Chinese Carbon MTB Forums
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Re: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
Brought the bike to a local bike shop on Tuesday to let it have checked. Everything was ok, so I took it to the local trail today. The ride was very smooth but still have to get used to it as I was riding a 26er before. This one feels completely different, rough terrain is much less an issue. Curves feel very much different. July 04, 2019, 01:18:53 PM |
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Re: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
Some more impressions
July 04, 2019, 01:19:27 PM |
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ICAN P9 29ER ENDURO BUILD
Been lurking on here for a while deciding whether to take the plunge and buy a 160/150mm travel charbon enduro. After research online, finding out about Evolve Bikes in Canada and YEEPYEEP putting me onto to Jordan Boostmeister I was sold. Bought a frame and shock from ICAN for $1500AUD to my door and spec'd it up to what I wanted. The original plan was to use all the bits off my Specialized Enduro but I decided I had had enough of paying "SRAM tax" for parts. Specs of the build: ICAN P9 frame unpainted Rockshox 160mm Lyric RC2 with debonair @51mm offset (converted my Yari to new Lyrik) Rockshox 210x55mm Super Deluxe Shock Box One Extra Wide derailleur Box One Shifter Raceface Aeffect 24mm cinch crank with 165mm arms Raceface 30 tooth cinch chainring Shimano Hollowtech 68mm BSA BB Novatec boost hubs with Shimano driver Raceworks 11-50 tooth cassette (China) Magura MT5 brakes Oneup 150mm dropper post and remote Deity 35mm stem Deity 800mm bars DT Swiss EX511 rear wheel Roval Control front wheel (temporary until EX511 hoops are back in stock) Custom 3D printed downtube bash guard (will be available for purchase soon if enough interest) Only been on one ride but this thing absolutely rips. Plush yet playful and has minimal pedal bob. Very responsive on direction change but my only gripe is the BB is too low and I pedal strike a fair bit. September 18, 2019, 05:45:05 PM |
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Re: ICAN P9 ENDURO BUILD
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September 18, 2019, 05:50:09 PM |
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Re: ICAN P9 ENDURO BUILD
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September 18, 2019, 05:50:31 PM |
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Re: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
My build
March 19, 2020, 05:51:55 PM |
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Re: Light Carbon FS713 build planning
That’s all! Fox X2 
March 23, 2020, 04:06:54 AM |
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Re: TanTan FM08 cracked during shipping
Figured I’d close out the story on this one. I ended up doing a DIY carbon repair using the kit from Predator Cycling. It involved sanding down the broken layers of carbon and epoxying in fresh layers. I was initially suspicious of how well this would work, but the cracks turned out to be quite shallow and it seems to be holding up. The bike is now built up and I’m having a blast with it! It’s my first full sus and I’m loving the extra confidence I get from it on the trails  July 25, 2020, 11:31:33 PM |
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Re: My N019 Build, NASA themed!
Just a long term update on my N019 bike experience --in short, the bike is still running great! I've tweaked a few things over the years, namely around the stem length and drivetrain. Stem length It took a while for me to dial in the turn-in feel caused by the long fork+spacer induced rake. I adjusted the front & rear tire pressures and stem length, and I also went to a flat Ti bar. The only surprise really was the impact the rear tire pressure seems to make. Up or down a few Psi transforms the bike substantially. I expected this for the front tire pressure, but the rear tire makes a notable difference as well. I suppose it is because the rear ride height changes, hence the head angle... Drivetrain The XT/XTR 10 speed setup gave way to the Di2-ification of the rest of my bike fleet, I now run a 1x10 Di2 setup with a 6770 Ultegra rear derailleur and an XTR shifter. It works just fine with the derailleur hanger extender and a 42t cassette big ring. With a 32t oval ring up front, there’s plenty of gear going up. I’ve taken the bike almost 1000 miles and now live on the west coast, where single track is either up or down 15 degrees. Not much flat anymore, and I’ve been really impressed that, we’ll, the frame hasn’t snapped from the foolish descents I’ve taken on it. No I’m not hitting 10’ drops and ramps on it, but there have been dozens of “whoa” moments where I pondered my sanity and the structural integrity of the head tube. My greatest annoyance with the bike is the fork axle and crankset — neither of which are the frame’s fault. The drive side BB screw just loves to back out 4mi in regardless of threadlocker. Since moving west, my MTB trail vehicle is now a Porsche Boxster which while cool as heck requires removing the front wheel 2x per ride. Pulling out the 15mm Bitex axle is a pain, and I may be switching to a Mendon Cyclery Lefty fat conversion this winter. The bike is a huge collection of unique weird hacks and oddities, and I admit I enjoy the befuddled look of dudes on their cookie cutter Specializeds. Especially passing them uphill  Here’s a short compilation video featuring this project bike and the Boxster bike rack rigging. Cheers! -Robert August 02, 2020, 12:11:06 PM |
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Re: TanTan FM10 29/27.5+
Hi! I just found this site. Welcome, glad to hear from you. Your fix seems to be a pretty good workaround. Sucks that we have to modify things ourselves to get some added reliability, but small price in the grand scheme of things... The carbon itself appears to be pretty stout. I currently have two fixes for the broken shock bolt: #1, more of a preventitive measure, keeps the existing stock bolt in place. Instead of using spacers, I ordered a length of 1/2" OD .049 wall stainless tube for ten bucks on ebay. The inner diameter is a perfect fit to the 10mm shaft. I cut a section of tube to 54mm in length. Since the hardware now spans nearly the entire width from bearing to bearing, the bolt should be much less prone to breaking at the thinner center section. The shear strength is on the 10mm section of the bolt, not the center 8mm section. Youll need to use the trunnion mount inner washers on either side of the tube. #2 is similar to the fix mentioned earlier, and will help while you're waiting for replacement parts to arrive, assuming youve already broken the bolt. I'm using off the shelf 54x8mm mounting hardware, 8mm ID 2mm thick spacers, 8mm x 70mm sex bolt (or 5/16" x 3" bolt cut to length). And use drilled out alloy chainring bolts to fit the 8mm bolt in the 10mm inner bearing race. I'm still using the second option while I wait for the warranty replacement bolts, then I'll move to option 1 purely for aesthetics. I think both options are considerably stronger than the factory bolt, and neither is particularly expensive. August 17, 2020, 01:52:06 PM |
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