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Messages - Takiyaki

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31
Someone put 38s on a 1056 "without issue"

https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2982.msg57684.html#msg57684

Though if you really want to guarantee big tire clearance it might be worth looking into gravel/cross frames.

32
I mean if you really just want to dip your toe into the disc brake thing, consider getting a disc fork + wheel + cable brake caliper for one of your rim brake road bikes.

33
Are these dual sided by some miracle? My DUB Zero PM only reports one side.

34
PS: really feels like we've reached peak bike, one really needs a trained eye to tell bikes apart...
I think we have just reached peak UCI restrictions but I have probably summoned a new level of pedantry from them..

Carbonda CFR 1056?


35
I dont buy my bikes on aliexpress and i've had several warranty issues / goodwill instances when my counterparts did the right thing. I've had 2 or 3 warranty / crash claims with Farsports, i've had velobuild send me their updated C rings free of charge, i've received wheels that were centerlock after ordering 6 bolt and received adaptors free of charge. I've had a derailleur replaced free of charge & received a bunch of freebies.

Long story short, there's more to dealing with chinese counterparts than aliexpress & assuming no warranty coverage. I'm the highest tier on aliexpress and usually (not always) they are helpful. I had a bad experience with Alibaba, they clearly gave no F about me, that was disappointing, but i'm not going to cry about it, after all they were sticking to their T&Cs.
In fact 2 weeks ago i ordered via aliexpress a replacement crank arm for cheap. I shouldn't have paid for it, but this seller is a dick and i'll do my best not to work with them again. Either way it should save my ass for cheap enough.

I guess my point is: build relationships with sellers you learn to trust. It's so much easier than it used to be to have clear discussions with them. Either they speak decent english now, or they use translation software that actually works. It used to be an uphill battle to make yourself understood. Now i feel i can ask very detailed questions and i usually get spot on answers.

Last: the vast majority of people still assume that if it's unbranded and chinese, it's poor quality. I have friends who to this day will not use an unbranded chinese bike out of fear of death. Sadly (?), some of them are actually highly educated people with engineering degrees placing them in the 0.01% of the population. Others are just Luddites. Which ties back to Factfulness, in fact.
Most of this forum exists to navigate issues around oval holes, unfaced brake mount surfaces, out of tolerance interfaces, and structural integrity of parts. Together, usually referred to as QC. Aka, quality... Aka, who to order from to minimize the chances of ordering a dud.
You're still kind of missing my point. Most people don't want to do all this research and build relationships with online vendors and all that. They just want to see and touch a bike, buy it and ride it. So if you want people to get more familiar and comfortable with Chinese brands, Chinese brands have to sell the same way as the big boys.

Personally I am not bothered if someone who knows nothing about Chinese brands thinks they are low quality death traps. It's not my job to educate strangers. I build bikes for myself, not to impress and educate random people.

36
I don't think the question is around the quality of Chinese bike parts; anyone who knows anything about how and where high end bikes are made already knows this.

The hurdle is in the purchasing process. Most people don't want to go on an Aliexpress wild goose chase w/no warranty coverage. Even more streamlined direct to consumer stuff like Winspace and Yoeleo is still kind of fringe. So if the Chinese want to really have a presence in the mainstream Western bike market they need brick and mortar stores with no nonsense warranty coverage. That would really accelerate the price war with the major brands though, especially if the Chinese stuff is in the same stores.

But again I feel like Chinese brands are OK with their current direct to consumer model. They pass on the risk to brands they sell to as OEMs as well as to us consumers. Look at all the pain and agony the Western brands are going through right now.

37
I wish this came in 165mm.

38
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Carbonda Cfr 1056
« on: March 28, 2024, 06:04:23 AM »
I think tires will have a bigger impact on comfort than the frame. This frame will fit 32c tires so if you need max comfort go that route.

39
Have you considered going disc with cable? That will let you keep everything rim brake except the calipers/wheels, and give you substantially more tire clearance.

Velobuild's VB-R-066 comes in rim brake and disc and meets a lot of your requirements. I would still lean towards disc. Yes you will need a new wheelset too but that's an opportunity to really lean into the width. You can even get MTB wheels if aero is not a concern. Then use your rim brake groupset with something like Juin Tech F1 calipers. Something to think about

40
I think they are OK with being fringe as long as they can make some money. Seems like Chinertown type brands don't need OEM volume to stay in business.

41
All 4 of my EDS OX derailleurs have the removable batteries.   To date, the removable batteries last a long time, over 600 miles of riding for me with lots of shifting.

OTOH: Weird things have been happening.  Yesterday, I went out on a snow ride on a bike I haven't ridden it about a month.  The bike was shifting OK, but I though that I would swap to a charged battery to be sure that the battery on the bike might be low on charge.  I swapped to a supposedly fully charged battery.  It wouldn't shift. No lights.  Swapped to another battery.  This battery didn't shift the derailleur either.  Put the original one back one and rode, leaving the other 2 on their chargers.   Then swapped one of the freshly charged battery onto the derailleur and it worked.  Now I am wondering why 2 fully charged batteries were drained of power after sitting around on a shelf for a month after last being charged. 

Regarding the fixed battery.  I am sure you can put a routine in place where you use your Wheeltop app on your phone to check the % charge / # of shifts left.   If you see the battery is below your charge comfort level, you can top it off. 

I wonder too, if the magnetic charging cable charges the battery while the derailleur is in operation.  One could secure the charge cable to the frame and use a battery bank to charge the battery while riding.  (Anyone test this?)
Issue for me would be that batteries eventually die which would render the whole derailleur useless. I'm surprised nobody has used something like a 18650 cylinder battery. Slap a waterproof case in the down tube and put a charge port on the derailleur. Battery (or batteries) die, you go grab another one on Amazon or whatever. This is a deal breaker for me

42
There are a lot of open mold frames that... let's say "draw inspiration".... from big brand frames. The most obvious one is the SL7 and it's probably worth keeping a list of those with all their subtle differences, but I wanted to reference some others I've found and keep a thread going.

Inspiration: Canyon Endurace


Open mold versions: Velobuild VB-R-066/OG EVKIN CF-025



Notes: Velobuild available in rim or disc brake config. I think the Velobuild version is a good bit lighter than OG EVKIN's.

Inspiration: Cervelo R5


Open mold version: Tantan FM6x9 (609, 619, 629, 639)


Notes: the geometry is EXACTLY the same lmao. Also available in rim & disc versions as well as half vs fully internal cabling (I wanna say 639 = fully integrated).

I know the TT-X38 is "inspired by" the newest Scott Foil but I'm too lazy to dig all those photos up. But you get the gist. If I had the time I'd start a website to capture all this open mold data. Finding info is a real pain in the ass

43
All of these brands need photos of these frames built up (preferably in a range of colors and sizes)

44
Man this is deep. I am by no means a headset expert. But on my FM208, I loosen the stem bolts on the fork tube, then squeeze the fork and stem together with a long c-clamp (and wood block on the stem). That takes out all the vertical slack. Then I tighten the stem bolts. That has seemed to take out all the vertical slack. I admittedly did not put the bike together but I have taken the stem off a few times.

45
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TPU vs Latex innertube
« on: March 17, 2024, 07:56:39 AM »
I'm still torn. Latex is def cheaper and easier to install but for me they never held air for more than a day. I think they'd lose pressure on a long (for me) ride. I'm gonna try tubeless and see what happens

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