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73.5g for the levers means I can take my zrace x2's down to 357g and make em look much nicer
I cut my chain too short, then when a friend was helping me install the derailleur we couldn't get the B-screw adjustment right, and instead of realizing that the chain was too short causing the problem we assumed it was still too long and cut out another couple of links. Yes, we're amateurs.
How can I avoid doing that again? I followed a Park Tool video on how to size the chain, but maybe this frame needs a little different approach to find the right chain length. I have the large size of this frame and I'm using a 30T chainring with a 10-51 cassette (Shimano XT 12-speed drivetrain) -- how many links do I need to remove from a fresh 126-link chain?
Another chain-related question -- when the chain is on the largest cog the chain line looks to be at its limit, too far really. I might need to use a spacer between my hub and my cassette to bring it out. Did anyone else need to do this to get a reasonably straight chain line toward the larger cogs (inner cogs) of the cassette? I'm using a new DT Swiss 240S hub with Shimano XT cassette.
BTW the derailleur hanger shipped with my frame was wonky and needed to be bent quite a bit. So if you're like me and can't get your derailleur to work as expected then try checking that. Am I likely to get a better result right out of the box with an official SRAM UDH (vs the Airwolf part), or is this maybe because the frame is not square at the dropout and I'll need to do this again if I ever get a new derailleur hanger?
So...
I've had a good look over them and can confirm some spec and impressions:
Caliper Pistons: 16mm/14mm pairs (I'd hoped they were 17/15)
Lever: 10mm piston, pivots 12mm apart, with lever grip 40-75mm from the master pivot and a nice curl at the tip.
Lever clamp: Compatible with Sram matchmaker clamp. (using sram clamp and bolt)
Finishing: Pretty good, anodising is a little fragile and can see where it's knocked about in the box a bit on a few of the sharper edges.
Initial impressions: Very good
1 lever came with one of the lever bolts half way undone, so had to tighten that up.
Took the chance to strip down the lever pivot assembly and get a good look at it. No loctite on any bolts, so will add some.
Can't comment on lever feel under hard pulls yet as not had it on a bar n disc yet, but initial impressions are good.
There is a slight forward back play from the tolerances of the threaded pivot section on the reach adjustment pin, but this could be due to the bearings.
Will look to get some 2rs bearings installed instead of the zz metal shielded ones.
Pistons look to be stainless, and fully hollow under the pad.
Need to reset the pistons back and check how freely they each move as they were uneven when received (had pads and spacer fitted)
I think the hoses aren't done up tight enough from factory, as I could twist the lever and holding the hose it would rotate in the lever.
Will take the lever off and review the barb/olive situation soon anyway as need to internally route the rear one.
pics: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/scar4me/album/Stuff/
Will update again when i've had a chance to fit, bed in ad actually get some usage.
Yes I noticed that but I think it’s simply shock or no shock. I sent a WhatsApp to a number they provided when I ask questions on Ali, I’ll proceed with caution
