Maybe this can eventually be made into a sticky once more info shows up.

I wanted to share some Axle info/experience.

I've had my 057 for almost 2 year now, have I would say, about 850 miles on it.  These are not easy miles, I'm about 220lbs "dry", have done some sprint races, 1 or 2, 20+ mile races and the rest just fun riding miles.  As some have seen, while not rooty and muddy, like East coast, it's dry, rutty, rocky out here, and I ride the same stuff I would on my Santa Cruz TallBoy LT, just a little slower.

From day 1 I've been using the axles supplied with the bike from Peter while at XMIPlay.  Both axles I've had come loose during a ride on me, the rear a couple times.  The front was maybe operator error, but the rear I know was set tight before heading out.  In addition to the axles coming loose, I've also had issues with the 12mm adaptors on my hubs (Novatex D882sb) coming loose.  During my race last week, both axle and adaptor loosened up enough that I began having shifting issues and probably 1-2mm play in the rear wheel. 

After this, I decided to resolve this issue once and for all and get a better axle.  I did a bunch of research and decided it would be DT Swiss, now the question was which one.....

The axle that I came up with as the solution is the DT Swiss RWS E-Thru.  This axle "appears" to include the nut.  I am in process of confirming, but when I originally received the axle it did NOT have a nut.  I contacted the vendor and they promptly supplied a nut, as mentioned I'm confirming if it's supposed to come with a nut or if they just supplied it to make good.

That said the supplied nut is nice, has 4 grooves, each the perfect size for the set screw to lock into.  I never had good luck locking down the China nut with the set screw.  The 4 grooves don't go all the way across, but stop short on the inner end allowing the set screw to lock the nut in place to prevent rotation, but also pulling out.

Here's what I ordered, and will update once I get confirmation if it was supposed to come with the nut or not.

http://www.jensonusa.com/DT-Swiss-RWS-E-Thru-Axle#brm-search?request_type=search&search_type=keyword&q=QR199a00&l=QR199a00

It's a front axle, not designed to take the place of a rear E-through axle.  It worked fine with my Rockshox Reba fork.

I get that, sorry, was relating experience purchasing a rear axle at the same time.

Questions are, what is the thread and length?  I have Carbon Rigid fork, using china supplied axle currently.  So I would need to find a compatible nut to work with it.

What is the thread?  Do you know if this will work on a standard China Rigid fork?  Will it use the China axle nut?


I just bought a DT Swiss E-Thru rear, did not come with a nut, but Jensen is supposed to ship another with a nut....  I hope.

Race that I did this past Thursday evening.  Wish I was a stronger climber, but I pace myself so I don't burn out on the first lap.  Problem is I get stuck behind people that are stronger climbers, but have much less technical ability.  Even on a Full Rigid, I'm faster than most of the guys and gals around me, but I think they are mostly roadies, so they climb well, but hold me up when things get technical.

I end up making a bad line choice and pushed further off when the guy in front of me bails on the climb right near the top, forcing me into a section with a stair step right at the top causing me to fall backwards.  Didn't land on my Ass, but came off the bike, nearly knocked the guy next to me down, but made a quick recovery.

Interesting.

Wonder what the weight is?  Although the one listed for sale is a 170 crank, I'd want a 175.

I have the Lizard Skins medium, but the large might be better fit.



I actually like the look of the Lezyne guard better, but they didn't have them in stock at my LBS when I did my build.


http://www.lezyne.com/product-orgnzrs-chainstyprotector.php#.V1Id3pErKUk

free uploader The crown race slides on without any effort, seems little loose. thought it should be really tight, is this ok?

With the split ring design, it will never be "tight".  I guess they can work, but certainly not prefered.  I had a split washer type that came OEM on my Santa Cruz TallBoy LT, I could never get the headset to stay tight, so I replaced the entire thing with a King headset, now now worries at all.  The original Cane Creak headset had a bunch of plastic pieces in it.  Not sure what the actual culprit was, but I'm much happier with the King, so much that I ordered another one for my Road Bike.  I guess I'm at an age and financial position that I can just drop some coin to have the best of some things.  Maybe not everything, but when talking $40 vs $140, I can do the $140.