Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: imperyal on October 22, 2020, 05:55:07 PM
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I’m looking at this TT-X21 frame from TanTan:
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=843
Anyone here riding this frame?
I’m between this and the A9 from ICAN (the A9 is significantly more expensive).
Thank you.
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Check out my A9 thread and finished build. I though about this bike too but I ended up going for the A9 because of better communication from Perry and also I couldn't find a bad review of an ican product (wheels and frame) while there are a few people unhappy with the standards of their tan tan bike (this may be because tan tan sell more bikes). The integrated handedbar included with the A9 is incredible, basically a vision metron 5D. I believe both companies upload YouTube videos of their products so go check them out!
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What size A9 frame did you get? Lucky from icancycling.com recommended a 52, I’m 168cm tall.
Did you bought your frame from icancycling.com too? Any advise?
P.S.: your bike looks fabulous!
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I went for a size 56. I am 187cm tall and I felt like i was in between a 56 and 58. I went with the smaller size and got the longer stem and it fits perfectly. Its possible to make a smaller bike fit bigger but its not possible to make a bigger bike fit smaller!
I wouldn't buy off any website, Email the companies and discuss the bikes and what you want before ordering the pay via paypal. The stock available might help you decide what bike to get. For example I wanted a 38cm wide bar and they were out of stock, the wait would have been an extra month so instead i went with the 40cm bar that was available immediately. Ask lots of questions and make sure they have everything in stock. The speed of the replies and honesty of the sellers will help you decide which one to go for.
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Did you ever purchase the TT-X21? How was your interaction with Tantan?
Thanks!
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Hey fhs , if I can be of any help here. I purchased a frame from them back in early Sept and have been having a hell of time dealing with the company. I was provided a fake tracking number, and was lied to/mislead too many times. Still waiting for a frame or my money back. I would recommend purchasing from anyone else. I was planning on making a post here detailing the whole experience with screenshots. I guess I should do that sooner than later.
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Hi Mrpoptart,
Thanks for the input and sorry to hear about your difficulties. Hope you get your situation worked out. I've been lurking in the forum for a couple of weeks. Isn't there somebody who works with Tantan posting here, Sissypants? Any suggestions from him? I even saw a post from them somewhere in this forum.
Which frame did you try to purchase?
Definitely much appreciated, but I pulled the trigger last night. I've looked at a lot of frames and communicated with a few different manufacturers but Tantan was one of the most responsive. I even tried to purchase a TT-X3 from them on Aliexpress, but I cancelled that order after one of their reps told me that the T3 was out of stock and wouldn't be available for 3 months. My money was refunded right away and they recommended a couple of other frames before I gave the X21 a good look. I had a helpful exchange with the rep, changed my order a couple of times after a few questions, really like the geometry and size of the X21, thought it would be a good fit, so here we are.
Guess both of us will be keeping folks updated on Tantan
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Hi ,
Yea I spoke to sissypants and they were helpful in their answer to my message but unfortunately there was not much they could do to help otherwise. That was the reason I originally joined this forum.
Originally I had purchased the tt-X3 when it was in stock. I reached out to them to make sure instead of just ordering on aliexpress because I wanted to make sure they still had my size available. First they had it and would ship soon . Then they told me they just had to build the fork. Then it was being painted. This lasted a month and a half until they finally told me the truth and said they had no frame to send me. Per their own recommendation, I paid the difference on the only other frame they supposedly had in stock, fm-659. Got another fake tracking number for this one when lead time was up. I asked them about it and got blocked on alibaba until I opened a dispute but even then they just unblocked me to tell me to "be quiet and wait". The whole time I just kept asking for an honest answer. If they would have said they needed more time then that would have been fine. Instead, they lied to and mislead me every step of the way.
They were really responsive up until lead time was up and they provided a fake tracking number, EV940554444CN. It still doesn't show anything. In any case, I hope you have a better experience with them.
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Yikes, sounds eerily familiar. Not sure why they keeping posting that TT-X3 frame for sale when it clearly is not available. I just got another Ebay notice that it was reposted. Specs and price do sound too good to be true. Sounds like a classic bait and switch. Wouldn't be terrible if we would actually get what we paid for.
Who did you work with if you don't mind me asking?
This ride is just starting for me, no pun intended. I didn't plan on actually having anything in hand before February, honestly, based on everything I've read. Website says 7-10 day lead time, rep says within 15 days, then the real fun begins I guess.
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I worked with Amy and then started to talk to vivian, whom i believe is the manager, after speaking with sissypants. although, i never mentioned sissypants to them so as not to ruin his relationship with the company since things were starting to go south for me. Vivian did nothing, was actually a bit rude(although that could have been a translation issue) and was the one who told me to be quiet and wait. she also started to show me other customer info, which i found pretty unprofessional, stating they were all in the same situation as me but didnt care they were mislead originally.
i was quoted 15 days but when they set the lead time it was 35 days. I do admit that was my fault for missing it on the contract in my excitement to get the ball rolling. oh and they had me pay for the order on alibaba when i was talking to them on aliexpress but since ive done a bit of business there already, i did not mind. when trying to get my money back through alibaba, they provided another fake tracking number, this time UPS but when checking the tracking number they have no package which was also confirmed when contacting ups. alibaba has marked the package as dispatched and their dispute mediation team settled in favor of the seller since they provided a tracking number on time and said i should wait for it to update. that was about 3 weeks ago and ive never seen a tracking number from UPS take this long to update. i ordered on sept 7th, and now almost 3months later still no product or even a working tracking number.
still i have read other people having better luck with tantan, although nothing as of late, and i do wish you the best. hopefully this was a one off case but still enough of a horror story that i felt i need to share with others considering purchasing from them.
Edit: removed tracking number I had in the post.
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Thank you, again, much appreciated.
Best of luck to you as well. Sounds like you are back in groove with your purchase from Velobuild!
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Hello,
I ordered the TT-X21 frame last night, directly from the factory.
The communication with Rose is nice, sometimes she takes her time to respond, but she is helpful.
I will post when my frame arrives, wish me luck!
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Good luck!
Did she give you a lead time?
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She said it would be shipped in 7 days. And from that, 35-40 days to delivery.
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Apparently, my X-21 shipped today. Got sent a tracking number on Monday that went active this morning. Package arrived at Tianjin Mail Processing Center at 19:36.
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Nice, let me know how it goes...
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t i felt i need to share with others considering purchasing from them.
here to say i've ordered six MTB frames from tantan, no problems at all. All custom painted, all took time to paint and deliver.
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Good to know... 8)
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ChinerInDetroit,
Do all their frames ship through Tianjin Mail Processing Center? If so, how long are they typically there before the next leg of shipping? My frame has been stuck there since it left the TanTan factory, going on 3 days now.
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ChinerInDetroit,
Do all their frames ship through Tianjin Mail Processing Center? If so, how long are they typically there before the next leg of shipping? My frame has been stuck there since it left the TanTan factory, going on 3 days now.
Global shipping is a mess right now. Chances are your order will have significant delays and you will drive yourself mad if you are constantly checking the tracking info. The frame probably wont arrive until late January.
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Yeah, I wasn't really expecting it until February. Just, not familiar with the ins and outs of EMS shipping. I thought it was gonna be on a container ship, but the rep said EMS Express flies, just, no space right now.
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Apparently, my X-21 shipped today. Got sent a tracking number on Monday that went active this morning. Package arrived at Tianjin Mail Processing Center at 19:36.
That's great turnaround. Can you tell:
1) what size you ordered?
2) What finish? Custom paint?
3) Who you communicated with and what platform (email, skype etc)?
4) How much you paid?
Would appreciate this a lot. I am going to purchase in the next few days I think.
Lloyd
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Tantan told me the x21 frame is sold by a brand under a brand name but they couldn't/wouldn't tell me the name. Does anyone know who it is?
Lloyd
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Tantan told me the x21 frame is sold by a brand under a brand name but they couldn't/wouldn't tell me the name. Does anyone know who it is?
Lloyd
Velobuild VB-R-099, Long Teng LTK268-D, Workswell WCB-R-268.
Mine is from Velobuild.
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This one looks veeeeery similar....
https://flanderscycles.com.au/product/koppenberg-frame/
Geometry is identical for the 54cm (and I'm sure the others):
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/seraph-tt-x21-2019-54,flanders-koppenberg-2021-54cm/
(found using geometrygeeks.bike's excellent "search by numbers" feature)
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Isn't this the same frame that Cinelli's new model uses (and Engine 11 & Atom 6)?
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Hi All,
Happy New Year!
My new TT-X21 frame arrived this morning.
I first contacted Lisa on 11/25, ordered the frame on 11/29, the frame shipped on 12/16, and arrived today, 01/04. I'm sure it would have arrived faster if shipping hadn't been in the middle of the Holiday Season. Overall, I'd give TanTan a solid B for quality of service. There were a ton of details that needed to be clarified, I wasn't sure how the frame would be shipped until I saw the EMS waybill, and even then, Lisa told me not to expect the frame until the end of January after it got hung up in Tianjin. In retrospect, no issues that were TanTan's fault and all minor stuff that didn't affect the actual transaction.
The build quality looks good, but it's my first carbon frame. Here are some pre-build pics. If you see anything I should be concerned about, please, if at all possible, let me know.
Thanks!
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Hmm, getting ready to install the cables and hoses. Found some loose fibers in the integrated handlebars.
Can I just leave it and hope for the best?
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nice man! looks good. im glad you had a better experience than i. looking forward to seeing the build.
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Fantastic!!
I had an update from Rose today, tracking number, and she told me the frame should arrive by the end of this month.
So far, very happy with tantan service.
8)
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Hi All,
My X21 build is almost done. It's mostly new components but I'm waiting on things like correct sized bolts for brakes. I have used shifters with an overtightened bleed port cover that I had to pretty much destroy to remove. Its holding the brake fluid, but ordered a replacement. I also have a loose headset that I can't seem to tighten down with the supplied compressor assembly. Might have to go to the LBS for that.
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My TT-X21 frame should arrive tomorrow (according to UPS tracking info)...
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Here is my TT-X21 frame, it is bare carbon, no primer or paint, I will do it myself.
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I look forward to your painting !
Something I'd definitely like to try in a next build.
I just saw today on MTBR a guy who had a neat trick to hang the frame while painting:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/chinese-carbon-29er.640919/page-497
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Fantastic! Looks good.
Did they put the tubes through the frame for the internal cables, or did you do that? Mine came without them, but the cables through the frame were super easy to do even without the tubes or a Park Tools Kit. Looks like you got a different set of handlebars, which, for me, are different than the ones pictured on their site.
Just an fyi about my headset issues. Turns out, a lot of the front end play came from the front axle. The axle I bought from TanTan just didn't quite fit the fork and will not tighten enough to take up play. I tried switching out the thru axles from my old bike first, but it does seem to be an issue with the T21 fork at least partly. I had to fit a small spacer for the front axle, but that that did care of the axle problem.
Most of the rest of the headset issue was with the compression plug. It kept slipping, even after a thorough inside cleaning of the steerer, so I replaced it with an FSA compression plug. That took care of most of the rest of the issues. Lastly, I don't really know if I have the headset bearings in as intended. I put the shorter height black bearing at the bottom and taller height red bearing at the top because they just seem to be a cleaner fit that way. At this point, my headset has no play at all and works nice and smooth, but I can't tighten the top cap enough to dampen the steering at all.
Anyway, looking forward to the build!
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The cable guides came already installed. I think they have two handlebar models.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=843
Thank you for your fyi FHS :D
I will post my progress. Unfortunately, here in Portugal the pandemic is out of control, I don't know if I can get the things I need to paint the bike. :-\
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hi all
Speaking about internal routing , does the hose going internal too (like on mtb) ? or does the hose stops at the frame's hole and then jonly able is routed internally ?
i'm about to build my roadie bike, and that would be my first one ...
thanks
Nicoloc
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Hi Nicoloc,
On the TT-X21, and other internal frames/handlebars I guess, the cables/hoses go straight through the bars, stem, head tube, and into the rest of the frame without ever exiting the bike. This is my first bike build, as well, and on the TT-X21 as far as I know, you have to run the cable housing all the way through, one piece. There are no guides inside the frame for cables or the housing. I added some housing dampener and everything seems to be working fine.
Clarification, the rear derailleur cable housing runs all the way from the shifter, into the handlebars, stem, and frame, then exits the bike at the rear, running all the way to the derailleur in one piece. I didn't see another way to run cables to the RD by using the short piece of housing that comes with the rear derailleur.
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HI All
I ordered a TT-X21 on the 18th November. It was shipped on the 15th December.
I just got a notice that it it is at custom clearance having traveled via train from China.
Nearly there
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God luck for you too, we already have a little family of TT-X21 owners here ;D
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HI All
I ordered a TT-X21 on the 18th November. It was shipped on the 15th December.
I just got a notice that it it is at custom clearance having traveled via train from China.
Nearly there
Do you see where that train started and where does it stops?
And how many days is the trip?
Are you in Europe?
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The train goes through China, Kazastan, Russia and finished in Berlin.
Locations are Dostyq, Kurgan, Minsk and Berlin,
It’s a continental container trainline
I’m in Europe
Here is a UPS story about this line. Tan tan use DPD
https://www.pressroom.ups.com/pressroom/ContentDetailsViewer.page?ConceptType=PressReleases&id=1490641127583-655
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I decided to be true to the chinese concept and sourced everything from there. The Groupset is Sensah Empire Pro, with the Ztrace 140mm disk brakes. I made a mistake with the Bottom Bracket, I ordered a ZTTO BB86 25mmm and not a 30mm. So I need to get another one. One came with the groupset but it doesnt look great. The wheelset is carbon Elite with 50mm depth rims. Sorry i got the white decals. I forgot to order the Thru axles, so I am scrambling to get them online. There seems to be a global shortage as many people have bought them for indoor trainers.
Looking forward to the build!!
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The frame finally arrived. It was well packed and the quality looks excellent. The lower fork bearing fits.
I ordered an extra derailleur hanger and handle bar spacers, but these were not included.
I have a dilemma. I got a Ztrace press fit Bottom Bracket with the groupset, I ordered a ZTTO BB86 threaded press fit bottom bracket, but ordered the 24mm instead of the 30mm. I am waiting on the replacement. Do I build the bike with what I have or wait for the better Bottom Bracket? I am concerned about removing the pressfit bottom bracket.
The frame is 1160grams.
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Nice, looks good.
How long would you have to wait for the bottom bracket?
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I have a dilemma. I got a Ztrace press fit Bottom Bracket with the groupset, I ordered a ZTTO BB86 threaded press fit bottom bracket, but ordered the 24mm instead of the 30mm. I am waiting on the replacement. Do I build the bike with what I have or wait for the better Bottom Bracket? I am concerned about removing the pressfit bottom bracket.
Changing a BB is normal maintenance. PF or threaded.
If you have a press tool with the right elements to remove it, the best.
Or gently tapping it out with an 8 or 10mm Allen key and a mallet.
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The frame finally arrived. It was well packed and the quality looks excellent. The lower fork bearing fits.
I ordered an extra derailleur hanger and handle bar spacers, but these were not included.
I have a dilemma. I got a Ztrace press fit Bottom Bracket with the groupset, I ordered a ZTTO BB86 threaded press fit bottom bracket, but ordered the 24mm instead of the 30mm. I am waiting on the replacement. Do I build the bike with what I have or wait for the better Bottom Bracket? I am concerned about removing the pressfit bottom bracket.
The frame is 1160grams.
I think I have the same groupset from Zrace store. My cranks were 29mm spindle, were yours 30mm?
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Around the 9th February.
I didn’t want to slam the hanblebars.
The other issue is do I wait for the spacers.
I’m looking for a light and quick touring bike, which needs to be comfortable.
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As Carbonazza says, changing out a pressfit BB shouldn't be an issue at all with the right tools. I don't know how trivial it is without the specialty tools but it's doable. I have the Wheels MFG version of the threaded press fit and it's absolutely the...best...thing...ever.
Your spacer and handlebar issue though...
Once you cut your steerer tube down to size, that's it, there's no going back. The TanTan handlebars came with around 4 cms of spacers and I use all of them. My steerer is cut 3 mm below the top of the stem and I still have to use another generic round 2mm spacer I picked up from my LBS on top of the stem, just underneath the top cap, to get the head tight enough. Maybe if you can figure out a way to stack 2 cms+ of generic spacers above your stem until your set arrives, you'd be able to cut the steerer to the correct size and get riding. It'd be fugly though, and judging from the generic spacer I use, not a very stable stack on top of your stem.
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I think I have the same groupset from Zrace store. My cranks were 29mm spindle, were yours 30mm?
Yes they are the spindle is 29mm, I think I will just use the Zrace Bottom Bracket.
I just realised that there can be a 29mm (SRAM) and 30mm spindle, so it looks like the ZTTO 30mm will not work.
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I think Token makes a DUB bb86 option that is similar to the ztto
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Got my frame last friday. Quality seems to be realy good. The stem clamp system looks great and works perfect for me. I'm wating for the bottom bracket to arrive to finish the build.
(http://)
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Got my frame last friday. Quality seems to be realy good. The stem clamp system looks great and works perfect for me. I'm wating for the bottom bracket to arrive to finish the build.
(http://)
It looks great. I like the colour scheme. Is that Sensah Empire Pro 2 x 12?
What bottom bracket are you getting?
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Yes its quite exactely the same setup as you have it :). Zrace cranks and brakes, sensah empire pro shifters and elite wheels. The zrace bb had a nasty cracking feel when turning, so i ordered a sram dub bb86 bb.
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...The zrace bb had a nasty cracking feel when turning, so i ordered a sram dub bb86 bb.
Hearing cracks when you press a BB is not anormal. It is even a sign of a tight fit.
The BBInfinite ones make a scary noise.
It will be interesting to know if the SRAM cracks less, being in plastic.
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Yes its quite exactely the same setup as you have it :). Zrace cranks and brakes, sensah empire pro shifters and elite wheels. The zrace bb had a nasty cracking feel when turning, so i ordered a sram dub bb86 bb.
Great minds think alike lol
That’s my concern as well! It looks flimsy.
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TanTan (Lisa) are sending out the spare derailleur and handlebar spacers via EMS. I might wait for spacers to arrive. China Post are predicting 2 weeks. We are in 5km from home lockdown, so I wont be able to do much cycling until 5th March.
I was wondering which headset bearing is on the top and bottom of the Fork? the wider one or the narrow one?
The internal wiring is very difficult. I am waiting for a better bottom bracket than the Zrace one.
I assume that you get the internal cabling working before inserting the Bottom bracket. The front derailleur is tricky with the wire protruding from the frame. There is a small allen key bolt on this. Do you tighten it?
Here is an early picture.
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TanTan (Lisa) are sending out the spare derailleur and handlebar spacers via EMS. I might wait for spacers to arrive. China Post are predicting 2 weeks. We are in 5km from home lockdown, so I wont be able to do much cycling until 5th March.
I was wondering which headset bearing is on the top and bottom of the Fork? the wider one or the narrow one?
The internal wiring is very difficult. I am waiting for a better bottom bracket than the Zrace one.
I assume that you get the internal cabling working before inserting the Bottom bracket. The front derailleur is tricky with the wire protruding from the frame. There is a small allen key bolt on this. Do you tighten it?
Here is an early picture.
Not familiar with this particular frame but what helped me on one of my frames was using a strong magnet to guide the cable(s) to/through the hole. I know Park Tools also sells a internal routing kit that looks like it can be potentially helpful- a shop that I worked a couple of shifts at had one and I can definitely see it being useful depending on the particular situation/application.
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...I assume that you get the internal cabling working before inserting the Bottom bracket. ...
Yes put the BB at the very end.
Maybe send some more detailed pictures of the front dérailleur cable?
Sometimes the front dérailleur end cable has an Allen screw to tighten a metal spring to press it against the frame inside. If it doesn't wobble, it is tightened enough.
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TanTan (Lisa) are sending out the spare derailleur and handlebar spacers via EMS. I might wait for spacers to arrive. China Post are predicting 2 weeks. We are in 5km from home lockdown, so I wont be able to do much cycling until 5th March.
I was wondering which headset bearing is on the top and bottom of the Fork? the wider one or the narrow one?
The internal wiring is very difficult. I am waiting for a better bottom bracket than the Zrace one.
I assume that you get the internal cabling working before inserting the Bottom bracket. The front derailleur is tricky with the wire protruding from the frame. There is a small allen key bolt on this. Do you tighten it?
Here is an early picture.
5km from home... you must be Irish!
This guy has done a series of how to build up a bike with similar cable routing to yours.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CduOA2T3XcE&t=779s&ab_channel=ozcycle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU&ab_channel=ozcycle
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Regarding the headset bearings, I've run them both ways. With the thicker, red in my case, bearing up top, I had to rreally crank down on the top bolt to take the play out of the steerer tube, but there was no effect on the steering stiffness at all. The headset felt decent though.
With the thinner bearing, black in my case, up top, it only took less than 1 and a half turns on the top bolt to practicallly freeze the steering, but it still left more play in the head set.
I did try the FSA headset for a minute, but it didnt feel much different than the TanTan headset with the black.
up top and red down below. I'm running the TanTan now with black top red bottom because it's the last combo I tried and I got tired or messing with it. It's a bit flexy but it is fine.
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Hmm the zrace hybrid hydraulic disc brakes are not an optimal solution together with the internal cable tt-x21 handlebar. You have to pull on your brakes really hard to get an acceptable braking power. Shifting withe the sensah empire would be fine but for me the brakes are a nogo. Had to order a full hydraulic setup.
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Do you need to pull hard on the brakes because of the routing? Or just because the brakes itself are bad? I was thinking of these brakes but if they're not good I will go with something else
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Hmm the zrace hybrid hydraulic disc brakes are not an optimal solution together with the internal cable tt-x21 handlebar. You have to pull on your brakes really hard to get an acceptable braking power. Shifting withe the sensah empire would be fine but for me the brakes are a nogo. Had to order a full hydraulic setup.
Do the Sensah shifters work with a full hydraulic disc brake?
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Do the Sensah shifters work with a full hydraulic disc brake?
No, only cable actuated disc brakes
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I think its mostly due to the sharp angles the cables have to take in the integrated stem. But on the other hand even when pulled completely the braking power is far off a hydraulic system.
Sensah is cable only, so I have to switch the complete groupset. Was worth a try :-)
Still the frame looks like it has a very good quality...at least.
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I think its mostly due to the sharp angles the cables have to take in the integrated stem. But on the other hand even when pulled completely the braking power is far off a hydraulic system.
Sensah is cable only, so I have to switch the complete groupset. Was worth a try :-)
Still the frame looks like it has a very good quality...at least.
I am planning a build with Sensah and the cable actuated hydraulic brakes and I have a couple questions for you.
Did you try the brakes with compressionless cable housing?
Have you tried switching out the stock pads for a sintered set?
Have you tried a 160 rotor on the front?
Even with the weak braking was it possible to lock up the wheels and skid?
Sorry for all the questions I just want to know before I invest my money in the same set up!
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I used normal cable housings, stock brake pads and 140 disc. I was not able to lock the wheels but this is more or less normal with new pads/disc. The most disturbing thing is the force you need to apply to brake. Its way higher than on the rim brakes on my other bikes.
I'm sure you could optimize things with certain updates but I doubt that its possible to have a good solution. The brakes may have save my live once...
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I used normal cable housings, stock brake pads and 140 disc. I was not able to lock the wheels but this is more or less normal with new pads/disc. The most disturbing thing is the force you need to apply to brake. Its way higher than on the rim brakes on my other bikes.
I'm sure you could optimize things with certain updates but I doubt that its possible to have a good solution. The brakes may have save my live once...
I'm 68kg, and I had my fair share of fear with a 140mm front on fast descents.
160mm F/140mm R works well for me.
Did you consider the hybrid ones? Cable + hydro callipers?
ZRACE are doing some that looks good.
Unfortunately due to slow shipping, I wasn't able to get all pieces to mount the bike.
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I'm 68kg, and I had my fair share of fear with a 140mm front on fast descents.
160mm F/140mm R works well for me.
Did you consider the hybrid ones? Cable + hydro callipers?
ZRACE are doing some that looks good.
Unfortunately due to slow shipping, I wasn't able to get all pieces to mount the bike.
I used the Jagwire compressionless cables, I haven’t tried the yet.
The cable actuated disc breaks have a small amount of mineral oil in the unit that compressed the callipers onto the disc. I haven’t completed the built yet to report on the progress.
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It's probably worth making a new thread for these brakes to discuss peoples findings and expeiences. If we can find a way to get them working optimally and consistent we have a really useful piece of equipment on our hands. So much cheaper and so much lighter than a full hydraulic set up and without the fuss of bleeding brakes. TraceVelo says he has 90% of the stopping power that hydraulic gives him.
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It's probably worth making a new thread for these brakes to discuss peoples findings and expeiences. If we can find a way to get them working optimally and consistent we have a really useful piece of equipment on our hands. So much cheaper and so much lighter than a full hydraulic set up and without the fuss of bleeding brakes. TraceVelo says he has 90% of the stopping power that hydraulic gives him.
That was with the 140mm rotors so with 160mm rotors it will probably be almost the same i guess. I'm going to order them and when I get them I will make a post about them
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Don't set too much hope in these brakes. Especially with a completly inner cable routing like with the tt-x21 frame with sharp turns you won't get a braking performance close to a hydraulic setup.
If someone else achieves better results with this combination than me I'm interested to hear but for me the it was just not what I could accept.
I'm switching to shimano ultegra di2. Will be easier to route through the stem anyway :-)
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That was with the 140mm rotors so with 160mm rotors it will probably be almost the same i guess. I'm going to order them and when I get them I will make a post about them
Definitely share your experiences!
I'm interested in these brakes to build a cheap commuting bike but am still on the fence. From what I understand, you absolutely need compressionless cable housing (such as Jagwire KEB-SL) for cable-actuated disk brakes. The brakes also seem to have a tension adjustment. I'm hoping the combination of these two should give adequate braking.
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The only person I have ever seen actually set the brakes up properly (trace velo) was very impressed with the braking performance on his internally routed frame.
160mm rotors
Compressionless cable housing
Proper sintered pads
Another problem can be cable pull. He used 105 shifters which have a longer cable pull than Sensah or SRAM therefore giving the brakes more power.
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I ordered the brakes and will let you know when they arrive (probably in a month or so).
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Yes I can confirm that the sensah brake lever have quite long way of free stroke before they acually start to pull the cable. In addition the cable is attached at a different spot on the lever compared to the shimano ones, giving them a different way/force ratio.
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Hearing cracks when you press a BB is not anormal. It is even a sign of a tight fit.
The BBInfinite ones make a scary noise.
It will be interesting to know if the SRAM cracks less, being in plastic.
My tt-x21 just arrived and I sized the bottom bracket and it is smaller than spec. FYI this is the 3rd bike I have purchased from TanTan (other 2 were mtbs) and ALL of them have undersized bottom bracket shells.
On the first mtb I installed a hambini bottom bracket and once installed the cranks did not spin smoothly because of all the pressure that the frame was putting on the bottom bracket. I took bearings out of BB and then slightly increased the size of the bottom bracket bearing landings with a whiffle/flap wheel. Then reinserted a new bearing and all is good.
On 2nd mtb (also an undersized bb shell) I used a whiffle / flap wheel on the carbon frame before I put the hambine BB into the frame and all seems to be working fine.
Bottom line is I think they do not check specs on their bb shells very well and they know that if they ship one that is oversized it's a more apparent problem to the customer than an undersized on.
FYI I now have a special tool that I can fit into the BB shell to see if it is oversized. For this TT-X21 I will be using the whiffle / flap wheel on the frame. I wish I did not have to but.....
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Hey fellow TT-X21 owners. Quick question.
What did you do for the top cap. I expected some kind of custom top cap to come with the bike because otherwise you are looking at the ugly clamp tightening bolt whenever you look down at the headset. I have attached a pre-build picture for reference.
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You have a different handlebar and stem than I do. The bolt for the top cap to the compression plug has a rubber cap that covers the hex bolt. The compression plug that comes with the X-21 is pretty worthless. It slips constantly. I switched it out for an FSA compression plug. If you replace your compression plug for less than $20 USD, you can have a much better plug and use the cap that comes with the TanTan plug to cover that bolt, maybe.
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You have a different handlebar and stem than I do. The bolt for the top cap to the compression plug has a rubber cap that covers the hex bolt. The compression plug that comes with the X-21 is pretty worthless. It slips constantly. I switched it out for an FSA compression plug. If you replace your compression plug for less than $20 USD, you can have a much better plug and use the cap that comes with the TanTan plug to cover that bolt, maybe.
Really? My one piece stem/handlebar is the same as the one pictured on the tantan wesbite here http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=843
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You have a different handlebar and stem than I do. The bolt for the top cap to the compression plug has a rubber cap that covers the hex bolt. The compression plug that comes with the X-21 is pretty worthless. It slips constantly. I switched it out for an FSA compression plug. If you replace your compression plug for less than $20 USD, you can have a much better plug and use the cap that comes with the TanTan plug to cover that bolt, maybe.
Reading your message. What cap that comes with the TanTan? I am not sure I recieved one. Would you mind taking a picture of yours? I have ordered an FSA top cap which I hope to sand down to the right fit and cover that ugly hex bolt (https://www.randombikeparts.com/products/fsa-vision-aero-carbon-headset-top-cap-670-4000-for-integrated-bar-new?gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfJIolD15H7uCna22UH0cC07CM0J-60xlq3oq55hr90dETA0LAVpYthoCG9oQAvD_BwE)
And I have a different expander plug which I will use.
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This is the integrated handlebar and stem that came with my frame.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=623
Here is the top cap from TanTan, on my bike, along with the compression plug that I'm not using. The TanTan top cap works with the compression plug that came with the FSA ACR headset. There is a rubber cover that fits over the bolt, but I stopped using it and can't seem to track it down.
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Hey fellow TT-X21 owners. Quick question.
What did you do for the top cap. I expected some kind of custom top cap to come with the bike because otherwise you are looking at the ugly clamp tightening bolt whenever you look down at the headset. I have attached a pre-build picture for reference.
There was a top cap coming with my frame. There remains only a little hole above the clamp bolt. I will cover this hole with a little rubber plug later.
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There was a top cap coming with my frame. There remains only a little hole above the clamp bolt. I will cover this hole with a little rubber plug later.
Yes that is what I was expecting. They are going to send another one and in the mean time I (or my son actually) will have an ugly topcap to look at. They also forgot to ship the spare seatpost and handlebar and seatpost that I ordered. Would not be so bad if it was overnight shipping but it takes forever to get to me. Over a month for my shipment and 8 weeks from order date to arrival on my doorstep.
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I am expecting delivery of spare handlebar spacers soon.
What height do you cut the fork at relative to the handlebars?
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How did you all choose between the TT-X23, TT-X24, and TT-X21? They all look similarly priced. Did you all pass on the TT-X3 because of the BB386 bottom bracket?
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How did you all choose between the TT-X23, TT-X24, and TT-X21? They all look similarly priced. Did you all pass on the TT-X3 because of the BB386 bottom bracket?
I just ordered the TT-X21.
I initially ordered the ICAN Triaero A9 frameset but had to return it because of some quality issues.
For me the next frame set closest to the ICAN A9 to buy is the the TT-X21. Hence it was easy to make the choice.
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From experience does anyone have an idea where TanTan ships the TT-X21 from?
I made an order and it was shipped from Tianjin City but TanTan website shows Shenzhen City as their location.
I googled which carbon bike manufacture is located at Tianjin City and the result shows that the big guys "Fuji-ta" are located at Tianjin City.
Could this mean TanTan is also outsourcing the TT-X21 like a few other websites selling this similar frameset geometry?
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I am expecting delivery of spare handlebar spacers soon.
What height do you cut the fork at relative to the handlebars?
Just about every set of instructions I saw on cutting the steerer says, once you determine how many spacers you will use, to mark the tube at top surface of the stem, then cut 3 mm below that mark to give the top cap enough space to tighten the headset. In the case of the X21, of course, you mark the steerer tube at the top surface of the integrated handlebars.
With the TanTan top cap and compression plug I got with my headset, though, I actually had to use a 5mm spacer above the handlebar to have enough space to tighten down the headset after I cut the tube. The bottom surface of the top cap bulges into the space above the top of the steerer tube and didn't allow me to tighten down the headset enough with just a 3mm space I had after I cut the steerer.
So, I guess it kinda depends on what compression plug and top cap you are going to use. Apologies if that doesn't answer your question.
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How did you all choose between the TT-X23, TT-X24, and TT-X21? They all look similarly priced. Did you all pass on the TT-X3 because of the BB386 bottom bracket?
The TT-X3 was my first choice. It was out of stock when I ordered back in November. Back then, they told me it would be available in March. My second choice was actually the TT-X22. That would have been my first choice, but it cost twice as much. I went with the TT-X21 because that's what they said was in stock and ready to ship, and I didnt have to pay $599 for it.
If I had it to do all over again, I probably would have gone with the Velobuild 099 if I'd know about it. It's costs even less than what I paid for the X21, with way cheaper shipping charges. Now that I have my bike build and have been riding it for a few weeks now, I don't have any regrets though about going with TanTan and not knowing about Velobuild.
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How did you all choose between the TT-X23, TT-X24, and TT-X21? They all look similarly priced. Did you all pass on the TT-X3 because of the BB386 bottom bracket?
. Availability. And it was bb86.
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Hi all,
Have you had experience with play on your frame? If yes how did you resolve it?
I had an issue with the headset, as it didn’t matter how tight I made it, the sort of half ring that stays in between the steerer tube and the top bearing seemed a fraction to small, causing the play that become extremely noticeable when I assembled the bike and used the front brake to rock the bike back and forth.
Cheers
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Hi all,
Have you had experience with play on your frame? If yes how did you resolve it?
I had an issue with the headset, as it didn’t matter how tight I made it, the sort of half ring that stays in between the steerer tube and the top bearing seemed a fraction to small, causing the play that become extremely noticeable when I assembled the bike and used the front brake to rock the bike back and forth.
Cheers
Yes, this was an issue from day one. I went to my lbs and the tech set me up with a set of head set spacers. They are super thin, .25mm each. They sit on top of the lock ring, the half ring, that sits on top of your bearings. A stack of three worked for me, but I bought an FSA ACR headset awhile back, hoping to fix the problem that way.
To make a long painful story short, I could tighten down the headset, but then the steering would bind, with the fork rubbing up against the head tube at the bottome, and the top cover rubbing up against the head tube at the top. I tried an FSA ACR headset, but that didn't solve the issue completely, but it did help. I ended up using one of the fatter ACR bearings at the bottom, and the fatter TanTan bearing at the top, along with the fatter FSA Lock Ring at the top, but I couldn't completely eliminate the play withing binding up the steering.
These spacers worked like a charm. No headset play at all and butter smooth steering. Yuo'll have to cut a notch in the spacers for the cables, but that's pretty simple, and you'll just have to play with the amount of spacers it takes. They come in different thicknesses.
Good luck!
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No problem here at all. The half ring sits perfect. Did you connect the half ring properly to the top bearing cover?
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No problem here at all. The half ring sits perfect. Did you connect the half ring properly to the top bearing cover?
I think this may be an issue with TanTan frames, with small differences from one frame to the next, maybe. My issue was never with setting the ring correctly. The TanTan ring would snap nicely into the TanTan bearing all the time. My problem was the stack height for the bearings + crown race + ring was never right.
I actually have two different headsets, the TanTan supplied one and an FSA ACR. The bearings are all 1.5 36 + 45 and all fit into the frame's 1.5" inch integrated cups snugly, without play, but they are all different heights. Between the 4 bearings, 2 rings, and 2 crown races, the stack height can be all over the place. Using any combination of pieces, I either had a stack height that locked up my steering against the head tube before tightening the headset, at the top cap or the forks, or even both, or just wouldn't allow tightening the headset at all.
Those spacers I got from my lbs were just the trick. They allowed me to dial in the stack height of the top bearing and ring. I just had to have a bottom bearing and crown race that fit well enough to not lock up the steering at the forks after tightening down the headset. All good now.
I think if you use the thicker TanTan bearing at the bottom, and the thinner bearing at the top, you can adjust the height at the top cap and still have enough space at the forks.
Hope thate makes sense.
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Thx FHS
I fitted the bottom bracket today.
Chain and tuning tomorrow
I put the big bearing on the bottom of the fork.
What torque does you set the compression cap too?
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The top cap? 2ish Nm. Didn't take much to tighten down the head set once I got everything sorted out.
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The top cap? 2ish Nm. Didn't take much to tighten down the head set once I got everything sorted out.
OK 2NM seems a bit low.
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You "could" tighten it more. The instructions for the FSA top cap I was using says you can go up to 5 Nm, but you're supposed to tighten "until proper bearing load is achieved". The instructions say 6-9 Nm for the compression plug itself. <edit: do not overtighten your compression plug, even if it is slipping! I never got close to 9 Nm, and decided to try a different one rather than risk cracking my steer tube.>
My experience with my frame has been that if I had to use more torque than 2, maybe 3, definitely not more than 4 Nm, then it was because the bearings weren't loading correctly. The biggest issue I had early on was that the TanTan compression plug kept slipping, no matter how much I tightened the plug itself, so the top cap was never able to tighten down the headset regardless of the torque used on the top cap. When I switched to the FSA plug, it held much better, and that's when I started having issues with binding up the steering. The binding would happen at around 1 or 2 Nm on the top cap.
Seems like it is sorted out now, and it really doesn't take much torque on the top cap to load up the bearings properly.
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No problem here at all. The half ring sits perfect. Did you connect the half ring properly to the top bearing cover?
Hi, it is not an issue of the bearing cover, as without even going that far, the steering tube has play within the lock-ring/half ring. It really is minimal, as I’d have to hold the frame’s head tube and move the fork. Minimal enough to be really noticeable when braking, felt like the steering tube was somewhat loose, even if everything was locked and tight (cover and spacers included).
In fact I resolved by putting some electrical tape in the inside of the ring, which eliminated the play. So it looks like it is either the ring or the steerer tube which is slightly wrong.
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Finally went for a ride on my TT-X21.
Very stiff, very light and quick to pick up speed.
Very light on hills.
ZRace discs are a bit spongy.
Sensah front derailleur is hit and miss.
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Hello all, this thread turned up to be very diverse. A few of you already completed their builds and my I still a work in progress...
I'm in the process of finishing the paint job (it was harder then I anticipated, of course :P).
In the pictures the frame is still glossy (and not very good of that...). The finished thing will be matte and hopefully the clear cote quality will be higher ;D
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Very nice result. Congrats!
Did you consider ceramic coating ? It looks to resist better to scratches and hits.
One day I will paint my frame :)
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One day I will paint my frame :)
Highly recommend spray.bike (http://spray.bike). Had some great results with it, very easy to use.
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Highly recommend spray.bike (http://spray.bike). Had some great results with it, very easy to use.
Thanks! That is a great idea to build a shop like this.
Too bad the top notice..."This website ships from the UK. EU orders may be subject to an additional customs fee."
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They have a lot of local distributors. Several in Belgium, where I picked some of mine up ;-) (a few years ago)
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Very nice result. Congrats!
Did you consider ceramic coating ? It looks to resist better to scratches and hits.
One day I will paint my frame :)
Thank you :)
I will have to check on that. For now I really want to finish the paint job and get to build the bike.
Highly recommend spray.bike (http://spray.bike). Had some great results with it, very easy to use.
My original idea was to use spray cans, but I ended up buying a spray gun. I have a friend that works at a professional paint store, he sourced (and advised) on the paints and clears...
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They have a lot of local distributors. Several in Belgium, where I picked some of mine up ;-) (a few years ago)
Thanks again. I didn't see it on their website. Good news, to motivate me to paint a next build.
I'll ask my sister who's art teacher some advice ???
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Thanks again. I didn't see it on their website. Good news, to motivate me to paint a next build.
I'll ask my sister who's art teacher some advice ???
Buy/use some metal pipes and practice on that.
But not just paint, do the whole thing: primer, paint and clear coat...
To get the basics right, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WGvdpoAv-o
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Thanks !
Who is your contact person and email at TanTan ?
I'm looking to build a couple of hardtails, and could start working with them.
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Thanks !
Who is your contact person and email at TanTan ?
I'm looking to build a couple of hardtails, and could start working with them.
You can try Lisa, she's who I work/worked with. She's still answering emails and filling orders for me. I have no complaints.
info@tantancycling.com
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You can try Lisa, she's who I work/worked with. She's still answering emails and filling orders for me. I have no complaints.
Really? No complaints other than the brusque attitude and continual underestimation of shipment dates.
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Final build done. A number of small inconveniences that you would likely not get with a known brand frame. Specifically:
1) BB86 bottom bracket undersized (again - 3rd frame this has happened on)
2) No cover provided for the seat post. Most others include a rubber cover that will stop water/sweat getting into the seat tube and stop the seat tube expander bolt from rusting
3) Forgot to ship the oval shaped top cap. It's also my understanding that the expander plug bolt will still be visible with their custom sized top cap which will mean water ingress into headset etc.
4) I ordered a spare seatpost, handlebar and headset spacer set which they forgot to ship and still have not arrived.
5) They did paint and painted over the brake mounts which mean I should probably get them faced. They were extremely hard to get right with no brake rub.
6) Frame hole located at bottom of the seatpost where the front derailleur cable comes out was misshapen so there's a small hole where water can get in
7) The misshapen frame hole had a plug device for the cable but it anticipated outer cable through the frame and only inner cable wire outside of the frame but I am running the outer derailleur cable from the handlebar all the way to the front derailleur so I had to go and try and source a plug/grommet that was similar to the one that is used by the rear brake cable where it come out of the nondrive side chainstay.
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And look at the hambini bb in action on tt-x21 frame after I had to take the whiffle/flap wheel to expand the size of the bottom bracket to the correct diameter.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jqDX23VkSLZuZtq9A
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Final build done.
Damn! I won't be able to reproduce it ;)
You look to be the unlucky one with TanTan. Many seems happy.
Your experience worries me obviously, but statistically it should be good ???
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BB well that's shit, but common across big brands too.
Painting brake mounts is really sloppy. Tends to suggest their painters either don't know bikes or don't care. Masking takes 30 seconds.
Not shipping seatpost cover or all the spare parts you ordered isn't a case of forgetting, I would imagine - especially as you say they still haven't rectified this. They're likely low on parts and don't want to have less parts than frames.
You're brave refacing the BB shell, but looks super smooth now.
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Sorry to hear of your problems with your TT-X21.
I ordered extra parts with my TT-X21 that were not shipped. They did sent the spare derailleur and handlebar spacers via EMS. To be fair, they turned up quite quickly.
I have three problems after 100km of riding.
1) The front derailleur of the sensah empire pro is very hit and miss. It is hard to get the right cable tension in it. I might switch to a 105. This is more a problem with the groupset rather then the frame.
2) There is play in the rear wheels. This will require tightening bearings. Again not a frame issue.
3) There is play in the headset. It is minor and does not effect braking. I have ordered a longer compression cap that may fixe this. I know that previously in this forum, someone used light spacers.
I didn't get the frame painted, so no issues with over painting brake mounts.
I didn't use the Zrace bottom bracket, opting instead for the SRAM dub BB86. It works quite well and I have no complaints.
Another issue with the bike is the saddle that I chose. An all carbon fibre seat was not the best idea, so i am looking for a replacement.
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Really? No complaints other than the brusque attitude and continual underestimation of shipment dates.
Sorry to hear that. But, yeah, for me, really, no complaints. Sounds like I had a much better experience, though, with shipping and follow-up. I guess I should add the disclaimer, YMMV.
Your build looks fantastic!
I had a ton of issues with my build, but I chalked most of those up to my inexperience with bike building. I'd say the biggest issues I had would be with the fork/front wheel through axle fit and head tube/headset bearing fit. For both of those, I had to throw in the towel and go to my LBS. About $5 worth of spacers and washers later, it's all good.
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3) There is play in the headset. It is minor and does not effect braking. I have ordered a longer compression cap that may fixe this. I know that previously in this forum, someone used light spacers.
Yeah, I think that's me. I didn't think the fit was terrible and the play wasn't that bad, really, but it did bug me because the whole headset/bearing/top cap/compression plug just weren't working the way they were supposed to work. Finally got it solved with new bearings, new compression ring, new compression plug, and a few spacers. Definitely needed the new compression plug and spacers, but looking back, it probably would work fine with the TanTan headset bearings and compression ring.
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Thanks !
Who is your contact person and email at TanTan ?
I'm looking to build a couple of hardtails, and could start working with them.
Sorry for the late replay...
I talked with Rose Huang, email: sales@tantancycling.com
I ordered an extra derailleur hanger the was not shipped initially but she send it later very quickly.
She was very nice, have no complaints so far.
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Sorry for the late replay...
I talked with Rose Huang, email: sales@tantancycling.com
I ordered an extra derailleur hanger the was not shipped initially but she send it later very quickly.
She was very nice, have no complaints so far.
No worries, I got a contact with Lisa already, she was fast to reply, so far so good !
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Really? No complaints other than the brusque attitude and continual underestimation of shipment dates.
i had a very similar experience but didnt use the fm659 frame after it finally arrived months after it was supposed to. sold it to someone in the area as i figured the headache would continue.
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Really? No complaints other than the brusque attitude and continual underestimation of shipment dates.
No complaints about the frame here. Everything fitted well in my case. The only problem I had was with the groupset sensah/zrace which didn't work properly in combination with the frame. Since I switched to ultegra di2/hydraulic setup my bike works like a charm.
Of course I could argue with little complaints about missing rubber caps or minor paint imperfections here and there but there is nothing you could not solve yourself. Thats the price you pay if you start a project chinese road bike :-) Overall I'm more than happy with the outcome. Keep the fingers crossed there wont be a crack in the frame or something similar soon :-)
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I finally gave up on the Sensah Empire Pro front derailleur on the TT-X21 and decided to remove the inner cable arrangement and went for a Shimano 105 7000 front Mech. It has an option to thread the outer housing to the derailleur. Two good features include the cable tensioning screw and anchor screw to the derailleur hanger. I found a fitting that allows the housing to leave the frame. As this is just in front of the wheel and will allow water into the frame, I plan to seal it with Silicone.
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I found a fitting that allows the housing to leave the frame.
Where did you get it? The stock fitting is a pain.
The 105 shifts flawlessly when it's adjusted correctly, really nice, but mine had a tendency to need readjusting every few rides. Might have had something to do with the fiddly cable fitting. I switched to Ultegra and have had fewer issues with adjustment, but I also spent a lot of time securing down the fitting when I switched out the mechs.
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I finally gave up on the Sensah Empire Pro front derailleur on the TT-X21 and decided to remove the inner cable arrangement and went for a Shimano 105 7000 front Mech. It has an option to thread the outer housing to the derailleur. Two good features include the cable tensioning screw and anchor screw to the derailleur hanger. I found a fitting that allows the housing to leave the frame. As this is just in front of the wheel and will allow water into the frame, I plan to seal it with Silicone.
I used a similar fitting. What silicone product will you use to seal it?
And for the other person that was wanting to know where to get the fitting here is a link to one at aliexpress. There are lots of others though on ebay and others with slightly different design. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002023414027.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5c9a4c4dMU2pPe
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Hi!
So I'm thinking of ordering this (or the vb-r-099), but I'm unsure of which size to choose.
I'm 175.5 cm (5'9) but have short legs, my inseam is around 77cm. I also got short arms, arm span is 169 cm.
Could anyone help me doing a wise judgment choosing between size 52 and 50?
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I think you have enough torso for both.
If you prefer comfort, take the 52.
The handlebar will be higher relative to the saddle.
If you are more on the race side and flexible, you could take the 50 with a long stem, but ending more cramped.
A real bike fit session, made by a good person would make you sure.
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Thanks for the tip! We're in lockdown, and will be for a while, so I can't get a fit and want to get going.
I see now I wrote wrong, I meant 52 or 54. The seller has pointed me towards a 54. Would you then say to go for 52?
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I'm 170cm, 75cm inseam. I ordered a size 49 frame. But I'm not riding it yet...
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Thanks for the tip! We're in lockdown, and will be for a while, so I can't get a fit and want to get going.
I see now I wrote wrong, I meant 52 or 54. The seller has pointed me towards a 54. Would you then say to go for 52?
I'm 178cm, but with 89cm inseam and ride 54 with a 90mm stem.
So 54 should still be good. Short legs is not a problem with bikes :)
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Echoing what Carbonazza said. I'm 178 cm with a 81 cm inseam. My choice was between a 56 and a 54. I went with a 56. Either would have been fine for me personally, but I don't have a lot of flexibilty. I can run a reasonably racier stance on a 56 with just a 100mm stem and just one 10mm headset spacer. I'd could have run a longer stem but I'd need a few more spacers.
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I'm 5'10" with a 30.5in inseam( I think thats about a 178cm height with 77cm inseam) I'm riding a 52 and I think it was the perfect choice. Haven't had a real bike fit because of covid but my old bike was a 54(granted it had a different geo) and didn't allow for much to be changed to get a comfotable fit. I was already using a 165 crank and had the seatpost in the lowest position. With a 52 for this frame I was able to play with crank length , stem and saddle height to get it feeling real nice.
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Thanks for all the replies! I’m gonna go for a 52, and I think the 100 mm stem.
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Does anyone know where I might find a rubber grommet type thing like the one in this picture? Tantan does not ship one with the TT=X21 (god knows why - it's only a $1 item).
TIA, Lloyd
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Does anyone know where I might find a rubber grommet type thing like the one in this picture? Tantan does not ship one with the TT=X21 (god knows why - it's only a $1 item).
TIA, Lloyd
Would not mind one of those either. Don't think it'll be included with the velobuild 168
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Hello all,
My first post here, I bought a TT-X3 frame from Seraph/Tan Tan. It took more than 2 months to arrive. Communication during the wait time was mediocre. Questions were not answered. But, when I arrived I was happy. It looked beautiful! Nicely build, paint great.
The bike was build by a friend, which was a professional bike builder for many years.
HOWEVER! After riding ONLY 8 KM/5 miles, the seatpost collapsed and I nearly crashed. A small crack in the frame appeared. I am only 80kg heavy and the frame lasted less then 10 km.
I contacted the company, they said they would make it an emergency call. After a couple of days they said they would send a new frame but not a new seatpost (which was heavily damaged by the collapse). A long conversation started but they would not take responsibility. I bought the frame via Ali-express due to their (in my experience) good customer protection which I really needed in this case. Seraph made a threat, if I would post a one star review (how could I give any better than one star with a 'quality' like this?), they wouldn't send a new frame. How about customer service?!
During the dispute process, Seraph made two propositions, 1: new frame, that's it. 2: send all back, get my money back. However, shipping would be more than the cost of the frame.
Ali judge ruled in my favor. I will get my money back.
This was my first chinese frame. I knew it would be a risk, I got a really shitty frame. It wont be my last, I will going to buy a Velobuild or Ican frame.
BUT BE WARNED, DON'T BUY FROM TAN TAN/SERAPH!
A lot of you guys won't have any issues and ride your frame without any issues. However, if you are unlucky like me, you're screwed with this BS company!
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Although there are many people here, happy from their frame.
They show regularly very poor after sale service.
Still not sure about ordering hardtails from them.
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Hello everyone!
My TT-X21 bike is finally completed, It's missing the handlebar tape and some adjustments... But overall it's done, I road tested it yesterday (just a 1 km ride to check if nothing falls or breaks).
I will try to post a video soon about the process..
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Looks good. Did you do the paint or did they?
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I did the paint job.
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Hello guys,
finally a few days ago my TT-X3 frame arrived. I like it very much, however I am not so sure about the fork. Firstly the shaft is not evenly round, so that the top cap does not slide into it. I might fix this by grinding away some of the material on the inside. I don't think that should be an issue as the wall thickness is quite high.
The other thing is that the dropouts are exactly 93mm apart, which means that I have to apply a considerable amount of force to bend the fork to be able to put the wheel in. What do you guys think of this problem, is that something I have to accept, or is it way above acceptable manufacturing tolerance?
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Is your steerer tube like that, even after being cut down?
My front fork is at 100mm exactly, but I do have issues. There is play in the front wheel no matter how hard the thru axle is tightened down.
When I was having headset issues, I took the entire bike to my LBS and he figured out that some of the front end slop came from the fork as well as the headset. He put a washer on the front thru axle and that seems to have fixed the symptoms, enough for me to be able to ride "comfortably" downhill at 45+ mph anyway. Still, the fork issue is there without the band aid.
I don't know how smart it is for me to be riding my bike the way the front fork is, so I have a hard time giving you advice. I haven't contacted TanTan about what's going on with mine. Maybe that's a place to start, for both of us.
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Hello guys,
finally a few days ago my TT-X3 frame arrived. I like it very much, however I am not so sure about the fork. Firstly the shaft is not evenly round, so that the top cap does not slide into it. I might fix this by grinding away some of the material on the inside. I don't think that should be an issue as the wall thickness is quite high.
The other thing is that the dropouts are exactly 93mm apart, which means that I have to apply a considerable amount of force to bend the fork to be able to put the wheel in. What do you guys think of this problem, is that something I have to accept, or is it way above acceptable manufacturing tolerance?
93mm is way too narrow. I'd send it back or ask them to send a replacement. Let us know how you get along.
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Thanks for your replies.
@FHS: I haven't yet cut the shaft, as I'm still waiting for my spacer set to arrive. Can't imagine that cutting a few centimeters off the shaft would change anything regarding the distance between the dropouts, though.
Did he put the washer between wheel and fork or between the lever of the thru axle and the fork?
@Idavies: I've already contacted them and sent them a photo of the measurement. They told me that I would have to bend the fork a little bit to let the wheel slide in. I think I should send them a video of the procedure to make a clear point that it's not possible by gently pulling the fork arms apart but rather having to apply a considerable amount of force with a full grip of both hands.
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You will need to insist with them. And be prepared to fight. And I hope you did not pay with Paypal "friends and family". That is your backup if they do not agree to send you another one. I would not waste too much time arguing with them before you tell them you have no choice but to take it up with Paypal. At that point hopefully they will capitulate. 7mm is not ok!
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“Bend the fork”
That is so blatantly not supposed to happen with open molds.
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Hi All,
I'm seriously considering going Shimano Di2. I have 0 experience with Di2 a part from a couple of general information videos. My understanding is that ill need to install a couple of junction boxes, a battery, and some cables, along with the shifters and derailleurs.
My understanding is that the TT X21 is already set up to run Di2 and that the front junction box has the mount in the downtube. Is that correct? Where would the other components, the battery and the second junction box go?
Am I missing anything? Any tips?
Thanks!
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Well that would make it a very special bike. There's a good site that will give you advice https://bettershifting.com/. Also if want to eliminate drivetrain wires completely consider SRAM. But maybe first of all have a look at availability and what is available - practically nothing. And then go with whatever you can actually buy.
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I built a di2 bike using a yoeleo r11 frame a few months ago. My thread (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3237.0.html) has an exhaustive list of the components you need. Happy to help/clarify.
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Good site. I would have loved to have gone SRAM at the outset, but availability was a serious issue back then. Now, I'm just heading down the Shimano upgrade path. Thanks again!
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Hi all. Just want to add as a note for anyone looking to get the TT-X21 / vb-r-099 frame set. Make sure to put the seat post setback into account when measuring the top tube / reach / Handlebar length.
This also goes for any frame with a seat post that is proprietary to the frameset.
Ya, my 099 / TT-X21 seat post setback is so backward that my knees does not track with the center of my pedals at 3 O'clock pedal position. Not to mention the fact that the seat post setback makes me stretch too far forward to reach my handlebars. This was an expensive oversight when measuring the top tube and reach based on my previous road bike frame which had a zero setback seat post. Not to mention that these frames have no resale value because they are none branded. You just have to get a new frameset.
TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
So I am looking at getting the BXT-ROAD-115 or VB-R-177 because you can run a standard 27.2 seat post with a zero setback if you want.
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TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
The major reason I pass over a lot of frames. My FM066sl with 27.2 seat post is still going strong.
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Has anyone built this frame up with a 32mm tire? This seems to be high on my list of road race frames than can fit a 32.
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Mine is running fine on 28mm.
Loads of clearance!
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Has anyone built this frame up with a 32mm tire? This seems to be high on my list of road race frames than can fit a 32.
Yes fits well, I have a Velobuild vb-r-099 is the same as TT-X21.
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I think this may be an issue with TanTan frames, with small differences from one frame to the next, maybe. My issue was never with setting the ring correctly. The TanTan ring would snap nicely into the TanTan bearing all the time. My problem was the stack height for the bearings + crown race + ring was never right.
I actually have two different headsets, the TanTan supplied one and an FSA ACR. The bearings are all 1.5 36 + 45 and all fit into the frame's 1.5" inch integrated cups snugly, without play, but they are all different heights. Between the 4 bearings, 2 rings, and 2 crown races, the stack height can be all over the place. Using any combination of pieces, I either had a stack height that locked up my steering against the head tube before tightening the headset, at the top cap or the forks, or even both, or just wouldn't allow tightening the headset at all.
Those spacers I got from my lbs were just the trick. They allowed me to dial in the stack height of the top bearing and ring. I just had to have a bottom bearing and crown race that fit well enough to not lock up the steering at the forks after tightening down the headset. All good now.
I think if you use the thicker TanTan bearing at the bottom, and the thinner bearing at the top, you can adjust the height at the top cap and still have enough space at the forks.
Hope thate makes sense.
Hi all,
I am writing, because I am very upset with the support of TanTan (not my superb TT-X21 Frame) ... I rode it for 1300km right now and it's really fast. Unfortunally I've got the same problems at the front end - the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles - so I guess I have the same issues than some of you here. TanTan won't help me - instead I should buy another bar/stem and another headset, so it's on my to solve the problem: My suggestions would be the ACR headset and another compression ring (where do I get that?), maybe spacers (it looks like room is enough between cover and headtube). Another idea is to change to this here: Ritchey Comp Logic-E. Do you think that should work/fit? I only can read 45 degrees on this bearing. With this headset cover I would change to another stem/bar. Am I right that with this one I would have the use of the half compression ring?
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE (https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE)
I really need your help here - don't want to break something when going fast with this beast...
Best wishes from Germany,
Tim
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Hi all,
I am writing, because I am very upset with the support of TanTan (not my superb TT-X21 Frame) ... I rode it for 1300km right now and it's really fast. Unfortunally I've got the same problems at the front end - the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles - so I guess I have the same issues than some of you here. TanTan won't help me - instead I should buy another bar/stem and another headset, so it's on my to solve the problem: My suggestions would be the ACR headset and another compression ring (where do I get that?), maybe spacers (it looks like room is enough between cover and headtube). Another idea is to change to this here: Ritchey Comp Logic-E. Do you think that should work/fit? I only can read 45 degrees on this bearing. With this headset cover I would change to another stem/bar. Am I right that with this one I would have the use of the half compression ring?
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE (https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE)
I really need your help here - don't want to break something when going fast with this beast...
Best wishes from Germany,
Tim
Can you describe your problem in more detail? You say "the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles".
If everything is fine to begin with, but then a problem is developing after some period of using the bike, then clearly something must be moving/slipping/loosening.
Here are a few thoughts:
-Are you sure you're tightening the stem clamp enough? The two stem clamp bolts on my bike had some excess metal fragments in them which made it difficult to tighten them properly. I felt I was making the bolts really tight but the stem would still not grip the steerer tube enough. I had to clear out the metal fragments in order to make it work properly.
-Have you tried using carbon paste between the stem clamp and steerer tube?
-When you tighten everything up, is your steering perfectly smooth? If it is not smooth and you can feel grinding/rubbing/friction or any movement/wobbling then you probably need some spacers. These are the ones I used: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer
-Have you tightened the compression plug enough before tightening the stem? I used this compression plug: https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/deda-70-mm-headset-expander-plug-for-1-1-8-carbon-forks-1 It was a pretty tight fit but it works very well once installed (on a Velobuild R-099 which I believe is the same frame as the TT-X21).
-Are you sure you trimmed your steerer tube short enough to allow the compression plug to do it's job?
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Hi Tim,
I My first issue was a slipping compression plug. If that's your only issue, here's what comes with the FSA ACR headset, minus the hole for the brake line, which you do not need.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-Pro-Compression-Plug-With-Top-Cap-/274059545505?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
My second problem which I thought I could solve with a completely new FSA ACR headset was the bars binding if the top cap was tightened, even just enough to load the bearings. For that, I just needed a couple of microspacers.
Turns out, just a new compression plug and microspacers probably would have been enough. I do like the FSA ACR bearings and compression ring, along with the compression plug, a lot better though. It all works fine with the stock TanTan top cover and spacers.
Good luck!
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Good luck!
Wow - really helpful input here within some hours. Thank you so much - seems to be a great helpful forum here.
It's very difficult to discribe my problems in english, so I hope I don't forget something. In fact one of my worries is, that my steerer tube is a litte bit to long an so the top-cap doesn't work right. I will post a picture later.
I did a lot of research and try and error with a compression plug and it finally endet with a very long (and heavy one) - my favourite Specialized Plug won't work because it lies on the steerer tube and then I don't have enough space for the cap (same level plug and stem).
In fact it feels like the first few miles are ok and then something feels loose (in fact nothing is lose) - so my guess was, that the half-compression ring has to much clearance or something like that. If I pull my frontbreak and move the rest of the bike (by holding the frame) I feel the movement and a little cracking sound.
I didn't come to a ride so far, but my first thought was to use another spacer to get the stem higher --> top cap problem, so I will try this.
Unfortunally they send me the one bolt bar/stem and say that I have to buy the 2 bolt for XX€.
As you can see I am very upset with the whole front-end and don't now why: bar/stem, headset, compression ring...
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Yeah, headset issues are frustrating. Just take it one step at a time.
Regarding cutting the steerer tube, everything I saw said to cut the tube 3 mm below the top of the stem. Unfortunately, the stock TanTan top cap has a lip and the bottom of the cap extends a couple of mm into the stem. The first time I cut the steerer, there just wasn't enough space under the top cap to load the headset properly. I put a 5 mm spacer above the stem which took care of that issue without having to cut the steerer again.
I think maybe, we are not being clear about what a microspacer is though? A head set spacer fits either under the stem or over the stem, but it goes above the headset cover. Microspacers fit under the headset cover, on top of the compression ring.
https://www.jensonusa.com/FSA-Headset-Microspacers
The do the same thing as a spacer placed above the stem. You get a little more space to tighten down the top cap. But, they do that by lifting the top cover slightly, just enough so that your head set cover doesn't bind against the top of your head set cup when you tighten the top cap bolt. I used snips to cut a notch to match the notch in the compression ring, but they finally fixed the biggest issue with my head set which was the stack height of the bearings.
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(https://s20.directupload.net/images/220210/temp/joinygmy.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net/file/d/6455/joinygmy_jpg.htm)
This is the spacer-setup I want to ride - in my view the top cap lies on the stem, but as written it could be, that the steerer tube is too long. Yesterday I did my first ride this year with this bike and used one more spacer. It feels better, but not perfect - I still hear a clicking sound if I pull the frontbrake and move the frame. I heard something about electrical band here - could this be helpful?
And another question: how to cut the steerer tube for 2-3mm with the brake-routing mounted?
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(https://s20.directupload.net/images/220210/temp/joinygmy.jpg) (https://www.directupload.net/file/d/6455/joinygmy_jpg.htm)
This is the spacer-setup I want to ride - in my view the top cap lies on the stem, but as written it could be, that the steerer tube is too long. Yesterday I did my first ride this year with this bike and used one more spacer. It feels better, but not perfect - I still hear a clicking sound if I pull the frontbrake and move the frame. I heard something about electrical band here - could this be helpful?
And another question: how to cut the steerer tube for 2-3mm with the brake-routing mounted?
Yeah, you need to either add a spacer or cut the steerer tube for starters, then go from there. If you don't want to mess up your handlebar height, you can add a 5mm spacer above the stem. That's probably the easiest thing to do.
Here's the video I watched when I needed to cut the steerer, but I didn't want to reroute the brake hoses. It still works for integrated handlebars, you just don't have as much hose to work with when you need to move the bars out of the way. I don't have a fancy cutting guide. I just use a cheap and appropriately sized hose clamp.
https://youtu.be/dtsiypoaWhI
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"I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168). They don't want to front it.
Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down. Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould."
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34409.html#msg34409
If you are interest in a zero setback seat post for the TT-X21 you can checkout the 099 conversation in the above link.
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Yeah, you need to either add a spacer or cut the steerer tube for starters, then go from there.
https://youtu.be/dtsiypoaWhI
Hi,
I put another spacer in there, did my first race this year and really felt uncomfortable/unsafe over 50kp/h. The whole frontend just don‘t feel good and i really can‘t exactly tell why. My first guess is the half compression ring - i really would like to use the whole acr system but then noticed the different placed „dots“… are there any options to ride with another ring?
Ann from TanTan wanted a Video of the assembly - if I am doing anything wrong here please tell me. Any chance to get a better feeling/result with another bar/stem?
https://youtu.be/vKrsinEOeiE
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The compression ring from the FSA headset worked fine with my TanTan headset cover. I did cover the top surface with some tacky tape but it probably didnt need it. Not sure what else to suggest other than to let a tech take look a it.
I'd show you my set-up but it's currently mothballed.
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Hey over there,
as written above my first impressions/misgivings were instability in the front end - thinking about the headset and later the stem/bar. At first I found out that the bolt for this one-bold stem hindered the topcap bold to tighten, after fixing this with a standard topcap by myself I finally found the real problem: the fork seems to be flexing a lot...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJV5Xtoyqs0
--> Everything is tightened with correct NM - a friend of mine said after watching this video anything should be loose, but the is nothing, it's just flexing.
Well, I bought the frame in summer, my first mails about my problems to Ann were in autumn... I really think this must be under warranty.
Everything about 55km/h is undrivable (and I drove about 100km/h with other bikes).
What are your thoughts?
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Really hard to see that there is a problem from this video but I am not an expert in these matters.
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Hey over there,
as written above my first impressions/misgivings were instability in the front end - thinking about the headset and later the stem/bar. At first I found out that the bolt for this one-bold stem hindered the topcap bold to tighten, after fixing this with a standard topcap by myself I finally found the real problem: the fork seems to be flexing a lot...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJV5Xtoyqs0
--> Everything is tightened with correct NM - a friend of mine said after watching this video anything should be loose, but the is nothing, it's just flexing.
Well, I bought the frame in summer, my first mails about my problems to Ann were in autumn... I really think this must be under warranty.
Everything about 55km/h is undrivable (and I drove about 100km/h with other bikes).
What are your thoughts?
Among the many issues with the headset that I had to work through, the tech at my LBS saw that I had wobble from a loose thru axle that wouldn't tighten down properly. He fitted a washer and that took care of the problem. I suspect others who have bought this frame probably have to deal with the same issue, but you are the only other person who has brought up anything about the forks.
As far as flex in the forks in general, yeah, I noticed some disc rubbing when I put down power out of the saddle, but nothing too terrible.
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A friend of mine who drives the same frame noticed a huge improvement of stability after changing the stem/bar-combo.
What can I do to change my system? TanTan has the hb010 (or something like that), but after all the disappointing support mails I don't wanne spend more money to this brand - is there any other chance to get something work?
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A friend of mine who drives the same frame noticed a huge improvement of stability after changing the stem/bar-combo.
What can I do to change my system? TanTan has the hb010 (or something like that), but after all the disappointing support mails I don't wanne spend more money to this brand - is there any other chance to get something work?
Tan Tan uses a pretty generic Chinese top cover and spacers for their handlebars. You can replace everything from the top cover up and go with a ride range of options that include separate stem/handlebar combos. If you want to go with a pricey mainstream option, the FSA ACR system will fit. I kept the Tan Tan top cover and spacers, replaced everything else in the headset with FSA ACR, then picked up a set of Og Evkin bars.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334115428750?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4dcad4d98e:g:kc8AAOSwA5JhGjGA&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4BX3RHiBvFRGqGzniKAxrooapQdykKwxb17DrX8EI18bFF4sE5QJo3HVyUb2wQ3i3A0Owj1pbht0CVtyGAKOChNMQ%2FphItDf6J%2FQuDWeBWUJVLHPgJdRKowHEjElKgCTM01yU66ihi1izU1KpeSXZOAkSt6vLLRVcaquVVnwznnwgd6etHO5FjNOvsVnUrIfa4%2BAMRcTNwNsgA9vP4Q9ngMaqkuu6Q0yUWIV6UBYNMVC%2FTvGcgci0mgjEfbCD2RnG22z6ih12mvwKcGK3mHoHCrwn%2BUCBRqBHpdhqjTo9ngN%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsqDOnfhf
I had to drill a couple of tiny holes where the spacers meet the stem, but other than that, it was straight swap.
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Oh, that sounds good and that was one of my upcoming questions - the tiny holes I would need.
I think I will look for the acr system. Is it possible to use a „normal“ stem with a adapter? —> or is something like this possible?
https://www.velonews.com/gear/road-gear/specialized-s-works-tarmac-sl7-review/
—> The SL7 stem/bar is not cheap / I really like the Unit, but I wonder how to „connect“ the ACR headset-cap with the Tarmac spacer. Should the designing via 3D-Printer be hard enough for a Spacer? I am not familiar with this.
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Hello everyone,
I just ordered the x-21 frame. Getting all the stuff together for the build right now. In case of the saddle I am a bit unsure. Does the seat post provide a round or oval clamp?
Thanks for your help!
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I have a tt-x21 and was running a carbon oval saddle rail but not any more (for saddle fit reasons). Does a seatpost clamp have to be different for oval and round rails? I have another bike where it is definitely a different fitting but I that is a bit unique to the bike. You coudl always ask tantan by email or chat.
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Hello fellow TT-X21ers!
I am waiting for my frame to arrive but one thing that bothers quite a lot, besides the headset potential problem or slipping seatpost, is the huge offset from the seatpost.
I heard the TT-X21 is exactly the same has the VB-R-099 and that there is a Zero offset seatpost sold by Velobuild. Does anyone already tried the zero offset VB seatpost on the X21?
Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
I'm refreshing this topic to show you my future bike!
This is my first experience with TanTan and I'm very satisfied with the service so far. I had very specific requirements for this turnkey bike, and Rose from TanTan was very helpful. Here are the photos I received today.
Description :
TT-X21 custom paint Size 56
50mm carbon rims with Continental GP500
Shimano 105 Di2
They should ship it this week, I can't wait to receive it.
I will update as soon.
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Hello everyone,
I just ordered the x-21 frame. Getting all the stuff together for the build right now. In case of the saddle I am a bit unsure. Does the seat post provide a round or oval clamp?
Thanks for your help!
How did it work for you? Any pictureds of the complete bike? How did the build go?
My son has grown. He currently has a size 52 and I am thinking of purchasing him a 56. My customer service experience with tantan has not been good with small parts missing from shipments and then them insisting that I made a mistake, extra handlebars I purchase missing etc.
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Hi everyone,
I'm refreshing this topic to show you my future bike!
This is my first experience with TanTan and I'm very satisfied with the service so far. I had very specific requirements for this turnkey bike, and Rose from TanTan was very helpful. Here are the photos I received today.
Description :
TT-X21 custom paint Size 56
50mm carbon rims with Continental GP500
Shimano 105 Di2
They should ship it this week, I can't wait to receive it.
I will update as soon.
Very nice! I think it's the first bike I see that's built by the factory themselves. The paint job and frame look a lot like factor, was it on purpose or is it in my head?
I wouldn't have gone with "seraph" though, unless they gave me the frame :p
How much was the whole thing including shipping? I'm OCD and would want to choose every component, but it's great to have the option to have a one stop shop and receive a full bike.
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Very nice! I think it's the first bike I see that's built by the factory themselves. The paint job and frame look a lot like factor, was it on purpose or is it in my head?
I wouldn't have gone with "seraph" though, unless they gave me the frame :p
How much was the whole thing including shipping? I'm OCD and would want to choose every component, but it's great to have the option to have a one stop shop and receive a full bike.
Thank you ! Indeed I didn’t feel myself building a bike from scratch, I don’t have the tool and the patience. Also yes I was very inspired by the Factor Ostro Vam but I didn’t want to have a fake one so I decided to go full Seraph.
The whole price including shipping was USD 2650. They send 2 box (1 for the fram assembled, one for the wheels).
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I am thinking of putting di2 on a tt=x21. Can someone share how they connected the battery into the seat post on their bike?
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Mine! 8)
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Mine! 8)
Beautiful !
Are you satisfied with the bike so far ? :)
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Mine! 8)
@max_the_rider Did you buy this as a complete bike, painted by TanTan? What groupset is on it and can you share how much this cost? Thx much
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Hi everyone,
I'm refreshing this topic to show you my future bike!
This is my first experience with TanTan and I'm very satisfied with the service so far. I had very specific requirements for this turnkey bike, and Rose from TanTan was very helpful. Here are the photos I received today.
Description :
TT-X21 custom paint Size 56
50mm carbon rims with Continental GP500
Shimano 105 Di2
They should ship it this week, I can't wait to receive it.
I will update as soon.
When it arrives can you share where the battery is placed? Is it inside the seat post like most bikes or in the down tube. I am thinking of going Di2 on a x21. If it is place in the seat post is there a custom braket to make it stay there? If it is in the down tube what stops it rattling around? Thanks much.
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@max_the_rider Did you buy this as a complete bike, painted by TanTan? What groupset is on it and can you share how much this cost? Thx much
I bought this frame back in 2020 with this custom design, and only the frame from Tantan. I built the bike by myself.
About the groupset, it's a full mechanical Ultegra R8000... A real pain in the a** with the handlebar but it works flawlessly!
Frame 599$, custom design 70$, thru axle 24$ and shipping fees (to Switzerland) 85$
The current configuration is:
TT-X21 size 52
Full mech Ultegra R8000
Magene P505 powermeter with 52/36 Spécialités TA chainrings
Prime Primavera 56 wheels
Conti GP5000S TR
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I bought this frame back in 2020 with this custom design, and only the frame from Tantan. I built the bike by myself.
About the groupset, it's a full mechanical Ultegra R8000... A real pain in the a** with the handlebar but it works flawlessly!
Frame 599$, custom design 70$, thru axle 24$ and shipping fees (to Switzerland) 85$
The current configuration is:
TT-X21 size 52
Full mech Ultegra R8000
Magene P505 powermeter with 52/36 Spécialités TA chainrings
Prime Primavera 56 wheels
Conti GP5000S TR
Same size as the one I built for my son but 105/ultegra groupset mix with 160mm cranks, aliexpress saddle, look pedals, 4i crank based power meter, Farsports wheels set up tubeless, vittoria tyres.