Also I haven't found any reference project based on this frame. Is it just because the frame seems to be quite new or is there any other reason I should consider?

Is this the exact same frame as the fm08 that tan tan is selling?  I had a quick look at the geo charts and it looks like it.  Could be from the same factory.  There are a couple build threads on here for the fm08.

Ssstu,. Could you please share with us the bottom bracket height on your bike.  Thanks

1 year Update:

My bike turned one this week.  In total, I'm guessing I've done about 15 events on it - mostly ~70-80 minute xc events at local clubs, about four or five longer events (mostly 3-4hrs) and one 35 minute short track event.

With 2 young kids (2 and 3), I don't have much time for riding.  I get my fitness from commuting to work (around 200 of my 240hrs in 2018 were on my fm057 hardtail commuter), go in the above mentioned races, and do minimal other off road riding.  I have only ridden the fm058 in the above mentioned events, and less than 10 non race rides (such as reccy missions to pre ride race courses).  My long travel 26er has barely been ridden since I built up my fm058 - the old bike geometry feels weird now.

Log of changes since initial build:
April (2018) - Converted to tubeless.  Bike lost 108g with that conversion.
April - tune seatpost clamp.  About 30g savings
May - got same saddle and seatpost that sissypants has (well, at least back then).  The seatpost was a bit heavier than claimed, but saddle was pretty light.  The saddle is the comfiest I've ridden.  Seatpost and saddle totalled the same weight as the previous setup (within 10g).
August - Removed the zip ties on the internal cables and put in capgo noise protection.  It works.  Get it.
August - Got a light rear axle.  Robert project.  42g (saved 45g)
August - 2.25 thunder burt rear tyre.  575g (85g lighter than old tyre)
October - Got a 2nd hand fork - fox 32 factory SC non boost 46mm offset remote lockout.  Used the remote lockout off my old fork (80g including cable).  took 230-240g off the bike. 
February - Changed front tyre - 2.25 racing Ralph speed grip snakeskin (thicker sidewall than old tyre, 639g, 59g heavier than old tyre)
February - New crank with oval chainring - rotor rex 3.1 with 32t oval chainring.  Overall, 10g heavier than old crank/chainring setup.

As pictured, bike now weighs 9.81kg (ready to race, just attach number plate and Garmin and go).



Next changes:
Different coloured decals for fork.  thinking red
New front tyre - 2.25 racing ray
32t oval chainring absolute black - a bit lighter and slightly narrower chainline

The bike has been a joy to ride in races, and I have been steadily improving on it.  Other than one exception (where I had dehydration issues, that I blame on excessive pre-race coffee), I have had steady improvement in the results I am getting on this bike.  Have had a few 3rds, seconds, and finally started getting some wins starting near the end of last year.  Before all this, I never got better than 4th in these kind of races.  I can now expect to keep up with the front runners, up, down, just about everywhere.  Climbing is great, descending is great, and I seem to get a little better at cornering every time i ride it.

For a while there, the only downside of this bike for me was I was struggling a bit on the tighter uphill switchbacks.  This is probably because the reach on this bike is longer than I'd normally run, and I have a very short stem on it, making it harder to weight the front tyre in certain situations.  Lately though, it seems I am shifting my weight better and getting around them faster, and not losing ground.

I haven't touched the rear shock (think it is still around 135psi) and always run it with the compression setting fully open.  I notice no Bob, even when stomping.  Must be the high main pivot with the 32t chainring (anti squat has been discussed elsewhere on here).

While I considered that the chainring clearance was pretty good when I initially set it up with a 32t round chainring on my m980 xtr crank (50mm chainline), I ran into problems when I attempted to put an oval chainring on it.  I was determined to put a 32t oval chainring on.  The chainline for a 32t oval on my xtr crank is 48.5mm and I bought one of those chainrings, and it didn't fit (chainring hit chainstay).  After much research I ended up with a rotor 3.1 crank, the one with the 24mm axle so I didn't need to mess with the bottom  bracket.  The rotor oval ring on that had a chainline of nearly 51mm, so has plenty on clearance. The chainline is not ideal for non boost, and is a bit grindy in the big cog, so I have ordered an absolute black chainring for it, which apparently are quieter and are a mm or two further in.  Would've had much more options if I got a boost frame.

The Chinese seat post I am using has barely enough setback, especially when combined with the Chinese saddle I am using (the rails on the saddle don't allow much rearward movement).  With the setback in the post, plus with the saddle almost all the way back, and I am barely as far back as where I have been riding my commuter for the last few years. I am ecstatic with comfort of the ~$25 saddle on longer events, so much so that I have 2 spares, and recently put one on my commuter too.  There is one downside of the saddle : my shorts get stuck on it when I get behind the saddle.  I'll have to work around it.

Soon after I initially put the bike together I noticed a tiny bit of play in the rear end, when picking up the bike by the saddle.  It is very very minor, so minor that I cannot be sure where it originates.  Others have mentioned these kind of frames have play in the shock bolts.  When I initially built the bike, the top shock bolt bottomed out before it got tight, so I put a washer in there.  My measurements came up with 21.8 for the top shock mount.  Maybe I should've used a 22.2 and spread it a tiny bit.  After recently confirming that I could get 22.2 to fit, I ordered another 22.2 RWS needle bearing kit and put it on this week.  It seems to have worked, but we'll see if the play comes back after a ride.

This is my first frame with a press fit BB.  I was paranoid about creaking, so put one of those (heavy) screw together hope BBs on it.  WIthin the first month, I did detect some minor creaking, but did some research, and realised that I was putting to much pressure on the bearings, so I loosened the cranks a bit, and have pretty much forgotten about it (so it is silent).

I do have some concerns about the durability of the frame overall.  Maybe I am about paranoid, but I the play in the rear end has got my worried it had weakness in the pivots.  I have also had the headset loosen, and noticed that my headset now requires a spacer to avoid bottoming the top headset cap on the frame, suggesting something has moved - either something compressed in the top headset, or the frame's top headset cup has been pushed down.

Despite these concerns, I have no regrets getting this bike.  I am continuing to beat previous pbs on Strava segments throughout the local racetracks, and am now beating people I have never before.  Not bad for someone in their 40s.

The bike is almost too good at pedaling, which I put down to the high pivot and the inherent anti squat.  I am used to very active Horst link bikes, so I would maybe prefer a slightly more active setup.  If I was to do it again, I suppose I'd run a bigger 34t chainring (less anti squat), but then I'd probably need boost spacing to get the clearance, and probably a bigger-than-42t rear cog to get the low gear.  But I am happy with what I have, with no need to bother with a rear lockout.

At bottom out, the difference is 15mm, 145mm vs 130mm.  That is significant.  You are likely to have issues, such as a tyre hitting the seattube or a seatstay crossbrace (if there is one) hitting the seattube at bottom out.  Put a wheel on the (shock-less) frame, push it down until frame contact occurs, the measure the distance between the shock mounts (centre to centre).  That'll tell you if it'll work or not.  Note that some shocks can have their stroke reduced.

As for the other end of the travel (at top out and at sag), that 5mm will translate to a back end that sits 10-15mm lower than what the bike is designed for, maybe a bit lower once the extra sag of the longer stroke shock is factored in.  If you are looking for a lower BB and slacker head and seat tube angles, maybe this is your intention.  I wouldnt do it for any other reason.

The eye to eye is around 117-118mm at bottom out - when the seat stay crossbrace hits the seat tube.  In theory, a 165x45 shock would work, but I don't think a non trunnion mount shock exists in that size.

The shock hardware does not come with the frame.  The shock bolts come with the frame.

The shock bolts are 8mm outside diameter.  The width is 22.2mm for top and bottom shock mounts.  You can get any hardware that is those dimensions (as long as the outside dimensions of the hardware suits the shock's eyelets, but I think the eyelet size is fairly standard these days).  You could use standard bushings, igus bushings (which I believe are the new standard for fox shocks).  I have used RWS needle bearing kits (by enduro seals).  A bearing probably isn't necessary for the low shock mount, but the upper shock mount has a fair bit of rotation, so arguably a bearing can help there.

I dunno about 165x40 shocks, if that size comes in non trunion mount.  I happen to have my shock off my bike presently, waiting for another RWC kit before I remount the shock.  Later this week I'll measure the mount-to-mount distance at bottom out (when either the tyre or seatstay Crossbrace hits the seat tube), to see if it is more than 125mm (the eye to eye of a 165x40mm shock at bottom out).  Having said that, if you are looking for a trail bike and are looking for slightly longer than 100mm travel, want to run a 120/130mm.fork, a dropper post etc, maybe you should look at other frames, like the fs029.  There is another thread on here about it.

When I get around to building a new trail bike, that's the kind of rim spec I am looking for.  I found it difficult to find one, but then came across eiecarbon.  Dunno much about the quality of the product or the vendor, but these 2 rims are pretty much spot on my requirements:

http://www.eiecarbon.com/A29C29D25S-asymmetric-rim-super-light-carbon-29-inch-mountain-rims.html

http://www.eiecarbon.com/A29C30D28S-super-light-asymmetric-rim-29er-hookless-MTB-carbon-tubeless-compatible.html


Dunno which one is better.  The newer 'V' one could be a bit less compliant, given the greater rim height.

When I received it, I measured 22.2 bottom and 21.8 top, on my fm058, and bought rwc hardware to suit.

As you have found with the too-long bolt issue, my top bolt would bottom out before it tightened on the frame.  The best solution would be to get a slightly shorter bolt, but I didn't have one at hand, so put some washers in there to make it work.  Seems to have worked ok since I did this (about 9 months ago). I suspect that perhaps the frame designer intended that we should put 22.2 hardware in that top mount, and then spread the rockers slightly to make it fit - then the stock shock bolt might work.

The play referred to above is a separate issue, where the outer diameter of the stock shock bolt is a tiny bit too small.  My bike has this issue, but it is very very subtle.  So subtle that it was very hard to find.  I certainly couldn't see any movement. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse, so I am in no hurry to fix it.  I have intended to replace the bolts with something lighter at some stage.