For the 105 R7000 mechanical front derailleur, what works for me with these frames is running the cable housing all the way to the FD's cable stopper (see attached image for reference). Then I use any of these clips from Amazon or AliExpress for the cable housing/frame body interface.
I use the 105 R7000 FD for all my mechanical build no matter the RD or crankset. Cheap and very easy for me to work with.

Hi, do you have pics of actual builds? Very curious about your method, because i've built 4 chinese frames recently, and the FD has been far the biggest issue every time. I thought the housing had to push against the frame, then comes the cable. But it sounds you're running the housing all the way to the FD.
Please enlighten us, i think a lot of people are having issues with their FDs
Thanks!

Im running 25’s. I got PLENTY of room. Probably could run 32’s comfortably, but i have no desire to find out as its a road bike.

Having ridden back to back Conti 5000 28 and 32 on similar spec wheels, i'd say, don't dismiss 32C. Peak Torque has tested that assuming your rims are extra wide (32mm, presumably), there's no aero penalty, and no rolling resistance penalty to running 32.
The difference in comfort is so stark that i'm looking for a road bike that can comfortably run 32C.

How's the bike been holding up? I like the design, Trek is one of the rare brands that's not making "everybody else's frame".

Very nice. Looks indistinguishable from a VB GF002, doesnt it? How much did you pay for the frame w shipping?

I mean how likely is it that they would produce Syncros branded bottle cage bolts for a fake frame? Can’t be sure. But I think the photos are showing the real thing.

if i were making fakes... it's one of the cheapest ways to make your stuff look legit. Or maybe the bolts are legit. I was in China eons ago, there were shops selling branded paper bags and branded logos in various formats. Some with authentic spelling mistakes, it was hilarious. There's also a big market for authentic branded bags and boxes, precisely because it's cheap, but gives a veneer of authenticity to the fake product.
Thieves are often creative people.

My 5 cents as someone who's building several velobuild bikes atm, have ordered 6 carbon wheelsets over the years, have been using aliexpress carbon handlebars for years, weighs c.80kg, have never ridden gravel, sucks at MTB, and essentially only does road cycling:
Velobuild GF003 (it's very finished and looks super sturdy)
Sensah or Ltwo 1x (for your weight & steep stuff i think a 1x with the biggest cassette you can fit is best. It's very easy to run out of gears on a 2x setup)
I have had good experience with Farsports wheels, if you contact them directly by email you can configure a lower priced option than what they advertise (get Sapim spokes, the rest, afaik, doesnt matter too much. Get wide gravel rims). Buy from whomever though.
Spend money on good tyres, that correspond to the type of riding you will do most.
Steep + heavy = hydraulic, most probably? My builds are mechanical with Jagwire KEB-SL housing, but i havent riddem them yet so i can't speak of breaking performance. Although if you use mechanical + Jagwire KEB-SL brake housing + don't route everything internally (maybe route the front brake externally around the handlebars then into the frame to limit awkward angles) + 160 rotors (or more?), you're probably going to get a bike that brakes very well.

Budget wise, you should be below 2k. Not sure if you can get to 1.5k. Maybe 1.5k + shipping?

Now i may sing a different tune after i've ridden these VB frames, but so far, handling them, they look solid. You're heavy but i think we'd hear more horror stories if carbon frames kept breaking like matches. I have friends who ride mountain bikes like pro riders, i would not recommend them anything unbranded because i know they push equipment to the limits & racers should race race cars. Meanwhile, you're "just" heavy. If you hit a big ass pothole, you're more at risk of breaking your gear, but idk if this risk is materially higher using a velobuild frame and good wheels. If you pick aluminium wheels, the bike wont feel as nice, but they will be somewhat bulletproof and much cheaper. Something you could upgrade later on maybe depending on feel?

Happy riding!

My 5 cents from someone who's bought 7 carbon wheel sets: get Sapim spokes (ideally, Xray) over Pillar. They cost a bit more but if you plan to actually use the bike, the difference is meant to be worth it. Better ride quality, lighter, less prone to mechanical failure.
The hubs probably matter less. Ceramic bearings are utterly unnecessary. I've had novatec hubs forever, they just work. You don't want hubs that need constant maintenance.

Has anyone else had issues with water ingress? I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell, but this seems like a perfect way to start a crack.

My unqualified opinion says: don't worry too much about causing a crack when drilling. Be careful, take your time, but you're not going to cause your frame to crack by drilling a small hole or 2 in the BB area.

I find my interest in AliExpress parts has started to wane. I do like the carbon components, but other than that I still would rather stick with name brand drivetrain parts even if I have to wait for discount sales or buy used domestically.

Same here. Prices have been going up a lot. Now they have to charge VAT to the EU, that didn't help, but on top of that, prices are often so high that you can spend virtually the same amount buying from a legit european online bike shop. Very disappointing. Aliexpress used to be cheap stuff that usually worked, sometimes didn't, but if it's not cheap anymore...