Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Cth on November 18, 2021, 03:58:25 PM
-
Does anybody have the Velobuild GF-002 and can comment on build quality, tire clearance, and actual frame weight?
http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2021-velobuild-carbon-fiber-integrated-gravel-bike-frame-hidden-cables
…The same frame (open mold) is sold elsewhere as an Airwolf or Yao Flying YFR045, although different weights and tire clearances are claimed.
Interestingly, although it’s obviously a totally different frame, the geometry appears to be identical to the Carbonda CFR-696!
-
Ok, as nobody seems to have this frame (or is willing to admit it ;)), I will ask a few new questions: Does anybody have any opinions about this frame or know who the actual manufacturer is? I assume Velobuild is just a distributor.
Cheers,
(http://)
-
I'd be inclined to skip the internal cable routing and go with the proven CFR696. It might be a bit more expensive, but they have a good reputation and there are lots of people who've built them.
-
For what it's worth, I've been really happy with the second hand GF-001 frame I bought locally and built up. Been thinking of upgrading to the GF-002 as well, not out of need but out of want ;D
-
Hello,
I recently bought the same frame but made by Lightcarbon, not sure what is the difference in between them, but mine looks very well done,the only difference is that lightcarbon sells the bike with or without the integrated handlebar and I bought without it but with a very nice stem and spacers that hide the cables.
Unfortunately I still can't finish to build because of I'm not having too much time after my son was born, but I have to let yoy know that I'm struggling a lot with the routing of the outer cables in the area of the headset because of the small gap availale in between my stem and the spacers.
I guess the bike is designed to work with hydraulic brakes and Di2 or AXS groupsets and once I already routed all the outer cables the cables doesn't move completely free.
At the moment I removed some material of the spacers and I will give it a go as soon as I can.
If you want me to show some pictures showing wat I had to do I could attach them here but first I wanted to make sure that the mod works, otherwise I think I will have to change to a standard stem and handlebar.
-
Hi All,
I finally finished the build of the my bike.
I'm not totally happy with the feeling of the cable actuated hydraulics brakes because I had to swap the outer cables from the jagwire compression less for a cheap Clarks that were quite more flexible and allow me to fit them through the headset without kinking.
I will give a bit if time testing the bike and if the biting don't improve I will take it to the bike shop to have some advice.
A part from that during the short ride that I did to try all was working fine the bike rides very comfortable.
-
Just came across this YouTube video for their headset installation for VB-R-099& VB-R-168& GF-002, could be some use as details aren't the best on the net
Could be of some help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eN2-0BmXYUU
-
This color is superb, did you perform the paint on your own or did you ask LightCarbon to perform the painting?
Could you please give me the paint color code for this awesome blue color?
-
Hi All,
I finally finished the build of the my bike.
I'm not totally happy with the feeling of the cable actuated hydraulics brakes because I had to swap the outer cables from the jagwire compression less for a cheap Clarks that were quite more flexible and allow me to fit them through the headset without kinking.
I will give a bit if time testing the bike and if the biting don't improve I will take it to the bike shop to have some advice.
A part from that during the short ride that I did to try all was working fine the bike rides very comfortable.
Hello there, I can fully understand your point.
Using the compressionless Jagwire cable makes a huge difference.
Last year I built a bike for my GF and was not aware of this fact and used cheap outer cables with the steel coil.
Result was an unsatisfying feeling when breaking that needed way too much force. Additionally the ZTTO brake callipers where not working well.
As a result she got an upgrade to Shimano full Hydraulic.
For my new build I went with Jagwire compressionless and made sure there were no tight curves in the routing, which may be challenging for all internal cabling trough the hanbdlebars...
In my case the routing through the Ti frame allowed for smooth bends and the resulting break feeling is very good and quite close to hydraulic disc.
How good the break power is, needs to be confirmed during longer rides.
(https://i.ibb.co/fFWp3Tj/Break-Juintech.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NCqj0Gc)
But don't write off the cable actuated brakes without trying compressionless...
BR Chris
-
This color is superb, did you perform the paint on your own or did you ask LightCarbon to perform the painting?
Could you please give me the paint color code for this awesome blue color?
Hi cyril_31,
My frame was painted by some colleagues in the painshop of my work. I honestly don't know the exact colour they used, they gave me a lot of samples and I choose the one I liked the most.
As a reference I took the blue that pinarello uses on the TT bike of Filipo Ganna, but I think my one is not so dark.
-
Frameset should be arriving Monday!
I’ll make sure to take some photos for all who are interested.
The build is setup around Sram axs xplr 1x etap setup.
-
Was inline for same frame as well until Planet X , knocked £500 off their freerangers frames, so gone with one of those (Carbonda 696) for less than £400 :)
-
Frame came in yesterday. Starting the build today, everything so far looks really good. No pain build up on connection points and an etap setup should be relatively smooth.
-
Finished the build.
Sram etap 1x setup 42t by 10-44t.
Cable routing was straightforward, went with the integrated stem and it was a breeze.
Really happy with the paint and finish work. Frame quality beat expectation.
-
Looks great!
-
Looks awesome! Nice choice of tape color
-
Anyone else with a GF-002 that wants to share their build for some added inspiration or feedback?
-
Finished the build.
Sram etap 1x setup 42t by 10-44t.
Cable routing was straightforward, went with the integrated stem and it was a breeze.
Really happy with the paint and finish work. Frame quality beat expectation.
Nice build. Please keep us updated with your ride experience of this bike.
-
Finished the build.
Sram etap 1x setup 42t by 10-44t.
Cable routing was straightforward, went with the integrated stem and it was a breeze.
Really happy with the paint and finish work. Frame quality beat expectation.
Hi PeteyPablo
Sorry to jump on your thread, newbie here :)
Ive had my GF-002 now for some 9 months but ive got terrible play in the headset. Did you have any issues with yours? Mine seems to be out by a couple of mm's
Your help would be most appreciated :)
-
Hi PeteyPablo
Sorry to jump on your thread, newbie here :)
Ive had my GF-002 now for some 9 months but ive got terrible play in the headset. Did you have any issues with yours? Mine seems to be out by a couple of mm's
Your help would be most appreciated :)
There’s a section in the road bike forum around this issue. I’ve been lucky and haven’t had this issue yet, but I’d check out the thread “ VeloBuild Headset Play Issue Using Separate Stem/Handlebar: Resolved” and try this. It sounds like getting a c clip without the raised nipples fixed it for some while others have just filed the nipples down on their c clip. Hope that helps
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3683.0.html
-
Just finished up building my new GF-002 frame. Almost all parts except for the bars/stem were transferred over from my GF-001.
Aside from a few stumbling blocks that were on me, the build was smooth. Frame and separate bar/stem combo from VB have been great and I'm happy with everything so far.
Learnings:
1. No cabling exposed with separate VB bar/stem: This bar/stem combo has fully integrated cabling with no exposed cabling at all (unless you don't want internal cabling and route on the outside of the bars). Unlike the integrated bars where the cables/wires poke out under the stem before going down the fork. This is only an issue if you're running an external Di2 junction box like I am as you normally place it under the stem where you have access to the wires being exposed, can connect the junction box and then the wires go down the fork. This is how I have my VB-R-168 set up.
Considered getting an internal junction box to mount to the opening in the top of the downtube, however I wasn't able to source one easily (aka I was too cheap and didn't find a deal I liked, plus needed another junction and extra wire). Someone suggested I just drill a hole in the stem and that's what I did! Solution worked perfectly and I don't have any concerns with the integrity of the stem provided how small the hole is and how thick the carbon in that area is. Photo below.
2. Smallest chainring for the GF-002 is 46T: I tried mounting my regular compact Shimano 2x crankset 50/34 and the small chainring was pressed hard against the chainstay with no room to move. Not sure if my choice of BB made a difference but I have a Wheels Manufacturing BB386EVO. I ended up getting some 24mm spacers for the crankset shaft to push out the crank and 3mm worth of spacers did the trick. Found out after from VB about the 46T chainring minimum.
A few things I appreciate having that my GF-001 didn't are:
- Fender eyelets in the fork
- Additional bottle/bag mounts on the side of the fork and under the downtube
- Round seatpost
Really happy with how the paint job turned out. I wasn't sure about their ability to blend the two colors but they did a good job with the transition. Decals were made locally and splatter is just some left over plasti-dip splattered by moi.
The newly revised slightly taller C ring for the headset seems to be making a difference to prevent the play issue some were experiencing with the separate bar/stem option. Overall happy with how it turned out.
-
Looking gooooooood!
-
Hi y'all,
I was wondering whether there are already some reports on the robustness or longevity of the GF 002 frame?
Currently I am undecided whether to go with the "classic" carbonda 696 or the somewhat more modern GF 002.
looking at the connection of seat stays to seat tube on the 002, it looks kind of flimsy. Any opintions on how this might hold up?
Cheers!
-
The carbonda quality is no doubt better than velobuild kd.
-
The carbonda quality is no doubt better than velobuild kd.
Why is there no doubt about this?
-
Velobuild QC is lackluster to say the least.
-
Just finished up building my new GF-002 frame. Almost all parts except for the bars/stem were transferred over from my GF-001.
2. Smallest chainring for the GF-002 is 46T: I tried mounting my regular compact Shimano 2x crankset 50/34 and the small chainring was pressed hard against the chainstay with no room to move. Not sure if my choice of BB made a difference but I have a Wheels Manufacturing BB386EVO. I ended up getting some 24mm spacers for the crankset shaft to push out the crank and 3mm worth of spacers did the trick. Found out after from VB about the 46T chainring minimum.
Fantastic looking bike! I just have a question regarding the quote above. What BB are you running?
What perplexes me is that 34t ring rubs against the frame but 46t does not. Shouldn't a smaller ring have more clearance than a larger one when it is closest to BB/chainstays?
-
Fantastic looking bike! I just have a question regarding the quote above. What BB are you running?
What perplexes me is that 34t ring rubs against the frame but 46t does not. Shouldn't a smaller ring have more clearance than a larger one when it is closest to BB/chainstays?
Thanks! I'm using a Wheels Manufacturing internally threaded pressfit BB. Haven't thought much about the logic of the statement above in truth, just passed on what VB mentioned. May switch out the BB instead of replacing the bearings and can report back if it makes a difference.
-
Thanks! I'm using a Wheels Manufacturing internally threaded pressfit BB.
I am contemplating the BB choice. Pressfit BB is what is stopping me from pulling the trigger on this v/s Carbonda 707 which comes with threaded, old school BB. I didn't see anyone mention VB's tolerances being sloppy (or perfect for that matter) but overall sentiment my own experience with PF BB is somewhat off putting.
To further make matters worse, I like GF-002's geometry over 707. I guess you can't have everything.
-
Just finished up building my new GF-002 frame.
Those are my colors... I love it.
-
To further make matters worse, I like GF-002's geometry over 707. I guess you can't have everything.
Just an update to this. Placed an order for GF-002. I liked the fact that you can have separate bar/stem and still hide cables neatly (or nearly). Besides the geometry of GF-002 is more my cup of tea.
Now the wait begins!
-
The GF-003 is out, it seems!
-
The GF-003 is out, it seems!
Yes! I have been frame shopping and modelled up a quick comparison between the 3 I'm looking at. The GF-003 seems more mountain-bike-like with a shorter chain stay, higher stack, and a slacker front/HA. It also has a threaded BB, which is nice.
Their IG post today: https://www.instagram.com/p/CkbuzBByXTl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
(PS: first time poster, long time lurker)
-
Yes! I have been frame shopping and modeled up a quick comparison between the 3 I'm looking at...
Nice ! What software did you use to draw them ?
-
Yes! I have been frame shopping and modelled up a quick comparison between the 3 I'm looking at. The GF-003 seems more mountain-bike-like with a shorter chain stay, higher stack, and a slacker front/HA. It also has a threaded BB, which is nice.
Their IG post today: https://www.instagram.com/p/CkbuzBByXTl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
(PS: first time poster, long time lurker)
That is super helpful! From your drawing, the difference in stack appears very small, but it's actually an 18mm difference (608vs590). But on the wheelbase (what VB calls "G") difference is 611vs626, 15mm, but on your drawing it looks bigger? Are you sure your drawing is accurate, are my eyes lying to me?
-
Does anyone have a good ride review to share on the GF-002? I have been reading some feedback on YouTube on VB's road bikes that they feel "sluggish" and am wondering if they are similar.
Nice ! What software did you use to draw them ?
NX, with the sketch tool
That is super helpful! From your drawing, the difference in stack appears very small, but it's actually an 18mm difference (608vs590). But on the wheelbase (what VB calls "G") difference is 611vs626, 15mm, but on your drawing it looks bigger? Are you sure your drawing is accurate, are my eyes lying to me?
Yes, they're correct to the website. G is the Front-Center, or BB to front axle. They may be lol; the frames are aligned to the BB, so it shows off their differences more. It'd be easier to see the WB if I aligned them from the rear axle.
It's hard to see, but the 003's rear axle is similar to the Carbonda. I also mis-stated the head angle: it's actually 0.5 steeper than the 002... but that's negligible really.
(effective) Wheelbase measurements for size Large (within 1-2mm):
002: 1037.12mm
003: 1044.39mm
707: 1053.42mm
-
On GF002's fork, what is this crown (first pic below) supposed to do and can I make do without it? I'm seeing that it doesn't actually sit flush with the fork base whereas the bearing is a perfect fit. Can't I just omit this crown and insert fork into head tube?
-
Does anyone have a good ride review to share on the GF-002? I have been reading some feedback on YouTube on VB's road bikes that they feel "sluggish" and am wondering if they are similar.
https://youtu.be/MpKUolynsCk
That guy sounds super happy, and his brother has a 168 who's also super happy.
And the owner of the DNR SHREDD paint job on this forum, i think, is also v happy with his.
I've never ridden a gravel bike and i m absolutely useless on a MTB, but I suspect that with the volume of air in the tyres, stiffness differences and the likes must be pretty hard to discern? So it's probably down to components, geometry and sizing quite a bit. Geometry must matter a great deal because a slack touring gravel is going to ride v different from an aggressive CX bike (I can imagine long moments of solitude going down rocky trails on a CX frame).
-
And the owner of the DNR SHREDD paint job on this forum, i think, is also v happy with his.
Yes I can confirm, still very happy with the GF-002. It's a bit more relaxed than my GF-001, but for gravel that's not a bad thing. I just mounted fenders for the first time on this frame as it's that time of year here, and having the additional fork eyelets is really nice as I had a bit of a hack job on the GF-001. Definitely intrigued by the GF-003 and CX-002 as well, although the lack of fender mounts on the CX-002 may be a dealbreaker for me.
-
Yes I can confirm, still very happy with the GF-002. It's a bit more relaxed than my GF-001, but for gravel that's not a bad thing. I just mounted fenders for the first time on this frame as it's that time of year here, and having the additional fork eyelets is really nice as I had a bit of a hack job on the GF-001. Definitely intrigued by the GF-003 and CX-002 as well, although the lack of fender mounts on the CX-002 may be a dealbreaker for me.
What's your take on the geometry difference / best use cases for the GF002 vs GF003?
I see you also have a 168. Given the 2x you have on the gravel, how do you think the bike would feel as a substitude for a road bike if you put road wheels on it? I'm thinking of buying a GF2 or 3 instead of a 177, but most of my riding is still going to be on the road so i'd like something capable.
What wheelset are you running? It looks quite deep, and pretty awesome. Most gravel wheelsets are pretty shallow.
-
What's your take on the geometry difference / best use cases for the GF002 vs GF003?
I see you also have a 168. Given the 2x you have on the gravel, how do you think the bike would feel as a substitude for a road bike if you put road wheels on it? I'm thinking of buying a GF2 or 3 instead of a 177, but most of my riding is still going to be on the road so i'd like something capable.
What wheelset are you running? It looks quite deep, and pretty awesome. Most gravel wheelsets are pretty shallow.
Here's a breakdown of all three VB gravel frames from my pov.
I would say the GF-001 is for someone that wants to go faster either on gravel or on slicks for commuting. I've run 28's on it and it felt pretty zippy. I've also seen someone with a really nice light build they used for competitive CX racing: shorturl.at/glY59
The GF-002 would probably be better for more chunky gravel and technical stuff if you're into single track. It has way more mounts (under the down tube, fork, front and rear fender eyelets) so great for bike packing/touring. It also uses a standard 27.2 seatpost which is important for some.
As to geometry differences between the GF-002 and GF-003 (because it has a lot of the features the GF-003 has), here is a comparison tool I loaded with the dimensions for a medium listed on VB's site: shorturl.at/jlxNZ Use the Swap Bikes button to go between the two.
Wheels on my GF-002 are 40mm CSC tubeless. Not too many gravel builds with deeper wheels, but it's fun haha
-
True. ICAN has a specific model in their Aero line-up that's wide and deep (45mm I think) for gravel. All other Aeros are thin, for road.
-
BB and crankset installation day and a bit confused what is the ideal way. Those who have front derailleur installed, how have you routed the cable - under the BB or over the BB (pic 1 vs 2)?
Also, these two grommets/narrow mouthed hoses in third picture that came with the frame (noticing just now) where they are supposed to go? The longer one looks like cable stop but not sure.
-
Confirmed that the two small parts are cable stops/guides for front derailleur. But I wasn't able to utilize them and received this answer "You can use either one" from Chris for my detailed questions and back and forth over the email. None of those nozzles fit tightly into the hole for cable.
Decided not to use those and hack something else to fit. From the local hardware store I bought 3 parts.
1. A rubber grommet.
2. A small flanged spacer
3. A slightly bigger flanged spacer than above.
The spacers are sized such that the smaller one inserts into bigger one and since both of them are flanged, my idea was to sandwich frame material between the two.
It worked perfectly.
Basically the larger spacer went into the hole from inside the frame with little circus and then I inserted the smaller one along with the rubber grommer into the bigger one which was now sticking out from the frame.
This created a nice tight guide for the cable and also closed any gap around the spacers.
-
Nice work on finding a solution! Part of the process...
-
Definitely. And frankly I am okay with it. The build is coming off nicely, just waiting for brakes and other misc bits and pieces. Wish I had planned for parts in a better manner.
Weather in Seattle is incredible for despite being mid November and I’m missing out on outdoor rides. Oh well.
Also an update on C ring and dust cap fitting about 1.7mm above the top of head tube - from a machinist friend I got my dust cap/base sanded off by a 0.6-0.7mm on the inside (outer part is untouched but the part that rests on C ring is now deeper by 0.7mm) this has solved the problem of unnecessarily large gap.
The dust cap now sits just about 1mm above head tube. There is no headset play after tightening the top cap.
Anyone having same issue - this something that I won’t recommend doing at home with Dremel (like I originally thought and quickly abandoned ship).
Edit: update on cable routing too - the whole BB shell area is massive on GF002 frame with relaxed angles. The cable for FD can be routed ABOVE the bottom bracket without crazy angles. In fact I tried both options (above and below BB) and routing above BB is less angular than from below.
-
Are there any torque specifications for all the screws on this frame? Or should I just refer to my other bikes? My Roubaix has torque specs everywhere.
-
My GF-002 build is complete.
Some observations:
1. The painting of the frame took 2 weeks like Chris said. After it was painted, though, the shipping was fast. From China to my doorstep in Seattle it took exact 5 days.
2. Paint quality itself is satisfactory. The paint matches 90-95% with what I had in mind and has no obvious flaws that I could notice. All the screw/bolt holes were devoid of any paint and didn't have to clean anything.
3. Bottom bracket was not included in the box. Chris sent it after about a week. I decided not to use it anyway and got Token Ninja thread together model off of Amazon for $50.
4. I went with separate stem and handlebar combo thinking that it would be easier to route cables - big mistake. The internal cable routing was a nightmare. It was my first bike build so experience was lacking too but in the hindsight I should have just bought integrated handlebar. I am sure it couldn't be any more difficult than what I went through. On top, the frame came without any cable guides. Anyway, lesson learnt.
Also the compression-less SRAM brake cables caused more friction once I routed the cables than the cheapo cables that I got from LBS in the end. After multiple attempts at making SRAM cables work I gave up. So much time wasted and no returns, not to mention extremely hard to route. All the cables currently are moving freely without much friction and I am happy.
5. Apart from missing BB, rest of my order was complete with nothing missing. I got extra headset spacers, RD hangar, bottle cages.
6. The headset dust cap needed to be filed a little on the inside (previous few comments in this thread, for more detail) before it fit flush.
7. For my 183cm height, the seat tube is almost too tall. I have set it to lowest marking (10) and it is still a tad bit tall. My frame is size L.
8. The rear triangle of the frame does not accommodate post mount TRP HY/RD brakes with flat mount adapters. I learnt that the hard way. I don't think it is a problem on VB' side though. The TRPs are massive. They came off of my donor bike and I was disappointed that they did not fit. This caused me to order Onirii BR-05 set that took almost 20 days to deliver! Word of caution, if you are planning on using PM brakes with FM adapter, those either might not fit or will be too close to upper arm of the triangle for comfort.
9. The FD cable routing is confusing and the parts supplied by VB aren't a good fit. I used rubber grommets from a local h/w store to route FD cable to my liking.
10. No torque markings on any screws. I referred to my other CF bike for all the screws and used a torque wrench bought from Amazon.
11. Didn't want to risk anything and used carbon paste on seat post, handlebar/stem.
12. Token Ninja BB is a god sent gift. The fit is excellent and installation was a breeze.
Took almost a month but that's a blame on my part for not ordering right parts from get go, with those damn brakes taking frustratingly long time. Unlike most builds here, it is a mechanical build with parts that came off of a donor bike. Parts that did not come from donor were bought from Craigslist, OfferUp etc while brakes, misc. bits and pieces came from AliExpress.
And now the pictures from maiden ride today. It rides amazingly well. For my novice hands, the way it came together in the end, makes me proud.
-
Nice one! What frame size is this one?
My GF-002 build is complete.
Some observations:
1. The painting of the frame took 2 weeks like Chris said. After it was painted, though, the shipping was fast. From China to my doorstep in Seattle it took exact 5 days.
2. Paint quality itself is satisfactory. The paint matches 90-95% with what I had in mind and has no obvious flaws that I could notice. All the screw/bolt holes were devoid of any paint and didn't have to clean anything.
3. Bottom bracket was not included in the box. Chris sent it after about a week. I decided not to use it anyway and got Token Ninja thread together model off of Amazon for $50.
4. I went with separate stem and handlebar combo thinking that it would be easier to route cables - big mistake. The internal cable routing was a nightmare. It was my first bike build so experience was lacking too but in the hindsight I should have just bought integrated handlebar. I am sure it couldn't be any more difficult than what I went through. On top, the frame came without any cable guides. Anyway, lesson learnt.
Also the compression-less SRAM brake cables caused more friction once I routed the cables than the cheapo cables that I got from LBS in the end. After multiple attempts at making SRAM cables work I gave up. So much time wasted and no returns, not to mention extremely hard to route. All the cables currently are moving freely without much friction and I am happy.
5. Apart from missing BB, rest of my order was complete with nothing missing. I got extra headset spacers, RD hangar, bottle cages.
6. The headset dust cap needed to be filed a little on the inside (previous few comments in this thread, for more detail) before it fit flush.
7. For my 183cm height, the seat tube is almost too tall. I have set it to lowest marking (10) and it is still a tad bit tall. My frame is size L.
8. The rear triangle of the frame does not accommodate post mount TRP HY/RD brakes with flat mount adapters. I learnt that the hard way. I don't think it is a problem on VB' side though. The TRPs are massive. They came off of my donor bike and I was disappointed that they did not fit. This caused me to order Onirii BR-05 set that took almost 20 days to deliver! Word of caution, if you are planning on using PM brakes with FM adapter, those either might not fit or will be too close to upper arm of the triangle for comfort.
9. The FD cable routing is confusing and the parts supplied by VB aren't a good fit. I used rubber grommets from a local h/w store to route FD cable to my liking.
10. No torque markings on any screws. I referred to my other CF bike for all the screws and used a torque wrench bought from Amazon.
11. Didn't want to risk anything and used carbon paste on seat post, handlebar/stem.
12. Token Ninja BB is a god sent gift. The fit is excellent and installation was a breeze.
Took almost a month but that's a blame on my part for not ordering right parts from get go, with those damn brakes taking frustratingly long time. Unlike most builds here, it is a mechanical build with parts that came off of a donor bike. Parts that did not come from donor were bought from Craigslist, OfferUp etc while brakes, misc. bits and pieces came from AliExpress.
And now the pictures from maiden ride today. It rides amazingly well. For my novice hands, the way it came together in the end, makes me proud.
-
Nice one! What frame size is this one?
I got size 56. Didn't measure if it's actually 56 though :D in place of sizing sticker I have an evil cat.
-
My build is finally complete.
Might be of interest to some as it's a full Aliexpress/China build: GF-002, Elite wheels, Sensah SRX groupset, Juin Tech F1 brakes.
I’ve been interested in building up an open mould frame for a while, so with the price of new bikes and the second hand market getting a bit crazy (at least when I started ordering) this seemed like a good time to try.
Positives:
- Production & shipping was way faster than I expected, I think just over 2 weeks from payment including custom paint job. I could have built the bike much sooner had my separate BB not got lost in customs.
- The frame feels great, seems to ride like any premium carbon gravel frame, and the custom paint looks rad.
- The overall finishing seems good, with no paint in threads, bearing races pretty clean etc.
- I couldn’t see any obvious voids or terrible wrinkles in the carbon - but will report back if it snaps in half jumping off a curb.
- I’m quite impressed but he SRX groupset, shifting is crisp and levers feel decent.
- Elite wheels seem fantastic on the short rides I’ve done so far. Tubeless ready tyres popped right on with a track pump.
- The Juin Tech brakes, now set up and bedded in are solid. Not quite hydro feeling, but much much better than BB7s I've previously used. They could probably be made better if my cabling wasn't such a mess too, or just external routing.
Negatives
- Threading compressionless housing through the bars+ stem + frame is ridiculously difficult. Compressionless housing is too stiff to get round the corners and it gets wedged in hidden corners of the bars. I’d estimate I’ve spent over 8 hours trying to get it set up right here, although that’s largely because I screwed up the first run. I’m also running 1x here, doing a mechanical 2x setup + compressionless housing would be extremely difficult.
- Seat clamp: the front bolt can’t be accessed with an Allen key unless you have a cut-out saddle, so fine-tuning the angle is a bit of a pain
- The bottom bracket pressed in worryingly easy. I could tighten the press-fit tool by hand, without a wrench. It’s not creaking yet, but I’m expecting that I might have to add Loctite retainer in the future. This is a Rotor BB not a VB one.
- Minor gripes: Wasn’t supplied enough bolts for all the bosses, the seat post doesn't slide that far down so I had to cut a lot off it to get it to the right height, where the cables exit the frame and attach to the brakes/derailleur causes quite sharp angles.
The headset
- I got the separate bar and stem as I wanted the option to swap out the bars to attach aerobars for really long distance rides. I also wasn’t 100% on the geometry, I just matched it to my road bike. In retrospect with the integrated cables swapping the bars out is something I’m going to try and avoid.
- I got the updated headset that Chris has mentioned in previous threads, this seems to resolve the issues others were having of not being able to preload the bearing. However, it definitely has not been perfect. I’ve battled it slipping and coming loose, not being able to preload sufficiently for several days now.
- Possibly the issue lies in the way is presses the C clip/dustcover into the bearing, it looks uneven and I’m assuming this then causes it to slip slightly under hard braking. If I’m careful with aligning the C pointed exactly straight ahead, arrange the cables to sit evenly spaced, and add a little carbon paste on the stem it seems to work.
- I’ve also got a 1-2mm gap like coffeebreak mentioned above. I think I’ll just cover it with silicon as removing the dust cover is an ordeal.
I think long-term the solution is probably still to go with the FSA headset.
Overall, very happy with it so far - but haven't put enough miles on it to give it a proper review.
Total cost about $2.7k AUD/$1.8kUSD.
-
Negatives
- Threading compressionless housing through the bars+ stem + frame is ridiculously difficult. Compressionless housing is too stiff to get round the corners and it gets wedged in hidden corners of the bars. I’d estimate I’ve spent over 8 hours trying to get it set up right here, although that’s largely because I screwed up the first run. I’m also running 1x here, doing a mechanical 2x setup + compressionless housing would be extremely difficult.
- Seat clamp: the front bolt can’t be accessed with an Allen key unless you have a cut-out saddle, so fine-tuning the angle is a bit of a pain
- The bottom bracket pressed in worryingly easy. I could tighten the press-fit tool by hand, without a wrench. It’s not creaking yet, but I’m expecting that I might have to add Loctite retainer in the future. This is a Rotor BB not a VB one.
- Minor gripes: Wasn’t supplied enough bolts for all the bosses, the seat post doesn't slide that far down so I had to cut a lot off it to get it to the right height, where the cables exit the frame and attach to the brakes/derailleur causes quite sharp angles.
I'm relieved I'm not the only one who had these problems. Just 8 hours for routing though? I spent probably 4 days lol. I probably routed and pulled out cables and routed again about 20 times and in the end couldn't get compressionless housing work. It was frustrating to say the least. I also filed all the edges of the stem and handlebar where ever the cables were rubbing.
Same for the saddle bolt. It was almost impossible to tighten it.
But, all is well that ends well. Your build looks cool, I wish you many happy miles on it!
Edit - that seat post is ridiculously tall. Mine is pushed way below lowest marker. That's the only way I could make it work. Strange, I never had such issue on any bike.
-
I'm relieved I'm not the only one who had these problems. Just 8 hours for routing though? I spent probably 4 days lol. I probably routed and pulled out cables and routed again about 20 times and in the end couldn't get compressionless housing work. It was frustrating to say the least. I also filed all the edges of the stem and handlebar where ever the cables were rubbing.
Same for the saddle bolt. It was almost impossible to tighten it.
But, all is well that ends well. Your build looks cool, I wish you many happy miles on it!
Edit - that seat post is ridiculously tall. Mine is pushed way below lowest marker. That's the only way I could make it work. Strange, I never had such issue on any bike.
Haha yes you’re definitely not alone. That was 8 hours spread across multiple days after I had to give up several times, traumatic.
I also filed the sharp edges a bit, only after they had removed a lot of housing coating though.
I assume VB uses the same seat post for all frame sizes, so maybe it’s the right length for really large frames? Odd though.
Yours looks fantastic too, happy riding
-
Managed to put just about 400 miles on the build this past month thru snow, ice and just terrible weather all around. The bike held up well. I find the frame comfortable and yet reasonably stiff, as in the power transmission seems pretty efficient though, I am not a racer. My observation comes from comparison with Giant Revolt which feels rather sluggish.
Anyhoo, as last day of the year gift I put on ICAN aero 50mm wheels shod with Panaracer 32mm gk ss on the bike and it has made a big difference in the ride. Faster and lighter yet grippy where it counts. Also replaced funny looking bartape with old school black tape for cleaner looks.
Overall, quite happy so far.
-
Hi guys,
I started building my own bike for the first time.
Frame: Velobuild GF002
Group: Sensah Empire 11s
Brakes: ZRace BR-005 (mechanical disc brakes)
Wheels: Elite Wheels Edge
Tires: Conti GrandPrix 5000 S TR (tubeless)
Shift cables/brake cables and housing: Jagwire Pro
Currently I am in the process of routing the housing in the handlebars. But this is much more difficult than I thought. It is so complicated that I think I will not manage to lay the housing cause there ist not enough space. Attached I have a few photos of the current state. I managed to get the housings of the brake cables in the handlebar, but I don't see a chance to get the housings for the shift cables in there as well.
Does anyone of you have a tip?
It is the separate handlebar and stem from the GF002.
-
The routing on these bar/stems is pain in the arse. I spent so much time on it. In the end two things helped, lot of cursing and inserting shifter cables first and then brake cables. But that is still a LOT of work and frustration may ensue.
It was much later that I came across this simple trick and used on Fuji roadie to convert to semi icr - https://youtu.be/gt9cW70vFwM
-
Hello everyone,
This is my first post on this forum, after many hours of reading.
I'm currently the owner of a grey-white-red GF-002 in size L.
It is setup with the Sram Rival AXS group set including powermeter.
I also used my AR56 lightbicycle wheelset with the grey Vittora tires.
Before I also had a GF-002 in matte black with a mechanical Sram Apex1 group set which I sold a couple of months ago.
I love the bikes, but on both I had/have some problems with the headset.
On the first matte black one I've used the integrated aero bar that was delivered with the old C-ring.
After filing the knobs of the C-ring and the spacers I eventually got rid of the headset play, and it stayed away.
But now on my new grey-white-red one I placed the separate stem with an FSA ACR compact bar.
So that I have the opportunity to place aerobars.
This bike already came with the newer C-ring without knobs but I can't get rid of the headset play.
Every time when I tighten it again then after some rough roads the play is coming back.
When I tighten the topcap I will get the play out and then I tighten the bolts of the stem to 5.5 Nm.
I also used Carbon paste.
But when riding over a rougher sections of road every time the play comes back.
Any ideas?
Greetings from The Netherlands
-
Welcome, fellow GF002 owner! This is an issue that many have faced and tried to resolve in different ways with varying degrees of success. The C ring, spacers/headset and that aero cap from VB all add to the issue. For me, the top cap is glaring issue because it deform when you tighten the screw meaning the required torque to keep it tight is eaten by cap's flexy material. There is a thread dedicated to this issue and seems using FSA headset (no 55) solves the issue to some extent -
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3683.0.html
-
Hello everyone,
This is my first post on this forum, after many hours of reading.
I'm currently the owner of a grey-white-red GF-002 in size L.
It is setup with the Sram Rival AXS group set including powermeter.
I also used my AR56 lightbicycle wheelset with the grey Vittora tires.
Before I also had a GF-002 in matte black with a mechanical Sram Apex1 group set which I sold a couple of months ago.
I love the bikes, but on both I had/have some problems with the headset.
On the first matte black one I've used the integrated aero bar that was delivered with the old C-ring.
After filing the knobs of the C-ring and the spacers I eventually got rid of the headset play, and it stayed away.
But now on my new grey-white-red one I placed the separate stem with an FSA ACR compact bar.
So that I have the opportunity to place aerobars.
This bike already came with the newer C-ring without knobs but I can't get rid of the headset play.
Every time when I tighten it again then after some rough roads the play is coming back.
When I tighten the topcap I will get the play out and then I tighten the bolts of the stem to 5.5 Nm.
I also used Carbon paste.
But when riding over a rougher sections of road every time the play comes back.
Any ideas?
Greetings from The Netherlands
On my 177 a combination of cutting the steerer tube a little bit more to just the perfect height removed the play when used with the new C ring. I eventually switched to a Cane Creek top cap with a tiny spacer under it and never had an issue again.
I now use a different stem/bar combo (The One) with its own compression ring and top cap that also preloads perfectly and doesn't come loose. That's always an option.
You can also try the FSA compression ring or headset, there's cheaper copies on AliExpress. Maybe a different stem or top cap would also help, the top cap that is provided seems to have a lot to do with it.
-
Thanks for the tips and the link to the topic!
I've already ordered a longer expansion plug, maybe that helps.
And I think i'm going to modify a normal round spacer and try to fasten it with the normal round topcap that was provided by velobuild. Because I also think the play is caused by the original flexible top cap that deforms when I torque it.
Will post an update if the problem is solved!
-
Welcome, fellow GF002 owner! This is an issue that many have faced and tried to resolve in different ways with varying degrees of success. The C ring, spacers/headset and that aero cap from VB all add to the issue. For me, the top cap is glaring issue because it deform when you tighten the screw meaning the required torque to keep it tight is eaten by cap's flexy material. There is a thread dedicated to this issue and seems using FSA headset (no 55) solves the issue to some extent -
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3683.0.html
Agree and like I commented on the above mentioned post: the top cap of the Velobuild stem is a major issue.
-
My workaround for the top cap that doesn't seem to be able to maintain rigidity in order to tighten things up is to first remove all play without the top cap (using the hole in a pedal wrench) and then fastening the top cap gently after. Since the top cap doesn't need to compress things once the play has been removed and stem has been tightened that should work, and it does for a while until it becomes loose again like others have been experiencing, however I think that it related to something else and I am likely going to add some spacers or cut the steerer a bit to see if I can stop the loosening of the headset that way.
-
After this discussion started again, I loosened up the handlebar/stem from the fork steerer and lifted it up just so I can take a peek inside. I noticed that the spacers do hug steerer snuggly but just not tight enough. There is a very slight gap that exists.
I cut a piece of aluminum foil and inserted into the gap but that wasn't enough. Next - I cut up tin of canned fish into 3 long pieces to cover stacked height of the spacers and with great hassle and a cut on index finger managed to insert all three between spacers and steerer.
That seemed to stop the minute back and forth movement of spacers. Thankfully the spacers lock into each other so this extra pressure created by thin insert is still handled. Though only way I could do this was to assemble spacers first and then insert the metal strips. For good measure, I left around 1.5mm of the strips exposed and when all was done, bent that 1.5mm "lip" outwards to keep it sliding down the steerer into fork as it takes a beating on gravel.
Then, pushed down the handle/stem and tightened the top cap. I must say this is the tightest I have ever felt with virtually no internal movement. If it gets loose again, I will insert one more strip for good measure and take photos. But I doubt that will happen. Fingers crossed.
-
My build is progressing piece by piece.
As the first wheelset I will use the ENT Elite Wheels with Conti 5000 in 28mm.
What very cheap wheelset and what tires would you recommend for gravel?
What maximum tire width fits (700c) in the frame?
-
If you are okay with buying used, that would be the cheapest way to get a good wheelset. I wouldn't buy a new, cheapest wheelset instead I will look for a used one in the same price. The wheelset makes huge difference in the way bike rides. In the budget range, DT Swiss' OEM wheels are good. Many bikes comes with it pre-built and people upgrade them, so finding them used isn't terribly difficult or expensive. For e.g. DT Swiss C1850 Spline which is just OEM version of C1800 wheelset. I was able to snag one for $150 and its been great. Hunt 4Seasons X-Wide gravel wheelset has also served me well, but slightly expensive ($300~ used) and has gone out of tune a bit while the DT Swiss is still true. Suggest you to not get super heavy wheelset - it just sucks the fun out of a good bike.
-
My build is progressing piece by piece.
As the first wheelset I will use the ENT Elite Wheels with Conti 5000 in 28mm.
What very cheap wheelset and what tires would you recommend for gravel?
What maximum tire width fits (700c) in the frame?
This information was provided to me by Email from Chris: Tire clearance 700x45C or 27.5erx2.1
-
It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?
-
It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?
You will have a tough time internally routing Jagwire compressionless housing through the separate stem handlebar combo. I shared some of my experiences in this VB-R-099 thread
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34848.html#msg34848
The tight bending radius will also cause more cable friction for an all mechanical setup, which will likely impact performance of brakes or shifting.
You might consider a semi-internal setup, guiding the cables outside the bar and underneath the stem and then entering the internal routing through a modified headset cover (like FSA No. 69 or mechanical modification of the spacers).
-
It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?
I have the exact same setup and routing is a nightmare though I gave up on Jagwire in the end. Despite that, the shifting is exceedingly smooth. It is Ultegra R6800 and when I compare it with my Fuji with external cabling and 105 R7000, Ultegra has faster, smoother shifts.
May be it its there but I can't find a video explaining the whole process. Here is what I did though:
1. Keep cables as long as you can. Finish ICR thru handle and stem and tighten the stem bolts..
2. Insert fork in the frame and with help of Velcro straps, tighten it to frame so it does no slide down.
3. Insert C ring. Insert dust cap without fail.
4. Take someone's help or if you can manage on your own - hold the handle/stem above fork steerer and start passing all the cables thru C ring into the frame and fork.
5. Front brake is easy. For rear portion, it is trial and error, fiddling and cursing for hours until all the cables have passed through respective outlets. There is no other way at least I don't know.
6. Front derailleur cable routing is tricky. You can route the cable above BB spindle or below. There is enough space in the frame to route it above the spindle but I found out going under the spindle is easier to bend the cable.
7. Once all cables have passed thru, assemble spacers and tighten stem to steerer.
8. If the bends in cable outer were reasonably fine, you should have no problem inserting cable inners.
9. Again, trial and error on shifting and braking action.
It is important to have proper cable ends inserted on shifter side. Without those you will have hard time inserting cable inners. Once you have successfully passed the inners, have one more set of cable ends handy for the other end.
-
Thanks! I'm using a Wheels Manufacturing internally threaded pressfit BB. Haven't thought much about the logic of the statement above in truth, just passed on what VB mentioned. May switch out the BB instead of replacing the bearings and can report back if it makes a difference.
Hi
Did you solve the issue with 34/50 crankset rubbing?
-
Hi
Did you solve the issue with 34/50 crankset rubbing?
Yes, I added 3 or 4 plastic BB spacers on the drive side and that did the trick. Initially I added one less because the small ring wasn't rubbing but didn't take into account flex when under load so remember to add an extra one if possible.
-
Yes, I added 3 or 4 plastic BB spacers on the drive side and that did the trick. Initially I added one less because the small ring wasn't rubbing but didn't take into account flex when under load so remember to add an extra one if possible.
Cool, thanks.
Is the chain line still ok after adding all the spacers?
-
Cool, thanks.
Is the chain line still ok after adding all the spacers?
Yup seems to be
-
Question to all GF-002 owners, regarding the headset (once again):
Using the compression ring and headtube cover that came with my frame leaves a significant gap between the headtube and the headtube cover (2.4 to 2.6mm),
The compression ring seems to be the "updated" version that is supposed to improve headset play with some of the road frame models.
Not sure about the headtube cover version, though, it has holes to align with the compression plug (while the updated version does not have pins).
Can anybody comment about gap between headtube and cover and about that hardware that came with your frame?
Nothing against Velobuild, but the headset topic is so annoying and the constant change of design and hardware makes it a total mess...
-
The gap seems okay.
-
The gap seems okay.
Per Velobuild, Chris: The gap should be around 1mm
So clearly 2.5mm is too large of a gap. But than the conversation with Chris dropped, no more feedback from them - back at "customer service" when ordering B2C from China...
-
Whatever Chris says, the cover should ideally seat flush with the headtube.
And packed with grease.
Some cover models even have an integrated rubber sleeve.
Otherwise you're left with an open door for rain or cleaning water, that will kill prematurely the headset bearings.
Aren't there two bearings heights for 1.5".
It is not the first time such kind of picture pops up in the forum
-
Yeah, that gap is way too big. Will ruin the bearings in no time.
-
Whatever Chris says, the cover should ideally seat flush with the headtube.
And packed with grease.
Some cover models even have an integrated rubber sleeve.
Otherwise you're left with an open door for rain or cleaning water, that will kill prematurely the headset bearings.
Aren't there two bearings heights for 1.5".
It is not the first time such kind of picture pops up in the forum
Velobuild supplied two identical bearings, both 7mm height. So no risk to swap them, like on Carbonda (6.5mm vs. 7mm)...
The top bearing is properly mounted, confirmed twice and also by measuring the individual dimensions.
As usual, this leaves the Velobuild customer with figuring out the headset adjustment on his own...
-
Actually, the dust cap cannot sit flush with the head tube because it rotates with the handlebar. So every time you turn your handle it is going to grind against the tube, however smooth or light it is and pretty soon it will eat through the paint and start touching carbon. The gap has to be there, how much you are comfortable with is the question. You can take it to a bike shop and ask for advice, also look at brand name bikes which have ICR and similar dust cap situation. There is a slight gap that remains.
I had about 2mm of gap in exact same spot and no matter what I couldn't get rid of it. I see that you have not assembled the stem/spacer/handle yet. Suggest you to tighten the full assembly as if you are readying the bike to ride and then check the gap again. This was suggested to me by someone. I did that and still had a gap that looked ungainly. After back and forth emails with Chris the matter led to nowhere because that gap seemed okay to him... may be it is okay, who knows? It certainly looked too big to me so I started seeking help here and some other forums. All my "hacks" for this are written here in the past few pages.
Long story short, as per suggestion from a member here I took my bike to someone who has a vertical press type grinder (I don't know what it is called) and after some brainstorming, decided to shave off 0.8mm of material from underneath the dust cap. Not the whole bottom of the dust cap but just the part that rests on C-ring so basically keep the flange of the dust cap intact but remove some material within the flange. The other option was to find dust cap and C-ring combo that is slightly shorter in height, which I was not. It could be there but I wasn't able to find that would be a perfect fit for this frame. That is a problem with Chiner frames because you searching with frame model yields zero results on eBay, Amazon, AliEx or the likes.
I have circled the area in your picture that we grinded from the dust cap. I was advised here to not use any home made remedy, namely Dremel or angle grinder because it is near impossible to shave off material in that spot in perfectly flat manner. Its rather tricky.
You are right about the customer support. If it gets tricky like this, you are on your own. They just stop replying. There was no answer to play in the handlebar (while rocking the bike back and forth) but that is whole another chapter.
To summarize, tighten things to 100% and observe the gap, if its still too much look into dust cap modification OR you can find a dust cap/C-ring that are not as tall as what VB supplies. Its been a while, may be there is some headset that is better than VB's.
-
Actually, the dust cap cannot sit flush with the head tube because it rotates with the handlebar. So every time you turn your handle it is going to grind against the tube...
Until the 1.5" tops were common, the cover was generally flush or grinding as you say.
And there was 0.25mm shims coming with the headset to put some space if needed.
Enough to not touch but not too much to expose the bearings.
-
I am considering purchasing this frame however I'm not liking the issues I have seen people have with both the integrated and separate bars Velobuild provides. I've seen too many reports of excessive flex.
I dont really want to go for a seperate stem, integrated just looks too good and is worth the hassle in my book. :D
Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative fully integrated bar?
Thanks!
EDIT: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004650603001.html?
Seems like a decent option from a known brand. Their CS-1300 Spacers look to be compatible with the frame too.
-
Finally think I resolved the loose headset issue on my GF-002 with separate bar/stem using the new C ring. Wrote the update on the dedicated thread here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3683.msg45151.html#msg45151
-
Actually, the dust cap cannot sit flush with the head tube because it rotates with the handlebar. So every time you turn your handle it is going to grind against the tube, however smooth or light it is and pretty soon it will eat through the paint and start touching carbon. The gap has to be there, how much you are comfortable with is the question. You can take it to a bike shop and ask for advice, also look at brand name bikes which have ICR and similar dust cap situation. There is a slight gap that remains.
I had about 2mm of gap in exact same spot and no matter what I couldn't get rid of it. I see that you have not assembled the stem/spacer/handle yet. Suggest you to tighten the full assembly as if you are readying the bike to ride and then check the gap again. This was suggested to me by someone. I did that and still had a gap that looked ungainly. After back and forth emails with Chris the matter led to nowhere because that gap seemed okay to him... may be it is okay, who knows? It certainly looked too big to me so I started seeking help here and some other forums. All my "hacks" for this are written here in the past few pages.
Long story short, as per suggestion from a member here I took my bike to someone who has a vertical press type grinder (I don't know what it is called) and after some brainstorming, decided to shave off 0.8mm of material from underneath the dust cap. Not the whole bottom of the dust cap but just the part that rests on C-ring so basically keep the flange of the dust cap intact but remove some material within the flange. The other option was to find dust cap and C-ring combo that is slightly shorter in height, which I was not. It could be there but I wasn't able to find that would be a perfect fit for this frame. That is a problem with Chiner frames because you searching with frame model yields zero results on eBay, Amazon, AliEx or the likes.
I have circled the area in your picture that we grinded from the dust cap. I was advised here to not use any home made remedy, namely Dremel or angle grinder because it is near impossible to shave off material in that spot in perfectly flat manner. Its rather tricky.
You are right about the customer support. If it gets tricky like this, you are on your own. They just stop replying. There was no answer to play in the handlebar (while rocking the bike back and forth) but that is whole another chapter.
To summarize, tighten things to 100% and observe the gap, if its still too much look into dust cap modification OR you can find a dust cap/C-ring that are not as tall as what VB supplies. Its been a while, may be there is some headset that is better than VB's.
Good input, appreciate it - thanks to everybody. Current status: it is hard to cut the fork to length when the tolerances are not finally sorted.
I opted for a Vision / FSA SMR stem since I do not trust the VeloBuild stem & top cap design when it comes to removing play of the headset.
Bought this spacer set from AliExpress:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003797505110.html
created a wooden jig to have a plain offset, used my routing machine to take off material from the top, leaving pins to interface to the FSA spacers.
Filled the bottom with epoxy and removed material, again, so the compression ring recesses into the cover.
Will now cut the fork to length and keep you updated...
-
Curious if anybody has built up a GF002 with fully internal routing and integrated handelbar while using mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes?
Meaning four cables fully internally routed. Is it possible with good braking results, compared to rim brake?
(I don't mind spending a little extra cash for suitable wires/hoses or more time while building)
Thank you
-
Curious if anybody has built up a GF002 with fully internal routing and integrated handelbar while using mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes?
Meaning four cables fully internally routed. Is it possible with good braking results, compared to rim brake?
I did this. Mechanical Ultegra R8000/6800 and mechanical disc brake (Onirii BR005). It took me a while to figure out rotor and pad combo for optimal performance but now it's really good. I can lock the wheels in emergency. The levers aren't as snappy as with an external routed rim brake bike but it is good enough considering crazy bends in the bar and stem. I have VB's separate stem and bar. So far so good.
-
Curious if anybody has built up a GF002 with fully internal routing and integrated handelbar while using mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes?
Meaning four cables fully internally routed. Is it possible with good braking results, compared to rim brake?
(I don't mind spending a little extra cash for suitable wires/hoses or more time while building)
Thank you
I originally built up my 177 this way with the same handlebar, Juin Techs and Sensah Empire. 10/10 don't recommend mechanical disc brakes with fully internal routing, but YMMV. Yes, you can get it to "good enough", which is totally dependent on your style of riding, but that still isn't like full hydro or even good rim brakes and I was never quite comfortable enough on downhills and tight turns at speed. One scare/mild accident was more than enough for me to decide hydraulic braking is the way for discs.
Another bit I can share is I had a lot of difficulty running 4 housings through the bars, I can only imagine how much more difficult it would be with compressionless housing.
I also did the math, when I stopped to think about the cost of something like Sensah shifters, Juin Tech calipers, rotors, fancy housing, high quality brake cables, tons of troubleshooting, etc....just a bit more money would have gotten me a good pair of hydraulic SRAM or Shimano shifters/brakes that are mostly plug and play. ::) ::) Bleeding is not hard at all. Also considering the steadily dropping cost of LTwoo stuff, I'm not so sure there's much upside to cable disc brakes on fully internal/performance/aero bikes anymore.
-
Depends a lot on the frame, especially on the rear triangle. GF002 doesn't have extreme angle towards the brake caliper once cable exits the port. There's a slight curve but that's it.
-
Depends a lot on the frame, especially on the rear triangle. GF002 doesn't have extreme angle towards the brake caliper once cable exits the port. There's a slight curve but that's it.
I'd argue the many tight bends and potential forcing of the brake housings through the handlebars and then the headtube has a much more adverse effect on braking performance than the brake cable exit for a fully internal frame
-
I originally built up my 177 this way with the same handlebar, Juin Techs and Sensah Empire. 10/10 don't recommend mechanical disc brakes with fully internal routing, but YMMV. Yes, you can get it to "good enough", which is totally dependent on your style of riding, but that still isn't like full hydro or even good rim brakes and I was never quite comfortable enough on downhills and tight turns at speed. One scare/mild accident was more than enough for me to decide hydraulic braking is the way for discs.
Another bit I can share is I had a lot of difficulty running 4 housings through the bars, I can only imagine how much more difficult it would be with compressionless housing.
I also did the math, when I stopped to think about the cost of something like Sensah shifters, Juin Tech calipers, rotors, fancy housing, high quality brake cables, tons of troubleshooting, etc....just a bit more money would have gotten me a good pair of hydraulic SRAM or Shimano shifters/brakes that are mostly plug and play. ::) ::) Bleeding is not hard at all. Also considering the steadily dropping cost of LTwoo stuff, I'm not so sure there's much upside to cable disc brakes on fully internal/performance/aero bikes anymore.
Thank you greatly for your comment and insights.
I already have a complete Shimano 105 R7000 groupset, upgrading it to hydraulic with new 105 shifters and calipers would cost me around 450€, while a set of Juin Tech F1 with rotors would only cost me 160€. Quite the difference in price. However the braking performance should of course not be neglected. I live in a area which is very flat and my performance/speeds are quite average so i'm guessing that mechanical disc brakes might be "good enough", most likely better or similiar to current Shimano R7000 105 rim brakes.
I don't mind the hassle/complexity of building and servicing as I really love the looks of integrated handelbars and fully internal routed cables but need to decide if it's worth it regarding braking performance.
-
Confirmed that the two small parts are cable stops/guides for front derailleur. But I wasn't able to utilize them and received this answer "You can use either one" from Chris for my detailed questions and back and forth over the email. None of those nozzles fit tightly into the hole for cable.
Decided not to use those and hack something else to fit. From the local hardware store I bought 3 parts.
1. A rubber grommet.
2. A small flanged spacer
3. A slightly bigger flanged spacer than above.
The spacers are sized such that the smaller one inserts into bigger one and since both of them are flanged, my idea was to sandwich frame material between the two.
It worked perfectly.
Basically the larger spacer went into the hole from inside the frame with little circus and then I inserted the smaller one along with the rubber grommer into the bigger one which was now sticking out from the frame.
This created a nice tight guide for the cable and also closed any gap around the spacers.
Hi, would you mind posting a couple of pictures? I'm unsure what you did, but I have the same problem, and Chris has replied something cryptic when I asked him. Thanks!
-
Hi all - We just posted an updated regarding a newly designed c ring here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4183.msg46386.html#msg46386
Please check it out!
-
Wanted to share my Velobuild GF-002 build and experiences with the community.
Ordered the frameset in winter, during cross season as you can tell, asked for a custom paintjob on the fork.
As noted in quite a few comments, the paint job is okay but not spectacular. In fact I pointed out many times to Chris, that I want the fork to appear red from the front – with the result being a clearly visible yellow-red when looking at the bike from the front. Considering the 50US$ for the paintjob, this is okay – but it just is not a perfect result that I originally was looking for.
Frameset was missing some hardware, after discussing with Chris they sent the hardware but without instruction – so I am not clear what the hardware is for. Since my final setup is 1 x electrical I did not have to bother, but this is inline with the entire Velobuild experience (I already own a VB-R-099).
Frameset was shipped with the v2 compression C ring and like I commented here https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3499.msg44919.html#msg44919 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3499.msg44919.html#msg44919), this left me with a huge gap between top cap and steerer tube. No comment from Chris or Velobuild and since I already lost confidence in the Velobuild stem (opted for the separate stem and bar due to flexibility for bar flare) I went for my own construction as described here https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3499.msg45210.html#msg45210 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3499.msg45210.html#msg45210): Bought a FSA SMR stem and an AliExpress spacer set and with some tools and jigs created an adapter from C ring v2 to the FSA spacer set. Cut the fork to length, assembly and integrated Di2, hydraulic cable routing worked without an issue. No headset play since then.
Not many rides, yet, but I am very positive, so far: The 130mm stem gives me a sporty geometry, but not too aggressive. Drop from saddle to bar is good enough for endurance rides without being too relaxed. Agile steering behavior without being nervous, very stiff bottom bracket area but the long seatpost (1.95m height, 96cm inseam, 90kg) and the 45mm tires just create enough compliance.
Overall a frame I can recommend since I believe it can be tuned quite a lot with different stem options. My Velobuild verdict also remains the same: nice frames at a very good price point, just do not expect perfection in support and be prepared and skilled enough for assembly and fixing issues. Having users figuring out the compression C ring version, multiple tolerances on various frames and the separate stem design is annoying – even if there’s progress I can not consider this a fix that works for the mass market out there.
- Velobuild GF-002 size XL
- DT Swiss G 1800 spline 650b DB 25 wheels, Ratchet LN freehub
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H 45-584, Butyl tubes
- FSA SMR stem 130mm
- Zipp Service Course SL-70 XPLR bar 420mm
- Velobuild seatpost
- Selle Italia SLR team edition flow Ti-rail
- Shimano ST-R785 Di2, hydraulic brifters
- Shimano GRX RD-RX815 rear derailleur
- SRAM Rival PG-1130 11-36, 11-speed cassette
- Easton EC90SL crank 175mm, Garbaruk 42T chainring
- ZTTO BB386 PF30 ceramic bearing bottom bracket
- Shimano PD-ES600 SPD pedal
- KMC X11SL chain
- ZRACE XG flat mount disc brake
- Shimano SM-RT64 brake disc 160mm
-
Do people recommend getting their integrated bar and stem or get the two piece or none of the above ?
-
Do people recommend getting their integrated bar and stem or get the two piece or none of the above ?
It is my belief that handlebars are useful on a bike. I got bar and stem combo from them, with flared handlebars. I regret getting flared bars. On sketchy descents I'm braking, I don't care about the extra leverage of the drops. But on the road the flared drops feel painfully slow. Other than that the combo works great. I'm no sprinter but I'm over 80kg and everything feels stiff. I've had other carbon bars on other bikes, and alu ones, I can't tell the difference. So I'd say they're perfectly adequate.
-
Hey Everyone,
I'm new to this forum, currently working on a built of the Velobuild GF-002.
I'm having extrem issues routing the Di2 cable (EW-SD50) through the right chainstay. The plug off the cable just doesn't fit through the narrowest part. A shifting housing can be pushed through with force. I've tried all the special tools for routing, but the plug just won't fit.
Anybody has experienced similar issues with the GF-002?
Additionally, my frame came without the two "doors" in the down tube. Under the bottom bracket and next to head tube. Chris said they have been doing this since two years, but all the pictures I see of Gf-002 builts have those.
Anybody also received a frame without the doors? I'm wondering if this particular frame I received is just a lemon.
Thanks, appreciate any help.
-
Additionally, my frame came without the two "doors" in the down tube. Under the bottom bracket and next to head tube. Chris said they have been doing this since two years, but all the pictures I see of Gf-002 builts have those.
Anybody also received a frame without the doors? I'm wondering if this particular frame I received is just a lemon.
Thanks, appreciate any help.
Welcome to the forum. I have this frame. Is there a rubber grommet in the chain stay where cable exits? Mine has one. Try removing that.
I'm trying to picture the doors you mention. What would they be needed for? My GF002 did not come with any doors in those areas.
-
No rubber grommet, the bottleneck is rather in the middle of the chainstay at the narrowest part. Its a hard stop, like carbon or metall, but not rubber.
As for the doors, I think they'd be used for access to the tubes for cable routing etc. Not a deal breaker, but was wondering why there are two versions of the GF-002. On the shop website they are displayed on all the pictures.
-
I see now what you mean. In case you haven't, try routing it with the frame upside down.
-
I ended up inspecting the frame with an endoscope and I could clearly see the bottleneck and where the EW-SD50 plug was stuck. Impossible to get through there.
Ended up cutting the cable, pulling it through and then soldering it together. Not the most elegant solution, but it works (for now).
-
Hey Everyone,
I'm new to this forum, currently working on a built of the Velobuild GF-002.
I'm having extrem issues routing the Di2 cable (EW-SD50) through the right chainstay. The plug off the cable just doesn't fit through the narrowest part. A shifting housing can be pushed through with force. I've tried all the special tools for routing, but the plug just won't fit.
Anybody has experienced similar issues with the GF-002?
Additionally, my frame came without the two "doors" in the down tube. Under the bottom bracket and next to head tube. Chris said they have been doing this since two years, but all the pictures I see of Gf-002 builts have those.
Anybody also received a frame without the doors? I'm wondering if this particular frame I received is just a lemon.
Thanks, appreciate any help.
me too, no doors, I was informed by Chris after placing the order.......I wish to use the one next to the head tube for the rear brake compressionless cable housing...end up fitting hydro disk brake instead of mec/hydro.
-
Yes, I added 3 or 4 plastic BB spacers on the drive side and that did the trick. Initially I added one less because the small ring wasn't rubbing but didn't take into account flex when under load so remember to add an extra one if possible.
@hazzer19 and others: would you expect spacers also being needed for a 46/30 chainring combo on this frame? Interestingly, velobuild said that this setup would need a longer front derailleur (?)
-
@hazzer19 and others: would you expect spacers also being needed for a 46/30 chainring combo on this frame? Interestingly, velobuild said that this setup would need a longer front derailleur (?)
Yes, with 46/30 you'll need a longer front derallieur hanger otherwise you'll not be able to set the derallieur correctly. I just realized this 2 days ago when I placed my 46/30 cranckset....Chris is sending me the longer derallieur hanger, waiting for it.
-
Yes, with 46/30 you'll need a longer front derallieur hanger otherwise you'll not be able to set the derallieur correctly. I just realized this 2 days ago when I placed my 46/30 cranckset....Chris is sending me the longer derallieur hanger, waiting for it.
This forum is unbelievable! Thank you, I'll ask for the same.
Btw I find it interesting that although this is the exact same frame design as Carbonda696, Spcycle SP-G20, Ican X-Gravel, only velobuild so far has told me that there could be a problem with the FD.
-
@hazzer19 and others: would you expect spacers also being needed for a 46/30 chainring combo on this frame? Interestingly, velobuild said that this setup would need a longer front derailleur (?)
I ended up having to use BB spacers on the drive side for mine. Found out the hard way and chewed up a bit of the BB area with the chain ring before spacers were installed. Ran 2x for a long time with the spacers and no issues, eventually and eneded up going 1x and love it so far.
-
@hazzer19 and others: would you expect spacers also being needed for a 46/30 chainring combo on this frame? Interestingly, velobuild said that this setup would need a longer front derailleur (?)
I know this response is not directly answering the question but thought I'd add it in case its useful to someone..
I used 48-33 and it works at the bottom limit of the standard derailleur hanger.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005163379110.html
-
Do I read this correct, that I'd need many more BB spacers for the Riro crankset?
Or are spacers in any way going to be needed, as @hazzer19 described? Setup is still going to be a 30-46t chainring combo with a dub bb.
Learning more every day ;D
-
From memory, I may have used a few 3d printed shims on the drive side on the GF002. Barely any thickness, so that 34 inner ring doesnt eat the chain stay. Not all cranks are the same btw, so mileage will vary.
-
Did anyone mesure the frame triangle inner dimensions in size 56?
Planning on getting a full frame bikepacking bag, either off the rack or custom.
My frame will hopefully be on the way soon!
-
Did anyone mesure the frame triangle inner dimensions in size 56?
Planning on getting a full frame bikepacking bag, either off the rack or custom.
My frame will hopefully be on the way soon!
Seeing this now. I have size 56 frame, if you are still waiting for these dimensions I will let you know by tonight!
-
Seeing this now. I have size 56 frame, if you are still waiting for these dimensions I will let you know by tonight!
Thanks coffeebreak! I received in the meantime:
For future reference, in size 56:
1. The inner top tube length measures around 48-50cm (it’s bent at the head tube)
2. The inner seat tube length is about 44cm
3. The inner down tube is around 58cm
-
Just realized i never posted pics of the 2 GF002 i built. The orange is mine. I ghetto painted it myself.
Farsports wheels, hookless (so my fat ass can hit rocks tubeless without worrying about breaking the rim)
Conti Terra Speed 40C tubeless w sealant - nice, but wears out fast.
Sensah 2x11 mech. Horrendous FD. Wouldn't recommend Sensah, i built 4 bikes w Sensah 2x11 mech, had a RD die for no reason, and Sensah told me to eat a *ick. And the FD is trash.
Jagwire keb-sl brake housing.
I do not love the brakes now that i have ltwoo er9 hydraulic on my road bike. in fact i will not build another non hydraulic bike for myself (i'm 80-85kg though).
All frames are Medium.
I had a lot of fun with the bike last year, put 3.2k km on it, as well as quite a few hours on the trainer. This year it's in fact been by home trainer bike, and it's developed a bunch of creaks i need to diagnose (almost certainly my fault / sweat).
The road one is the VB 168 with gangster deep wheels (Farsports too). I find it helpful to see them by side to realize how different the geometry is.
It was my 1st gravel bike. I quickly then bought another road bike, because this absolutely does not feel like a do it all road bike. The geometry just doesn't work for me on the road (too high, too slack, doesnt feel good going down hairpins). The vast, vast, vast, vast majority of my riding is road. I kind of wish i had more occasions to ride gravel, because i did enjoy it. But i find myself going for the road bike all the time.
My buddy with the black one is a runner so he bought it mostly because he's a lawyer and wanted a pretty bike / FOMO. He's happy with it though, the bike is a head turner. He uses it as a road bike.