Ltwoo's idea is to use the left-hand button to control the electronic dropper seatpost. This dropper seatpost is expected to be released in the second half of this year, along with the mountain electronic derailleur. As for the accompanying shifting logic issues, it is indeed a frustrating design choice, but it seems that there are no other options at the moment.

That's good info, and I'm sure many people would be interested in an electronic remote dropper post option. I think it would be neat if there were some compatibility between the eGR lineup and the eR9 lineup, so that an eR9 front derailleur could be paired with a eGR rear derailleur and still function.

Also, I don't know how open the protocols are, but it would be neat if those buttons could be used to control a bike computer (i.e. scroll through screens on a head unit). We have these 2 extra buttons just sitting there, sure would be nice if there were more things we could do with them.

... AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)

THIS is the single most confusing decision I've yet seen made for this system. I noticed the same thing when I installed my eGR, that the battery pack has a space for the second power port but that it was blanked off. WHY?!!!  I can't imagine it saves them money, if anything it probably costs more in the long run to have to maintain two different part production, stock, etc. Maybe it was to prevent issues related to moisture or other things, but then why not a little rubber plug or something. Even if it wasn't an elegantly designed rubber plug, just some random bit of rubber shoved in the hole that was a PITA to remove later would be better than no port at all.

Assuming that their customers like their products and buy more of them, it sure would be nice to have an extra battery pack that could be used between the 2x systems and the 1x systems. I'm still wary of how long my eGR may last and wary of all the reports about failures in the eR9, but so far it's been great and the price was incredible. If that continues to be the case, I could see myself buying an eR9 for my road bike.

@amacal1: What kind of bleed kid did you buy? At the moment they only offer the version without box and without batteries on Aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html

I think you can buy the Ltwoo bleed kit as a separate item on AliExpress.

On Amazon, I originally bought a "Borgen" brand kit, which there was nothing wrong with it other than the fact that it only had one kind of fitting and that fitting did not work with the Ltwoo caliper.

I then bought a "CYCOBYCO" brand kit that had a variety of fittings, one of which fit the Ltwoo caliper. This is not a full endorsement of that kit, per se. There seem to be many others that also come with a wide variety of fittings.

I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)

Actually... I did have some minor issues. Mostly because I ordered the "no box / no battery" package, so I did not get Ltwoo's bleed kit. I ordered some supposedly Shimano compatible kit from Amazon, but it came with only one type of fitting and tube connector. Unfortunately, there was no way to get my syringe onto the Ltwoo caliper port. I had to order a different kit from Amazon that came with a variety of different fittings and doo-dads and, fortunately, one of them fit the port. If I could go back in time, I'd much rather have ordered the Ltwoo kit because it was cheap and would have been a little less headache. But, it was a relatively minor inconvenience. Plus, the delay let me re-evaluate how I had run everything, and I was able to take a little time to shorten one of my hoses a little for *perfect* fit and finish.

Also, while installing, I was completely convinced that they had left out a screw that I needed for my size caliper installation. I checked very thoroughly and was absolutely sure it was missing. I came up with a work-around solution and was about to write them an email so they could send me a replacement or at least give me the specifications so I could source locally, and the only reason I didn't send the email was because I resolved to do it once I finished for the night. Anyway... I found the missing screw PERFECTLY nestled and hidden inside some spacer or something. I mean, it was flawlessly hidden. So, I guess they did a great job packaging the hardware. If you order the "no box / no battery" package it surely looks like a mess of stuff just randomly shoved in a box with a bunch of packing foam, but they did have some order in the madness.

Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?

I kinda *need* mine to work this upcoming weekend as I'm riding it in a big century ride event I'm going to. So, I've been baby-ing it and being very easy with it. I'm surely going to be a lot more adventurous and abusive after that.

I’ve had mine for about a month and a half. Not a ton of miles, but I should start logging a lot of miles soon. Zero issues so far. Initially the groupset only worked when plugged in. I knew what it was right away, the 1st set of batteries I ordered were a hair too short and were not making a proper connection. Ordered a different set that had a taller “nub”. That is not the groupsets fault, it’s a common issue when using these types of rechargeable batteries.

I might order another set, but would like it in carbon. Although the price will be higher than the $350-$375 you can get the current groupset for.
Here are the ones that worked well, surprisingly they were the cheapest ones too

Svenirven 14500 Battery, 2 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVWF93HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pretty much my experience so far, as well. I'm coming up on about 2 weeks of it being up and running, at about 150mi. By the end of next week I'll have about 300-350 mi on it, but mostly pavement so nothing too rough. It's been excellent so far. I initially was worried about battery drain, because my first couple of rides the battery drained super quick. I think it may have been some kind of break-in or first-cycle issue with my cells rather than a derailleur issue. Rather than top-off on my first few rides I just let it continue running down until it registered just under 20% life and then I topped it off to 100%, that probably got me about 100mi or so (which was pretty poor, imo).

My last few rides, since then, it has seemed to drain remarkably slowly. After yesterday's 25mi ride, it didn't even budge enough to register a drop at all.

I've been riding this week with it, not as many miles as I had hoped but a little over 60mi so far. I haven't taken it off-road, but I took a few trips to a parking garage and rode about 30+ times up and down. LOTS of rapid shifting and so far it's held up great. I'll be taking it on a century ride in a couple of weeks, so hopefully I don't end up stranded in the middle of it. I haven't put it through any water yet, but I'll get a bit more rough and rowdy with it off the road once I am done with my century ride.

Issues with 12 speed cassettes.  I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets.  I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem.  It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12.  if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12.  I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around.  That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery.  When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.

Which front chainring are you in while you're attempting this? Is it, perhaps, trying to prevent cross-chaining and shifting to the same ratio but with a different front chainring?

I believe I read a post where someone was pulling their hair out over their Wheeltop electronic derailleur doing something like this before realizing it was a feature not a bug.

I've attached a picture to the post to clearly identify the screw I'm wondering about.

I quickly set my eGR up this weekend and did a good 35mi+ group ride on mostly roads, and all was good. I didn't pay super close attention to how this linkage was set, initially, because it all seemed to work.

After the ride, I was doing some cleanup maintenance to get my crank and chain line better sorted. When I put the chain back on, my chain seemed loose, like the derailleur didn't have enough take-up or the chain was too long. With that, the derailleur was all the way up and contacting my cassette, with the grinding noise just like in Trace Velo's video where his B-screw adjustment failed. That was the first place my mind went, but after pulling it all apart nothing was broken.

What I realized was that when I initially set everything up, that linkage was much further back than it would naturally rest. When that screw (circled in red) is tightened to the torque specified on the screw, the linage doesn't move and the B-screw adjustment doesn't really matter at all. It's like in Trace Velo's video where he uses a lock washer to prevent movement, except I have no lock washer. Simply tightening the screw locks the entire assembly in place. Somehow it had come loose while I was doing that bit of work and that's when I noticed an issue. For now, I simply rotated the linkage back like I had it originally and tightened everything back up to prevent the derailleur from contacting my cassette. Presumably, everything will continue to be fine as long as the screw doesn't work loose again.

My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.

I just received an eGR 1x setup. I have a 220124 date code, so let's hope it's in better shape.

Does anyone have both an eRX/eR9 as well as an eGR? Can anyone comment if any of the parts are interchangeable? (i.e using an eGR RD with an eR9 FD,or using eR9 shifters with eGR derailleur, etc.)