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Re: Advice on where to buy a frame - dengfu/ican/velobuild ? The 1056 or R12 will be much better built.  But you've also chosen 3 different bikes with different geo and tube profiles so you might want to think about that.

I highly doubt the 177 layup uses any T1000.  And to call it T1000 as they do is misleading anyway, as even if it did, it'd probably be less than 10%.  Chinese outfits (typically the low quality ones) use the T1000/1100 term interchangeably with high modulus / light weight.  The 177 is relatively light weight.   I'd be skeptical that VB or similar price point frames are using genuine Toray stuff anymore anyway (that's not to say Chinese equivalents are bad), given price rises.
November 09, 2022, 05:25:31 AM 		1
Re: Advice on where to buy a frame - dengfu/ican/velobuild ?
Quote from: VeloBuild.Bikes on November 09, 2022, 09:00:36 PM
We can guarantee we use T1000 - 1K carbon for our VB-R-177 and VB-R-218 frames  ;)

Toray T1000 doesn't come in 1K and only comes in 12K TOW.  It's reassuring you can guarantee you use something that doesn't exist.  The generic stuff that apes Toray SKUs tends to stick to similar naming conventions and corresponding TOW and other specs too ... this is another classic with AliExpress sellers, conflating Toray Txxx SKU names with TOW values and advertising / marketing as such.

So what exactly are you saying you use?
November 10, 2022, 03:36:41 PM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame I’ve got about 250 miles on my vb-r 168 after some initial problems ( some my own) I’m pretty impressed compared to my tried and true pinarello f10
November 14, 2022, 03:07:30 AM 		1
Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame Looks like the painting is done. 8)
Waiting for delivery (Germany) now.

http://www.velobuild.com/products/r-168-metallic-blue-matte-paint


November 16, 2022, 07:38:45 AM 		1
Re: VeloBuild Headset Play Issue Using Separate Stem/Handlebar: Resolved. An update on dust cap and headtube gap. Copying my response from GF002 thread -

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Also an update on C ring and dust cap fitting about 1.7mm above the top of head tube - from a machinist friend I got my dust cap/base sanded off by a 0.6-0.7mm on the inside (outer part is untouched but the part that rests on C ring is now deeper by 0.7mm) this has solved the problem of unnecessarily large gap.

The dust cap now sits just about 1mm above head tube. Since it rotates, I didn’t want go any more deeper or add spacers. There is no headset play after tightening the top cap.

Anyone having same issue - this something that I won’t recommend doing at home with Dremel (like I originally thought and quickly abandoned ship).

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This last part, thanks to Eucalyptus.
November 17, 2022, 02:56:23 PM 		1