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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.

My advice would be to forgo the reach and stack to match your current bikes and just set the seat based on the larger size. Others have fallen into the trap you are leaning toward and it hasn’t worked out. You want to be in this bike: long, low, and slack. Matching the reach and stack isn’t critical important on a MTB. You move and constantly adjust your body based on several factors. You want to be low in this bike, not high on it. ;)

November 05, 2020, 03:06:57 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.
Just curious, what are your other 2 bikes?  Here's some potential perspective.  Take the example that you get a bike fit on a road bike, the fit is done on a stationary trainer.  There will be an ideal saddle height, set back, and tilt to maximize power and minimize discomfort.  This is important because you are always seated in the same position and grades are not as steep as MTB trails.  For an MTB, the "perfect" pedal position is less important in general because you're constantly moving around and shifting your weight, therefore the best position is a balance between good fit and weight balance.  Now what if you redid your bike fit, but you lifted the front tire up enough to match a 5 or 10% grade?  You'd push the saddle forward to compensate, since the STA gets slacker.  It's true that when you go back to flat ground, it's a compromised position, but if your trails are constant up and down, does that matter?  Take this with a grain of salt, the new style geometry isn't for everyone.  I'd bet that a bike with a 69 deg HTA and 73 deg STA would be faster on flatter XC trails than the newer bikes with 66 deg HTA and 76 deg STA, especially tight courses.  But if that's what your trails are like and you want the perfect pedaling position on flat ground, then this likely isn't the bike for you.  If you downsize and push the saddle back, you'll just end up with a rearward weight balance, it'll be hard to weight the front tire in corners and won't feel right.  The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.

November 05, 2020, 08:55:34 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Hi Quentin and thanks for your answer.

I want to keep my actual position on the new frame which I find perfect,  it would not be a problem even if the seat tube is 4 cm shorter, I just need to set my saddle 10 mm backwards.
The thing is, that this frame in M has a 30 mm longer reach than my Scalpel in L which is perfect if I want to build it with a shorter Stem
but in L it is 55mm longer .
Also the wheelbase in M is 50 mm longer than the Scalpel in L, the L would be a huge 100 mm difference.
The kind of riding I mostly do is agressive XC an marathon races so a reactive bike would be more of my taste.
If you want to keep your current position like on the Scalpel, keep the Scalpel! This frame has a completely different approach and you seem not wanting to live with it. The FM936 is true to size. If you run L in your other bikes, also use an L with this frame!
You asked for advice and everyone told you to get the L, but it seems you don't want to listen. Your body size and saddle height screams for the L. But if you want the M so badly, take the M, but don't blame anybody but you if you don't like it.
If I read through your comments I'd suggest not to buy this frame at all. It's not what you're looking for.

November 05, 2020, 11:28:43 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Here is Patxi Cia's bike, a Spanish xc racer which is built with the same approach (xc/xcm aggressive riding). He is shorter (1'75 mtrs) and rides a S size.

A 9'8kg rocket

Hahaha !  :o A "downcountry" bike downsized with a 120mm stem ? I think it is the worst idea for both handling and power.
As acedeuce802 said : The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.

If you play around with that, it will be shitty for sure. Long stem with slack HTA is a terrible idea for downhill handling.
As well as saddle set up backward is a bad idea for uphill.

Back 10 years ago, every body were riding 650mm handlebar. On modern geo 29" bikes, nobody would do that.
You are entering the future of xc geo, do not be afraid, forgot your old bike geometry and take a L you won't regret it  ;D

PS : spanish people are not tall. A L in Spain is a M in France and S in Denmark   :-X

November 06, 2020, 02:45:47 AM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts It is clear that they changed the front triangle A LOT : 67° seat angle and 77° head angle  ;D
November 11, 2020, 12:59:40 PM
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Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Maybe I'm not getting it, but the current FM936 has 67° and 77° STA and HTA. Both drop a degree when going to a 120/120.

There is a typo on their geometry image.

November 11, 2020, 02:35:20 PM
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Re: Peter @ Carbon Speed  ;) Guys, now you have me back. Just contact me and let me know if you guys have any request.
November 12, 2020, 09:34:04 AM
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Re: Peter @ Carbon Speed
;) Guys, now you have me back. Just contact me and let me know if you guys have any request.
Welcome back m8

November 12, 2020, 09:36:39 AM
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Re: List of Full Suspension MTB Frames If you look around in this forum, you will find a recent conversation saying there was no full sus Ti frames from the direct-from-China Ti builders(yet). Just hardtails, gravel or road.

To have an idea of the current hot frames look at:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/board,8.0.html
The FM936, with its new geometry, is the most popular right now.

November 18, 2020, 12:13:56 AM
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Re: Full sus xc non boost frameset? I would look for a 6mm boost kit (like this one https://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/booster_-_k5144) and redish the wheel. This will make your transmission work properly again and only your disc is spaced 6mm.
November 20, 2020, 12:53:00 AM
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