I bought Magene's QED crankset with direct-mount chainrings before it got pulled from the markets. Horrible experience, Magene bungled the design and they would bend and become permanently deformed from normal pedaling loads. Magene's warranty department was useless and asked me to delete my chinertown thread on the issue to cover up their screw-up. The most I got from this was a new chainring, which bent again. My experience might be part of the reason why that product got pulled from the shelves in the first place.

Even worse, they have a proprietary chainring interface and no aftermarket spider or alternative chainrings, which means I am completely fucked and have a $500 brick of a crankset. In summary, be thankful they learned from their mistakes and aren't making DM chainrings anymore.

I know the spider based PMs are great, PES is great, and their accessories are great, but damn do I feel bitter about Magene after my QED experience.

oh wow. Asking you to delete threads on here is really something. i guess public forums really are important consumer protection / decision tools.

Hi!
Love the tractor idea. Do you mind to share the decal masters?

Thanks

not at all, DM me. I used inkscape because it's free and YT recommended it. So the file is .svg, from memory.

i would say 32mm wide, 50mm deep. Or even 34mm wide. I guess a vote on the forum could be useful.
I think 50mm is deep enough without being too deep for most guys in most situations. If you sell a lot to women & small riders, then maybe a shallower version too.
if 32mm wide, 30C tyre is probably idea, but you can probably be fine with both a 28C as well as 32C.
If 34mm wide, you can put 30 or 32C and should have a perfect tyre to rim transition.
I think steel bearings are fine because to my best knowledge, ceramic bearings for cycling applications make no sense.
No wavy rims.

Some updates. The included lower headset bearing lasted less than 3500km. Bike have now 5500km in total. Will switch to 30mm Continental GP5000 S TR from 25mm and see how it handles.
F frame instead of F12 frame would be fun to try.

Thank you for this thread and for keeping it updated, it's very helpful. I have very mixed feelings about riding fakes, but it's good to know that the people selling fakes aren't automatically selling garbage.

Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.

Exactly... Until everything went to shit i was saying the stuff's amazing.
I charged / tried to charge my group last night after it died yesterday. Charged all night. This morning it was at 77%. Plugged into the wall, no funny business. So... idk. I doubt it's supposed to take more than 12h to fully charge. Which then means there's something that's not working properly. But i'm not in the mood to try to figure it out now.
i have put 3500km on the er9 on my road bike since Feb24.

Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.

I installed the old design on 5 bikes, and i cracked one non drive side arm at 6 or 7nm. Racework is largely useless to deal with. They made so many mistakes in my order with them that i can't remember the exact count. Beyond the cranks, i bought 12s chains from them, they sent me 11s, the bar tape they sold me is the absolute worst i've ever used, and more. They refused to warranty anything, including the crank arm even though it was low torque (they dont tell you what torque to use, btw), but i managed to buy a replacement one for cheap enough - abnormal, but at least i still have 5 cranksets to use and not 4, for now anyway -.
We've put around 5k km on all these cranksets so far, i'd say. to avoid cracking more crank arms, i'm using 5nm and an obscene amount of threadlock. It's been working.
Either way they updated the non drive side design.
I wouldn't recommend them, goes without saying, but to be fair, i'm happy with the cranksets as long as it's not broken - kind of like i'm happy with my ltwoo er9 when it's not broken, the problem being that out of 5, 2 broke for no reason -, and their 3d printed saddles are nice too.