Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: eucalyptus on July 07, 2022, 12:40:12 PM
-
Hey
I received a custom-ordered TFSA JH-33 frame a.k.a copy of the Tarmac SL7. I asked for no shifter holes so they plugged the rear and the bottom service hatch, although they still left a big hole next to the front derailleur mount which was bolted on.... WTF had to drill it out.
Anyhow, the frame is insanely light at 825 grams for a medium size 54. Not much heavier than the S-works which costs $5500 USD. Although I have some minor, maybe major issues I would like to address and ask for your opinion about.
First of the fork which is quite light for an uncut aero profile! The bearing is seated directly on the fork without a collar which I find kinda weird, especially since the seat looks very weird IMO. Or what would you say? They shipped it with IS52 bearing 45/45, one 7mm thick and the other 8mm. I have ordered FSA SL MR128R lightweight alloy 7mm bearings to replace with.
Secondly, the front axle is too short. Only covers half the thread which is terrible! Additionally, the axles are threaded internally to attach a bolt/nut thing to the end. I've never seen anything like it before.
The facing for the brake mount is not properly done judging it to my other bikes, one being an Italian-made Basso. Trying to mount a brake caliper and it is just not sitting very well.
Same thing with the dropouts, they are so thin that the wheel hubs barely have anything to rest on!!! Does not feel very safe at all.
I have contacted a professional carbon expert to have him look over the frame which I pray will be ridable. Does not look like it right now and definitely not feels like it.
More pictures to come in addtional posts.
(https://i.imgur.com/YazIPh1.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2vGJCE3.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RDNfpc1.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r77P7GP.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AddXhy2.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j58iVDI.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qeq75r8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W6ZQm9x.jpeg)
-
If someone knows how I can put pictures in SPOILER then please let me know...
Dropout and caliper mounts
(https://i.imgur.com/hWaj4C8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dj0ccZs.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jnTPNIX.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P462BvA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NjNeaPQ.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y7zTe8z.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9APyR07.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KF3HgkH.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VrAurJI.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4KO8Ifj.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7M7IsdY.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4DnuDak.jpeg)
-
The derailleur hanger is two-piece but the carbon piece holding it all together is extremely thin!!! Like how is this gonna hold up. With a cut-out for the hanger to "hang on to" which you can see in the pictures.
(https://i.imgur.com/nGsdqpT.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yFu25Eb.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ2sxpl.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tm8E7Ag.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GSs2kOA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZMvMvz9.jpeg)
-
The front hanger is mounted with rivets which is a terrible idea. Would have appreciated screws as I may want to use it in the future, had to take it off.
(https://i.imgur.com/O4yeRG3.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yNkfHsi.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z4yPaS6.jpeg)
-
The frame is raw carbon but kinda scratched. It is very smooth but still looks scratched, the idea is to have the frame half painted and half only varnish with raw carbon finish. The frame is going to a painter later, what do I need to do, to prepare the frame? Use finer grit sandpaper to remove scratches or what is it gonna look like with a gloss varnish coat ?
The compression ring that came with the frame really looks a lot like the previous "recall" ring that Specialized first had with the SL7. What is your opinion, does it look safe to use, or is it too thin and sharp? It was extremely sharp at first, just filed off the worst edges.
The integrated one-piece handlebar is "THE ONE PRO HANDLEBAR" from aliexpress, but was purchased directly from the manufacturer on Alibaba. Of course, its aero profile does not fit the frame spacer set. As I want to slam it, my idea is to run it as pictured but to cut out a 2mm thin piece of metal and act as a support between the two. Also to cover up the holes and such. I have given it a lot of thought and this is the solution I found to be the most reasonable and least complicated.
(https://i.imgur.com/HSYIL0a.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iHA3ysU.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jXzMfug.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4sO2AkR.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z24f9f3.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3XDmx7s.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WbRtFd7.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zLDus0O.jpeg)
-
The original spacer that came with the bar, the compression ring is just way too thick. It is made for frames with a dropped/lowered bearing 5mm below the edge.
Picture of the axle, I need to order a longer front axle from Aliexpress. Have to look what J&L has to offer.
Seatpost is ridiculously heavy and stupidly designed, like the original SL7 saddle mount. Will have to check with Berk about making a custom one as the real SL7 post won't fit. This one looks shorter than the real post and not as narrow/aero.
The clamp is made of plastic and actually very light, dropped the weight from 23 to 19.7 with a titanium screw.
(https://i.imgur.com/CvbFdyA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jde3qee.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f7n7asI.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hvqr3Ti.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/29KzK3o.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tJlPZkg.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tqKKofq.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KqVjFiK.jpeg)
-
Picture of the axle, I need to order a longer front axle from Aliexpress.
Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.
Seatpost is ridiculously heavy and stupidly designed, like the original SL7 saddle mount. Will have to check with Berk about making a custom one as the real SL7 post won't fit.
It's a little porky but nothing crazy. Respectfully, if you are buying a frame like this I very much doubt that comissioning a custom molded post from Berk is in your price range. It'll likely dramatically exceed the price you paid for the frame.
The frame is going to a painter later, what do I need to do, to prepare the frame? Use finer grit sandpaper to remove scratches or what is it gonna look like with a gloss varnish coat ?
Wipe the frame with a wet cloth. That'll give you some idea what a clear coat will look like when applied. Ask your painter how they want the frame prepped or if they prefer to do it themselves. A roughly 600 to 800 grit finish is often a good place to start painting from.
The front hanger is mounted with rivets which is a terrible idea. Would have appreciated screws as I may want to use it in the future, had to take it off.
This is incredibly common, especially on road race bikes. You are lucky they didn't employ good practice and glue it as well. Rivets are also lighter than screws.
Dropout and caliper mounts
Yeah, the facing looks shit or non-existent. I've also seen very expensive, named brand frames with shit facing.
The derailleur hanger is two-piece but the carbon piece holding it all together is extremely thin!!! Like how is this gonna hold up. With a cut-out for the hanger to "hang on to" which you can see in the pictures.
It does look a little on thin side but doesn't immediately strike fear in my heart.
The bearing is seated directly on the fork without a collar which I find kinda weird
It's extremely common if you are trying to make a lightweight fork and is present on many modern road bike forks. Some BMC forks probably have the most pronounced implementation of this. This allows the manufacturer to have a straigher fibre path. Trying to make a flat surface for a metal race to sit on results in stress risers and necessitates the use of more material.
-
That's surprisingly light! I'm curious to hear of you end up riding it.
-
These are designed to fit the one pro bars to sl7 frames
I know theyre available on taobao but im not sure if theyre sold on aliexpress or anywhere else
-
Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.
I'm super curious to see what the spacing is; this really does look like a terribly (but still kinda well???) made thru axle or you are now the owner of a boost-spaced road fork :o
I agree with St0mpB0x; there's a few things they did that aren't that bad, but a few items that I'd be sketched out on. Speaking as a retired mechanic who has occasionally ridden some questionable setups!
Re: your idea about a simple adapter for the barstem/headset cap interface, I'd keep it at least 2 mm thick as you said. You want to be careful it doesn't warp/flex.
Really interested to see how this project turns out! Are you going for a 1x road bike or.... ss?!
-
These are designed to fit the one pro bars to sl7 frames
I know theyre available on taobao but im not sure if theyre sold on aliexpress or anywhere else
Wow this is exactly what I need ;D ;D
Cannot find anything on Ali, texted a few sellers, some are just sending regular spacers and another one sent a link to Emonda/Madone spacers.
Perhaps I could have something 3D printed similar to that, I will see :) Not sure the compression ring I have would work with the one you pictured, but I am happy to swap to something else.
Thanks a lot!
-
Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.
It's a little porky but nothing crazy. Respectfully, if you are buying a frame like this I very much doubt that comissioning a custom molded post from Berk is in your price range. It'll likely dramatically exceed the price you paid for the frame.
Wipe the frame with a wet cloth. That'll give you some idea what a clear coat will look like when applied. Ask your painter how they want the frame prepped or if they prefer to do it themselves. A roughly 600 to 800 grit finish is often a good place to start painting from.
This is incredibly common, especially on road race bikes. You are lucky they didn't employ good practice and glue it as well. Rivets are also lighter than screws.
Yeah, the facing looks shit or non-existent. I've also seen very expensive, named brand frames with shit facing.
It does look a little on thin side but doesn't immediately strike fear in my heart.
It's extremely common if you are trying to make a lightweight fork and is present on many modern road bike forks. Some BMC forks probably have the most pronounced implementation of this. This allows the manufacturer to have a straigher fibre path. Trying to make a flat surface for a metal race to sit on results in stress risers and necessitates the use of more material.
Thanks for your input, very appreciated :) I will check the spacing tonight with my road wheels. Measured the rear yesterday with the axle fully threaded and it measured 142mm exactly.
Alright, I have just never seen rivets on a bike before. Well, never used a front mech either haha. The frame is smooth, really smooth. It is just the "scratches" well they are only visually scratches and it is the visual appearance I care most for. Will try the wet cloth!
The facing may be shit because the frame is coming directly from the mould, I never considered that before. I mean I asked for a frame like this, just thought the facing would be better. But that is possible to fix now, right? A carbon professional should be able to fix it I think, or I hope so at least. How it is done, I have no idea.
I hear you on the fork and bearing. My Basso uses a tapered fork like this, but that one have a really thin aluminum spacer between bearing and fork. What do you think of the fit judging by the pictures? Looks like a small gap, it is not seated on the bottom of the collar.
About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost. But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it
-
I'm super curious to see what the spacing is; this really does look like a terribly (but still kinda well???) made thru axle or you are now the owner of a boost-spaced road fork :o
I agree with St0mpB0x; there's a few things they did that aren't that bad, but a few items that I'd be sketched out on. Speaking as a retired mechanic who has occasionally ridden some questionable setups!
Re: your idea about a simple adapter for the barstem/headset cap interface, I'd keep it at least 2 mm thick as you said. You want to be careful it doesn't warp/flex.
Really interested to see how this project turns out! Are you going for a 1x road bike or.... ss?!
Yup I will see 2 or 3mm, I have a few sheets laying around at my parents place. Otherwise I will pick something up, Aliexpress offers a few different carbon sheets too. Good that you mentioned warp/flex, did not put that much thought before you mentioned it, now I definitely see the consequences of a flexing spacer :o
I bought the S-works Aethos expander, 44mm at 17.4 grams. But it is hollow in the middle, which will leave the bar only half supported. Also purchased the Deda elementi HSS 70 (60mm contact surface) expander at 39 grams which will support the entire headset.
1x road bike yes sir! I have done 1x road for some time now, and a few friends too. Works great. Using oval 48 x 10/50 today, a friend with the same gearing uses a 52T up front. Another one riding a Tarmac SL7 uses 46 x 10-36 and it seems to work fine. We live in a very hilly area, 100m elevation for every 10 km.
I will make a proper build post once everything is sorted :) Aiming for sub 7 kg which should be doable with some fancy parts
-
About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost. But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it
Ah, is this a placeholder frame for unused parts?
Your particular model costs 3.2K RMB in China and the brand's other Rim brake models cost as little as 2.55K RMB so on par with VB.
-
The facing may be shit because the frame is coming directly from the mould, I never considered that before. I mean I asked for a frame like this, just thought the facing would be better. But that is possible to fix now, right? A carbon professional should be able to fix it I think, or I hope so at least. How it is done, I have no idea.
About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost. But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it
Yeah, you don't even need to see a carbon professional. You'll just need to find a shop with a disc brake facing tool. They cost about $1k USD so very few shops are willing to invest in one although they probably should given the finish quality of many frames.
I'd be stunned if a one off post from Berk/Darimo cost less than $2k USD. I'd love to pleasantly surprised though.
-
Update concerning the fork!
Measured the dropouts, 102.5 mm which is kinda weird, not sure if this happens to other bikes? Thinking about asking for a new fork hoping this is a unique case. Measured my Basso fork, EXACTLY 100mm.
Axle not looking that terrible anymore, still a few millimeters short and very unusual design.
See pictures
(https://i.imgur.com/L7azRFq.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Cg6PGeU.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oHbaSKN.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AgGmAET.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JZIVdxr.jpeg)
-
These are designed to fit the one pro bars to sl7 frames
I know theyre available on taobao but im not sure if theyre sold on aliexpress or anywhere else
It is now available on Alie
But 62USD + 5 shipping is crazy for a piece of plastic :o
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003795421114.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3ba838daRsRMNJ&gps-id=shoppingCartRecommend&scm=1007.13440.276583.0&scm_id=1007.13440.276583.0&scm-url=1007.13440.276583.0&pvid=3d690326-7f6c-400b-8dff-190d031ef4c7&_t=gps-id:shoppingCartRecommend,scm-url:1007.13440.276583.0,pvid:3d690326-7f6c-400b-8dff-190d031ef4c7,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000027189903762%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%223440%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21SEK%21%21167.86%21%21%21%21%21%40210312ec16575254829097607e5f88%2112000027189903762%21rec
-
Sorry, off topic but id like to know what are your thought on the bars? Ive been considering the one pro bars for a while too. And the manufacturer direct price makes them even more tempting.. have you weighed them yet? Also, do they come with two sets of headset covers or something? In this screenshot from the alibaba page, they list type one and type two
-
Sorry, off topic but id like to know what are your thought on the bars? Ive been considering the one pro bars for a while too. And the manufacturer direct price makes them even more tempting.. have you weighed them yet? Also, do they come with two sets of headset covers or something? In this screenshot from the alibaba page, they list type one and type two
Hey thats alright :) There is ZERO information about this bar on the internet so I understand your curiosity! I was gonna save it to later as I am gonna do a huge build thread once I got all pieces together.
But here you go :) This one, I bought directly from the manufacturer on Alibaba it cost me $112 USD on Alibaba + $27 in taxes charged by Alibaba. I then got taxed again but only $11 on Swedish customs borders (main cost is a fee). Seller put value declaration of $11. After some hassle with Alibaba support and tax return request, I then got the $27 back as I was charged twice :)
Weight is pretty decent for a 400x100mm bar. I was first gonna buy the Roval Alpinist as it is only 233 gram for same size, but this one is hundred times more AERO + it got a small degree of flare which is exactly what I was looking for + fully integrated wiring.
I was sceptical at first, cheap bar, no information etc. But WOW!! Not ridden it yet, but my god it feels sturdy in hand. Doesn't matter how much pressure of force I use try to twist it. It is rock solid super stiff.
Finish is TOP NOTCH! I have two 3T aeroghiaia bars which retail €349 euro a piece at 240 gram, they are way more flexy than this one. But they have the same high quality finish. Carbon inside looks very decent and the matte paint is very good. If you put this next to anything else I couldn't tell it was only a hundred bucks.
My intention is to remove the paint and just run naked raw carbon with clearcoat.
350 grams including stem screws and mount (it uses two M6 hex screws and a pushplate against the steerer).
The internal nut fasterners for computer mount works fine too, the classic matte 3K carbon computer mount from Aliexpress works perfect for this application.
The handlebar comes with a few spacers inluding both of the two headset pieces you pictured above. BUT!!!! bear in mind, please go back to my other pictures and you will see that the included compression ring ONLY works with frames with a recessed headset bearing. My bearing is leveled with the frame, hence it will not work as the compression ring is way too thick, therefore I will/have come up with a custom solution that I will try later on.
There are, as discussed earlier in the thread, custom pieces you can buy from one seller on AliE for different frame models. But they charge $63 USD for a Tarmac SL7 adapter which is ridiculous for a plastic piece considering the entire bar is just twice the price.
Again, it is incredible stiff by my judgement. There is just no way I can put any flex in it by twisting the bar ends.
!!! AND a very important thing to notice!! I bought the 400mm wide version, but they measure C-C bar ends. So the real measurement is 385mm C-C hood to hood. Which is perfect for me as I like it narrow, but maybe not for all.
So if you are using a 400 bar and want 400mm hood to hood, go up one size :)
Here is the link to the manufacturer, the ones on Aliexpress are just re-sellers with branding. There is also a gravel version of the same bar with wider bar ends. As Alibaba is usually, mainly B2B, I chose the "samle version" to only buy one handlebar.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal_1600457733782.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I
(https://i.imgur.com/aFiDYW3.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YjjbQXZ.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OiIePxp.jpeg)
-
very detailed review. highly appreciated!
the bars sound good. i was tossing up between these and the seka intergrated bars. my friend told me they weigh 325g(but i cant find this listed on their website nor taobao) and will cost me around $260 from taobao. i think i will choose these in the end
thanks again!!
-
Any Updates on this one? I'm considering a comparable build, but the seatpost keeps me away from this frame atm. There's only a setback version and it seems not suitable for carbon railed saddles.
Btw: TFSA JH33 = TanTan X33 = Seraph X33 = Trifox X18 (and maybe more to add)
-
There is some work in progress! Things are moving slowly as there is A LOOOOT of work to do.
I received the frame back 2 weeks ago from my carbon builder in Sweden. He did 4 areas of work on the frame, he fixed the uneven area around the BSA BB. My new BBinifnite BB only touched half the frame once fully tighten. Now after I got it fixed it touches at least 90-95% which is a big improvement.
He also removed the front derailleur and covered up all the holes with UD carbon. He did the same thing with the front right axle mount, so not the axle mount is not visible looking at the fork, it is entirely covered up.
He then improved and increased the strength of the frame where the rear derailleur hanger is mounted. He added a few thin layers of carbon weave to make it like 0.5mm thicker. Not much, but it is an improvement over the thin piece that came from the factory.
Some final words, he said the frame was very well-made and did not see any major death traps. How close he looked, I do not know.
I bought new FSA SL MR128R bearings which are a lot lighter than original, the fit is quite poor so adding a layer of tin foil around the bearings is kinda sorting this problem. I also bought new J&L Thru axles, original is 120xm1.0 + 160m1.0. Front axle is definitely too short, the new J&L is 121 and 163mm, so I will have to file down the rear axle a tiny bit.
Pictures will come as everything is done and I have had the time to make a build projekt thread :)
-
Here are some sneak peaks of what is going on at the moment.
I rebuilt the entire headset. The SL7 is supposed to have the baseplate + a top cover which builds a lot of stack, around 15mm?
I removed the top covered and added support to the baseplate to increase strength as the support for the steerer tube is SO SMALL/THIN!! Looks insane how thin and poor support it initially is, you can wiggle the entire thing around the steerer. Now it is a much closer fit and increased area supporting the steerer. I cut out my new custom top cover from 3mm carbon by hand using a dremel with 22m diamond discs. Took around 4 hours maybe as it was a lot going back and forth manually with files to get a perfect fit and finish.
At the moment I am rebuilding the entire seatpost. I cut off the top part and used a dremel to remove waste material and now in the progress to rebuild it using regular hardware. Original weight was 193g, I am aiming for maybe 150g :) Which would be really great for a proprietary seatpost.
Should be mentioned, I cut the fork steerer closer to where I think it will be finished. Surprise surprise, it is soooooo uneven wall thickness. UNCUT it looks alright, cut part is terrible. This is definitely alarming, if I am gonna die, I do not know. Is it a death trap? Seller says it is fine and only delaminated forks are replaced.
(https://i.imgur.com/7JDrgYZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u3i0Qnk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8SOygGf.jpg)
UNCUT
(https://i.imgur.com/LoS6VoN.jpg)
CUT
(https://i.imgur.com/e730DAu.jpg)
-
Insane work, keep us updated!
-
The frame is raw carbon but kinda scratched. It is very smooth but still looks scratched, the idea is to have the frame half painted and half only varnish with raw carbon finish. The frame is going to a painter later, what do I need to do, to prepare the frame? Use finer grit sandpaper to remove scratches or what is it gonna look like with a gloss varnish coat ?
The compression ring that came with the frame really looks a lot like the previous "recall" ring that Specialized first had with the SL7. What is your opinion, does it look safe to use, or is it too thin and sharp? It was extremely sharp at first, just filed off the worst edges.
The integrated one-piece handlebar is "THE ONE PRO HANDLEBAR" from aliexpress, but was purchased directly from the manufacturer on Alibaba. Of course, its aero profile does not fit the frame spacer set. As I want to slam it, my idea is to run it as pictured but to cut out a 2mm thin piece of metal and act as a support between the two. Also to cover up the holes and such. I have given it a lot of thought and this is the solution I found to be the most reasonable and least complicated.
Have you gotten around to routing cables through The One Pro bar yet?
I'm considering purchasing this handlebar myself at the moment from Alibaba. It looks super good, but the cable routing looks fairly tight.
-
I received such a frame from a friend of mine. One of the aluminium BB inserts de-bonded from the frame and since he wasn't too happy about the stiffness of the frame either, he decided not to use it anymore. I could do whatever I wanted with it (I build and repair carbon parts on an amateur level). So I cut it in half.
I will post some pictures later, but a few comments first:
The frame was incredibly light, 728g for a size 54 to be exact (no typo). Since I highly doubt that HM fibers are used in such a frame, I suspect that they simply reduced the amount of stiffness layers to achieve such a low weight. Or some precut pieces fell to the floor and the person laminating the frame decided not to use them anymore ;) That's also in line with the owner's feedback who said the bike felt pretty noodly.
The good: The frame is surprisingly well built, the inside in general looks very clean. No wrinkles and almost no voids.
The bad: The rear dropout for the derailleur hanger I find horrible, it is so thin. This was mentioned in this thread already. The connection where front and rear triangle is glued together is done poorly too. You'll see why on the pics. The integration of the seatpost shape in the seattube isn't a showpiece either (an OEM SL7 seatpost doesn't fit, BTW). The BB area is pretty thin compared to other frames that I cut and honestly, I'm not surprised that one insert decided to part ways.
Would I recommend buying such a frame from a manufacturing/engineering perspective? Absolutely not. I'm not squeamish when it comes to carbon parts but IMHO I'd stay clear from such a frame.
-
I received such a frame from a friend of mine. One of the aluminium BB inserts de-bonded from the frame and since he wasn't too happy about the stiffness of the frame either, he decided not to use it anymore. I could do whatever I wanted with it (I build and repair carbon parts on an amateur level). So I cut it in half.
I will post some pictures later, but a few comments first:
The frame was incredibly light, 728g for a size 54 to be exact (no typo). Since I highly doubt that HM fibers are used in such a frame, I suspect that they simply reduced the amount of stiffness layers to achieve such a low weight. Or some precut pieces fell to the floor and the person laminating the frame decided not to use them anymore ;) That's also in line with the owner's feedback who said the bike felt pretty noodly.
The good: The frame is surprisingly well built, the inside in general looks very clean. No wrinkles and almost no voids.
The bad: The rear dropout for the derailleur hanger I find horrible, it is so thin. This was mentioned in this thread already. The connection where front and rear triangle is glued together is done poorly too. You'll see why on the pics. The integration of the seatpost shape in the seattube isn't a showpiece either (an OEM SL7 seatpost doesn't fit, BTW). The BB area is pretty thin compared to other frames that I cut and honestly, I'm not surprised that one insert decided to part ways.
Would I recommend buying such a frame from a manufacturing/engineering perspective? Absolutely not. I'm not squeamish when it comes to carbon parts but IMHO I'd stay clear from such a frame.
728 gram size 54? How that is that a real S-works weighs.
Mine, same size was 823 gram completely raw.
My build is taking forever to complete but it is with a painter long far away at the moment for some really nice colors. Hopefully done sometime soon! Gonna put it on my trainer to test it out
-
Since both frames are paintless, the 100g difference shows the inconsistencies that you can get. I verified the weight with a second scale BTW and I would definitely prefer the heavier frame that you have. I will try to upload the images today or tomorrow.
-
Got two of these frames painted, good outside but on rollers one has a lot of swing in the seatpost area with creaks :s
-
And the weight of the frame was 1104gr without fork painted. Size 52
-
@eucalyptus: Any update on this? there is one review for this frame on Alix and it shows pictures with 32c tires mounted with just enough clearance on both sides of the tire at the front, while the rear photo unfortunately hides clearance around chain stays. Surprising because the spec says max tire size support is 28c.
Link that has pictures review - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802769764383.html