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Messages - PLA

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16
E-Bike Frames & Builds / Re: Cut the fork
« on: April 17, 2024, 03:51:33 PM »
Guilty :)
I stand on the shoulders of giants, nurtured by a culture of patisseries, adultery and weapons manufacturing.
And I complain. A lot. For example I thought my er9 was a piece of shit when it stopped working yesterday. Turns out I just didn't charge it. I blame al Qaeda.

LOL

18
Conti, pirelli, vittoria, challenge...

19
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R1088-D Aero Road
« on: April 11, 2024, 12:47:43 PM »
You lost me. tf, is that thread fit? in the video i call his BB a PF BB because the BB isn't hold by threads like BSA / T47: the interface between the BB & the frame is smooth --> i call that PF. There is a thread between 2 halves of the PF cups, but that thread doesn't make it a threaded BB the way BSA / T47 is.
I received the Liqui Moly 3312 today, precisely so i dont have to figure out which loctite product to use and during which phase of the moon it's going to work best and whether it cured with or without a load.
Now I'm just a peasant looking for easy solutions found by people who seem to know what they're talking about.
I've never measured BB holes because i dont have the tools to make them rounder anyway, touch wood, i hope i never have to.

My bad mate!!! Didn't watch it properly!

It's a pf, but it's a thread together pf. They're a little bit obscure and are kinda inferior in theory to a single piece bb, usually only used if the bb area is weirdly shaped or obstructed that you physically can't press a single piece bb in. Are you sure you have one of those?

For this type, can grease the threads, just make sure you don't get any of the surrounding carbon where the bb will seat inside the frame. Retaining compound on the usual parts where a regular pf bb seats inside carbon area.

For retaining compound you can use 641 compound and 7649 activator. If you can literally push any side in with your hand then the hole is oversized, so use 638 instead. It should be a tight interference fit, and not be able to push it in by hand.

20
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R1088-D Aero Road
« on: April 11, 2024, 08:19:56 AM »
https://youtu.be/q0XAvr5Qn1k?si=RBwsH1-CgnlypdXm&t=352

I do, it's the whole point of the rabbit hole. i guess you're in the camp of only morons would put any kind of grease there?

Sorry mate you said PF BBs in the post, I guess just a typo... That's a tf in the vid. I'm sure you already know this, but there is an alu insert which is pressfit and bonded into the carbon hole in the frame, which has threads on the inside, which the bb threads into. Yeah I'd use an nlgi00-2 grease or anti-seize for threaded bbs that tighten under load. I think anti-seize might make more sense here. Ones that don't tighten under load, I'd use threadlock, but that's hardly any these days.

Although, if it's a pf, like what you said, then retaining compound between the carbon and bb. Usually 641.

If yours creaks and is a pf and not tf, then you may wanna push it out and measure it up. If the hole is too small, you can hone it safely (takes about 30min to remove 0.01mm, so it's hard to overshoot it), if hole too big you can use 638 instead of 641 for retaining compound, as it'll fill a much bigger gap more betterererer.

Sometimes creaks can come from other stuff though, like chainring bolts being uncooperative, or just grit stuck between the crank arms.

21
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R1088-D Aero Road
« on: April 10, 2024, 09:55:44 AM »
It's more contentious for PF BBs, but it seems that Wakos brake protector is the ultimate product to use, as per "ride of Japan" on YT, and apparently Cannondale in mechanics workshops (I think Australia), and cannondale basically invented creaking BBs with the PF BB30. And for us in Europe, Liqui Moly 3312 (made in Germany, cheap) seems to be a legit alternative. I haven't seen anyone saying it doesnt work. Both products apparently are a silicone based grease.
But people do fight over whether loctite is good or not (& if so, which, and which cure time, and how...), and if you believe Shimano you shouldn't use anything at all, and then there are those who put regular bike grease, or lithium grease, or copper grease.

You don't mean grease between the bb and the carbon hole in the frame do you?

22
they got a large OEM order in 58, right?

After talking with Yishun when they delivered one of my frames, my understanding is that they do everything in batches of frames and sizes. The oem and individual orders all get put into the same batch then divided up one all are complete and the biggest orders get priority over smaller ones in terms of overall turnaround. Then they go off to paint. So if you order a frame that's not in stock and needs painting and you're an individual order, you get to be at the back of 2 queues. Like me because I got one of the yishun frames painted.

I'm sure there is more to it.

23
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Yishun R1088-D Aero Road
« on: April 09, 2024, 02:30:37 PM »
Oh, alright thanks! Another question - is it good to grease the bearing in the picture above also from the bottom/inner side?

Some people will say yes to give the bearing a little extra protection, other people will say no because grease can and will attack the epoxy in the carbon softening it over time.


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If I could do it again I would have gotten both 55s , front and rear

Howcome?

26
It's great to see that support was nice at least :)

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those too though geometry seems a tad too aggressive. Now just wondering if I should pair it with 45mm or 50mm wheels ahahah

If it's too aggressive, you can look into a yishun r068d, which is what I ended up doing for a build. It's a good frame.

27
Nice build, thanks for posting!
Other than the paint, anything to report on? Holes that aren't round, tolerances that are off, brake mount surfaces that aren't flat, inside of the frame that looks crap, any of that at all?
Very helpful video btw. How boxy is that downtube in real life? depending on the video, it can look like the least aero shape one could come up with, but other times, it's not even noticeable.

Not this frame, but for a yishun build I recently did:

The the front caliper mounts were ever so slightly off. Doesn't help that I'm yet to get a set of shimano rotors that aren't warped out of the box.
The rear caliper mounts didn't look super clean but were actually perfectly aligned.
The bb was slightly undersized 0.02mm, which doesn't sound like a big deal until I realised it takes about 30min to remove 0.01mm, so yeah multiply that by 4 and it's a pita. Might not have mattered if I didn't used a shitter bb that didn't require such a precise fit.
BB mating surface was faced under the paint, which is fine under their matte black finish, but I reckon would present gaps if it had paint and clear coat over the top.

28
A couple of hiccups but Wendy from LC was able to remedy the issues.

Looks awesome man, love that purple.

29
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Tavelo Aero Frame
« on: April 06, 2024, 12:20:35 AM »
Some locals here in Japan shared the weight of the frame and it looks NAISU
Standard 810gr
Super Light 710gr
not sure for which size, but I have to say t looks very decent....

Hopefully the prices will remain decent as well.
A bad exampe could be Winspace with it's Agile frame, it is already too close to western brands and I can purchase 2nd hand SL7 (non S-works) frames cheaper in JPN.
Like the Agile frame direct from Winspace ends up to be 300.000JPY, while a used SL7 frame is ~250.000JPY. With that pricing it is rather pointless to opt for direct China frames.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php/?story_fbid=1146515660020662&id=100039867169403

Exactly. Get a way better frame cheaper is a no brainer.

30
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Tavelo Aero Frame
« on: April 05, 2024, 01:12:28 AM »
I'm not a specialized fanboy, but you would be crazy to spend more to get a winspace than an sl7. Just for further resale value alone.
China learns. China started manufacturing, poorly then well, started by copying, then started inventing and more and more is now innovating. Winspace is an example of China starting to brand. Branding doesn't make a product better per se, but it does make it more expensive. Which is why this forum is largely about buying OEM frames from factories or brokers like velobuild who are basically a distribution channel for OEM frames.
Farsports is another example of China starting to brand. Their handlebars winning the Olympics was a key moment for them. They make great wheels but their pricing has gotten less and less appealing as they grow as a brand.

799usd shipped for a set of modern width carbon rims laced with sapim spokes to dt350 hubs is petty damn appealing to me. Farsports is great. Their branded stuff can essentially be ignored. I think it was a failed experiment.

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