The adjusters/valves on the right leg look familiar but I can’t remember which brand that is.
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What fork is that? The adjusters/valves on the right leg look familiar but I can’t remember which brand that is.
Formula
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Hi, which size would you choose for 170cm Bodyheight?
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Hi, which size would you choose for 170cm Bodyheight?
Depends a bit on your proportions (whether you have long or short legs, prefer a long or short reach etc). If this was the FM1001/1156 135mm version we were talking about, that runs about a size small in terms of reach so you’d probably be between a medium and large.
Looking at the numbers, the 1002/1166 runs more or less similar to typical progressive enduro bike sizing so you’d probably be a Medium for this bike.
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Finally went to the trails so here some pictures of the final build, it better at everything compared to my hardtail (especially the climbs maybe because the 41mm offset fork) I wonder how it compares to other bikes, I need to ask people on the trail to give some features a try using my bike I think, someone climbed something that looked like a 80cm vertical rock on his bike..
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Any 1002 owners tried a coil shock? I like being able to see sag and travel use easily on an air shock, but the ~2.5 average leverage on the 1001/1002 seems like it would work well with coils.
A Marzocchi Bomber CR is less expensive as well as more reliably serviced by my local shops than my preferred air shock, a DVO Topaz…and either way, I’m probably looking at a Marzocchi Z1 fork for this build, either air or coil.
I want my first unbranded build to be lighter than my current 27.5 enduro bike (likely upwards of 38lbs, haven’t weighed it lately), but I also ride a lot of harsh stuff and have severe arthritis so coils are appealing.
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Any 1002 owners tried a coil shock? I like being able to see sag and travel use easily on an air shock, but the ~2.5 average leverage on the 1001/1002 seems like it would work well with coils.
A Marzocchi Bomber CR is less expensive as well as more reliably serviced by my local shops than my preferred air shock, a DVO Topaz…and either way, I’m probably looking at a Marzocchi Z1 fork for this build, either air or coil.
I want my first unbranded build to be lighter than my current 27.5 enduro bike (likely upwards of 38lbs, haven’t weighed it lately), but I also ride a lot of harsh stuff and have severe arthritis so coils are appealing.
The average leverage ratio doesn't tell you how well a coil shock would perform.
For a coil shock to work well, you typically need a rather progressive leverage curve since coils are perfectly linear (unless it's a progressive spring, dunno how progressive they really are though).
The 1001/1002 have rather linear leverage curves, the latter being slightly more progressive. But I would imagine that it's not enough for a coil shock.
For example the new Canyon Spectral Mullet has a coil and some testers say that it's not progressive enough. And that's waaay more progressive than either 1001 or 1002.
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Good point. I’m aware of the relation between spring and leverage curves, I was just trying to keep my question relatively short — and coming from a GT Force (avg leverage 2.79 and only moderately progressive), I was thinking of the fact that even the max 700lb coil felt too soft for me on that bike with the limited support the Bomber CR damper gives.
Looking at the kinematics graphs for these bikes, I thought maybe it was progressive enough given the low average, at least for a progressive coil rather than a regular linear one. But the context you gave made me look again and I definitely take your point. The dip near the end of travel in particular isn’t great for coils.
The average leverage also had me thinking of damping, as the main 185x55 air shock I have to spare is a DPX2 with standard Medium tune. That was overdamped for my Force (different models/years have shipped with both Low and Medium tunes), so I was thinking less leverage meant it would be even more overdamped for a 1001. But of course you reminded me that it’s not that straightforward, the curve matters here too.
I might just get a 1002 and a DVO Topaz for it — the same stock damping tune that helped my Force because it’s lighter than Fox or RS’ Mediums, and it’s very tunable for different spring curves — but I wanted to think through all the possibilities before I gave up on using one of my existing 185x55 shocks with a 1001.
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Good point. I’m aware of the relation between spring and leverage curves, I was just trying to keep my question relatively short — and coming from a GT Force (avg leverage 2.79 and only moderately progressive), I was thinking of the fact that even the max 700lb coil felt too soft for me on that bike with the limited support the Bomber CR damper gives.
Looking at the kinematics graphs for these bikes, I thought maybe it was progressive enough given the low average, at least for a progressive coil rather than a regular linear one. But the context you gave made me look again and I definitely take your point. The dip near the end of travel in particular isn’t great for coils.
The average leverage also had me thinking of damping, as the main 185x55 air shock I have to spare is a DPX2 with standard Medium tune. That was overdamped for my Force (different models/years have shipped with both Low and Medium tunes), so I was thinking less leverage meant it would be even more overdamped for a 1001. But of course you reminded me that it’s not that straightforward, the curve matters here too.
I might just get a 1002 and a DVO Topaz for it — the same stock damping tune that helped my Force because it’s lighter than Fox or RS’ Mediums, and it’s very tunable for different spring curves — but I wanted to think through all the possibilities before I gave up on using one of my existing 185x55 shocks with a 1001.
Ah, now I get your point. You're absolutely right, lower average lev ratio means you won't have the issue of not finding a spring that's hard enough.
Sadly, I think even a progressive coil spring won't help with a progression of less than 10% from SAG point... But maybe someone will start making custom upper links, that would be awesome :D
Not sure about the damping thing, but yeah, if it's already overdamped with more travel, then a lower average lev ratio and less travel will probably make it even worse.
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Wing sent through some photos of the paint job. Colour is RAL4011
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Did they give you a whole range of metallic paint color options? I haven’t seen any info posted here about that.
I just asked for a quote on their metallic RAL paint options. From what I can gather there’s 15 colours in total.
Got the track number today. I’d be impressed if I received it before xmas.
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Looking to buy my first Chinese frame and 99% sure I'm going to buy FM1002 in XL, I was wondering if anyone knew what the biggest dropper you could fit? would love to get 200mm drop but would still be happy with 180/175mm. Any help would be appreciated!
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Looking to buy my first Chinese frame and 99% sure I'm going to buy FM1002 in XL, I was wondering if anyone knew what the biggest dropper you could fit? would love to get 200mm drop but would still be happy with 180/175mm. Any help would be appreciated!
You could fit any dropper post, so long as your legs are long enough :D
The XL has a 470mm seat tube and a 220 max insertion as far as I know. All dropper posts with that much travel have longer max insertions, so they won't go in all the way. You'll have to take that into account.
If you tell me your saddle height (BB to middle of saddle clamp), I can do the math for you.
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You could fit any dropper post, so long as your legs are long enough :D
The XL has a 470mm seat tube and a 220 max insertion as far as I know. All dropper posts with that much travel have longer max insertions, so they won't go in all the way. You'll have to take that into account.
If you tell me your saddle height (BB to middle of saddle clamp), I can do the math for you.
Do have long legs not sure they are that long thought! haha.
From the middle of the bb to the seat clamp is 79cm on my current bike
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Do have long legs not sure they are that long thought! haha.
From the middle of the bb to the seat clamp is 79cm on my current bike
That should even work with a OneUp V2 210mm.
If my diagram is correct, you'll have about 330mm of space between saddle clamp and seat clamp. The 210mm OneUp V2 will stick out about 60mm and has a stack height of 33mm, so 320 - 60 - 33 = 227mm possible dropper travel. The OneUp is pretty compact though, so a different brand might give you a lot less.
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That should even work with a OneUp V2 210mm.
If my diagram is correct, you'll have about 330mm of space between saddle clamp and seat clamp. The 210mm OneUp V2 will stick out about 60mm and has a stack height of 33mm, so 320 - 60 - 33 = 227mm possible dropper travel. The OneUp is pretty compact though, so a different brand might give you a lot less.
Thanks for the help! I am looking at the PMW loam dropper that has a full insertion length of 290mm and 200mm of drop and I'm pretty sure it would just about be the right. I did the dropper size calculator on there website and it says 200mm drop will work but will hold out till I have the frame just to double check, the weather is Scotland is pretty bad for a few more months so in no rush to build up the frame and want everything to be spot on! Will be ordering the frame on Monday and very excited to get it.
Will keep everyone on here updated on the build :)
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On the lower trunnion shock mount, are there bearings or bushings there? The bolts look similar to other pivot points that contain bearings so I'm curious. The shock shouldn't move much in relation to the frame at the bottom mount, but will move some so I'm hoping they have done something to accommodate the movement.
I want to buy this frame as I'm in need of one, but I'm a bit skittish as the owner of an unrideable AM831...
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On the lower trunnion shock mount, are there bearings or bushings there? The bolts look similar to other pivot points that contain bearings so I'm curious. The shock shouldn't move much in relation to the frame at the bottom mount, but will move some so I'm hoping they have done something to accommodate the movement.
I want to buy this frame as I'm in need of one, but I'm a bit skittish as the owner of an unrideable AM831...
I haven't built up my AM831 frame yet as I just got it last week but yes, I'm not too happy about the flexing issues ATM.
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Linkage Check - Carbon frame from Flybike l Modern geometry and good kinematics? l FM1166
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2020/11/6-linkage-check-carbon-rahmen-von.html
Thanks for the kinematics analysis! This is a very cool frame. Geometry would work with 29 or mullet (29/27.5). For mullet I would put a 170mm fork to raise the BB. This will ride similar to the Specialized Stumpjumper EVO and based on the leverage curve (slight progressive then regressive), should run an air shock, unless you are not an aggressive rider at all and light.
It's almost there, but not quite for me, as I'm looking for something with more leverage, and flatter anti-squat. But cool to see a modern geometry that works as MX.
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I want to buy this frame as I'm in need of one, but I'm a bit skittish as the owner of an unrideable AM831...
What's the issue with the AM831 - isn't that one just a copy of the Santa Cruz Hightower?
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That 830 looks interesting too.
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That 830 looks interesting too.
It does, on paper, but as some of the folks affected by the 831 situation have pointed out, there’s an extra risk in trusting a company that would bring such a flawed product to market without adequate field testing, and then charge $200+shipping for a “fix” that itself still appears to be fatally flawed.
The 830 *looks* like it wouldn’t suffer from the same problems, but with no field testing, we can’t be sure…and a dual-link swingarm bike puts lots of strain on the links’ bearings so it wouldn’t take much of a design flaw to cause issues with flex, bearing damage etc.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m extremely tempted by the 830 myself and would rather have one than a relatively generic 4-bar with an upside down shock. But I’m doing an unbranded frame build because I’m on a tight budget — not because I have the leeway to try all over again with a second frame because the first was a lemon.
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Yeah agreed. There just is not enough good feedback on the completed bikes for many of these frames. If the chainstays and seatstays on these bikes are under engineered and flexy, going to a Horst link configuration connected to a vertical pivot link isn't necessarily going to fix it.
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On the lower trunnion shock mount, are there bearings or bushings there? The bolts look similar to other pivot points that contain bearings so I'm curious. The shock shouldn't move much in relation to the frame at the bottom mount, but will move some so I'm hoping they have done something to accommodate the movement.
I want to buy this frame as I'm in need of one, but I'm a bit skittish as the owner of an unrideable AM831...
Yeah it contains bearings I took a pic, I've no idea if they have done anything to accommodate that, any ideas on how to check?
1002 owners, have you been happy with your shock tunes? Many of you have DPX2s or Super Deluxes fitted that I’d assume are the stock aftermarket Medium tune….
If I go with a 1002 frame I want to get the suspension right on the first try, so I’m hoping to benefit from the experience of those who’ve already tested this on the trails. Any info related to shock tuning on the 1002 would be much appeciated!
I just put the rebound in the middle and the sag on around 25%, I don't really know what im doing and don't really feel the difference :P (for the fork I just used rockshox's site - https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/)
Yeah agreed. There just is not enough good feedback on the completed bikes for many of these frames. If the chainstays and seatstays on these bikes are under engineered and flexy, going to a Horst link configuration connected to a vertical pivot link isn't necessarily going to fix it.
If you want you can tellk me how to test these things and I will
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I guess what I would do is, on a completed bike, try grabbing the tire and rim from the top and flex them back and forth. Then do the same on a hard tail. Compare the side to side flex between the two. Maybe also compare the side to side flex with another suspension bike that you consider to have acceptable rear rigidness. This isnt the least bit scientific. But it will give you a good subjective comparison.
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I just order one of these for my partner. Pretty excited to see how it goes.
@Adilka what shock hardware did you have to buy? All I was told is 30 x 8mm which I assume is just the bushings for the non trunnion end. Did you need to buy any bolts?
I bought this one: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eyelet-bearing-kits/6mm-8mm-thru-bolts/NEEDLE-BEARING-30.html
Yes, You need only 30*8mm
Sorry for late reply!
Happy new year to all!
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I bought this one: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eyelet-bearing-kits/6mm-8mm-thru-bolts/NEEDLE-BEARING-30.html
Yes, You need only 30*8mm
Sorry for late reply!
Happy new year to all!
I got the same kit just yesterday, for my frame that hasn’t shipped yet. With the 1002’s upside down shock, I figure this ought to make a significant difference in plushness versus a bushing.
My plan has always been to build this bike gradually over the course of the winter so I can ride it in April when our trails start to dry out, but now that I’ve ordered the frame I find myself very impatient to find out exactly how everything works in the real world instead of having to imagine and guess.
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For anyone following along at home, the frame arrived just before Xmas (3wks postage to Australia). The finished quality of the frame and paint job is great. Paint near the bearing is generally good, only looks like one spot where the paint might flake off, time will tell. The only thing I don’t like is the top cover for the headset but you can’t really complain for $15. Overall I’m quite impressed with the whole experience.
I can’t comment on how the bike actually rides but my partner seems to like it. I’ll try take it out for a spin and offer some feedback in the future.
I’ll take some more photos when the dropper post arrives.
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For anyone following along at home, the frame arrived just before Xmas (3wks postage to Australia). The finished quality of the frame and paint job is great. Paint near the bearing is generally good, only looks like one spot where the paint might flake off, time will tell. The only thing I don’t like is the top cover for the headset but you can’t really complain for $15. Overall I’m quite impressed with the whole experience.
I can’t comment on how the bike actually rides but my partner seems to like it. I’ll try take it out for a spin and offer some feedback in the future.
I’ll take some more photos when the dropper post arrives.
I know we are "down under" but that bike really is gravity defying. ;)
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For anyone following along at home, the frame arrived just before Xmas (3wks postage to Australia). The finished quality of the frame and paint job is great. Paint near the bearing is generally good, only looks like one spot where the paint might flake off, time will tell. The only thing I don’t like is the top cover for the headset but you can’t really complain for $15. Overall I’m quite impressed with the whole experience.
I can’t comment on how the bike actually rides but my partner seems to like it. I’ll try take it out for a spin and offer some feedback in the future.
I’ll take some more photos when the dropper post arrives.
Nice to see someone running one with a Topaz! I’ll be able to offer some tuning tips once I’ve got my initial mixed wheel build done (March, probably). I already run DVO on my current bike and am really happy with the performance.
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I know we are "down under" but that bike really is gravity defying. ;)
Haha yeah not sure why that happened.
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Nice to see someone running one with a Topaz! I’ll be able to offer some tuning tips once I’ve got my initial mixed wheel build done (March, probably). I already run DVO on my current bike and am really happy with the performance.
I will be running Dvo Onyx and Topaz on my mixed wheel build! Will be good to have some to talk to about setups with, never been on Dvo rear shock before but love my Onyx.
My frame has arrived in the UK yesterday according to the tracking so build should be done early feb once I get seat post and bb ordered.
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I will be running Dvo Onyx and Topaz on my mixed wheel build! Will be good to have some to talk to about setups with, never been on Dvo rear shock before but love my Onyx.
My frame has arrived in the UK yesterday according to the tracking so build should be done early feb once I get seat post and bb ordered.
How long did it take after you ordered for your frame to ship? I ordered on Dec. 29th and am still waiting…
As for suspension, I think you’ll really like a Topaz with this bike. The ability to fine tune the very bottom and very top of the travel via the positive and negative spacers, plus being able to tune damper support (bladder pressure) separately from the air spring should be perfect for a bike with kinematics like this. I’m expecting to put 2-3 spacers in the positive to compensate for the regressive dip after 140mm of travel, and zero in the negative since the rest of the travel is nicely progressive. Bladder pressure should be able to stay low (175-180 I’d guess) since leverage is reasonable and the linkage has good anti-squat.
I’ll definitely be posting updates to those thoughts when I can actually test the bike out, but it’s going to be a slow build process so that might be a couple of months away.
I’m also going to test out over-stroking the frame, as I got a 205x65 Topaz. If 163mm travel is too much and the seat stay bridge hits the seat tube, I have a 2.5mm travel spacer to cut that to 156. Figured folks here will be interested to know how that works out.
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How long did it take after you ordered for your frame to ship? I ordered on Dec. 29th and am still waiting…
As for suspension, I think you’ll really like a Topaz with this bike. The ability to fine tune the very bottom and very top of the travel via the positive and negative spacers, plus being able to tune damper support (bladder pressure) separately from the air spring should be perfect for a bike with kinematics like this. I’m expecting to put 2-3 spacers in the positive to compensate for the regressive dip after 140mm of travel, and zero in the negative since the rest of the travel is nicely progressive. Bladder pressure should be able to stay low (175-180 I’d guess) since leverage is reasonable and the linkage has good anti-squat.
I’ll definitely be posting updates to those thoughts when I can actually test the bike out, but it’s going to be a slow build process so that might be a couple of months away.
I’m also going to test out over-stroking the frame, as I got a 205x65 Topaz. If 163mm travel is too much and the seat stay bridge hits the seat tube, I have a 2.5mm travel spacer to cut that to 156. Figured folks here will be interested to know how that works out.
I ordered my frame on the 23rd of Dec and an hour after I sent my previous message the frame tuned up! Mine was shipped with WXY international express.
I originally thought about putting 3 spacers in the negative to begin with so its good you are thinking the same thing, will play about with setting once I get the bike out on the trails. I quickly put my fork, shock and wheels on the bike today and did have a look at to see how close the seat bridge gets the the seat tube when bottomed out as I over stroked my last frame and did think it might be possible on this but I think 65mm will be to much and 62.5mm might be possible but will be close.
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That’s my frame build up, all went pretty smooth cable routing was a bit of a pain and the top shock bolt doesn’t look the best quality but will keep a close eye on it. Other than that all is good!
Was on Trek Remedy 2021 running mullet so have something good to compare it too.
Spec.
XL frame
Dvo Topaz 205x60
Dvo Onyx 170mm
Bontrager Carbon 29” front wheel
Sram hub on WTB i29 27.5” rear wheel (will match front in future, will keep 27.5)
Maxxis Assegai front
Maxxis DHR 2 rear
Peatys x 50to01 valves
Sram GX 12spd Drivechain
Sram x1 Carbon 32t cranks
DMR Vault
Sram Code R
OneUp dropper post 210mm drop
Bontrager Arvada saddle
Renthal Fatbar 800mm
Raceface Atlas Stem
Ergon GD1 grips
VHS Slapper tape 2.0
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Beautiful bike, can't wait to hear your impressions
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It came out so nice!
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That’s pretty much what mine will look like but with blue lowers and different parts, so this is nice to see!
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That’s my frame build up, all went pretty smooth cable routing was a bit of a pain and the top shock bolt doesn’t look the best quality but will keep a close eye on it. Other than that all is good!
I noticed you routed the shift and dropper cables on their same sides instead of crossing them over, is this how the factory routing is set up or was there some other reason? In other 1002 owners’ build pics that I’ve saved I see some have crossed their cables over and some haven’t.
As for the “lower” shock mount bolt on the front of the rocker arm (actually on top, of course, with the flipped shock), something about how it looks in pictures made me wonder if I’d be content to leave in place for long. I’d be curious about the exact specs of the bolt and if anyone has suggestions for a source to get an upgraded replacement.
One other question for you: with the mixed wheel setup, what’s your BB height? I can guess all the rough math for the 27.5 wheel and 170 Onyx (5mm longer than most forks) vs the Carbonda specs…but I wouldn’t mind knowing your exact number.
It might help me be more confident about running my own bike MX for a while rather than jumping straight to full 29.
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That's just my personal preference because I think it looks nicer than when they are crossed over, you can run them any way you would like.
I did have a quick look for a different shock bolt and this is exactly the same size but out of stock everywhere I have looked. https://www.plushhillcycles.co.uk/components/bike-frame-spare-parts/transition-bikes-shock-bolt-8mm-x-40mm__9245
The bb hight on mine is 343mm from the ground. This website is great for working out the geo https://madscientistmtb.com/bike-geometry-calculator/
Took the bike for its first ride at the weekend mainly to get the shock setup. First thing I noticed was the cable rattle in the downtube is loud! Will need to get some foam pipe for over the cables to sort that out. The headset that came with the frame started to creak near the end of the ride nothing obvious when I striped it down, put back together and it's gone.
As for the Topaz setup with in fully open I started at 200 PSI, sag is sitting about 25%, rebound 6 from closed, bladder pressure 185 PSI, positive chamber spacers 3 and negative spacers 0.
It felt okay on slower tech trails with drops but on higher speed and small chatter it felt a bit harsh. Was only using about 70% travel as well so removed 1 spacer from the positive chamber and changed the rebound to 5 from closed it was instantly better! Will maybe play around with the bladder PSI and rebound a bit more this weekend.
Mostly just pushed up the trail for the suspension setup but the small bit of climbing I did the pedal bob was pretty minimal even when in fully open on the shock.
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I might email BetterBolts and see if any of their existing Transition shock bolts are that size (their product pages don’t always specify size, just what bike/product they fit). Oil slick Ti would be a nice replacement, but matching head shapes might be important too.
As for shock tuning, with the 1002’s kinematics you probably want to run the bladder as low as possible, 170-175PSI, and only adjust it up if you see a clear reason. That’s what I run on my GT Force and it’s a bit higher leverage/less progressive. I think I’ll probably run one positive spacer on my Force this year, two on the 1002, and no negative spacers on either because they just make the top harsher and don’t change the sag point much unless you’re very close to max PSI.
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Massey:
Did you happen to weigh your XL frame? And out of curiosity, how tall are you? I'm 6'2" (187 cm) with 33.5" (85 cm) inseam and thinking the XL is correct but not sure. Tried asking Carbonda and they have no sizing suggestions other than test riding a bike which seemed strange...
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Hey All,
What is the best was to purchase the frame? Do we just email Carbonda via their site?
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I’ve been talking to BetterBolts and their 8x40mm Transition shock bolt should fit the 1001/1002….I’m going to order two, one in black and one in oil slick, so I can check for sure. Will let you know what the pricing is, and post pics when my frame arrives.
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Massey:
Did you happen to weigh your XL frame? And out of curiosity, how tall are you? I'm 6'2" (187 cm) with 33.5" (85 cm) inseam and thinking the XL is correct but not sure. Tried asking Carbonda and they have no sizing suggestions other than test riding a bike which seemed strange...
I didn't unfortunately, I even have anyway to weigh the whole bike annoyingly! Im also 6'2" my inseam is quite a bit longer at 90cm XL fits me great and would be the right size for you might just need a dropper with less drop.
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I’ve been talking to BetterBolts and their 8x40mm Transition shock bolt should fit the 1001/1002….I’m going to order two, one in black and one in oil slick, so I can check for sure. Will let you know what the pricing is, and post pics when my frame arrives.
That's good to know, might order one too just to be on the safe side.
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Massey:
Did you happen to weigh your XL frame? And out of curiosity, how tall are you? I'm 6'2" (187 cm) with 33.5" (85 cm) inseam and thinking the XL is correct but not sure. Tried asking Carbonda and they have no sizing suggestions other than test riding a bike which seemed strange...
i have nearly the same hight und inseam and wing told me that i can take a L size or a XL as well. to be on the safe side she said a bikefitting will be the best.
i ordered the L w/o fitting.
i compared the geometry with my actual Specialized enduro an think L will fit perfect.
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Cost for two titanium 8x40 shock bolts was $30 shipped. Not cheap for a couple of two piece bolts obviously, but for me the extra confidence and the color choices are worth it.
All you have to do to place a special order like this is to email them and ask for the 8x40 Transition shock bolt. They’ll send you an web invoice link to complete the order.
One of the first things I’ll do after my frame arrives and I’ve been able to check/grease the bearings is to mount the shock with the new bolts and take some pics of both the stand-out oil slick look and the stealth black.
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How much did you guys pay for the frame? Wing told me 795 + 35 for axle, headset and extra derailleur hanger
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How much did you guys pay for the frame? Wing told me 795 + 35 for axle, headset and extra derailleur hanger
The price went up to that on New Year’s Day (2022 western calendar). It was $750+parts last year, I was lucky enough to get my order in on Dec. 29th.
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My large frame arrived today in perfect condition, nicely packaged. I’ll start my own build thread soon but will have a few questions for the general thread first.
Starting with: I’d been planning to start with a solid post to get my height dialed before installing a dropper but am hesitant to remove the dropper cable guide.
Any suggestions on how to handle that? I was thinking about leaving it in place and placing the far end of the guide inside the solid post for now.
I won’t really be doing any real rides like that, just pedaling in the driveway to dial in the height —
And even that probably won’t happen for weeks, we’re pretty snowbound in Maine right now.
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So, as promised, I tested out different shock strokes and I’m pretty sure it’s not possible to over-stroke the FM1002 at all safely…65mm (163mm travel) definitely doesn’t work, the seatstay bridge hits the seat tube.
62.5 might technically be possible but the bridge is so close at 60mm that I didn’t want to chance it. Even if it worked, there would probably be issues with the rear tire buzzing the saddle/rider on a full 29er setup with a long dropper.
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My large frame arrived today in perfect condition, nicely packaged. I’ll start my own build thread soon but will have a few questions for the general thread first.
Starting with: I’d been planning to start with a solid post to get my height dialed before installing a dropper but am hesitant to remove the dropper cable guide.
Any suggestions on how to handle that? I was thinking about leaving it in place and placing the far end of the guide inside the solid post for now.
I won’t really be doing any real rides like that, just pedaling in the driveway to dial in the height —
And even that probably won’t happen for weeks, we’re pretty snowbound in Maine right now.
I have the park tool internal cable routing kit that made it easy but I don't think you would have to much trouble just pushing an outer cable down to the bb then guide it up the top tube if the bb and headset are out.
I had to pull the guide pipe out as it was all bent and could not even get an inner gear cable to pass through them. Had to take the rear end off to do the brake and gear cables.
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Since there’s no torque spec written on the shock bolt, what is everyone tightening it to? Since it’s in a full carbon rocker arm I’d imagine this is important.
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Can anyone who owns this frame tell me about how it climbs. I want to build an enduro-ish bike to take out to asheville but I live in charlotte and the trails are a lot less gnarly so Im wondering how this frame does on hard climbs and slow tech features.
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Can anyone who owns this frame tell me about how it climbs. I want to build an enduro-ish bike to take out to asheville but I live in charlotte and the trails are a lot less gnarly so Im wondering how this frame does on hard climbs and slow tech features.
My previous bikes have been Whyte s-150 (29"), Cube stereo 150 (29") and Trek remedy (29"/27.5"). The FM1002 climbs the best, pedal bob is minimal I only use the lock out when I'm on a long fire road climbs. With mine being setup mullet I need to watch for pedal strikes on tech climbs but if you are running full 29" that should not be an issue.
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Current state of my build.
Everything’s basically together, but I’m temporarily using a solid post to help get my saddle height dialed before installing a dropper to minimize the risk of unseating the cable housing later adjusting it.
Brakes still need some work and the chain isn’t on, but otherwise it’s pretty far through the build process now.
Parts:
DVO Onyx fork, 170mm travel
DVO Topaz T3 shock, 205x60 with RWC roller bearing and BetterBolts oil slick titanium shock bolt
Race Face Sixc 800x35mm bar, 35mm rise
ODI Rogue grips
Industry Nine A35 stem, 32mm length with BetterBolts oil slick titanium bolts
SDG Bel Air 3.0 saddle
29 front wheel - Industry Nine Hydra hub with WTB KOM
Tough i35 rim
27.5 rear wheel - Industry Nine Hydra/DT Swiss 521 (35mm internal)
XTR rotors
XT brakes, shifting, cassette and pedals
Truvativ Descendant cranks
Wheels Manufacturing BB30/DUB bottom bracket
Wolfpack Enduro 2.6 tires
VHS chainstay protector
Misc oil slick bolts
AllMountainStyle frame protection decal kit
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I’ve already ordered a 29 rear wheel and will probably end up using that but wanted to experiment with MX a little bit in the early spring.
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Very Nice!!
Which frame size and your body height?
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Very Nice!!
Which frame size and your body height?
I’m 6’ tall and it’s a Large.
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Nice looking build, cant wait to hear how it rides. Im pretty much set on building this frame this summer unless something better comes out.
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Nice looking build, cant wait to hear how it rides. Im pretty much set on building this frame this summer unless something better comes out.
It’s definitely one of the best “safe bets” out there. I would’ve liked a more sophisticated suspension system than a four-bar, but it has good kinematics (notably better than my 2020 GT Force in almost every area, particularly anti-squat) and seems well constructed. There’s nothing mysterious about the pivot hardware, cable routing etc….all very sensible. I can see why KHS and Sherpa, among others, are using the FM1001 and 1002.
I really would recommend it over any other long travel frame available that I’ve seen. I won’t be able to give proper ride reports until some time around mid-April most likely, but I will definitely share lots of detail when I can. I’m a big suspension geek and am pretty obsessive about getting everything just right.
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Brakes bled, chain installed, just need to align calipers and install dropper now.
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It’s definitely one of the best “safe bets” out there. I would’ve liked a more sophisticated suspension system than a four-bar, but it has good kinematics (notably better than my 2020 GT Force in almost every area, particularly anti-squat) and seems well constructed. There’s nothing mysterious about the pivot hardware, cable routing etc….all very sensible. I can see why KHS and Sherpa, among others, are using the FM1001 and 1002.
I really would recommend it over any other long travel frame available that I’ve seen. I won’t be able to give proper ride reports until some time around mid-April most likely, but I will definitely share lots of detail when I can. I’m a big suspension geek and am pretty obsessive about getting everything just right.
Do you think this is a better made frame than the FS 830 Pivot style frame? I am weighing all the possibilities right now. The FS830 and this FM1002 / FM1166 are both on the short list.
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Do you think this is a better made frame than the FS 830 Pivot style frame? I am weighing all the possibilities right now. The FS830 and this FM1002 / FM1166 are both on the short list.
It’s hard to say this early in the game, they’re both fairly new — the 830 in particular. A grand total of two members have built one, only one of them currently active.
I have to say that aesthetically and in terms of whether I trust the pivots/bearings to hold up under serious enduro type riding, the 1002 won out for me. I would have lived with a press fit bottom bracket but do still prefer threaded. And I felt more comfortable dealing with Carbonda than I suspect I would be with Haideli/Tideace.
A lot depends on how soon you want to do a build. If you need to have it in a couple of months or so, get a 1002. Otherwise there still might be time for other options to become available, or frames like the 830 to be more extensively tested by early adopters. But I needed an affordable test/spare bike to help me sort out in depth how I feel about 29ers and 29er frame MX vs my current 27.5 bike, and I needed it to be ready in time for spring.
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my build is done 8)
parts
complete xt drivetrain and 4piston breaks
fork RS lyrik ultimate
rearshock RS super deluxe ultimate coil
dropperpost one up 170mm
wheels unbrandet newmen 30mm w new dt swiss 350
tires maxxis minion dhr and dhf
cockpit truvativ descendant
sram grips
saddle sqlab 611
pedals one up composite
weight 14kg w/o tiresealent (i´ll do it tomorrow)
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Looks very, very good! I was original going for a black and red color scheme with a Marzocchi Z1 Coil — and this makes me wish I’d gone that route, but being able to change my 27.5 DVO Onyx to 29 with a $150 set of lowers (blue was all that was still available; all colors are sold out now) was too good of a deal to pass up.
Definitely keep us updated on how that coil shock works out for you, with the regressive dip at the bottom of the travel I’d be a little concerned about landing decent sized jumps…
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Any advice on how to make sure these wide mouthed cable grommets between the front triangle and chainstays sit where they’re supposed to and stay there? While running the internal routing they came out of place and it was almost impossible to get them to sit flush for some reason. I assembled the bike with them slightly imperfectly seated but now as I move the suspension to set up the shock (equalize the air chambers), they get yanked out of place.
I thought I had the two cables run more or less correctly, so I’m not sure disassembly and agonizing over the cables themselves would help anything. But I’m having a hell of a time pressing them back into place with any of the tools I have while the shock is disconnected and I have the linkage all the way compressed like this….and I worry that they’ll just come back out once the suspension moves again.
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I’ve been struggling with them long enough that the temptation to just rip them out and go without any is very strong, but then I’d be worried about dirt and water ingress….but frankly, even if they were working perfectly I’m not sure how much difference they’ll make anyway since they don’t create a very good seal even when you have the cables exactly straight on either side.
And I think mine are a little twisted in the front frame such that they want to exit through the middle of the opening rather than straight through the sides. That’s not necessarily something I think I can reliably change even if I did my cable routing all over again. What the cables do that deep in the frame isn’t easily visualized or controllable, even with a magnetic routing kit.
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The small inner flange has to sit inside the frame. I don't have these specific ones but the principal of rubber grommets is pretty much all the same. Start by putting it in on an angle and try to get the bottom inside flange inside the frame. I then bend the outer top flange back away from the frame and use something like a small flat bladed screw driver or "butter knife" to push the top inside flange in and past the frame thickness. In my experience it is almost never possible to do this with the cables through the grommet first particularly when access is as restricted as it is in that location.
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Frame is coming! Nothing too fancy, just gloss black.
Got the pictures from Wing yesterday.
With the reverse rear shock anyone knows if it cause shock fitment problem? I looking to put a Fox float X2 but I'm wondering if the air can will hit/interfere with the frame...
Cheers !
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Frame is coming! Nothing too fancy, just gloss black.
Got the pictures from Wing yesterday.
With the reverse rear shock anyone knows if it cause shock fitment problem? I looking to put a Fox float X2 but I'm wondering if the air can will hit/interfere with the frame...
Cheers !
The X2 doesn't fit. the problem is not the Air can, the problem is the reservoir...
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More or less final build - love this frame :)
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More or less final build - love this frame :)
Amazing color matching!
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my build is done 8)
parts
complete xt drivetrain and 4piston breaks
fork RS lyrik ultimate
rearshock RS super deluxe ultimate coil
dropperpost one up 170mm
wheels unbrandet newmen 30mm w new dt swiss 350
tires maxxis minion dhr and dhf
cockpit truvativ descendant
sram grips
saddle sqlab 611
pedals one up composite
weight 14kg w/o tiresealent (i´ll do it tomorrow)
How is the coil shock working on this? Been tempted to try one on mine but worried about bottom out support!
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Gentlemen
My ICAN P9 is in the market and I will buy one of these should I get it sold. Ive had it for 2.5 years and although I love it, I am quite convinced this frame quality is up there, and its just a bit more modern on all fronts.
Where did you buy from, and and can you guys please drop the email addresses of the folk you dealt with? I could go on the main website but speaking to the right person first up will save some time.
Thanks in advance!
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I had a response in less than 12 hours when I used the web form, so I doubt that'll take any longer than emailing.
I was working with Katie:
katietan@carbonda.com
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I put in the order for a Large, painted RAL 4010 (just like my FM936)
I am going for red and black accents on a magenta frame.
Was going to go for the FM1003, but the frame was an extra kilo (according to adam) and ~400 USD more (due to materials and R&D).
I've grabbed a 170mm 2021 Lyric Ultimate fork and 180mm dropper OneUp V2. Not sure what I will do for the rear, hoping to find a deal on a nice air shock.
Has anyone tried a progressive coil?
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I havent been able to get a response from carbonda. What is the latest price shipped to the US? Also where can we see what color options are available?
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I havent been able to get a response from carbonda. What is the latest price shipped to the US? Also where can we see what color options are available?
1090 for the frame (painted a single RAL color)
Here are the RAL options: https://www.ralcolor.com/
There are chameleon paint options for an extra 50.
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Here was the breakdown on my quote:
780USD for frame with standard matte finish
15USD for headset
15USD for rear axle
5USD for derailleur hanger(the frame comes with one derailleur hanger)
195USD by Air ,shipping time is about 7-15 days.
115USD for painting cost - 2 color gradient
I placed my order on 6/18, and it's scheduled to show up tomorrow (2-1/2 weeks since ordering).
I didn't end up buying the headset. I saw some comments regarding an FSA 55R, but based on the detailed headtube dims (52mm internal), it looks like this is the one I need.
https://storage.fsaeasybottombrackets.com/headset/pdf/130-0022000010.pdf
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/headset-spares/no-55r-1-5-558-acr
Can anyone confirm?
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$780 + $150 shipping to Kazakhstan (yes, today we have a problem with cheap shipping).
+ I've ordered custom paint (blue-purple chameleon) for $120
Are you still enjoying the bike? Is it holding up well to use? thanks.
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I didn't end up buying the headset. I saw some comments regarding an FSA 55R, but based on the detailed headtube dims (52mm internal), it looks like this is the one I need.
https://storage.fsaeasybottombrackets.com/headset/pdf/130-0022000010.pdf
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/headset-spares/no-55r-1-5-558-acr
Can anyone confirm?
Your links dont work for but that looks like the correct one
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558
The headset that Carbonda sells isn't bad. The only issues I had with it is the thin metal (steel???) shim started to rust. The top cap doesn't really seal so water can make its way in. Get the FSA headset but if in a pinch the Carbonda headset will get you by.
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Just FYI, my OEM Carbonda headset started creaking after about 100mi and by 200mi got pretty bad to the point where regreasing it didn’t help much.
I think the culprit was partly rinsing the bike…the top cap lets water in very easily and the OEM headset corrodes pretty quickly.
Haven’t had any problems at all with the FSA headset since installing it.
Next time I get a Carbonda frame I would just skip the OEM headset entirely and get an FSA from the beginning.
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That was the plan, but now I'm struggling to actually find one. That FSA headset is out of stock everywhere, and the 52mm upper as an IS is extremely uncommon. Cane Creek doesn't make one, Hope doesn't make one, Wolf Tooth doesn't make one. I could buy a different FSA headset to get the upper bearing and compression ring, but I still wouldn't have a dust seal that works (the one on the cupped FSA version of that headset has an OD that's too large). At this point I kind of wish I'd bought the carbonda headset for $15, because right now I've got nothing.
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I ended up ordering the headset from Carbonda just to have something - if nothing else it's a template for a replacement!
Based on comments here i expected it to be terrible. It doesn't look great but works so far and very similar to the one that came with my Airwolf which is absolutely fine after a year of hard riding.
Your easiest option may be to contact Carbonda again and get them to send out a headset.
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I've found a couple of options that should work, but honestly they're more of a bodge than a fix. FSA and Richey make top caps without cable holes, but neither are in stock anywhere. The FSA No. 69 SRS has the right dimensions and will work, but there's a cable hole in the top cap. I may just order that for the time being and then either 3d print a plug, leave it open, or fill with something else. I'm not going to be MTBing in the rain, and I can just pay attention and plug or cover it when washing.
I have an email out to FSA to see if they have any other options and/or if the 55R will be back in stock at some point. The only difference between the 69 SRS and the 55R is the compression ring, gasket, and top cap. The upper bearings and the lower bearings and crown race are the same. If I don't hear back tomorrow, I'm just going to order the No. 60 SRS so that I can get things assembled.
And I was wrong when I said the frame would show up yesterday. UPS started throwing incorrect estimated dates on things even when the frame was overseas.
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I found (shipping to Canada) that the UPS communication was horrible. BUT the frame did show up in 7 days from ordering (no paint). Hopefully yours is not far away.
My son has been riding his fm1002 for about a month. He absolutely loves it with a 170mm 36 on the front.
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I'm not too worried about when it shows up. I still have too many other parts in transit.
I did get a call back from FSA. The No.55R 1.5/558 is out of stock and they currently don't have any more on order, so there's a real possibility it's getting discontinued. They confirmed that the only other headset that would work is the No. 69 SRS. Bearings are a standard size, so they'll be available long term, but that dust cap might turn into solid gold.
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So I was really keen to get one of these as a upgrade to my P9. However I was just quoted $610 shipping to South Africa. WTF? Has anyone else been hit like that?
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Posting my build choices. For me, picking the gear is some of the most fun.
Hope it weighs under 31lb and climbs well, but we will see.
I wish more people posted how much there build was like this.
I did this build for 500 cheaper then my FM936, hope it rides as well.
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Love the idea. Bummed wiggle is out of that wheelset.
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Anyone have measurements of BB height with a mullet setup?
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Posting my build choices. For me, picking the gear is some of the most fun.
Hope it weighs under 31lb and climbs well, but we will see.
I wish more people posted how much there build was like this.
I did this build for 500 cheaper then my FM936, hope it rides as well.
I guess you imported some parts.
Price includes taxes?
I got the same wheelset, careful with the degreaser it damaged the finish of my wheels.
Bike cleaners should be fine or soapy water.
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https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr
Is this the headset?
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https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr
Is this the headset?
No. You won't be able to put standard spacers on top of that one.
EDIT - Don't use this link. It's the wrong one. Top cap is too big. The one without the hole still isn't available from FSA.
Apparently the one I was complaining about being out of stock a couple of weeks ago is back in stock. This is the one you want.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5
If you actually want to run cables through it (you probably don't), this is the one you want.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs
Also, there's an active coupon code that'll save you a few bucks.
SUMMER22
Posting my build choices. For me, picking the gear is some of the most fun.
Hope it weighs under 31lb and climbs well, but we will see.
I wish more people posted how much there build was like this.
I did this build for 500 cheaper then my FM936, hope it rides as well.
Your build looks very similar to mine except I went M6100 instead of M7100, and I ordered some Hunt wheels instead of the Nukeproofs. Same fork (different travel) and shock from the same sites.
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Final build (added purple mozzart bash + chainguide) + purple garbaruk oval:
As for headset - this one fits perfect:
upper: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset
lower: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-wcs-headset-underpart-1.5-is52/40
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Yesterday finnaly came my CC DB Air CS - can't tell much so far, but it fits frame perfectly (I saw pictures that Fox X2 dosen't fit):
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None of the headsets seem to be in stock. Any alternatives other than FSA and richey?
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Yesterday finnaly came my CC DB Air CS - can't tell much so far, but it fits frame perfectly (I saw pictures that Fox X2 dosen't fit):
Could you remember where you saw that Fox X2 didn't fit? I'm very curious about that...
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Could you remember where you saw that Fox X2 didn't fit? I'm very curious about that...
I tried it. It definitely not fit. The piggy bag will hit the frame when the shock is compressed. I tried the new 2022 version.
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Man, bike building is an addiction. I bought a 936 frame that I WAS going to make a budget XC racer reusing a lot of parts off my current bike, but that evolved into buying all new parts for it. So now I'm debating buying one of these frames to actually reuse the older parts and make something with more travel to better handle local trails..... jeez down the rabbit hole I go...
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Man, bike building is an addiction. I bought a 936 frame that I WAS going to make a budget XC racer reusing a lot of parts off my current bike, but that evolved into buying all new parts for it. So now I'm debating buying one of these frames to actually reuse the older parts and make something with more travel to better handle local trails..... jeez down the rabbit hole I go...
Know the feeling. My 936 feels great, but here in the alps dispite the modern geo in need of more travel when doing the trails and the parks. Back home I'm almost overbiked with 120mm, so confincing my wife I need a fm1002 is a bit hard.
A was thinking about the 1001, but I think it's to close to the fm936, don't you think?
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A was thinking about the 1001, but I think it's to close to the fm936, don't you think?
Thats exactly my reasoning... My current training bike is 130f/120r and where I'm at there's a bunch of trails that get real dodgy, real fast.. so I figured getting a new frame and swapping it to something with more travel will be safer.. then I have my XC-ish bike with the 936
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Man, bike building is an addiction. I bought a 936 frame that I WAS going to make a budget XC racer reusing a lot of parts off my current bike, but that evolved into buying all new parts for it. So now I'm debating buying one of these frames to actually reuse the older parts and make something with more travel to better handle local trails..... jeez down the rabbit hole I go...
So happy another has joined the club. I am building an FM909 from scratch little by little as I acquire the parts. And simultaneously swapping out various parts on hand to make an FM1002. So at least you are not alone in your excesses.
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As for headset - this one fits perfect:
upper: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset
lower: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-wcs-headset-underpart-1.5-is52/40
The headset is back in stock! I grabbed one. Thanks for the recommendation. Also grabbed a ergon seat for a decent discount. 50$ shipping is rough, luckily they sell so many things cheap.
Know the feeling. My 936 feels great, but here in the alps dispite the modern geo in need of more travel when doing the trails and the parks. Back home I'm almost overbiked with 120mm, so confincing my wife I need a fm1002 is a bit hard.
A was thinking about the 1001, but I think it's to close to the fm936, don't you think?
I think the FM1001 will be a lot more capable on downhill than the FM936 with it's higher BB, larger rear tire size, and slacker head angle. But why not go for a full enduro bike, right? I think the FM1002 has super modern geo and will probably pedal similarly to the FM1001 anyway.
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Just got my frame photos, hope it ships tonight.
Color was inspired by Neb's FM1001 (page 10), but glossy instead of matt
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Does anyone have a small that could measure max seatpost insertion? Thanks!
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Hi
Did anyone used this bike hard for some time and can give a verdict about the quality? Me and some friends bought FM 936 for 1 year ago and they have been holding on quite good, some problems with the bolts to the shock but noting major. But xc is one thing and enduro and bikepark is quite another game, do i dare to buy this bike for hardcore thrashing? :)
Regards
Mikael
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Hi
Did anyone used this bike hard for some time and can give a verdict about the quality? Me and some friends bought FM 936 for 1 year ago and they have been holding on quite good, some problems with the bolts to the shock but noting major. But xc is one thing and enduro and bikepark is quite another game, do i dare to buy this bike for hardcore thrashing? :)
Regards
Mikael
I did some bikeparking with it, but not more than jumps <1m and mostly bikeparking. I would buy an other bike if you're planning to go hardcore on a regular basis (Fm 1002 or so?)
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sorry if i was unclear, im not intending to do bikepark with the 936 frame. Im talking about the FM 1002 frame, Im thinking of buying one and build an enduro/bikebarkbike.
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Hi
Did anyone used this bike hard for some time and can give a verdict about the quality? Me and some friends bought FM 936 for 1 year ago and they have been holding on quite good, some problems with the bolts to the shock but noting major. But xc is one thing and enduro and bikepark is quite another game, do i dare to buy this bike for hardcore thrashing? :)
Regards
Mikael
I think its a little bit too early to tell, but so far everything is looking good. I've been riding my SL FM936 as a trial bike for two years and its tough. I've taken it on downhill trails and super technical trails. I bought a FM1002 as meaty trail bike that will handle that terrain better. For durability, you probably only need to worry about crashing anyway.
I bet the FM1003 takes abuse better. It's a beefier bike, but also more expensive and heavier.
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Hi
Did anyone used this bike hard for some time and can give a verdict about the quality? Me and some friends bought FM 936 for 1 year ago and they have been holding on quite good, some problems with the bolts to the shock but noting major. But xc is one thing and enduro and bikepark is quite another game, do i dare to buy this bike for hardcore thrashing? :)
Regards
Mikael
I have been riding mine since Jan, did a national downhill race on it and a good amount of enduro riding with no issues! Just getting back in the bike after a broken wrist so not been used as much as I would of liked but frame is snowing no cracks, bearing are still good and even the stock headset is still running smooth. I could not be happier with the frame considering the price, I would recommend a shock that ramps up a decent amount or like on my Dvo has adjustable progression cause the frame in pretty linear.
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My setup at the moment, minus the mud tyres! Will upgrade the drive chain for next year as its off my last bike, thinking AXS as less cables is a plus for me.
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Looking good. I have an FM 1002 to post in a week or so when the last of the parts arrive.
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I am wondering what shock spacers do I need in order to install a Rock Shox trunnion mount shock on this frame?
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The shock bolt is 8x40mm, and you need bushings or needle bearings to fit 8x30.
I went with the RWC needle bearing kit since the eyelet end is the one that rotates on the FM1002 and 1001. So far it’s been great.
If you want to run bushings I’d suggest pressing out the metal ring that RS puts in their eyelets (for use with their full metal bushings) and running Fox DU polymer bushings.
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Thanks. The bearings look like the way to go.
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Any advice on how to make sure these wide mouthed cable grommets between the front triangle and chainstays sit where they’re supposed to and stay there? While running the internal routing they came out of place and it was almost impossible to get them to sit flush for some reason. I assembled the bike with them slightly imperfectly seated but now as I move the suspension to set up the shock (equalize the air chambers), they get yanked out of place.
I thought I had the two cables run more or less correctly, so I’m not sure disassembly and agonizing over the cables themselves would help anything. But I’m having a hell of a time pressing them back into place with any of the tools I have while the shock is disconnected and I have the linkage all the way compressed like this….and I worry that they’ll just come back out once the suspension moves again.
I’ve been struggling with them long enough that the temptation to just rip them out and go without any is very strong, but then I’d be worried about dirt and water ingress….but frankly, even if they were working perfectly I’m not sure how much difference they’ll make anyway since they don’t create a very good seal even when you have the cables exactly straight on either side.
And I think mine are a little twisted in the front frame such that they want to exit through the middle of the opening rather than straight through the sides. That’s not necessarily something I think I can reliably change even if I did my cable routing all over again. What the cables do that deep in the frame isn’t easily visualized or controllable, even with a magnetic routing kit.
My grommets popped out while cable routing. I want the front triangle grommet to work, but everytime the rear traingle moves to the fully compressed position, the cable housing pulls it back out. It's hell, perhaps its because my Magura MT5 brakeline is ~6mm.
I don't care about the rear triangle grommet, since the pivot lets water in anyway.
Edit: I finally got the front triangle grommet to stay, by reseating it a million times. We will see in riding makes it pop out. took out the rear triangle grommet to use a spare if the front one gets lost.
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So I've got my frame and started playing with it. My paint was chipped on arrival but I got refunded for it. At first I thought the carbon work was terrible when I saw these flakes in the frame, but then I realized I could see through it. Adam identified it as a gas bag that should have been removed. The carbon actually seems like it's mostly perfect.
Notes:
- Nothing was torqued to spec.
- Almost completely dry linkage, so I poly lubed everything.
- Do the all cable housing routing before installing the shock, its easiest to get perfect when the triangles are separated. I wish I had done it while lubricating.
- Paint is much thinner than on my FM936 SL frame and it's not sticking to the primer well. Maybe it's the color, but I've already chipped a bunch around the linkage. Although its supposed to be glossy, a few spots don't feel smooth. I was refunded 40$ for the paint, which I think is fair.
Here are some pictures of the carbon, gas bag in the frame, and paint damage I was refunded for.
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I really should’ve just broken down my 1002 linkage when I got it in January and greased everything.
I didn’t expect to be riding it more than my branded enduro bike!
At this point, over 400 high intensity miles in…I think I probably ought to just replace the whole set at the end of the season (or when they start to give me any real trouble, which hasn’t happened yet). It’s tempting to spend Enduro Max money, but I think anything pivot specific like that will do. The current shells have gotten noticeably rusted — likely superficial, but obviously you don’t like to see it anyway.
And it’s not like I’ve been riding a lot of wet or mud, I just rinse off my bike occasionally and sometimes have to drive home from the mountains in a rain storm with the bike on a hitch rack.
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At first I thought the carbon work was terrible when I saw these flakes in the frame, but then I realized I could see through it. Adam identified it as a gas bag that should have been removed. The carbon actually seems like it's mostly perfect.
Holy crap, I would have been freaking out.... but thats also why I pay via paypal to cover my ass.
That first pic though the carbon looks amazing. Did you end up digging out the bag or just leaving it in there?
and almost everybody has mentioned the poor assembly, but if you gotta save money somewhere, I'd rather it be dry pivots and untorqued bolts than the layup quality
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Holy crap, I would have been freaking out.... but thats also why I pay via paypal to cover my ass.
That first pic though the carbon looks amazing. Did you end up digging out the bag or just leaving it in there?
and almost everybody has mentioned the poor assembly, but if you gotta save money somewhere, I'd rather it be dry pivots and untorqued bolts than the layup quality
I got it out :)
Now that area looks similar to the first pic.
I used a metal rod to push it down until I could rip it out through bottom bracket cup.
Yeah, I am glad the carbon quality seems good and none of the parts are missing.
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So I've got my frame and started playing with it. My paint was chipped on arrival but I got refunded for it. At first I thought the carbon work was terrible when I saw these flakes in the frame, but then I realized I could see through it. Adam identified it as a gas bag that should have been removed. The carbon actually seems like it's mostly perfect.
Notes:
- Nothing was torqued to spec.
- Almost completely dry linkage, so I poly lubed everything.
- Do the all cable housing routing before installing the shock, its easiest to get perfect when the triangles are separated. I wish I had done it while lubricating.
- Paint is much thinner than on my FM936 SL frame and it's not sticking to the primer well. Maybe it's the color, but I've already chipped a bunch around the linkage. Although its supposed to be glossy, a few spots don't feel smooth. I was refunded 40$ for the paint, which I think is fair.
Here are some pictures of the carbon, gas bag in the frame, and paint damage I was refunded for.
Any chance you noted what bearings are being used?
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It was love at first ride.
This is my first enduro frame, all my other bikes have been XC frames spec'd for trial.
I took the newly finished FM1002 on a technical trail with jagged exposed rock gardens, sizeable rock features and lots of ups and downs. This frame is incredibly capable on the down hills. The 170mm lyrik feels supple over rough terrain. The 150mm travel in the back cushions large drops enough to make them feel comfortable. It's only my first ride and already my confidence is growing too much. It climbs like a goat too. My Assegai/Dissector wheel combo has more rolling resistance than the XC race tires on my FM936 and the bike is about 5 lb heavier, but the higher bottom bracket, large travel, and crazy grip make it a more capable climber than my FM936. I climbed features on my first try that I've never been able to climb on my FM936. The pedal bob is minimal in the rear and non-existent in the front.
One potential downside is that the increased weight and soft slack fork makes it easier to get stopped by rocks when you don't have momentum, so it can be difficult to continue a climb when starting up in a rock garden.
Bike is about 31.5 lbs (14.3 kg) as shown.
Any chance you noted what bearings are being used?
Sorry, I did not. How would you identify them? Calipers?
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Any tips on doing the internal routing?
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Sorry, I did not. How would you identify them? Calipers?
No worries, thought I would ask. The part number will be on the rubber seal. You will see something like 6801 LLC.
Love the color of your bike! The orange and red look awesome!
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Any tips on doing the internal routing?
Remove the rear triangle, and work rear to front
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The shock bolt is 8x40mm, and you need bushings or needle bearings to fit 8x30.
I went with the RWC needle bearing kit since the eyelet end is the one that rotates on the FM1002 and 1001. So far it’s been great.
If you want to run bushings I’d suggest pressing out the metal ring that RS puts in their eyelets (for use with their full metal bushings) and running Fox DU polymer bushings.
I ordered an 8x30 bearing kit. After pressing them in I realize that the FM1002 stainless steel spacer bushing is for a larger than 8mm inside diameter. Closer to 9mm inside diameter. Bushing is 12mm outside, 8.02 inside. Do I get a different bushing or a different bearing to make this work? Or just go to the hardware store and find a plastic bushing that I can grind down to fake it?
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I ordered an 8x30 bearing kit. After pressing them in I realize that the FM1002 stainless steel spacer bushing is for a larger than 8mm inside diameter. Closer to 9mm inside diameter. Bushing is 12mm outside, 8.02 inside. Do I get a different bushing or a different bearing to make this work? Or just go to the hardware store and find a plastic bushing that I can grind down to fake it?
As I understand your 8x30 bushing/bearing kit fits fine as it is but hardware required is 8x40 so additional 5mm spacers are required each side. However supplied spacers are internally larger than your 8mm bolt diameter.
I would say as long as spacers are laterally tight, there should be no problem.
Of course your 8x30 bushing kit should support the slightly improper spacers.
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As I understand your 8x30 bushing/bearing kit fits fine as it is but hardware required is 8x40 so additional 5mm spacers are required each side. However supplied spacers are internally larger than your 8mm bolt diameter.
I would say as long as spacers are laterally tight, there should be no problem.
Of course your 8x30 bushing kit should support the slightly improper spacers.
I was under the impression that the bolt was 8x40 so that it would clear 30mm for shock and bushing/bearing, with 5mm of frame/pivot on each side. Is that not the case?
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I was under the impression that the bolt was 8x40 so that it would clear 30mm for shock and bushing/bearing, with 5mm of frame/pivot on each side. Is that not the case?
That is correct. So 8x30 works fine with no mods.
I've taken the bike on a few more rides. Directional downhill trails and bike park laps.
This bike climbs perfectly in the larger gears, but some efficiency is lost when climbing in smaller gears. On my FM936, it is much easier to carry speed up hill and continue climbing in a smaller gear. The FM1002 is still much more capable while in a larger gear on steep technical climbs and maintains superb grip. In the future, I will try to always climb slower in a larger gear.
I wonder if the FM1003 would be a stronger climber. It's suspension platform looks similar to the CBF linkage on the Revel Rail.
This bike kills it on the bike park jumps and I'm looking forward to riding it at a resort.
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That is correct. So 8x30 works fine with no mods.
I've taken the bike on a few more rides. Directional downhill trails and bike park laps.
This bike climbs perfectly in the larger gears, but some efficiency is lost when climbing in smaller gears. On my FM936, it is much easier to carry speed up hill and continue climbing in a smaller gear. The FM1002 is still much more capable while in a larger gear on steep technical climbs and maintains superb grip. In the future, I will try to always climb slower in a larger gear.
I wonder if the FM1003 would be a stronger climber. It's suspension platform looks similar to the CBF linkage on the Revel Rail.
This bike kills it on the bike park jumps and I'm looking forward to riding it at a resort.
I was hoping for a much beavier 936 with ok climbing capabilities for big days in the saddle... Or is still good for climbing an our or so uphill?
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It's very good for all climbing when pedaling the larger gears. Feels very efficient and has great grip. As the gears get smaller, more efficiency is lost on the uphills. The same is true for the FM936, just to a different degree.
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The shock bolt is 8x40mm, and you need bushings or needle bearings to fit 8x30.
I went with the RWC needle bearing kit since the eyelet end is the one that rotates on the FM1002 and 1001. So far it’s been great.
If you want to run bushings I’d suggest pressing out the metal ring that RS puts in their eyelets (for use with their full metal bushings) and running Fox DU polymer bushings.
I went with this. "Fox Racing Shox Shock Bearing Assembly Black, 8mm x 30mm" It gave me some trouble. Since the inside hole diameter was closer to 9mm. And the FM1002 bolt was 8mm x 40mm.
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It's very good for all climbing when pedaling the larger gears. Feels very efficient and has great grip. As the gears get smaller, more efficiency is lost on the uphills. The same is true for the FM936, just to a different degree.
Thanks for your info. Just want a bike next to the 936, not overlapping to much.
Waiting for Adam for a nice offer with a new rear for my 936 :'(
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I went with this. "Fox Racing Shox Shock Bearing Assembly Black, 8mm x 30mm" It gave me some trouble. Since the inside hole diameter was closer to 9mm. And the FM1002 bolt was 8mm x 40mm.
Yeah, I almost got one of those at first but went with the RWC needle bearing kit after reading about various problems with the Fox bearings.
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Yeah, I almost got one of those at first but went with the RWC needle bearing kit after reading about various problems with the Fox bearings.
I wish I had known. I was pairing it up to a Rock Shox Ultimate. It took some doing to make it all fit together.
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Thanks for your info. Just want a bike next to the 936, not overlapping to much.
Waiting for Adam for a nice offer with a new rear for my 936 :'(
After couple of emails with Adam, I'm now waiting on a size medium Fm1002! 8)
Hard to choose which shock...dvo topaz, rs super deluxe, fox or manitou or even a sr suntour triair3. Any Ideas?
Front will be 160mm lyric or dvo diamond I think if I could get it a bit cheap. Fox 36 grip2 would be great but to expensive.
Rest will be slx drivetrail I think wit 4pots slx or so brakes. Already got 30iw Nextie AM carbon wheels.
Stoked ;D
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After couple of emails with Adam, I'm now waiting on a size medium Fm1002! 8)
Hard to choose which shock...dvo topaz, rs super deluxe, fox or manitou or even a sr suntour triair3. Any Ideas?
Front will be 160mm lyric or dvo diamond I think if I could get it a bit cheap. Fox 36 grip2 would be great but to expensive.
Rest will be slx drivetrail I think wit 4pots slx or so brakes. Already got 30iw Nextie AM carbon wheels.
Stoked ;D
Personally I’d suggest DVO, partly because the Topaz is great at working well with all sorts of different kinematics…but Suntour’s high end models are similarly good — just not as “adaptive” as DVO’s fairly unique damper. DVO also has a very affordable factory custom tuning service and you can get 15% off with code REMY15 (Remy Metallier’s code seems to just work, permanently, for everything from their site).
With the discount it’s really hard to beat the price-performance ratio of DVO.
I think the 1002’s kinematic is decent for most stock tunes, but I’ve had a lot of frustration getting the past 5+ years’ Fox and RS shocks to work the way I want them to; Fox is almost always too harsh and RS too mushy/unsupportive. RS’ new spring backed IFP “Ultimate” dampers may be better at this, I haven’t tried them yet. I do like the fact that they’re silent though. Fox in particular is too noisy, especially their forks.
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After couple of emails with Adam, I'm now waiting on a size medium Fm1002! 8)
Hard to choose which shock...dvo topaz, rs super deluxe, fox or manitou or even a sr suntour triair3. Any Ideas?
Front will be 160mm lyric or dvo diamond I think if I could get it a bit cheap. Fox 36 grip2 would be great but to expensive.
Rest will be slx drivetrail I think wit 4pots slx or so brakes. Already got 30iw Nextie AM carbon wheels.
Stoked ;D
A Lyrik is certainly lighter than most DVO forks, and if you’re getting the new 2022 IFP damper Lyrik Ultimate that’s probably a very strong choice. DVO forks are a little heavy and definitely quirky in the long run when you have to service them — a lot of shops just don’t bother learning anything about their unique elements (OTT coil negative spring, seals and damper like different fluids than other forks and can swell up if you use the wrong kind).
You can always send their products back to the mothership for service but their past quick turnarounds have ballooned to the point (~2 months last I heard, was about six weeks for me last fall) where if you need something during riding season you’re better off sending it to an independent suspension specialist like Gearwork.
So if I were you, and it’s in the budget, I’d go with a Topaz and a 2022 Lyrik Ultimate or matching Ultimate-level Rockshox on both ends.
Oh, and BTW you can use any 205mm Topaz…they’re all the same shock just with travel limiting spacers in the top of the inner air can. I bought a 205x65 with no spacer. All you need is the 5mm, and although not always in stock at the DVO web site they’re almost always possible to find somewhere.
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A Lyrik is certainly lighter than most DVO forks, and if you’re getting the new 2022 IFP damper Lyrik Ultimate that’s probably a very strong choice. DVO forks are a little heavy and definitely quirky in the long run when you have to service them — a lot of shops just don’t bother learning anything about their unique elements (OTT coil negative spring, seals and damper like different fluids than other forks and can swell up if you use the wrong kind).
You can always send their products back to the mothership for service but their past quick turnarounds have ballooned to the point (~2 months last I heard, was about six weeks for me last fall) where if you need something during riding season you’re better off sending it to an independent suspension specialist like Gearwork.
So if I were you, and it’s in the budget, I’d go with a Topaz and a 2022 Lyrik Ultimate or matching Ultimate-level Rockshox on both ends.
Oh, and BTW you can use any 205mm Topaz…they’re all the same shock just with travel limiting spacers in the top of the inner air can. I bought a 205x65 with no spacer. All you need is the 5mm, and although not always in stock at the DVO web site they’re almost always possible to find somewhere.
Thanks for your reply!
I do like the dvo's because of their easy service and if they work good damping.
But haven't got much luck with my sapphire. First one, there was an issue with to much play, so got a new one. Now After two years the bladder/damper is broken and need to be fixed by cosmic sports in Germany (live in the Netherlands btw).
Will see if I find a good priced one..or a lyrik.
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Thanks for your reply!
I do like the dvo's because of their easy service and if they work good damping.
But haven't got much luck with my sapphire. First one, there was an issue with to much play, so got a new one. Now After two years the bladder/damper is broken and need to be fixed by cosmic sports in Germany (live in the Netherlands btw).
Will see if I find a good priced one..or a lyrik.
Check out Backcountry. They are selling the Rockshox 2022 models for a pretty good price right now.
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I'm happy with Cane Creek DBAir CS on my 1002. In case some one is interested - decided to sell my Fox DPX2
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I took my FM1002 out to a large lift service bike park for 6 hours of solid riding. Did a little less than 15000ft (~4.5 km) of vertical/elevation. It was my first time at a life service bike park and it was absolutely amazing.
The frame felt perfectly at home on both the flowy and technical downhill trails. I did end up making quite a few adjustments over the day and I got a really good feel for the bike. Halfway through the day, all the adjustments left me with a completely dialed bike. My own skill was the only limiting factor.
Got lots of compliments on the frame as well, which is always nice.
If I could build it again:
- I wish I had 35mm carbon bars instead of 31.8mm bars. My bars would flex a lot, way before my fork would flex. Glad I didn't get alloy bars. I keep hearing good things about OneUp bars.
- I do see how a 38mm stanchion fork would feel stiffer and more planted on the downhill but, the 170mm Lyrik Ultimate still plows over anything and performs extremely well. People with the 38 forks seems to have a more plush experience
- I also need bigger grips, the PNW grips are too skimpy.
- I wish I had clipless platform pedals, like the Crankbrothers Mallet E
- The DPX2 Rear shock is great, but I am curious if a Cane Creek DBAir CS would have better small bump compliance
On the negative side,
- The paint isn't holding up nearly as wells as my FM936's paint. It looks like the grey primer and orange color paint didn't fuse very well. Some spots are better than others. In the end, painting is highly skill dependent and I shouldn't expect more the for the price.
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DPX2 is definitely a harsh shock; I’ve tried almost everything out there and it’s one of the worst on that score. DBair would be an upgrade but IMHO you’d be hard pressed to beat out a DVO Topaz, particularly a Topaz Gen 3 with one of their $100 custom tunes, for that magic combo of support and small bump performance.
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DPX2 is definitely a harsh shock; I’ve tried almost everything out there and it’s one of the worst on that score. DBair would be an upgrade but IMHO you’d be hard pressed to beat out a DVO Topaz, particularly a Topaz Gen 3 with one of their $100 custom tunes, for that magic combo of support and small bump performance.
Yeah the small bump compliance on the DPX2 is bad. Honestly the lyrik's small bump performance isn't very good either. Still, both are very supportive, big-medium drops feel plush while bumpy green trails feel shaky.
If I was going to fix the small bump compliance I would probably swap out both the front and rear shocks.
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Yeah the small bump compliance on the DPX2 is bad. Honestly the lyrik's small bump performance isn't very good either. Still both a very supportive, big drops feel plush while bumpy green trails feel shakey.
If I was going to fix the small bump compliance I would probably swap out both the front and rear shocks.
According to serveral reviews the lyric should be fine for small bump compliance, but needs some tweaking. Adding some tokens and lowering pressure can help with small bump, but could also make the fork more progressive.
Not tried myself, because havent't got the yet nor the fork.
Good luck.
Ps alternatives with excellent small bumb: the new fox 36 and offcource dvo diamond or onyx
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According to serveral reviews the lyric should be fine for small bump compliance, but needs some tweaking. Adding some tokens and lowering pressure can help with small bump, but could also make the fork more progressive.
Not tried myself, because havent't got the yet nor the fork.
Good luck.
Ps alternatives with excellent small bumb: the new fox 36 and offcource dvo diamond or onyx
You're right. It's a really great fork and the small bump compliance is better than my fox 34. I definitely should do more adjustments to make it more plush.
The riders I've talked to who have made the switch to a Zeb or Fox 38 say that it is noticeably more plush. If I was going make my rear suspension more plush with a DBair, I would probably want to upgrade the front as well to give the bike a more balanced, plush all around, feel.
Here is a review that also takes issue with the small bump compliance:
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/forks/suspension-forks/2023-rockshox-lyrik-ultimate-review/
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You're right. It's a really great fork and the small bump compliance is better than my fox 34. I definitely should do more adjustments to make it more plush.
The riders I've talked to who have made the switch to a Zeb or Fox 38 say that it is noticeably more plush. If I was going make my rear suspension more plush with a DBair, I would probably want to upgrade the front as well to give the bike a more balanced, plush all around, feel.
Here is a review that also takes issue with the small bump compliance:
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/forks/suspension-forks/2023-rockshox-lyrik-ultimate-review/
I tought you were revering to the 2021 or 2022 editions, they're said to be more supple. The 2023 is with an new damper .. you can also think about luftkaffe ea.
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You're right, I have the 2021 Ultimate,
There are still reviews that mention less small much compliance. I think it depends where you are coming from. Riding a top end fork with a thicker stanchion seems to generally have better small bump compliance than top end forks with thinner stanchions.
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/rockshox-lyrik-ultimate-2021-review/
At the bike park, I found myself avoiding green trials since larger bumps felt better. Until the bike park, I thought it was the most supple fork ever.
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How is the climbing ability on this frame? I keep going back and forth over what direction I should go, 909 for xc and use my overforked 936 as a trail bike, 1001, 1002... everything around me is technical climbing and my skills....well I have no skills, so I need all the help I can get.
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Very capable and efficient climber in a low gear. Better at clearing technical sections than my FM936 by a wide margin. Not as fast on the ups and a lot heavier. my FM936 is 26lb this one is about 31lb
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I just spent the better part of a week on my new build in Moab Utah. The bike (and I) survived lots of drops on a couple of trips to the Whole Enchilada trail system.
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I crashed my FM1002 on Rainmaker at Trestle Bike park. My fault, not the bikes. The bike is okay, just more lost paint (its crazy flakey), but my pinky is broken and needs surgery :'(
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Does anyone else have chain damage like this? Looks like its about to eat into the carbon. What should I do?
Sorry for the dirty bike.
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Does anyone else have chain damage like this? Looks like its about to eat into the carbon. What should I do?
Kydex!
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Does anyone else have chain damage like this? Looks like its about to eat into the carbon. What should I do?
Sorry for the dirty bike.
Nope, nothing like that and I’ve put 550 extremely rough miles on it so far…have you tried VHS Tape on your chainstay? That’s what I use and the big shock absorbing bumps are tall enough that it stops chain slap far enough away from the stay so the chain hasn’t touched that area.
Just also out of curiosity, what size chainring are you running?
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Does anyone else have chain damage like this? Looks like its about to eat into the carbon. What should I do?
Sorry for the dirty bike.
Very change spot for chainslap i would say.
Your chain ist to long or the clutch is to soft are the 2 things I think of.
Because it's near a pivot you can try to put some 3m helicoptertape or something similar.
Good luck
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Nope, nothing like that and I’ve put 550 extremely rough miles on it so far…have you tried VHS Tape on your chainstay? That’s what I use and the big shock absorbing bumps are tall enough that it stops chain slap far enough away from the stay so the chain hasn’t touched that area.
Just also out of curiosity, what size chainring are you running?
32T, I put about 5 Extra links in the chain for suspension to eat up. 10-51 in back. Its possible that this from riding with a loose rear axle, but i fixed that pretty quickly
Kydex!
Never heard of that stuff, Might be perfect for this.
Very change spot for chainslap i would say.
Your chain ist to long or the clutch is to soft are the 2 things I think of.
Because it's near a pivot you can try to put some 3m helicoptertape or something similar.
Good luck
Thanks I will look at the clutch. Definitely going to find some strong low friction tape for it.
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Being quiet here...but good news. Received my frame today...with a scratch on it
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Being quiet here...but good news. Received my frame today...with a scratch on it
That’s a bummer. My shipping box was a bit roughed up but the frame was fine.
Where/how bad? Pics?
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That’s a bummer. My shipping box was a bit roughed up but the frame was fine.
Where/how bad? Pics?
Not that big, but just big enough to be anoying because its on the upperside of the downtube.
More of an issue is not getting the new rear of my fm936 :'(.
I need it for a big event which is coming next weekend...hopefully my bike stays in one piece.
Will wait on a reply from Adam on both issues, but I think it's holiday in China, replies take longer than normal.
The build of the fm1002 has to wait. Still waiting on the magura mt5 brakes and not sure a 150mm dropper will fit on a medium(I've got a brandX for 3 years now, which still works and are cheap, so concidering a new one).
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The X2 doesn't fit. the problem is not the Air can, the problem is the reservoir...
But X does fit, doesn't it?
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But X does fit, doesn't it?
I am using a float x from 2022. It fits :) i tried the 2022 float x2 before and it definitely doesn't fit in a L frame.
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So got reply from Adam about the scratch. Get a refund for 50$. Going to accept it, because sending the frame back isn't a good idea.
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Frame arrived today. I seem to be missing a piece on their headset. Shouldnt there be a top compression split ring to engage the top bearing? All i have is the spacer with the hole in it for internal routing and the top cap. Anyone have any pictures of how they put together their headset?
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Frame arrived today. I seem to be missing a piece on their headset. Shouldnt there be a top compression split ring to engage the top bearing? All i have is the spacer with the hole in it for internal routing and the top cap. Anyone have any pictures of how they put together their headset?
Like i replied on your PM there is no top compression ring and just the bearing and the centering spacer with cuts for internal cable routing. Just writing it here so others might find the information.
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Has anyone tried FSA No 69 SRS? Does it require special stem? Are cables sealed somehow?
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I typed up a reply that got eaten by the forum...
I responded to your PM as well, but wanted to put it here for others. I've installed the FSA No. 69 headset. It has a split upper compression ring and a hole in the top cap for routing. There is no seal for the cables.
I'm seeing the same paint chip issues that others are seeing. I honestly wish I'd just have gotten it painted locally. It's extremely brittle. I'm hard on my other bikes (carbon gravel bike) and I've abused the heck out of it including several crashes with no paint chips.
Rear shock is a Fox Float DPX2 and fits fine. Frame is L. Tried to attach a photo, but it's causing the submit to choke.
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I'm seeing the same paint chip issues that others are seeing. I honestly wish I'd just have gotten it painted locally. It's extremely brittle. I'm hard on my other bikes (carbon gravel bike) and I've abused the heck out of it including several crashes with no paint chips.
Please email carbonda asking for a paint refund. So the bad frame painter gets in trouble. Not all of the paint coming from carbonda is bad. You and I just got unlucky.
Has anyone tried FSA No 69 SRS? Does it require special stem? Are cables sealed somehow?
That headset is not sealed. Should work with any stem. If I didn't already have one, I would grab this while it's in stock (It is right now) https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset
I am using that on top with Carbonda OEM on bottom.
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Please email carbonda asking for a paint refund. So the bad frame painter gets in trouble...
Looking forward of the result of such demand
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I don't intend to do that. I just won't buy paint from them on future builds. The build price on this bike was... hefty. Getting $50 for a paint job that, while chippy, still looks pretty good isn't something I want to bother with.
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I don't intend to do that. I just won't buy paint from them on future builds. The build price on this bike was... hefty. Getting $50 for a paint job that, while chippy, still looks pretty good isn't something I want to bother with.
That's fair. I did get 40$ back on my paint. I don't care about the money. I just think Carbonda has at least one bad painter and asking for a paint refund is a good way to get that message across.
That way, the paint is better in the future.
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I don't intend to do that. I just won't buy paint from them on future builds. The build price on this bike was... hefty. Getting $50 for a paint job that, while chippy, still looks pretty good isn't something I want to bother with.
I don't recommend DIY painting. Especially if you don't own equipment or place to do. Covering every hole is time consuming unless you have a machine for cutting sticker then you can simply measure, print and cover it up. It requires patience, planning and little bit of experience or moderate amount of youtube videos.
Also if you crash and cause chipped/scratched paint, you will understand the real pain. ;D
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I don't recommend DIY painting. Especially if you don't own equipment or place to do.
Also if you crash and cause chipped/scratched paint, you will understand the real pain. ;D
soooo you're telling me I have an excuse to buy more tools?!?! Sign me up!!!
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I don't recommend DIY painting. Especially if you don't own equipment or place to do. Covering every hole is time consuming unless you have a machine for cutting sticker then you can simply measure, print and cover it up. It requires patience, planning and little bit of experience or moderate amount of youtube videos.
Also if you crash and cause chipped/scratched paint, you will understand the real pain. ;D
Yeah, but you can get some pretty cool results from learning to paint DIY
Edit: Jesus sorry it's so huge.
(https://i.imgur.com/5NrzT8n.jpg)
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soooo you're telling me I have an excuse to buy more tools?!?! Sign me up!!!
No need of special tools, just a good friend is enough
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What do you guys think the best shock tune is for this bike?
My shocks was a Specialized Enduro takeoff. With the following tune:
2021, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion, Evol LV, Specialized, Enduro SAV, 205, 60, 0.4 Spacer, CL0001, RLA018, Rezi M2 L+ M+, Standard Logo, N/M
I didn't think too much about the tune when I bought it. I threw in a 0.8 spacer to attempt make it more progressive at the end. Am I doing this right?
Here is the leverage ratio from the insanityofgravity blog post:
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Personally I’ve been really happy with a stock tuned DVO Topaz but am thinking about having the damping slightly tweaked to be plusher when I send it to DVO over the winter for a damper service (don’t trust local shops with DVO suspension, had too many f-ups in the past).
My experience has been that with air shocks, you can almost pretend the regressive dip at the bottom of the travel isn’t there. It’s not as big of a deal as it looks in that graph. I’ve never come anywhere near bottoming out; I weigh ~200lbs without gear and go fairly big on jumps.
I started out with three positive volume spacers, reduced it to one, and am thinking about removing that too. Odds are you’ll be drastically under utilizing travel with a 0.8 spacer in a Fox shock. No spacers or a 0.2 might be a problem for heavy, extremely aggressive riders but my guess is that a 0.4 or 0.6 would be fine. Be willing to experiment; in my experience bottom outs aren’t really an issue with the FM1002.
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Surprisingly, I bottom out fairly often. Most of the time without noticing and only on unruly trails. I always reset the rubber ring on the stroke before descending. Sometimes after a big drop its all the way to the eyelet.
At 77kg with 165 PSI, I've got 27% sag. For big and medium drops my DPX2 feels super supportive. For small chatter it's fairly stiff, not supple. Which I don't mind in the rear.
I'll try adding more air but I am curious as to what tune goes well with this slightly progressive horst-link suspension.
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This is my first full suspension, so I got my hands on a shockwiz. I'm able to get everything on the DPX2 nailed, but the HSC is always pegged at "make softer". The tune I have on my rear shock probably needs to be factory adjusted, because I can't do anything with it. I assume that's the same small chatter you're talking about, and it's my only (minor) gripe.
I couldn't be happier with the Lyrik fork though.
My riding so far is just trail riding, so this bike is complete overkill. However, it handles and is so much more capable than my previous hardtail.
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This is my first full suspension, so I got my hands on a shockwiz. I'm able to get everything on the DPX2 nailed, but the HSC is always pegged at "make softer". The tune I have on my rear shock probably needs to be factory adjusted, because I can't do anything with it. I assume that's the same small chatter you're talking about, and it's my only (minor) gripe.
On my Lyrik I keep HSC/LSC all the way open. If my DPX2 had those adjustments, I'd probably do the same.
Yeah, the DPX2 isn't very supple, but its very supportive and handles big hits surprising well. My only comparison is my DPS on my FM936 and its got a progressive tune with a 0.8 spacer. It doesn't feel nearly as confidence inspiring on jumps or unruly trails.
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What size would you recommend for someone who is 5'9 looking to get a fm1002?
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M?
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Yeah, probably an M. 1002 sizing is pretty middle of the road.
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What size would you recommend for someone who is 5'9 looking to get a fm1002?
I am 177cm, (5'9+) and I went with a large. I think the medium would be okay with a longer stem, but I definitely like the large.
Coming from a medium FM936 and I wanted more bike.
In truth, bike sizing is not about height as much as riding style. A large will be more stable, smoother on tech and faster on the straights, but harder to bail in a crash and won't handle tight corners as well.
Personally, with a static chain stay length (440) on all sizes, I think large is a great size. I'm overforking by 10mm and that makes the reach a tiny bit smaller. For me, the bike doesn't feel big.
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I am using headset from Carbonda. question to those using same headset. do you have also such big gap between upper/lower headset and head tube?
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Did you install all of the thin metal spacers? Those don’t come with most headsets, they are there to compensate for less than perfect tolerances in the headset itself (and also in the frame, but I didn’t have any problem with a FSA headset on my 1002 and it doesn’t include spacers). They exist to prevent the top cap rubbing on the frame and you shouldn’t install more than you actually need.
Looks like you probably only need one, or possibly none.
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I am using OEM Carbonda on the bottom and Ritchey on the top (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset)
I am using headset from Carbonda. question to those using same headset. do you have also such big gap between upper/lower headset and head tube?
Looking at the bottom... your fork cone is missing!
It should sit on top of your fork where the bearings meet the fork, I am using the one that came with the bike. I recommend you install that and it could be why the top sticks out too.
Also, check if there is any play in the headset by picking up the front end and dropping it on a hard surface. You may need to tighten the star nut more than you wanted too.
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thanks for the reply.
As for the upper gap, I put 2 metal thin plates. I will remove them but the metal plate is so thin to fulfill the gap. anyway I will remove and share the result later.
As for the lower gap, fork cone is installed, and no play at the headset, and the top cap bolt is tightened enough to have no play at the headset.
I will try another fork cone which should match with the lower headset if any improvement happens.
I will update soon.
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This is what the top and bottom gaps look like on my FM1001 with no shim. Zero play in the headset, just looks terrible.
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This is what the top and bottom gaps look like on my FM1001 with no shim. Zero play in the headset, just looks terrible.
Was it with the headset they provided with the frame?
I've built a 707 with a Ritchey headset with cable exits in the dust cap, and had the same gap.
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do you have also such big gap between upper/lower headset and head tube?
Measure please thickness (height) of headset bearings. It seems that there is mismatch with the bearings and headset cups. For example upper part of headset may be designed for using 41.8x6.5 bearing, but actually there is 41.8x8 inside (but this is only my assumption).
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Was it with the headset they provided with the frame?
I've built a 707 with a Ritchey headset with cable exits in the dust cap, and had the same gap.
The stock Carbonda headset, and this is the case on two FM1001's actually (built an M and L).
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The stock Carbonda headset, and this is the case on two FM1001's actually (built an M and L).
Did you report that back to them?
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Hi guys,
I measured thickness with my simple caliper.
lower headset of Carbonda (52x7x45):7mm
I changed to FSA 1.5", 36Degree/45Degree ACB: 8mm thickness
FSA one can sit deeper in the frame because gradient part of the headset is longer. (see attached)
finally there is less gap for lower part. (see attached)
As for upper part I just removed 2 thin metal which helped little bit to make smaller gap. I will check other upper headset to reduce the gap. I do not see any gap at upper headset with my other 4 bikes.
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We had a quiet period while everything was tapered 1.125/1.5, most headsets were compatible.
1.5/1.5 seems less standardised, the headsets I installed so far, looked all the same to me, explaining the gaps sometimes ::)
I guess Carbonda could tell the right height the frame was designed for.
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I had a subtle version of that top cap gap with the Carbonda OEM headset (one metal spacer), but no real gap with the FSA no.55R.
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I had my first ride yesterday on the fm1002 at our flat Netherlands. Build with a 160mm lyrik ultimate, rs superdeluxe ultimate, slx groupset and nextie carbon wheelset with speci ground controll/vittoria meczal.
Must say doesn't bike that bad. Noticable steep seatstay when on the flats.
In comparison to my fm936 not nearly as direct when on the paddles.
But what I didn't expexted to be it so nimble, it goes true turns very easy. Also the medium is a bit smaller than the fm936, a large could had fit me also with 1.74 tall.
I think it will rock when I use it in the Alps
But when I'm going to do a lot of km's or climbs like a transalp I probelably take the fm936.
(https://i.ibb.co/kJXyw73/20221202-104251.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/NrFz2Xq/20221202-104236.jpg)
.
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Must say doesn't bike that bad. Noticable steep seatstay when on the flats.
In comparison to my fm936 not nearly as direct when on the paddles.
Do you know how much your FM1002 weighs? My FM936 feels very direct on the pedal but also weighs 2.5kg less. Yours looks pretty light.
By the way, I think you will love how well it climbs over rocks in the alps. It's very grippy on the ups
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Do you know how much your FM1002 weighs? My FM936 feels very direct on the pedal but also weighs 2.5kg less. Yours looks pretty light.
By the way, I think you will love how well it climbs over rocks in the alps. It's very grippy on the ups
I’ll weigh mine tonight if I can string up my hanging scale correctly (bought one a while ago but haven’t used it yet). With the Fox 38 and 2.6 tires it’ll be slightly on the heavy side but should give the general idea. It’s definitely a lot lighter than my last 150mm bike, which had an alloy linkage…
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I am using headset from Carbonda. question to those using same headset. do you have also such big gap between upper/lower headset and head tube?
here is summary for now.
I changed both upper and lower headset bearing from Carbonda to FSA.
By doing so gap between head tube to headset becomes less.
Carbonda upper headset does not have sealing. Thus, I will buy Ritchey Drop in 1.5" Upper Headset or similar which has sealing between bearing and top cap since I do not plan using ACR (all internal cabling).
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I had the opposite problem on my fm1001, I couldn’t get the fork/stem tight enough to work without play. It was touching the frame, not much but enough even with both shims with the carbonda bearingset. I tried to fill the upper bearing cup with very slim tape. It worked but felt like a cheap solution. I solved it by sanding of maybe half a millimetre from the upper part of the headtube.
Now it is perfect. Still I always put loads of marine grease on the bearings to at least prevent some of the moist getting in. It has been running for over a year without problems.
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my build is done 8)
parts
complete xt drivetrain and 4piston breaks
fork RS lyrik ultimate
rearshock RS super deluxe ultimate coil
dropperpost one up 170mm
wheels unbrandet newmen 30mm w new dt swiss 350
tires maxxis minion dhr and dhf
cockpit truvativ descendant
sram grips
saddle sqlab 611
pedals one up composite
weight 14kg w/o tiresealent (i´ll do it tomorrow)
Hi bruggnputzpepi,
Love the look of your bike. How did you find the coil shock?
If you don't mind me asking - how much do you weigh and what coil spring rate did you use?
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If anyone in the uk is in need of an XL frame I have mine for sale on pinkbike just now https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3584168/
I have it up for £700 with shock on pinkbike but anyone on here wants it I can do it £600 plus shipping. I paid £850 for the frame and £300 the shock so would be getting a great deal!
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I may have someone who is interested here in the states, but they want to know if broke your wrist while riding it?
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I may have someone who is interested here in the states, but they want to know if broke your wrist while riding it?
Only just saw your reply now sorry! I would be happy to send over if shipping costs where covered.
I didn't surprisingly, annoyingly it was actually playing football (soccer). Ball hit my wrist, pushed it back and fractured near the joint. Messed up my summer riding and still having small issues with it now!
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After a few tweaks and set up changes (the ODI grips from AliExpress went straight in the bin after the first ride), finally got my small FM1002 how I want it.
I was concerned the reach of the small would be too little for me at 172cm, especially given the steep seat angle. But it feels very nice after some bar roll adjustments.
This is in an orange (YS7192) and Rainbow. The paint looks amazing (but does chip easily as others have said). Lots of protective tape solves this though!
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Hi everyone,
I’m highly considering purchasing the Carbonda FM1002. I’m been reading this thread as well as the FM1003 thread too to get comparison. I want to get an update from everyone on how their experience with their FM1002 has been so far. My takeaway from the FM1003 thread has been that it’s more for gnarlier terrain and can almost be considered downhill bike because of its weight and geo compared to the FM1002. And that the FM1002 can almost be considered a trail bike compared to FM1003. I might have got that from FullCarbonAlchemist, I know he’s a big proponent of FM1002.
I’m searching for an enduro bike to take to bike park and do jumps, handle tech terrain (3-4 ft drops, rock gardens), and still be a descent climber.
Right now, I’m currently riding an ICAN P1 size medium I’ve had for about 2 years now. I’m 178cm tall. The geo on the ICAN I feel is outdated, 68.5 degree headtube angle, 448mm reach, 1170mm wheelbase. I’ve demoed the YT Capra in large and Intense Tracer 29 in Large, and it feels so much more comfortable and I feel more confident riding tech terrain and jumps on it.
Please let me know what your experience has been with the FM1002? Would you purchase it again today? And any tips or things to be considered before purchasing?
I’m in conversation with Katie at Carbonda and close to buying it.
Thanks!
Crankydad
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I would recommend the 1002. It's almost exactly a year since we built a 1002 with a 170mm Fox 36 for my son. He has been absolutely hammering it and no problems at all with the frame. He rides everything from big day rides to Whistler park on it. I've ridden it a couple of times just to get a feel for it and really like it.
I would recommend having a careful think about size through. I am 178cm and would be right on the line between medium and large. Personally I'd be tempted to go medium because I think the reach on some bikes is now too long, but it really just depends on what you prefer.
See if you can negotiate a discount. When I looked at Carbonda recently for another build they were a little more expensive than some other options.
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I have a couple quick questions for you guys!
Does anyone have the max seatpost insertion depth for a size M?
Also, I am planning to build this up with a 150mm fork. Interestingly enough, a size L FM-1001 overforked to 150mm has nearly the same geo as a size M FM-1002 underforked to 150mm.
The main difference between the two is that the 1001 has 135mm rear travel vs the 1002 has 150mm. The reach, stack, head tube angle, wheelbase, chainstay length, etc are all within 0.5deg or 0-10mm difference.
Does anyone have experience underforking this bike to be a 150/150?
Thanks!
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I would recommend the 1002. It's almost exactly a year since we built a 1002 with a 170mm Fox 36 for my son. He has been absolutely hammering it and no problems at all with the frame. He rides everything from big day rides to Whistler park on it. I've ridden it a couple of times just to get a feel for it and really like it.
I would recommend having a careful think about size through. I am 178cm and would be right on the line between medium and large. Personally I'd be tempted to go medium because I think the reach on some bikes is now too long, but it really just depends on what you prefer.
See if you can negotiate a discount. When I looked at Carbonda recently for another build they were a little more expensive than some other options.
Thank you Boybiskit! I really appreciate you sharing your experience. Good to know even on big park days like Whistler it can handle it. Will look into sizing again.
Crankydad
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I have a couple quick questions for you guys!
Does anyone have the max seatpost insertion depth for a size M?
Also, I am planning to build this up with a 150mm fork. Interestingly enough, a size L FM-1001 overforked to 150mm has nearly the same geo as a size M FM-1002 underforked to 150mm.
The main difference between the two is that the 1001 has 135mm rear travel vs the 1002 has 150mm. The reach, stack, head tube angle, wheelbase, chainstay length, etc are all within 0.5deg or 0-10mm difference.
Does anyone have experience underforking this bike to be a 150/150?
Thanks!
In general, the seat post insertions is no problem for this frame. On my large frame, I can fully insert my 180mm OneUp V2 dropper, almost 27cm of insertion.
Regarding the overfork/underforking questions, the reach would be quite different. The FM1002 has much more reach than the FM1001. Underforking the FM1002 would increase the reach even more. Over forking the FM1001 would decrease the reach even more. I would guess 5-9mm difference each way, plus the 7mm built in difference so the two builds would have a 17-25mm in total reach difference.
Personally, I would recommend overforking for both bikes! My 170mm Lyrik puts me at 64 degrees with the head angle and make my large frame feel more medium. I think the FM1002 is the best, just don't count on the paint being perfect if you go with Carbonda!
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In general, the seat post insertions is no problem for this frame. On my large frame, I can fully insert my 180mm OneUp V2 dropper, almost 27cm of insertion.
Regarding the overfork/underforking questions, the reach would be quite different. The FM1002 has much more reach than the FM1001. Underforking the FM1002 would increase the reach even more. Over forking the FM1001 would decrease the reach even more. I would guess 5-9mm difference each way, plus the 7mm built in difference so the two builds would have a 17-25mm in total reach difference.
Personally, I would recommend overforking for both bikes! My 170mm Lyrik puts me at 64 degrees with the head angle and make my large frame feel more medium. I think the FM1002 is the best, just don't count on the paint being perfect if you go with Carbonda!
I just recently completed the purchase for an FM1002 frame! I look forward to sharing more about the build, and how everything works out!
Thank you everyone for sharing feedback.
Crankydad
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In general, the seat post insertions is no problem for this frame. On my large frame, I can fully insert my 180mm OneUp V2 dropper, almost 27cm of insertion.
Regarding the overfork/underforking questions, the reach would be quite different. The FM1002 has much more reach than the FM1001. Underforking the FM1002 would increase the reach even more. Over forking the FM1001 would decrease the reach even more. I would guess 5-9mm difference each way, plus the 7mm built in difference so the two builds would have a 17-25mm in total reach difference.
Personally, I would recommend overforking for both bikes! My 170mm Lyrik puts me at 64 degrees with the head angle and make my large frame feel more medium. I think the FM1002 is the best, just don't count on the paint being perfect if you go with Carbonda!
I'm leaning towards not this frame after all.
I currently ride a trail bike with 455mm reach which feels short.
The FM1002 size M has a reach of 457 which is pretty dead on, and underforking it by 10mm brings that up to 462 which is an improvement but not by much.
I think the best fit would be a L frame, but the 440mm seat tube length is too tall for me.
The struggles of short legs and long reach, my body geo makes bike shopping hard lol
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General Update, Almost a year since building:
I'm 77kg and 177cm tall and loving my large, overforked, FM1002 .
I was originally afraid this would be "too much bike" for me... Looking back, I've no idea why I was worried. If I didn't already have a FM936, I would have built a FM1001. But I did have a the FM936 so I built this FM1002 as an aggressive trail bike for the stuff my FM936 can't handle. My FM936 is collecting dust as I always pick the FM1002 to ride no matter the trail. Although its 2KG more, It's just a more fun bike.
The main difference is this:
On the trials the FM936 is holding me back. On the same trails I'm holding the FM1002 back. Both going down and climbing up.
Also the BB height ;)
Fantastic bike, can be very plush, but a little extra air in the rear make its super poppy too. Basically, I think this particular 4 Bar design has nice ratios.
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Found this same frame on eBay from the now defunct Framed bikes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335011134872?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-aE-pL5DTGu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=UVhJkGg3R3u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Low balled the seller with a 500 dollar offer and he took it. Not a huge fan of the yellow, but will probably cut a new logo to cover it.
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Found this same frame on eBay from the now defunct Framed bikes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335011134872?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-aE-pL5DTGu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=UVhJkGg3R3u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Low balled the seller with a 500 dollar offer and he took it. Not a huge fan of the yellow, but will probably cut a new logo to cover it.
I hate you! After seeing your posting, I searched the seller's store and saw that they listed small and large frames too. Because of you, I made the $500 offer, and they accepted. Grumble, grumble! Now I will be stuck with one of these frames to build up over the winter.
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I hate you! After seeing your posting, I searched the seller's store and saw that they listed small and large frames too. Because of you, I made the $500 offer, and they accepted. Grumble, grumble! Now I will be stuck with one of these frames to build up over the winter.
Should have gone lower haha.
My frame already shipped and should be here before the weeks end!
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Should have gone lower haha.
My frame already shipped and should be here before the weeks end!
We need another sucker, I mean prospective buyer to make an offer of $480. ;D
I already have a tracking number, and they claim it shipped today and should arrive by Nov. 3rd.
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We need another sucker, I mean prospective buyer to make an offer of $480. ;D
I already have a tracking number, and they claim it shipped today and should arrive by Nov. 3rd.
Mine comes today, but I'm out of town for a week....
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Has anyone set this bike up as a 27.5? i have been looking for a frame to build up with some parts i have laying around. i have 27.5x2.6 wheels and a 160mm yari. the BB drop looks close to some 27.5 frames i have been looking at.
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Has anyone set this bike up as a 27.5? i have been looking for a frame to build up with some parts i have laying around. i have 27.5x2.6 wheels and a 160mm yari. the BB drop looks close to some 27.5 frames i have been looking at.
One can always install 27.5 wheels on a 29er. It lowers the BB by about 3/4" downwards, so pedal strikes can happen more often. If the frame fits "+ tires" then you can gain back some of the lost BB clearance.
The Ebay store/person selling the Piedmont frame is selling a 27.5 full suspension frame. I haven't looked at the specifications. Here is the link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394913248334?hash=item5bf2a9f44e:g:dfIAAOSw1fZlGyVG
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Looking for fork options.
The Carbonda listing shows a 150 fork, but it appears everyone is using a 160. Anyone know if the geo numbers on the site are for a 150 or a 160?
I see the fly bike listing is for 160.....
Thanks
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Looking for fork options.
The Carbonda listing shows a 150 fork, but it appears everyone is using a 160. Anyone know if the geo numbers on the site are for a 150 or a 160?
I see the fly bike listing is for 160.....
Thanks
I run mine with 170 and it feels very balanced to me.
All depends on what you want out of the bike.
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One can always install 27.5 wheels on a 29er. It lowers the BB by about 3/4" downwards, so pedal strikes can happen more often. If the frame fits "+ tires" then you can gain back some of the lost BB clearance.
The Ebay store/person selling the Piedmont frame is selling a 27.5 full suspension frame. I haven't looked at the specifications. Here is the link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394913248334?hash=item5bf2a9f44e:g:dfIAAOSw1fZlGyVG
That’s the Montana, a full suspension fat bike. Trust me, as a snow riding fat biker for eight years now (who’s also tried stuff like 29+ wheels on his fat bike), I can say with authority that you don’t want axles that wide unless you need the clearance for fat tires.
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Has anyone set this bike up as a 27.5? i have been looking for a frame to build up with some parts i have laying around. i have 27.5x2.6 wheels and a 160mm yari. the BB drop looks close to some 27.5 frames i have been looking at.
I ran mine with mixed wheels at first and really didn’t like the sensation of the rear axle being lower than the front or the low bottom bracket. Going dual 27.5 would make the former problem better but the latter one much worse. I don’t recommend it.
As someone who’s experimented with pretty much every wheel and tire size combo out there, you’ll be much happier with a full 29er. They really are better in pretty much every way except turning radius and I’ve long since learned to live with that. Riding on 29” wheels will make you a better rider as your riding style changes while you adapt to it.
That said, if you’re fully committed to using existing 27.5 parts (an approach that I tried and actually cost me more money in the long run when I changed my mind), you’ll want to go with a frame intended for that.
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My Framed frame arrived today. Very fast Fed-ex shipping. Packaged nicely, no damage or scratches on the frame. I will make plans to cover up the yellow "FRAMED" logo on it. perhaps turn it into "FRAM" or "MED" "RAM" or "AM"
The decals are clear coated and cannot be removed.
Edit: Now the long slow process of part accumulation will begin.... I already ordered a UDH with 12 x 1.5 thread pitch and a 181 x 12(P1.25) Thru axle, and a seat post clamp, off of Aliexpress. I am laughing because a good rear shock will cost more than the frame, and the suspension fork will probably cost over $1K. It will end up costing $2k for the frame, rear shock, and suspension fork. Ouch!
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My Framed frame arrived today. Very fast Fed-ex shipping. Packaged nicely, no damage or scratches on the frame. I will make plans to cover up the yellow "FRAMED" logo on it. perhaps turn it into "FRAM" or "MED" "RAM" or "AM"
The decals are clear coated and cannot be removed.
Edit: Now the long slow process of part accumulation will begin.... I already ordered a UDH with 12 x 1.5 thread pitch and a 181 x 12(P1.25) Thru axle, and a seat post clamp, off of Aliexpress. I am laughing because a good rear shock will cost more than the frame, and the suspension fork will probably cost over $1K. It will end up costing $2k for the frame, rear shock, and suspension fork. Ouch!
Look at the discounts available on DVO’s site for the Topaz, works great with my 1002 on par or better than any shock out there and with the 30% sales they’ve been running, price is under $400 for the newest Gen 3 model.
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This DVO shock is on my short list. Unfortunately, it is out of stock in a 205 x 60 on the DVO web site and many other sellers. (At less than the $550 typical asking price.)
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I ordered a regular headset with Carbonda, but interested in trying the in headset routing also. I did it in my last gravel bike and didn't really mind the extra headache.
Any reason this wouldn't work?
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I ordered a regular headset with Carbonda, but interested in trying the in headset routing also. I did it in my last gravel bike and didn't really mind the extra headache.
Any reason this wouldn't work?
I hope you realize that that is just the upper bearing set. You need to order a lower one to complete the set.
Since I don't want internal routing through the headset, I ordered this FSA headset for my new frame.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558
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I hope you realize that that is just the upper bearing set. You need to order a lower one to complete the set.
Since I don't want internal routing through the headset, I ordered this FSA headset for my new frame.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558
I ordered the regular headset through carbonda. I'm aware that this is just the upper. I have not ordered this one yet, but kicking around the idea. Would use the bottom from Carbonda and possibly this upper if I'm doing the through headset routing. Also got the frame plugs from Carbonda Incase I decide to go this route.
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500 for this frame seems like a steal, I'm jealous of you both.
For 29er fork options, look at the axle to crown measurement, not the travel. I have 170mm Lyrik and that puts my head angle at 64.1 degrees. If I had a 170mm Zeb I would be closer to ~63.6 degrees.
Did someone have an issue fitting an FSA headset?
Ritchey makes a headset that fits too, I've been using the Ritchey upper and Carbonda lower with no problems
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Did someone have an issue fitting an FSA headset?
Ritchey makes a headset that fits too, I've been using the Ritchey upper and Carbonda lower with no problems
My FSA headset arrived a couple days ago and I did a fit check. It fits perfectly. No visible gaps or rubbing.
This being stated, FSA uses 52 x 40 x 8mm angular contact bearings with 36 and 45 degree angles. This means one has to use matching FSA fork crown and upper compression ring.
Searching spare bearings on Aliexpress, I find that 52 x 40 x 7mm with 45 by 45 contact angles is the most common (P16) bearing.
Less common, but still readily available, are 52 x 40 x 8mm with 45 by 45 contact angles (P16-8 bearings).
I have not found any 52 x 40 x 8mm with 36 by 45 contact angles for sale on Aliexpress. Implies that I will have to pay a premium to get replacements, if I ever have to replace the FSA bearings.
Ritchie upper uses a 52 x 40 x 8mm bearing with 45 by 45 contact angles.
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I ordered a regular headset with Carbonda, but interested in trying the in headset routing also. I did it in my last gravel bike and didn't really mind the extra headache.
Any reason this wouldn't work?
It'll work, but most of these aren't rated for MTB use. As in they aren't rated to withstand the forces and shocks when you case them or go full send down a rock garden.
So you may be ok depending on your riding.
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My Brother offered $480 for one of the E-bay listed "Framed" frames and they accepted.
If anyone is still in the market for this frame, I'd recommend making an offer of $470.
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As the expression goes: Houston we have a problem. Perhaps someone with a built bike can take some measurements for me. I started fit checking parts to the "Framed" frame and discovered that my Wheeltop EDS rear derailleur will not fit onto the UDS hanger. It appears that the frame has a lot of material below the axle center-line and the EDS has a lot more material around the top of the mounting bolt. (XT 12 speed cable derailleur fits with very little frame clearance.)
1. Can someone send a pic of their frame to see if the Carbonda or Flybike has the same amount of material around the rear hanger. Wondering if the Framed is different.
2. Has any one seen, or aware of a UDH that has more than the standard 30mm between the axle and der. hanger hole.
3. I really hate grinding and what it does to frame or parts strength.
-I don't want to have to section a hanger and weld in a spacer. It would work but may change the shift quality some because the derailleur will sits lower than normal.
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It'll work, but most of these aren't rated for MTB use. As in they aren't rated to withstand the forces and shocks when you case them or go full send down a rock garden.
So you may be ok depending on your riding.
Didn't even consider this.
Good thinking.
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-I don't want to have to section a hanger and weld in a spacer. It would work but may change the shift quality some because the derailleur will sits lower than normal.
I'll test fit some I have here tomorrow and see how that goes.
I am thinking about going gx transmission, wondering if this would be an issue. Would hate to get it and have it not fit.....
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I'll test fit some I have here tomorrow and see how that goes.
I am thinking about going gx transmission, wondering if this would be an issue. Would hate to get it and have it not fit.....
The transmission derailleurs fit around the entire axle/hanger point, no reason to think that this would be an issue for them.
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Didn't even consider this.
Good thinking.
This is not good thinking. There is nothing about the internal headset routing that would cause the front end to be weaker. The fork is held in place with the exact same amount of material, the differences are in the c-clip for internal cable pass through and the top cap, neither of which is structural. The internal routing is offered as an option on the 909, 1001, and 1002 frames with no issues reported about front end failures.
edit: removed 1003 from list
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This is not good thinking. There is nothing about the internal headset routing that would cause the front end to be weaker. The fork is held in place with the exact same amount of material, the differences are in the c-clip for internal cable pass through and the top cap, neither of which is structural. The internal routing is offered as an option on the 909, 1001, 1002 and 1003 frames with no issues reported about front end failures.
I don’t think the 1003 has this option since the headset has a 1” upper instead of 1.5/1.5 like the others you mentioned. It’s also a pressed in ZS headset so the cups don’t really leave any space for cables, though maybe there’s an internal routing ZS tapered headset I’m not aware of with cutouts in the cups or something….
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I don’t think the 1003 has this option since the headset has a 1” upper instead of 1.5/1.5 like the others you mentioned. It’s also a pressed in ZS headset so the cups don’t really leave any space for cables, though maybe there’s an internal routing ZS tapered headset I’m not aware of with cutouts in the cups or something….
Removed 1003 from the list, the point still stands though. There is nothing to suggest that through headset cable routing makes for a weaker front end that isn't suitable for mountain biking.
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Removed 1003 from the list, the point still stands though. There is nothing to suggest that through headset cable routing makes for a weaker front end that isn't suitable for mountain biking.
It think he was referring more to the construction of the headset itself. For instance the one I linked looks to be made of a composite. The main concern I would think would be the compression ring that shrinks the 1.5 bearing down to fit the fork.
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Making some progress while I wait for some parts to deliver and others to go on sale on BF.
Covered up the ugly yellow with some satin black vinyl
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Mounted the DPX2, fresh take off of a Spec. Enduro.
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What vinyl did you use and where did you source is. I am gathering parts for my FRAMED Frame.
What 205 X 60 shock are you going to use?
What fork? 150 or 160 travel? I don't mind the top logo on the frame. It looks OK to me.
I plan on using a Wheeltop EDS derailleur. I might have already posted that it doesn't fit!! The UHD is too short relative to the mass and width of rear triangle, and the amount of material around the EDS mounting boss. I have already cut the frame to make the derailleur fit, and will back fill the opening with a carbon fiber sheet/epoxy resin.
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It's a bit of a multi-level problem. Firstly, the design of the bearing retainer clip absolutely matters on the IS52/40 headsets. If you don't have a clip with a deep seat, a rough hit will cause the seat to rise out the groove and come loose. Remember, you've only got at best 270 degrees of engagement with the seat on a narrow 2-5mm 45 degree chamfer.
If the clip is a poor design, you can even split them as many road ones are thin aluminium, with cut outs to allow them to compress/spring into the bearing seat - these will act as stress raisers and be a point through which it cracks.
Finally (and this is generally not an issue), the headset cap may be composite or resin which could fracture in a crash, especially if you have a large force through the steerer tube. This is why most MTB headsets are metal, but again it is not always the case (depends on the intended use).
Internal routing is fine, you just need a suitable headset. Which is unfortunately pretty hard for this bike. But First C552 is one possible option. I'm still waiting on Token to launch their M-Box in IS52/40 though as it's a much better design in my opinion.
This is not good thinking. There is nothing about the internal headset routing that would cause the front end to be weaker. The fork is held in place with the exact same amount of material, the differences are in the c-clip for internal cable pass through and the top cap, neither of which is structural. The internal routing is offered as an option on the 909, 1001, and 1002 frames with no issues reported about front end failures.
edit: removed 1003 from list
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What vinyl did you use and where did you source is. I am gathering parts for my FRAMED Frame.
What 205 X 60 shock are you going to use?
What fork? 150 or 160 travel? I don't mind the top logo on the frame. It looks OK to me.
I plan on using a Wheeltop EDS derailleur. I might have already posted that it doesn't fit!! The UHD is too short relative to the mass and width of rear triangle, and the amount of material around the EDS mounting boss. I have already cut the frame to make the derailleur fit, and will back fill the opening with a carbon fiber sheet/epoxy resin.
The derailleur issue is wild. I only have a shimano group atm and as noted its tight but fits.
I had a friend with a vinyl cutter locally make it for me.
I actually got the logo/vector from the guy that designed it. Found it on his portfolio website.
Seeing as they are defunct I imagine he wont mind me sharing.
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Thanks. I was 1/2 thinking about covering up the FRAMED logo with a continuous piece of vinyl, one piece on each side, rather than individual letter cutouts. Or use a "Vinyl wrap" type of material.
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Mounted the DPX2, fresh take off of a Spec. Enduro.
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Nice I also used an DPX2 Enduro take off. Kinda wish I had the Float X instead.
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What 205 X 60 shock are you going to use?
What fork? 150 or 160 travel?
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For front end, the frame is not actually spec'd for 150, it is for 160-sh. IIRC, A 160mm lyric is shorter than the recommend fork length and a 160mm Zeb is a little over the specified fork length. I would do a 160-170mm Zeb.
For rear end, air shocks will work best according the insanityOfGravity linkage check post. If I could pick, I would get the Float X with a standard tune and add a bigger spacer in it.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806026540504.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.4580561eThiygg&algo_pvid=56415b5e-ed99-4fc8-8c5b-2625872711bf&algo_exp_id=56415b5e-ed99-4fc8-8c5b-2625872711bf-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2137.08%2125.96%21%21%2137.08%21%21%402101f49d17005887681362108eb763%2112000036303154828%21sea%21US%212793252639%21&curPageLogUid=gOr6zwJe7xqX
The 52-52 aluminum cap might be another through the headset option.
Nylon compression ring on this one also....
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For front end, the frame is not actually spec'd for 150, it is for 160-sh. IIRC, A 160mm lyric is shorter than the recommend fork length and a 160mm Zeb is a little over the specified fork length. I would do a 160-170mm Zeb.
Can you clarify what generation RS forks you are referring to? Older Lyriks that had a travel range of 150 to 170 or the latest 2023/2024 Lyrik that has a travel range of 140 to 160mm.
Note too that the previous generation has a 42mm offset versus the latest generation is 44mm (Yes, I know there is a 51mm version offset too.)
The Zeb is a heavier duty fork having 36mm tubes versus Lyrik's 35mm. Plus a weight increase of over 200 grams for the Zeb. Reviews and posted comments are all over the place regarding which fork performs better. Most comment that it depends on the rider's weight and the types of terrain you ride on.
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Can you clarify what generation RS forks you are referring to? Older Lyriks that had a travel range of 150 to 170 or the latest 2023/2024 Lyrik that has a travel range of 140 to 160mm.
Note too that the previous generation has a 42mm offset versus the latest generation is 44mm (Yes, I know there is a 51mm version offset too.)
The Zeb is a heavier duty fork having 36mm tubes versus Lyrik's 35mm. Plus a weight increase of over 200 grams for the Zeb. Reviews and posted comments are all over the place regarding which fork performs better. Most comment that it depends on the rider's weight and the types of terrain you ride on.
I just double checked, the difference between this generation and the last generation is not much and the 64.5 degree head angle is with a 572 fork.
- The new 160mm Lyrik is about 571
- My 170mm Lyrik is 581
- The new 160mm Zeb 576
I would recommend overforking, especially if the bike is on the bigger side for you. If you can get a 170mm Lyrik, I love mine and I only wish for a Zeb when doing a lot of downhill.
My 170mm Lyrik is 581 long puts my large frame at 64.1 degree head angle and it climbs well. Definitely could be more slack before I lose pedal efficiency.
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2023 on Lyric 160 mm travel is listed as 571mm, One mm less than the 572 listed on the frame geometries.
2023 Zeb 160mm is listed as 576mm (confirming your post), 170 Zeb is 596mm.
I try to consider what the delta of a longer or shorter fork does to the seat tube angle besides the change in HT angle. I think that a 170 fork would put my seat farther back and I wouldn't have as much weight forward as I would like for the types of climbing I do.
Large frame isn't too large for me. Medium is definitely too small.
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2023 on Lyric 160 mm travel is listed as 571mm, One mm less than the 572 listed on the frame geometries.
2023 Zeb 160mm is listed as 576mm (confirming your post), 170 Zeb is 596mm.
I try to consider what the delta of a longer or shorter fork does to the seat tube angle besides the change in HT angle. I think that a 170 fork would put my seat farther back and I wouldn't have as much weight forward as I would like for the types of climbing I do.
Large frame isn't too large for me. Medium is definitely too small.
My bad it's ~571, editted my last post.
In your situation I agree the 170 Zeb might affect steep climbing.
The 160mm lyrik is a great fork, I wish 170 was still an option.
If you are lightweight and do a lot climbing, maybe go with lyrik.
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I am light weight (145 lbs) and went with the 160 lyric. Here next Friday.
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My framed FS frame version of the Flybike is almost together. Today's weight is 29.62 lbs I still have to figure out the settings for handlebars and finish setting up the front end. Attaching a picture that is a few days old.
I have encountered a problem. It appears to me that the SRAM UDH sits farther back by about 1/2"(10-15mm) than a regular derailleur hanger. I am trying us use a Wheel Top EDS on this bike to match 3 other bikes I have the EDS installed on. I believe that because of the hanger position, I can't get the derailleur to shift into the highers cog. (10 tooth)
If I trim the derailleur so it shifts into the 10 cog, then I can't shift into the 51 cog. I believe it is the UHDs fault because of its position behind and below the axle. (See attached images one that shows the FRAMED hanger and on on my carbon hardtail.)
For grins, I swapped out the derailleur from a very smooth shifting EDS onto this frame and I encountered the same problem, so I am positive it is the UHD's position that is causing the problem. (Anyone else have this type of problem?)
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I should have my derailleur (old gx axs) ready to mount shortly after Christmas. Waiting on wheels. Interested to see if it's the same.
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My bad it's ~571, editted my last post.
In your situation I agree the 170 Zeb might affect steep climbing.
The 160mm lyrik is a great fork, I wish 170 was still an option.
If you are lightweight and do a lot climbing, maybe go with lyrik.
I have a Lyric Ultimate 170mm. The bike climbs and handles great. Seat angle difference between 60mm and 170mm can be made up by sliding seat 1/4" forward. But probably not necessary.
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This is how my FRAMED Piedmont/Flybike build ended up. (If need to be ridden now and tuned.) - But it is winter....
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This is how my FRAMED Piedmont/Flybike build ended up. (If need to be ridden now and tuned.) - But it is winter....
Looking good!
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This is how my FRAMED Piedmont/Flybike build ended up. (If need to be ridden now and tuned.) - But it is winter....
What did you use to cover the Framed logo? It blends well.
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What did you use to cover the Framed logo? It blends well.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Gloss-Black-Adhesive-Release/dp/B083QSL6FQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=631555815337&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021400&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9324566939558593874&hvtargid=kwd-30699347335&hydadcr=7056_13293877&keywords=gloss%2Bblack%2Bvinyl%2Bwrap&qid=1700849264&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
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Here is my final build:
"Framed" Frame
160 Lyric
Fox DPX2
Elite Wheels "Enduro" 40mm external 30mm internal
SRAM AXS Drivetrain. Mic of GX, XX1, and X1 Carbon Cranks
Ali-x dropper 150mm
RF stem
Brand-X Carbon Bars
Ali-x Carbon Saddle
30lbs 1oz without pedals.
Can't wait to put it through it's paces, but winter.....
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https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Gloss-Black-Adhesive-Release/dp/B083QSL6FQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=631555815337&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021400&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9324566939558593874&hvtargid=kwd-30699347335&hydadcr=7056_13293877&keywords=gloss%2Bblack%2Bvinyl%2Bwrap&qid=1700849264&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Thanks! I ordered a roll for my Framed Alaskan Carbon fat bike…it’s otherwise black with red accents and I think it’ll look better without the big silver logo of a defunct company.
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Here is my final build:
"Framed" Frame
160 Lyric
Fox DPX2
Elite Wheels "Enduro" 40mm external 30mm internal
SRAM AXS Drivetrain. Mic of GX, XX1, and X1 Carbon Cranks
Ali-x dropper 150mm
RF stem
Brand-X Carbon Bars
Ali-x Carbon Saddle
30lbs 1oz without pedals.
Can't wait to put it through it's paces, but winter.....
Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?
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Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?
Hi everyone,
I'm working on building up my Carbonda FM1002. I'm having trouble doing the internal routing for rear shifter cable and rear brake cable. I'm actually working on the rear shifter cable first. It's really frustrating. I'm using a magnet internal routing kit. I've tried from the front to back of frame, and also from the back to front of frame. I've had a little success going from back to front of frame. I was able to get the cable housing from rear triangle then to the front triangle. At the front triangle, it just gets stuck just about 3 inches in from the bottom bracket area and I have a long way to go up the downtube to the cable port.
Those 2 rubber grommets cable ports between the rear triangle and front triangle for the cables are really pissing me off.
I read some other comments on this thread, I know there was suggesting to remove the rear triangle. I could definitely see that as an option. But it looks like to remove the rear triangle, the bearing covers require special tools? I see hex wrench covers, I see some torq wrench, and there's one that lt looks like it's just blank.
I need help. Please share advice thank you!
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Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?
Got this shock as a new take off for 100.
Being a lighter rider I have never felt the need for more, but will see how this handles.
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Those 2 rubber grommets cable ports between the rear triangle and front triangle for the cables are really pissing me off.
I read some other comments on this thread, I know there was suggesting to remove the rear triangle. I could definitely see that as an option. But it looks like to remove the rear triangle, the bearing covers require special tools? I see hex wrench covers, I see some torq wrench, and there's one that lt looks like it's just blank.
I removed the bottom bolt assembly holding the the lower rear triangle to the back of the frame. It was the only way I could figure out how to run housing through the triangle, grommets and bottom bracket area.
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I removed the bottom bolt assembly holding the the lower rear triangle to the back of the frame. It was the only way I could figure out how to run housing through the triangle, grommets and bottom bracket area.
Oo I will try that! Thank you. Will try that today. Thank for your response and helping me out. I really appreciate it.
Crankydad
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Those grommets are a real PITA. I tried repeatedly to get them seated right (came out of place during cable install) and eventually gave up trying. Even had a local shop give it a go and no dice.
Ended up just leaving them imperfectly seated and it’s never been a problem.
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Those grommets are a real PITA. I tried repeatedly to get them seated right (came out of place during cable install) and eventually gave up trying. Even had a local shop give it a go and no dice.
Ended up just leaving them imperfectly seated and it’s never been a problem.
Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.
I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.
Thanks for your reply and suggestions.
Crankydad
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Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.
I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.
Thanks for your reply and suggestions.
Crankydad
I was able to remove the rear triangle lower hinge bolt to front lower front triangle! It took a 6mm hex wrench on one side, and also a 5mm hex wrench (ball end of 5mm hex wrench) for the other side to hold one screw steady while turning the 6mm hex wrench to unfasten it. Photo of success below! Thank you Tijoe and FullCarbon for help.
(https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resid=5E328EDE6A45F6E5%2123656&authkey=%21ACeFRsBJ2DF1mKg&height=660)
-Crankydad
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This thread has slowed down! Anyone riding their FM1001 or FM1166 bikes? I've have about 50 miles on mine tooling around while trying to avoid icy snow. I am looking forward to taking it out on some more challenging rides when spring arrives.
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This thread has slowed down! Anyone riding their FM1001 or FM1166 bikes? I've have about 50 miles on mine tooling around while trying to avoid icy snow. I am looking forward to taking it out on some more challenging rides when spring arrives.
I am loving mine still, the slack head angle has saved me from going over the handlebars many times now. Love taking it down everything from chunky tech to mellow XC riding.