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Re: ceramic OSPW and BBs! There is no point in buying ceramic bearings, especially if you expect any sort of water/dirt ingress. Not sure why people keep believing this BS.
If you really want low losses, buy a proper low friction LU seal bearing from a reputable company (NOT no name chinese brand), swap it out, and expect to swap it out again shortly after it dies from contamination.

https://www.hambini.com/ceramic-bearings-vs-steel-bearings-an-engineering-analysis/

The ceramic pulley wheels that Trace velo bought were completely unsealed. Which means after a single ride you'd have more friction than an equivalent sealed steel bearing. I'm not sure if the OSPW are using the same bearings or not.

May 18, 2021, 05:12:11 PM
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet Received another M2 hub today, I'll post my measurements later. Asked for 36T/11s which they put, but did not add any grease.
There is a large amount of bearing friction on the cassette hub portion (bearings pressed together too hard?). This is not an issue for normal riding, only freewheeling you'll have extra resistance. On my first hub if you spin the wheel on the stand, the cranks will sometimes spin forward a bit. So I'm thinking this is the cause there.

Got the M2 hubs in too! Delivered with road body and 36t ratchet  :)
Now need to change the front to 12mm. The caps are on really tight, just to be sure: are they pull off type caps too?

Yes they are just pull off, held on with oring friction. Mine are not tight at all.
Where did you source the 12mm caps? I was just going to use a cylindrical 15mm adapter like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002107520669.html (36g)
This style looks similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917372157.html

But now that I look at the included 9mm QR caps, could be possible to drill those out for 12mm as well.

edit:
M2 Rear 142mm x 12mm 11s road
- Flange to flange = 53.9mm (LtoC = 36.25, RtoC = 17.65)
- PCD L = 46.5
- PCD R = 53.5
- Spoke offset = 0.8mm

M2 front 100mm x 15mm
- Flange to flange = 58.9mm (LtoC = 23, RtoC = 36)
- PCD L/R = 45.4
- Spoke offset = 0.8mm

The PCD is tough to measure. These numbers are close to the ones I linked a few pages back on ali. Only one that might be far off is spoke offset, need to double check that.

https://spokecalc.io/measuring-a-straight-pull-hub.html

June 01, 2021, 07:53:24 PM
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Re: Help selecting crankset Have you google "determine crankarm length"?

The typical recommendations are based on your height. Since its a 52mm frame, most likely you want 165mm, but 170mm might be ok too. The difference does not matter much in reality. Although too long can cause knee issues.

June 02, 2021, 03:19:12 PM
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Re: frame bearing tools Are you talking about blind pulling? What bearing sizes?
Probably have to get something automotive, then find a shim to protect the frame: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002766867744.html

June 25, 2021, 06:34:35 PM
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Re: Softail titanium MTB 29/27.5+ (all mountain - bikepacking)
I've pondered the idea quite a bit for my new gravel bike but in the end, decided to stick with a rigid fork. For my wife though, it's more of a necessity than a novelty. She's been suffering from neck issues for the past couple of years and has pretty much given up on mountain biking at this point. Even riding her Domane on gravel roads is a bit much. I'm hopeful that a drop bar bike with 700c*45mm tires and roughly 40mm of squish would be a great option for her. Just trying to get creative and see what I can come up with.

Yeah I had broken neck and went to 52mm tires to reduce the shocks and vibrations. The front tire can be bigger and softer. It helps a lot, although you still get bounce.
Suspension seatpost could be good to trial out if you want to add it to an existing frame: https://bikepacking.com/index/suspension-seatposts/
For bars there is also stuff like this: https://redshiftsports.com/products/shockstop-suspension-stem although personally I don't think I could use it, I just wrap lots of bar tape for now. That and gel type gloves.

June 25, 2021, 06:59:34 PM
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