Wow, seems like there actually are plenty of bars to choose from, thanks for the input. I had the idea to check Yishun where I once ordered some rims and it actually looks like they manufacture the "The One" handlebars...? I think I am going to try the HB058.

https://www.yishunbike.com/product-category/components/components-frames/components-frames-handle-bars/road-bars/

Their HB088 also looks suspiciously similar to the "The One Pro 2022" handlebar/stem combo. While not exactly the same (steerer clamping, topcap interface), there are lots of elements like the cable routing area under the stem and the chamfer along the tops that are identical.

Close but that is not the one bar There are a ton of bars available although not many considered very light.

The one I linked above to alibaba, that is the real manufacturer of all "the one pro bar" which is just rebranded/resells. The real manufacturer is on Alibaba.

The one you linked looks very much like the classic Alanera copy from aliexpress. Heavy and cheap. Anything over 350 gram is very heavy.

I received such a frame from a friend of mine. One of the aluminium BB inserts de-bonded from the frame and since he wasn't too happy about the stiffness of the frame either, he decided not to use it anymore. I could do whatever I wanted with it (I build and repair carbon parts on an amateur level). So I cut it in half.

I will post some pictures later, but a few comments first:
The frame was incredibly light, 728g for a size 54 to be exact (no typo). Since I highly doubt that HM fibers are used in such a frame, I suspect that they simply reduced the amount of stiffness layers to achieve such a low weight. Or some precut pieces fell to the floor and the person laminating the frame decided not to use them anymore That's also in line with the owner's feedback who said the bike felt pretty noodly.

The good: The frame is surprisingly well built, the inside in general looks very clean. No wrinkles and almost no voids.

The bad: The rear dropout for the derailleur hanger I find horrible, it is so thin. This was mentioned in this thread already. The connection where front and rear triangle is glued together is done poorly too. You'll see why on the pics. The integration of the seatpost shape in the seattube isn't a showpiece either (an OEM SL7 seatpost doesn't fit, BTW). The BB area is pretty thin compared to other frames that I cut and honestly, I'm not surprised that one insert decided to part ways.

Would I recommend buying such a frame from a manufacturing/engineering perspective? Absolutely not. I'm not squeamish when it comes to carbon parts but IMHO I'd stay clear from such a frame.

728 gram size 54? How that is that a real S-works weighs.

Mine, same size was 823 gram completely raw.

My build is taking forever to complete but it is with a painter long far away at the moment for some really nice colors. Hopefully done sometime soon! Gonna put it on my trainer to test it out

Haha wow! I mean sure, it can easily be repaired by a CARBON WORKSHOP not a bikeshop they will tell you to scrap the frame.

But that is a horrible solution from ICAN and also horrible construction. Should be solid carbon or an alloy insert bonded in carbon, not constructed with glue... You simply dont construct critical parts with glue.

Sorry you have to go through this! Also kinda sad the frame is black, would be interesting what else is hiding behind the paint.

The 1056 or R12 will be much better built.  But you've also chosen 3 different bikes with different geo and tube profiles so you might want to think about that.

I highly doubt the 177 layup uses any T1000.  And to call it T1000 as they do is misleading anyway, as even if it did, it'd probably be less than 10%.  Chinese outfits (typically the low quality ones) use the T1000/1100 term interchangeably with high modulus / light weight.  The 177 is relatively light weight.   I'd be skeptical that VB or similar price point frames are using genuine Toray stuff anymore anyway (that's not to say Chinese equivalents are bad), given price rises.

Can guarantee that Velobuild is not using any T1000 carbon. Their frames are amongst the heaviest ones coming out of china!

He deleted your comment.

You posted to help people to be careful because he may not be legitimate.

I'm saying it would be great to know his own reasoning for deleting your comment.

Your name is Velovelo....Trace Velo... Velovelo hmm it rings a bell.

Sorry i am just adding gasoline to the fire, trace velo

Haha no worries, you tried  You measured everything but the important part haha

Try this  Both like the way you did it and then also by putting the compression ring on the bearing then you can measure from the bearing shield to the top. See if you get the same measurements by doing both methods.

Apart from that, that compression ring looks really nice to be honest. Is it an upgraded version by Velobuild? It looks nice because the sleeve goes through the bearing meaning it gives more contact area on the steerer tube! Really nice. As you said, the one I linked is very thin but should do the work. Okay maybe not SUPER nice because it is very open in the front.. But I like the thickness

There is also this ring, it wont fit your headset spacer but it is a really nice ring as it gives maximum support on the steerer. Although this one is thicker, 8mm in total and 4.5mm above the bearing (the other one was much slimmer at 3.55mm).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002628785249.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.2cf21802GaXbPi

This frame is the exact same geometry and frame as the TFSA JH33 (aka. SL7 copy) but with 10mm longer reach and more aero profile.

I received some more info from the seller concerning weight.

Raw naked frame w/o hardware = 963g (size 54)
Fork = 374g
Seatpost = 177g

Last picture can only be downloaded... forum is not showing

I placed my order for my 168 on 10/13/22 with custom paint of blue/purple chameleon blue.  To my surprise, I just received the frame 10/31/22.   On the front fork, I noticed the hole for the front brake line is on the right hand side of the steerer tube. I expected the hole to be in the middle of the steerer tube.  Will this be a problem running the brake line from the right side of the steerer tube to the left fork for the disc brake?

Hole placement looks absolutely fine! It is done so for smoother movement between hose/fork/frame to reduce twisting.

Remember to tape the hose, every S-works SL7 I have seen built, the mechanics tape the hose just above the steerer hole to keep the hose in place. Any slack should be inside the frame.